We saved a trip crossing the Simpson Desert in Australia by using some fencing wire to increase the bulk in the clutch pack. The clutch was burnt out 100kms from Big Red. After the fencing wire pressure plate was added, it was ridden to Poeppel Corner, then up the Hay River Track and then home to Melbourne. Over 2900 kms.
For some reason it sounds to me like you stumbled onto an improvement in multiplate clutch models. I picture you installed it like a clockspring ? Anyway, if there's an improvement to be found at least you made it keep going on the journey of a lifetime. As it would be for most who'll see your account here! What motorcycle were you riding?
I expect oldmate just wound some fencing wire between a friction plate and steel to close up the gap haha, maybe I missed you're comments' sarcasm I can't tell :P pretty epic tale I agree, my only real outback breakdown was another rider blowing a headgeasket and me towing him ~100km to help with a ratchet strap between the footpegs. A bush mechanics clutch fix with fencing wire is way cooler and definitely one I'll remember too :) - I'm placing me guess it was a DR650??
@@HoagesMoto Were you on our trip?? :-) Yes it was a Dr650, killed by a young bloke used to riding motocross bikes (and driving to the local bike store for bits). The fencing wire (last thing I packed before we left for the trip) was fashioned into a circle that was then inserted into the clutch pack and everything was bolted back together.
@@BrakeMagazinehere is a much better alternative. The extra clutch plate just add it to the stack as per usual assembley. Or even better add some washers to the springs to effectively make them longer and this should get you to a shop where you can replace the clutch
Rather than snapping fiber rings. Bend one of the metal plates in a couple of places and make a wave in it. It will take up more space and act like a diaphragm spring. I have done this mid Enduro race and completed the rest of the race with no noticeable difference in clutch performance.
Uh... why not carry an entire clutch disk set? They don't weigh much, and if you're going to go through the trouble of disassembling the clutch just go ahead and replace the disks and ride on. It's amazing to me how some of these "adventure riders" go out into the bush and wild places without being absolutely prepared.
because clutches are a gradual wear item and competent riders that know their bike will catch a little clutch slip before it gets bad and adjust their riding style to prevent it worsening OR jam the basket in one of many techniques to get out of trouble - a clutch plate set weighs up to 1kg which is an insane amount of weight to carry on a dirtbike/light advbike for a wear product people not racing will mostly detect gradual failure and be able to nurse a bike through a trip.
@@HoagesMoto You don't go out in the wilds of AFRICA unprepared for a failed clutch... The friction disks of the clutch kit weigh next to nothing, you don't need the steels because they hardly ever fail and lots of people just re-use them after scuffing them up with 220 grit sandpaper. You have made no logical point here. You can burn your clutch out quick in the muddy areas of Africa and you need to be prepared for that. Adjustment wont mean anything when you have burned the clutch out in 5 miles of mud... BE PREPARED. KNOW YOUR MOTORCYCLE. CARRY AN ELECTRICAL SCHEMATIC AND REPAIR MANUAL ON YOUR PHONE. DON'T GO OFF INTO A REMOTE AREA LIKE A DAMN FOOL. Have a nice day.
There's always a bush repair that will get you going again until you can do a proper repair. It helps to have a good imagination and all the tools you might need.
She has hammered that little Honda since Morocco and when she headed for the Eye of the desert in all that sand she was smashing the clutch. She admitted that the clutch was slipping before the mud run. We enjoy watching her videos as they are educational and fun. I would like to see some of the guys posting here do do what she does and keep a smile on your face. Noraly is welcome in our camp any time.
@BrakeMagazine i think alot of the negativity is due to jealousy. Hats off to her, shes out there living her life her way, doing what she enjoys. One of the reasons I enjoy watching her is she accepts the challenges and struggles and does what she can given her knowledge and experience to just keep going but also knowing when its time to quit and have a few days break which is a skill within itself. Shes one of the many people who motivated me to get my licence and a bike. I always loved bikes but they scared the crap out of me, but watching people like her just giving things a go willing to mess up, make mistakes and keep trying was what inspired me the most. After a few weeks of riding its less scary but still very new and learn something different every single time i ride and absolutely loving it, speaking of which time to get off the internet and go for a ride haha Btw thank you very much for taking the time to make this video, reminds me of driving home with a snapped axle and also a burnt clutch in the car which I drove the same way clutchless shifting and take off with it in gear using the starter motor. Probably why i found it faily easy back when i learnt how to drive trucks from those kind of previous experiences :)
@@jamie.miller.inspiring Get yourself enrolled in a beginner training course & it will get even more fun on many levels. In a year's time, do the same with an advanced course. See also David Hough's "Proficient Motorcycling" book & it's sequel. They're priceless.
I wish I had seen this video 2 years ago! It would have saved me so much trouble in Argentinean Patagonia... Thanks so much for the effort you put into your videos, it really shows up.
in noralys case,the clutch on the crf 300 rally is a known weakspot - so in her case ,it was bound to happen,the solution is to replace the stock crf300 complete assembly whit the one from the crf 250l combined whit steel and frictionplates and heavy duty springs from the cbr 300 - fits right in,and has one more frictionplate,and 5 springs instead of just 3
Good suggestion. I think Noraly needs some guidance on when to do maintenance and when to upgrade for known troubled areas on stock bikes. She does a great job beating the snot out of stock bikes.
The first minutes provide a great explanation for how a clutch works. I learned a thing or two. Especially when you pulled on the clutch with the cover off. Awesome reference for all and new riders, or anyone repairing their own clutch. Great video and theories put into practice.
There is a more subtle way to handle the early state of this problem. Add a few washers under or on top of the springs. That way you increase the pre-load on the spring and thus adding friction. Used this method a number of times, learned it in tuned old types of motorcycles that didn't have stronger springs or more friction plates available.
Thanks for the informative video. I think a lot of riders - especially those who ride BDRs here in the States or anywhere you’re going deep in the backcountry can learn how to save space and have something just as you described it, to get you out of a bad situation and hopefully help you get somewhere where you can properly work on the bike… cheers! 🍻👍✌️
Nice video - could save some folks a lot of bother. I had a similar problem with my first big bike halfway in to work in London. After waiting all day for a tow truck, the tow truck guy let me in on a trick that would have saved me next time: carry a spare clutch cable, passed through the route of the existing one, gaffa taped or zip-tied to the current one. Time to repair then is a matter of seconds on the road as you connect the ends of the new cable in where the old one went & strip out the old one. Once you get to the repair shop, just buy a new spare & tie it in place as before.
Good tip, and one I've used a lot, especially on my old 400 single, which destroyed cables on a regular basis. Only thing is, it's not helpful in the situation described in the video.
I would say, from what Norley's video showed, that guy who helped her did it very well. Not many could done it better in that condition. An under powered bike in thick mud will wear the clutch. Not like the clutch was new at the beginning either.
I honestly can’t believe how anyone would take on the kind of trips Itchy Boots does without really good mechanical knowledge of their machine,and how to deal with all the common issues that WILL happen when you’re doing those sorts of mileage.on my 16th Birthday I went out about 6 in the morning on my DT50MX super excited I rode about 40 miles and my Clutch cable snapped,I got home fine riding clutch less but all my bikes now have a spare cable zip tied to the existing one.Great video !
Nice to see someone trying to educate the masses. I've had to do something similar on a couple of occasions when I've broken either the clutch lever or snapped a clutch cable on my daily ride - a 1977 Yamaha XT500 ! You know, one of those bikes that actually won a Dakar (or two). Now there's a bike you don't really want to have to do the "run & jump" manoeuvre too many times.
Reminds me of my old vw's breaking a clutch cable, your brain quickly finds a route home w/o any stop signs!.. If not, use the starter in 1st or push for a roll!
