excellent vid bro i love watching someone that KNOWS what their doing Ive a licertified tech now for 40 years my last automatics I worked on were the turbo400 chryco727 and ford c6 this was sooooooo refreshing to get to know some of the newer automatics out there .
Gary, your transmission videos are the best on TH-cam!!! Your explanations are always clear and easy to follow. Thanks a million for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. I would love to see some transmission diagnosis videos (meaning still in the vehicle) if that's possible. Know when to pull the unit and when in-car repair is an option. Thanks again, from a novice, to an ace.
i would love to spend years learning from this guy lots of knowledge on transmission repair which has always fascinated me i love rebuilding them they are fun good video gary
I’ve been hearing how hard it is to repair a transmission for years. I watched first video on here last week of one being tore down and really don’t see what the big deal is. Kinda hooked now I want to learn it all
Hey, Buddy Update on my cd4e. Opened up the face and the forward planet gear is chewed to bits. Shooting out chunks when I manually turn it (if I can. The thing is stuck). Probably the reason the car wont go forward or makes a grinding sound when moving when cold. Cant wait to put it back together and see!
Good work Gary. I have an 07 escape 3.0 that came in with a stall issue. The car stalls out when warmed up, while turning the steering wheel from stop to stop. I'm an a auto tech, not a trans guy...long story short i could not find a drive-ability problem. No intake leaks, MAF, MAP, TPS, IAT, and IAC tested fine, good exhaust back pressure, proper intake vacuum, no codes...could not find a problem. I did not have much data to look at on my solus pro, in the transmission control module. The key pids were TCC%, RPM, and TCCMACT. While test driving, I monitored the TCC% and for most of the test drive it remained at 0. The one or two times that the TCC % did change, the percentage only jumped to 50%. From what I've read, the TCC% should reach 100% when the TCC engages, and TCCMACT (RPM) should read around 10. I drove with normal acceleration as well as aggressive acceleration, driving up to 65mph and still did not see the TCC engage at 100%. I know that Ford issued a TSB for stalling problems that were related to the Torque converters going bad due to the high valve body pressure on these CD4Es. It clearly is temperature related as well. Can you shed some light on this issue. Thanks in advance.
Car stalls out when coming to a stop? is it a violent shut down? TCC slip is zero, that is good(what it should be)as far as the percentage, the computer will control that, as long as the slip is below 10rpm, thats ok
Gary Ferraro not when coming to a stop, just when turning, when the rpm is at idle (600-700). If I accelerate through the turn the car stays running. I can come to a stop no problem, but as soon as I put a load on the motor from the power steering, it dies abruptly. If I remember correctly the computer command (TCC%) was 0 for the majority of the test drive. Rpm was never around 10 like it should be. Values were much higher. Does this sound like a bad torque converter ? I also tried engaging the TCC through the scan tool through special functions, but the test would not work because the parameters were not met, not sure why, the trans temp was hot enough and I was moving more than 3mph.
Doesn't sound like a trans issue, the converter is usually commanded on around 35 to 40 mph, if the solenoid is mechanically clogged and cannot release converter charge oil the engine will abruptly shut down when coming to a stop or shudder real bad(not only on a turn) When the converter is commanded on you should see the TCC Slip below 10rpm, whenit's not commanded on, it may be erratic which really means nothing
Gary Ferraro ok thanks for that info. Maybe I over looked the MAF. The g/sec was right where it should be (between) 3-4 at idle, fuel trims were right on the money. The only thing that stumped me were the BARO pid readings. They were stuck at 156 HZ and 29, even after I unplugged the maf and reset the keep alive memory. Any thoughts about that ? There is a map sensor with vacuum line but I monitored the change in voltage after disconnecting the line and everything looked good there. From what I understand BARO readings are generated by the maf on late model fords, not the map.
I guess the only difference on a 4x4 bell housing compared to the 2x is the mounting bolt holes are tapped and bigger seal and bushing to accommodate the transfer case and different half shaft?
CD4E transmission upon initial start will go into all gears and work for a few minutes then quit. Checking line pressure and stall speeds, everything is spot on when working. Issue is that at time of loss of all gears, line pressure goes to zero. Do notice a pump whine just before and during loss of pressure. Have already done several fluid changes via the drain and fill method as the original fluid was very burnt. Have seen no difference in issue.
The problem is your screen is clogging up, cannot change the filter, trans has to come out and apart but the filter is clogging up because something is coming apart
My CD4E lost all forward gears, but would move enough to get within 3 blocks of home by pushing the OD button. I slowly and carefully backed home the last 3 blocks. I must have that runaway line pressure issue, based on this video and your CD4E tip video. Did you ever do the valve body rebuild/shift kit video? I can't find it. Great video! Thanks!
If you pushed the OD button and it moved tells me the drum may be blown, by pushing the OD button you bring on the coast clutch as an assist. Drum blows due to pressure spikes in the valvebody
@@GaryFerraro It amazes me that there can be catastrophic failure of metal components like that with virtually no symptoms, other than slipping, followed by nothing. No binding or grinding, hard shifts, etc. It just wouldn't move forward, unless I hit that OD button and that didn't last for long. I suspect mine may just be cracked, like you described in the "tip" video. I'm going to try rebuilding it with your suggestions and the upgraded parts. Thanks for the great videos.
hi Mr Ferraro looking for information about rebuilt CD4E I see that you recommend the transgo kit. Should I also change the Sonnax 2-4 accumulator piston kit? Thank you.
Shift kit is almost a must with these units, i have never used the sonnax 2-4 piston kit. You need the shift kit because of the bore gets worn out in the pressure regulator, causes pressure spikes and blows the double drum apart
I have a 2005 XLT Escape that is taking its time shifting up to 3rd. Was hoping it was a solenoid issue, but after a little investigation, it's probably worn clutch plates...car had about 170K miles when I bought it, and the fluid was dirty dirty dirty, from all that fiber material and no fluid changes. Sad part is that the PO changed motor oil every 5K miles, but never touched the transmission. Pulling this transmission looks to be the largest part of the job.
Ok, not sure if this is normal or not on the '03 escape 3.0l with this transmission. When cruising and the tcc engages and disengages when it seems it should, it makes a thud you can hear and feel. I'm sure it's the tcc, engine rpms drop slightly and transmission has been in 4th for quite some time as indicated by a scan tool. The problem, if it even is one, becomes increasingly noticiable as the fluid warms up to temp. I have no idea of previous service done, the fluid is nice and pink and smells fine. I'm also not sure if someone changed the fluid before and put wrong one in if that would cause the issue.
