Love your TH-cam channel Mike. Very detailed and informative videos. Currently repairing a 1958 flh, and also putting together a 51 motor with 50 heads, but changing the intake ports to oring style to fit a super e carb.
You take such care when working on these engines, that says a lot about the pride you take in your workmanship. I won't mention names but there are some others who are just rough and toss the parts around.
Dude, this is awesome. I watched part one already and just finished this one, you have a lot of knowledge about these older Harley motors. I'm a young man (19), so you'd think I'd be into this new technology but this new stuff is really complicated, you practically have to be a rocket scientist to work on it. I'd rather be old school and have something that I can rebuild in my shop with some tools, a bit of knowledge, and maybe a book or two. Thanks for passing on your wisdom to guys like me, we have to keep old stuff like this going
Mike, it seems like you're not alone in digging shovelheads. I put shovel tops on my 1960 FLH. I know some are gonna scream sacrilege! But each to his own. I remember when shovels were the "new" engines. I worked in a small shop in town after my day job when a shovel head motor came in. I bought the top end, complete, from the owner. And when the lower end of my Pan came back from the master of all engine builder's in my area, I topped it off with the shovels which were in excellent condition. Everyone does things his own way and I surely see the logic in checking a lower end the way you did. But I was always taught that when you check the connecting rod big ends of an engine you put the flywheels on the power stroke position. In other words over top dead center, no more than 90° after TDC. That's where the most force is put on the rollers, races and crankpin when the cylinder fires. We used to just check by putting the flywheel in that position and pulling up and down. Although your rubber hammer technique would work well in that position. What do you think? Does that make sense to quick check the play in the rods in the power downstroke position as opposed to any random flywheel position? I know this is an old post, but maybe you or other engine builder's will see it.
I’ve had a couple of Evo sportsters and have been wanting to get a older Harley. Thank you for showing this youngster some of your knowledge ( I mean that with all due respect).
Thank you Mike for a great video. You keep it simple, but still stress the little but yet so important things to watch out for. I just gave my son my 83 fxrt shovelhead and will most definitetly make sure he watches this part 1 & part 2, for he has a yearning to learn more about shovelheads, since rebuilding so many 2 stroke engines. Thanks once again.
You have a lucky kid. Personally, I think what we used to call a "Rubber Shovel" is something very cool. I rode a brand new FXR (I believe it was an '82) demo that Bill Bartels tried to get me to buy when they first came out. We'll be putting the Shovelhead motor back together very soon. Just waiting for a few parts. Thank you for your interest and compliments.
Dave, I'm not sure my emails are functioning properly. So, I'm sending you this message as a test. Please reply to this message, and, I thank you in advance for doing so.
Yes your emails are working. Such a surprise to hear from you again. We just transferred the title from the fxr yesterday in my sons name & he's stoked. He's already watched all your videos. We might have some questions for you in the future. Keep up the videos and good luck Mike.
Thank you, Dave. Everything appears to be fine now. I just drop an email somewhere once in a while. Things appear in order now. I'm way happy for your son. Tell him I said to enjoy that FXR. They won't be making anything that good again.
Yup, those 8/32 screws that hold the ignition plate? I broke one! So.... instead of taking it to a machine shop for the extraction, I attempted to drill it. Well, that didn't end well either! So......bought a OEM nose cone and buttoned it all up with new parts. End of drama! But, I did resemble it with never seize on those little stand off screws. Both Male and female ends. As you know, the littlest stuff will jam you up! Great video Mike, thanks!!
Congrats. It takes some slow and careful moves, sometimes chemicals, sometimes let it sit overnight. But there's almost an "art" to sneaking up on things and not breaking them. Then, there's the important thing: Go for a ride!
excellent video my friend,,,,,,,,,,,,good explanations,,,,,,,,,,,,nice and clean and neat, nothing left to chance............no speed ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,just good clean thorough work,,,,,,,,,i love it...........thanks a million for this kind of video.............
Shovels are easy to pull apart. Going back together takes great care and measuring, these are not exactly plug and play like jappo engine . Takes patience and precision to make a good rebuild. They can go along ways even when cobbled together. Old school tough.
Just curious you mentioned cleaning everything within an inch if it’s life. What do you use to do that, and how exactly do you do it once the top end is disassembled? Thank you for the videos. I bought an old Shovelhead and they have been a lifesaver. I really appreciate the content.
Thank You. I clean lots of ways. I've shown some of them on our videos. A lot of our cleaning is by hand with alcohol. Then there's the sonic cleaner. Then there's media and soda blasting. Go to our TH-cam home page. There are thumbnails and descriptions of all of our videos right there.
Hi Mike. I have a small amount of oil leaking from one of the crankcase studs. Service manual page 3-29, figure 3-35. is the right bottom stud. I remove the skid plate and cleaned everything. Took it for a spin and let it sit. So I know that is the guilty stud. I experimented carefully attempting at removing the nut from the right hand side. But the entire stud spins. I stopped at this point. So I believe what would happen is that it would spin out of the nut on the left hand side or maybe at some point the nut will break free. Not sure. I do not believe there is enough space to pull the stud out on the right hand side. It would run into the frame. I ended up concluding that it's too risky to fix this leak while it's in the frame. That means pulling the engine completely out to do this. That's my conclusion anyway. Wondering what your opinion is on this?
Just a suspicion, but, I believe, if there is no crack in the case, that the oil is leaking somewhere else and gathering at that spot. It could be leaking from the cam cover and running over to the stud. It could be leaking from the oil pump and running down to the stud. It could be leaking between the cases and running over to the stud. More checking will tell. Clean around it real well and see if it gets wet above or forward from that stud.