In ‘02 the clutch on my DR750S went silence in the middle of my vacation in the south of France. French mechanics refused to repair my problem and I couldn’t get hold of new parts. So I decided to do what’s needed at the time and that was riding my bike for 1200 km without a clutch. Through the traffic, the French way. It’s a walk in the park as soon you let go of any fear and refuse to care about anything. No questions were asked at the borders
I tried the No1 method of dropping the bike into 1st at standstill when I had broken a clutch cable. Bike went into gear nicely but did not move forward as it just sheared the main gearbox shaft. The bike was an old Aermacchi Harley Davidson Scooter, so probably not a strong gearbox, but worth a warning as to what can happen.
Two points there: · She was stuck in deep mud where you couldn't just jump the bike into motion. If Alaska had a big chunk more of power, the rear wheel could have done the slipping instead of the clutch, but there obviously is the limit of the low cc engine light weight bike: There's only so much oomph available for flinging mud out off the way. That may have been the reason for her exploration of different bikes during her Africa break. (And boy, does the Himalayan 452 look promising there!) All in all the CRF 300R still seems to offer more advantages than shortcomings to her and mud is only one of several obstacles she had to deal with. · The entire clutch assembly had to be replaced in the end. She didn't discuss the exact failure in detail, but apparently the damage was deeper than just burnt clutch plates. Maybe the forks of the outer case had worked in beyond their limits and lifted the clutch with dents, maybe there was something wrong with the slipper clutch mechanism, maybe that, maybe, maybe. One of the problems when you burn any clutch is that the material on the surface changes. The steel parts get oxidised, the organic material chars. This affects the friction coefficient. Especially with bikes where the clutch runs in oil and there is loads of carbohydrates available for charring. The charred oil makes a gooey slippery consistency and is stuck to the surface of the clutch and goes deeply into the pores of the material. I have no way of knowing if my idea will actually work in the African outback, but what I imagine would be a good temporary fix: Find yourself some really high percentage moonshine and dump the clutch plates into it, Give them the best possible clean in the stuff, then try sanding off the top layer of oxidation if the steel parts are discoloured. The alcohol should dissolve most of the charred oil and thus both get this source of lubricant that may inhibit force transmission out of the way and also, as the built up charred oil increased the surface touching the other side of the clutch, increase the area load on the bits of clutch surface that may actually transfer force to a level where it may work again. While this obviously will not be a full repair, it just may get you going until you reach a point where you can get a garage and spares. If grinding was involved, the parts need an extremely good rinse, obviously (again), as you want none of these hard particles in your oil.
Another tip - when your clutch starts to go, use lower gears to limit the load the clutch needs to handle (not 6th gear like I.B.). Even a slow limp in 1st gear is better than pushing. Bikes using a hydraulic clutch can also try cracking the clutch line to release built up pressure - hot clutch fluid will put a preload on the slave cylinder, inducing slip.
So what allows the slip is the reduced friction because the plates can move slightly side to side. When you increase that friction by making the stack of plates bigger then none of them can slide or move. In the comments you'll see lots of other ingenious ways to solve the same problem. Leather shoelaces, wire etc.@@dznnf7
These driving techniques are also useful in case you can't control your clutch, such as a snapped cable or a broken lever if you don't want / can't stop to ammend the situation. Maybe you are a few Km from your destination and you want to deal with it in the hotel or at a shop. Doubling a snapped plate to direct-drive the bike is just brilliant. BTW the lighter your bike is, the easier it will be on the transmission and the starter, unless it is overengineered.
If you hold a tiny bit of throttle on and hold the brake then downshift it can be achieved almost seamlessly. Basically as it transitions between gears it revs up for a split second and goes down a gear much easier. Same works for clutchless downshifts on road in general. Run down the rev range lower than you usually would, to say 2000-2500 rpm, braking, throttle not completely cut, in a position that would give you say 2500 rpm of free rev, and then with some preload on the gear lever it’ll generally just shift without the slightest issue. On some bikes 1st to 2nd can be very clunky up and down without the clutch. On my Honda VFR1200 I just pause in neutral very briefly instead of shifting straight up or straight down, and it makes all the difference.
Good thing to note is that Noraly didn't actually ruin the clutch, an over enthousiastic local did while trying to help her out. (Correct me if i'm wrong/ taking in consideration that driving such terrain will wear your clutch faster than normal use) Other than that, great video, I will keep this in mind for the extremely sticky situations. Would rather not treat my bike like that. Keep it going
You are correct the bike was mid calf deep in mud, and a young man burned up the clutch getting it out of the mud. He attempted to move it like the 200 lb light bikes, but with her luggage extra gas tank, etc that 331 lb bike of hers must be close to 42 and burned out the clutch.
Great tips, thank you. I had a Clutch Master Cylinder fail (the seals went) Baja early a run from from Tecate to Cabo and back on a KTM 525. I ended up stopping on rises of small hills to facilitate easier starts whenever possible. On steep descents, I covered the the kill switch. Did nearly a 1,000 miles that way until I found a replacement in a what was essentially a Motorsports junkyard.
Super cool trick when you're riding on flat terrain. Itchy Boots was riding through mud and water, up and down the hills. I don't think riding without a clutch will work in that type of terrain. Correct me if I'm wrong.
On the terrain that finally fried it she wasn't even the one operating Alaska when it was happened, a local got her bike through the mud and was quite aggressive on the clutch to do it, she tried to tell him to go easy but she knew she wasn't as likely to be able to get through. It was unfortunate but you are correct that welding the clutch and using clutchless starts the on that mudbog of a road would not have been practical. After she got onto better roads thoug she was struggling slipping clutch and the broken friction disk trick could have got her to her Abidjan. Also the idea of carrying one spare friction disk mounted somewhere on the bike could have helped.
Great video and road side effort, thank you! And great tips of others in the comments too! I have applied the starter motor one due to a broken clutch cable until we could fix it with half of the village helping out! Great people in Bosnia!
I ride a Buell Ulysses, which is this weird Harley powered ADV. Had that happen but Harley was actually smart for once. There's an adjuster rod you can max out to force the plates together, saved my booty and takes 5min.
On every bike that I've owned that had them (and there have been quite a few) I have always removed and bypassed the clutch nanny switch, the sidestand nanny switch, and the neutral lockout nanny switch. Not only are these things a real nuisance to an experienced rider, but they also tend to fail at the worst possible time. With all these switches bypassed, you can start the bike in gear with the clutch out.
I am a very experienced rider (Been riding 40 years, never had a car, 130,000 miles on the current bike alone) and I still sometimes go into gear with the side-stand down. So I keep the side-stand switch. Maybe this is partly due to never having had a side-stand switch problem. Which is pretty impressive thinking about it, given the age and milage of my bikes.
What you suggest is the last thing to do, only when there's no more hope. On the other hand, an extra clutch metal disc, will save you 99% of the times. It will apply more pressure. The clutch will have a second life (not just few hundreds kilometers, but thousands and thousands). Fact is, if you're an offroad beginner like Itchy boots, you will keep burning clutches on and on. Experience helps a lot to preserve the mechanical parts. That's what we do in rallies. You can't win a rally if you don't reach the end ;-)
@@allanschuster3520 She's a traveller. A lot of respect for what she does. But in terms of offroad skills, she's a beginner. Check who's not a beginner: th-cam.com/video/DiAtmNfCGVc/w-d-xo.html First woman ever to finish Dakar in malle moto class (no mechanical assistance). Also Vanessa Ruck, has been improving a lot in the last couple of years. Also my girlfriend, who attended GS trophy last year, isn't a beginner. Most of the times, travellers know very little about offroad riding, but they have the guts to take and go. That's cool too.
She's no Dakar racer, but I can't remember any time where she burned her clutch? Even in the subject video it was a friendly local who burned her clutch.
I would love to see more of these dakar tricks. Right now im building up a xr 650 r to ride trough africa with it. These tricks could literally save my life in the future...
