Thanks for the video I have a laguna iq cnc when i flip the stock and set z to the spoilboard the machine starts at X0,Y0,Z0 ignoring the stock. I raised z to the top of the neck, but with an angled headstock the bit still goes into the headstock before going up to the top to start clearing. is there a way around this with fusion 360? csn i raise Z zero as high as i need to? Thanks
Its most probably an G28 issue, which must not be included at the beginning of the GCODE file. Please keep in mind: I have no knowledge about your machine. You probably can disable it in the setupform for creating the GCODE file in fusion360. Hope this helps!
Depends on your chosen strategy; i've seen two parts been made (just divide the neck and headstock with the bottom of the headstock as slicing plane), but you could make it in one go if you want :-)
There are more ways of doing this; I just selected the contour, and kept the tool inside the boundary. You could also project the contour onto a sketch let the tool follow that path. What could be of help is to take into account that the strategy uses lead-ins and lead-outs; make these zero to prevent the tool needing this extra space to move. BTW: These tips came to me by using my extra special crystal ball.. :-)
Thank you very much for your detailed videos. Tried do do a Strat Neck and failed (but knew that it will fail on some point). Now I'm using your methods to start again.... I'm completely in the beginning of CAD/CAM , just finished building the MPCNC and did some test cuts which worked out pretty good so far but somehow I think it took way longer than it could. By that I mean that I'm pretty sure I could tweak the cutting feedrate and/or the cut depths. Currently at 1mm depth and 1750mm/h. I've seen you are at 3000mm/h , but I think your CNC is a bit more rigid and maybe the spindle has some more power too, so it might handle it better. Would you have any suggestions here?
In regards to speed: I try to do everything with 3000mm/min. But lately I try to bump up speed with certain strategies (for parallel for instance). In general; in wood, I also try to 'eat' more away in vertical sense than in horizontal ways. I'd rather go 5mm down and eat a 1mm per pass, than the other way around... Have a look at my latest video and you'll see what I mean. For my guitarbody I tried keep the machiningtime around 1 hour per side. But, really, there's no point; the machine is doing its job and won't get tired along the way. :-)
With this neck in particular it took between 30-40 minutes per side. In the meantime I learned how to do it somewhat faster, but still, it's quicker and more precise than if I were to do it by hand. :-)
I'm using a 3d adaptive, I posted a complete picture of all my settings on my blog. If interested, have a look here: www.audiohotshot.nl/routing-the-neck/ Hope this helps!
I need something explained please. I'm having issues with two-sided milling of the neck. I'm very close, but I can't ever get the back to line up with the front side. How do you recommend centering the neck in the stock along with the holes for the dowels? Forgive me for asking but I'm having a dumb moment. Thanks!
There are many ways of doing this. One way to do this is by drawing 4 circles. Each circle has the same distance to the axis around which you want to flip the stock. Then you extrude it (or not) and with a drill strategy you make four holes. The depth can be set with the offset on the bottom hole page. Include the dowel holes sketch or bodies in your modelsetup so setup knows about them and generates GCODE taking into account the correct coordinates. But as I said there are many ways of doing this. Hope this helps. For inspiration, take a look here : th-cam.com/video/sY3E7iepzos/w-d-xo.html (or any other vid of me where i do double sided, you'll see different approaches)
Just found the time... hope this is what you mean: It contains 3 different styles of connecting headstock to a guitar neck, You probably mean the third example in the video. th-cam.com/video/GxZNU6PLybM/w-d-xo.html
Each part of the guitar is specifically created for this particular design. The dimensions I use are in no way matching to existing guitarbodies you might have. In short: you are better off designing your own. If you want to know how I design and draw my guitar, have a look at my other videos.
@@BossTweed69 Just keep practicing and you'll be fine. There's some other great videos out there and you can easily put together a step-by-step process by having a look around. Even if you extrude from some basic 2D plans out there, you can dimension any extruded cuts (might be different for Fusion, I come from a background of SolidWorks) thereafter. :) Hope this helps!
