Thanks for the inquiry Will, Hard surface countertops typically meet food safe standards in their original manufactured condition. Most clear coats, particularly solvent-based coating, are not suitable for food prep. TileLab is an exceptional product for protecting tile showers or backsplash, but I would not recommend it for countertops where food is prepared.
Sorry Ann. Just to clarify, an inexpensive chip brush was used to apply TileLab Gloss Sealer on the left half of each example and TileLab Matte Sealer on the right half of each example. TileLab protects and enhances the appearance of tile, natural stone, and grout.
Ghostshield 16 oz. concrete countertop water and stain repellent Read the details page … “heat resistant” for hot pads and pans Solvent based, 6-hours dry time, 2 coats recommended You may have to order online Read details before ordering Hope this helps Pat InPaint
Thanks for posting the video Pat! I have travertine floors in my kitchen and I bought the tile lab sealer & finish with high gloss. What tools do I need if any to do it myself. I’ve never done this process before, but I hate how my floors look so flat after cleaning them. Any feedback you can provide would be very helpful.
Hi Juan Great question! Tile Lab high gloss will be very shiny … based upon your description, flat isn’t your preference. I use the least expensive brush but do not choose stiff nylon because they don’t spread as evenly as a softer natural bristle. You should find a 4-inch natural bristle next to the 2 & 3-inch chip brushes. Transfer about 2-inches of TileLab to a plastic mixing cup w a 4-5 inch mouth. Then dip the tips of your brush tip wet and go to your tile. Spread across the area until you have a thin wet surface, then move to the adjacent area and wet it. Do not try to spread super thin. Just flow-on a good coating. Once the whole area is coated, do not touch it again w the brush. Simply allow it to dry. And as it dries, the gloss will begin the show. Keep a cotton rag in your pocket and if you create a puddle, wipe it up. Puddles too deep will not dry all the way thru, capturing fluid that will look white under the dry surface. Hope this helps! Pat InPaint
I applied the sealer on my stone shower pan last night and it’s still sticky. Why is that? The weather is a bit cold and a lot of rain as well. Does the weather have anything to do with it being sticky still?
Good Day Afterburner, Thick applications can take several days to dry. Try putting a floor fan in that room for 1-2 days. The circulating air will help draw the moisture out of the surface. Thin coats added a day apart would be the usual path to a thicker coating. Just give it indirect air flow around the room and you should be ok. Hope this Helps. Pat InPaint
Hey mark_338 Great question. This particular product is primarily interior. But there are exterior versions. Check the label for the word Exterior which means it has Ultraviolet (UV) Light inhibitors. You can use these words in your search terms as well. Application Tip: On larger project, ppl tend to want to pour out their product and spread ... resist the urge! Use a stain pad, a 3/8 nap roller, or a brush to apply thin layers. Why: poured product tends to surface-dry capturing a fluid pocket which does not finish clear. It’s a mess to fix. Also: keep a cotton wiping cloth in your pocket and when you see puddling starting to occur wipe excess product and then get back to application. Hope this helps Pat InPaint
Hey Pat. Thanks for posting the video. I just installed a kitchen backsplash. The material is a combination of wood, marble and glass. I was thinking of of applying the tile lab sealer and finisher because I wanted it to have a shiny look. Any thoughts?
Thanks hai_lol31 Unfortunately the three materials, glass, wood, and marble, are not suitable for one sealer product. You May want to separate each section with tape and use traditional wood and traditional stone sealers. Glass may only need a periodic cleaning, but most sealers will bead up if applied to glass. Hope this helps, Pat InPaint
Hey @@LeoCampos2 Try this 511 Porous Plus sealer www.homedepot.com/p/Miracle-Sealants-511-1-Pt-Porous-Plus-PLUS-PT-SG/207164873#product-overview It is rated interior / exterior so UV light will not damage and it is rated for "All porous natural stone and other surfaces" Just follow the instructions on the container and you'll produce a durable clear coating. Hope this helps, Pat InPaint
Hi mcasti523 Unfortunately most sealers for porous stone and grout are not intended for glass. Using an applicator like a brush, you can work around the glass tile. Keep a clean cotton rag handy and immediately wipe off any overflow or drips onto the glass. If you were to have a drip and not wipe, it would dry and look like reflective wavy lines on the glass. Hope this helps! Pat InPaint
Thank Neshco Yes, water will reset and it will turn milky and then fail in large patches. What you need is a Marine polyurethane. It gonna be oil or solvent-based And marine supply stores like West Marine will carry it
Hey Neshco N. The product I demonstrate is only for periodic exposure to water. Products labeled w the word “Marine” are designed for immersion HD generally does not sell marine products.companies like. West Marine should have what you need Pat InPaint
Hey madpaddy73 Thanks for the great question! Two thin coats is preferred and you should wait 4-6 hours between coats. When too thick a coat is applied, in an effort to attain one coat coverage, the product creates drips and streaks.Take your time, apply the first coat, allow to dry 4-6 hours, and apply a final coat. Let dry 24-hours before putting into use. Hope that helps, Pat InPaint
So what do you recommend for a dry, installed slate that will hold up to the intense heat of a wood stove? Something that will bring out the colors of the slate and make the wipe-up of ashes a bit easier. Thank you.