Make sure you get the seasons correct when going through West Africa; Noraly got it wrong by arriving in the wet season. In November and December, it's still very green with no rain, plenty of deep sand where the wadies are, and no mosquitoes to worry about either. As this video shows, carry a spare set of clutch plates and a cable taped to the original in case it breaks. I made longer and wider foot pegs for my bike, as you will be standing up a lot. Add a bit more oil to your crankcase too, as it gets very hot here, or add an oil cooler. Water cooling: you can buy an anti-boil additive in most countries. (Abro tropical coolant). Noraly was always concerned about the quality of gasoline sold on the road. People buy it from the petrol station and resell it for a small profit in 250-ml to 4-litre (1-gallon) containers to the locals when the petrol station runs out. I've been in Ghana for 10 years myself and enjoy riding year-round. If you make it to Ghana, you are invited. I'm in a town called Tease (te ah see) in the Eastern Region. Just ask for the white man with tattoos at the police station, and they will direct you. I have a motorcycle parts shop and sell petrol from a table top. 😁👍🏼 The people are really friendly, and the food is good.
All the simps blaming the guy for burning Noraly's clutch .... Sure. He only rides those roads daily, his whole life, to get food and water. But let's just ignore the fact Noraly edits the videos any way she likes, and just blame the local guy because thats what Noraly chose to show us.
@@BrakeMagazine conjecture is blaming the local without exercising your critical faculties to such extent that you realise there are hours of footage you didn't see. Textbook conjecture.
Thank you! I,ve ridden my bike without a clutch, when my clutch wire snapped, but I didn’t know about the fixed clutch trick. My friends doing moto-cross told me they never would use the clutch, except at starting off.
I believe noraly stated that the clutch would have had the same fate if she herself had ridden it through that mud, correct me if I am wrong but when in Alaska she had modification's carried out on her bike, wasn't one a light weight competition clutch , she at that time was intending to ues her bike on the Baha , an advantage for short term high performance,but not so durability, as for me in that situation I would put up the drone and found a navigable route through on the firmer periphery. but reality is what it is. Seasonal greetings to you all.🙏🎄❄️☃️
I really like that idea but there must be a good reason why she sticks to the roads. Maybe it’s muddy under all the grass? Clearly no one else attempts that either.
One many BMWs, even as far back as 2004, the ECU is looking for the clutch position switch to CHANGE from 'engaged' to 'disengaged' after the bike is switched on. This prevents a rider from shorting the switch to 'always disengaged' to bypass safety measures. This could have been why you couldn't do the starter trick with the Suzuki.
Great video. I imagine many of us have had a road bike fall over and broken the clutch lever. I remember having to ride home from a bbq without a clutch on my NS125. Fun part was having to come to stop at some lights then get of the bike and run with it before kicking it into gear, with a police car sat behind me at the lights. didn't know about the inserting a broken clutch plate trick. That's a nice one to know. 👍🏼
Some riders carry a small Vice-Grip / locking pliers to use as a quick lever replacement, as long as your broken lever has enough of a nub left on it for the pliers to grip. Deployment takes seconds & off you go.
As I a school kid, I learnt to ride on Salisbury plain, we had a 1970s Suzuki TS100 with no clutch or front brake. hours of fun, I see you were at Red Horn going back towards, Upavon. PS Hard to blip a throttle without a clutch, gets a bit lurchy.
When she got the bike back from the gentleman that got it through the most difficult mud, she stated the clutch didn't begin to engage until the lever was almost totally released. Had it been properly adjusted at that time, I'll bet she'd still have a clutch. Clutch plates only wear when they're slipping, you don't ride around with an improperly adjusted clutch unless you don't know how to adjust it or you want trouble. There's gotta be some free play or slack in the cable for the clutch to be fully engaged. From looking at the video, there was a lot of adjustment room still available in the cable.
Awesome tricks! I just wanted to point out that both of these are a continuum, like you can do all three of pushing, downhill, with the starter button pressed, for the easiest possible load on the bike. And for shifting down it makes it smoothest to go really slow, apply some throttle to get the motor starting to rev up under its own power, and downshift at the same moment, to minimize the change in acceleration when the wheel starts engine braking to the new higher RPM. It's similar principle to getting the bike rolling before putting it in gear. Just smoothness is the key, same as with riding clutchless. but if you've ever watched Moto Gymkhana (Lexco has a great video on their techniques, which really carry over to a lot of types of riding), they don't use the clutch for all of those crazy manuevers. So it's definitely something that can be practiced for fun and can even become your preference, once you stop relying on the clutch because it's there.
Honda CRF 250/300 have lousy baby-sized clutch and to cope with it they put a second adjuster on cable. We salvaged once clutch by sawing off a nut on inline adjuster to increase cable travel, no washers to shim springs were needed.
Man having to snap a fibre disc and assymetrically load the basket springs is LOOSE but pretty awesome. For those not racing when you next open your clutch cover for any kind of maintenance or inspection - check your clutch spring ID & OD and pack suffcient washers to preload the whole spring set a few mm - no risk of basket damage and will save a ride if you catch a slippage, let the bike cool down and fit them before to much damage is done. Carrying a full clutch even on a remote ride is pretty rediculous for riders that have mechanical sympathy/ understand what heat and continued slippage will result in. Carrying 5-15 choice size washers that might save the day when you don't listen to your bikes warning signs for a weight penalty of ~50g in trip luggage might be a smart move for you or someone else where the terrain/climate/rider warrants it :)
I helped a workmate move her VW Beetle with a broken clutch starting on the starter and clutch less shifting plus stall at the lights. Was only a couple of kilometres. I also practise clutches up and down shifting on my bike when conditions are right. But great tip about the plates 👍
The idea is to prevent the two types of clutch plate from being able to turn relative to each other , or 'lock' them together . First off you need to open up the clutch and remove one plate ( I think that some of us might want to examine their manual , consult a friend , or the road side services , before doing this at all to be honest , but it is simple enough if you have some mechanical skill == do not blame me or anyone else if you fail at this or cause any damage to yourself or your property thank you ==) . The method to lock the clutch plates in this situation is to break one plate and use the two halves to wedge the other plates together , by placing one broken half over the other broken half between any of the other remaining plates in any position in the clutch basket . Now you need to reassemble the clutch baskets and springs . By not allowing both types of clutch plate to turn due the wedge created , one type with external lugs and the other with external lugs remember , the two half of the clutch are locked together , just as if the clutch control lever at the handle bars was disengaged , ie as it would be to drive the rear wheel . Problem now is , hey , you have no clutch control and need to learn to how to cope . Return to the video once more for that advice . My advice , for peps driving road bikes anyway , is pull in your clutch lever and check for fraying wires before and after each ride ; usually the clutch cable will provide a bit of warning by fraying a bit before total failure . My clutch cable snapped on an old Laverda , some years ago , and I drove maybe ten miles to my friendly garage . Not for the feint hearted ! Lol . I would not try this at all on a bike you are not very familiar with . Incidentally , lol , I had a final drive chain snap and fall to the road causing no noise or damage to my bike once . Since the engine revved fine , but there was no drive , I thought I had a failed clutch . I was most surprised to see no chain attached ... it was a dark night out in the sticks . Found the chain a hundred yards back and fitted a new spring link that I carried as a spare . Phew ! All the best in 2024 .
As a preventive measure clean the glue between the disc pads and polish (better oil circulation) seeing tips on Trial UK forum (if I remenber). I did it on Trial (Beta Techno 250), very smooth cool easy... (Techno was was too brutal, and stalled in 1st gear)
Don't carry a fiber plate instead carry a extra metal. If slipping starts double the metal plates (2 metals between the fibers instead of 1) in the center of the pack. Your clutch will operate just like a brand new clutch again. I've ridden hundreds of miles on clutch packs with 2 metals stacked in the center on multiple bikes over the years.
Make sure you really understand how your clutch works, and what effect the clutch free-play adjustment has on the cable, and actuation mechanism. In most cases when the clutch starts slipping, re-adjusting the clutch free-play will reduce the slipping. As will letting it cool down.
i had the clutch mechanism fail on my old 600 gsf and due to the tip by a fellow friend with the starter motor I was able to drive back home. its quite weird at first, but you'll get used to it.
