Great video. Super informative. I wish I knew more people like you who are not allergic to tools and are not afraid to get their hands dirty and take something apart to fix it. Good job! Very professional.
this is my video manuel i use to rebuild my supercharger!!! best videos on youtube!!3FTDEEP is the BEST!!!! and i used the jet pump video to rebuild my jet pump awesome videos !!thanks again!!!
Your awesome I bought 2006 RXT with 60 hrs on it with some upgrades I'm at about 150. I've been dreading doing this but by reading it's necessary to do every 100 hrs but I have the confidence I can tackle the chore thanks to watching your video. Thank you!
Unless you know it's already been rebuilt, do not run your engine again until you rebuild your supercharger! Those older units are known to have the faulty washers that may severely damage your engine at any time. Good luck!
Rebuilt mine now pulling it apart again the impeller came loose from the shaft... and it's leaking oil into the intake system. Good job on the video it will help me a lot with the torques
3ftDeep I just showed your video of the antifreeze pouring out of the JetSki to an autozone girl to help get the right catch container. I think we got your exact same one. Thanks so much for taking the time making them.
Hi the kits are both OEM kits from Seadoo I measured the top of the shaft and the inside diameter of the spacer it was basically the same size then I micrometered down where the spacer needs to go it was .001” smaller so I took a chance used the old spacer oiled it up and tapped it on as soon as it went past the midpoint of the shaft, it shot on and has play when I googled this other people I’ve had the same problem, but it just definitely does not slide on the shaft from the top
outstanding video, wish i have a mechanic like you around my neighborhood, in my area, the marina jetski mechanic ask $600 to replace my ceramic washer from my seadoo sportster 2005 supercharger, it is in red color, they check my boat has 72 hours on the engine. but i told them i don't zip around on the water, my max speed it 25-30mph, but the mechanic said it still need to rebuild it asap.
Unfortunately, those old superchargers were problematic. If the washers failed, it would cost you a lot of money to fix the damage to your engine. Maybe next time you can rebuild it yourself. Thanks for your comment!
Good day and thank you for replying. To the bike the used buy and the board does not work. The engine runs very well the only thing that worries me besides the oil in the intake of the hose to the supercharger, is the presence of oil in the refrigeration circuit (that oil where it could come from?).
There's a good chance the supercharger in your machine has the ceramic washers. I would not turn over the engine until it was rebuilt. The next video series is on a Sea-Doo engine where the owner wanted "one more ride" before rebuilding his supercharger. That decision cost him about $4,000.
Do you work on PWC’s professionally? Or is this out of need, wanting to make sure things are done properly? I have been a mechanic for 40 years and I certainly enjoy your videos.
No, both Chris and I have day jobs that don’t involve mechanics. Chris just enjoyed working on his own PWCs, and I decided to start filming to help others out. Thanks very much for your comment.
3ftDeep I’m impressed. Maybe you could consider opening a PWC sales and service franchise. That way you could get paid for something you seem to really enjoy. I never owned a sea doo. I still enjoy your videos though.
Thank you for the video very informative just a little bit stumped on the torque unit used is that IBF.ft inch pounds ? I looked it up and it says torque force measurement so would you get a different type of torque wrench?thanks
Thanks for the kind words. “lbf.ft” is foot pounds, whereas “lbf.in” is inch pounds. I know it’s a bit confusing, but that’s one of the standard was of showing the units and is out of the Sea-Doo Service Manual. Safe riding!
Any idea what the top bolt towards the front of the PWC is? I cannot get on it with literally anything it looks square but does not fit an 8mm or 7mm wrench.
To be certain what you’re dealing with, you should check the parts diagram on Sea-Doo’s website. That will let you know exactly what it is supposed to be there on your machine. Good luck.
We bought a GTX 2003 with 250 hours, supercharge was never done. As soon as I got it, I did the rebuild following your video, thanks a lot!! Luckily for us, the original Supercharge was in top shape, I even checked the slippage for fun.. was in the norm.. crazy. Did the rebuild anyway no chances to be taken. -If you move forward slowly and don't do waves/jumps, (you don't torque the engine) is it possible that the Supercharge slips less or not at all, or there is always a splippage occuring as soon as you give gas? Was wondering the cause of it lasting for so many hours, last owner was just cruising all the time without torquing the engine, though it was a possible explanation.... thanks again!
It’s hard to say. Definitely the more gentle you are on the machine, the longer it will last. 250 hours in an older machine is unprecedented, though. The bearings should have given out, just from age. I wonder if it transferred owners at some point and the new owner didn’t know that it had been rebuilt. Mind you, we had the same machine some years ago and it had about 350 hours on it. We put 100 hours on it after we bought it without confirming that the supercharger had been rebuilt (by the looks of the machine we doubt it). So there you go, miracles happen …
nice video guys but you should never use a hammer to put bearing in place. Those bearing a ceramic one and they are really fragile. By doing it this way you reduce the life of the supercharger.
Danny Voelker Try a little heat on the housing around the disc. That might help. You could also spray some penetrating oil around the disc to see if that can get in and loosen it up, but make sure you clean off any of the oil before reassembly. Good luck and thanks for your comment.
Any tricks to get the threaded seal retainer out. I've soaked it with penetrating oil, heat, used a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter on the 4 pin tool with a pry bar,also with an impact gun and it's not budging. This is the first time the SC has been apart and has 105 hrs. The intercooler was leaking so the SC has a little corrosion inside but i caught it early and can't see it making the retainer so hard to remove. I've onlu used a heat gun but it was hot enough for the o rings to start smoking. Maybe more heat? I'm worried i'll snap the housing mounting tabs connected to the maintenance fixture off i'm cranking on it so hard.
I assume you’re referring to the “retaining disc”? Are you using the special tool with pins? You can also try putting it in the freezer (at least -20 degrees C) and then trying while it’s still frozen. If it doesn’t work, freeze it again and apply heat to the housing area around the disc for a minute or so (so the disc is cold and the housing is warm). Good luck!
I still dont understand why the exhaust has to be pulled back....is it to get the the top bolt on the supercharger better? I was able to get my bolt out of my 2005 RXT by just using a 6mm 12 point combination wrench
Sorry, another question...………...I purchased a sunk 2008 GTX 215 for 900$ that I will tinker with next summer. The owner reported to the dealership that is took on water after the engine seized on him...…...so I have no clue what I'm going to find. Anyways, my question is: what online parts company do you guys recommend for after market parts that sell reliable and quality parts such as jetpump rebuild kits, gasket sets, oil pump rebuild kits, SC rebuild kits, etc...…..I don't want to end up purchasing cheap parts that will fail or cause more problems, and I probably don't want to pay full OEM prices either.
We usually get our non-OEM parts from SBT or Riva Racing. We’ve had good luck with them. But for a 2008 you should also consider used parts through eBay. Good luck!
Can you explain "slip moment"? Is it what it sounds like, the moment when I feel a slip in the torque? Or the momemt when the slip washers move? Thanks in advance. Rebuild going good. Ready to get back on the 💦!!
When you turn the nut, the inner shaft will not turn and then at a certain point it will slip and it will start turning. The torque at which it starts turning (after it slips) is the slip moment.
Just rebuild 2 superchargers and reinstalled both one is squealing when trying to start and the other worked fine everything was the exact same what should I look for to fine the source of the noise
Any sign of the wheel making contact with the housing when the supercharger was disassembled, was the rebuilt supercharger spinning free after the rebuild and before installation, what was the slip after rebuild, are you sure the noise is coming from the supercharger ?
@@3ftDeepChannel not seeing any marks. Spins free and easy before installation and we took the supercharger out and bumped the start button and sounds normal. Not sure if the slip test
Are you following a service manual when you do ski work? I'm wondering how you have the knowledge to carry out these tasks in such detail. There are so many things, for example, where and what type (or none at all!) of grease to use in certain places I would be so unsure about!
Yes, I always follow the service manual. Sometimes, it’s a bit difficult to film everything when Chris is moving quickly, so we don’t always include everything, but I try to mention everything in the written text. Thanks for your comment.
It’s generally the same with superchargers on all sub-300 HP machines. There are some small differences, however, so it’s always best to have a service manual for your machine handy. If you send me another message in a couple of days we can provide you with a discount code for a digital service manual from eManualOnline.com.
I really enjoy your videos, a great learning experience. I was wondering how does the intercooler cools down the air? is it through the close loop cooling system or does it have a separate intake that brings water into the intercooler for heat exchange? Thanks in advance for your help.
Like a car radiator, but in reverse. It draws in cold water from the lake/ocean/sea and uses it to cool hot, compressed air from the supercharger before it goes into the engine.
@@3ftDeepChannel thanks a lot for the prompt response. I was thinking that the intercooler would use the same coolant loop in a closed loop system like the ones in modern seadoos. I just happened to find out/learned that the heat is removed from the intercooler and exhaust with a separate water open loop. So this technically makes the seadoos a dual loop cooling system, one for the engine (closed loop/coolant/no debris in engine/awesome) and one for the intercooler and exhaust (open loop/water) not ideal but I guess is the only way to get rid of so much heat produced by compressing the air and combustion gases. It wouldn't be possible to cool down these 2 separate devices with the close loop as the heat plate rejection can reject just reject limited amounts of heat.
Sea-Doo states to use Isoflex grease as indicated in the video. We haven't always used it (we've used another product at least once before with success), but you're taking a chance of harming your bearings if you don't. Try to find it, or have an expert tell you what the equivalent is. Good luck.