Most of the time it is pretty accurate afaik. Obviously, when I’m adjusting the feedrate by hand during machining it will take some time longer. When your numbers in fusion (like feedrate and so on) are ok, the difference must most probably occur in your cnc controller software. Perhaps you manually by accident override the feeds and speeds?
Just something that I thought of today: perhaps the steps per mm differ (although you are not having size problems, are you?) between your controller software and the hardware microstepping settings on your drivers? Such is easily overlooked when you work with bcnc for example…(you can actually set the amount of steps on the arduino-GRBL-controller different from the drivers that way). But I do realize you do not have a problem with the machine not making the correct dimensions and so on.. so this probably not the solution.. just 2 cents..
Hmmm, I'm not quite sure I see what you mean... Instead: you could check out this other vid of mine and see if this makes more sense to you? th-cam.com/video/8iaGUxPc05M/w-d-xo.html I'll be happy to hear from you.
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Every phase is explained so well, thanks!
At least I’ve tried :-) You are welcome, sir!
Great Job... thank you for sharing your process.
That was really helpful! Glad to be subscriber no. 500!
Welcome! And congrats on being number 500! Glad it’s helpful to you! :-)
What bit are you using for this process?
Please & thank you.
A 6mm flat bit for this one.
@@Audiohotshot thank you!
Thanks for the video I have a laguna iq cnc when i flip the stock and set z to the spoilboard the machine starts at X0,Y0,Z0 ignoring the stock. I raised z to the top of the neck, but with an angled headstock the bit still goes into the headstock before going up to the top to start clearing. is there a way around this with fusion 360? csn i raise Z zero as high as i need to? Thanks
Its most probably an G28 issue, which must not be included at the beginning of the GCODE file. Please keep in mind: I have no knowledge about your machine. You probably can disable it in the setupform for creating the GCODE file in fusion360. Hope this helps!
@@Audiohotshot The tool touch wasnt setting z to zero. Once i figured that out everything is working Thanks
Good, clear and well explained video tutorial.
How CAM and CNC process differs for tilted(angled) headstock guitar neck?
Depends on your chosen strategy; i've seen two parts been made (just divide the neck and headstock with the bottom of the headstock as slicing plane), but you could make it in one go if you want :-)
@@Audiohotshot An idea for your next youtube tutorial :)
Hi! How did you set up the truss rod toolpath? All strategies I've tried give me the empty toolpath with the 6mm flat end mill on a 6mm slot. Thanks!
There are more ways of doing this; I just selected the contour, and kept the tool inside the boundary. You could also project the contour onto a sketch let the tool follow that path.
What could be of help is to take into account that the strategy uses lead-ins and lead-outs; make these zero to prevent the tool needing this extra space to move.
BTW: These tips came to me by using my extra special crystal ball.. :-)
Thank you very much for your detailed videos.
Tried do do a Strat Neck and failed (but knew that it will fail on some point).
Now I'm using your methods to start again....
I'm completely in the beginning of CAD/CAM , just finished building the MPCNC and did some test cuts which worked out pretty good so far but somehow I think it took way longer than it could. By that I mean that I'm pretty sure I could tweak the cutting feedrate and/or the cut depths. Currently at 1mm depth and 1750mm/h. I've seen you are at 3000mm/h , but I think your CNC is a bit more rigid and maybe the spindle has some more power too, so it might handle it better. Would you have any suggestions here?
In regards to speed: I try to do everything with 3000mm/min. But lately I try to bump up speed with certain strategies (for parallel for instance). In general; in wood, I also try to 'eat' more away in vertical sense than in horizontal ways. I'd rather go 5mm down and eat a 1mm per pass, than the other way around... Have a look at my latest video and you'll see what I mean.
For my guitarbody I tried keep the machiningtime around 1 hour per side. But, really, there's no point; the machine is doing its job and won't get tired along the way. :-)
can you show the 3d adaptive clearing settings you used on the back of the neck? Thanks!
