I religiously test (beat the crap out of) WA-2K #3 on a daily basis, no complaints other than my alternator official hates me now. Got a pair of rebuild kits for them so I can add dual alternators since there is no high output model available anywhere and 110 amps (rated new) is not cutting it sitting in traffic at night. After nearly one year, I've yet to ever feel the amplifier very warm, stays ambient from what I can tell. Must've gotten a good one, lol. Just a suggestion...with your 3ft 4ga terminated ground cable, I'd think a ferrule could be offered with the package to complete it very nicely. Thanks again Joe🦾
@@DustmanDiagnostics Yes, they are tough amps! I like the ferrule idea. I’ll include a black 4ga ferrule with each ground wire. I need to change the listing to show that, but in the meantime I’ll include one anyway. Thanks Dustin!
@DustmanDiagnostics- A 110 Amp "Rated" alternator, prob. Only does about 60 to 70 Amps @ idle. So 2 should get you about 120 to 140 Amps @ idle, which will be enough, as Long as your amp is wired @ 1 ohm, or higher. With impedance rise you probably are only pulling 50 amps to 100 amps max, on music.
Yes I agree absolutely. Power + and ground - are extremely important for reliable car audio operation. There is no such animal as too much ground. I run a 4 ought marine grade copper battery cable to ground my engine to the frame and also the battery. This is a major help in cold weather starting. It also helps the starter motor to last much longer. Eliminating starter drag even with an old battery. I lived 12 years in Michigan's Upper Peninsula with tons of snow and ice every winter. At -40 degrees below 0 F. it makes a huge difference between being late to work or on time. I also run a awg 2 marine copper from the battery to the sheet metal . Marine copper battery cable is tinned copper wire and is corrosion resistant and carries a heavy amp load with ease. It crimps well and it soldiers well as well if you have a hot enough soldiering gun. I like Ancor brand marine copper battery cable as its a top notch product and its also UV light resistant. Most car audio wire kits use copper coated aluminum wire. So you have to shop hard to find 100% legit copper wire. I don't know of any of the car audio wire kits that uses UV resistant cable. Good quality cable is something you will pay for; but much better service and your amplifiers will perform far better and run cooler too. Amp wiring is a vital part of any amplified car audio system. Cutting corners on a wiring install isn't smart. Also all positive (+) must be fuse protected at the battery for safety. I typically run dedicated power cables from the battery to each individual amplifier. Makes trouble shooting when a problem shows up, a lot easier. Each cable is fused at the battery. Thats just my way of doing things. I also run dedicated and fused cables to my amateur radio gear too. Great video as always and 73 GOD bless Earnest K5EWM.
@@earnestmatlock9694 Earnest, I always enjoy your comments! Yes, I completely agree. Once upon a time, I didn’t understand the importance of good wiring myself. I just shake my head when I remember how I had some of my stuff wired back in the day. It’s shocking, some of the things I see when I meet with people from Marketplace. They’re usually really nice, but they just don’t know any better. I try to steer them in the right direction the best I can. Thanks again!!
When I got the ferrules, I did have to go and order the ones for 10 gauge. I know that's kind of small for subs but I needed them temporary because of one of those crazy events I tend to run into 😅.
@@stereomojoI know you’re asking Jimmy, but I would be interested and seeing it drop down to 12.8 and 12.6 the lowest. That’s the lowest mine has dropped.
Sadly, during some particularly harsh demos, my voltage has dipped to 10.9. I'm sure it has gone even lower, but my truck shut off at that point and was unable to capture the live reading when it did. Didn't notice any loss of output nor did the clip indicator flicker, just pulled everything the alternator had and whatever the 980CCA battery had to offer as well. His original WA=2K dyno run showing 270 amps of current being pulled was not a joke!
@@johnmedrano9782 thanks! Yes, that’s definitely a possibility. I can’t see anything obvious inside it. It transformer gets pretty hot, pretty quick though.
