Man, cruised right through that one. Important for folks to know that the router table wit follower bit can be tricky doin the forearm relief are with this style top addition. The grain can be a bit angled and bit might act a little wonky, so take your time and don't use a dull bit. Will be adjustig bit depth to follow curve. May require a little extra drum sanding in case of any tearout. Just be smart and think ahead, good luck!
When I first read the title of this video my brain read “super glue a top”, and I immediately went woahhhh I gotta see this haha! Luckily it was actually just the correct way to do it
Thank you, exactly the video I was hoping to find. I want to really weight reduce a strat body, and will have to glue on a top. This is the right approach from a cost standpoint for my budget and number of times I want to do this (twice, eventually a will do a tele too). Love the speed talking. Wish there was a beer can on the set to add to the vibe (although with the speed talking part there should be a small mirror and a rolled dollar bill). Your channel is great
When clamping a large vernier, especially with the bend, I would use a 1/2 inch high density foam between the work and call. It will distribute the pressure better especially through the curve. You can you two layers of the "floor mat" from harbor freight. Great job, I love your videos.
Im trying to plan my build for the ggbo 2021. I have no clue what to do. Theres so much ive never done and would hate to try something new but at the same time would love to try something new. Ive never done one with the bend on the top. Im trying to see how others do it. I might want to do this. I have some killer tops. Anyway I have a vacuum and all the stuff I need for that from doing carbon fiber work. I suspected it may be the best way but wasn't sure. I appreciate the video. Its way easier to make a flat top but easy isn't fun lol
Like the idea of FR with humbuckers and the hockey stick style neck. Explorer style head stock. Make it a Flame Maple Metal Monster. Very light burst edges, keep that flame going. I am just thinking about designing and building guitars. Starting to collect equipment and ideas after 45 yrs of playing and tech work. Thanks for this video! I don't like the sharp angle arm area when the flame or curly maple is removed. So if I want to do this it's nice to see one way it's done by hand.
Color choice? Red center and black burst edges with black pickguard, pickups, and hardware with matching headstock. Let the maple edge act as the binding.
Cool video, One method I use is to rout a bunch of shallow relief lines where the top will bend over the arm contour, I don't rout all the way to the edge os the board so you won't see the lines if you want to round over or don't plan on binding the body.
Keef style pups. Full humbucker in the neck, and some sorta single coil sized humbucker in the bridge. Not sure why, just looking at it, that's what I see in the finished product. That and purple stain with a blacked out headstock
Excellent. If I get ambitious, I may try this. An idea: Glue a strip of fabric (or duct tape) to make a 'hinge' that attaches the 'bendy' part of the caul to the main body of the caul. That way you get the flex of the 'bendy' part of the caul, and your 2-piece caul doesn't get separated / lost. (which is what would happen to me, I'm sure)
hey Matt, i have a vacuum clamping rig, that, I don't, see, myself using anymore. With, vacuum pump, bag w/slotted block, and the associated plumbing. I'll give it to yall if ya want it. We'd just have to work out shipping. It works fine, but I have run out of pump oil, (that shits high dollar) , fucking everything is anymore. Let me know if you're interested.
Just stumbled across your channel- i'm glad i did! Ive built quite a few guitars over the years, but you've given me a lot of inspiration and new ideas! Thank you, and best wishes from the 🇬🇧 (I also subbed instantly! 👍)
😮Firebird headstock, more flame veneer with black surround. P90 Neck/Middle and Humbucker Bridge. With the Floyd Rose it will be a beautifully sacrilegious, fire-breathing monster.
LOL love this video , Matt !! Ya keep me laughing , bro. !! "Bendy bits & sucky outty thing" lines were awesome !! Mostly though , you're info on installing the 1/8" top is phenomenal !!! I gotta try that !! Thanks !!
Was the body blank planed to be thinner, to compensate for the added thickness of the maple top? I have always liked the idea of a maple top on a strat style body(to have the good looks of a bookmatched maple top combined with the Strat's contour body shape - with the contour cutaways) but the example I saw of an aftermarket body had routing for binding, which I don't want. Thanks, I especially liked the Speedy Gonzalez video section(too bad you didn't have his cartoon vocals over that section, too). Good job!