Sure! I composed a picture with all the settings regarding the adaptive strategy. Have a look here: www.audiohotshot.nl/routing-the-neck/
How long did it take once you started the machine
With this neck in particular it took between 30-40 minutes per side. In the meantime I learned how to do it somewhat faster, but still, it's quicker and more precise than if I were to do it by hand. :-)
Are you using 2d or 3d adaptive for the back side?
I'm using a 3d adaptive, I posted a complete picture of all my settings on my blog. If interested, have a look here: www.audiohotshot.nl/routing-the-neck/
Hope this helps!
@@Audiohotshot PERFECT!!! You’re awesome!!!!
I need something explained please. I'm having issues with two-sided milling of the neck. I'm very close, but I can't ever get the back to line up with the front side. How do you recommend centering the neck in the stock along with the holes for the dowels? Forgive me for asking but I'm having a dumb moment. Thanks!
There are many ways of doing this. One way to do this is by drawing 4 circles. Each circle has the same distance to the axis around which you want to flip the stock. Then you extrude it (or not) and with a drill strategy you make four holes. The depth can be set with the offset on the bottom hole page. Include the dowel holes sketch or bodies in your modelsetup so setup knows about them and generates GCODE taking into account the correct coordinates.
But as I said there are many ways of doing this. Hope this helps.
For inspiration, take a look here : th-cam.com/video/sY3E7iepzos/w-d-xo.html
(or any other vid of me where i do double sided, you'll see different approaches)
@@Audiohotshot thank you again!
Can you PLEASE do a tutorial on how to make a volute at a 10 degree headstock? The likes of skervesen and such!
As soon as I find the time I sure will give it a try! Thanks for the great idea!
@@Audiohotshot yes please sir! I've been struggling for months! I've only found tutorials for rhino...but I'm an Autodesk guy!
Just found the time... hope this is what you mean: It contains 3 different styles of connecting headstock to a guitar neck, You probably mean the third example in the video. th-cam.com/video/GxZNU6PLybM/w-d-xo.html
Are your files available for download?
Each part of the guitar is specifically created for this particular design. The dimensions I use are in no way matching to existing guitarbodies you might have. In short: you are better off designing your own. If you want to know how I design and draw my guitar, have a look at my other videos.
@@Audiohotshot I'm looking at cutting my own on my cnc but I'm not very good at the design process and struggle with time
@@BossTweed69
Just keep practicing and you'll be fine. There's some other great videos out there and you can easily put together a step-by-step process by having a look around. Even if you extrude from some basic 2D plans out there, you can dimension any extruded cuts (might be different for Fusion, I come from a background of SolidWorks) thereafter. :) Hope this helps!
Do you find fusion 360's machining time predictions to be accurate? Its off by a factor of 3-6 for me.
Most of the time it is pretty accurate afaik. Obviously, when I’m adjusting the feedrate by hand during machining it will take some time longer.
When your numbers in fusion (like feedrate and so on) are ok, the difference must most probably occur in your cnc controller software. Perhaps you manually by accident override the feeds and speeds?
@@Audiohotshot I do not adjust them, but I am sure something is happening during post. Thanks for the reply!
Just something that I thought of today: perhaps the steps per mm differ (although you are not having size problems, are you?) between your controller software and the hardware microstepping settings on your drivers? Such is easily overlooked when you work with bcnc for example…(you can actually set the amount of steps on the arduino-GRBL-controller different from the drivers that way).
But I do realize you do not have a problem with the machine not making the correct dimensions and so on.. so this probably not the solution.. just 2 cents..
Inside the blank why does the head look flipped upside down in comparison to the bolt on end
Hmmm, I'm not quite sure I see what you mean...
Instead: you could check out this other vid of mine and see if this makes more sense to you? th-cam.com/video/8iaGUxPc05M/w-d-xo.html
I'll be happy to hear from you.
I love dutch people
Uhm. Okay. Noted. 😊 ✌️