I know it's been a while since you have done this video but I wanted to say thanks. Better light, better video, and very clear instruction make your video the best HW99/50 assembly/disassembly on TH-cam by a fair margin.
Über die gute, alte HW50 gibt es kaum Infos ... umso mehr freue ich mich über dieses tolle Video! Eine Frage zum "Polymer Inlay" bei 3:18 ... Ist das so Original, oder wurde es nachträglich angefertigt, um das "Kratzen" des Spannarms an der Feder zu verhindern?
Hello. Thanks for the interesting video. It seems that a HW50S version sold in Germany is limited to a spring being linked to a maximum of 7.5 Joules due to German law regulations. The HW50S rifles sold in e.g. Belgium is not limited in that respect and therefore seemingly are delivered by Weihrauch to Belgium as a 15 Joules HW50S. Therefore two questions. The first question: your HW50S as shown in the video is a 7.5 Joules HW50S? Since you are removing by hand the end part of the spring assembly by simply pushing down the rifle tube by hand, vertically downwards on the yellow spare seal (as you indicated). So obviously there is indeed very little tension of the max 7.5 Joules spring in the case of your German version HW50S rifle in rest. I assume that there is practically no remaining tension of the result of a 7.5 Joules spring? Can you confirm such? Second question: you mention "Be careful during this step as there could be a bit more tension on it if you own the export version". If the "export version" of the HW50S (such as a HW50S delivered in Belgium) is a 15 Joules spring version (thus the double of the 7.5 Joules German version !) could you possibly inform us about the meaning of "there could be a bit more tension" during a disassembly of the export version of a HW50S ? Does one thus also not need a complete spring decompression-compression set-up to disassemble a 15 Joules spring HW50S (export version)? Can a disassembly still be done by hand for a 15 Joules export version HW50S as you show in the video and since you remark " a bit more tension" ? ... Or is the remaining tension of a 15 Joules spring in an export version HW50S in rest much too high for manual disassembly? Thanks and regards.
Yes, it's the 7,5 Joule version. And as long as you stick to original HW springs 7,5 or 16 Joules there's no need for a spring compressor. Both versions can be disassembled and assembled by hand as long as you don't try to put in the super power magnum springs... ^^
I cant seem to punch out the 4 blocks/ squares?? I see the front 2 blocks have "blind holes" at the inside side. But I see No edges of the 2 square (little) blocks. I have the HW50. Do I need to get these squares/blocks Out anyway, to open the rear part?
Sometimes when they drill in the cast some holes are unclean and not cut through completely. Try to punch through the holes where they should be with a fitting allen key or something similar. Can you take a picture of it? Would be interesting to see exactly what you have there.
That's the tin sheet liner inside the piston. You can see it through the slot where the cocking arm shoe is riding in. In this video the liner is missing. But if you watch a later HW95 disassemble video from me, you will see the difference. th-cam.com/video/4f4MzG-UoBQ/w-d-xo.html
A good explanatory vid, these are a good gun, I've had a few over the years ago, l sold a Pro sport and my TX 200, definitely prefer Weihrauch's, think Air arms are over rated, these are lightweight and just as accurate as my Pro Sport was, that being said still my favourite Weihrauch is the HW80K, mine has a 14" barrel and has had work, shooting FTTs 14.6 grain it's doing very good power, 20ft/lb
Coming from Nova Scotian Canada here. Very well done video. Glad I found this . Just purchased a new HW50s a few days ago. Beautiful gun and very accurate but really hard to cock, very stiff and grinding sound , almost as hard returning the barrel to lock position. Something is wrong. I believe the Polly mar inlay, ,think that is what you called it, in the two piece cocking leaver is causing the hard friction and noise. Also the cocking leaver knuckle or joint must be excessively tight, I hope. I did some research and it appears that this is a very common issue with the 50’s . I read every review on the Internet I could find before my purchase , probably at least 10 , and not one reviewer mention this. That’s a bit disappointing. I was fortunate to find a couple of TH-cams on how to fix this issue, if that is the problem. I sure hope so as I don’t want to go down the road of having to try to send the gun back which the dealer probably won’t take and then having to deal with the Warranty Dept. I’ve done that before and it was a nightmare. Hope I can fix this. Thank you again for making this video .