@StereoMoJo- Very nice Amplifier package. Metal bass knob, w/clip light, on a 2k, @ a very good price= Awesome😎. Not to mention you testing them before being shipped out, from now on= Who does that,= Welsh Audio does that🎉!
it's always amazed me how some people will spend a fortune on huge power cable then use a dinky little wire for the ground and then wonder why their amps over heats or burn up also back in the day a long long time ago when i used to do the car audio thing it didn't matter if it was a low end clarion or a high end alpine unit, every piece of hardware i sold was pre-tested by me so that way if there was a bad one my supplier couldn't claim the customer messed it up when i wanted to return it....pre-testing is a quality guarantying sales feature....
I really like the fuse holder and crimped ground wire ready to go. Also it’s probably a good idea to test every amp so that you’re covered at least on your end. Jp just made a video talking about how so many of his customers send Jp amps back to him for warranty and how he believes most of them are due to user error but then again he sounds a little like a salty ex girlfriend the way he’s complaining about multiple issues but I’m sure your situation is slightly different.
User error, id put money on it. Most people have no idea what they are doing. You shouldn't use eBay, you have zero protection as a seller. Common sense isn't so common anymore, unfortunately. Maybe tossing in some instructions would help inexperienced people hook it up correctly. I love what you're doing, building your brand. Pretty badarse.
@@CrystalClearSQL thanks so much! Yeah, that’s something that I’ve worried about all year. I’m surprised it hasn’t happened more. Thanks for the support!
I religiously test (beat the crap out of) WA-2K #3 on a daily basis, no complaints other than my alternator official hates me now. Got a pair of rebuild kits for them so I can add dual alternators since there is no high output model available anywhere and 110 amps (rated new) is not cutting it sitting in traffic at night. After nearly one year, I've yet to ever feel the amplifier very warm, stays ambient from what I can tell. Must've gotten a good one, lol. Just a suggestion...with your 3ft 4ga terminated ground cable, I'd think a ferrule could be offered with the package to complete it very nicely. Thanks again Joe🦾
@@DustmanDiagnostics Yes, they are tough amps! I like the ferrule idea. I’ll include a black 4ga ferrule with each ground wire. I need to change the listing to show that, but in the meantime I’ll include one anyway. Thanks Dustin!
@DustmanDiagnostics- A 110 Amp "Rated" alternator, prob. Only does about 60 to 70 Amps @ idle. So 2 should get you about 120 to 140 Amps @ idle, which will be enough, as Long as your amp is wired @ 1 ohm, or higher. With impedance rise you probably are only pulling 50 amps to 100 amps max, on music.
Yes I agree absolutely. Power + and ground - are extremely important for reliable car audio operation. There is no such animal as too much ground. I run a 4 ought marine grade copper battery cable to ground my engine to the frame and also the battery. This is a major help in cold weather starting. It also helps the starter motor to last much longer. Eliminating starter drag even with an old battery. I lived 12 years in Michigan's Upper Peninsula with tons of snow and ice every winter. At -40 degrees below 0 F. it makes a huge difference between being late to work or on time.
I also run a awg 2 marine copper from the battery to the sheet metal . Marine copper battery cable is tinned copper wire and is corrosion resistant and carries a heavy amp load with ease. It crimps well and it soldiers well as well if you have a hot enough soldiering gun. I like Ancor brand marine copper battery cable as its a top notch product and its also UV light resistant. Most car audio wire kits use copper coated aluminum wire. So you have to shop hard to find 100% legit copper wire. I don't know of any of the car audio wire kits that uses UV resistant cable. Good quality cable is something you will pay for; but much better service and your amplifiers will perform far better and run cooler too.
Amp wiring is a vital part of any amplified car audio system. Cutting corners on a wiring install isn't smart.
Also all positive (+) must be fuse protected at the battery for safety.
I typically run dedicated power cables from the battery to each individual amplifier. Makes trouble shooting when a problem shows up, a lot easier. Each cable is fused at the battery.
Thats just my way of doing things. I also run dedicated and fused cables to my amateur radio gear too.
Great video as always and 73 GOD bless Earnest K5EWM.
@@earnestmatlock9694 Earnest, I always enjoy your comments! Yes, I completely agree. Once upon a time, I didn’t understand the importance of good wiring myself. I just shake my head when I remember how I had some of my stuff wired back in the day. It’s shocking, some of the things I see when I meet with people from Marketplace. They’re usually really nice, but they just don’t know any better. I try to steer them in the right direction the best I can. Thanks again!!