S Phillips local codes require "set-off" between the stove and wall This air gap ensures heat transfer will not occur to a level that would not be safe. TileLab is suitable when the install is done correctly. I would expect to clean and recoat these stones every two years. Fire mortar might be used to ensue the joints and base don't crack.
Hey Pat Can I use this product on my ceramic floors ? Also I previously used Zep brand WAX from Home Depot but it peeled off after a few days what do you recommend me to use instead ?
Yes Paola plus4, This sealer is designed to embed into tile, stone, and grout so it will work in your application. NOTE: This product must directly contact the complete surface to absorb. If the wax is intact anywhere on that floor, you must use a stripping agent to remove the wax before proceeding. Review the label of the stripper about neutralizing that product after you strip and follow those instructions carefully before proceeding to sealer. Hope this helps! Pat InPaint
Good Day GeorgeBonanza! Porcelain tile is heat glazed and sealed. So the surface is very hard and repellent. The surrounding grout lines are porous and require sealer. Because the steps to seal each grout line would be tedious, I go ahead w sealer over the entire surface. Be careful to not flood sealer onto the ceramic tile. It will leave streak makes of clear sealant. I keep several terry towels or cotton tee shirts on hand and wipe the face of the tile to remove excess as a final step, immediately after application. If you look at an angle with a light, you’ll be able to see the buildup. Hope this helps! Pat InPaint
Hey JDK K, The product I demo is indoor only ... like all water clean up products, constant exposure to water is not recommended. There are solvent-based clear coats made for stone or tile that can be used outdoors. You’ll find solvent-based will be the most durable, but will also begin to turn yellow in 6-8 years. Water-based are not as durable, but will remain clear, and most often will not be labeled for outdoor use. Hope this helps, Pat InPaint
Great Question Paulie As with any sealer that repels, water will form droplets on the surface. If you’re moving rapidly over the surface and attempt to stop suddenly, you may feel a bit of slip beneath your feet. Just this week, I treated a tile shower. In that confined space, I haven’t slipped since applying two coats. The advantage I’ve gained is the tile and grout will not absorb soap residue or dirt rinsed off in the shower. Like most repairs, you gain something and give up something else. Since application, I have been a bit more cautious. But, for me, the benefit of fresh, clean tile outweighs the slight possibility of a slip. If I were caring for an older family member, I would likely seal and then add self-adhesive traction strips. Hope this helps, Pat InPaint
I asked Rust-Oleum if I could use their Tub and Tile transformation kit on my kitchen counter and they said it would work just fine. The only thing is that the Tub and Tile transformation kit lacks the anti-microbial protection built in to their Kitchen Countertop Transformation kit. I'm wondering if I could apply this tile sealer in the video to my transformed kitchen countertop--is it safe to use where food is prepared? Thanks!
What's your favorite application technique Chris? TileLab says, "You can use a smooth sponge, brush, or paint pad." The two hour dry-time allows the sealer to self-level. But in a very hot room (80-degree Fahrenheit or more) your dry-time will be much less and streaking could occur. Personally, I've always used a brush because it picks up and releases TileLab sealer generously ... like you see in the video.
Thanks for the feedback Manuel Bover, Have another look ... from 3:37 til 4:02 is a feature of the finished Gloss on the left and Matte on the right. It starts w the small tile and pans to the larger piece. If you look, you’ll see the hi-sheen on the left and no-sheen on the right. What’s best about these products is they prevent mildew from embedding in the grout or on the tile. But every two-years you must thoroughly clean, rinse, and allow to dry before your next treatment. Use two coats and allow the first coat to dry before spreading the second. Hope This Helps! Pat InPaint
Thanks for the inquiry Will,
Hard surface countertops typically meet food safe standards in their original manufactured condition. Most clear coats, particularly solvent-based coating, are not suitable for food prep. TileLab is an exceptional product for protecting tile showers or backsplash, but I would not recommend it for countertops where food is prepared.
Sorry Ann. Just to clarify, an inexpensive chip brush was used to apply TileLab Gloss Sealer on the left half of each example and TileLab Matte Sealer on the right half of each example. TileLab protects and enhances the appearance of tile, natural stone, and grout.
He did awesome thank you
I wanted to use this sealer on a concrete counter top. Does anyone know if this is a heat resistant. If I put a hot fry pan it will damage the coat ?
