This was an excellent video. Your speaking is clear and your image quality is excellent. I have used a 206RB-1 for years and did not know these adjustments.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge to the world. These are great durable machines. I have one and. I can confirm it is amazing machine for a lifetime. Keep it well serviced. Blessings
Awesome tutorial. Purchased this machine used in great condition a few years back. It's been sitting waiting for me to make leather arrow quiver+. I don't feel the need to review instruction manual based on your video. Kudos!!!
Hi there! I just got a very same machine like this one, looks like brand new. The problem with it is, the hand wheel won’t turn, clutch is engaged like it should. It seems that the problem is the upper part of machine that is no moving. I oiled every part of it hoping it will unfreeze but, not happening. I really hope to hear from you and guide me through this problem. I really appreciate your layman explanation and knowledge about sewing machines!
Try removing the drive belt from the motor to the handwheel. Then oil all the points, and let it sit overnight. I've never found one that I couldn't eventually brake loose. Look for any rusty or seized parts under the machine. Good luck!
You articulate very precisely. My 206RB-5 is a beast on canvas, am I wasting my time trying to set it up for light fabric? My Pfaff 360 is what I have been using for quilt making, but parts are getting hard to find.
Your hunch is correct, the 206rb excels with canvas, vinyl, leather, or upholstery weight fabrics. It doesn't perform that well with materials thinner than denim. Thin cotton t-shirt material or silk would tend to bunch and gather. I love using a walking foot for sewing pillows or chair cushions, and they do great for that. Good luck with your projects!
2:35 And that is what I am dealing with, the thread has too much slack then it twists and wraps around the thread controller and stops my progress. Thanks for your help👌
I've had that problem with outdoor thread. It has a lot of memory like fishing line. Maybe experimenting with different threads, or a slight adjustment to the thread controller spring will help. Hope you get it perfectly dialed in.
206RB is a fine machine. I prefer the Singer 211A models but the Consew is a great machine. Unlike the 211A's, it seems the upper and lower shafts on the 206 are geared together and it's not necessary to check for slippage as on the 211. I also like the Juki LU-563 as a strong vintage machine but it seems to me the Juki needs more oil than the singers or consews?
I know bugger all about sewing machines, but when I buy garlic, it comes in a "thread sock". I hope nobody is paying actual money to buy those! Thanks for the video. I'm looking to buy one of these Consew (Seiko) machines, albeit with a different badge...
Hello there Mr. Sandry. I am really thankful for finding your channel. I just obtained a 206rb-2 head only. Oddly, it seems to have two different kinds of hinge post . Looking down from top of the machine, the left hinge post has a large gap that would seem to go into a table top hinge. The right one has a shorter post and the gap is about 1/4 the size of the left post. Is this normal or is something wrong with the posts? They are both molded into the frame of the machine. I cannot remove them. Thank you for your generous videos !!!
Sounds like you have a mismatched hinge set. They'll pull out of the head with pliers and some penetrating oil. Might just need to buy new hinges on eBay. Best to you.
This video was absolutely perfect, I've recently found an abundance of thread wrapped around the lower wheel, I think it was on there to increase the diameter to make my belt have enough tension. Have you ever seen anything like that? Once the thread was removed there's not enough tension on the belt to wind the bobbin, would a good solution be a new belt?
Very common for thread to get wrapped around a pulley. Just loosen two screws and adjust the bobbin winder closer to the belt. Sometimes you have to drill new holes if there's not enough adjustment. Thanks.
Hi. Do you have a video that shows the replacement of the presser foot lever? I just bought a used 206rb1 and there is no lever so I only have the knee lifter for now. Ordered the lever and trying to find a guide on how to put it on. Thanks.
Hi Samantha. Unfortunately, I don't have a video like that. I don't have a 206rb in the shop right now, otherwise I'd try to give you some pointers. I know I've replaced them in the past, and I don't remember it being overly complicated. Replacing the take-up lever is a week long job, but the presser foot lifting lever shouldn't be too bad. Best of luck with it!
Hi Barbara! Check out this video at the 2:15 mark... th-cam.com/video/v2QdIKrK_xI/w-d-xo.html it shows the adjustments on a Juki LU-563 but they're very similar on a 206RB model. Just back off the foot pressure a bit. If it's very delicate leather, sometimes you have to switch to a smooth bottom foot (no serrations under the foot). Best to you.