Hi Gary, I have Mazda Tribute EP model 2003 with CD4E. Just wondering,is this transmission have filter and where to find it? Did I have to replace the transmission filter?never done since 13 years.
I have a 2008 ford escape 3.0 motor awd with the cd4e transmission my problem is a flare going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Everything else seems fine. What do I need do to fix this any help would be appreciated?
Hey Gary 02 mazda tribute cd4e. I have a problem with just drive. Will drive in 1st and 2nd. But D acts like N. If you drive it and shift into D it drives fine.
Hi Gary, Thanks for the videos. I have a 2008 Escape that has no movement forward or reverse, it died over a period of about 10 mins while I tried to make it back home. I plan on rebuilding it and would like to know what rebuild kit, drum, and shift kit you recommend. Also are there any other things you would replace while it's out and apart?
I use TransTec kit, Transgo shift kit and i use an aftermarket drum(not sure who is the maker of it) Your going to need special tools for the installation of the molded pistons if your going to change the drum. kinda sounds like the filter is clogging up. There is a band in the trans, make sure you change that too.
Thanks for the reply! I did change the band a couple years ago with the heavy duty version when the band end broke off the OE one. I will change it again with a new one, they're cheap. Do you think I should replace the trans cooler in case it has debris in it? I did have to tow it home and it still has no movement in either forward or reverse. I may have damaged it worse by trying to get home...
I had a tiny come filter pop out of the upper right hydraulic passages... want to say it may have came out of converter clutch bypass??? Is it necessary to go back in? I’m not sure which port hole it came of
What would cause the trans pump shaft to twist and snap leaving piece deep in the transmission had to use a magnet to get piece out. Escape was not shifting gears at all.
@@GaryFerraro the part that was in the pump was straight and the rest was twisted going to the torque converter. From the torque converter is where it was snapped off .
Is the 4 tab washer part 231 on the diagram? I pulled the drum out from the pump side and there were four pieces left that look like they were tabbed. The rebuild kit I purchased does not have that washer.
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary I AM from Poland its amazing video I have trouble with my Ford Maverick 3.0 V6 04 CD4E TRANSMISION two months no solution from anywhere. I decide to write to you on e-mail and attache pictures and little more explenation and requested what parts on eBay do I need for this problem. I love to hear advice from you to do IT myself everone else fail before there is nobody WHO is doing them here. Thank you for your video's,greatings
Is there anything in these transmissions that can sound like a bad wheel bearing? Can hear the noise slightly in a straight line, more so over 60 mph, and pretty bad around corners.
I'm going to install that shift kit on my fiancee's 2008 ford escape limited. It's the v6 with awd. Call it preventative maintenance. Can the side cover and valve body be removed with the transmission still in the vehicle? And enlighten me on where to order the gaskets neccessary for this project, please =] Thanks Gary
I have done extensive research this last week on these cd4e transmissions. I'm a mechanic in SC. My fiancee is in Chicago. I'm having her change the trans fluid (also checking for proper ventilation) and the transfer case oil.
Hi I'm installing same trans but notice it said 4x2 and mine is 4x4 the escape is a awd no 4x4 option button what would i have to swap any parts out besides the passenger butter shell ???meaning internal
I do shift kits in all CD4E, instead of using the shim they give you in the kit, i use a longer servo pin, 3 different lenghts. (no groove is the longest and 2 groove is the shortest)
Is it at all possible to clean that filter without opening up the tranny? My car does not engage after only a couple minutes of warm up, only engages cold so I'm thinking I have the dreaded clogged filter issue. Also hear a skipping noise coming from the pump so it could be a combination of both. Can debris be sucked or blown out through the port hole behind the valve body or am I screwed? Thanks.
@@GaryFerraro Got it. I did manage to open it up and change the filter but now I have a bigger problem. My differential is getting locked up when I close the case. I know it isn't spinning because I tested it by attaching a transfer case to the input shaft and it is stuck. If I remove the case bolts it turns. It's as if the pressure from the case is causing it. I can't figure this out. See my video below. And pardon the swearing, this truck is killing me! Thanks for your response! th-cam.com/video/DviuenqlNZ4/w-d-xo.html
To add to this, upon digging further I had a busted bearing right on top of the drum. Also the pump rod was snapped so this is becoming a disaster. Now I need to decide if I have the skills to rebuild this thing or just get another trans.
Gary, Im stuck on a project and would like your thoughts. Changed solenoids and valve body. Tranny temp remains 96-98f and wont shift when engine hot. Bout to replace pump, original band, and the middle shaft before I decide to drop it. What are your thoughts? Fluid good. Cd4e tranny awd 2007 ford escape
@@GaryFerraro Correct. The TOT for this model is in the solenoid pack of which both the old and new one havent changed that reading. The temperature will fluctuate but it will always be in the nineties
@@McAdamsMechanics you should see what wires are for the temp sensor and see what happens when you ground them, or with the harness unplugged is the reading -40 like it's disconnected
You seem to know this transmission very well...if you could answer my question you may save me hundreds in buying a rebuilt transmission if this is a part I can replace myself without replacing the whole thing, I've searched everywhere but can't find an answer to my specific problem. I was driving down the road at about 70mph and my rpms jumped to 6000 and I lost all gears, every gear acts like neutral, park still parks. I have a 2002 mazda tribute. I'm thinking maybe the pump shaft snapped? I haven't done a tear down yet tho. Do you think I should try to replace whatevers broken or just get a rebuilt one somewhere?
ok if it holds in park, the axles should be ok. Check the fluid level see if it shows overfull, if it does something may have happened to the pump. Any noises coming out of the trans? when it cools down does it move again?
@@GaryFerraro the fluid was ok last time it ran, it was dirty and needed a change but not overfull, it doesnt make noise and it doesnt move hot or cold. Its really strange because there was no slipping no grinding nothing wrong that could warn me of failure it just quit one day.
Oh and when I was diagnosing problems a buddy told me to shift every gear then check the fluid I shifted it and he checked the fluid he didn't say that was a problem tho, I'm not sure what that test does or if thats important or not
@@GaryFerraroMy girlfriend had the same thing happen to her last night in her 08 escape 3.0 limited 2wd, while she was going 70 on the freeway. The only thing different when she lost all gears is that it rolls in Park! What might have failed that would cause all of these symptoms and rolls when its in park too?