Ghostshield
16 oz. concrete countertop water and stain repellent
Read the details page … “heat resistant” for hot pads and pans
Solvent based, 6-hours dry time, 2 coats recommended
You may have to order online
Read details before ordering
Hope this helps
Pat InPaint
Thanks for posting the video Pat! I have travertine floors in my kitchen and I bought the tile lab sealer & finish with high gloss. What tools do I need if any to do it myself. I’ve never done this process before, but I hate how my floors look so flat after cleaning them. Any feedback you can provide would be very helpful.
Hi Juan
Great question!
Tile Lab high gloss will be very shiny … based upon your description, flat isn’t your preference. I use the least expensive brush but do not choose stiff nylon because they don’t spread as evenly as a softer natural bristle. You should find a 4-inch natural bristle next to the 2 & 3-inch chip brushes.
Transfer about 2-inches of TileLab to a plastic mixing cup w a 4-5 inch mouth. Then dip the tips of your brush tip wet and go to your tile. Spread across the area until you have a thin wet surface, then move to the adjacent area and wet it. Do not try to spread super thin. Just flow-on a good coating. Once the whole area is coated, do not touch it again w the brush. Simply allow it to dry. And as it dries, the gloss will begin the show. Keep a cotton rag in your pocket and if you create a puddle, wipe it up. Puddles too deep will not dry all the way thru, capturing fluid that will look white under the dry surface.
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
I applied the sealer on my stone shower pan last night and it’s still sticky. Why is that? The weather is a bit cold and a lot of rain as well. Does the weather have anything to do with it being sticky still?
Good Day Afterburner,
Thick applications can take several days to dry. Try putting a floor fan in that room for 1-2 days. The circulating air will help draw the moisture out of the surface. Thin coats added a day apart would be the usual path to a thicker coating. Just give it indirect air flow around the room and you should be ok.
Hope this Helps.
Pat InPaint
Thank you this was super helpful!
TY Christopher!
My goal is to give you the solution that gives you the best chance for success on the first try.
Thanks for the feedback!
Pat InPaint
Will this work for out door, natural rock slab patios?
Hey mark_338
Great question.
This particular product is primarily interior. But there are exterior versions. Check the label for the word Exterior which means it has Ultraviolet (UV) Light inhibitors. You can use these words in your search terms as well.
Application Tip: On larger project, ppl tend to want to pour out their product and spread ... resist the urge! Use a stain pad, a 3/8 nap roller, or a brush to apply thin layers. Why: poured product tends to surface-dry capturing a fluid pocket which does not finish clear. It’s a mess to fix. Also: keep a cotton wiping cloth in your pocket and when you see puddling starting to occur wipe excess product and then get back to application.
Hope this helps
Pat InPaint
Pat InPaint thank you for the reply
Hey Pat. Thanks for posting the video. I just installed a kitchen backsplash. The material is a combination of wood, marble and glass. I was thinking of of applying the tile lab sealer and finisher because I wanted it to have a shiny look. Any thoughts?
Thanks hai_lol31
Unfortunately the three materials, glass, wood, and marble, are not suitable for one sealer product. You May want to separate each section with tape and use traditional wood and traditional stone sealers. Glass may only need a periodic cleaning, but most sealers will bead up if applied to glass.
Hope this helps,
Pat InPaint
@@patinpaint746 which product I can apply to a marble porous wall?
Hey @@LeoCampos2
Try this 511 Porous Plus sealer www.homedepot.com/p/Miracle-Sealants-511-1-Pt-Porous-Plus-PLUS-PT-SG/207164873#product-overview
It is rated interior / exterior so UV light will not damage and it is rated for "All porous natural stone and other surfaces"
Just follow the instructions on the container and you'll produce a durable clear coating.
Hope this helps,
Pat InPaint
I have glass tiles that have some stone tile mixed in and I want to seal the stone tiles for sure...what happens if I get it on the glass tiles ?
Hi mcasti523
Unfortunately most sealers for porous stone and grout are not intended for glass. Using an applicator like a brush, you can work around the glass tile. Keep a clean cotton rag handy and immediately wipe off any overflow or drips onto the glass. If you were to have a drip and not wipe, it would dry and look like reflective wavy lines on the glass.
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
Would that work on a water fountain or the water will wash it away???
Thank Neshco
Yes, water will reset and it will turn milky and then fail in large patches.
What you need is a Marine polyurethane. It gonna be oil or solvent-based And marine supply stores like West Marine will carry it
Thanks, nothing similar at home depot.??
What about wet look lacker??
Hey Neshco N.
The product I demonstrate is only for periodic exposure to water. Products labeled w the word “Marine” are designed for immersion HD generally does not sell marine products.companies like. West Marine should have what you need
Pat InPaint
hi pat is it recommended to apply a second coat or is one fine ? thanks
Hey madpaddy73
Thanks for the great question!