I have a 2012 rxpx 260 with 56 hours on it. The problem is that it sat up for about 9 years without ever being ran, I did the finger test to check and see if it slipped any and everything is tight. Even removed the supercharger and visually inspected everything and it all looks to be in good shape. Should I rebuild it anyways or do you think it's good to put another 50 hours on it before rebuilding?
That’s a good question. It’s an unusual case that we haven’t experienced before. To err on the side of caution, we’d probably rebuild the supercharger. Also, check the intercooler to make sure it’s sound and not leaking any moisture into the air intake. Good luck.
Have you ever had issues with the slip? As in needing very high torque to get the slip? I’ve just done a rebuild with an OEM kit, the bearing spacer did not fit, as was too tight. So I installed the old one.
Thanks for the reply…. I checked the spring washer set orientation and that’s all good. I did find this m.th-cam.com/video/YJgp0j73l64/w-d-xo.html regarding bearing spacer… not sure if this is my issue or not as I have used the original one, probably should of got the vernier on it. Have sent a message to BRP.
Hey, where did you use the Camshaft Locking Tool and the Needle Bearring Pusher, didn't see it in the Video. I bought an Seadoo RXP 215 and want to rebuild the Supercharger myself at the next 100 hours. Thank you
JaWeLe Good catch. We don't actually use either in our method, but they're both recommended tools by Sea-Doo. We like to include all the tools that they list in their service manual, in case you want to do some extra steps that aren't always necessary (i.e. we take some shortcuts). Thanks for your comment.
Thank you for asking this question! Very helpful to me now wondering the same thing after failing to order the 4-pin socket. No substitute for that tool thanks again @3ftDeep for the helpful information!
It really depends how lucky you are in removing the supercharger. There is one screw that is a pain in the neck to remove. If you’re lucky, it’s about an hour to remove the supercharger and set it up. Probably more like 1.5 hours. Then it’s about an hour to rebuild. I would say it’s about three and a half hours total time. A shop will probably charge $500 0r so labor plus $600 parts plus tax.
We remove the bearings from the strip. You can see the strip without the needle bearings on it from 5:10 to 5:18 on the video. The needle bearings are held together with a light waxy, grease. That's why we put them on in sections. I believe some OEM kits include the bearings in a cylinder through which you push them onto the shaft, but this one didn't.
Howdy, i just bought a 2009 rxp255 and I've sent off the supercharger to get rebuilt, but i was thinking i might try and do it myself next time, was just wondering if you recommend a particular kit? And when you do them do you only replace the parts in this video? It's just all the rebuild kits i see on ebay seem to come with a new shaft and gear, which in my mind seems unnecessary, wouldn't have thought that needle roller would have to do a lot of work, unless you leave your clutch slipping for a long time i guess haha. Also with the new parts that you put in there, are they now good to last the full 100 hours till the next blower service? Or do you replace them more regularly? Keen to hear your thoughts. Also thanks for the great video, you guys helped me rebuild my first jet pump, really appreciate it.
Hey Joe, Thanks for the kind words. We always use the OEM supercharger kit that is specific for the machine. We only replace the parts that come with they kit. We normally rebuild our supercharger every 150 hours, although the Sea-Doo dealers say they can last up to 200 hours. We don’t recommend trying that, though. Good luck!
Does this supercharger system have cooling for the supercharger itself? Also how many rpms does it take to build full boost? And how much is full boost?
No, it does not have a cooling system. As it is directly linked to the engine, the more RPMs the higher the boost. I can’t recall how much is for boost in psi. But you can probably Google that.
i have a charging problem on the same exact engines in my seadoo speedster 200 430. I believe it could be the automatic bilge but not sure. what do you suggest? battery is draining while the boat is sitting still no power, perk switch is off.
Sounds like a failing device somewhere, and you're probably right it could be the bilge. Try unplugging it for a while and see if that helps. My batter was murdered by my Spot Trace anti-theft device, which was connected to the battery via hardwire. Good luck.
Can a person remove the supercharger on a Sea-Doo GTX limited 2003 model, block off the port where the charger plugs into by plating it and just run it basically as a lower compression naturally aspirated ski with no ill effects? I have one and the guy who is buying it likes the ski but does not want access to the supercharger. He's an older gentleman who wants to put his grandchildren on it so he's okay going between 45 and 55 mph Max on that low compression motor.
I think this is what you're referring to: www.amazon.com/CDI-1502LDIN-8-Inch-Memory-Needle/dp/B000KKXOQC/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=3ftdspor-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=8736ccdc98edd2ad1fb7926f0cd1b621&creativeASIN=B000KKXOQC
I’m sorry I don’t know the answer to that question. If I were you though, I’d reinstall it the right way. It will cause too much damage if/when it fails. Good luck.
You definitely need a few specialized tools for this, but in our experience you save enough money to pay for the tools with the first rebuild. Good luck.
Hi good day My query is for my rxp 215, in a revision I found engine oil the hose of entrance to the supercharger and now the circuit of refrigeration has presence of oil. I use your experience and I thank you for any information about where this oil could come from. Thank you
On a stock machine, a little oil in the intake hose is normal excess oil can be caused by a leaking seal behind the supercharger wheel or oil coming through the crankcase vent system. When was the supercharger last rebuilt ? Without knowing the year and any modifications done those are the two areas I would check.
Hi 3 deep my two supercharger kits are in and there is a machining error. The spacer on the compressor shaft does not fit as it wasn’t machined correctly. (To tight)They say not to use The old one as it is a hair longer, but the new one comes with a spacer to take up that space to make it the same as the old, I was thinking I could use the old spacer minus the thrust washer in the kit to give me the same clearance/ length as the new what are your thoughts have you run into this yet? Are both OEM kits thanks
I haven't run in to that problem before. We've never used anything but the OEM kits and have never had any issues. Whenever there's been a mismatch we've always investigated and found that something had been modified, or someone made a mistake somewhere. Remember, these things are spinning at incredible speeds. If anything's off, it'll get destroyed. Investigate further. Good luck.
Although I always go by the book and don't like to recommend substitutions unless they're essentially identical to the recommended product, Chris doesn't. He uses regular marine grease. Good luck!
Hi, today I removed my charger because its leaking oil to my intake and it does not have the spacers at the back 7:45 , how do I know If I need spacers or not? Jetski was running good just some oil in my intake…
interesting video, but if you tighten a 6mm bolt at 100 pounds you will snap the threat, 6mm bolts are supposed to be tighten 12-15 pounds, in special cases up to 20 pounds
Hey, Leonardo. I’m not sure which bolts you’re referring to, but the torques are straight out of the Sea-Doo Service Manual for that machine. Lots of people are reading inch-pounds as foot-pounds and are making critical mistakes. That’s why we’re starting to report all the torques as Nm in our new videos.
We normally just replace the ones that come out where they came from, if there are any. If you have any doubt, check the parts diagram on Sea-Doo's website.
How do you guys feel about the every 100 hrs OR 2 years guidance. Is it really necessary to rebuild the supercharger every two years if you are really only putting about 10-20 hours on the ski a year? Or should you primarily be tracking the 100 hr mark?
We don’t follow that guidance. Depending on your kit, you should be able to get 150 to 200 hours out of a new supercharger rebuild. If you don’t use it very often though, a rebuild every five years should be good in our opinion. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel I just rebuilt my 2016 with 103 hours. bearings and clutch's looked good but the plastic bearing retainers were pretty brittle. made it almost 7 years but I was getting nervous.
Which way is the spring washer curvature installed? Is the curve "C" (arc) shape of the spring washer pointing towards the supercharger or the "c" arc pointing away towards the rear? Your videos are amazing!
Is the collar and nut the ones in front of the turbine? Sorry to bother, if it wasn't for you. I'll never be able to fix my doo. Yamahas people call them Redoos. Like saying "fix them again." They're meanies!
The clutch part of the shaft goes into the engine. Hold the supercharger with the impeller on your left, the right side of the shaft, other end to the impeller, is assembled like this... Bearing ----> Shaft ----> Clutch washer ----> Gear and needle bearings ----> Clutch washer -----> ) ( ) ( ) ------> Collar ------> Nut. I don't want to put you off working on your machine but this is not an area to experiment or make mistakes if any of these components are assembled incorrectly and fail the damage is very expensive to repair it would be a lot cheaper in the long run to pay to get the supercharger professionally rebuilt.
What we'll are you referring to? The supercharger should spin freely before you install it. It engages with the engine when installed, so should be very difficult to turn after installed.
8 is the Torx size used for the three bolts that hold the supercharger to the block and for the bolts on the supercharger housing. I have seen newer superchargers with 8mm bolt heads instead of Torx.
Awesome video. Love all your content. How do you get the SC to come out so easily? I def have all the correct bolts out I’m able to turn it back and forth a bit and used a pry bar (carefully) which did create “some” space. But I can’t get this thing out for the life of me. Any tips? Thanks!
First make sure you got all the retaining screws out! As there are two O-rings holding it snugly, it does take some brute strength to get it out …but it shouldn’t be a huge ordeal. If it is, make sure nothing is blocking it from coming straight out. You shouldn’t need any tools (like a pry bar). Thanks for the kind words, and good luck!
@@3ftDeepChannel I have all 3 the retaining screws out…and it does move back and forth and has separated from about an inch off but it seems to just be the middle that is stuck on .
Hey guys, good video. I’m having a problem with the torque of the slip moment. The washers slip way before reaching the target. What have I done wrong?
I’m assuming this is a brand new supercharger kit? There could be a number of reasons for this, if so. First question, did you make absolutely sure to arrange the spring washers correctly?
