@@dudndadn12212 not really the box is not even made for the woofers . in this case its not the box that makes it but that he got 4 12s for such a low price . 4 12s have about the same piston area as 2 18s that a lot of moving air even though they do not have some massive spl like excursion .
If you think this is just for fun, take a look at how many views he has, It's All About the Benjamins lol!! This man is getting rich off of you, just from you watching .
So as you know, going to a lower ohm load, your THD raises. So I would try a higher frequency. Also, if your just going for SPL, open your LP filter all the way or run the amp in full range. Also, put a oscilloscope on your head unit on the frequency your running to see where it clips at so you know not to run the volume past that. Distortion will give you a lower SPL reading.
Williston Audio Labs im so doing this i will spend $100 or less on 2 subs & i bought a used Pioneer 800watts RMS 1ohm stable Pioneer MONO block & i got a OLD bandpass box 4th order bandpass is custom made so ill measure it for tunning and replace the missing plexiglass with 3/16ths i hope! Might need 1/4 im unsure
Ghost Unspeakable id say the pyle / BOSS/ lanzar/ ssl/blaupunk/ DUAL/ planet audio/insert direct from china sub are all built a tad bit better than those old paper cones id say those titans are simply midrange subs with a subwoofer surround imo!
more power consumption due to clipping? clipping by definition means your out of power. So no soup boi not at all. Once a systems max output is reached just to gain an extra 3dB requires twice the power. Still hasnt explained the lose but heat and inefficiency would. An efficiant amp turns 100% of the power in to power output. Impossible. Cheap amps ran at around 80-90% efficiency. The higher wattage just translates into heat clipping and disstorion in the output signal. The magical at 1%distortion rating is used for a reason. Every amp is capable of exceeding power output above it but the output degrades rapidly.
Man I love this channel. Crazy how much money I wasted in the early 90's buying junk before saving up to buy a Fosgate Power 300 and Punch subs. It was worth its weight in gold but also cost about it's weight in gold back in the day. Keep up the good work!
@Shane DriftKing M3 Turner yeah... 144 is not that loud. I consider something to be "loud" when it reaches the 150 mark. 150db is a respectable number and 160+ is when you know someone's system is serious
@@djshedd77 144 is very loud compared to 99% of the nutsacks out there that think they are loud. Though they have systems that do Mid/High 130's with the factory door speakers playing with 10% distortion. Side note I do agree that LOUD starts with a "hair trick". Real close to 150db
Nice test! I was predicting around the 140db range and you nailed it :) I bet if you played with the port sizes some you might find a better tuning to squeeze out another db or 2...or build a beastly 4th/6th order for even more...Cheers!
Less db probably a result of mismatched refresh intervals in the equipment. If the AMM1 is refreshing every 100ms but the dbMeter is refreshing ever 500ms you get weird results.
@@johnhornbeak5735 They're talking about the how often the test equipment measures, not anything to do with the amplifier. Basically the refresh on the sound meter was slower than the refresh on the power meter. That is why it only showed 137db on 900 watts, if Big D would have let it play a second longer the meter would have probably read higher DB.
WAY BACK, 1983, built cabs for a pair of 12's from an old console stereo and the 2x8" horns that went with them. old school under dash equalizer+amp feeding about 16w/ch, loudest little Mazda GLC ya ever seen, lmao!
@@modelnutty6503 I remember using two pyramid 10's and a scrap little sparkomatic power booster to make a pretty nice system. Used to piss people off when they would search my car for a hidden amp and all they could find was that crazy little booster. Lol
Wired at 1ohm, set the volume on high, pause the track, power the amp up, and then just burp it. If you actually get that 950w for 1/2 second of full output, you should be good. Back in the day guys used to run their A/C on high forever to get the amps cold too. I think that was mostly superstition, but a bag of ice would be fun to try. All you need is that 1/2 second...
I tried this and it didn't work. I think the amp goes into protect before the meter measures. I'm going to get a TermLab to try as I've been putting off getting one for a long time now....and it's time to step up my game
The problem with that is when you wire below stable load, the protection circuitry goes into effect when the rail capacity exceeds a certain limit. This is why “burp guys” typically do a “slow roll up” so that the ohm load can safely increase to a limit the amplifier will allow
Yeah and you're right people sitting there running your AC that's not going to do nothing but draw current and pull power away from your system because unless he's got the amp mounted on the dash lol those AC vents are not going to do nothing later bro
@@robertpinger2537 very intellagent comment. 100% correct . When we burp at .25 ohm Some times our rolls take 20 seconds to give impedance time to rise.
@Buick Regal I agree with you but if you're competing your amps only going to be running for a minute or two tops. Because most people who burp don't demo
So as you know, going to a lower ohm load, your THD raises. So I would try a higher frequency. Also, if your just going for SPL, open your LP filter all the way. Also, put a oscilloscope on your head unit on the frequency your running to see where it clips at so you know not to run the volume past that. Distortion will give you a lower SPL reading.
Been at this since 88, 2 Things you can do to improve SPL with that box and in that type of vehicle. 1). Port it properly. You will EASILY pick up 3db just by porting/tuning that box properly. Those are port caps, they are meant to have an ABS or cardboard tube slipped over them which is trimmed to the correct length to make a port, they by themselves are not really supposed to be ports. I'm going to guess by looking... that the ports you'll eventually need will be close to 5 - 5.5 inches long. 2). Stand the box up, move it as far toward the front of the vehicle as you can, and point it to the rear with the ports at the top. The angle of the rear window will reflect the sound down into the hatch area where (as you know every time a low frequency sound wave bounces it matures) you will benefit more fully from "cabin gain" than if you put the port on the bottom and significantly more than if you faced the box forward. I expect you could be seeing 144 - 146db pretty easily. I'll lend you an HCCA 2100 for $50 lol!