I would have cut up an old metal tin and made a dummy steel plate to pack it all out a bit further and take up the slack, or even put a couple of extra washers from elsewhere on the bike, under the spring nuts, to force it together until I could get a set of new plates FedExed to the next town. Of course I dont have a pile of CRF clutch plates in front of me to experiment with, but I would have figured it out somehow, because I have a good imagination, and and am also mechanically minded after 45 years of swinging spanners on bikes. Noraly didn't get stuck for long though and is still inspiring people the world over.
Noraly is welcome at my camp fire any time. She is extreamly brave woman and has road some of the roughest roads and trails they are. In my best days of overe 55 years riding dirt and cross country, I got to admit I would struggle to have went where she has. She is a very special person and even David Attenborough could not have done better of showing us the world, people, we live in and around.
I've seen a guy do this, burnt clutch plates so he added another plate for like another layer w it and runs smoothly. Never knew Dakar uses this method too.
All good points, and in the comments below. But a simple point to make is don't ride the clutch in those conditions, either in or out. The engine and oil will get hot, give the bike time to cool down and clear that mud out while waiting. I know, easy to say, but you only need to burn out the clutch once for the lesson to be learnt. I was young, riding with my older brother and his mate in a swampy area, second lesson to carry a salt shaker or cigarettes to deal with the leeches.😨
A simpler "gimmick" is to come up with some washers to put under the bolts that hold the clutch and basket together to increase the preload pressure on the clutch springs. Maybe she can scrounge them off the bike itself, other vehicles, or carry them around in her pocket for the next time this happens. The CRF300 has a ramp style slipper clutch and only 3 springs. It is reasonably easy to upgrade this arrangement in the 300 with a conventional clutch system.
Great idea but if the clutch isn't worn but just glazed from cooking it you aren't helping much other than putting more preload on the clutch. I always baby the clutch off road and if it' gets a bit narley I just dump it and keep the revs up.
Great video. You’d be great to go on a long ADV ride with! Another big TH-camr that recently lost his clutch was Charly Sinewan on his DesertX in Venezuela. He could have used this knowledge!
Awesome video! Any chance you could share some tips for when Charley Sinewan's motorcycle takes a dip and ends up with water in the engine? I would love to know what to do when you get water inside the engine whenever you fail at trying to cross a river.
Also you when you are ready to shift punch the kill button quickly to unload the shift dogs, an old dracing trick install a micro switch on the shifter and when you are on the throttle bump the shifter it does the same thing unloading the gearbox . Jus saying
I have a question. I watched the Noraly episode mentioned here, and I couldn't help but wonder if doing the mud stretch in bursts would have lessened the damage. At the time I theorized that the worst damage to the friction plates occurred when the clutch was very hot. If this is true, then riding (say) 30 or 40m at a time and then giving the clutch a couple minutes to cool down each time would have lessened the damage across the entire mud stretch. Is this correct? Would cooling the clutch help? Or is the amount of damage over the total length of the mud going to be about the same regardless? I would be very interested to know.
Most of are familiar with riding a fixed gear bicycle. You only pedal the bicycle forward continuously and it will not allow you to coast. That’s disconcerting at first but with practice, it becomes second nature. A fixed gear motorcycle is operated without engaging the normal gears. A sort of kludge to get you out of a jam until you can get a burnt out clutch replaced. The simplest solution when nothing else at hand works. Unlike Noraly, few of us will ever encounter a knee deep impassable mud bath like she did in Liberia. 😮😊
1st: I believe when you open the clutch cover you will surely damage the gasket. ( Mostly it's paper-based) 2nd: Start in neutral why play with a clutch switch My new bike clutch wire was loose and I drove 10km without using the clutch ,it's very challenging in traffic but I made it to the service center for a quick fix
1) in this situation it’ll be fine and a lot of them hold up to being opened without damage if you’re patient and careful. 2) so you can use the starter motor to help you start if you need it. Can be really helpful.
We saved a trip crossing the Simpson Desert in Australia by using some fencing wire to increase the bulk in the clutch pack. The clutch was burnt out 100kms from Big Red. After the fencing wire pressure plate was added, it was ridden to Poeppel Corner, then up the Hay River Track and then home to Melbourne. Over 2900 kms.
Hell yeah man!! What an effort.
For some reason it sounds to me like you stumbled onto an improvement in multiplate clutch models. I picture you installed it like a clockspring ? Anyway, if there's an improvement to be found at least you made it keep going on the journey of a lifetime. As it would be for most who'll see your account here! What motorcycle were you riding?
I expect oldmate just wound some fencing wire between a friction plate and steel to close up the gap haha, maybe I missed you're comments' sarcasm I can't tell :P pretty epic tale I agree, my only real outback breakdown was another rider blowing a headgeasket and me towing him ~100km to help with a ratchet strap between the footpegs. A bush mechanics clutch fix with fencing wire is way cooler and definitely one I'll remember too :) - I'm placing me guess it was a DR650??
The most wholesome set of comments on this video. Thanks for being good people and thanks for the story Hoages!
@@HoagesMoto Were you on our trip?? :-) Yes it was a Dr650, killed by a young bloke used to riding motocross bikes (and driving to the local bike store for bits). The fencing wire (last thing I packed before we left for the trip) was fashioned into a circle that was then inserted into the clutch pack and everything was bolted back together.
I can't believe you went through all the trouble to open a clutch cover on the road for this! Nicely done!
Thanks! 👍
Thats easy for most bikes. The hardest part is to lift the bike up.
@@BrakeMagazinehere is a much better alternative. The extra clutch plate just add it to the stack as per usual assembley. Or even better add some washers to the springs to effectively make them longer and this should get you to a shop where you can replace the clutch
on this vstrom, it s easy, which is a positive aspect of this vstrom
The plate break is only if you don't have a spare
@@holmes1956O
Rather than snapping fiber rings. Bend one of the metal plates in a couple of places and make a wave in it. It will take up more space and act like a diaphragm spring. I have done this mid Enduro race and completed the rest of the race with no noticeable difference in clutch performance.
That’s a cool idea. I’ll add that to the mix.
Uh... why not carry an entire clutch disk set? They don't weigh much, and if you're going to go through the trouble of disassembling the clutch just go ahead and replace the disks and ride on. It's amazing to me how some of these "adventure riders" go out into the bush and wild places without being absolutely prepared.
because clutches are a gradual wear item and competent riders that know their bike will catch a little clutch slip before it gets bad and adjust their riding style to prevent it worsening OR jam the basket in one of many techniques to get out of trouble - a clutch plate set weighs up to 1kg which is an insane amount of weight to carry on a dirtbike/light advbike for a wear product people not racing will mostly detect gradual failure and be able to nurse a bike through a trip.
@@HoagesMoto You don't go out in the wilds of AFRICA unprepared for a failed clutch... The friction disks of the clutch kit weigh next to nothing, you don't need the steels because they hardly ever fail and lots of people just re-use them after scuffing them up with 220 grit sandpaper. You have made no logical point here. You can burn your clutch out quick in the muddy areas of Africa and you need to be prepared for that. Adjustment wont mean anything when you have burned the clutch out in 5 miles of mud... BE PREPARED. KNOW YOUR MOTORCYCLE. CARRY AN ELECTRICAL SCHEMATIC AND REPAIR MANUAL ON YOUR PHONE. DON'T GO OFF INTO A REMOTE AREA LIKE A DAMN FOOL. Have a nice day.
There's always a bush repair that will get you going again until you can do a proper repair. It helps to have a good imagination and all the tools you might need.
She has hammered that little Honda since Morocco and when she headed for the Eye of the desert in all that sand she was smashing the clutch. She admitted that the clutch was slipping before the mud run. We enjoy watching her videos as they are educational and fun. I would like to see some of the guys posting here do do what she does and keep a smile on your face. Noraly is welcome in our camp any time.
Exactly man. Quite a lot negativity around her. I’m kinda surprised tbh
@BrakeMagazine i think alot of the negativity is due to jealousy.
Hats off to her, shes out there living her life her way, doing what she enjoys.
One of the reasons I enjoy watching her is she accepts the challenges and struggles and does what she can given her knowledge and experience to just keep going but also knowing when its time to quit and have a few days break which is a skill within itself.