Great video Gary. I have a question on a CD4E tranny in my 02 Escape. The transmission started slipping when starting out in Drive, but if I put it in 1st, it doesn't slip, then I can manually shift to 2nd, drive, etc... It doesn't feel like it slips at all once it's moving, and I pulled a long 6% grade at 65 mph. When it started, 1st gear was highlighted, regardless of what gear was selected. This lead me to the Range Position sensor. I pulled it, and found that a prior owner had obviously kludged the connector (looked like jb-weld on it). I noticed that at least one of the wires to the connector was definitely not making a connection I replaced the sensor and the connector. Now the display always shows the correct gear, and 1st is not always highlighted. Now, it still didn't start out in Drive, but once it's moving, it shifts up and down correctly. I just have to put it in 1st to get it moving. Because it doesn't slip going down the highway and it does shift well manually, I cant figure out what to look at next. Still seems like a sensor or electrical issue. I put a scanner on it and found P0731 and P0732 (incorrect gear ratio 1 and 2 ) codes. Thinking that these codes got set when the bad Range Position Sensor/connector was on it, I pulled the battery cables for a couple hours to do a full reset on the computer. It's still slipping when starting in Drive. After driving for over 30 miles, codes did not return. After it was warmer, sometimes starting out in 1st it will slip then grab, but most of the time it starts off just fine. If I start off in second, the transmission starts off in 2nd, rather than 1st then shifting up. Does this sound like an internal problem, or electrical?
@@GaryFerraro It has reverse, and it doesn't feel like it's slipping. If it's internal, would I be better off rebuilding it? or trying to find a used one? A Re-man is pretty expensive for that old of vehicle. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I've done a fair share of auto work (re-built engines, but never trans). It doesn't look overly complicated.
Also, there appears to be a change in transmissions mid 2002. When I look for used or rebuilt, it is asking if the manufacture date is before or after 11/01. This was built 06/02, so do I get the rebuild kit that fits 94 - 02 or 03 - 07?
I have a cd4e transmission that has forward movement in all gears even park. The parking pin hods it back and in reverse it is like it's in both gears. Any clue on where I should start?
Just to confirm, it moves forward in neutral, no reverse and in park it wants to go(but park is ok and holds correct?) If this is the case then you have a clutch that is locked together and will not release could be the forward or the dirct clutch pack, which means trans has to come out
@@GaryFerraro yes that's it.in reverse its like it's trying to go in reverse and drive at the same time but all other positions have forward movement. Not a shift problem and goes into park. Was hoping for something else but sounds like I will have to pull it. Awesome thank you for responding.
Hello Gary , today our family mondeo mk3 auto started slipping and making a rotating sound of rubbing metal until finally losing all drive in all gears including reverse.. after stopping for a minute or two and starting up again the car seemed fine until another km or two again we stopped and reset and again it made it run for km or two this way we limped home . what does this sound like to you? apart from expensive. again it starts and gets a little down the road again it slips to a stop. levels right temp ok , need to fix asap , big job even in removal on the mondeo, any help would be highly appreciated? thanks for the video may need to watch it a zillion times..
Sounds like the filter is clogging up. When you shut off the car, the oil back flows out of the filter, when you start it up, oil will flow back into the filter again, thats why you can go a few blocks before it stops moving again, filter is internal to the trans on a CD4E
thanks for the quick reply. I was thinking along these lines. possibly the lack of fluid flowing may also create the high pitch oscillating noise once drive creases.unfortunately the mondeo puts up a fight to give up its transmission, no easy fix, so other things will be wise to replace. i will persevere.Thanks again Gary.
just thinking, would a complete change of fluid possibly cure it? or Whats your thoughts on just removing gearbox splitting cases and just removing replacing fllter? is this even possible? is this too risky?
@@electronthebig2907 Drain and fill will not work, The filter is clogging because something is coming apart, if your going to pull the trans and split it open, just do the overhaul, really should flush the cooler lines out too.
What about torq converter removal, show it. I have rebuilded cd4e transmition and i have to fill the torq converter, execept i cant remove it, pry pull tug, will not come out
Oh nevermind was stuck, simply grabbed the threads and pulled harder, popped out. And no it was in a remanufactured trans. Just wanted to fill it w fluid.
Hi Gary, I have a 98 Ford contour 2.5 v6 with a CD4E trans. It is slipping out of 1st and 2nd really bad. At idle with the breaks on it will slip in and out of 1st to no gear. I get a code of P1747 and I see that it says "solenoid short circuit" Is this something I can easily fix on the outside? Or do I have to open up the Trans and replace the entire solenoid? Thanks for any help you can give.
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary, yes I did clear the codes and I drove it about 12 miles and yes the code came back. So when I am at a stop it slips into neutral and when I go to take off it jumps into 1st really hard as well as 2nd but once I get going past 40 miles an hour it stays engaged. I can do 50, 60 and 70 and its fine. Its just when I slow to a stop and take off again it goes in and out of gear. I have to give it a lot of gas to get it going. And now when I put it in reveres it engages kinda hard. Thanks
@@lenns_music Probably going into failsafe when code sets, saying pressure control solenoid is shorted. First i would check the connection at the trans, make sure it's good, pull on the connector and make sure it doesn't come out, if thats good, then unplug it and check the pins for corrosion . It is electrical code which means solenoid, wire or computer. Do you have an ohm meter?
I don't have an ohm meter. What would be the best way to get to and check the connector? I can see that the valve body cover is underneath the battery, should I remove the battery and the battery plate to get to the connector? Also something else happened and I don't know if the two issues are connected. Yesterday when it was idling my engine wanted to stall out. It happend in 1st, 2nd and in drive but not in reverse. Today when I test drove it again my engine did stall out when I came to a stop. Thanks again Gery.
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary, I finally got to check the connector today. The pins all looked straight but they had a little residue on them as well as the female connector, also what looked like a little dark dust. I cleaned them off and put everything back together but it didn't help. While sitting in 1st it still continuously goes in and out of gear without giving it any gas. I didn't have an ohm meter and honestly i'm really not sure on how to use one. I'm sure I can learn how to. If the solenoid needs to be replace do you think I can do it from the top side of the engine? The battery plate is kinda in the way but I can see all the cover bolts. Thanks again.