I think it's very common due to the design of the cocking lever. That's why I like the simpler cocking levers on the HW95 more. Hope you can fix yours to your satisfaction! Cheers!
Appreciate the video. I have just stripped down my HW99S which I have just purchased second hand. It was easy to get it super clean due to your video. Its pretty simple when you've been shown once. I will be doing it on a regular basis from now on. Many Thanks.
Ik had never taken a rifle apart, and thanks to your video I got a old rusty barnfind HW50 back to its original state, including new spring, piston, coldbluing and refinishing the stock! Thanks alot!
Thanks for this id accidentally over oiled my gun which was causing dieseling and laud cracks when discharging pellets i needed to full strip to dry it out Thanks for this video a big help it really is
hello friend, congratulations on the video was very well done and easy to understand. Well, recently acquired a HW 50 S and'm kinda dissatisfied with the only weapon for a reason that is: to cock the weapon has something scraping and appears to be the lever. I contacted the seller and he told me to be normal in some HW this problem and after 500 ~ 600 shots the gun to shave and is soft, the already this gun with 400 rounds and continue scraping, I wonder if you already You know of any case like this? My HW already is the one that has a nylon bar on the lever which comes into contact with the chamber of the gun. sorry my English because I am using a translator. Since already thank you for your attention, many great shots and a big hug.
I would have degreaced all the components with spray and re greaced be loads better cleaner gun and polish all the trigger mechanisms and the piston on a buffer
Thankyou for such a brilliant video! Had no clue on how to maintain my air rifle but now I do. Many thanks! Just a quick question, I take it this guide applies to the HW99S???
Hallo! Ein super Video. Vielen Dank dafür! Eine Frage habe ich. Ich besitze ein HW50s. Der Keil am Lauf ist durch das Öffnen und Schließen ziemlich abgenutzt, so dass der Lauf mit minimalem Kraftaufwand geöffnet werden kann. Auch schließt der Lauf nicht mehr richtig sondern hat minimal Spiel. Kann man diesen Keil selbst erneuern oder muss man hierzu zum Büchsenmacher? Leider finde ich hierzu nichts im Internet. Wäre super wenn Du mir helfen könntest.
Den Keil kann man mit etwas handwerklichem Geschick selbst tauschen. Oder eben zu HW einsenden. Ich würde das Gewehrchen nach Weihrauch schicken. Die machen das. Dauert ein bissl, aber dann ist sie wieder top.
@@2lbsTrigrPullEs gibt übrigens kein Video, dass den Aus- und Einbau des Verschlusskeil zeigt. Das wäre vielleicht ein Fall für Dich 😉 mein like wäre Dir sicher!
Good video and a lot of useful information! Just a question: is this the 7.5J spring version and if I have the export version would I need a spring compressor? For safety reason I believe it's good to add this unless I missed it.
Good video, this is very helpful. I changed the spring in my gun and found that afterwards it made a rough scratchy sound when i cocked it and i could feel a lot of scraping and resistance. So i put some grease on the spring and it cocked smooth and made no noise. But it dieselled something terrible and smoke came out the muzzle. So i took it apart again and saw that the pistol seal was all burnt and cracked. So what the heck should i do now???
Great video! Hi all. I'm very new to this (never owned a rifle before and have shot fewer than 500 pellets!) so please bear with me. I suspect I have the galling issue and I'm keen to have a look, but I want to take as little apart as possible because I'm worried I'll cause damage. Is it possible to skip some of the take-down process shown in the video and just do min 0 to 0:18 and then min 2:19 to 3:25, then assemble as shown later in the video. Thanks in advance to anyone who can advise!
Only HW35, HW77/97 and HW80. Basically only the ones with bigger zylinder diameter. The smaller rifles like the HW50, HW57, HW85/HW95/HW98 have the pin type.
I have a HW50 s/n 736xxx with an internal safety. Also it does not have the four square keepers. Both ends are closed on the receiver (spring housing ) How do I get the spring out? Thanks for any help you can give.
+william sliemers Is there a visible small rim on the last 2" of your receiver? Sound like you got the old style, similar to the HW35/80 or HW77/97 design. If that the case you just knock the pins out that keep the trigger unit and then unscrew the end piece - keep the spring tension in mind here!!