@3ftDeep If I were to remove my supercharger and bring it into a shop, and provide the rebuild kit...…….what is a reasonable amount of labour hours I should be charged?
There are a few variations, but essentially with the 4-Tecs it gets tracked from the engine into the inner workings of the supercharger. In other words, it uses oil from the engine. That's why it's critical to use the right kind of oil in these engines, as the supercharger relies on its consistency.
(Sorry same question from other video) May I ask? Is there any way to take a supercharged 1503 ACE and tune it down to NA 1503? Or that requires fuel remap other then charger port block off. Secondly what is your opinion on WSM rebuild kits, they are about $100 less then OEM and come with steel clutch washers. Service mechanics will tell me no no they won't even touch the unit if it has aftermarket rebuild kit. I know metallurgy enough that slight difference in quality of steel multiplied by 40-50k RPM then converted to angular momentum on the shaft yeelds much higher numbers and less then perfect cristlatus of steal components under pressure and temperature can easily crack and come apart, but are third party SC kits truly that unreliable and risky or is it just an up sell tactic. I've changed an IAC valve to a third party brand for $40 while oem is $250 and so far it works just as good. I guess only time will tell but $40 vs $250 that is reasonable risk, while gamble on potentialy faulty kit that can cause catastrofic engine failure is too risky so i ask your advice are WSM kits any good? And more importantly is there any chance of running the the supercharged motor without a supercharger, obviously plugging that mounting port some how?
In case someone doesn't see our response to the other comment, here it is for this one: I wouldn't recommend trying to tune it down. As you suggest, there are a few tweaks to the engine system that would confound that sort of change. We've always used the OEM rebuild kits as we don't have the same level of confidence in non-OEM products ...especially when it comes to a supercharger that can spin up to 40,000 RPM. Considering how much damage a failed supercharger can cause, it's just not worth it. Good luck!
Is it possible to remove the upper deck, say split it from the lower hull? My 2004 4TEC has a lot of mold in hard the reach places and I’d like to thoroughly clean this winter. I think removing tbe upper half of the ski would make it much easier.
Here's something we've done and it works well. Try spraying some of the "orange cleaner" (made from orange peel extracts) throughout your hull surface and leave it there for a few hours. Then lightly spray some water on the hull. Take it around the block a few times so the mixture sloshes around and leave it sealed under your seat for 24 hours. Rinse and drain well. Good luck!
Hey guys. My retaining disk is stuck stuck. Broke a stainless extension, the 3/8 opening on the 4 pin tool is beginning to warp, and the retaining disk itself has a chip in the metal from the tool popping out on my last attempt. Any ideas other than heat. I understand get as much leverage as possible but if i dont push in on the 4 pin tool it pops out so easily…
My 4 pin tool was starting to do the same the pins were loose and the 3/8" opening was getting sloppy I bought a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter and had it welded on and the pins tack welded in place so there was no slop in the tool. I had one rebuild where the disk was unusually hard to remove, heat the housing with a heat gun to loosen the thread locker, clamp the holder plate in a good solid vise and use a 3ft breaker bar it will come loose. If you get the tool welded up you can also try a 1/2" impact gun I found this only works if you get the tool fixed otherwise there is too much slop and the impact doesn't work as good. Good Luck
How do you adjust the slip torque on these older ones if it’s too high? Mine is clear up in the 20s. Also the friction washers that came in my kit are slightly too large in the center opening. These seem to be the upgraded washers but I’m not sure if that’s normal. Doesn’t seem right to me.
That's a good question. We haven't experienced that issue before. It may be that it was assembled incorrectly or that the wrong kit was used. If things don't seem right you need to investigate. Remember, these things spin at very high RPMs and if they fail, the parts can go into the engine and do lots of damage. Good luck.
Hi 3ftDeep. I have a real problem here. This rebuild was going smooth. I have all the special tools and know-how. Got to the point where new spacer sleeve slides on new shaft and it will not slide on! It slides down about 1.5 inches and seizes. I even tried freezing the shaft and heating the sleeve and when I was pushing it on, it totally seized to shaft and I cant even pull it off?! This is a new OEM SeaDoo kit. 4:45 in your video is what I’m referencing. Yours slides right on. Directions do not say but I was installing with the grooves facing gear like you did. Have you ever seen this? I’m STUCK. Literally. Thanks!
Hey Jason, Sorry to hear about your struggle. You shouldn't need heat for this. First, check to make sure you have the right kit for your machine. Did you get the OEM kit? Next, does the washer slide on? It's possible your shaft is bent slightly (although it's unlikely). Check it with an edge you know is absolutely straight (like a metal ruler). Good luck, and let me know.
I have the same issue. The washer slides on no problem. The kit is correct for my 08 255 rxp. The shaft and spacer are out of the same package. The shaft is not bent. However there is a slight ridge on the shaft that seems to stop the spacer from sliding on. I checked the old shaft and there is a ridge on it as well in the same spot on the shaft but not as pronounced. I also tried the old spacer on the new shaft and it slides on very easily. Perhaps too easily as it seem a bit sloppy compared to the fit on the old shaft. The new spacer will not go on the old shaft at all, too small. I am trying to freeze the shaft and heat the spacer now. I would think that if all of the parts are on the same blister pack that they should fit. It’s difficult to return the kit if half of the parts have been installed.....
@@3ftDeepChannel thanks. I did notice that on the old spacer there is one groove milled into it near the end of it. On the new spacer there are two grooves. Maybe this spacer is for a different kit and it was put in this kit by accident. I will call BRP on Monday.
I have a GTX 185 4TEC, believe it’s a 2004. Today I pulled the supercharger and drained water out of the engine. The ski is new to me and I’d like to test the engine before spending money on a supercharger rebuild. Do you know if I could test run the engine without the supercharger installed?
Sirs; Thank you for all the great very helpful videos. Re this supercharger rebuild; 1) Seadoo dealer never heard of Super Lube, 293 550 030 crosses to loctite LB superlube, they use BelRay waterproof, what do you use ? 2) I also have 2005 GTX 185, did not notice 3 spacers when removed, SC to Eng, was rebuilt in 2010 at dealer, when are they required ? Thank You Very Much.
I'm not surprised that the dealer has never heard of a product that they're supposed to use in each supercharger rebuild. I've found that they often have none of the screws available that they're supposed to replace every time they remove the iBR (although I'm sure they charge for them). I suggest just using whatever the dealer uses, as we often use whatever's laying around that's close, and it seems to work perfectly. I suggest looking at the parts fiche on Sea-Doo's website to see what's supposed to be in your supercharger. Not sure if this link will take you there: www.sea-doo.com/ca/en/shop/essentials/parts-.html. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thank You for the reply. I did as you suggested & looked at Seadoo parts diagrams but did not see any spacers, supercharger to engine, for 2005 models, still confused as to why you used them on this 2005, unless just example ? Thanks Again
@@bsmith5709 Sorry, I think I misunderstood your question. The supercharger kit we purchased included instructions that stated to use the spacers when installing on older models. The newer models didn't require the spacers. Not sure if it's the rebuild kit (which is OEM), the engine block or the supercharger that is different, but that's what the instructions said. Good question, though! Thanks for your comment.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thank You again sir. I spoke to the shop manager at PWC Muscle, he told me that the spacers requirement, supercharger to engine, depends on which SC housing you have, by casting number. If needed they superglue them on. He also told me that the grease should GO ON THE O-RINGS, so they do not dry tear, and at base to help seal. I note manual just says "sealing surface". 10 Nms = 89 lbf-in, my 2005 manual says 10 Nm for one of the 3 screws, no note for another, and 30 Nm for the one on top, I am hoping it is an error.
In your video are you adding Isoflex grease to both bearings? (packing them) or just a dab? also is there anywhere else you are applying it? looks like you are just coating the outside of the bearing. I just want to make sure I do it right.
Geo Sto Both sealed bearings get some engine oil (i.e. no Isoflex) applied onto them so they fit easier into the housing. The needle bearing get a generous amount of the Isoflex grease. It's used to get the bearings to stick to the shaft during assembly, but also to reduce friction -especially before the engine oil gets circulating. Be generous. You should also apply some onto the shaft for the friction washers, needle pin, and lock washer. Don't use a substitute!
Ah...great advise. I notice in the new kit # 881102 that the needle bearings are no longer placed on wax but instead inside two plastic sleeves ( looks like regular roller bearings ) but when you install them the sleeves are designed to get pushed out. Much better set-up. I ordered the grease and super lube. Already have a bench press and tools so should be straight forward. The videos you provide are great!
Geo Sto BTW...on the latest OEM rebuild kits for the 215's and up you will need the needle bearing push tool # 529-036-237 that does not come standard with the rebuild tool kits you see out.
Geo Sto Thanks for the tip. I think that's why Chris elected to do it by hand. As long as you have good eyes and a steady hand, you can assemble them manually, but using a bearing pusher would be easier and safer.
They're generally the same, but you need to make sure you're getting the right kit for your year and model (we suggest getting it from Sea-Doo through your local dealer). There are some differences. The good news is they've upgraded them over time so your new rebuild kit likely contains superior parts. Good luck.
Great video. If you had the same machine as in video with 88 hours on it and being 13 years old do you think the supercharger should be rebuilt because of the time frame? Thanks
I wouldn't rebuild a newer (i.e. up to 2016 model) machine until I had at least 150 hours on it, but no later than 200 hours. But if you have a 2005 model I would definitely rebuild the supercharger, as it almost certainly has the old failure-prone ceramic washers. In fact, I wouldn't even start it up again until the supercharger was rebuilt. Supercharger washer failure can cause a lot of damage to your engine. Good luck.