Do you know what year this specific model machine came out? I'm just curious because I work with one and I haven't been able to find the info on Google. Thanks for the videos!
You can likely adjust this by loosening the set screws in the handle and repositioning it. It doesn't really matter though, if you install / remove the bobbin when the take up lever is at the top position. Best.
Can you help? I cannot get any stitches created. Have rethreaded upper and bobbin. Changed needles. No apparent issue with tension. I did find the machine had been used - thread was shredded and left incompletely threaded. What else should I look at? I inherited the machine and needing to teach myself. Any assistance is appreciated. Thx much.
Hi Terry, make sure it's the correct 135-17 needle system and the correct size for the thread you're using. Also make sure the needle is inserted into the needle bar fully. Needle groove needs to be on the left, and needle skarf on the right. Bobbin case clicked in correctly? All this assumes the feed dog moves when you rotate the handwheel by hand. If not, could be a tripped safety clutch. Good luck troubleshooting.
Thank you for your advice as I was able to make the proper adjustment to allow the walking foot to not leave marks on my leather using my Consew 202 rb. You are so knowledge about the Consew and I am a beginner if you could help me with another issue. I am sewing patches onto leather vests and I can't seem to follow the outer contour of the patch due to the fact that the walking foot covers up the patch edge where I need to sew. I can’t see when to turn my material to make a change in direction. Can I get a different walking foot so I can actually see where the needle is on the outline of the patch? TIA
Hi Barbara, I'm assuming you're currently using a standard foot set or a cording foot. If you switch to a zipper foot, it gives a lot better visibility. They have right and left zipper foot options, and I would add both to your collection. EBay is a good place to find them. Thanks for the kind words! Best to you.
First make sure that you start your back tack when the needle is all the way down, then handwheel rolled towards you to raise the needle slightly. That is the best chance for falling into the same holes. If it needs to be adjusted on an early 206rb model (not rb-5) you can read about it here... leatherworker.net/forum/topic/71462-adjusting-forward-and-reverse-stitch-on-consew-206rb3/ loosen two screws to make the adjustment.
The Consew 206rb line up is 1 -5 but the plate on mine just says 206rb so is there a 206rb, 206rb1, +2345 so ther are 6 machines or is the 206rb considered 206rb-1? Mine is different than yours it does not have the oil tank and window underneath that yours has or the wick tray under the top cover. Any ideas ?
Hi Michael, There were 206rb models and 206rb-1 models, both of which were pretty much identical. At some point in the manufacturing timeline they added "semi-automatic" lubrication which included the small oil tank under the machine to lubricate the hook, and a system of oil wicks under the top cover plate. Best to you, and enjoy your machine.
The listed spec for the 206RB-1 max stitch length is about 7mm or 3.5-4 spi. If your limiters are set incorrectly, it might not be quite that long of a stitch. Definitely not as long as the RB-5, but I never need a 10mm stitch length! It's actually not a very strong seam. Best.
Mine didn't have a divot or oil well there. Some models it's taken care of with wicks and the other ports. Never a bad idea to manually lube articulations. Good comment!
I consider the functional max to be 138 thread. If you make modifications it might do more. I usually use 92 weight thread for upholstery, and that sews great with stock upholstery machines. Thanks.
Hi, great vids! I have the same machine, I need to slow it down for doing motorcycle seats with marine vinyl and piping. I'm thinking I need a servo motor...do you have any recommendations or tips on that? Thanks, Jeff
Those types of servo motors don't have any torque, you can hold them from turning with your hand; brushless servos are much better and have a great deal of torque@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker
Well, it depends on your overall setup. I use a brush style servo with a box style pulley reducer and it would sew through plywood. Plus, I like the way these brush style motors start slowly, compared to most brushless motors. I've had some good brushless motors, but I've also had some bad ones that started fast regardless how you programmed them. Probably lots of factors in determining which motor is right for you. @@migelikali7265
These old machines are very very over rated. Yes they can sew almost everything but you need to be a pro to operate them. User friendliness is at level 0, basically you need to know all of the adjustments and tricks to operate them.
Well they have the same number of adjustments as modern machines, and you need to know all of them to be proficient. Really the only thing that's easier on a modern walking foot is the oiling. Put a servo motor on an old Consew or Juki, and I'm happy as a clam.