I never had but i would think you can, you would have to knock out the seal of course, i change that bushing on everyoverhaul. After the bushing is in, it may have to be "seated" if so, take the axle clip out then install and lightly tap to seat the bushing(make sure the axle slides in and out easy. Gary
I have a 07 mariner premier with this trans. Just started getting a code that says "2nd gear out of range". But I'm not sure what I should even look at to fix it
I have a cd4e 03 escape 2wd, I can't get the double drum assembly out. It seems to be locked to the pump stator. It does not seem to be damaged like most, but it won't move. Have you ever had that problem and how would you recommend getting it out? Thanks Tom
yes, I took the servo out. I had the same thought. I ended up taking the pump out of the case with the whole assembly, it appears to be stuck on the shaft at the bushing. Yes, the intermediate shaft came out with the forward sprag. Thanks for such a fast reply. I think my only option is to wedge something in between the pump and the reverse clutch hub unless you can think of something better. I'm all ears! Thanks
@@brandont3556 That is the pump stator, it bolts to the pump body (pump body has the gears) the 2 halfs have to be lined up, i have special pins that i screw in to the pump body and slide the stator in place and bolt it together. The pump stator broke? wow never really seen that
Hello! I am from Romania, I have a Mondeo Ford, with gearbox, from 2002, 2.0 benzine, and my problem is that the car does not leave the place. It just goes in reverse. Get in speed but just go back, it doesn't goes forward, just in reverse. I have changed the oil from gearbox after I had problems but in vain.The car just goes in reverse and get in speed but just go back, it doesn't goes forward. Please can you help with some advice!! What do you think is wrong? Thank you!
@@marianmarian2323 It is very common for the double drum to go bad due to pressure spikes. The side that goes bad houses the forward clutch. When the drum goes bad the car will not move forward. Greetings from New York
so i just replaced the solenoid pack on a 06 escape put it back together on the dash it shows reverse put its in park and starts. but i have no reverse didnt touch that gasket like us said do u have a clue what it could be thank u for your help
@@GaryFerraro it had codes for shift solenoid A no I didn't replace the gasket he didn't come with one but I didn't remove it I left it right on the same spot it was
@@ericgessner2618 If it was fine before and now no reverse, if linkage is ok, i would retrace my steps, you had the valvebody off correct? you hooked back up the manual valve?
@@GaryFerraro yes it was thats what I was thinking when I put the valve body back in maybe I dont have the paw right or something like that I'll look at that next week
I have a 2008 ford escape with that transmission i have no forward or reverse nothing any thoughts ? Like should I replace or rebuild could it be something simple or what
@@GaryFerraro when it's in park it dont roll that I know of I cracked it the other day and it wouldn't roll when It was in park it also didn't try to do anything at all when in drive or reverse
Also thanks for the video im pretty good with motors and stuff but never tried to rebuild a transmission I've been thinking about tackling this one as my first im not sure if I should or not
@@GaryFerraro hi Gary I live in New Zealand I would like to have a email address so I can send you some information because I can't get a part for my 2002 Ford Escape here my gmail address is shanesevenhutchinson@gmail.com . Thank you the part transmission oil pump drive shaft
wow youure not easy or delicate with a trar down at al are you hahahaa.. wow bang, beat, bry, toss, hahaa.. wow i would be too paranoid that i would maybe break a casting flange or ear or something anythgin by beating andf prying etc when tearing down disassembling like that wow... hmm,..
hi Gary I got a 08 ford escape v6 , I change the transmission pump, now i have no reverse and when I go through the other gears ,when I put it in neutral and push the gas pedal she would move forward. do you know why I have a drive gear in neutral.
excellent vid bro i love watching someone that KNOWS what their doing Ive a licertified tech now for 40 years my last automatics I worked on were the turbo400 chryco727 and ford c6 this was sooooooo refreshing to get to know some of the newer automatics out there .
Gary, your transmission videos are the best on TH-cam!!! Your explanations are always clear and easy to follow. Thanks a million for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
I would love to see some transmission diagnosis videos (meaning still in the vehicle) if that's possible. Know when to pull the unit and when in-car repair is an option.
Thanks again, from a novice, to an ace.
Thank you,I will keep that in mind, i do film those when i can. Gary
instablaster
i would love to spend years learning from this guy lots of knowledge on transmission repair which has always fascinated me i love rebuilding them they are fun good video gary
I’ve been hearing how hard it is to repair a transmission for years. I watched first video on here last week of one being tore down and really don’t see what the big deal is. Kinda hooked now I want to learn it all
Filter inside the gearbox - sick...
Amazing video! Thanks
Good video, perfect explanation about all internal pieces (thanks God I have manual trans) 🙌😁
Thanks for watching.
You're lucky, I don't 😂.
Thanks so much. excellent video. helps me understand the huge cost of getting my transmission repaired.
Wired Bounty Thanks for watching. Any questions just let me know
Hey, Buddy
Update on my cd4e. Opened up the face and the forward planet gear is chewed to bits. Shooting out chunks when I manually turn it (if I can. The thing is stuck). Probably the reason the car wont go forward or makes a grinding sound when moving when cold. Cant wait to put it back together and see!
Good work Gary. I have an 07 escape 3.0 that came in with a stall issue. The car stalls out when warmed up, while turning the steering wheel from stop to stop. I'm an a auto tech, not a trans guy...long story short i could not find a drive-ability problem. No intake leaks, MAF, MAP, TPS, IAT, and IAC tested fine, good exhaust back pressure, proper intake vacuum, no codes...could not find a problem. I did not have much data to look at on my solus pro, in the transmission control module. The key pids were TCC%, RPM, and TCCMACT. While test driving, I monitored the TCC% and for most of the test drive it remained at 0. The one or two times that the TCC % did change, the percentage only jumped to 50%. From what I've read, the TCC% should reach 100% when the TCC engages, and TCCMACT (RPM) should read around 10. I drove with normal acceleration as well as aggressive acceleration, driving up to 65mph and still did not see the TCC engage at 100%. I know that Ford issued a TSB for stalling problems that were related to the Torque converters going bad due to the high valve body pressure on these CD4Es. It clearly is temperature related as well. Can you shed some light on this issue. Thanks in advance.
Car stalls out when coming to a stop? is it a violent shut down? TCC slip is zero, that is good(what it should be)as far as the percentage, the computer will control that, as long as the slip is below 10rpm, thats ok
Gary Ferraro not when coming to a stop, just when turning, when the rpm is at idle (600-700). If I accelerate through the turn the car stays running. I can come to a stop no problem, but as soon as I put a load on the motor from the power steering, it dies abruptly. If I remember correctly the computer command (TCC%) was 0 for the majority of the test drive. Rpm was never around 10 like it should be. Values were much higher. Does this sound like a bad torque converter ? I also tried engaging the TCC through the scan tool through special functions, but the test would not work because the parameters were not met, not sure why, the trans temp was hot enough and I was moving more than 3mph.