+Nico Nixlos Nico. I sure do appreciate that information and it is just what you said. Thanks for the warning about the spring tension. You have a good day and thanks again.
To ensure no damage by accidental slippage of the screw driver there are the 2:22 mark,.it would be a lot safer to use a properly sized hollow ground screwdriver blades here ( or proper Gunsmithing screwdrivers). Omission of the demonstrator to use the correct tools here do this surprised me! * Hollow ground screw driver blades fit more snugly in the slot of the screws and thereby lessens the chances of the screw driver winding or 'torquing' out of the slot and scraping the surrounding surfaces. Using the handle of a screwdriver as a hammer shows his lack of care and attention to what's being done here,..notice the bits of plastic chipping off the handle when driving in those four blocks, see from the 8:06 mark! If you don't care about your air rifle, then disregard my comments.
Your are Talking Rubbish Dude the cocking arm locates in the piston slot to cock the rifle....The arm has to be removed to disengaged from the Piston or the Piston will not come out will it I can just imagine you forcing it passed the arm and tearing the piston seal to shreds in the process....With a goosed rifle at the end of it.....Great Video by the way triggerpull
Shahriar Nashid Never do that. It's unnecessary and might even damage your rifle. You only coat the piston seal with a very thin layer of grease where it contacts the cylinder.
This is a german 7.5J maximum power airgun. In countries like america they put gigantic springs inside their rifles so I can see why some people get hurt if they open without compressor
I know it's been a while since you have done this video but I wanted to say thanks. Better light, better video, and very clear instruction make your video the best HW99/50 assembly/disassembly on TH-cam by a fair margin.
Interesting to see how much it has changed from my father's 1967 HW50.
😂 that burp @2:42 was disgusting 😂 but great video 👍
😂😂
Excellent, clear tutorial. Many, many thanks. I shall service my HW99S using this. Best wishes.
You are welcome! ^^
Brilliant, thank you
🤜🤜🤘🤘
Great stuff once again. Your hw95/85 vid really helped me with my twangy 85. Hope this does the same for other people.
Timothy Klok Awesome! ^^
very nice sir just bought the hw50s full power, this is going to help, you make it easy, like your video
In 177 or 22?
Great, thanks. 👌🏼😃
😁😁🤜🤜
Über die gute, alte HW50 gibt es kaum Infos ... umso mehr freue ich mich über dieses tolle Video!
Eine Frage zum "Polymer Inlay" bei 3:18 ... Ist das so Original, oder wurde es nachträglich angefertigt, um das "Kratzen" des Spannarms an der Feder zu verhindern?
Alles original. Die HW99 und HW50 leiden darunter, dass der Spannhebel am Zylinder reibt. Hatte HW so versucht zu beheben.
Grazie from Italy!
Hello. Thanks for the interesting video. It seems that a HW50S version sold in Germany is limited to a spring being linked to a maximum of 7.5 Joules due to German law regulations. The HW50S rifles sold in e.g. Belgium is not limited in that respect and therefore seemingly are delivered by Weihrauch to Belgium as a 15 Joules HW50S. Therefore two questions. The first question: your HW50S as shown in the video is a 7.5 Joules HW50S? Since you are removing by hand the end part of the spring assembly by simply pushing down the rifle tube by hand, vertically downwards on the yellow spare seal (as you indicated). So obviously there is indeed very little tension of the max 7.5 Joules spring in the case of your German version HW50S rifle in rest. I assume that there is practically no remaining tension of the result of a 7.5 Joules spring? Can you confirm such? Second question: you mention "Be careful during this step as there could be a bit more tension on it if you own the export version". If the "export version" of the HW50S (such as a HW50S delivered in Belgium) is a 15 Joules spring version (thus the double of the 7.5 Joules German version !) could you possibly inform us about the meaning of "there could be a bit more tension" during a disassembly of the export version of a HW50S ? Does one thus also not need a complete spring decompression-compression set-up to disassemble a 15 Joules spring HW50S (export version)? Can a disassembly still be done by hand for a 15 Joules export version HW50S as you show in the video and since you remark " a bit more tension" ? ... Or is the remaining tension of a 15 Joules spring in an export version HW50S in rest much too high for manual disassembly? Thanks and regards.