Hi David, thanks for watching. That body blank with the maple top is just under 1.75" right at the regular thickness. In one of the next videos I'll show y'all how we do a very thin veneer top. Generally speaking you will need to have some kind of transition usually binding is a good way to do this but you can also burst the edge. People seem to like the sped up part... I just did that because the video was getting so long... happy accident I guess
well done leaving in the voice over at high speed! loved that!! most would have cut it-boring! id like to see the guitar with a translucent top like the green one. cheers from a patron!
Personally if a method works it's perfect, if it costs less it's double perfect lol. On my first body I did a spalted beech top with mahogany back, I just used a whole bunch of big heavy books to clamp it and it worked spot on.
I don't really want to on this one. I do so much binding and love the look but I just want to do a nice burst to hide the edge. I have a few coming up with binding
That top turned out nice! Looking forward to seeing what type of finish you put on that maple! Maybe some humbuckers would be cool with coil splitting pot switches! Gold hardware??? 👍😎🎸🎶
@texas toast guitars I noticed a small indent on the back from the clamps. How would you go about taking them out? Also, to prevent from getting them what would you recommend? Have another scrap blank on the back or something else? Love the videos!
HI Tim, of course the best way is to use clamping cauls to prevent indentations. If you think ahead you can use clamps in places that will get machined more so the indents get cut away. If you have some you can steam them out. The wood is still there and it can be raised with moisture and heat. Think soldering iron or even clothing iron
Texas Toast Guitars thank you for the reply and the information. I’m thinking of doing my second bass build soon and love all the info and instruction. Keep up the great work!
Hey Matt!...was the body already finished thickness of 1 3/4 ?...I got a 1/4 flame maple top I'd like to add to a strat body would I need to router the body down a 1/4 inch to compensate for the top thickness?...or maybe take the top down to an 1/8 of inch ?..Id be afraid of chip out if I tried to plane down the body
Great vid! I've been doing repairs for over 20 years and think it is finally time to venture into building... do you recommend the DIY kits as a place to start? And what minimum power tools do you recommend? I have PLENTY of hand tools... leveling blocks, fret files, etc.
Thanks for watching Daddy O'. The DIY kits can be, surprisingly, not sucky. Do some homework and see what looks good. I'd start with the Tele one because even a lousy Tele sounds like a Tele. You will need some power tools for sure. I'll do a video one day about tools. I'd say you need to have a jointer, a bandsaw and a router or 2 or 3
Texas Toast Guitars I'm fully prepared for trash tuners and pitiful pups... as long as the neck doesn't look like a skateboard ramp I think I will be fine. I've got a couple of routers, some sanders, and a drill press. Yes, that vid would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, nice vid! what is the thickness of this maple top? in your opinion, what is the maximum table thickness that can be bent in this way? What is the maximum angle of the bevel that can be covered in this way?
Hi Antoinie, You can do lots of stuff, the 1/8 top will bend pretty easily or you can add heat to help it along. I'm going to be doing a video soon where I bend a 1/4 top, stay tuned
Can I ask exactly which wood/combination you would recommend for the best stratocaster body? I'm looking to get a strat custom made. Thinking about ash with a maple cap. Any tips appreciated!!
When gluing a veneer on like this, do you worry about how smoothly sanded the contact sides are when gluing?? Do you want the contact sides a little rougher? is 200grit enough or is higher grit or lower grit better for getting the best bond?
Both the body and the top came off the thickness sander and that has 60 grit on it. I wouldn't bother sanding any more that... even if you are using .024 veneers. I'll address that in a future video, that is a good topic
tite bond 2 or 3 and why i use 3 and thinking about keepin both in the shop ,so i want your opinion as to which is best for which task thanks, Richard, RLX Guitars
I only use the Original Titebond. There are lots of reasons to use the other stuff but I don't think they are related to guitar building. The original is also the only aliphatic resin the others are some kind of cross link polymer or something else for water resistance... who knows. You should use what you like amigo, that's what I do Have a great week
This top was thin enough that moisture wasn't necessary. Actually, adding water to bend, even acoustic sides is pretty rare these days. I think every one has the bending machine and it is mostly heat that aids in bending. Back when I was doing side bending we didn't have one of those rigs and you had to add water or the iron would burn your wood all to hell.