Shes one of the many people who motivated me to get my licence and a bike. I always loved bikes but they scared the crap out of me, but watching people like her just giving things a go willing to mess up, make mistakes and keep trying was what inspired me the most.
After a few weeks of riding its less scary but still very new and learn something different every single time i ride and absolutely loving it, speaking of which time to get off the internet and go for a ride haha
Btw thank you very much for taking the time to make this video, reminds me of driving home with a snapped axle and also a burnt clutch in the car which I drove the same way clutchless shifting and take off with it in gear using the starter motor.
Probably why i found it faily easy back when i learnt how to drive trucks from those kind of previous experiences :)
Great comment and glad it was helpful!
@@BrakeMagazine hopefully I never need to use the info, but you never know i may be with someone who it may help one day :)
@@jamie.miller.inspiring Get yourself enrolled in a beginner training course & it will get even more fun on many levels. In a year's time, do the same with an advanced course. See also David Hough's "Proficient Motorcycling" book & it's sequel. They're priceless.
This is one of the best motorcycle channels on the internet. Thank you Llel- the theoretical simulation part is impressive!
I didn’t invent that. It’s from a. Brilliant video by the channel I mentioned onscreen.
I wish I had seen this video 2 years ago! It would have saved me so much trouble in Argentinean Patagonia... Thanks so much for the effort you put into your videos, it really shows up.
in noralys case,the clutch on the crf 300 rally is a known weakspot - so in her case ,it was bound to happen,the solution is to replace the stock crf300 complete assembly whit the one from the crf 250l combined whit steel and frictionplates and heavy duty springs from the cbr 300 - fits right in,and has one more frictionplate,and 5 springs instead of just 3
You will lose the slip/assist function if you do this.
Good suggestion. I think Noraly needs some guidance on when to do maintenance and when to upgrade for known troubled areas on stock bikes. She does a great job beating the snot out of stock bikes.
Beste stuurlui staan aan de wal😅
The first minutes provide a great explanation for how a clutch works. I learned a thing or two. Especially when you pulled on the clutch with the cover off. Awesome reference for all and new riders, or anyone repairing their own clutch.
Great video and theories put into practice.
Thanks! Glad it was useful!
There is a more subtle way to handle the early state of this problem.
Add a few washers under or on top of the springs. That way you increase the pre-load on the spring and thus adding friction.
Used this method a number of times, learned it in tuned old types of motorcycles that didn't have stronger springs or more friction plates available.
Thanks for the informative video. I think a lot of riders - especially those who ride BDRs here in the States or anywhere you’re going deep in the backcountry can learn how to save space and have something just as you described it, to get you out of a bad situation and hopefully help you get somewhere where you can properly work on the bike… cheers! 🍻👍✌️
Pleasure! Totally agree!
Love Dakar tricks and this was well done my friend! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice video - could save some folks a lot of bother. I had a similar problem with my first big bike halfway in to work in London. After waiting all day for a tow truck, the tow truck guy let me in on a trick that would have saved me next time: carry a spare clutch cable, passed through the route of the existing one, gaffa taped or zip-tied to the current one. Time to repair then is a matter of seconds on the road as you connect the ends of the new cable in where the old one went & strip out the old one. Once you get to the repair shop, just buy a new spare & tie it in place as before.
This is a very old enduro trick and one I've used on my bikes for many years. We're never to old to learn.👍🏻
...and tape the ends of the spare clutch cable so no water can get to it and rust the cable (and oil it a bit)
@@TetraX-ui7xl yes, good point!
Good tip, and one I've used a lot, especially on my old 400 single, which destroyed cables on a regular basis. Only thing is, it's not helpful in the situation described in the video.
I would say, from what Norley's video showed, that guy who helped her did it very well. Not many could done it better in that condition. An under powered bike in thick mud will wear the clutch. Not like the clutch was new at the beginning either.
Yes, i guess the guys doibg it in indonesia, india, africa with 125cc bikes dont have the underpower problem…
Dude I have seen people in Africa trail mud like that back and forth all day long on Chinese TVS 125cc motorcycle ferrying passengers
@@notundermywatch3163tvs is not Chinese
I honestly can’t believe how anyone would take on the kind of trips Itchy Boots does without really good mechanical knowledge of their machine,and how to deal with all the common issues that WILL happen when you’re doing those sorts of mileage.on my 16th Birthday I went out about 6 in the morning on my DT50MX super excited I rode about 40 miles and my Clutch cable snapped,I got home fine riding clutch less but all my bikes now have a spare cable zip tied to the existing one.Great video !
I did the clutch cable thing, I also had a hollow tube in the frame under the seat and stuffed a rubber siphon hose and extra bit of gas line.
Nice to see someone trying to educate the masses.
I've had to do something similar on a couple of occasions when I've broken either the clutch lever or snapped a clutch cable on my daily ride - a 1977 Yamaha XT500 ! You know, one of those bikes that actually won a Dakar (or two).
Now there's a bike you don't really want to have to do the "run & jump" manoeuvre too many times.
Reminds me of my old vw's breaking a clutch cable, your brain quickly finds a route home w/o any stop signs!.. If not, use the starter in 1st or push for a roll!
Great video! Most channels would have just explained it, you went out of your way to show us on your own machine, thanks:)
In ‘02 the clutch on my DR750S went silence in the middle of my vacation in the south of France. French mechanics refused to repair my problem and I couldn’t get hold of new parts. So I decided to do what’s needed at the time and that was riding my bike for 1200 km without a clutch. Through the traffic, the French way. It’s a walk in the park as soon you let go of any fear and refuse to care about anything. No questions were asked at the borders
Love it!
I tried the No1 method of dropping the bike into 1st at standstill when I had broken a clutch cable. Bike went into gear nicely but did not move forward as it just sheared the main gearbox shaft. The bike was an old Aermacchi Harley Davidson Scooter, so probably not a strong gearbox, but worth a warning as to what can happen.
Two points there:
· She was stuck in deep mud where you couldn't just jump the bike into motion. If Alaska had a big chunk more of power, the rear wheel could have done the slipping instead of the clutch, but there obviously is the limit of the low cc engine light weight bike: There's only so much oomph available for flinging mud out off the way. That may have been the reason for her exploration of different bikes during her Africa break. (And boy, does the Himalayan 452 look promising there!) All in all the CRF 300R still seems to offer more advantages than shortcomings to her and mud is only one of several obstacles she had to deal with.
· The entire clutch assembly had to be replaced in the end. She didn't discuss the exact failure in detail, but apparently the damage was deeper than just burnt clutch plates. Maybe the forks of the outer case had worked in beyond their limits and lifted the clutch with dents, maybe there was something wrong with the slipper clutch mechanism, maybe that, maybe, maybe.
One of the problems when you burn any clutch is that the material on the surface changes. The steel parts get oxidised, the organic material chars. This affects the friction coefficient. Especially with bikes where the clutch runs in oil and there is loads of carbohydrates available for charring. The charred oil makes a gooey slippery consistency and is stuck to the surface of the clutch and goes deeply into the pores of the material.
I have no way of knowing if my idea will actually work in the African outback, but what I imagine would be a good temporary fix: Find yourself some really high percentage moonshine and dump the clutch plates into it, Give them the best possible clean in the stuff, then try sanding off the top layer of oxidation if the steel parts are discoloured. The alcohol should dissolve most of the charred oil and thus both get this source of lubricant that may inhibit force transmission out of the way and also, as the built up charred oil increased the surface touching the other side of the clutch, increase the area load on the bits of clutch surface that may actually transfer force to a level where it may work again. While this obviously will not be a full repair, it just may get you going until you reach a point where you can get a garage and spares. If grinding was involved, the parts need an extremely good rinse, obviously (again), as you want none of these hard particles in your oil.
She was stuck on a tarmac road. Watch the video again.
@@BrakeMagazine That's where the last bit of life went from the clutch. It had burnt long before.
And that’s what the video is about. She got to the road and then needed rescue. She coulda then gone through this process.