So if when I pulled the supercharger out from the engine, there was not a gear that came out with it? What would that mean. I’ve got an 04 rxp and an 05 rxt that this was the same case with. No gear on the supercharger. Would anyone know why that might be? And I would imagine that could be why it wasn’t building any boost. Bought the pair of machines that this way, all I’ve done is take the superchargers off. Any insight would be incredible
Does the hard to reach bolt thread into the engine mount? It broke off and I have the other two bolts removed from SC but cant get the SC to budge out of the engine or twist. Any suggestions?
If the head has broken off that screw and the other screws have been removed, you should be able to remove the super by pulling straight back. It's held in there very tightly with 2 big O-rings, so you'll need to pull back quite hard (be careful). A lot of people change the screw to one with a proper head to make removal easier the next time. Good luck!
@@3ftDeepChannel What's the easiest way to check my engine is aligned and mounts/bushings haven't failed? I am about to try n get the supercharger out but it appears I dont have enough clearance and I am super close to driveline boot. Thinking this may be why I can't move it. Never had any issues with the ski though..
Hi, do you know the specs of the three bolts holding the supercharger onto the engine? I want to replace them all with hex heads since all the Torx heads are stripped
Sorry, I don't have the specs for those bolts, but I can tell you that for my GTR 215 they're Flanged Torx Screw M6 X 35. Quite a few people replace them with hex head screws without problems. Good luck.
In theory, yes but these ones don’t seem to be critical. I’ve heard of lots of people replacing the screws and have seen some myself, and I’ve never heard of any problems.
Hey man I bought the rebuild kit from the dealer and installed it exactly how you demonstrated for some reason the kit had 3 extra washers and they don’t even fit on the shaft... and they didn’t give me the washer that goes before the cap nut so I reused the old one and after I torqued down both nuts on each side I try to turn the shaft with my hand and it won’t move at all is that normal?
The three small washers are spacers for the older supercharger housings they go between the supercharger and the block the instructions describe which supercharger housings require the spacers. The newer kits don't have the washer for the cap nut as the new style cap nut has the washer built in I would remove the old washer you installed. Without the supercharger installed the shaft should spin freely after the rebuild so something is not correct maybe a bearing is not seated properly and is binding when the nuts are tightened it's important that the impeller nut gets tightened before the clutch side nut if you have to take it apart the bearings will need to be replaced you can't disassemble the supercharger without risking damage to the bearings. All of this info is in the instructions that come with every oem rebuild kit.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thank you for the reply! The problem was I didn’t clean out the old loctite for the retaining disc and I went back and cleaned it out and it fixed the problem but I used the old washer with new nut and already installed it and started it up and the engine sounds the same it doesn’t rev up all the way do you think the jet pump could be the culprit? I sucked up dirty water and a rock like a idiot and shorty after it would only go 30-40 mph.
It depends on why it was rebuilt. If you’ve been experiencing a loss of power, you will feel a return to normal power. If it’s being rebuilt because it’s an older model with ceramic washers, then probably you won’t feel any difference.
I assume you mean the difficult-to-access Torx M6x35 screw that bolts the supercharger to the engine. We don't torque that one. We just snug it up as tight as we can. Good luck.
We didn't paint the supercharger; some years came that colour. If I were to paint the piston head, I would have it powder coated by a professional. It's not too expensive, it'll look great and it'll last a lot longer. Good luck.
I dont need to yet but i found such a great deal on the rebuild kits I bought two of them . I figure next season I will need to rebuild. I have a bearing press so this should help some. In your build during video I see you placing needle bearings and I did not open my kit but I do not see any through the package,
Geo Sto The needle bearings are packaged on a wax strip as a block, so they may be there but just not recognizable. I doubt they would have replaced them, as the kits seem to only vary by number of teeth on the drive gear.
hi, have you ever had any issues with the bearings feeling "gritty" when on the shaft and in the housing but one a bit of oil is applied it feels fine? is this normal. cheers awesome vids by the way..
I have noticed a difference, but it's not too extreme. I assume you're referring to when the bearings are new. If they've got more than 100 to 150 hours on them and you've got it apart, I assume you wouldn't put them back in feeling "gritty", even if they feel smooth with a bit of oil.
It's a brand that's essentially the same company as "Snap-On", but less expensive. I've added a link to it in the description below. Whatever you buy, make sure it has the dial so you can see the torque being applied.
What brand/part number torque wrench do you use to check for supercharger slip, id like to be able to check mine annually on my own to know if i should send it to be rebuilt
It’s only necessary to check the slip if you feel you’re losing power. If your supercharger hasn’t been rebuilt for over 200 hours, or five years, it should be rebuilt regardless of how it slips. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel ah ok thank you, theres only 10 hrs on my 215 crate engine and freshly rebuilt supercharger, im just paranoid about supercharger failure now lol do you have any experience running amzoil marine oil in supercharged 4 tecs? They claim it meets all oem specs and is perfectly safe for the superchargers
I haven’t run that oil in my machine, but you need to be very careful to match the semi-synthetic blend that BRP’s pushing. Personally, I always go with the OEM stuff. That way I’m certain I’m giving my engine and supercharger exactly what they need. If that supercharger was rebuilt properly and it was done recently, you should have lots of life left on it and I wouldn’t bother with checking the slip until it’s got at least 100 hours on it. Good luck.
Great video. Super informative. I wish I knew more people like you who are not allergic to tools and are not afraid to get their hands dirty and take something apart to fix it. Good job! Very professional.
jose ortiz Thanks for your comment, Jose.
this is my video manuel i use to rebuild my supercharger!!! best videos on youtube!!3FTDEEP is the BEST!!!! and i used the jet pump video to rebuild my jet pump awesome videos !!thanks again!!!
Thanks!
awesome... i dont have a press but i do have a heat gun and freezer... now i feel more confident in doin the job myself.
Your awesome I bought 2006 RXT with 60 hrs on it with some upgrades I'm at about 150. I've been dreading doing this but by reading it's necessary to do every 100 hrs but I have the confidence I can tackle the chore thanks to watching your video. Thank you!
Unless you know it's already been rebuilt, do not run your engine again until you rebuild your supercharger! Those older units are known to have the faulty washers that may severely damage your engine at any time. Good luck!
Best music in any repair vid
I keep thinking a hot girl wearing a bikini will do a pizza delivery.
Wrong.
Rebuilt mine now pulling it apart again the impeller came loose from the shaft... and it's leaking oil into the intake system. Good job on the video it will help me a lot with the torques
Came for the porn music, left knowing how to rebuild a supercharger. Win win.
classic lol
haha
no, you came TO the porn music
Amazing video!!! thank you, i'm losing the fear to disassemble the turbo of my rxpx!
Awesome video guys, I need to learn to magically change the color on my supercharger hahaha.
he probally had to replace the case or he painted it
Man you are an excellent mechanic.
Also, loved how you heated the case and cooled the shaft great idea
Thanks, Grant.
I like that that you shown the reassembly. Some will say, just do steps in reverse order. Which don't always work out so well. Thanks.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.
3ftDeep I just showed your video of the antifreeze pouring out of the JetSki to an autozone girl to help get the right catch container. I think we got your exact same one. Thanks so much for taking the time making them.
Thanks for the feedback, Daniel. We love hearing stories like that! Safe riding.
I’m just here for the music. Jk great video. I enjoy watching you work
Hi the kits are both OEM kits from Seadoo I measured the top of the shaft and the inside diameter of the spacer it was basically the same size then I micrometered down where the spacer needs to go it was .001” smaller so I took a chance used the old spacer oiled it up and tapped it on as soon as it went past the midpoint of the shaft, it shot on and has play when I googled this other people I’ve had the same problem, but it just definitely does not slide on the shaft from the top
nice job, some very good points made.. thanks
Very useful supercharger rebuild video, Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words!
Speechless. Well done. Thank you so much for sharing.
Our pleasure. Thanks for the kind words!
outstanding video, wish i have a mechanic like you around my neighborhood, in my area, the marina jetski mechanic ask $600 to replace my ceramic washer from my seadoo sportster 2005 supercharger, it is in red color, they check my boat has 72 hours on the engine. but i told them i don't zip around on the water, my max speed it 25-30mph, but the mechanic said it still need to rebuild it asap.
Unfortunately, those old superchargers were problematic. If the washers failed, it would cost you a lot of money to fix the damage to your engine. Maybe next time you can rebuild it yourself. Thanks for your comment!
Do you know what year they switch from using the ceramic washers?
You’re usually safe if you have a 2008 or newer model.
Good day and thank you for replying. To the bike the used buy and the board does not work. The engine runs very well the only thing that worries me besides the oil in the intake of the hose to the supercharger, is the presence of oil in the refrigeration circuit (that oil where it could come from?).
I got a 2007 rxt at 77hrs and it runs great. When should I be considering rebuilding the supercharger? Thx
There's a good chance the supercharger in your machine has the ceramic washers. I would not turn over the engine until it was rebuilt. The next video series is on a Sea-Doo engine where the owner wanted "one more ride" before rebuilding his supercharger. That decision cost him about $4,000.
Do you work on PWC’s professionally?
Or is this out of need, wanting to make sure things are done properly?
I have been a mechanic for 40 years and I certainly enjoy your videos.
No, both Chris and I have day jobs that don’t involve mechanics. Chris just enjoyed working on his own PWCs, and I decided to start filming to help others out. Thanks very much for your comment.
3ftDeep
I’m impressed. Maybe you could consider opening a PWC sales and service franchise. That way you could get paid for something you seem to really enjoy. I never owned a sea doo.