The top will flex quite a bit when it is that thin. Once they get over 1/8 you might need to steam the wood or even cut groves in the back (if you are going to bind it) to get it to mold around the shape. Maybe I'll do a video about that some time? I think I have a 1/4 top Daily Driver coming up.
I wonder how this crazy thing is done: *Types it in search bar* Oh, Texas Toast has a video on it It's two years old already Thanks for this explanation. I'm thinking about doing hollow body Strat with that style of top just because no one has done it. Well, I won't be surprised if you did
Just so y’know, the ‘amphetamined segment’ starts at 9:50-in. 🤣 I made my 1st Koa veneered non-reverse Firebird body and boy howdy, do I wish I’d’ve watched this video beforehand; still injecting air pockets with thinned glue in spots for reclamping.
That would be cool, of course, you know we have to use our own headstock... We were also thinking about a 12 string Challenger? We have lots of bodies ready to go just need to make a neck.
Hi Disco 58, I'm wasn't really worried about stress cracking on these because the wood was very thin and the curve was very gradual. Thanks for watching
One thing i really hate, is when you have a capped strat, then someone routes all the channels on the front to add a pickguard. I mean, you go all the way to have a great top then ruin it then hide it. Instead, ho duper strat with rear control cavity. Show off the wood, not ruin it.
best technique? using superglue for everything! you may ask; "but 5hhhrrereeeder, how the hell do you use superglue without getting premature bonding? are you an idiot?" i would glue the non-bendy spot first, and then put glue down and bond the bendy part after it dries. clamps fly when using superglue properly though. i just like superglue, i am not saying this is a good idea for everyone, results may vary, and normal wood glue works fine for almost every luthier application.
lol, i use epoxy sometimes... though epoxy seperates from things easy, and i had a fretboard delaminate in a spot while i was building one time because of it(which i fixed with superglue[of course] and a syringe). so, it is usually reserved for stuff like filling non-structurally crucial areas, such as filling the empty area between the trussrod and the wood.(it is more of a resin than glue in that application, since it isn't crucial that it sticks, and my trussrods have nickel plated sheaths, so they don't get ruined when i do this). another fun glue though is foamless gorrila glue(it is a polyurethane glue), though, i like short cure times, so i only use it when it is crucial to have a long work time.
Never said he couldn't, I just said it was a pain to do. 😀 spraying colors is much easier than hand applying dyes/stains then clear. Challenge: Hand apply dyes leave natural binding.
That's not much of an arm contour, now is it? It almost flat. The arm contour of a Tom Anderson; now that IS an arm contour. Please do that and this video again.
The best intro of all YT channels
Thanks for watching Juan, glad to hear you are enjoying the vidoes
Oh, I can hear those 80's metal tones coming out of it already! Righteous!!😃
Thanks brotherman. You got to ask yourself... what would Reb Beach do? hahaha
Man, cruised right through that one. Important for folks to know that the router table wit follower bit can be tricky doin the forearm relief are with this style top addition. The grain can be a bit angled and bit might act a little wonky, so take your time and don't use a dull bit. Will be adjustig bit depth to follow curve. May require a little extra drum sanding in case of any tearout. Just be smart and think ahead, good luck!
Hahahahahaha, the warp speed was awesome and hilarious, I love your channel man.
Wow man .......you sure you sped up the video?......or did you take a six of red bull.....and a couple of caffeine tablets
When I first read the title of this video my brain read “super glue a top”, and I immediately went woahhhh I gotta see this haha! Luckily it was actually just the correct way to do it
I have talked with people who use super glue for wood exclusively, I don't get it
It scuks being lysdexic.
Thanks for both parts - what a hoot, warp speed thanks to Scotty
Thank you, exactly the video I was hoping to find. I want to really weight reduce a strat body, and will have to glue on a top. This is the right approach from a cost standpoint for my budget and number of times I want to do this (twice, eventually a will do a tele too). Love the speed talking. Wish there was a beer can on the set to add to the vibe (although with the speed talking part there should be a small mirror and a rolled dollar bill). Your channel is great
When clamping a large vernier, especially with the bend, I would use a 1/2 inch high density foam between the work and call. It will distribute the pressure better especially through the curve. You can you two layers of the "floor mat" from harbor freight.
Great job, I love your videos.
I really like the vacuum but this way works pretty well too
You do great work. I'm planning to build my first. You've been a big help!