Doesn't sound like a trans issue, the converter is usually commanded on around 35 to 40 mph, if the solenoid is mechanically clogged and cannot release converter charge oil the engine will abruptly shut down when coming to a stop or shudder real bad(not only on a turn) When the converter is commanded on you should see the TCC Slip below 10rpm, whenit's not commanded on, it may be erratic which really means nothing
Gary Ferraro ok thanks for that info. Maybe I over looked the MAF. The g/sec was right where it should be (between) 3-4 at idle, fuel trims were right on the money. The only thing that stumped me were the BARO pid readings. They were stuck at 156 HZ and 29, even after I unplugged the maf and reset the keep alive memory. Any thoughts about that ? There is a map sensor with vacuum line but I monitored the change in voltage after disconnecting the line and everything looked good there. From what I understand BARO readings are generated by the maf on late model fords, not the map.
Hey Gary, great content! What are the most common fixes for codes P0731 & P0733 on these CD4E transmissions?
Good vid !
I guess the only difference on a 4x4 bell housing compared to the 2x is the mounting bolt holes are tapped and bigger seal and bushing to accommodate the transfer case and different half shaft?
Thanks...Very Good!
Thank you
Really impressive. teaching new employees must take some time.
Thanks for watching, please subscribe.
Any questions just let me know
CD4E transmission upon initial start will go into all gears and work for a few
minutes then quit. Checking line pressure and stall speeds, everything is
spot on when working. Issue is that at time of loss of all gears, line pressure
goes to zero.
Do notice a pump whine just before and during loss of pressure.
Have already done several fluid changes via the drain and fill method as the
original fluid was very burnt. Have seen no difference in issue.
The problem is your screen is clogging up, cannot change the filter, trans has to come out and apart but the filter is clogging up because something is coming apart
My CD4E lost all forward gears, but would move enough to get within 3 blocks of home by pushing the OD button. I slowly and carefully backed home the last 3 blocks. I must have that runaway line pressure issue, based on this video and your CD4E tip video. Did you ever do the valve body rebuild/shift kit video? I can't find it. Great video! Thanks!
If you pushed the OD button and it moved tells me the drum may be blown, by pushing the OD button you bring on the coast clutch as an assist. Drum blows due to pressure spikes in the valvebody
@@GaryFerraro It amazes me that there can be catastrophic failure of metal components like that with virtually no symptoms, other than slipping, followed by nothing. No binding or grinding, hard shifts, etc. It just wouldn't move forward, unless I hit that OD button and that didn't last for long. I suspect mine may just be cracked, like you described in the "tip" video. I'm going to try rebuilding it with your suggestions and the upgraded parts. Thanks for the great videos.
@@justincase8239 ok, any questions just let me know
hi
Mr Ferraro looking for information about rebuilt CD4E I see that you recommend the transgo kit.
Should I also change the Sonnax 2-4 accumulator piston kit?
Thank you.
Shift kit is almost a must with these units, i have never used the sonnax 2-4 piston kit. You need the shift kit because of the bore gets worn out in the pressure regulator, causes pressure spikes and blows the double drum apart
I have a 2005 XLT Escape that is taking its time shifting up to 3rd. Was hoping it was a solenoid issue, but after a little investigation, it's probably worn clutch plates...car had about 170K miles when I bought it, and the fluid was dirty dirty dirty, from all that fiber material and no fluid changes. Sad part is that the PO changed motor oil every 5K miles, but never touched the transmission.
Pulling this transmission looks to be the largest part of the job.
Sure is, real pain to come out, probably direct clutches bad
Ok, not sure if this is normal or not on the '03 escape 3.0l with this transmission. When cruising and the tcc engages and disengages when it seems it should, it makes a thud you can hear and feel. I'm sure it's the tcc, engine rpms drop slightly and transmission has been in 4th for quite some time as indicated by a scan tool. The problem, if it even is one, becomes increasingly noticiable as the fluid warms up to temp. I have no idea of previous service done, the fluid is nice and pink and smells fine. I'm also not sure if someone changed the fluid before and put wrong one in if that would cause the issue.
Probably not the wrong fluid, but this a common issue, wondering if someone put a shift kit of some sort into the valvebody
What would cause those bearings to explode? That's what happened to my cd4e and ate a few gears.
Hi Gary, I have Mazda Tribute EP model 2003 with CD4E. Just wondering,is this transmission have filter and where to find it? Did I have to replace the transmission filter?never done since 13 years.
ahmad syahiddin Filter is located inside the trans. To change it you have to pull the trans out and split it apart. Maybe just do a drain and fill
I have a 2008 ford escape 3.0 motor awd with the cd4e transmission my problem is a flare going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Everything else seems fine. What do I need do to fix this any help would be appreciated?
Hello Garry! any idea on where to find the vehicle speed sensor of 2008 Ford Escape? 2.3 Duratec Engine CD4e transmission.
what code are you getting?
Hey Gary 02 mazda tribute cd4e. I have a problem with just drive. Will drive in 1st and 2nd. But D acts like N. If you drive it and shift into D it drives fine.
Sounds like the drum may be blown, try putting it in drive and hit the O/D Cancel button, see what happens
Also, two or three times when it stalled, the 4x4 light flashed.
Can you scan the transfer case?
Hi Gary, Thanks for the videos. I have a 2008 Escape that has no movement forward or reverse, it died over a period of about 10 mins while I tried to make it back home. I plan on rebuilding it and would like to know what rebuild kit, drum, and shift kit you recommend. Also are there any other things you would replace while it's out and apart?
I use TransTec kit, Transgo shift kit and i use an aftermarket drum(not sure who is the maker of it) Your going to need special tools for the installation of the molded pistons if your going to change the drum. kinda sounds like the filter is clogging up. There is a band in the trans, make sure you change that too.
Thanks for the reply! I did change the band a couple years ago with the heavy duty version when the band end broke off the OE one. I will change it again with a new one, they're cheap. Do you think I should replace the trans cooler in case it has debris in it? I did have to tow it home and it still has no movement in either forward or reverse. I may have damaged it worse by trying to get home...
Yes, if you cant flush it out, then maybe install a new one
But how to adjust the 2/4 band? Do you know the specs, I don't. Please tell, thanks!
There are 3 different servo pins for this trans, one groove, 2 groove and no groove. I believe the no groove pin is the longest
I had to replace this trans 2x in my AWD 6v Escape JUNK!!!!
😂
When a cd4e torque converter fails will it still turn the pump drive gear?
Marcus Howard yes it should. If the fluid is way up on the stick then the pump is not turning
Hi, i want to know whats the difference between the cd4e fwd and awd , its only the driveshaft transfer?
Yes, awd will have a transfer case for the drive shaft, FWD only has the axles
The common problem with these transmissions is the band breaks causing it to slam in gear
yes, had plenty with a broken band
I had a tiny come filter pop out of the upper right hydraulic passages... want to say it may have came out of converter clutch bypass??? Is it necessary to go back in? I’m not sure which port hole it came of
Like a cone shape type filter?