I still enjoy your videos though.
Thank you for the video very informative just a little bit stumped on the torque unit used is that IBF.ft inch pounds ? I looked it up and it says torque force measurement so would you get a different type of torque wrench?thanks
Thanks for the kind words. “lbf.ft” is foot pounds, whereas “lbf.in” is inch pounds. I know it’s a bit confusing, but that’s one of the standard was of showing the units and is out of the Sea-Doo Service Manual. Safe riding!
Any idea what the top bolt towards the front of the PWC is? I cannot get on it with literally anything it looks square but does not fit an 8mm or 7mm wrench.
It should be the same type as the other supercharger screws. A previous owner may have replaced it with something else, though.
To be certain what you’re dealing with, you should check the parts diagram on Sea-Doo’s website. That will let you know exactly what it is supposed to be there on your machine. Good luck.
Thanks for making these vids
You're welcome
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤ Tout les travail ❤❤❤❤❤merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
We bought a GTX 2003 with 250 hours, supercharge was never done. As soon as I got it, I did the rebuild following your video, thanks a lot!! Luckily for us, the original Supercharge was in top shape, I even checked the slippage for fun.. was in the norm.. crazy. Did the rebuild anyway no chances to be taken.
-If you move forward slowly and don't do waves/jumps, (you don't torque the engine) is it possible that the Supercharge slips less or not at all, or there is always a splippage occuring as soon as you give gas?
Was wondering the cause of it lasting for so many hours, last owner was just cruising all the time without torquing the engine, though it was a possible explanation.... thanks again!
It’s hard to say. Definitely the more gentle you are on the machine, the longer it will last. 250 hours in an older machine is unprecedented, though. The bearings should have given out, just from age. I wonder if it transferred owners at some point and the new owner didn’t know that it had been rebuilt. Mind you, we had the same machine some years ago and it had about 350 hours on it. We put 100 hours on it after we bought it without confirming that the supercharger had been rebuilt (by the looks of the machine we doubt it). So there you go, miracles happen …
…mind you, the jet pump eventually failed on that one in the ocean, leaving us stranded on Salt Spring Island. Could have been a disaster.
nice video guys but you should never use a hammer to put bearing in place. Those bearing a ceramic one and they are really fragile. By doing it this way you reduce the life of the supercharger.
Thanks for the tip, David. You’re right about being very gentle with those bearings. The making of that video inspired us to buy a bearing press.
Great Video! I am having trouble getting my retaining disc off. Do you have any tips?
Danny Voelker Try a little heat on the housing around the disc. That might help. You could also spray some penetrating oil around the disc to see if that can get in and loosen it up, but make sure you clean off any of the oil before reassembly. Good luck and thanks for your comment.
Would you recommend a SBT KIT ?
Yes, but we still prefer the OEM kit.
Any tricks to get the threaded seal retainer out. I've soaked it with penetrating oil, heat, used a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter on the 4 pin tool with a pry bar,also with an impact gun and it's not budging. This is the first time the SC has been apart and has 105 hrs. The intercooler was leaking so the SC has a little corrosion inside but i caught it early and can't see it making the retainer so hard to remove. I've onlu used a heat gun but it was hot enough for the o rings to start smoking. Maybe more heat? I'm worried i'll snap the housing mounting tabs connected to the maintenance fixture off i'm cranking on it so hard.
I assume you’re referring to the “retaining disc”? Are you using the special tool with pins? You can also try putting it in the freezer (at least -20 degrees C) and then trying while it’s still frozen. If it doesn’t work, freeze it again and apply heat to the housing area around the disc for a minute or so (so the disc is cold and the housing is warm). Good luck!
I still dont understand why the exhaust has to be pulled back....is it to get the the top bolt on the supercharger better? I was able to get my bolt out of my 2005 RXT by just using a 6mm 12 point combination wrench
It's not always necessary to pull back the exhaust. Sometimes it makes the job a heck of a lot easier, though. Thanks for your comment.
Sorry, another question...………...I purchased a sunk 2008 GTX 215 for 900$ that I will tinker with next summer. The owner reported to the dealership that is took on water after the engine seized on him...…...so I have no clue what I'm going to find. Anyways, my question is: what online parts company do you guys recommend for after market parts that sell reliable and quality parts such as jetpump rebuild kits, gasket sets, oil pump rebuild kits, SC rebuild kits, etc...…..I don't want to end up purchasing cheap parts that will fail or cause more problems, and I probably don't want to pay full OEM prices either.
We usually get our non-OEM parts from SBT or Riva Racing. We’ve had good luck with them. But for a 2008 you should also consider used parts through eBay. Good luck!
Nice job!
would it really make a difference(if so how much) when u put a K&N filter right above the supercharger and ditch the long air intake tube?
Well, bear in mind that whenever you put a filter in the system it restricts air flow. We don't use one.
Can you explain "slip moment"? Is it what it sounds like, the moment when I feel a slip in the torque? Or the momemt when the slip washers move? Thanks in advance. Rebuild going good. Ready to get back on the 💦!!
When you turn the nut, the inner shaft will not turn and then at a certain point it will slip and it will start turning. The torque at which it starts turning (after it slips) is the slip moment.
The slip moment is when you forget you spilled oil and then slip, and then crack, and then ooooof
Excellent video! What's the tightening order for the case?
If you email me at 3ftDeepSports@gmail.com I'll send you an image of the torque sequence via email.
What do you think of balancing the unit every rebuild? for something that spins at between 45 ~ 50k harmonics would play a big part in longevity, no?
Sounds reasonable, but doesn't seem necessary. We haven't encountered the need, yet and have had no problems with our rebuilds.
Isoflex grease not needed. Use marine grease.
I grew a mustache listening to this video.
Better than growing a mole!
Just rebuild 2 superchargers and reinstalled both one is squealing when trying to start and the other worked fine everything was the exact same what should I look for to fine the source of the noise
Any sign of the wheel making contact with the housing when the supercharger was disassembled, was the rebuilt supercharger spinning free after the rebuild and before installation, what was the slip after rebuild, are you sure the noise is coming from the supercharger ?
@@3ftDeepChannel not seeing any marks. Spins free and easy before installation and we took the supercharger out and bumped the start button and sounds normal. Not sure if the slip test
Are you following a service manual when you do ski work? I'm wondering how you have the knowledge to carry out these tasks in such detail. There are so many things, for example, where and what type (or none at all!) of grease to use in certain places I would be so unsure about!
Yes, I always follow the service manual. Sometimes, it’s a bit difficult to film everything when Chris is moving quickly, so we don’t always include everything, but I try to mention everything in the written text. Thanks for your comment.
Dear 3ft, I have a seadoo RXP260RS 2013. is what you're doing the same for the SC on my seadoo? thankyou !
It’s generally the same with superchargers on all sub-300 HP machines. There are some small differences, however, so it’s always best to have a service manual for your machine handy. If you send me another message in a couple of days we can provide you with a discount code for a digital service manual from eManualOnline.com.
I really enjoy your videos, a great learning experience. I was wondering how does the intercooler cools down the air? is it through the close loop cooling system or does it have a separate intake that brings water into the intercooler for heat exchange? Thanks in advance for your help.
Like a car radiator, but in reverse. It draws in cold water from the lake/ocean/sea and uses it to cool hot, compressed air from the supercharger before it goes into the engine.
@@3ftDeepChannel thanks a lot for the prompt response. I was thinking that the intercooler would use the same coolant loop in a closed loop system like the ones in modern seadoos. I just happened to find out/learned that the heat is removed from the intercooler and exhaust with a separate water open loop. So this technically makes the seadoos a dual loop cooling system, one for the engine (closed loop/coolant/no debris in engine/awesome) and one for the intercooler and exhaust (open loop/water) not ideal but I guess is the only way to get rid of so much heat produced by compressing the air and combustion gases. It wouldn't be possible to cool down these 2 separate devices with the close loop as the heat plate rejection can reject just reject limited amounts of heat.
Do you have to use Isoflex grease on the needle bearings what if you don’t what happens?
Sea-Doo states to use Isoflex grease as indicated in the video. We haven't always used it (we've used another product at least once before with success), but you're taking a chance of harming your bearings if you don't. Try to find it, or have an expert tell you what the equivalent is. Good luck.
I have a 2012 rxpx 260 with 56 hours on it. The problem is that it sat up for about 9 years without ever being ran, I did the finger test to check and see if it slipped any and everything is tight. Even removed the supercharger and visually inspected everything and it all looks to be in good shape. Should I rebuild it anyways or do you think it's good to put another 50 hours on it before rebuilding?
That’s a good question. It’s an unusual case that we haven’t experienced before. To err on the side of caution, we’d probably rebuild the supercharger. Also, check the intercooler to make sure it’s sound and not leaking any moisture into the air intake. Good luck.
Have you ever had issues with the slip? As in needing very high torque to get the slip? I’ve just done a rebuild with an OEM kit, the bearing spacer did not fit, as was too tight. So I installed the old one.
No, never. Double-check to make sure you got the right kit for your supercharger, and the spring washers were installed correctly. Good luck.
Thanks for the reply…. I checked the spring washer set orientation and that’s all good. I did find this m.th-cam.com/video/YJgp0j73l64/w-d-xo.html regarding bearing spacer… not sure if this is my issue or not as I have used the original one, probably should of got the vernier on it. Have sent a message to BRP.
Hey,
where did you use the Camshaft Locking Tool and the Needle Bearring Pusher, didn't see it in the Video.
I bought an Seadoo RXP 215 and want to rebuild the Supercharger myself at the next 100 hours.