I modeled these Blaupunkt's and guessed at his box dimensions and port size based on the data in the video his port air speed at full watts with these drivers are crazy high (off the chart high).. these subs are not reccommanded ported.. the only way to port them and get acceptable results are much much larger ports to prevent breakdown of the tune with the port airspeed..
He's already peaking in a nice, high freq to get decent numbers out of those. Shorter port designs tend to peak way better for spl, so, his ports are pretty good, really. Personally, I would have done 1 common chamber, one larger port about that same length. But, this looks like an obvious old school box from the 90s when we often did double ports per chamber.
Great vid Big D, the dB score was less because the amp went into protect before the cabin could pressurize enough and your meter responds a bit slow. The cabin of that Sequoia is massive and takes longer to build pressure up front compared to a small hatchback.
Clipping, once you go to high your speakers don't understand a square sine wave... It does more to hold at a point than move the speaker to a nice curve
That enclosure looks professionally made and looks like a nice clean install! Subwoofers = toys lol. It's fun booming and making your neighbors angry lol.
Your measuring spl so the smaller the cabin the higher the pressure. Try raising the box up on a platform or making a temporary wall with some paneling. This will reduce the air space of the cabin.
If you were my neighbor, I would show up with Pizza, soda, beer ... everytime I heard you experimenting with gear. I got into car audio as a teenager in the late 70s. I remember Blaupunk as that German brand that came as OEM in Porsche and a few other high end German cars. Never would have thought that name would be associated with dirt cheap gear in the future
Man you guys went next level . I had 4 punch pro 15s 1 linear power 1000 4 punch pro 10s on mid base on a linear power 500 and 4 linear power 1752s on mids and highs and got only 140s to 142 dbs. Back in the day. Ofcourse we were dodging dinosaurs back then. :-).
Man that is awesome numbers for that setup. Since your box is an “experienced” setup for some ol’school rockfords. Maybe try a different box fab. I bet these subs would put out some bigger SPL in a properly ported box enclosure? Just trying to help. Love your work!
@@keaton_mcrae powerbass 10" 275w sub and stetsom 1600w amp wired at 4 ohms, did over 145 on 95$ using a 400.2 powerbass amplifier too, my ports are made by baby milk cans btw lol
My God I keep seeing people ask this. Do you really think it's an app from the App Store? No it's an app from the App Store that connects to the $400 sensor that's inside the car it's not a freaking Standalone app
@@patrickbranchini378 sorry I just get frustrated when I keep seeing questions asked over and over again about things retarded so much so that a 3 year old wouldn't even ask
This answers my question lol I've been out of car audio for about 10 years and not current with some of the new gadgets thanks for the link I might have to invest in one of these
I just got back from an unofficial soundoff in Odin Illinois that had a friend of mine that picked up 4 of these. He managed 149db in the kick panel with about 5000w available to the subs. I was shocked at how well they did.
Might check the glue under the rubber ring on the Blaupunkt 12's. My surrounds were not glued that well and had leaks where they mount to the basket. I bought some around the same time you did Big D before the price increase. Audible noise was present in sealed boxes until I added a little glue.
This I totally want to see the outcome of. Unfortunately I'm at work. Would love to do an old school setup like my first beast setup. Mtx 2300 and 4 blue thunder legend 12s. Sealed. Never put it on the meter but it was loud.
@@jameswilliams4735 no doubt. I keep trying to find some. Ebay.. craigslist.. good luck finding an old 2300. Theres 2300x's out there. I assume they are the same... but I'd like to see someone do a dyno. Hint hint!
@@ROTTBOXX Everytime I think about when I sold my 2 brand new Blue Thunders and my Rockford Audiophiles I just get sick...😢😢. And I sold my MTX 2300...😢😢🤯!
Great video and great attitude. Looking forward to see if you cant get a burp out of that 1 ohm setup! This reminds me, I've had an old skool mega-low ohm stable amp I've been meaning to hook up as many cheap subs as I can find.... this has just made it seem like less of a daft idea :D
Even better would have been a comparison "taste test" style... Person picks their favourite. A $150 budget build and custom box vs. a $1000 big box retail store setup with subs amp and enclosure.
@@zachjohnson1 did I say had to be his? Or that it couldn't be demo equipment? Or that it couldn't be that of an acquaintance? Relax...was just an idea. If I am deemed responsible for Big D's financial insolvency I promise I will assist.
You could of discarded the amp In this budget test. Keep in mind you are using 60hz as your test tone. Simply run an extension cord to your vehicle and connect it directly to your speaker terminals. Again, just because you have high wattage it does not mean you will get high SPL. It has everything to do with the speakers linear Xmax, after the speaker reaches its xmax limit it will distort and change tone so the SPL from your tuned cavity suffers. Regardless its fun to see. Have fun and keep those videos coming.
A bit off topic Big D but there`s an interesting and short article on the CE Outlook website regarding new amp ratings and they specifically addressed how consumers are getting ripped off with these inflated amp power ratings.
Please don't roast me but, I had a situation where my garage sub, powered by a Dayton Audio 500 plate sub amp, disintegrated (origanal J B L) a pinch with another garage party looming, I bought a Lanzar 12in as just a plug-in for a temporary cheap solution. A year-and-a-half later it's still in that enclosure and it sounds f****** fantastic still. More importantly, it has earned my trust. This from a guy that was a JL Audio snob.