Two thin coats is preferred and you should wait 4-6 hours between coats. When too thick a coat is applied, in an effort to attain one coat coverage, the product creates drips and streaks.Take your time, apply the first coat, allow to dry 4-6 hours, and apply a final coat. Let dry 24-hours before putting into use.
Hope that helps,
Pat InPaint
So what do you recommend for a dry, installed slate that will hold up to the intense heat of a wood stove? Something that will bring out the colors of the slate and make the wipe-up of ashes a bit easier.
Thank you.
S Phillips local codes require "set-off" between the stove and wall This air gap ensures heat transfer will not occur to a level that would not be safe. TileLab is suitable when the install is done correctly. I would expect to clean and recoat these stones every two years. Fire mortar might be used to ensue the joints and base don't crack.
Hey Pat
Can I use this product on my ceramic floors ?
Also I previously used Zep brand WAX from Home Depot but it peeled off after a few days what do you recommend me to use instead ?
Yes Paola plus4,
This sealer is designed to embed into tile, stone, and grout so it will work in your application. NOTE: This product must directly contact the complete surface to absorb. If the wax is intact anywhere on that floor, you must use a stripping agent to remove the wax before proceeding. Review the label of the stripper about neutralizing that product after you strip and follow those instructions carefully before proceeding to sealer. Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
Will this work on porcelain tile?
Good Day GeorgeBonanza! Porcelain tile is heat glazed and sealed. So the surface is very hard and repellent. The surrounding grout lines are porous and require sealer. Because the steps to seal each grout line would be tedious, I go ahead w sealer over the entire surface. Be careful to not flood sealer onto the ceramic tile. It will leave streak makes of clear sealant. I keep several terry towels or cotton tee shirts on hand and wipe the face of the tile to remove excess as a final step, immediately after application. If you look at an angle with a light, you’ll be able to see the buildup. Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
Outdoor indoor???????
Hey JDK K,
The product I demo is indoor only ... like all water clean up products, constant exposure to water is not recommended. There are solvent-based clear coats made for stone or tile that can be used outdoors. You’ll find solvent-based will be the most durable, but will also begin to turn yellow in 6-8 years. Water-based are not as durable, but will remain clear, and most often will not be labeled for outdoor use.
Hope this helps,
Pat InPaint
does it leave the tile slippery ?
Great Question Paulie
As with any sealer that repels, water will form droplets on the surface. If you’re moving rapidly over the surface and attempt to stop suddenly, you may feel a bit of slip beneath your feet. Just this week, I treated a tile shower. In that confined space, I haven’t slipped since applying two coats. The advantage I’ve gained is the tile and grout will not absorb soap residue or dirt rinsed off in the shower. Like most repairs, you gain something and give up something else. Since application, I have been a bit more cautious. But, for me, the benefit of fresh, clean tile outweighs the slight possibility of a slip. If I were caring for an older family member, I would likely seal and then add self-adhesive traction strips. Hope this helps,
Pat InPaint
I asked Rust-Oleum if I could use their Tub and Tile transformation kit on my kitchen counter and they said it would work just fine. The only thing is that the Tub and Tile transformation kit lacks the anti-microbial protection built in to their Kitchen Countertop Transformation kit. I'm wondering if I could apply this tile sealer in the video to my transformed kitchen countertop--is it safe to use where food is prepared? Thanks!
If you apply this product with a brush... you deserve what you get. NEVER apply with a brush. Unless you just love streaks.
What's your favorite application technique Chris?
TileLab says, "You can use a smooth sponge, brush, or paint pad." The two hour dry-time allows the sealer to self-level. But in a very hot room (80-degree Fahrenheit or more) your dry-time will be much less and streaking could occur. Personally, I've always used a brush because it picks up and releases TileLab sealer generously ... like you see in the video.
it's a little difficult to see what he's doing and the tile is looking cause he doesn't get the damn yellow bucket out of the way
That video sucked You barely show the Finish product. What about the small tile You never showed it 👎
Thanks for the feedback Manuel Bover,
Have another look ... from 3:37 til 4:02 is a feature of the finished Gloss on the left and Matte on the right. It starts w the small tile and pans to the larger piece. If you look, you’ll see the hi-sheen on the left and no-sheen on the right. What’s best about these products is they prevent mildew from embedding in the grout or on the tile. But every two-years you must thoroughly clean, rinse, and allow to dry before your next treatment. Use two coats and allow the first coat to dry before spreading the second.
Hope This Helps!
Pat InPaint
crappy product, crappy application
there s my constructive criticism
Of Course CheekyMonkey888,
And beauty is in the eye of the beholder ... Or not!?!
Thanks for checking in
Pat InPaint