Thank you
JaWeLe Good catch. We don't actually use either in our method, but they're both recommended tools by Sea-Doo. We like to include all the tools that they list in their service manual, in case you want to do some extra steps that aren't always necessary (i.e. we take some shortcuts). Thanks for your comment.
Thank you for asking this question! Very helpful to me now wondering the same thing after failing to order the 4-pin socket. No substitute for that tool thanks again @3ftDeep for the helpful information!
Thanks for an excellent video. How many hours of straight time does it take you to do the job and how many book hours does a dealership charge?
It really depends how lucky you are in removing the supercharger. There is one screw that is a pain in the neck to remove. If you’re lucky, it’s about an hour to remove the supercharger and set it up. Probably more like 1.5 hours. Then it’s about an hour to rebuild. I would say it’s about three and a half hours total time. A shop will probably charge $500 0r so labor plus $600 parts plus tax.
I just took mine in for this service and cost me $500 parts $500 labor in NorCal peace
Thanks for the info.
For the needle bearing, do you leave the wax strips on? Or do you have to remove them before placing the drive gear?
We remove the bearings from the strip. You can see the strip without the needle bearings on it from 5:10 to 5:18 on the video. The needle bearings are held together with a light waxy, grease. That's why we put them on in sections. I believe some OEM kits include the bearings in a cylinder through which you push them onto the shaft, but this one didn't.
Howdy, i just bought a 2009 rxp255 and I've sent off the supercharger to get rebuilt, but i was thinking i might try and do it myself next time, was just wondering if you recommend a particular kit? And when you do them do you only replace the parts in this video? It's just all the rebuild kits i see on ebay seem to come with a new shaft and gear, which in my mind seems unnecessary, wouldn't have thought that needle roller would have to do a lot of work, unless you leave your clutch slipping for a long time i guess haha. Also with the new parts that you put in there, are they now good to last the full 100 hours till the next blower service? Or do you replace them more regularly? Keen to hear your thoughts. Also thanks for the great video, you guys helped me rebuild my first jet pump, really appreciate it.
Hey Joe, Thanks for the kind words. We always use the OEM supercharger kit that is specific for the machine. We only replace the parts that come with they kit. We normally rebuild our supercharger every 150 hours, although the Sea-Doo dealers say they can last up to 200 hours. We don’t recommend trying that, though. Good luck!
@@3ftDeepChannel wow that was quick. Oh cool sounds like they've improved the reliability a lot then. Thanks heaps, God bless.
Does this supercharger system have cooling for the supercharger itself? Also how many rpms does it take to build full boost? And how much is full boost?
No, it does not have a cooling system. As it is directly linked to the engine, the more RPMs the higher the boost. I can’t recall how much is for boost in psi. But you can probably Google that.
i have a charging problem on the same exact engines in my seadoo speedster 200 430. I believe it could be the automatic bilge but not sure. what do you suggest? battery is draining while the boat is sitting still no power, perk switch is off.
Sounds like a failing device somewhere, and you're probably right it could be the bilge. Try unplugging it for a while and see if that helps. My batter was murdered by my Spot Trace anti-theft device, which was connected to the battery via hardwire. Good luck.
Can a person remove the supercharger on a Sea-Doo GTX limited 2003 model, block off the port where the charger plugs into by plating it and just run it basically as a lower compression naturally aspirated ski with no ill effects? I have one and the guy who is buying it likes the ski but does not want access to the supercharger. He's an older gentleman who wants to put his grandchildren on it so he's okay going between 45 and 55 mph Max on that low compression motor.
In theory, it’s possible but not recommended. There would be ill effects.
Where to found slipping moment tool?
Google show everything but that tool
I think this is what you're referring to: www.amazon.com/CDI-1502LDIN-8-Inch-Memory-Needle/dp/B000KKXOQC/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=3ftdspor-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=8736ccdc98edd2ad1fb7926f0cd1b621&creativeASIN=B000KKXOQC
i just installed my ball bearing cage side down ( impeller side bearing) am i going to blow up my bearing and maybe engine also?
I’m sorry I don’t know the answer to that question. If I were you though, I’d reinstall it the right way. It will cause too much damage if/when it fails. Good luck.
Quickly figured out this is not a DIY job without proper tools. To the shop we go...
You definitely need a few specialized tools for this, but in our experience you save enough money to pay for the tools with the first rebuild. Good luck.
Hi good day
My query is for my rxp 215, in a revision I found engine oil the hose of entrance to the supercharger and now the circuit of refrigeration has presence of oil. I use your experience and I thank you for any information about where this oil could come from. Thank you
On a stock machine, a little oil in the intake hose is normal excess oil can be caused by a leaking seal behind the supercharger wheel or oil coming through the crankcase vent system. When was the supercharger last rebuilt ? Without knowing the year and any modifications done those are the two areas I would check.
Hi 3 deep my two supercharger kits are in and there is a machining error. The spacer on the compressor shaft does not fit as it wasn’t machined correctly. (To tight)They say not to use The old one as it is a hair longer, but the new one comes with a spacer to take up that space to make it the same as the old, I was thinking I could use the old spacer minus the thrust washer in the kit to give me the same clearance/ length as the new what are your thoughts have you run into this yet? Are both OEM kits thanks
I haven't run in to that problem before. We've never used anything but the OEM kits and have never had any issues. Whenever there's been a mismatch we've always investigated and found that something had been modified, or someone made a mistake somewhere. Remember, these things are spinning at incredible speeds. If anything's off, it'll get destroyed. Investigate further. Good luck.
What's have you been doing with the rebuild kit manifacturing defect where the bearing spacer is too tight and doesn't slip on without resistance?
I have not noticed that on any of the oem rebuild kits I did a supercharger rebuild about a month ago and didn't notice anything unusual.
I am unable to get the isoflex grease in the time frame I desire, I am just using marine multipurpose grease.
It should make a good substitute right?
Although I always go by the book and don't like to recommend substitutions unless they're essentially identical to the recommended product, Chris doesn't. He uses regular marine grease. Good luck!
Hi, today I removed my charger because its leaking oil to my intake and it does not have the spacers at the back 7:45 , how do I know If I need spacers or not? Jetski was running good just some oil in my intake…
Check out the parts diagram for your machine at Sea-Doo's website (and good luck): shop.sea-doo.com/ca/en/shop/sales/parts/
interesting video, but if you tighten a 6mm bolt at 100 pounds you will snap the threat, 6mm bolts are supposed to be tighten 12-15 pounds, in special cases up to 20 pounds
Hey, Leonardo. I’m not sure which bolts you’re referring to, but the torques are straight out of the Sea-Doo Service Manual for that machine. Lots of people are reading inch-pounds as foot-pounds and are making critical mistakes. That’s why we’re starting to report all the torques as Nm in our new videos.
@@3ftDeepChannel minute 7:19 and 8:39 both tighten at 80 pounds
Crikey! Inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. 80 inch pounds is just under 7 foot pounds.
lbf.in dude. Not ft lbs. smh
Once you have rebuilt the supercharger, was there any power loss from the first couple of hours after the rebuild?
None
When reinstalling the supercharger, how will I know if I need the spacer washers???
We normally just replace the ones that come out where they came from, if there are any. If you have any doubt, check the parts diagram on Sea-Doo's website.
Does the supercharger vice stand thing come with the bearing pusher?
SBT sells a kit with all the tools you need in it.
How do you guys feel about the every 100 hrs OR 2 years guidance. Is it really necessary to rebuild the supercharger every two years if you are really only putting about 10-20 hours on the ski a year? Or should you primarily be tracking the 100 hr mark?
We don’t follow that guidance. Depending on your kit, you should be able to get 150 to 200 hours out of a new supercharger rebuild. If you don’t use it very often though, a rebuild every five years should be good in our opinion. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel I just rebuilt my 2016 with 103 hours. bearings and clutch's looked good but the plastic bearing retainers were pretty brittle. made it almost 7 years but I was getting nervous.
Thanks for the input, Jeramie. It’s that plastic bearing cage we’re worried about.
Which way is the spring washer curvature installed? Is the curve "C" (arc) shape of the spring washer pointing towards the supercharger or the "c" arc pointing away towards the rear? Your videos are amazing!
Clutch washer -----> ) ( ) ( ) ------> Collar ------> Nut
Is the collar and nut the ones in front of the turbine? Sorry to bother, if it wasn't for you. I'll never be able to fix my doo. Yamahas people call them Redoos. Like saying "fix them again." They're meanies!
The clutch part of the shaft goes into the engine. Hold the supercharger with the impeller on your left, the right side of the shaft, other end to the impeller, is assembled like this... Bearing ----> Shaft ----> Clutch washer ----> Gear and needle bearings ----> Clutch washer -----> ) ( ) ( ) ------> Collar ------> Nut.
I don't want to put you off working on your machine but this is not an area to experiment or make mistakes if any of these components are assembled incorrectly and fail the damage is very expensive to repair it would be a lot cheaper in the long run to pay to get the supercharger professionally rebuilt.
I just installed my supercharger again and checked the wheel for spin. It does not move at all! Is that a good thing?
What we'll are you referring to? The supercharger should spin freely before you install it. It engages with the engine when installed, so should be very difficult to turn after installed.
Could you give me the sizes of all the female torx sockets used for removal. Thanks.
8 is the Torx size used for the three bolts that hold the supercharger to the block and for the bolts on the supercharger housing. I have seen newer superchargers with 8mm bolt heads instead of Torx.
3ftDeep thank you so much.