The dampening factor of most amps is dramatically lowered when the ohm load is dropped. The loss of control of the subwoofers with increased distortion and loss of ability of the amp to deal with what the subs were reading back to it would limit its control to hold a pure tone.
9:04 The power compression of the drivers probably takes effect. The amp is clipping, which causes the avg signal to increase from sine (crest 1.414) to square (crest 1). Accordingly, the coils of the drivers become very warm, the impedance increases and the efficiency decreases further. This also happens on the amp side, where the power supply outputs less on the output side as the switching power supply collapses. This then draws more current, but loses efficiency.
Subs are going up willie d. Cool demonstration tho. I’m working on a budget build too, but it’s gonna come out more expensive than yours. Got me a r500xd1 and I’m getting the mtx terminator box which is $150. I’m keeping the factory radio for now.
the posibilities in a toyota sienna I have a 2002 sienna . looking to get a system in it , but first taking care of the vvt cam gear . since it has the cold start rattle , not everytime but it still has it now and then , and the van has 302,000 plus miles on it , and runs good still .
Probably the less DB is because the amplifier is cutting the output and clips the signal in the process. (edit: tune the box to the higher frequency since impedance rise(aka box rise) is low on the tuning frequency! That will also produce a bump, up to 6 decibels or more!)
Williston Audio Labs Be sure to wire it correctly for a 4 ohm load now as well. Impedance should be about spot on within 2 ohms from rated at the tuning frequency [Fb].
The reason you got less db at more power it because your coils had began to heat up. When the coils get warn, but not necessarily hot the subs tend to not get quite as loud
Hi from Mauritius Island. With regards to more power output but less db: To put it in a simpler way, imagine you have one 4 ohms woofer connected to a single channel amplifier ( imagine the amp is using one output transistor which has an internal resistance of 4 ohms as well)... so the output system matches and at full power both the transistor and woofer will bear the same output power. If you now bridge the same amplifier (each channel will have one transistor of 4ohms in series which makes 8 ohms)...when connected to the same 4ohm woofer, most of the power will dissipate through the internal transistor, as it is now twice the resistance of the woofer. Thats why, amplifiers have different impedence specification, so that the output matches and most of the power goes through the speakers.
Did you fully close the rear door? Spunded like you put the door down, hatd to know if it was fully latched. You could have lost DB due to lost pressure out of the rear.
Meters generally take a second to register a reading, likely just got that burst of power from rolling in fast. I’d go back and try to do a slow roll on so the amp hopefully doesn’t protect on you
I've been telling people about the battery trick for years to check polarity of some stock 6x9 or something that isn't marked. +to+ speaker will reflex up indicating correct polarity.
The planet audio ac12 are also $36 a pop and produce great numbers. I have the 15" variant on one of those ignite amps you reviewed and it's shaking body panels. Keep the vids coming Dwiz!
Big D I have 8 of these subs in a half wall on a 3k going to slamology in June. Hopefully I can do 150 or close. Good job! Let's see these on the brand X amp you just got. Maybe more put output.
Awesome brother! I'm going to try the Brand X too, although it pushes me over the budget by $5, who cares....I may even try the Orion HCCA 3K SPLX amp too, lol
@@wal Can't wait to see that. I would love to see the HCCA and the Brand X on these subs. :) I will try to get you some pictures of my build when its done. shes almost there.
Very impressive... you just proved my point... Damn less than 150$ Guess it really doesn’t take much... I’m seriously re thinkin my entire build for my 3rd vehicle 🚗 🚙 🚘
Also it n my Sequoia I used modified quarter wave T-Lines with 10’s and it was very efficient. I was able to hit the same clean SPL with half the wattage. The subs were at risk but keeping the wattage in check it worked really well. Box was rather high but amazing nonetheless. To keep it simple I just used the math template in the T-Line Thread over at SMD forums. Easy peasy to achieve great results. Port termination placement was key in design. Subs and ports were at the most rear of the Sequoia; sounded cleanest, hit lowest and was highest in SPL. But for your situation I would def run highest gauge and the shortest runs possible for quick burps.
The lower SPL measurement was because the amp went to protect mode before the SPL meter had accumulated enough samples to display the next value. The SMD power meter would also have likely shown more power than it did. You can use an oscilloscope on a hall effect sensor to monitor power usage and will see higher peak values. On the SPL side, the meter works by taking an average value over a short period of time. If the amp goes to protect before it can calculate the next value, you won't see the peak measurement.
Rolling the volume up slower will help a bit. The termlab takes a good 2-3 seconds to get an accurate reading. I think in your case the amp went into protect before the mic registered the spl. If it similar to a termlab for taking a good few seconds
Either subs are on their way out or distortion killed the SPL.great box.really shows people that it's all in the box.well mostly.cant believe it broke 140 on those subs.fun video bro
Thanks for the video. Were you using just straight 60Db? Or what was the frequency cut off? I'm sure you paid a good penny for that meter. But if you could secure it so as the speakers are pumping you could also show in reference to how many watts are being thrown through it. Watching the video not able to feel the bass. This is just a idea maybe a bobblehead. In my Toyota the rearview mirror really starts bouncing. Something to give the audience the effect. Can't wait for the next video
Hi Williston. This particular woofer is suited for sealed box. EBP = 53.6. I wanted to suggest that you test again with the capped ports, but I think it's too late ...
Hey Derek @williston audio labs, here are a few things to try. Box position Seat position (lower rear seats) Open the glove box Sun visors Opening the driver door/ window Increasing/shrinking port area Add flares to both sides of the ports Decrease the number of ports and use 1 larger one Put the port on the side of the enclosure facing the hatch Put tape around the outside of the subs Cover the pole vent(s) with tape Shorten the speaker wires Shorten the power cables Add sound deadener Steering wheel position (height) Remove any trash/change/cups ect.