Sewing and making anything a steep learning curve. I would say the old needle feeders are underrated. If you have the skill and knowledge you can make incredible things. Check any high-end upholstery shop and see what machines they use to make a 10k auto interior. Then check any small mom and pop shop. They're able to make 10k interiors, too, with the same machines. I worked a few years in a factory that made outdoor furniture cushions. I was the mechanic for 80 of this type needle feeder. There is a reason.
This was an excellent video. Your speaking is clear and your image quality is excellent. I have used a 206RB-1 for years and did not know these adjustments.
You made adjustments a lot easier, more precise and quicker. Thanks a bunch!! Especially equalizing the height of the presser feet.
Thanks Gary! Hope your machine is running like a champ.
I’ve been sewing upholstery a few years now your videos helped me through a couple of my problems. Thank you.
That's great James! I'm no expert sewing projects, but I can usually get a machine up and running. Thanks.
Excellent video. Thank you!
My pleasure! Thanks for checking out the video.
Best
Thank you for sharing your knowledge to the world. These are great durable machines. I have one and. I can confirm it is amazing machine for a lifetime. Keep it well serviced. Blessings
Awesome tutorial. Purchased this machine used in great condition a few years back. It's been sitting waiting for me to make leather arrow quiver+. I don't feel the need to review instruction manual based on your video. Kudos!!!
That's excellent! Enjoy the new machine.
Thank you for a great video. I just bought a used machine this week and your video gave me the confidence to get it oiled up and ready to go!
That's great Susan! Enjoy the new machine.
Very GOOD, you're under paid.
Thanks!
Thank you very much for your advice! I’m just going to let the oil soak in for a couple of days.
thank you for getting back to me so soon ,,, great video ,,,too,,,,,
Thank you So Much for the GREAT TUTORIAL of maintenence and adjustments! Great lesson!!!
Thanks Nick! Have a great weekend.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworkercomo le sgo psrs ssbrt rl precio
Hi there! I just got a very same machine like this one, looks like brand new. The problem with it is, the hand wheel won’t turn, clutch is engaged like it should. It seems that the problem is the upper part of machine that is no moving. I oiled every part of it hoping it will unfreeze but, not happening. I really hope to hear from you and guide me through this problem. I really appreciate your layman explanation and knowledge about sewing machines!
Try removing the drive belt from the motor to the handwheel. Then oil all the points, and let it sit overnight. I've never found one that I couldn't eventually brake loose. Look for any rusty or seized parts under the machine. Good luck!
You articulate very precisely. My 206RB-5 is a beast on canvas, am I wasting my time trying to set it up for light fabric? My Pfaff 360 is what I have been using for quilt making, but parts are getting hard to find.
Your hunch is correct, the 206rb excels with canvas, vinyl, leather, or upholstery weight fabrics. It doesn't perform that well with materials thinner than denim. Thin cotton t-shirt material or silk would tend to bunch and gather. I love using a walking foot for sewing pillows or chair cushions, and they do great for that. Good luck with your projects!
Very interesting informative video. Blessings
Thanks for checking out the video!
2:35 And that is what I am dealing with, the thread has too much slack then it twists and wraps around the thread controller and stops my progress. Thanks for your help👌
I've had that problem with outdoor thread. It has a lot of memory like fishing line. Maybe experimenting with different threads, or a slight adjustment to the thread controller spring will help. Hope you get it perfectly dialed in.
206RB is a fine machine. I prefer the Singer 211A models but the Consew is a great machine. Unlike the 211A's, it seems the upper and lower shafts on the 206 are geared together and it's not necessary to check for slippage as on the 211. I also like the Juki LU-563 as a strong vintage machine but it seems to me the Juki needs more oil than the singers or consews?
That's funny you mention the LU-563 because that's my primary machine. Love that big U style bobbin!
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker We love ours too. It's a tank.
I know bugger all about sewing machines, but when I buy garlic, it comes in a "thread sock". I hope nobody is paying actual money to buy those! Thanks for the video. I'm looking to buy one of these Consew (Seiko) machines, albeit with a different badge...
They are good machines. And thread socks have saved the day for me more than once!
Hello there Mr. Sandry.
I am really thankful for finding your channel. I just obtained a 206rb-2 head only. Oddly, it seems to have two different kinds of hinge post . Looking down from top of the machine, the left hinge post has a large gap that would seem to go into a table top hinge. The right one has a shorter post and the gap is about 1/4 the size of the left post. Is this normal or is something wrong with the posts? They are both molded into the frame of the machine. I cannot remove them. Thank you for your generous videos !!!