You totally had me at suckie outie air thing.
Thanks for watching Joseph,y You would never guess I did so poorly in English class, right? hahaha
Joseph Martinez 😃🤣😂
Awesome tutorial. How thick is that maple top?
Hockey stick headstock...YES! Do it, Man. Great video.
The Super Strat is making a comeback... watch people will now tell me that they never went anywhere, they are probably right
Im trying to plan my build for the ggbo 2021. I have no clue what to do. Theres so much ive never done and would hate to try something new but at the same time would love to try something new. Ive never done one with the bend on the top. Im trying to see how others do it. I might want to do this. I have some killer tops. Anyway I have a vacuum and all the stuff I need for that from doing carbon fiber work. I suspected it may be the best way but wasn't sure. I appreciate the video. Its way easier to make a flat top but easy isn't fun lol
You got that right Joe, looking forward to seeing what you come up with
Like the idea of FR with humbuckers and the hockey stick style neck. Explorer style head stock. Make it a Flame Maple Metal Monster. Very light burst edges, keep that flame going. I am just thinking about designing and building guitars. Starting to collect equipment and ideas after 45 yrs of playing and tech work. Thanks for this video! I don't like the sharp angle arm area when the flame or curly maple is removed. So if I want to do this it's nice to see one way it's done by hand.
Thanks for watching my friend stay tuned and we'll see what we can come up with
Color choice? Red center and black burst edges with black pickguard, pickups, and hardware with matching headstock. Let the maple edge act as the binding.
This one is already done, I can't really remember what color it got
HF also has deep throat C clamps. I have 6 for getting to the middle of the top
Totally
Good job Matt.
Thanks Bryan
Cool video, One method I use is to rout a bunch of shallow relief lines where the top will bend over the arm contour, I don't rout all the way to the edge os the board so you won't see the lines if you want to round over or don't plan on binding the body.
We have done that on thicker tops it works great... as you know
I'm watching your videos like as Netflix show. Thanks for sharing
This is great stuff, I'm saving this to my phone
Cool man thanks for watching
You should absolutely do that speed up thing on some more of your videos. That was some funny shit
We have been using it a lot here lately
Crazy clamp action 🤣
I misread the title and was pretty curious why you were going to super-glue that top to the body
Vacuum bag is the best, but this is great for the average builder.
I agree that the vacuum is better, especially on veneers. We have a really great vac set up and it rocks but not everyone has the same tools we do
Keef style pups. Full humbucker in the neck, and some sorta single coil sized humbucker in the bridge.
Not sure why, just looking at it, that's what I see in the finished product.
That and purple stain with a blacked out headstock
Oh man, that might be too crazy even for me. I was thinking something like a tobacco sunburst with a Floyd hahaha
Excellent. If I get ambitious, I may try this.
An idea: Glue a strip of fabric (or duct tape) to make a 'hinge' that attaches the 'bendy' part of the caul to the main body of the caul. That way you get the flex of the 'bendy' part of the caul, and your 2-piece caul doesn't get separated / lost. (which is what would happen to me, I'm sure)
Good idea Tim... I'm pretty sure I already lost part or all of that caul hahaha
hey Matt, i have a vacuum clamping rig, that, I don't, see, myself using anymore. With, vacuum pump, bag w/slotted block, and the associated plumbing. I'll give it to yall if ya want it. We'd just have to work out shipping. It works fine, but I have run out of pump oil, (that shits high dollar) , fucking everything is anymore. Let me know if you're interested.
Totally, though I don't know how it would work on the shipping end?
Just stumbled across your channel- i'm glad i did! Ive built quite a few guitars over the years, but you've given me a lot of inspiration and new ideas!
Thank you, and best wishes from the 🇬🇧
(I also subbed instantly! 👍)
Thanks Alan, glad to hear you are digging the videos
Try the Daily Driver headstock in a tiltback configuration. And upside-down.
That could be cool...
I'm totally going to do the 7 degree headsock
love yer channel man....I'm new here so thanks for sharing your experience
Welcome aboard!
Nice video and explanations. Thanks for your content dude
My pleasure Eric
Cool! I think a Super Strat is a great idea.
