CNC Guitar Inlay Part 1 - Design in Fusion 360
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มิ.ย. 2024
- Learn how to design a shell inlay using Fusion 360, and create toolpaths for cutting it out with a CNC router.
See brainright.com/2020/10/10/cnc... for more info, and to download my Fusion 360 project file.
Watch the Part 2 video here: • CNC Guitar Inlay Part ... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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I just want to tell you that you are awesome. The way you explain things so clearly, makes it easy to understand (I'm very new to Fusion 360) and this is the best inlay video I've seen yet... and I've watched a lot of them! LOL Thank you so much!
Now thats a pleasant surprise to see a BrainRight video pop up in notifications. Welcome back Jay, I hope all is well with you.
That's a beautiful inlay BTW. Thank you for the great video showing how you created it 😀👍
After watching a second time, Jay, I realized you did some things I've never considered in the CAM module. Like changing the top height and bottom height for the purposes you gave and that's just something I have not done on jobs. The way you explain each step is straight forward and easy to relate to my own work.
I have done plenty of inlay work with my CNC and Fusion 360 but most all have been wood in wood and larger pieces and I've been creating a copy of the pocket to become the inlay piece for contour cut and making this piece a few thousandths smaller to make sure it fits the pocket. Using the pocket for both the pocket cut and contour cut is also not something I have considered doing, either. I'm not sure I even realized that clicking on the arrow changed which side of the line the CNC will cut - not sure how I missed that! LOL!
But I like your way of using negative stock to leave and may just try that on my next inlay project. I've used negative stock to leave often but not in this instance from the beginning.
So I guess now I'll watch again to see what else I pick up 'cause I learn something each time I watch! Thank you!
I just used the feed rate and depth of cut information you provided to cut out a script logo from 2mm thick mother of pearl with an 0.6mm diameter carbide bit and it worked brilliantly - I didn't even break a bit (which surprised me greatly, as they were only cheap ones from Amazon). I just want to say thank you so much for sharing your experience and the results of your hard work.
Great, I'm glad it worked out well for you. I usually buy bits in pairs, so that if I break one I can cut the feedrate down and finish the project without having to wait for another bit to arrive. But so far I've been very lucky with the small bits and haven't broken any, probably because I'm very cautious about the feed and generally not in a hurry to push it faster. The only times I've broken bits is when I just plain screw something up, and that does happen now and then.
@@BrainRight I bought 10 and still have 10, but one is slightly worn. Nevertheless, thank you again! 🙂
Thanks for a great video, I have learnt a lot from your way of planning tool paths, like, I never considered copying tools the way you have shown here. Thanks again
You're welcome, glad you found it helpful.
This is the best learning video for CNC inlay using Fusion 360! Just completed my fusion 360 class...This video has been so helpful (and inspirational)!!....thanks for taking the time to put this video out there
Jay, I'm glad you are back with a new video. I really enjoy watching your videos. I hope you are well, all the best from Germany :)
Indeed!
Thanks, it's nice to be back doing project videos again.
Another thing I learned from you video, Jay, is that you can scale an image the way you did. I've been doing it a cumbersome trial and error way but yours is so much better!
Great stuff; looking forward to part two!👍😊
You were missed a ton. Glad to see this
Hello, I'm very happy to see you again.
thanks very much for this video! its helped me cut out a headstock inlay and now I'm going to try to use it for a rosette!
Welcome back!
Nice! Thank you!
The only thing I will do differently - I will use adaptive cleaning for the pocket roughing, and pocket tool for finishing. Good idea if you care so much about your bits.
Thank you!
Fantastic tutorial. Thank you!!!
Glad it was helpful!
i was waiting for the GPS on the drone part 5, but nice to see you around.
Hello Jay, glad to see you back. I was just about to send you an email asking about your situation. Glad you are making video's again. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Greetings Edwin, glad you liked the video and I hope you are well in the Netherlands.
Hello, Thank you very much for your great explanation video. I do appreciated.
Well, I was following your method with Fusion 360. And I tried to put some paint colors on each wing, but both of all of wings and the background are getting same color. Yes, I do extrude each wing with a new body and the background with a new component.
I cannot put the specific color individually. DO you have any idea for this issue?
In cutting the wood, would you not what to chance bits to a larger more stable bit to remove the bulk of material or a bit that would match the smallest radius? How do you choose which bit to use?
You can use a larger bit to remove most of the material more quickly, and then switch to a smaller bit for the finishing cuts. But it requires creating a separate toolpath and doing tool changes so it may not save time overall, versus just using the single bit and letting it run unattended. In an upcoming project I am using two bits because the time savings is significant enough.
It's good to see you back doing projects, Jay. This was a good, informative video.
I notice you don't use Smoothing; I started using that not long after I built my CNC and have found the files to be smaller and cuts smoother (not segmented on curves). Is there a reason you don't use Smoothing? Just trying to learn all I can.