Sounds like you have a mismatched hinge set. They'll pull out of the head with pliers and some penetrating oil. Might just need to buy new hinges on eBay. Best to you.
Thank you kindly Sir !!!
This video was absolutely perfect, I've recently found an abundance of thread wrapped around the lower wheel, I think it was on there to increase the diameter to make my belt have enough tension. Have you ever seen anything like that? Once the thread was removed there's not enough tension on the belt to wind the bobbin, would a good solution be a new belt?
Very common for thread to get wrapped around a pulley. Just loosen two screws and adjust the bobbin winder closer to the belt. Sometimes you have to drill new holes if there's not enough adjustment. Thanks.
Hi. Do you have a video that shows the replacement of the presser foot lever? I just bought a used 206rb1 and there is no lever so I only have the knee lifter for now. Ordered the lever and trying to find a guide on how to put it on. Thanks.
Hi Samantha. Unfortunately, I don't have a video like that. I don't have a 206rb in the shop right now, otherwise I'd try to give you some pointers. I know I've replaced them in the past, and I don't remember it being overly complicated. Replacing the take-up lever is a week long job, but the presser foot lifting lever shouldn't be too bad.
Best of luck with it!
thank you, do you have any videos on how to adjust the walking foot to get rid of the marks on the my leather?
Hi Barbara! Check out this video at the 2:15 mark... th-cam.com/video/v2QdIKrK_xI/w-d-xo.html it shows the adjustments on a Juki LU-563 but they're very similar on a 206RB model. Just back off the foot pressure a bit. If it's very delicate leather, sometimes you have to switch to a smooth bottom foot (no serrations under the foot). Best to you.
Do you know what year this specific model machine came out? I'm just curious because I work with one and I haven't been able to find the info on Google. Thanks for the videos!
The Consew 206RB-1 is at least as old as 1980, but like you say they're hard to date exactly.
When my thread take up lever is in the highest position my two dots are about 1" apart. I have a 206 rb5. Can this be corrected?
You can likely adjust this by loosening the set screws in the handle and repositioning it. It doesn't really matter though, if you install / remove the bobbin when the take up lever is at the top position. Best.
Can you help? I cannot get any stitches created. Have rethreaded upper and bobbin. Changed needles. No apparent issue with tension. I did find the machine had been used - thread was shredded and left incompletely threaded.
What else should I look at? I inherited the machine and needing to teach myself. Any assistance is appreciated. Thx much.
Hi Terry, make sure it's the correct 135-17 needle system and the correct size for the thread you're using. Also make sure the needle is inserted into the needle bar fully. Needle groove needs to be on the left, and needle skarf on the right.
Bobbin case clicked in correctly?
All this assumes the feed dog moves when you rotate the handwheel by hand. If not, could be a tripped safety clutch.
Good luck troubleshooting.
Hello do you only fix machines or sell the units as well I am currently looking for a couple sewing machines consew 255RBL25
Sorry, I don't have any machines for sale. Thanks for checking out the video.
Where can I buy a consew 206 rb 1-2 or 4. In good working order. Thank you for your videos.
The used market is so expensive right now, I'd almost go with a new machine shipped right to your door... amzn.to/3SIIfH7 Best to you.
any videos on the sewing rolled hemmer foot for consew ? send to one to me
No sorry, I don't have any hemming videos. I mostly work with leather, which doesn't require a hemmed edge. Thanks.
Thank you for your advice as I was able to make the proper adjustment to allow the walking foot to not leave marks on my leather using my Consew 202 rb.
You are so knowledge about the Consew and I am a beginner if you could help me with another issue. I am sewing patches onto leather vests and I can't seem to follow the outer contour of the patch due to the fact that the walking foot covers up the patch edge where I need to sew. I can’t see when to turn my material to make a change in direction. Can I get a different walking foot so I can actually see where the needle is on the outline of the patch? TIA
Hi Barbara, I'm assuming you're currently using a standard foot set or a cording foot. If you switch to a zipper foot, it gives a lot better visibility. They have right and left zipper foot options, and I would add both to your collection. EBay is a good place to find them. Thanks for the kind words! Best to you.