Awesome video. Love all your content. How do you get the SC to come out so easily? I def have all the correct bolts out I’m able to turn it back and forth a bit and used a pry bar (carefully) which did create “some” space. But I can’t get this thing out for the life of me. Any tips? Thanks!
First make sure you got all the retaining screws out! As there are two O-rings holding it snugly, it does take some brute strength to get it out …but it shouldn’t be a huge ordeal. If it is, make sure nothing is blocking it from coming straight out. You shouldn’t need any tools (like a pry bar). Thanks for the kind words, and good luck!
@@3ftDeepChannel I have all 3 the retaining screws out…and it does move back and forth and has separated from about an inch off but it seems to just be the middle that is stuck on .
Hey guys, good video. I’m having a problem with the torque of the slip moment. The washers slip way before reaching the target. What have I done wrong?
I’m assuming this is a brand new supercharger kit? There could be a number of reasons for this, if so. First question, did you make absolutely sure to arrange the spring washers correctly?
@@3ftDeepChannel yes it’s a new kit and I removed the washers to check that I installed them correctly
Do you have any other suggestions?
Did you make sure to torque the Cap nut, first like we do in the video? Also, what is your slipping moment torque?
@3ftDeep If I were to remove my supercharger and bring it into a shop, and provide the rebuild kit...…….what is a reasonable amount of labour hours I should be charged?
one hour
how does this supercharger get lubes up whats the oiling system for the bearings?????
There are a few variations, but essentially with the 4-Tecs it gets tracked from the engine into the inner workings of the supercharger. In other words, it uses oil from the engine. That's why it's critical to use the right kind of oil in these engines, as the supercharger relies on its consistency.
(Sorry same question from other video) May I ask? Is there any way to take a supercharged 1503 ACE and tune it down to NA 1503? Or that requires fuel remap other then charger port block off. Secondly what is your opinion on WSM rebuild kits, they are about $100 less then OEM and come with steel clutch washers. Service mechanics will tell me no no they won't even touch the unit if it has aftermarket rebuild kit. I know metallurgy enough that slight difference in quality of steel multiplied by 40-50k RPM then converted to angular momentum on the shaft yeelds much higher numbers and less then perfect cristlatus of steal components under pressure and temperature can easily crack and come apart, but are third party SC kits truly that unreliable and risky or is it just an up sell tactic. I've changed an IAC valve to a third party brand for $40 while oem is $250 and so far it works just as good. I guess only time will tell but $40 vs $250 that is reasonable risk, while gamble on potentialy faulty kit that can cause catastrofic engine failure is too risky so i ask your advice are WSM kits any good? And more importantly is there any chance of running the the supercharged motor without a supercharger, obviously plugging that mounting port some how?
In case someone doesn't see our response to the other comment, here it is for this one: I wouldn't recommend trying to tune it down. As you suggest, there are a few tweaks to the engine system that would confound that sort of change. We've always used the OEM rebuild kits as we don't have the same level of confidence in non-OEM products ...especially when it comes to a supercharger that can spin up to 40,000 RPM. Considering how much damage a failed supercharger can cause, it's just not worth it. Good luck!
Is it possible to remove the upper deck, say split it from the lower hull? My 2004 4TEC has a lot of mold in hard the reach places and I’d like to thoroughly clean this winter. I think removing tbe upper half of the ski would make it much easier.
I wouldn’t think so. Normally they are glued together. There might be some models that are screwed together, but I haven’t seen any.
@@3ftDeepChannel okay thanks for the reply. I may have to live with the mold in hard to reach places!
Here's something we've done and it works well. Try spraying some of the "orange cleaner" (made from orange peel extracts) throughout your hull surface and leave it there for a few hours. Then lightly spray some water on the hull. Take it around the block a few times so the mixture sloshes around and leave it sealed under your seat for 24 hours. Rinse and drain well. Good luck!
@@3ftDeepChannel that’s a great idea, I’ll give it a try!! Thanks for all the help!
Sorry if I’m wrong but is that not a turbocharger, not a supercharger, I don’t know a lot about jetskis but I do about cars
That's a supercharger. It's driven directly from the engine, not the exhaust.
Hey guys. My retaining disk is stuck stuck. Broke a stainless extension, the 3/8 opening on the 4 pin tool is beginning to warp, and the retaining disk itself has a chip in the metal from the tool popping out on my last attempt. Any ideas other than heat. I understand get as much leverage as possible but if i dont push in on the 4 pin tool it pops out so easily…
My 4 pin tool was starting to do the same the pins were loose and the 3/8" opening was getting sloppy I bought a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter and had it welded on and the pins tack welded in place so there was no slop in the tool.
I had one rebuild where the disk was unusually hard to remove, heat the housing with a heat gun to loosen the thread locker, clamp the holder plate in a good solid vise and use a 3ft breaker bar it will come loose. If you get the tool welded up you can also try a 1/2" impact gun I found this only works if you get the tool fixed otherwise there is too much slop and the impact doesn't work as good.
Good Luck
Is this the same process for an 08 RXT 215?
Essentially. There can be some small differences, so best to follow a Service Manual for your machine when doing this.
How do you adjust the slip torque on these older ones if it’s too high? Mine is clear up in the 20s. Also the friction washers that came in my kit are slightly too large in the center opening. These seem to be the upgraded washers but I’m not sure if that’s normal. Doesn’t seem right to me.
That's a good question. We haven't experienced that issue before. It may be that it was assembled incorrectly or that the wrong kit was used. If things don't seem right you need to investigate. Remember, these things spin at very high RPMs and if they fail, the parts can go into the engine and do lots of damage. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel yep thanks. I’m gonna stick with the adage if it doesn’t look right it’s probably not and order a different kit.
Good man. Go for OEM …
Hi 3ftDeep. I have a real problem here. This rebuild was going smooth. I have all the special tools and know-how. Got to the point where new spacer sleeve slides on new shaft and it will not slide on! It slides down about 1.5 inches and seizes. I even tried freezing the shaft and heating the sleeve and when I was pushing it on, it totally seized to shaft and I cant even pull it off?! This is a new OEM SeaDoo kit. 4:45 in your video is what I’m referencing. Yours slides right on. Directions do not say but I was installing with the grooves facing gear like you did. Have you ever seen this? I’m STUCK. Literally. Thanks!
Hey Jason, Sorry to hear about your struggle. You shouldn't need heat for this. First, check to make sure you have the right kit for your machine. Did you get the OEM kit? Next, does the washer slide on? It's possible your shaft is bent slightly (although it's unlikely). Check it with an edge you know is absolutely straight (like a metal ruler). Good luck, and let me know.
I have the same issue. The washer slides on no problem. The kit is correct for my 08 255 rxp. The shaft and spacer are out of the same package. The shaft is not bent. However there is a slight ridge on the shaft that seems to stop the spacer from sliding on. I checked the old shaft and there is a ridge on it as well in the same spot on the shaft but not as pronounced. I also tried the old spacer on the new shaft and it slides on very easily. Perhaps too easily as it seem a bit sloppy compared to the fit on the old shaft. The new spacer will not go on the old shaft at all, too small. I am trying to freeze the shaft and heat the spacer now. I would think that if all of the parts are on the same blister pack that they should fit. It’s difficult to return the kit if half of the parts have been installed.....
You really should contact Sea-Doo directly and find out what the heck is going on. These parts must fit correctly! Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel thanks. I did notice that on the old spacer there is one groove milled into it near the end of it. On the new spacer there are two grooves. Maybe this spacer is for a different kit and it was put in this kit by accident. I will call BRP on Monday.
Please let us know what you find out. This is very disconcerting. Maybe they don’t even know they have an issue.
I have a GTX 185 4TEC, believe it’s a 2004. Today I pulled the supercharger and drained water out of the engine. The ski is new to me and I’d like to test the engine before spending money on a supercharger rebuild. Do you know if I could test run the engine without the supercharger installed?
In theory, it should be possible if the port is properly sealed. It will likely not run properly though, as the engine is expecting the extra air.
@@3ftDeepChannel thanks for the quick reply. I reinstalled the supercharger and am going to test compression and hopefully run the engine tomorrow!
Good luck!
Sirs; Thank you for all the great very helpful videos.
Re this supercharger rebuild;
1) Seadoo dealer never heard of Super Lube, 293 550 030
crosses to loctite LB superlube, they use BelRay waterproof,
what do you use ?
2) I also have 2005 GTX 185, did not notice 3 spacers when removed,
SC to Eng, was rebuilt in 2010 at dealer, when are they required ?
Thank You Very Much.
I'm not surprised that the dealer has never heard of a product that they're supposed to use in each supercharger rebuild. I've found that they often have none of the screws available that they're supposed to replace every time they remove the iBR (although I'm sure they charge for them). I suggest just using whatever the dealer uses, as we often use whatever's laying around that's close, and it seems to work perfectly. I suggest looking at the parts fiche on Sea-Doo's website to see what's supposed to be in your supercharger. Not sure if this link will take you there: www.sea-doo.com/ca/en/shop/essentials/parts-.html. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thank You for the reply. I did as you suggested & looked at Seadoo parts diagrams but did not see any spacers, supercharger to engine, for 2005 models, still confused as to why you used them on this 2005, unless just example ? Thanks Again
@@bsmith5709 Sorry, I think I misunderstood your question. The supercharger kit we purchased included instructions that stated to use the spacers when installing on older models. The newer models didn't require the spacers. Not sure if it's the rebuild kit (which is OEM), the engine block or the supercharger that is different, but that's what the instructions said. Good question, though! Thanks for your comment.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thank You again sir. I spoke to the shop manager at PWC Muscle, he told me that the spacers requirement, supercharger to engine, depends on which SC housing you have, by casting number. If needed they superglue them on. He also told me that the grease should GO ON THE O-RINGS, so they do not dry tear, and at base to help seal. I note manual just says "sealing surface". 10 Nms = 89 lbf-in, my 2005 manual says 10 Nm for one of the 3 screws, no note for another, and 30 Nm for the one on top, I am hoping it is an error.