Another tip - when your clutch starts to go, use lower gears to limit the load the clutch needs to handle (not 6th gear like I.B.). Even a slow limp in 1st gear is better than pushing.
Bikes using a hydraulic clutch can also try cracking the clutch line to release built up pressure - hot clutch fluid will put a preload on the slave cylinder, inducing slip.
Not sure what you mean by “cracking the clutch line”. ?? Cutting? Bending?
@@big566bunny I believe that he means cracking open the bleeder screw briefly. That will relieve the hydraulic pressure.
I think you’re right.
Correct - easing the pressure built up due to heat. Just undo the bleed nipple a very small amount to release the pressure, then tighten it up again.
You the man!!! This video is just packed with useful information!!! Thank you for all the time you invested in it.
I appreciate that!
WOW! Really wish I knew this trick when my buddies clutch burnt out in the Oregon desert last summer, could have save our entire trip!!!!
Sorry to hear that
@@BrakeMagazine I'm confused! How can 'fixing' one friction plate make the drive solid when all the other friction plates continue to slip ?
There just isn't enough room in there for another plate thickness - the width of the clutch pack is fixed by the basket dimensions. @@DirtRiderLife
So what allows the slip is the reduced friction because the plates can move slightly side to side. When you increase that friction by making the stack of plates bigger then none of them can slide or move.
In the comments you'll see lots of other ingenious ways to solve the same problem. Leather shoelaces, wire etc.@@dznnf7
These driving techniques are also useful in case you can't control your clutch, such as a snapped cable or a broken lever if you don't want / can't stop to ammend the situation. Maybe you are a few Km from your destination and you want to deal with it in the hotel or at a shop. Doubling a snapped plate to direct-drive the bike is just brilliant. BTW the lighter your bike is, the easier it will be on the transmission and the starter, unless it is overengineered.
Blip the throttle when you clutch-less downshift, it puts less stress on the gears.
Agreed
If you hold a tiny bit of throttle on and hold the brake then downshift it can be achieved almost seamlessly. Basically as it transitions between gears it revs up for a split second and goes down a gear much easier. Same works for clutchless downshifts on road in general. Run down the rev range lower than you usually would, to say 2000-2500 rpm, braking, throttle not completely cut, in a position that would give you say 2500 rpm of free rev, and then with some preload on the gear lever it’ll generally just shift without the slightest issue. On some bikes 1st to 2nd can be very clunky up and down without the clutch. On my Honda VFR1200 I just pause in neutral very briefly instead of shifting straight up or straight down, and it makes all the difference.
Yup
Good thing to note is that Noraly didn't actually ruin the clutch, an over enthousiastic local did while trying to help her out. (Correct me if i'm wrong/ taking in consideration that driving such terrain will wear your clutch faster than normal use)
Other than that, great video, I will keep this in mind for the extremely sticky situations. Would rather not treat my bike like that. Keep it going
You are correct. :)
You are correct the bike was mid calf deep in mud, and a young man burned up the clutch getting it out of the mud. He attempted to move it like the 200 lb light bikes, but with her luggage extra gas tank, etc that 331 lb bike of hers must be close to 42 and burned out the clutch.
... it's also worth noting that Noraly edited the video. You don't know what you didn't see.
@@DD-co1zn That would suggest that she just ignores her clutch skills when the camera's off? Watch the video's.
@DD-co1zn and you don't know what you're talking about. Were you there?
Brilliant video! This is the kind of valuable information that will stay with a rider forever.
Great tips, thank you. I had a Clutch Master Cylinder fail (the seals went) Baja early a run from from Tecate to Cabo and back on a KTM 525. I ended up stopping on rises of small hills to facilitate easier starts whenever possible. On steep descents, I covered the the kill switch. Did nearly a 1,000 miles that way until I found a replacement in a what was essentially a Motorsports junkyard.
Super cool trick when you're riding on flat terrain. Itchy Boots was riding through mud and water, up and down the hills. I don't think riding without a clutch will work in that type of terrain. Correct me if I'm wrong.
On the terrain that finally fried it she wasn't even the one operating Alaska when it was happened, a local got her bike through the mud and was quite aggressive on the clutch to do it, she tried to tell him to go easy but she knew she wasn't as likely to be able to get through. It was unfortunate but you are correct that welding the clutch and using clutchless starts the on that mudbog of a road would not have been practical. After she got onto better roads thoug she was struggling slipping clutch and the broken friction disk trick could have got her to her Abidjan. Also the idea of carrying one spare friction disk mounted somewhere on the bike could have helped.
Great video and road side effort, thank you! And great tips of others in the comments too! I have applied the starter motor one due to a broken clutch cable until we could fix it with half of the village helping out! Great people in Bosnia!
Glad it helped!
This is very helpful. I was stranded in the middle of nowhere Baja with a burnt out clutch. Hopefully I'll never need to do this in the future!
Hopefully not!
I ride a Buell Ulysses, which is this weird Harley powered ADV. Had that happen but Harley was actually smart for once. There's an adjuster rod you can max out to force the plates together, saved my booty and takes 5min.
Really clever and well explained
Thanks David!
On every bike that I've owned that had them (and there have been quite a few) I have always removed and bypassed the clutch nanny switch, the sidestand nanny switch, and the neutral lockout nanny switch. Not only are these things a real nuisance to an experienced rider, but they also tend to fail at the worst possible time. With all these switches bypassed, you can start the bike in gear with the clutch out.
I am a very experienced rider (Been riding 40 years, never had a car, 130,000 miles on the current bike alone) and I still sometimes go into gear with the side-stand down. So I keep the side-stand switch. Maybe this is partly due to never having had a side-stand switch problem. Which is pretty impressive thinking about it, given the age and milage of my bikes.
What you suggest is the last thing to do, only when there's no more hope. On the other hand, an extra clutch metal disc, will save you 99% of the times. It will apply more pressure. The clutch will have a second life (not just few hundreds kilometers, but thousands and thousands). Fact is, if you're an offroad beginner like Itchy boots, you will keep burning clutches on and on. Experience helps a lot to preserve the mechanical parts. That's what we do in rallies. You can't win a rally if you don't reach the end ;-)
Absolutely it is! Totally agree Alessio! Nice to see you around here.
Noraly now is no beginner !
@@allanschuster3520 She's a traveller. A lot of respect for what she does. But in terms of offroad skills, she's a beginner. Check who's not a beginner: th-cam.com/video/DiAtmNfCGVc/w-d-xo.html First woman ever to finish Dakar in malle moto class (no mechanical assistance). Also Vanessa Ruck, has been improving a lot in the last couple of years. Also my girlfriend, who attended GS trophy last year, isn't a beginner. Most of the times, travellers know very little about offroad riding, but they have the guts to take and go. That's cool too.
She's no Dakar racer, but I can't remember any time where she burned her clutch? Even in the subject video it was a friendly local who burned her clutch.
@@jsmit9484 the CRF is tough 😅
I would love to see more of these dakar tricks. Right now im building up a xr 650 r to ride trough africa with it. These tricks could literally save my life in the future...
Cool!!
Make sure you get the seasons correct when going through West Africa; Noraly got it wrong by arriving in the wet season. In November and December, it's still very green with no rain, plenty of deep sand where the wadies are, and no mosquitoes to worry about either.
As this video shows, carry a spare set of clutch plates and a cable taped to the original in case it breaks. I made longer and wider foot pegs for my bike, as you will be standing up a lot. Add a bit more oil to your crankcase too, as it gets very hot here, or add an oil cooler. Water cooling: you can buy an anti-boil additive in most countries. (Abro tropical coolant).
Noraly was always concerned about the quality of gasoline sold on the road. People buy it from the petrol station and resell it for a small profit in 250-ml to 4-litre (1-gallon) containers to the locals when the petrol station runs out.
I've been in Ghana for 10 years myself and enjoy riding year-round. If you make it to Ghana, you are invited. I'm in a town called Tease (te ah see) in the Eastern Region. Just ask for the white man with tattoos at the police station, and they will direct you. I have a motorcycle parts shop and sell petrol from a table top. 😁👍🏼
The people are really friendly, and the food is good.