Yes, it's the 7,5 Joule version. And as long as you stick to original HW springs 7,5 or 16 Joules there's no need for a spring compressor. Both versions can be disassembled and assembled by hand as long as you don't try to put in the super power magnum springs... ^^
Have done the galling preventing actions like it is shown on the tbt channel ? Is the bisley mobylene grease good to use for lubing ?
I cant seem to punch out the 4 blocks/ squares?? I see the front 2 blocks have "blind holes" at the inside side. But I see No edges of the 2 square (little) blocks. I have the HW50. Do I need to get these squares/blocks Out anyway, to open the rear part?
Sometimes when they drill in the cast some holes are unclean and not cut through completely. Try to punch through the holes where they should be with a fitting allen key or something similar. Can you take a picture of it? Would be interesting to see exactly what you have there.
i put the hw 50 s trigger in my hw 50 but it doesnt work how could i fix this. i heard from the company that they are interchangable
some people talk about the "piston liner" ...where is? inside the piston?
That's the tin sheet liner inside the piston. You can see it through the slot where the cocking arm shoe is riding in. In this video the liner is missing. But if you watch a later HW95 disassemble video from me, you will see the difference.
th-cam.com/video/4f4MzG-UoBQ/w-d-xo.html
Brasil
hey hast du noch nen kanal???????
Lach, die Stimme kenn ich doch 😉
That belch at 2.43 made my day.
A good explanatory vid, these are a good gun, I've had a few over the years ago, l sold a Pro sport and my TX 200, definitely prefer Weihrauch's, think Air arms are over rated, these are lightweight and just as accurate as my Pro Sport was, that being said still my favourite Weihrauch is the HW80K, mine has a 14" barrel and has had work, shooting FTTs 14.6 grain it's doing very good power, 20ft/lb
Robbie from Canada here.
Good video. Not many videos on the new HW50.
Thanks!
2.42......lols
Did he just belch at 2.43??? Too much garlic sausage me thinks !!!
Coming from Nova Scotian Canada here.
Very well done video. Glad I found this . Just purchased a new HW50s a few days ago. Beautiful gun and very accurate but really hard to cock, very stiff and grinding sound , almost as hard returning the barrel to lock position. Something is wrong. I believe the Polly mar inlay, ,think that is what you called it, in the two piece cocking leaver is causing the hard friction and noise. Also the cocking leaver knuckle or joint must be excessively tight, I hope.
I did some research and it appears that this is a very common issue with the 50’s . I read every review on the Internet I could find before my purchase , probably at least 10 , and not one reviewer mention this. That’s a bit disappointing.
I was fortunate to find a couple of TH-cams on how to fix this issue, if that is the problem. I sure hope so as I don’t want to go down the road of having to try to send the gun back which the dealer probably won’t take and then having to deal with the Warranty Dept. I’ve done that before and it was a nightmare. Hope I can fix this.
Thank you again for making this video .
I think it's very common due to the design of the cocking lever. That's why I like the simpler cocking levers on the HW95 more. Hope you can fix yours to your satisfaction! Cheers!
Appreciate the video. I have just stripped down my HW99S which I have just purchased second hand.
It was easy to get it super clean due to your video. Its pretty simple when you've been shown once. I will be doing it on a regular basis from now on. Many Thanks.
Cheers! ^^
Ik had never taken a rifle apart, and thanks to your video I got a old rusty barnfind HW50 back to its original state, including new spring, piston, coldbluing and refinishing the stock! Thanks alot!
Thanks for this id accidentally over oiled my gun which was causing dieseling and laud cracks when discharging pellets i needed to full strip to dry it out
Thanks for this video a big help it really is
Nice clear explanation of strip down and reassembly. I am now happy to do mine now,
Why bother putting those 4 tabs back in?
They are absolutely pointless!
Absolutely! 😂😂😘😘
hello friend, congratulations on the video was very well done and easy to understand.
Well, recently acquired a HW 50 S and'm kinda dissatisfied with the only weapon for a reason that is: to cock the weapon has something scraping and appears to be the lever.
I contacted the seller and he told me to be normal in some HW this problem and after 500 ~ 600 shots the gun to shave and is soft, the already this gun with 400 rounds and continue scraping, I wonder if you already You know of any case like this? My HW already is the one that has a nylon bar on the lever which comes into contact with the chamber of the gun.
sorry my English because I am using a translator.