![Big and Cheap SUBS? Testing Two 18in SKAR Audio Subwoofers for FUN and SPL [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m-_Ies4CqUE/mqdefault.jpg)
![How Much Power Does a $49 4000W Walmart Amp Make? [4K]](/img/n.gif)
Every time you show off some underrated cheap gear the price goes up the very next day..
Dang it!!
Lol yup that is true
@@wal it's true. Jus checked out the ignite amp. Went up $15 on amazon.
Yeap, I go on Amazon and check and like you said the price is higher than what he said.
It is known
140db from 132 bucks worth of equipment and 360 watts is damn impressive, from any standpoint.
Yeah boi!
Goes to show ya that the box is what makes it.
@@dudndadn12212 not really the box is not even made for the woofers . in this case its not the box that makes it but that he got 4 12s for such a low price . 4 12s have about the same piston area as 2 18s that a lot of moving air even though they do not have some massive spl like excursion .
Don’t forg
Don’t forget the $3,000 battery bank power supply
Love how you just do things for fun that’s the hole point having fun and loving what you do keep it up
Whole.
yeah boi!
That's it !
If you think this is just for fun, take a look at how many views he has, It's All About the Benjamins lol!! This man is getting rich off of you, just from you watching .
Yep
So as you know, going to a lower ohm load, your THD raises. So I would try a higher frequency. Also, if your just going for SPL, open your LP filter all the way or run the amp in full range. Also, put a oscilloscope on your head unit on the frequency your running to see where it clips at so you know not to run the volume past that. Distortion will give you a lower SPL reading.
$150 SPL Challenge Rules / Results: 12voltmag.com/2019-150-spl-challenge/
Everyday Audios: th-cam.com/users/everydayaudios
HiFiVega: th-cam.com/users/HiFiVega
ShowTimeSPL: th-cam.com/users/ShowTimeSPL
Gear used for my setup:
12" Blaupunkt Subwoofers: is.gd/blau12subwoofer
Polk PA D2000.2 Amplifier: amzn.to/2Pps3Ze
Williston Audio Labs im so doing this i will spend $100 or less on 2 subs & i bought a used Pioneer 800watts RMS 1ohm stable Pioneer MONO block & i got a OLD bandpass box 4th order bandpass is custom made so ill measure it for tunning and replace the missing plexiglass with 3/16ths i hope! Might need 1/4 im unsure
Anybody try those 10 inch titan subs they got at parts express for like $10.50 ?
Old school flea market glitter subs.
Ghost Unspeakable id say the pyle / BOSS/ lanzar/ ssl/blaupunk/ DUAL/ planet audio/insert direct from china sub are all built a tad bit better than those old paper cones id say those titans are simply midrange subs with a subwoofer surround imo!
2 ohm?
@@toveryonder1115 they are 4 ohm. With a plastic cone. I think about 87db 200w.... But for $150 you could get a dozen of them.
140db! Mission accomplished
Yeah boi!
Lol, not bad. I use to hit 126 when competing in 0 to 100 watt pro a long time ago.
Dang lmao you had enough left over to include the Blaupunkt head unit 😂
Mine gets here Thursday!
Ha, head units don’t account in $150 price
I have enough for one in my couch cushions
@@depthsounderdave I got mine a few days ago, haven't installed it though.
They sounds great...
I had a shop in Paris, Tx for 13 years. I sure do miss this industry. love your vids.
Never thought about checking sub phase like that. Thank you for teaching me that.
less db more power consumption because of clipping probably
more power consumption due to clipping? clipping by definition means your out of power. So no soup boi not at all. Once a systems max output is reached just to gain an extra 3dB requires twice the power. Still hasnt explained the lose but heat and inefficiency would. An efficiant amp turns 100% of the power in to power output. Impossible. Cheap amps ran at around 80-90% efficiency. The higher wattage just translates into heat clipping and disstorion in the output signal. The magical at 1%distortion rating is used for a reason. Every amp is capable of exceeding power output above it but the output degrades rapidly.
Peaks are clipped but the average power increases. Sounds rough, but some like it.
Bet the protect light came on.
Maybe he peaked for like a fraction of a second but not enough time for enough pressure to build up inside?
Kevin Lechner had to be a burp then went into protect
140 Is what your goal was Big D. Excellent job buddy not bad for a cheap budget build 🤙 thanks for the video and your time.
This was a FUN video for me to make and gave me ideas of future challenges where I can include you guys. This way we can all participate!
@@wal sounds like a plan in the making.
This is honestly what I like to watch. Great video bro.
I liked this video because your learning and teaching.. I enjoy this type of stuff
Big D does a awesome job and is very informative about all of his test and information
Man I love this channel. Crazy how much money I wasted in the early 90's buying junk before saving up to buy a Fosgate Power 300 and Punch subs. It was worth its weight in gold but also cost about it's weight in gold back in the day. Keep up the good work!
Remember when Alma Gates had the world record bronco at 144db???
My how times have changed!
I thought she hit 164 with the first PPI truck.
@Shane DriftKing M3 Turner yeah... 144 is not that loud. I consider something to be "loud" when it reaches the 150 mark. 150db is a respectable number and 160+ is when you know someone's system is serious
@@djshedd77 144 is very loud compared to 99% of the nutsacks out there that think they are loud. Though they have systems that do Mid/High 130's with the factory door speakers playing with 10% distortion.
Side note I do agree that LOUD starts with a "hair trick". Real close to 150db
Just discovered your channel big D. Good stuff, takes me back.