Gary Ferraro yes sir
@@Mikamitn If left out thats ok, i've done that before.
What would cause the trans pump shaft to twist and snap leaving piece deep in the transmission had to use a magnet to get piece out. Escape was not shifting gears at all.
Pump may have seized up,
@@GaryFerraro Even if it spins? Can torque converter seize? Thanks for fast reply. Liked and subbed.
@@-LiFe-ej5mv was the whole shaft twisted or just the end broke off?
@@GaryFerraro the part that was in the pump was straight and the rest was twisted going to the torque converter. From the torque converter is where it was snapped off .
Is the 4 tab washer part 231 on the diagram? I pulled the drum out from the pump side and there were four pieces left that look like they were tabbed. The rebuild kit I purchased does not have that washer.
If your talking about the black plastic 4 tab washer, they always break and no, they are not included in the kit
Hmm I didn't find a plastic piece it is all metal but broke into four pieces with small notches
@@joesears2546 my e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com Can you send some pictures?
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary I AM from Poland its amazing video I have trouble with my Ford Maverick 3.0 V6 04 CD4E TRANSMISION two months no solution from anywhere.
I decide to write to you on e-mail and attache pictures and little more explenation and requested what parts on eBay do I need for this problem.
I love to hear advice from you to do IT myself everone else fail before there is nobody WHO is doing them here.
Thank you for your video's,greatings
Is there anything in these transmissions that can sound like a bad wheel bearing? Can hear the noise slightly in a straight line, more so over 60 mph, and pretty bad around corners.
I have brand new tires on the front.
Carrier bearing on driveshaft? What did you find out it is? Mine does the same thing
I'm going to install that shift kit on my fiancee's 2008 ford escape limited. It's the v6 with awd. Call it preventative maintenance. Can the side cover and valve body be removed with the transmission still in the vehicle? And enlighten me on where to order the gaskets neccessary for this project, please =] Thanks Gary
Yes, the valvebody can be removed. Are you familiar with this trans? Where are you located?
I have done extensive research this last week on these cd4e transmissions. I'm a mechanic in SC. My fiancee is in Chicago. I'm having her change the trans fluid (also checking for proper ventilation) and the transfer case oil.
@@GaryFerraro we are going to drive it from Chicago to SC next month. That is where I'll do the valvebody mods to keep this thing running strong
ok, let me check to see if i have a video on installing the shift kit
Everyone I look up transmission for a 2003 Mazda tribute,it's crossrefferenced with the ford. Is it one and the same???
Yes, it's the CD4E, Mazda just has another name
is there a way to avoid blowing the snap ring from internal pressure? like keeping your rpms below 3k?
Do you mean on the double drum?
@@GaryFerraro yes exactly
Hi I'm installing same trans but notice it said 4x2 and mine is 4x4 the escape is a awd no 4x4 option button what would i have to swap any parts out besides the passenger butter shell ???meaning internal
Outter shell
The case is different also, the bell housing part, thats where the 4x4 unit bolts up to
when do you use a longer or shorter servo piston
I do shift kits in all CD4E, instead of using the shim they give you in the kit, i use a longer servo pin, 3 different lenghts. (no groove is the longest and 2 groove is the shortest)
Is it at all possible to clean that filter without opening up the tranny? My car does not engage after only a couple minutes of warm up, only engages cold so I'm thinking I have the dreaded clogged filter issue. Also hear a skipping noise coming from the pump so it could be a combination of both. Can debris be sucked or blown out through the port hole behind the valve body or am I screwed? Thanks.
Not really, no unit would have to come apart
@@GaryFerraro Got it. I did manage to open it up and change the filter but now I have a bigger problem. My differential is getting locked up when I close the case. I know it isn't spinning because I tested it by attaching a transfer case to the input shaft and it is stuck. If I remove the case bolts it turns. It's as if the pressure from the case is causing it. I can't figure this out. See my video below. And pardon the swearing, this truck is killing me! Thanks for your response!
th-cam.com/video/DviuenqlNZ4/w-d-xo.html
To add to this, upon digging further I had a busted bearing right on top of the drum. Also the pump rod was snapped so this is becoming a disaster. Now I need to decide if I have the skills to rebuild this thing or just get another trans.
@@thegreatpatsy sounds like some damage , maybe see whats out there first
Gary, Im stuck on a project and would like your thoughts. Changed solenoids and valve body. Tranny temp remains 96-98f and wont shift when engine hot. Bout to replace pump, original band, and the middle shaft before I decide to drop it. What are your thoughts? Fluid good.
Cd4e tranny awd 2007 ford escape
Are there any codes?
@@GaryFerraro no codes. Totally perplexed. Thinking maybe pump or that middle bar that connects it to the torque converter may be bent.
@@McAdamsMechanics so your trans temp stays at 98 while engine temp seems normal
@@GaryFerraro Correct. The TOT for this model is in the solenoid pack of which both the old and new one havent changed that reading. The temperature will fluctuate but it will always be in the nineties
@@McAdamsMechanics you should see what wires are for the temp sensor and see what happens when you ground them, or with the harness unplugged is the reading -40 like it's disconnected
also do you know the part number and where to buy? sorry for all the questions..
Where are you located?
metro Boston mass
You seem to know this transmission very well...if you could answer my question you may save me hundreds in buying a rebuilt transmission if this is a part I can replace myself without replacing the whole thing, I've searched everywhere but can't find an answer to my specific problem. I was driving down the road at about 70mph and my rpms jumped to 6000 and I lost all gears, every gear acts like neutral, park still parks. I have a 2002 mazda tribute. I'm thinking maybe the pump shaft snapped? I haven't done a tear down yet tho. Do you think I should try to replace whatevers broken or just get a rebuilt one somewhere?
ok if it holds in park, the axles should be ok. Check the fluid level see if it shows overfull, if it does something may have happened to the pump. Any noises coming out of the trans? when it cools down does it move again?
@@GaryFerraro the fluid was ok last time it ran, it was dirty and needed a change but not overfull, it doesnt make noise and it doesnt move hot or cold. Its really strange because there was no slipping no grinding nothing wrong that could warn me of failure it just quit one day.
Oh and when I was diagnosing problems a buddy told me to shift every gear then check the fluid I shifted it and he checked the fluid he didn't say that was a problem tho, I'm not sure what that test does or if thats important or not
@@Cyanide310 when something like that happens suddenly, something broke or striped inside the trans, not much can be done externally
@@GaryFerraroMy girlfriend had the same thing happen to her last night in her 08 escape 3.0 limited 2wd, while she was going 70 on the freeway. The only thing different when she lost all gears is that it rolls in Park! What might have failed that would cause all of these symptoms and rolls when its in park too?