Thanks for the update, and good luck.
In your video are you adding Isoflex grease to both bearings? (packing them) or just a dab? also is there anywhere else you are applying it? looks like you are just coating the outside of the bearing. I just want to make sure I do it right.
Geo Sto Both sealed bearings get some engine oil (i.e. no Isoflex) applied onto them so they fit easier into the housing. The needle bearing get a generous amount of the Isoflex grease. It's used to get the bearings to stick to the shaft during assembly, but also to reduce friction -especially before the engine oil gets circulating. Be generous. You should also apply some onto the shaft for the friction washers, needle pin, and lock washer. Don't use a substitute!
Ah...great advise. I notice in the new kit # 881102 that the needle bearings are no longer placed on wax but instead inside two plastic sleeves ( looks like regular roller bearings ) but when you install them the sleeves are designed to get pushed out. Much better set-up. I ordered the grease and super lube. Already have a bench press and tools so should be straight forward. The videos you provide are great!
Geo Sto BTW...on the latest OEM rebuild kits for the 215's and up you will need the needle bearing push tool # 529-036-237 that does not come standard with the rebuild tool kits you see out.
Geo Sto Thanks for the tip. I think that's why Chris elected to do it by hand. As long as you have good eyes and a steady hand, you can assemble them manually, but using a bearing pusher would be easier and safer.
I've got a 150 speedster 215hp rotax supercharger to be rebuilt. Is this the same?
They're generally the same, but you need to make sure you're getting the right kit for your year and model (we suggest getting it from Sea-Doo through your local dealer). There are some differences. The good news is they've upgraded them over time so your new rebuild kit likely contains superior parts. Good luck.
Great video. If you had the same machine as in video with 88 hours on it and being 13 years old do you think the supercharger should be rebuilt because of the time frame? Thanks
I wouldn't rebuild a newer (i.e. up to 2016 model) machine until I had at least 150 hours on it, but no later than 200 hours. But if you have a 2005 model I would definitely rebuild the supercharger, as it almost certainly has the old failure-prone ceramic washers. In fact, I wouldn't even start it up again until the supercharger was rebuilt. Supercharger washer failure can cause a lot of damage to your engine. Good luck.
Hi there: Had the supercharger rebuilt and wear ring replaced. Just wonder what you got out of your 2005 GTX supercharged for top speed. Thanks
My 2003 supercharged 185 GTX could only reach about 58 mph.
Thank you
So if when I pulled the supercharger out from the engine, there was not a gear that came out with it? What would that mean. I’ve got an 04 rxp and an 05 rxt that this was the same case with. No gear on the supercharger. Would anyone know why that might be? And I would imagine that could be why it wasn’t building any boost. Bought the pair of machines that this way, all I’ve done is take the superchargers off. Any insight would be incredible
It could be bad news. Do you know if the supercharger was ever rebuilt. If so, how many hours ago?
Gear is inside the engine? That is the bad case scenario. Could be engine carnage inside.
Does the hard to reach bolt thread into the engine mount? It broke off and I have the other two bolts removed from SC but cant get the SC to budge out of the engine or twist. Any suggestions?
If the head has broken off that screw and the other screws have been removed, you should be able to remove the super by pulling straight back. It's held in there very tightly with 2 big O-rings, so you'll need to pull back quite hard (be careful). A lot of people change the screw to one with a proper head to make removal easier the next time. Good luck!
@@3ftDeepChannel What's the easiest way to check my engine is aligned and mounts/bushings haven't failed? I am about to try n get the supercharger out but it appears I dont have enough clearance and I am super close to driveline boot. Thinking this may be why I can't move it. Never had any issues with the ski though..
I'm not sure if it's the easiest, but here's how to check your alignment the most accurate way ...th-cam.com/video/T1jRZ6QTH5I/w-d-xo.html
Hi, do you know the specs of the three bolts holding the supercharger onto the engine? I want to replace them all with hex heads since all the Torx heads are stripped
Sorry, I don't have the specs for those bolts, but I can tell you that for my GTR 215 they're Flanged Torx Screw M6 X 35. Quite a few people replace them with hex head screws without problems. Good luck.
In theory, yes but these ones don’t seem to be critical. I’ve heard of lots of people replacing the screws and have seen some myself, and I’ve never heard of any problems.
How long they last ? someone is telling me the slip clutch is now slipping
With a new rebuild kit, they should last you between 150 and 200 hours.
Hey man I bought the rebuild kit from the dealer and installed it exactly how you demonstrated for some reason the kit had 3 extra washers and they don’t even fit on the shaft... and they didn’t give me the washer that goes before the cap nut so I reused the old one and after I torqued down both nuts on each side I try to turn the shaft with my hand and it won’t move at all is that normal?
The three small washers are spacers for the older supercharger housings they go between the supercharger and the block the instructions describe which supercharger housings require the spacers. The newer kits don't have the washer for the cap nut as the new style cap nut has the washer built in I would remove the old washer you installed. Without the supercharger installed the shaft should spin freely after the rebuild so something is not correct maybe a bearing is not seated properly and is binding when the nuts are tightened it's important that the impeller nut gets tightened before the clutch side nut if you have to take it apart the bearings will need to be replaced you can't disassemble the supercharger without risking damage to the bearings. All of this info is in the instructions that come with every oem rebuild kit.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thank you for the reply! The problem was I didn’t clean out the old loctite for the retaining disc and I went back and cleaned it out and it fixed the problem but I used the old washer with new nut and already installed it and started it up and the engine sounds the same it doesn’t rev up all the way do you think the jet pump could be the culprit? I sucked up dirty water and a rock like a idiot and shorty after it would only go 30-40 mph.
Will you feel any difference after rebuilding the supercharge at all?
It depends on why it was rebuilt. If you’ve been experiencing a loss of power, you will feel a return to normal power. If it’s being rebuilt because it’s an older model with ceramic washers, then probably you won’t feel any difference.
great job:)
Thanks! We appreciate the feedback.
how do you torque the top e8 bolt on reassemble?
I assume you mean the difficult-to-access Torx M6x35 screw that bolts the supercharger to the engine. We don't torque that one. We just snug it up as tight as we can. Good luck.
can't seem to get my retainer disk off, any tips?
They can be a little stubborn. Use some heat with a heat gun, and a little extra leverage. Make sure you’re using the proper tool, too. Good luck.
Which spay paint did you used for the supercharged? Because I would like to paint the piston head, which paint is good ??@3ftDeep
We didn't paint the supercharger; some years came that colour. If I were to paint the piston head, I would have it powder coated by a professional. It's not too expensive, it'll look great and it'll last a lot longer. Good luck.
Thanks a lot!, your videos are always helpful!👍
Do you know if the 2013 GTR215 is still using the needle bearings or has that been updated in the rebuild?
I dont need to yet but i found such a great deal on the rebuild kits I bought two of them . I figure next season I will need to rebuild. I have a bearing press so this should help some. In your build during video I see you placing needle bearings and I did not open my kit but I do not see any through the package,
Geo Sto As far as I know the kits are the same (i.e. still using the needle bearings).
Geo Sto The needle bearings are packaged on a wax strip as a block, so they may be there but just not recognizable. I doubt they would have replaced them, as the kits seem to only vary by number of teeth on the drive gear.
Is there a break in time after you rebuild the supercharger?
Ben King Good question. If there is, we're not going to respect it. Thanks for your comment!
hi, have you ever had any issues with the bearings feeling "gritty" when on the shaft and in the housing but one a bit of oil is applied it feels fine? is this normal. cheers awesome vids by the way..
I have noticed a difference, but it's not too extreme. I assume you're referring to when the bearings are new. If they've got more than 100 to 150 hours on them and you've got it apart, I assume you wouldn't put them back in feeling "gritty", even if they feel smooth with a bit of oil.
3ftDeep these are on the new bearings installed that I have just installed on the shaft and in the housing, cheers Rob
What model torque wrench do you use? The one with the dial.
It's a brand that's essentially the same company as "Snap-On", but less expensive. I've added a link to it in the description below. Whatever you buy, make sure it has the dial so you can see the torque being applied.
What brand/part number torque wrench do you use to check for supercharger slip, id like to be able to check mine annually on my own to know if i should send it to be rebuilt
www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKXOQC/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=3ftdspor-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=8736ccdc98edd2ad1fb7926f0cd1b621&creativeASIN=B000KKXOQC
It’s only necessary to check the slip if you feel you’re losing power. If your supercharger hasn’t been rebuilt for over 200 hours, or five years, it should be rebuilt regardless of how it slips. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel ah ok thank you, theres only 10 hrs on my 215 crate engine and freshly rebuilt supercharger, im just paranoid about supercharger failure now lol do you have any experience running amzoil marine oil in supercharged 4 tecs? They claim it meets all oem specs and is perfectly safe for the superchargers
I haven’t run that oil in my machine, but you need to be very careful to match the semi-synthetic blend that BRP’s pushing. Personally, I always go with the OEM stuff. That way I’m certain I’m giving my engine and supercharger exactly what they need. If that supercharger was rebuilt properly and it was done recently, you should have lots of life left on it and I wouldn’t bother with checking the slip until it’s got at least 100 hours on it. Good luck.