Since already thank you for your attention, many great shots and a big hug.
Good to see you back. Great video, music was a nice touch! : )
Air Rifle Shooting and Varminting thanks. ^^
Did this lube tune decrease the spring twang and make the firing smoother?
For the spring use chain lube for motorcycles. This will somehow decrease the spring twang.
Good instructions, thanks for this.
Very good. Thankyou !
you are welcome! :D
I would have degreaced all the components with spray and re greaced be loads better cleaner gun and polish all the trigger mechanisms and the piston on a buffer
Thankyou for such a brilliant video! Had no clue on how to maintain my air rifle but now I do. Many thanks! Just a quick question, I take it this guide applies to the HW99S???
You are welcome! Yes it applies to the HW99S.
2:42 = pig.
fruit.
Delicate, are we today, Pedro ? It's a good thing you're not around the guys in my shop then, those guys sometimes have a 'competition' for this.
yes so amusing..
Anybody else see the loose nut inside the trigger assembly? roughest strip & only a partial relube & assembly video I've seen.
It's for the rear trigger guard screw.
Thanks for this ,How often should i clean my rifle ?
2lb - excellent demonstration vid. Tks
You are welcome.
Does this work with a 2022 model as well?
Sure. Since when does HW change the design? The rifles are nearly half a decade old. Still the same. 😬😬😉😉🤜🤜
@@2lbsTrigrPull #madeingermany 😏😁 thanks for the answer!
@@finnzuklampen612 👍👍🤜🤜😉😉
I meant half a century. 😬😬😂😂
I use 10 times less grease than that, the piston only needs a slight smear and well back from the front of the piston.
Whatever works for you!
The best video ever if you want to learn how to work on your Weihrauch HW50. Very, very helpful !!!!
I have the .177 HW99S. It sounds like garbage and really hard to crack. Sounds even rougher closing. Is that a spring issue??
Thank you for this excellent video, can you please tell me the thickness of that two washers . Thank you in advance.
I have got a HW50 from 1979. It has a completely different layout .
Hallo! Ein super Video. Vielen Dank dafür! Eine Frage habe ich. Ich besitze ein HW50s. Der Keil am Lauf ist durch das Öffnen und Schließen ziemlich abgenutzt, so dass der Lauf mit minimalem Kraftaufwand geöffnet werden kann. Auch schließt der Lauf nicht mehr richtig sondern hat minimal Spiel. Kann man diesen Keil selbst erneuern oder muss man hierzu zum Büchsenmacher? Leider finde ich hierzu nichts im Internet. Wäre super wenn Du mir helfen könntest.
Den Keil kann man mit etwas handwerklichem Geschick selbst tauschen. Oder eben zu HW einsenden. Ich würde das Gewehrchen nach Weihrauch schicken. Die machen das. Dauert ein bissl, aber dann ist sie wieder top.
@@2lbsTrigrPull Hallo! Vielen Dank. Ich kontaktiere mal die Firma Weihrauch.
@@2lbsTrigrPullEs gibt übrigens kein Video, dass den Aus- und Einbau des Verschlusskeil zeigt. Das wäre vielleicht ein Fall für Dich 😉 mein like wäre Dir sicher!
Good video and a lot of useful information! Just a question: is this the 7.5J spring version and if I have the export version would I need a spring compressor? For safety reason I believe it's good to add this unless I missed it.
for 16joule spring do you need a spring compressor? thanks
thanks for doing this video,when would you do this after buying it from new,then also how often after
After buying once and then only after the rifle starts acting weird. Loss of power or mechanical failures etc...
thank you, what rifles do you keep/still have
Chris King HW97k, HW95 Deluxe, that's it.
I didn't know you get take the back end off similar to an Air Arms!
sorry, is this rifle full or 7.5 joules?
Good video, this is very helpful. I changed the spring in my gun and found that afterwards it made a rough scratchy sound when i cocked it and i could feel a lot of scraping and resistance. So i put some grease on the spring and it cocked smooth and made no noise. But it dieselled something terrible and smoke came out the muzzle. So i took it apart again and saw that the pistol seal was all burnt and cracked. So what the heck should i do now???