Totally fun guitars too
😮Firebird headstock, more flame veneer with black surround. P90 Neck/Middle and Humbucker Bridge. With the Floyd Rose it will be a beautifully sacrilegious, fire-breathing monster.
can u make a custom top for a surh modern? (repair) and how much and how long?
Gey Matt. What are those vacuum bags you use called? Ive tried looking them up but cant find them.
Check out the guys at Veneer Supplies
LOL love this video , Matt !! Ya keep me laughing , bro. !! "Bendy bits & sucky outty thing" lines were awesome !! Mostly though , you're info on installing the 1/8" top is phenomenal !!! I gotta try that !! Thanks !!
Thanks a million brotherman
Great Channel, man. What should the Strat be when complete? Mine
Thanks for watching Joseph, we would be more than happy to one started for you too.
If I could afford it, you would have already started. It's all I can do to afford my Mexican Strat.
Thanks mate! That was exactly the vid I've been wanting. Cheers!
Happy to help Gareth
Was the body blank planed to be thinner, to compensate for the added thickness of the maple top? I have always liked the idea of a maple top on a strat style body(to have the good looks of a bookmatched maple top combined with the Strat's contour body shape - with the contour cutaways) but the example I saw of an aftermarket body had routing for binding, which I don't want. Thanks, I especially liked the Speedy Gonzalez video section(too bad you didn't have his cartoon vocals over that section, too). Good job!
Hi David, thanks for watching. That body blank with the maple top is just under 1.75" right at the regular thickness. In one of the next videos I'll show y'all how we do a very thin veneer top. Generally speaking you will need to have some kind of transition usually binding is a good way to do this but you can also burst the edge. People seem to like the sped up part... I just did that because the video was getting so long... happy accident I guess
Are you planning on inverting the hockey stick headstock? That would look so awesome on that style body.
There was originally some talk of that. I have a customer that is looking this over and trying to figure out if he want's to make it his.
you know I want it
We are going to have some cool stuff to show you in a little bit Jim
well done leaving in the voice over at high speed! loved that!! most would have cut it-boring! id like to see the guitar with a translucent top like the green one. cheers from a patron!
Thanks Toby, I wasn't sure what to do with that bit... the video was already long and that seemed like a good thing to try.
sucky outy air thing got my like! If your so smart you'd finish it satin! love the content man. Thanks
Thanks for watching Tmurphy I can't remember what finish that guitar got... it might have been satin?
Personally if a method works it's perfect, if it costs less it's double perfect lol.
On my first body I did a spalted beech top with mahogany back, I just used a whole bunch of big heavy books to clamp it and it worked spot on.
Good deal man
U sounded like me after I take my stimulants lol.
Like the video. Thanks.
Can this be done on a roasted maple?
Well you just added another subscriber. Great video! I hope you keep videoing this build.
Thanks Lewis there will be more videos on this and other guitars for sure
great video, great clamp collection!
Pretty sure you can never have enough clamps... much less too many
Looking forward to seeing it
Sweet technique Matt. Gonna have to try that someday. You gonna bind the top edge of the body ?
I don't really want to on this one. I do so much binding and love the look but I just want to do a nice burst to hide the edge. I have a few coming up with binding
This guy is awesome! neet job.
Thanks David
That top turned out nice! Looking forward to seeing what type of finish you put on that maple! Maybe some humbuckers would be cool with coil splitting pot switches! Gold hardware??? 👍😎🎸🎶
Bling Bling!
The double neck we did had the coil splitting feature, it was slick
Texas Toast Guitars ya that's right! That was an awesome build!👍😎🎸🎶
@texas toast guitars I noticed a small indent on the back from the clamps. How would you go about taking them out? Also, to prevent from getting them what would you recommend? Have another scrap blank on the back or something else? Love the videos!
HI Tim, of course the best way is to use clamping cauls to prevent indentations. If you think ahead you can use clamps in places that will get machined more so the indents get cut away.
If you have some you can steam them out. The wood is still there and it can be raised with moisture and heat. Think soldering iron or even clothing iron
Texas Toast Guitars thank you for the reply and the information. I’m thinking of doing my second bass build soon and love all the info and instruction. Keep up the great work!