Awesome! Glad to have you hear brother!
170$ including shipping on amazon for the amp now. Polk should slip you some thank you money for spiking their sales.
Wow, madness! Polk, just send me my check now 👈😬
Nice test! I was predicting around the 140db range and you nailed it :) I bet if you played with the port sizes some you might find a better tuning to squeeze out another db or 2...or build a beastly 4th/6th order for even more...Cheers!
Love it! Can't wait to see you hit that 150db
Throw that meter in the port and I’m there 😜
Williston Audio Labs 🤫 I won’t tell anyone 😂
Less db probably a result of mismatched refresh intervals in the equipment. If the AMM1 is refreshing every 100ms but the dbMeter is refreshing ever 500ms you get weird results.
That's what i was thinking to, latency actually or mismatched latency might be the cause
This is the correct answer.
Is there a standard refresh rate of most class D ? Or is it a factor of the quality of the power supply (Example: JL vs cheap SSL amps??
@@johnhornbeak5735 They're talking about the how often the test equipment measures, not anything to do with the amplifier. Basically the refresh on the sound meter was slower than the refresh on the power meter. That is why it only showed 137db on 900 watts, if Big D would have let it play a second longer the meter would have probably read higher DB.
Why would it be designed that way. I'm slightly confused.
That's what it's all about, having fun. Reminds me of back in the day scrounging together whatever we could get cheap just to see what it would do.
WAY BACK, 1983, built cabs for a pair of 12's from an old console stereo and the 2x8" horns that went with them. old school under dash equalizer+amp feeding about 16w/ch, loudest little Mazda GLC ya ever seen, lmao!
@@modelnutty6503 I remember using two pyramid 10's and a scrap little sparkomatic power booster to make a pretty nice system. Used to piss people off when they would search my car for a hidden amp and all they could find was that crazy little booster. Lol
Wired at 1ohm, set the volume on high, pause the track, power the amp up, and then just burp it. If you actually get that 950w for 1/2 second of full output, you should be good.
Back in the day guys used to run their A/C on high forever to get the amps cold too. I think that was mostly superstition, but a bag of ice would be fun to try. All you need is that 1/2 second...
I tried this and it didn't work. I think the amp goes into protect before the meter measures. I'm going to get a TermLab to try as I've been putting off getting one for a long time now....and it's time to step up my game
The problem with that is when you wire below stable load, the protection circuitry goes into effect when the rail capacity exceeds a certain limit.
This is why “burp guys” typically do a “slow roll up” so that the ohm load can safely increase to a limit the amplifier will allow
Yeah and you're right people sitting there running your AC that's not going to do nothing but draw current and pull power away from your system because unless he's got the amp mounted on the dash lol those AC vents are not going to do nothing later bro
@@robertpinger2537 very intellagent comment. 100% correct .
When we burp at .25 ohm
Some times our rolls take 20 seconds to give impedance time to rise.
@Buick Regal I agree with you but if you're competing your amps only going to be running for a minute or two tops. Because most people who burp don't demo
So as you know, going to a lower ohm load, your THD raises. So I would try a higher frequency. Also, if your just going for SPL, open your LP filter all the way. Also, put a oscilloscope on your head unit on the frequency your running to see where it clips at so you know not to run the volume past that. Distortion will give you a lower SPL reading.
LMAO!!! Amp is rated at 4 ohm bridged, I am going to run it at 1 ohm! EPIC! :)
Ha ha, these new fangeled amps should be able to handle it, right? :-)
Williston Audio Labs exactly! Lol
And changed the fuses 😂😂😂🤦♂️🤦♂️
IF you understood "box rise", you wouldn't find it so funny.
@@blackz06 please explain it. And why it's not funny
I saw a friend put the drill with the screwdriver bit right through his brand new 12" fosgate lol
Been at this since 88, 2 Things you can do to improve SPL with that box and in that type of vehicle.
1). Port it properly. You will EASILY pick up 3db just by porting/tuning that box properly. Those are port caps, they are meant to have an ABS or cardboard tube slipped over them which is trimmed to the correct length to make a port, they by themselves are not really supposed to be ports. I'm going to guess by looking... that the ports you'll eventually need will be close to 5 - 5.5 inches long.
2). Stand the box up, move it as far toward the front of the vehicle as you can, and point it to the rear with the ports at the top. The angle of the rear window will reflect the sound down into the hatch area where (as you know every time a low frequency sound wave bounces it matures) you will benefit more fully from "cabin gain" than if you put the port on the bottom and significantly more than if you faced the box forward.
I expect you could be seeing 144 - 146db pretty easily. I'll lend you an HCCA 2100 for $50 lol!
I modeled these Blaupunkt's and guessed at his box dimensions and port size based on the data in the video his port air speed at full watts with these drivers are crazy high (off the chart high).. these subs are not reccommanded ported.. the only way to port them and get acceptable results are much much larger ports to prevent breakdown of the tune with the port airspeed..
@@Ebacherville You have something set wrong.
He's already peaking in a nice, high freq to get decent numbers out of those.
Shorter port designs tend to peak way better for spl, so, his ports are pretty good, really.
Personally, I would have done 1 common chamber, one larger port about that same length.
But, this looks like an obvious old school box from the 90s when we often did double ports per chamber.
@Chuck Holmes sub positionig makes a huge difference
@Chuck Holmes "bass is non-directional"...? lol
This might be my favorite challenge ever. Good work d!!!!
Mine too. Have ideas for other challenges
Thanks bro!
One of your best videos! I imagine you would gain with them facing the hatch, maybe 10" away.
Thanks for da tip!