Thanks, and I'm looking forward to the second video -
David
Thanks David. I tried to keep things relatively simple for this video by not changing more toolpath settings than necessary, but to be honest I just haven't played with the smoothing setting to see what effect it has on my machine. My guess is that it would be an improvement in some cases because I've noticed that the machine often slows down on curves as if it's not able to process the g-code fast enough to maintain the specified feed rate. It's not really noticeable when cutting most materials but it can cause problems when cutting plastics where I need to maintain a high feed rate to prevent melting. I think it might not make much difference on this particular project because my feed rate is already very slow due to the small diameter bits but I'll play with it and see what effect it has.
It made a huge difference in the file sizes for me and I cut so many curved pieces; I have now cut over 300 Longworth chucks alone. Early on I noticed some issues when someone suggested turning on Smoothing and the issues went away. The bonus was the smaller file size, far fewer lines of code - one program went from about 235,000 lines to about 90,000 - and no more facets on curves.
I have Tolerance defaulted to 0.001" and Smoothing to the same, 0.001", and I run Smoothing on every profile now, even if it's a square with 4 straight lines.
Looking forward to the next video, Jay!
Hello Jay
Just recently stumbled upon your inlay videos. I interested in delving into the CNC router process, but as of yet do not have a CNC machine. Plan to have that in the near future. Based upon this, would it be a good idea to purchase the Infusion software in advance in order to practice and familiarize myself with this software prior to receiving my CNC? I want to make sure I am prepared in advance if that is possible.
Hi Jeffrey - the Autodesk Fusion 360 software is available free for hobbyists so you don't need to buy it, just download and try it out. There are LOTS of Fusion 360 tutorials here on TH-cam so you might want to watch some of them to see if it's a good fit for your needs.
Brian I have a question.. BTW Video is EXCELLENT! I was using the 30 day trial of 360 professional but didnt have time to work on it and it was running out so switched to the 1 year personal version but I have an issue maybe you can help!.. the plane I work from has switched to the vertical Z axis and I have NO idea nor can find documentation to change this so my SVG file from illustrator comes in on the Z axis and Im not sure how to re-orient this and this make a huge problem in tool paths plus makes it difficult to just work around... im sure it simple I just cant find the answer... in the 360 prof version this showed up properly
Sorry I know it's been a month and I thought someone else might jump in with an answer. I only use the free version of F360 so I can't compare the behavior vs. professional and it's been a while since I've imported SVG but as I recall, I just inserted an SVG file into a sketch so the plane was already defined when I created the sketch.
Excellent tutorial. Exactly what I was looking for. I chose F360 because I am an old autocad user. In my professional career as an architect, I remember an associate telling me; "If we don't learn CAD we will be dinosaurs and left behind"...so I am taking the leap into CAD/CAM for my ukulele/guitar building hobby. Your example of the headstock inlay is just what I am hoping to achieve. Your step by step, clearly explained tutorial, is pure gold. Five star. Any recommendations for a first machine for headstock and fret board inlay for a small shop?
Sorry for the delay in replying, and glad you liked the video. As for a first machine recommendation I'd say the two biggest variables are size and rigidity. Size tradeoffs are fairly obvious. Rigidity equals speed, i.e. a more rigid machine can run faster at a given level of accuracy. Even a not-very-rigid machine (like mine, alas) can deliver good accuracy if you slow it down so for a hobbyist it's not so critical but I'd say look for all-metal construction (unlike mine, alas). A water-cooled or air-cooled spindle is definitely a step up from a router motor, if your budget allows. It wasn't overly difficult to convert my machine from its original router motor to the spindle I have now (see my video at th-cam.com/video/AcD7Q4k0gmk/w-d-xo.html), but starting with a spindle drive is a better option. I chose a larger 2.2kW spindle motor because it has ER20 collets, which support the many 1/2-inch-shank router bits I already had, even though I don't need that much motor power.
@@BrainRight I ended up going with the Genmitsu 3020-PRO for my first machine :)
@@LiloUkulele That looks like a nice machine for smaller projects, and possibly more accurate than a bigger one like mine due to much smaller moving mass. I expect you'll get good results with it.
Hi Jay, I am a newby in Fusion 360 and CNC in general. I probably watched this video 20 times. I've been trying to do a multi part mother of pearl inlay on my guitar headstock. I have created my own design and I have followed your instructions, but there is always a glitch when I try to do a simulation. I'm somehow doing this wrong. I hate to ask you for help, but is there anyway you could share your toolpath for this operation? Thank you and Aloha from Hawaii
I added the project file to my web page so you can download it at brainright.com/cnc-guitar-inlay/. I hope that helps get you started.
Aloha
@@BrainRight Thank you very much Jay, This whole thing, makes so much more sense now. Mahalo
hi, I write from Sardinia, an Italian island ---close to paradise---, i have been an hw engin for 14 years and I still am but now I am back living in sardinia and working in woodworking especially accordions (like what they do in Castelfidardo AN italy) but I would like to do some work also with basic guitars (i dig CHEAP things, not expensive 'cause i think in the world there are more than enough expensive producers and so few poor artists incapable to get an instrument). Do you know some books or DVD in english or in italy (especially CREMONA where Stradivari lived), so that i could put some good basics on classical guitar? Also in Sardinia there are a couple of techniques with guitar plus accordion with buttons and voice which is traditional... I would try that too.