You can get a narrow foot also
Hate the no look bobbin placement on those things, Give me a Pfaf or a Juki any day
Yep, they take a while to get used to. You can open the slide plate to see what you're doing. Thanks.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Still a PITA compared the 1245 Pfaff or the Juki
@@fishfuxors Well I sew everyday on a Juki LU-563 top loader, so I must agree with you.
where do you buy your leather from ?? always looking for a good company ,,,
The Leather Hide Store. Excellent quality, and the best prices I've found anywhere. Best to you.
How do I set the back tac adjustment if it's out of sink ?
First make sure that you start your back tack when the needle is all the way down, then handwheel rolled towards you to raise the needle slightly. That is the best chance for falling into the same holes. If it needs to be adjusted on an early 206rb model (not rb-5) you can read about it here... leatherworker.net/forum/topic/71462-adjusting-forward-and-reverse-stitch-on-consew-206rb3/ loosen two screws to make the adjustment.
The Consew 206rb line up is 1 -5 but the plate on mine just says 206rb so is there a 206rb, 206rb1, +2345 so ther are 6 machines or is the 206rb considered 206rb-1? Mine is different than yours it does not have the oil tank and window underneath that yours has or the wick tray under the top cover. Any ideas ?
Hi Michael, There were 206rb models and 206rb-1 models, both of which were pretty much identical. At some point in the manufacturing timeline they added "semi-automatic" lubrication which included the small oil tank under the machine to lubricate the hook, and a system of oil wicks under the top cover plate. Best to you, and enjoy your machine.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker thank you that is good to know it always confused me I appreciate your response
Hi - Can you say what the maximum stitch length is on a 206RB-1? I've seen 10mm and others say is limited to about 4.5mm?
The listed spec for the 206RB-1 max stitch length is about 7mm or 3.5-4 spi. If your limiters are set incorrectly, it might not be quite that long of a stitch. Definitely not as long as the RB-5, but I never need a 10mm stitch length! It's actually not a very strong seam. Best.
How about the oil point on the take-up lever where it articulates?
Mine didn't have a divot or oil well there. Some models it's taken care of with wicks and the other ports. Never a bad idea to manually lube articulations. Good comment!
Buenas noches podrian tradusir en español
I have this machine , how can I the stitch more wide if is possible ? Thanks
You can increase stitch length by twisting the knob on the reverse lever. This machine is straight stitch only, so no zigzag. Best to you.
Can these machines sew with T270 thread?
I consider the functional max to be 138 thread. If you make modifications it might do more. I usually use 92 weight thread for upholstery, and that sews great with stock upholstery machines. Thanks.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Thank you for the information you gave. You've been very helpful.
Hi, great vids! I have the same machine, I need to slow it down for doing motorcycle seats with marine vinyl and piping. I'm thinking I need a servo motor...do you have any recommendations or tips on that?
Thanks, Jeff
Here's how to install a servo... th-cam.com/video/Dx_rS9Fzvfo/w-d-xo.html
You will like a servo motor much better.
Thanks for the quick reply...just checked out that video. What brand servo motor it that ?
@@killerkork Here's the servo motor I usually buy... amzn.to/41M4aj0 thanks
Those types of servo motors don't have any torque, you can hold them from turning with your hand; brushless servos are much better and have a great deal of torque@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker
Well, it depends on your overall setup. I use a brush style servo with a box style pulley reducer and it would sew through plywood. Plus, I like the way these brush style motors start slowly, compared to most brushless motors. I've had some good brushless motors, but I've also had some bad ones that started fast regardless how you programmed them. Probably lots of factors in determining which motor is right for you. @@migelikali7265
These old machines are very very over rated. Yes they can sew almost everything but you need to be a pro to operate them. User friendliness is at level 0, basically you need to know all of the adjustments and tricks to operate them.
Well they have the same number of adjustments as modern machines, and you need to know all of them to be proficient. Really the only thing that's easier on a modern walking foot is the oiling. Put a servo motor on an old Consew or Juki, and I'm happy as a clam.
Sewing and making anything
a steep learning curve. I would say the old needle feeders are underrated. If you have the skill and knowledge you can make incredible things. Check any high-end upholstery shop and see what machines they use to make a 10k auto interior. Then check any small mom and pop shop. They're able to make 10k interiors, too, with the same machines.
I worked a few years in a factory that made outdoor furniture cushions. I was the mechanic for 80 of this type needle feeder. There is a reason.