Great vid Big D, the dB score was less because the amp went into protect before the cabin could pressurize enough and your meter responds a bit slow. The cabin of that Sequoia is massive and takes longer to build pressure up front compared to a small hatchback.
Thanks!
BLAUUUU. Thanks for the shout out my dude
👌😬👍
I like the videos outside the lab. Curious to see what they hit rear facing!
Me too!
Clipping, once you go to high your speakers don't understand a square sine wave... It does more to hold at a point than move the speaker to a nice curve
But they are round? Not square. Ha, that was a joke! Thanks for commenting!
That enclosure looks professionally made and looks like a nice clean install! Subwoofers = toys lol. It's fun booming and making your neighbors angry lol.
I don’t make my neighbors angry 😝
@@wal Basshead harmony, right on
Your measuring spl so the smaller the cabin the higher the pressure. Try raising the box up on a platform or making a temporary wall with some paneling. This will reduce the air space of the cabin.
Great tips, thanks!
If you were my neighbor, I would show up with Pizza, soda, beer ... everytime I heard you experimenting with gear. I got into car audio as a teenager in the late 70s. I remember Blaupunk as that German brand that came as OEM in Porsche and a few other high end German cars. Never would have thought that name would be associated with dirt cheap gear in the future
Complete car audio noob here-thanks for the speaker phase tip. I feel like an idiot for not thinking of that myself. 🥴
That 9-volt tricks pretty slick there.
Ssl makes a $30 12 with a fs of 30hz, 90db 1w@1m, 400 watts rms.
Have a link for this? I couldn't find that same price....
They're $70 Canadian for the 12", $32 Canadian for the 8". Cheapest on Amazon.
@@MidnightToker24 amazon is not the site you are looking for
@@toveryonder1115 what IS...?
@@toveryonder1115 for Canada that is the cheapest out of any site that I found with shipping factored in.
Man you guys went next level . I had 4 punch pro 15s 1 linear power 1000 4 punch pro 10s on mid base on a linear power 500 and 4 linear power 1752s on mids and highs and got only 140s to 142 dbs. Back in the day. Ofcourse we were dodging dinosaurs back then. :-).
More than likely the subs were over worked at the higher watt causing distortion at the subs so they didnt work as efficiently?
Man that is awesome numbers for that setup. Since your box is an “experienced” setup for some ol’school rockfords. Maybe try a different box fab. I bet these subs would put out some bigger SPL in a properly ported box enclosure? Just trying to help. Love your work!
Love to see you competing on the 150$ challenge bud, i´m corrently in 2nd place with a 149.1 dbs on 148$ system :)
Killing it 👌
Latinsonido what’s the setup you got?
@@keaton_mcrae powerbass 10" 275w sub and stetsom 1600w amp wired at 4 ohms, did over 145 on 95$ using a 400.2 powerbass amplifier too, my ports are made by baby milk cans btw lol
Just recently joined this channel damn,you make the best videos ever. Keep up the good work and all the best for the future.
Thanks brother! Great to have you here 👌
What app are you using to measure the Hz on your phone. If ya dont mind me asking
My God I keep seeing people ask this. Do you really think it's an app from the App Store? No it's an app from the App Store that connects to the $400 sensor that's inside the car it's not a freaking Standalone app
@@KnowName33 big mad. Chill out.
@@patrickbranchini378 sorry I just get frustrated when I keep seeing questions asked over and over again about things retarded so much so that a 3 year old wouldn't even ask
It's the SSA APM-2 Wireless SPL meter - is.gd/ssaapm2
This answers my question lol I've been out of car audio for about 10 years and not current with some of the new gadgets thanks for the link I might have to invest in one of these
I just got back from an unofficial soundoff in Odin Illinois that had a friend of mine that picked up 4 of these. He managed 149db in the kick panel with about 5000w available to the subs. I was shocked at how well they did.
We got 147.5 in my Ranger in kick with 2850W. Pretty crazy for $80 worth of subz
@@wal Kids have it so easy today. I had to spend a couple weeks of income to get a decent sub when I was in high school.
Maybe have Mark at Car Audio Fabrication see if he can built you a box for the specs of those subs xD
That's a great idea!
it'd definitely help a bunch. even doing calculations for THAT box and reworking the ports could do good things.
Might check the glue under the rubber ring on the Blaupunkt 12's. My surrounds were not glued that well and had leaks where they mount to the basket. I bought some around the same time you did Big D before the price increase. Audible noise was present in sealed boxes until I added a little glue.
Thanks for the tip!!
Very nice as usual Big D
🍺
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@wal
Always..Thank you for all you do for the car audio community.Us old dude's appreciate it.
This shows the Box is everything
This box wasn’t designed for these subs though. It was one I had sitting around. Surely could’ve got a better score with the optimal box
Hade to take a long crapper at work to see this video lmao lol
Same
Way TMI..
This I totally want to see the outcome of. Unfortunately I'm at work. Would love to do an old school setup like my first beast setup. Mtx 2300 and 4 blue thunder legend 12s. Sealed. Never put it on the meter but it was loud.
Ah man...Blue Thunders and the old Terminators sounded so smooth back in da day! Wish I could go back in time to hear them again.
@@jameswilliams4735 no doubt. I keep trying to find some. Ebay.. craigslist.. good luck finding an old 2300. Theres 2300x's out there. I assume they are the same... but I'd like to see someone do a dyno. Hint hint!
@@ROTTBOXX
Everytime I think about when I sold my 2 brand new Blue Thunders and my Rockford Audiophiles I just get sick...😢😢. And I sold my MTX 2300...😢😢🤯!