Great video Gary. I have a question on a CD4E tranny in my 02 Escape.
The transmission started slipping when starting out in Drive, but if I put it in 1st, it doesn't slip, then I can manually shift to 2nd, drive, etc... It doesn't feel like it slips at all once it's moving, and I pulled a long 6% grade at 65 mph. When it started, 1st gear was highlighted, regardless of what gear was selected.
This lead me to the Range Position sensor. I pulled it, and found that a prior owner had obviously kludged the connector (looked like jb-weld on it). I noticed that at least one of the wires to the connector was definitely not making a connection I replaced the sensor and the connector. Now the display always shows the correct gear, and 1st is not always highlighted. Now, it still didn't start out in Drive, but once it's moving, it shifts up and down correctly. I just have to put it in 1st to get it moving. Because it doesn't slip going down the highway and it does shift well manually, I cant figure out what to look at next. Still seems like a sensor or electrical issue.
I put a scanner on it and found P0731 and P0732 (incorrect gear ratio 1 and 2 ) codes. Thinking that these codes got set when the bad Range Position Sensor/connector was on it, I pulled the battery cables for a couple hours to do a full reset on the computer. It's still slipping when starting in Drive. After driving for over 30 miles, codes did not return. After it was warmer, sometimes starting out in 1st it will slip then grab, but most of the time it starts off just fine. If I start off in second, the transmission starts off in 2nd, rather than 1st then shifting up.
Does this sound like an internal problem, or electrical?
ok just to confirm reverse is ok, no slipping? so far sounds internal
@@GaryFerraro It has reverse, and it doesn't feel like it's slipping.
If it's internal, would I be better off rebuilding it? or trying to find a used one? A Re-man is pretty expensive for that old of vehicle. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I've done a fair share of auto work (re-built engines, but never trans). It doesn't look overly complicated.
Also, if I rebuild, where can I find the drum for $70? I think that's what you mentioned it cost in your other CD4E video.
Also, there appears to be a change in transmissions mid 2002. When I look for used or rebuilt, it is asking if the manufacture date is before or after 11/01. This was built 06/02, so do I get the rebuild kit that fits 94 - 02 or 03 - 07?
I have a cd4e transmission that has forward movement in all gears even park. The parking pin hods it back and in reverse it is like it's in both gears. Any clue on where I should start?
Just to confirm, it moves forward in neutral, no reverse and in park it wants to go(but park is ok and holds correct?) If this is the case then you have a clutch that is locked together and will not release could be the forward or the dirct clutch pack, which means trans has to come out
@@GaryFerraro yes that's it.in reverse its like it's trying to go in reverse and drive at the same time but all other positions have forward movement. Not a shift problem and goes into park. Was hoping for something else but sounds like I will have to pull it. Awesome thank you for responding.
@@matthewstoneking1081 sounds like the forward clutch is locked together
Hello Gary , today our family mondeo mk3 auto started slipping and making a rotating sound of rubbing metal until finally losing all drive in all gears including reverse.. after stopping for a minute or two and starting up again the car seemed fine until another km or two again we stopped and reset and again it made it run for km or two this way we limped home . what does this sound like to you? apart from expensive. again it starts and gets a little down the road again it slips to a stop. levels right temp ok , need to fix asap , big job even in removal on the mondeo, any help would be highly appreciated? thanks for the video may need to watch it a zillion times..
Sounds like the filter is clogging up. When you shut off the car, the oil back flows out of the filter, when you start it up, oil will flow back into the filter again, thats why you can go a few blocks before it stops moving again, filter is internal to the trans on a CD4E
thanks for the quick reply. I was thinking along these lines. possibly the lack of fluid flowing may also create the high pitch oscillating noise once drive creases.unfortunately the mondeo puts up a fight to give up its transmission, no easy fix, so other things will be wise to replace. i will persevere.Thanks again Gary.
@@electronthebig2907 Welcome, Greetings from New York
just thinking, would a complete change of fluid possibly cure it? or Whats your thoughts on just removing gearbox splitting cases and just removing replacing fllter? is this even possible? is this too risky?
@@electronthebig2907 Drain and fill will not work, The filter is clogging because something is coming apart, if your going to pull the trans and split it open, just do the overhaul, really should flush the cooler lines out too.
What about torq converter removal, show it. I have rebuilded cd4e transmition and i have to fill the torq converter, execept i cant remove it, pry pull tug, will not come out
Was this is the car and running already? here any noises?
Oh nevermind was stuck, simply grabbed the threads and pulled harder, popped out. And no it was in a remanufactured trans. Just wanted to fill it w fluid.
Ok, good deal
Hi Gary, I have a 98 Ford contour 2.5 v6 with a CD4E trans. It is slipping out of 1st and 2nd really bad. At idle with the breaks on it will slip in and out of 1st to no gear. I get a code of P1747 and I see that it says "solenoid short circuit" Is this something I can easily fix on the outside? Or do I have to open up the Trans and replace the entire solenoid? Thanks for any help you can give.
This can be a solenoid problem, wiring or possible computer problem. If you clear the code, it comes right back?
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary, yes I did clear the codes and I drove it about 12 miles and yes the code came back.
So when I am at a stop it slips into neutral and when I go to take off it jumps into 1st really hard as well as 2nd but once I get going past 40 miles an hour it stays engaged. I can do 50, 60 and 70 and its fine.
Its just when I slow to a stop and take off again it goes in and out of gear. I have to give it a lot of gas to get it going. And now when I put it in reveres it engages kinda hard. Thanks
@@lenns_music Probably going into failsafe when code sets, saying pressure control solenoid is shorted. First i would check the connection at the trans, make sure it's good, pull on the connector and make sure it doesn't come out, if thats good, then unplug it and check the pins for corrosion . It is electrical code which means solenoid, wire or computer. Do you have an ohm meter?
I don't have an ohm meter. What would be the best way to get to and check the connector? I can see that the valve body cover is underneath the battery, should I remove the battery and the battery plate to get to the connector?
Also something else happened and I don't know if the two issues are connected. Yesterday when it was idling my engine wanted to stall out. It happend in 1st, 2nd and in drive but not in reverse. Today when I test drove it again my engine did stall out when I came to a stop. Thanks again Gery.