All the simps blaming the guy for burning Noraly's clutch .... Sure. He only rides those roads daily, his whole life, to get food and water. But let's just ignore the fact Noraly edits the videos any way she likes, and just blame the local guy because thats what Noraly chose to show us.
To be honest, I don't care for the conjecture. it's not the vibe around here.
@@BrakeMagazine conjecture is blaming the local without exercising your critical faculties to such extent that you realise there are hours of footage you didn't see. Textbook conjecture.
She did not blame the local guy. She defended him.
@@h.l.3628 work on your reading comprehension. I didn't say *she* blamed him.
I don’t wanna be this guy, but I’d appreciate the replies being more considerate than that. As I said, not the vibe.
Thanks for taking so much trouble to help fellow bikers understand and know what to do ... if and when.
No worries!
Thank you! I,ve ridden my bike without a clutch, when my clutch wire snapped, but I didn’t know about the fixed clutch trick. My friends doing moto-cross told me they never would use the clutch, except at starting off.
Nice video, clearly explained and potentially extremely useful. Thanks 👍
Thank you my friend! This is a fantastic video! I love mini-tip Monday!
Very useful information! I think I will opt for the spare clutch pack on a long adventure. I’ll find room for it 😂
And clutch cable 😜
I believe noraly stated that the clutch would have had the same fate if she herself had ridden it through that mud, correct me if I am wrong but when in Alaska she had modification's carried out on her bike, wasn't one a light weight competition clutch , she at that time was intending to ues her bike on the Baha , an advantage for short term high performance,but not so durability, as for me in that situation I would put up the drone and found a navigable route through on the firmer periphery. but reality is what it is. Seasonal greetings to you all.🙏🎄❄️☃️
It’s easy to be a Monday morning quarterback in these situations but i think using the drone to find an easier route would have been a good idea
I really like that idea but there must be a good reason why she sticks to the roads. Maybe it’s muddy under all the grass? Clearly no one else attempts that either.
One many BMWs, even as far back as 2004, the ECU is looking for the clutch position switch to CHANGE from 'engaged' to 'disengaged' after the bike is switched on. This prevents a rider from shorting the switch to 'always disengaged' to bypass safety measures.
This could have been why you couldn't do the starter trick with the Suzuki.
I was always curious what you should do when the clutch burns out. Thank you for the awesome video! 😄
Very well explained. I knew most of this but I learned how to snap the clutch plate. Thanks for that
Great video. I imagine many of us have had a road bike fall over and broken the clutch lever. I remember having to ride home from a bbq without a clutch on my NS125. Fun part was having to come to stop at some lights then get of the bike and run with it before kicking it into gear, with a police car sat behind me at the lights. didn't know about the inserting a broken clutch plate trick. That's a nice one to know. 👍🏼
Some riders carry a small Vice-Grip / locking pliers to use as a quick lever replacement, as long as your broken lever has enough of a nub left on it for the pliers to grip. Deployment takes seconds & off you go.
@@njpaddler Yeah I know that trick, works on shift levers too. Coming from a bbq I didn't have tools on me for 4 mile ride back.
Am I watching Discovery Channel?
This is incredibly well written, spoken and visualised.
Subbed!
Just a little ol YT channel! Cheers for the kind words.
As I a school kid, I learnt to ride on Salisbury plain, we had a 1970s Suzuki TS100 with no clutch or front brake. hours of fun, I see you were at Red Horn going back towards, Upavon. PS Hard to blip a throttle without a clutch, gets a bit lurchy.
When she got the bike back from the gentleman that got it through the most difficult mud, she stated the clutch didn't begin to engage until the lever was almost totally released. Had it been properly adjusted at that time, I'll bet she'd still have a clutch. Clutch plates only wear when they're slipping, you don't ride around with an improperly adjusted clutch unless you don't know how to adjust it or you want trouble. There's gotta be some free play or slack in the cable for the clutch to be fully engaged. From looking at the video, there was a lot of adjustment room still available in the cable.
Agreed
You forgot to mension that you've ridden the Dakar & to wish a safe race to all the competitors. Merry xmas and happy holidays to all.
Happy Christmas to you too!
Awesome tricks! I just wanted to point out that both of these are a continuum, like you can do all three of pushing, downhill, with the starter button pressed, for the easiest possible load on the bike. And for shifting down it makes it smoothest to go really slow, apply some throttle to get the motor starting to rev up under its own power, and downshift at the same moment, to minimize the change in acceleration when the wheel starts engine braking to the new higher RPM. It's similar principle to getting the bike rolling before putting it in gear. Just smoothness is the key, same as with riding clutchless. but if you've ever watched Moto Gymkhana (Lexco has a great video on their techniques, which really carry over to a lot of types of riding), they don't use the clutch for all of those crazy manuevers. So it's definitely something that can be practiced for fun and can even become your preference, once you stop relying on the clutch because it's there.
Good points!
Honda CRF 250/300 have lousy baby-sized clutch and to cope with it they put a second adjuster on cable. We salvaged once clutch by sawing off a nut on inline adjuster to increase cable travel, no washers to shim springs were needed.
Makes me glad to be in Scotland in a Merc for a couple of weeks! Freezing in Moffat is a proper novelty 😎
😂 Embrace that!
Very well done !! Thanks for caring
Man having to snap a fibre disc and assymetrically load the basket springs is LOOSE but pretty awesome. For those not racing when you next open your clutch cover for any kind of maintenance or inspection - check your clutch spring ID & OD and pack suffcient washers to preload the whole spring set a few mm - no risk of basket damage and will save a ride if you catch a slippage, let the bike cool down and fit them before to much damage is done. Carrying a full clutch even on a remote ride is pretty rediculous for riders that have mechanical sympathy/ understand what heat and continued slippage will result in. Carrying 5-15 choice size washers that might save the day when you don't listen to your bikes warning signs for a weight penalty of ~50g in trip luggage might be a smart move for you or someone else where the terrain/climate/rider warrants it :)
of course Noraly is actually still riding across Africa, Cameroon I believe, as you sit where?
I sit in my desk making a helpful video for people to watch. What are you sitting there doing? Ah, writing unhelpful, thoughtless TH-cam comments.
Informative video, hopefully with a well serviced bike I’ll never have to use this information but all the better for learning it. Thanks
I helped a workmate move her VW Beetle with a broken clutch starting on the starter and clutch less shifting plus stall at the lights. Was only a couple of kilometres. I also practise clutches up and down shifting on my bike when conditions are right. But great tip about the plates 👍
Any chance you could show us in a bit more detail how you create the fixed clutch please? Like where exactly the snapped friction plate goes etc
Take a plate out, break it half and re install with the two halves on top of eachother any position in the stack is what I think I know...
@@Matthew-zw9su thank you mate!
This.
The idea is to prevent the two types of clutch plate from being able to turn relative to each other , or 'lock' them together . First off you need to open up the clutch and remove one plate ( I think that some of us might want to examine their manual , consult a friend , or the road side services , before doing this at all to be honest , but it is simple enough if you have some mechanical skill == do not blame me or anyone else if you fail at this or cause any damage to yourself or your property thank you ==) . The method to lock the clutch plates in this situation is to break one plate and use the two halves to wedge the other plates together , by placing one broken half over the other broken half between any of the other remaining plates in any position in the clutch basket . Now you need to reassemble the clutch baskets and springs . By not allowing both types of clutch plate to turn due the wedge created , one type with external lugs and the other with external lugs remember , the two half of the clutch are locked together , just as if the clutch control lever at the handle bars was disengaged , ie as it would be to drive the rear wheel . Problem now is , hey , you have no clutch control and need to learn to how to cope . Return to the video once more for that advice . My advice , for peps driving road bikes anyway , is pull in your clutch lever and check for fraying wires before and after each ride ; usually the clutch cable will provide a bit of warning by fraying a bit before total failure . My clutch cable snapped on an old Laverda , some years ago , and I drove maybe ten miles to my friendly garage . Not for the feint hearted ! Lol . I would not try this at all on a bike you are not very familiar with .