@@jameswilliams4735 same. If I could go back I would have just stashed them in a closet. And bought more of them lol
I gotta ask Big D, what app you using on your phone for the SPL?
its not an app, he has a meter in the car, but it connects to the phone for a read out. the black box on passenger floor i think is where i saw it
Great video and great attitude. Looking forward to see if you cant get a burp out of that 1 ohm setup! This reminds me, I've had an old skool mega-low ohm stable amp I've been meaning to hook up as many cheap subs as I can find.... this has just made it seem like less of a daft idea :D
Parts Express has the Titan 10" woofers for $10.78 each. Those would make for a fun project too
Even better would have been a comparison "taste test" style... Person picks their favourite. A $150 budget build and custom box vs. a $1000 big box retail store setup with subs amp and enclosure.
I see all kinds of possibilities for future challenges 🤙
So you expect Wiz to pay $1k to a shop for a setup just for your viewing pleasure? What exactly would that accomplish?
@@zachjohnson1 did I say had to be his? Or that it couldn't be demo equipment? Or that it couldn't be that of an acquaintance? Relax...was just an idea. If I am deemed responsible for Big D's financial insolvency I promise I will assist.
You could of discarded the amp In this budget test. Keep in mind you are using 60hz as your test tone. Simply run an extension cord to your vehicle and connect it directly to your speaker terminals. Again, just because you have high wattage it does not mean you will get high SPL. It has everything to do with the speakers linear Xmax, after the speaker reaches its xmax limit it will distort and change tone so the SPL from your tuned cavity suffers. Regardless its fun to see. Have fun and keep those videos coming.
Try it with one of the Rockford amps just to establish a real measurement.
Ha! I wanna try all kinds of amps, including the Orion 3k HCCA 👈😜
A bit off topic Big D but there`s an interesting and short article on the CE Outlook website regarding new amp ratings and they specifically addressed how consumers are getting ripped off with these inflated amp power ratings.
Thanks for driving the Polk audio amp price UP!!!!!! ha ha
Oh lawd! No deal is safe!!
Impedance matching is why you get less power at 1ohm. The amp is stereo and designed for 4ohm bridged. But its always fun to try pushing the limits!
Yeah, why not? For science 🧪
I wanted to hear a song...
That box is doing a lot of the work. The whole set up is impressive for that money spent
These cheapo subs are boss mode
Distortion or subs maxed out at higher power so lower dB.
Please don't roast me but, I had a situation where my garage sub, powered by a Dayton Audio 500 plate sub amp, disintegrated (origanal J B L) a pinch with another garage party looming, I bought a Lanzar 12in as just a plug-in for a temporary cheap solution. A year-and-a-half later it's still in that enclosure and it sounds f****** fantastic still. More importantly, it has earned my trust. This from a guy that was a JL Audio snob.
Bet at 2ohm that amp would have gone into protect. Rise you would be 4.3ish
I think it would do great at 2 ohms mono. I’ll need to add 4 more woofers though 👈😬
@@wal that or change to 2 ohm subs. Perfect world right..
The dampening factor of most amps is dramatically lowered when the ohm load is dropped. The loss of control of the subwoofers with increased distortion and loss of ability of the amp to deal with what the subs were reading back to it would limit its control to hold a pure tone.
I'm pretty sure he knows what he's doing dude
What’s sad is I don’t even have the money for that rn 😂
weirdlife_8 _ 🤣🤣🤣
Me either!!!!
@@tatialo37 same lame
Damn man that was old school on that 9v battery👍🏼👏👏. I remember doin that test!👍🏼
OK that amp is more than $150 tho
Thanks Big D for answering my question.
I think it would be louder with one speaker that is a little better in a smaller SPL box and a 1ohm load
9:04 The power compression of the drivers probably takes effect. The amp is clipping, which causes the avg signal to increase from sine (crest 1.414) to square (crest 1). Accordingly, the coils of the drivers become very warm, the impedance increases and the efficiency decreases further.
This also happens on the amp side, where the power supply outputs less on the output side as the switching power supply collapses. This then draws more current, but loses efficiency.
that box fit perfectly fine in the back of your Sequoia. I wish I could get one like that for mines
I traded a friend some subs for it
Williston Audio Labs wow that's a great deal. I found myself a deal on some 10s in a ported box for a even 200 dollars brand new
I like your phase check method! I personally use a D battery so I can use it on small speakers too (1.5v)
Subs are going up willie d. Cool demonstration tho. I’m working on a budget build too, but it’s gonna come out more expensive than yours. Got me a r500xd1 and I’m getting the mtx terminator box which is $150. I’m keeping the factory radio for now.
Yeah these subs no longer super budget deals
That nine volt battery trick is pretty cool!
Make sure those subs are in phase!
the posibilities in a toyota sienna I have a 2002 sienna . looking to get a system in it , but first taking care of the vvt cam gear . since it has the cold start rattle , not everytime but it still has it now and then , and the van has 302,000 plus miles on it , and runs good still .
Probably the less DB is because the amplifier is cutting the output and clips the signal in the process.
(edit: tune the box to the higher frequency since impedance rise(aka box rise) is low on the tuning frequency! That will also produce a bump, up to 6 decibels or more!)
I will tune in! Like a banjo 😊
Williston Audio Labs Be sure to wire it correctly for a 4 ohm load now as well. Impedance should be about spot on within 2 ohms from rated at the tuning frequency [Fb].
The reason you got less db at more power it because your coils had began to heat up. When the coils get warn, but not necessarily hot the subs tend to not get quite as loud
Hi from Mauritius Island. With regards to more power output but less db:
To put it in a simpler way, imagine you have one 4 ohms woofer connected to a single channel amplifier ( imagine the amp is using one output transistor which has an internal resistance of 4 ohms as well)... so the output system matches and at full power both the transistor and woofer will bear the same output power.