Change the seal
@@sptnk87 Did it. Shoots good now!
Thanks you mate
Kind regards From FR
Dont these normally run with a tin sleeve in the piston? stops twang?
Very nice and clean video, helped me to take down mine without problems, thanks a lot
You use the end of the screwdriver uses a shrink tube? protection?
Great video! Hi all. I'm very new to this (never owned a rifle before and have shot fewer than 500 pellets!) so please bear with me. I suspect I have the galling issue and I'm keen to have a look, but I want to take as little apart as possible because I'm worried I'll cause damage. Is it possible to skip some of the take-down process shown in the video and just do min 0 to 0:18 and then min 2:19 to 3:25, then assemble as shown later in the video. Thanks in advance to anyone who can advise!
For it to check it I think you have to have a look inside the cylinder tube where the cocking shoe rides back and forth in the slot.
thanks for sharing!
You are welcome!
danke dir
Thank you Sir! Well done in every way.
Thank you for this video 👍😎
good video,I thought all HW rifles broke down same with screw.off back end of action .
Only HW35, HW77/97 and HW80. Basically only the ones with bigger zylinder diameter. The smaller rifles like the HW50, HW57, HW85/HW95/HW98 have the pin type.
Very good vídeo !!!
I have a HW50 s/n 736xxx with an internal safety. Also it does not have the four square keepers. Both ends are closed on the receiver (spring housing ) How do I get the spring out? Thanks for any help you can give.
+william sliemers Is there a visible small rim on the last 2" of your receiver? Sound like you got the old style, similar to the HW35/80 or HW77/97 design. If that the case you just knock the pins out that keep the trigger unit and then unscrew the end piece - keep the spring tension in mind here!!
+Nico Nixlos Nico. I sure do appreciate that information and it is just what you said. Thanks for the warning about the spring tension. You have a good day and thanks again.
What is the power in your gun? Joules? Thanks
7,5 Joules.
To ensure no damage by accidental slippage of the screw driver there are the 2:22 mark,.it would be a lot safer to use a properly sized hollow ground screwdriver blades here
( or proper Gunsmithing screwdrivers). Omission of the demonstrator to use the correct tools here do this surprised me!
* Hollow ground screw driver blades fit more snugly in the slot of the screws and thereby lessens the chances of the screw driver winding or 'torquing' out of the slot and scraping the surrounding surfaces. Using the handle of a screwdriver as a hammer shows his lack of care and attention to what's being done here,..notice the bits of plastic chipping off the handle when driving in those four blocks, see from the 8:06 mark!
If you don't care about your air rifle, then disregard my comments.
how do you stop galling?
U dont have to disassemble the whole gun to remove the piston it can be removed with the spring and trigger
Your are Talking Rubbish Dude the cocking arm locates in the piston slot to cock the rifle....The arm has to be removed to disengaged from the Piston or the Piston will not come out will it
I can just imagine you forcing it passed the arm and tearing the piston seal to shreds in the process....With a goosed rifle at the end of it.....Great Video by the way triggerpull
is it necessary to apply silicone chamber oil on the piston seal???
Shahriar Nashid Never do that. It's unnecessary and might even damage your rifle. You only coat the piston seal with a very thin layer of grease where it contacts the cylinder.
Great video thanks.
can this instruction be used for HW30s ?
No. The hw30 is a little different. There is a tutorial video for the hw30 here.
th-cam.com/video/dC6q8kYK1O0/w-d-xo.html
Very good
EXCELLENT Video TY!
Great Video helped a lot
thanks friend
Sterling video sir, thank you!
+Gali B Thank you very muchas.
Schulz
Muito bom
how is price
thank you for great presentation. this is a lot of skill to strip down a rifle and must not be done by untrained people without practice and training.
thx dude, because of you I repaired my rifle
i have like a really sliding noise and the spring makes a diffrent sound was that the same as you had
Heck, I can do that! You make it look easy. I feared opening a spring gun without a spring compressor would lead to injury or death ;-)
Nicely done.
William Jones Ahh always those internet horror stories.... ^^
This is a german 7.5J maximum power airgun. In countries like america they put gigantic springs inside their rifles so I can see why some people get hurt if they open without compressor