Hey Matt!...was the body already finished thickness of 1 3/4 ?...I got a 1/4 flame maple top I'd like to add to a strat body would I need to router the body down a 1/4 inch to compensate for the top thickness?...or maybe take the top down to an 1/8 of inch ?..Id be afraid of chip out if I tried to plane down the body
Hi Gus,
I think you would want to remove some material the thickness sander is great for that as it won't chip out the existing body
I want to put in a second vote for Allen's idea, the upside down tilt back daily driver head stock, I think that would be cool
I'm going to see what that looks like but I am also kinds channeling the Gibson USA 1
Hmmmm that would work too
Excellent!
Glad you liked it Fred
Sully would be proud lol. Perfect
Was I wearing the Sully shirt in this video?
I don't think Jon watches my videos HAHAHA
Where did you get those type clamps at?
Those are very basic clamps from Harbor Freight
Great vid! I've been doing repairs for over 20 years and think it is finally time to venture into building... do you recommend the DIY kits as a place to start? And what minimum power tools do you recommend? I have PLENTY of hand tools... leveling blocks, fret files, etc.
Thanks for watching Daddy O'.
The DIY kits can be, surprisingly, not sucky. Do some homework and see what looks good. I'd start with the Tele one because even a lousy Tele sounds like a Tele.
You will need some power tools for sure. I'll do a video one day about tools. I'd say you need to have a jointer, a bandsaw and a router or 2 or 3
Texas Toast Guitars I'm fully prepared for trash tuners and pitiful pups... as long as the neck doesn't look like a skateboard ramp I think I will be fine. I've got a couple of routers, some sanders, and a drill press. Yes, that vid would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like you are off to a great start
Texas Toast Guitars now I just have to learn how to use them.....
got a video on chambering a tele
No but, that would be a really good video
Hi, nice vid!
what is the thickness of this maple top?
in your opinion, what is the maximum table thickness that can be bent in this way? What is the maximum angle of the bevel that can be covered in this way?
Hi Antoinie, You can do lots of stuff, the 1/8 top will bend pretty easily or you can add heat to help it along. I'm going to be doing a video soon where I bend a 1/4 top, stay tuned
@@TexasToastGuitars thx from France 😉
Nice job. Good luck with your channel mate! I'm sure to pick up some great tips here ;0)
Thanks for watching my friend, we will keep making the videos and see if we can bring you some good stuff.
Can I ask exactly which wood/combination you would recommend for the best stratocaster body? I'm looking to get a strat custom made. Thinking about ash with a maple cap. Any tips appreciated!!
I like ash and alder quite a bit
Love this English and Chinese version in one lol 😂
what?
Is there a cool translation program going on?
When gluing a veneer on like this, do you worry about how smoothly sanded the contact sides are when gluing?? Do you want the contact sides a little rougher? is 200grit enough or is higher grit or lower grit better for getting the best bond?
Both the body and the top came off the thickness sander and that has 60 grit on it. I wouldn't bother sanding any more that... even if you are using .024 veneers. I'll address that in a future video, that is a good topic
I like the warped speed....
Sounded like I was on trucker speed hahaha
tite bond 2 or 3 and why i use 3 and thinking about keepin both in the shop ,so i want your opinion as to which is best for which task thanks, Richard, RLX Guitars
I only use the Original Titebond. There are lots of reasons to use the other stuff but I don't think they are related to guitar building. The original is also the only aliphatic resin the others are some kind of cross link polymer or something else for water resistance... who knows.
You should use what you like amigo, that's what I do
Have a great week
@@TexasToastGuitars thank you Sir.
Do the contour after... and moisten it to make sure u dont break or crack it
This top was thin enough that moisture wasn't necessary. Actually, adding water to bend, even acoustic sides is pretty rare these days. I think every one has the bending machine and it is mostly heat that aids in bending. Back when I was doing side bending we didn't have one of those rigs and you had to add water or the iron would burn your wood all to hell.
Great video. Thanks for that.
Thanks for watching, glad to hear you enjoyed it
For the new top I thought you might steam it first. Any reason you don't?
The top will flex quite a bit when it is that thin. Once they get over 1/8 you might need to steam the wood or even cut groves in the back (if you are going to bind it) to get it to mold around the shape. Maybe I'll do a video about that some time?
I think I have a 1/4 top Daily Driver coming up.
I would have steamed the bend. It will always fight to be back in its original position otherwise.