If you now bridge the same amplifier (each channel will have one transistor of 4ohms in series which makes 8 ohms)...when connected to the same 4ohm woofer, most of the power will dissipate through the internal transistor, as it is now twice the resistance of the woofer.
Thats why, amplifiers have different impedence specification, so that the output matches and most of the power goes through the speakers.
Did you fully close the rear door? Spunded like you put the door down, hatd to know if it was fully latched. You could have lost DB due to lost pressure out of the rear.
Meters generally take a second to register a reading, likely just got that burst of power from rolling in fast. I’d go back and try to do a slow roll on so the amp hopefully doesn’t protect on you
Any way you can test a Toby Sheriff or any of the Toby line of speakers?
Best sub boxs ever.
I've been telling people about the battery trick for years to check polarity of some stock 6x9 or something that isn't marked. +to+ speaker will reflex up indicating correct polarity.
Well, now I know what I'm putt in my little 2002 Suzuki swift. Thank you for this video 👍👍
Yeah boi!
The planet audio ac12 are also $36 a pop and produce great numbers. I have the 15" variant on one of those ignite amps you reviewed and it's shaking body panels. Keep the vids coming Dwiz!
Big D I have 8 of these subs in a half wall on a 3k going to slamology in June. Hopefully I can do 150 or close. Good job! Let's see these on the brand X amp you just got. Maybe more put output.
Awesome brother! I'm going to try the Brand X too, although it pushes me over the budget by $5, who cares....I may even try the Orion HCCA 3K SPLX amp too, lol
@@wal Can't wait to see that. I would love to see the HCCA and the Brand X on these subs. :) I will try to get you some pictures of my build when its done. shes almost there.
Very impressive... you just proved my point...
Damn less than 150$
Guess it really doesn’t take much...
I’m seriously re thinkin my entire build for my 3rd vehicle 🚗 🚙 🚘
I was at $132, even more impressive IMO
Higher gauge power and ground at the shortest run length has done me wonders in the past... also trying the shortest peak burp allowable.
Also it n my Sequoia I used modified quarter wave T-Lines with 10’s and it was very efficient. I was able to hit the same clean SPL with half the wattage. The subs were at risk but keeping the wattage in check it worked really well. Box was rather high but amazing nonetheless. To keep it simple I just used the math template in the T-Line Thread over at SMD forums. Easy peasy to achieve great results. Port termination placement was key in design. Subs and ports were at the most rear of the Sequoia; sounded cleanest, hit lowest and was highest in SPL.
But for your situation I would def run highest gauge and the shortest runs possible for quick burps.
The lower SPL measurement was because the amp went to protect mode before the SPL meter had accumulated enough samples to display the next value. The SMD power meter would also have likely shown more power than it did. You can use an oscilloscope on a hall effect sensor to monitor power usage and will see higher peak values. On the SPL side, the meter works by taking an average value over a short period of time. If the amp goes to protect before it can calculate the next value, you won't see the peak measurement.
👍
Rolling the volume up slower will help a bit. The termlab takes a good 2-3 seconds to get an accurate reading.
I think in your case the amp went into protect before the mic registered the spl. If it similar to a termlab for taking a good few seconds
Either subs are on their way out or distortion killed the SPL.great box.really shows people that it's all in the box.well mostly.cant believe it broke 140 on those subs.fun video bro
00:25 that center console rattling and going nuts...pls tell me what set up was making it do that. Looks insane
CV Stroker 18’s on Linear Power LP2250’s. I show it in an earlier video. It’s Keith Payne’s Toyota Tundra. Gimme a sec, I’ll link the vid
Great videos man. Fantastic subject and study. Niche video style, keep em coming. Thanks... I'm not calling you big d ... but really, Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Were you using just straight 60Db? Or what was the frequency cut off? I'm sure you paid a good penny for that meter. But if you could secure it so as the speakers are pumping you could also show in reference to how many watts are being thrown through it. Watching the video not able to feel the bass. This is just a idea maybe a bobblehead. In my Toyota the rearview mirror really starts bouncing. Something to give the audience the effect. Can't wait for the next video
Hi Williston. This particular woofer is suited for sealed box. EBP = 53.6.
I wanted to suggest that you test again with the capped ports, but I think it's too late ...
It sounded a LOT better sealed, I’ll close up the ports and try again
Sealed is always a cleaner sound
Big old car should be peaking way lower than that, did you try a sweep to find where the peak was? I'd expect more like 40ish hz
Short 4 inch ports will do that. Those ports should be like 10 inches long each. They looked more like 6
Hey Derek @williston audio labs, here are a few things to try.
Box position
Seat position (lower rear seats)
Open the glove box
Sun visors
Opening the driver door/ window
Increasing/shrinking port area
Add flares to both sides of the ports
Decrease the number of ports and use 1 larger one
Put the port on the side of the enclosure facing the hatch
Put tape around the outside of the subs
Cover the pole vent(s) with tape
Shorten the speaker wires
Shorten the power cables
Add sound deadener
Steering wheel position (height)
Remove any trash/change/cups ect.
Awesome tips!! You da man 👌
Open glove box?
Hello, i have a 800w amp and when i turn the volume up it goes to safety mode any idea why ? I have 2 1200w woofer...
May have speakers wires at too low of an ohm load
So what should i do then ? Ty for answering :)
Cheap audio! Yay!!!! I have two daughters and two sets of braces to buy but I still can swing this!
Yeah boi 🤙
I got a yeah boi!!! I m honor ed!!!