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary, I finally got to check the connector today. The pins all looked straight but they had a little residue on them as well as the female connector, also what looked like a little dark dust. I cleaned them off and put everything back together but it didn't help. While sitting in 1st it still continuously goes in and out of gear without giving it any gas. I didn't have an ohm meter and honestly i'm really not sure on how to use one. I'm sure I can learn how to. If the solenoid needs to be replace do you think I can do it from the top side of the engine? The battery plate is kinda in the way but I can see all the cover bolts. Thanks again.
can I replace the left axle bushing with the transmission in place ?
I never had but i would think you can, you would have to knock out the seal of course, i change that bushing on everyoverhaul.
After the bushing is in, it may have to be "seated" if so, take the axle clip out then install and lightly tap to seat the bushing(make sure the axle slides in and out easy. Gary
Gary Ferraro thank-you very much
Welcome
I have a 07 mariner premier with this trans. Just started getting a code that says "2nd gear out of range". But I'm not sure what I should even look at to fix it
Question, does this seem like it makes a long 1-2 shift?
@@GaryFerraro yes. 2 or 3 times of doing that. My o/d light off light flashed at me
The problem is your band is broken and it's making a 1-3 shift. If you pull the shifter to manual 2nd and give it some gas it will probably rev out
@@GaryFerraro what do you mean rev out?. Gix itself
neutralize. after it makes the shift pull the shifter down to manual 2nd and give it gas see what happens
I have a cd4e 03 escape 2wd, I can't get the double drum assembly out. It seems to be locked to the pump stator. It does not seem to be damaged like most, but it won't move. Have you ever had that problem and how would you recommend getting it out? Thanks Tom
Have you taken the servo out for the band? May be stuck on a bushing. The intermediate shaft came out with the forward sprag?
yes, I took the servo out. I had the same thought. I ended up taking the pump out of the case with the whole assembly, it appears to be stuck on the shaft at the bushing. Yes, the intermediate shaft came out with the forward sprag. Thanks for such a fast reply. I think my only option is to wedge something in between the pump and the reverse clutch hub unless you can think of something better. I'm all ears! Thanks
Tom Odom Try that but if that bushing is stuck may not come off that easy. Try prying on both sides together
I'll try that tomorrow and let you know if anything breaks. Thanks Tom
@@tomodom7827 ok, let me know how it goes
What is the shaft for on the pump that has the holes and rings on it. Mine on my car broke in half
The part that im holding at 31:15?
Yes
Is there like a certain way to put that back in.
@@brandont3556 That is the pump stator, it bolts to the pump body (pump body has the gears) the 2 halfs have to be lined up, i have special pins that i screw in to the pump body and slide the stator in place and bolt it together. The pump stator broke? wow never really seen that
Ok thanks I really appreciate it
Hello! I am from Romania, I have a Mondeo Ford, with gearbox, from 2002, 2.0 benzine, and my problem is that the car does not leave the place. It just goes in reverse. Get in speed but just go back, it doesn't goes forward, just in reverse. I have changed the oil from gearbox after I had problems but in vain.The car just goes in reverse and get in speed but just go back, it doesn't goes forward. Please can you help with some advice!! What do you think is wrong? Thank you!
Marian Marian This is a CD4E. Trans?
@@GaryFerraro Yes it is.
@@marianmarian2323 It is very common for the double drum to go bad due to pressure spikes. The side that goes bad houses the forward clutch. When the drum goes bad the car will not move forward. Greetings from New York
@@GaryFerraro Thank you!!!
@@marianmarian2323 The pressure spikes are from a worn pressure regulator valve bore. I always install a shift kit to correct this problem
I have a 2002 ford escape stuck in park. V6 3.0l automatic check fuse their good
May have an issue with the park lock solenoid if the fuse is good
@@GaryFerraro where can I find it? Or is it in transmission
@@thomasitta It's by the shifter, this won't come out of park correct?
@@GaryFerraro yes, have to use that depresser buttom
so i just replaced the solenoid pack on a 06 escape put it back together on the dash it shows reverse put its in park and starts. but i have no reverse didnt touch that gasket like us said do u have a clue what it could be thank u for your help
What was the problem that you changed the solenoid pack? Did you put the gasket on the new pack
@@GaryFerraro it had codes for shift solenoid A no I didn't replace the gasket he didn't come with one but I didn't remove it I left it right on the same spot it was
@@ericgessner2618 If it was fine before and now no reverse, if linkage is ok, i would retrace my steps, you had the valvebody off correct? you hooked back up the manual valve?
@@GaryFerraro yes it was thats what I was thinking when I put the valve body back in maybe I dont have the paw right or something like that I'll look at that next week
@@ericgessner2618 Make sure the manual valve is hooked up
A quien en su sano juicio se le ocurrio dejar él filtro totalmente fuera del alcance para reemplasarlo😮
This is why i just buy a good junkyard unit for under $200
I have a 2008 ford escape with that transmission i have no forward or reverse nothing any thoughts ? Like should I replace or rebuild could it be something simple or what
Does it hold in park or roll in park
@@GaryFerraro when it's in park it dont roll that I know of I cracked it the other day and it wouldn't roll when It was in park it also didn't try to do anything at all when in drive or reverse
Cranked*
Also thanks for the video im pretty good with motors and stuff but never tried to rebuild a transmission I've been thinking about tackling this one as my first im not sure if I should or not
No move could be a pump problem or maybe converter. Any noises coming from the trans. Did this happen suddenly
Buenas noches porque mi trasmisión no avanza ni para tras ni para delante cuál será el problema gracias
Can you translate?
Encontró el problema?
Great video. Put on some gloves
To old school, usually never wear them, i do have a box though
@@GaryFerraro hi Gary I live in New Zealand I would like to have a email address so I can send you some information because I can't get a part for my 2002 Ford Escape here my gmail address is shanesevenhutchinson@gmail.com . Thank you the part transmission oil pump drive shaft
And love the videos you put up
wow youure not easy or delicate with a trar down at al are you hahahaa.. wow bang, beat, bry, toss, hahaa.. wow i would be too paranoid that i would maybe break a casting flange or ear or something anythgin by beating andf prying etc when tearing down disassembling like that wow... hmm,..
sometimes these housing get stuck on the dowel pins
hi Gary I got a 08 ford escape v6 , I change the transmission pump, now i have no reverse and when I go through the other gears ,when I put it in neutral and push the gas pedal she would move forward. do you know why I have a drive gear in neutral.
If this moves forward in neutral, the forward clutch is not releasing, it's locked together. Why did you change the pump?
the pan rott and blow a hole in the pan
pan cover on the pump I mean
so if the forward clutch,is not releasing, will this be a easy fix.so this problem will affect the reverse problem I have.
@@203greywolf ok, you mean the side cover pan? driving low on fluid can cause the clutches to damage