Incidentally , lol , I had a final drive chain snap and fall to the road causing no noise or damage to my bike once . Since the engine revved fine , but there was no drive , I thought I had a failed clutch . I was most surprised to see no chain attached ... it was a dark night out in the sticks . Found the chain a hundred yards back and fitted a new spring link that I carried as a spare . Phew ! All the best in 2024 .
That is so lucky to be able to just fit a new link!
As a preventive measure
clean the glue between the disc pads and polish (better oil circulation)
seeing tips on Trial UK forum (if I remenber).
I did it on Trial (Beta Techno 250),
very smooth cool easy... (Techno was was too brutal, and stalled in 1st gear)
Thank you for a simple practical lesson
You are welcome. Thanks for the nice comment!
Don't carry a fiber plate instead carry a extra metal. If slipping starts double the metal plates (2 metals between the fibers instead of 1) in the center of the pack. Your clutch will operate just like a brand new clutch again. I've ridden hundreds of miles on clutch packs with 2 metals stacked in the center on multiple bikes over the years.
Nice explained and demonstrated! Great video
Make sure you really understand how your clutch works, and what effect the clutch free-play adjustment has on the cable, and actuation mechanism. In most cases when the clutch starts slipping, re-adjusting the clutch free-play will reduce the slipping. As will letting it cool down.
Absolutely imperative. Great comment
Thanks for sacrificing your bike (a bit, at least) to show us this. Appreciated!
Always!
Brilliant video Llel!! Love your work mate. 👍
i had the clutch mechanism fail on my old 600 gsf and due to the tip by a fellow friend with the starter motor I was able to drive back home. its quite weird at first, but you'll get used to it.
Thanks for sharing. I feel sorry for what your bike had to go through for this video 😬🤕
😂😂 It’ll be grand. Suzukis are tough as old boots.
For sale: Suzuki V-strom 800 DE. Very well maintained, hardly used. Only ridden on sunny days, no offroad. Just broken in! Comes with clutch upgrade!
😂
Brilliant video. well done for diving in the deep end 👏 👍
Awesome tips! I have a spare clutch plate already, will definitely be putting that in my kit!
Right on!
I could see this coming into my head in a pinch someplace in the world. I won't remember where I heard it but I"ll be grateful I did :)
Hopefully so!
I would have cut up an old metal tin and made a dummy steel plate to pack it all out a bit further and take up the slack, or even put a couple of extra washers from elsewhere on the bike, under the spring nuts, to force it together until I could get a set of new plates FedExed to the next town. Of course I dont have a pile of CRF clutch plates in front of me to experiment with, but I would have figured it out somehow, because I have a good imagination, and and am also mechanically minded after 45 years of swinging spanners on bikes. Noraly didn't get stuck for long though and is still inspiring people the world over.
I was impressed with Notalee’s riding at Baja Rally
Yeah? I've never ridden with her :)
Noraly is welcome at my camp fire any time. She is extreamly brave woman and has road some of the roughest roads and trails they are. In my best days of overe 55 years riding dirt and cross country, I got to admit I would struggle to have went where she has. She is a very special person and even David Attenborough could not have done better of showing us the world, people, we live in and around.
I completely agree.
I've seen a guy do this, burnt clutch plates so he added another plate for like another layer w it and runs smoothly. Never knew Dakar uses this method too.
👌👌
All good points, and in the comments below. But a simple point to make is don't ride the clutch in those conditions, either in or out. The engine and oil will get hot, give the bike time to cool down and clear that mud out while waiting. I know, easy to say, but you only need to burn out the clutch once for the lesson to be learnt. I was young, riding with my older brother and his mate in a swampy area, second lesson to carry a salt shaker or cigarettes to deal with the leeches.😨
I started on an old bike that had a broken clutch and no starter luckily it was a cb Honda 125, it's small size made it possible.
Brilliant and technique for the effort here spares spares spares 👏🏻💪thanks and thanks to Itchy boots
Amen!
A simpler "gimmick" is to come up with some washers to put under the bolts that hold the clutch and basket together to increase the preload pressure on the clutch springs. Maybe she can scrounge them off the bike itself, other vehicles, or carry them around in her pocket for the next time this happens. The CRF300 has a ramp style slipper clutch and only 3 springs. It is reasonably easy to upgrade this arrangement in the 300 with a conventional clutch system.
It’s also a good point!
Dude , great idea to carry one or two friction plates , well done.
Modern gearboxes are strong , thanks manufactures .
Great video! Appreciate the comitment and effort.
Much appreciated!
Great idea but if the clutch isn't worn but just glazed from cooking it you aren't helping much other than putting more preload on the clutch. I always baby the clutch off road and if it' gets a bit narley I just dump it and keep the revs up.
Great video. You’d be great to go on a long ADV ride with! Another big TH-camr that recently lost his clutch was Charly Sinewan on his DesertX in Venezuela. He could have used this knowledge!
Awesome video! Any chance you could share some tips for when Charley Sinewan's motorcycle takes a dip and ends up with water in the engine?
I would love to know what to do when you get water inside the engine whenever you fail at trying to cross a river.
I’ll take a look at the video 😉
Also you when you are ready to shift punch the kill button quickly to unload the shift dogs, an old dracing trick install a micro switch on the shifter and when you are on the throttle bump the shifter it does the same thing unloading the gearbox . Jus saying
Interesting idea! It’s a quick shifter then!
Yes
This was a great video to watch. Thank you, and I definitely learned something by doing so!
Glad it was helpful!
Yep, never want to have to bump shift a bike to get home. But you just have to do what you've got to do.
Agreed!
stupid question, but do I asumme correctly that if you carry an extra clutch plate, you'd also need a renewal clutch oil?
Never too old to learn , thank you for that information . Always useful in thoughts situations hopefully never to experience. 👌😊
I snapped a clutch cable on the last day on my Cape York trip. Only trick bit were stop and giveways and roundabouts
Agreed
Hmmm some good tips for road riding with no clutch, can you try it knee deep in red sticky mud on a fully loaded motorcycle?
Probably be pretty hard, but I wasn’t suggesting that. She made it to a road in her video
What an amazing and insightful video this 🙌💯
I have a question.
I watched the Noraly episode mentioned here, and I couldn't help but wonder if doing the mud stretch in bursts would have lessened the damage.
At the time I theorized that the worst damage to the friction plates occurred when the clutch was very hot. If this is true, then riding (say) 30 or 40m at a time and then giving the clutch a couple minutes to cool down each time would have lessened the damage across the entire mud stretch.
Is this correct? Would cooling the clutch help? Or is the amount of damage over the total length of the mud going to be about the same regardless?
I would be very interested to know.
It does help but once it starts to slip at all, not really. It’s game over for the clutch tbh.
Excellent video, you explained it all very well.
Glad it was helpful!
Most of are familiar with riding a fixed gear bicycle. You only pedal the bicycle forward continuously and it will not allow you to coast. That’s disconcerting at first but with practice, it becomes second nature. A fixed gear motorcycle is operated without engaging the normal gears. A sort of kludge to get you out of a jam until you can get a burnt out clutch replaced. The simplest solution when nothing else at hand works. Unlike Noraly, few of us will ever encounter a knee deep impassable mud bath like she did in Liberia. 😮😊
Leather Shoe Lace... Still allows you to use the clutch as normal for the most part
I just saw this in a comment. I’ve never heard of that!
Where exactly do you place the shoelace? In between friction and metal plates and how exactly?
Maybe wrap the other fibre plate with it.
We need more info here.
I've had to do that and for long periods of time. Pretty easy to get the hang of.
1st: I believe when you open the clutch cover you will surely damage the gasket. ( Mostly it's paper-based)
2nd: Start in neutral why play with a clutch switch
My new bike clutch wire was loose and I drove 10km without using the clutch ,it's very challenging in traffic but I made it to the service center for a quick fix
1) in this situation it’ll be fine and a lot of them hold up to being opened without damage if you’re patient and careful.
2) so you can use the starter motor to help you start if you need it. Can be really helpful.