Oh nice to see who is selling those on eBay I will definitely buy from you and you got new subscriber keep the good work and honesty 👍
@@georgecampos7119 that’s awesome! Thanks George!
I've used a black permanent marker on the red ferrules before. It's a quick easy solution until your black ones come in.
@@timwheeler1503 good idea!
Kool stuff.. I would like to see a tooth lock washer on the ground kit. Provides a little bit of bite into the where to ground it.
Hey buddy, just bought 10 of your 8 guage ferrells frome ya! Lookin' forward to many more purchases. 👍🏻
Nice. 👍🏻
Fine stuff sir
@@brockmarquis8511 thanks Brock!
Love the vids !
@@phila8160 thanks Phil!
When I got the ferrules, I did have to go and order the ones for 10 gauge. I know that's kind of small for subs but I needed them temporary because of one of those crazy events I tend to run into 😅.
@@barnes29510 yes, I use 10ga as well
Definitely will be buying a amp now. If I grab one of those Menace Audio amps how can I send it to you?
@@BigMerc91CMDNJ shoot me an email stereomojo@yahoo.com
Wish you would do another amp dyno on the welsh amp at lower voltage just to see what it will do. Thanks for all the great videos. Really, enjoy them
@@jimmybarrett-sw8vt thanks Jimmy! At what voltage?
@@stereomojoI know you’re asking Jimmy, but I would be interested and seeing it drop down to 12.8 and 12.6 the lowest. That’s the lowest mine has dropped.
Sadly, during some particularly harsh demos, my voltage has dipped to 10.9. I'm sure it has gone even lower, but my truck shut off at that point and was unable to capture the live reading when it did. Didn't notice any loss of output nor did the clip indicator flicker, just pulled everything the alternator had and whatever the 980CCA battery had to offer as well. His original WA=2K dyno run showing 270 amps of current being pulled was not a joke!
@stereomojo just something more realistic voltage like start at 13.8 and do the dyno instead of 14.8
@@DustmanDiagnostics Thanks Dustin!
Would you be able to open up the defective amp and show us the gut shot? Nice install stuff you are offering
@@johnmedrano9782 thanks! Yes, that’s definitely a possibility. I can’t see anything obvious inside it. It transformer gets pretty hot, pretty quick though.
@StereoMoJo- Very nice Amplifier package. Metal bass knob, w/clip light, on a 2k, @ a very good price= Awesome😎. Not to mention you testing them before being shipped out, from now on= Who does that,= Welsh Audio does that🎉!
it's always amazed me how some people will spend a fortune on huge power cable then use a dinky little wire for the ground and then wonder why their amps over heats or burn up also back in the day a long long time ago when i used to do the car audio thing it didn't matter if it was a low end clarion or a high end alpine unit, every piece of hardware i sold was pre-tested by me so that way if there was a bad one my supplier couldn't claim the customer messed it up when i wanted to return it....pre-testing is a quality guarantying sales feature....
@@abruptlyblunt yes, that’s right!
I really like the fuse holder and crimped ground wire ready to go. Also it’s probably a good idea to test every amp so that you’re covered at least on your end. Jp just made a video talking about how so many of his customers send Jp amps back to him for warranty and how he believes most of them are due to user error but then again he sounds a little like a salty ex girlfriend the way he’s complaining about multiple issues but I’m sure your situation is slightly different.
@@RomaVilla thanks Roma!
Algorithm comment 💪
@@Stoneman1971 thanks Allen!
User error, id put money on it. Most people have no idea what they are doing. You shouldn't use eBay, you have zero protection as a seller. Common sense isn't so common anymore, unfortunately. Maybe tossing in some instructions would help inexperienced people hook it up correctly. I love what you're doing, building your brand. Pretty badarse.
@@CrystalClearSQL thanks so much! Yeah, that’s something that I’ve worried about all year. I’m surprised it hasn’t happened more. Thanks for the support!
Algorithm
@@Special.Purpose.Weapon thanks WD!