Awe man I was hoping you would do a solid body strat with no plate on that pup.
We can do that too
Where do you get your veneer wood
We have stopped using veneer
awesome
Thanks Jose
I wonder how this crazy thing is done:
*Types it in search bar*
Oh, Texas Toast has a video on it
It's two years old already
Thanks for this explanation.
I'm thinking about doing hollow body Strat with that style of top just because no one has done it.
Well, I won't be surprised if you did
Glad I could help out Artur
Matt great vid Man, I have to message you on patreon (if I can figure out how)..
texastoastmatt@gmail works too my friend
I would definitely drink a beer with you
Clampet, Jed!
Just so y’know, the ‘amphetamined segment’ starts at 9:50-in. 🤣
I made my 1st Koa veneered non-reverse Firebird body and boy howdy, do I wish I’d’ve watched this video beforehand; still injecting air pockets with thinned glue in spots for reclamping.
I'll check it out
Did you use up all your dilithium crystals during warp speed through all that sexy clamping action!? Lol
A Strat 12 would look cool
That would be cool, of course, you know we have to use our own headstock... We were also thinking about a 12 string Challenger? We have lots of bodies ready to go just need to make a neck.
Why wouldn't you steam it first? Aren't you worried about stress cracking?
Hi Disco 58, I'm wasn't really worried about stress cracking on these because the wood was very thin and the curve was very gradual. Thanks for watching
Lowes - We're sorry, we couldn't find any results for "weenie roller"! However, they do carry a roller called the "WHIZZ", so there's that.
WHAT!
Maybe you have to go in and talk to the people at the paint counter. That would be a funny video too
Is "Bendy bit" a technical term?? jk great idea!
I make up words and terms all the time HAHAHA
misunderstood fancy clamps.. im now the owner of a bunch of fancy pants.
You know... that can happen
What it would sound like if Ben Shapiro made a guitar building video, the sped up part that is.
Ha, it probably would sound like that only that guy is much smarter and more well spoken than I am
I heard a crack sound when you clamped the contour side.
Then what happened
@@TexasToastGuitars it was my house's wood.
Air sucky outy thing made me think of an ex girlfriend lol
One thing i really hate, is when you have a capped strat, then someone routes all the channels on the front to add a pickguard.
I mean, you go all the way to have a great top then ruin it then hide it. Instead, ho duper strat with rear control cavity. Show off the wood, not ruin it.
We don't really understand it either... but will always give the customer what they want
If your serious about it call me on the landlines I can't tupe.
best technique? using superglue for everything! you may ask; "but 5hhhrrereeeder, how the hell do you use superglue without getting premature bonding? are you an idiot?" i would glue the non-bendy spot first, and then put glue down and bond the bendy part after it dries. clamps fly when using superglue properly though.
i just like superglue, i am not saying this is a good idea for everyone, results may vary, and normal wood glue works fine for almost every luthier application.
I often think about how you use super glue for everything... it crossed my mind while I was making this video
lol, i use epoxy sometimes... though epoxy seperates from things easy, and i had a fretboard delaminate in a spot while i was building one time because of it(which i fixed with superglue[of course] and a syringe). so, it is usually reserved for stuff like filling non-structurally crucial areas, such as filling the empty area between the trussrod and the wood.(it is more of a resin than glue in that application, since it isn't crucial that it sticks, and my trussrods have nickel plated sheaths, so they don't get ruined when i do this).
another fun glue though is foamless gorrila glue(it is a polyurethane glue), though, i like short cure times, so i only use it when it is crucial to have a long work time.
Whatever works
yup.
I would like to see it bound
hmmm binding could be cool
Natural binding of flamed maple looks cooler! It's a PAIN to do.
but
Matt is able to do all things
Never said he couldn't, I just said it was a pain to do. 😀 spraying colors is much easier than hand applying dyes/stains then clear. Challenge: Hand apply dyes leave natural binding.
I like the part where you turn into Ben Shapiro and start fitting clamps.
well good
Wheres monkey? You didnt give him a day off did ya?
That's not much of an arm contour, now is it? It almost flat. The arm contour of a Tom Anderson; now that IS an arm contour. Please do that and this video again.
Why don't you send an email to Tom Anderson and have him make you a video
@@TexasToastGuitars He already did, maybe take a look?