Hello Mike, Thank YOU for explaining the value of those POP-UP advertisements Historically - I have just "HIT" the button to get on with your You-Tube VIDEO Not realizing that I was depriving YOU & your CREW of valuable Income & a RESOURCE Now that I know you garner a smidgen of REVENUE off the ADVERTISEMENTS ... I let them run their COURSE Thank YOU for your Precise & In-depth instructional VIDEOS COOP ..............................................
Mike, do I have to remove oil pump on a 75 shovel to split the cases. I'm just looking to split and reseal cases. Trying to do it it without removing pump. Not sure if it ca. Be done that way. Thank you
@@pacificmike9501 great thank you Mike for getting back to me, I love watching your videos your like the Bob Ross of motor building. Lol but I'm sure you heard that already. What's the sealer you use to seal case back together
Hi Mike, NICE details & Wonderful idea on your TOOL ( to be duplicated with your permission) Good information on the STOCK Harley-Davidson CAMSHAFTS being STAMPED with an "H" ( does the "H" just designate "H-D" ? or a particular "H" camshaft that Harley used ... ie: as opposed to a Harley "G" or "I" camshaft ??? ) Thanks again for the VIDEO COOP .......................................
Thank You. I don't usually claim an idea as "My original thing." It's because,either someone else showed me, or it was just a logical solution that other people thought of at the same time. I'm not sure what the "H" on the cam stands for, probably FLH. It's a good old stock cam though. I've never run one for any real length of time. There's always something more fun to try.
Hi Mike, That tool you made about 42 years ago to remove the cam cover, what are the specifications? I would like to make one myself. We love your videos, very informative, thanks Mike.... I have a 69 Shovel and would like to learn more about specialized tools Thanks Darren
Okay. If I remember correctly, I use a points cover gasket for a pattern. I used two long 8-32 machine screws with nuts. Now all you need is a 3/8 bolt. Cut out the Piece of steel ( I believe it is 1/4" Steel plate). Then, drill and tap a 3/8 fine thread hole in the center. You may also have to thread the bolt a little A little longer. And there it is.
Hey Mike, I have a 1979 FLH ShovelHead 1200 74CI. I have a brand new set of 80 CI cylinders with the pistons, can I use these with my same heads? If so what would I need to change or update to make this work? Thanks JP
You can use the cylinders, but not the pistons. A 74 cu. in. Shovelhead has a 3 31/32" stroke and a 3 7/16" bore. An 80 cu. in. Shovelhead has a 4 1/4" stroke and a 3 1/2" bore. When I rebuilt my 74" Shovelhead, I installed a pair of 4 1/4" flywheels and bored the cylinders to accept the 3 1/2" pistons designed to use with the 4 1/4" flywheel set. It all works just fine when you do it completely. But, grab those cylinders and pistons if they're nice parts and reasonably priced. You'll use them eventually.
Getting old together I love that I bought a new 1970 flh from Ventura Harley Davidson in june of 1970 frist cone in Ventura co. loved those days any way have a Blessed day my Brother ...Bill
Hey Mike, great vids the bolster my confidence to continue this journey. Doing a similar exploration and refresh on my '75 Shovelhead SG FXE. Testing the lower end in the fashion described. All seems good. No rod/crank up/down endplay is detectable, solid 'thunk' sound with a rap from a rubber mallet. Question, you mention the rods have end play - side to side endplay. Mine do. Male greater than female. Males exceeds the 3/64th specified in the shop man. The doc says or implies that this is relevant only if up/down plan is detected in rod to crank bearing. Therefore, my conclusion, based on the imperfect accuracy of the test described in the vid, the lower end is a reasonable risk; i.e., do the top end only. I realize this is an imperfect science so no guarantee, but it passes the risk litmus test. The side-to-side play in the male connecting rod is irrelevant. Have I got it? thanks
It's not "irrelevant," but not a reason for concern either. You understand, when you fire it up, you'll be fine. We know it's not "new," but, it's not worn out. I really wouldn't worry. But, that being said, I would freshen it up, but I wouldn't put a really wild topend on an old lower end. You appear to have some real good logic going for you. We know wild engines have a shorter lifespan. So, putting a good old lower end to a real rigorous test is not a great idea. From what you say, I'd rebuild the top and go ride my bike.
So I have question I have a 1972 cone shovel motor rear rocker box nut steady dripping oil onto my rear exhaust if it’s not a o ring issue where else should I look for the issue thanks
It's one end of the shaft or the other. Sometimes they just don't seal well and have to be redone. We get better as we go along. Try some whit lithium grease on the 0-Ring.
Hey Mike , Jon from the uk, i have two 79 shovels ,one runs great and a daily rider , the other blows pushrod tube corks and blows smoke when warm out the rear exhaust port. Any ideas to the problem , sifton hydro tappets aftermarket lifter blocks , rebuilt s&s oil pump and cam chest , all is good in there, breather timing etc , any help greatly appreciated, I’m thinking either valve guide seals or piston rings , peace out , ps your videos helped me get the daily rider riding daily 👍
Hi Mike , I’ve checked the breathers and they are good, oil flow is good back to the tank and the pressure relief valve is doing its job, 20psi oil pressure at start up on idle cold and down to about 6-7 when warm. Thanks for your reply Jon
When I received the bike the oil pressure was through the roof, the early cam chest cover was on the bike which I replaced with the correct one for the motor. After that the oil pressure went down to what I consider normal, similar to my other shovel.
I just scrub them with whatever is handy, scotchbrite pads, soap and water in the garage sink. Be sure and oil the cylinder walls when you're done, so they don't rust before you prep them for reassembly.
Hey Mike, Great info.... I bought a 76 Shovel and it has oil leaks everywhere. I believe the cam cover is leaking (I hope it is NOT the inner oil pump gasket) but I want to replace the cam cover gasket. can I remove the cam cover without having to remove the lifters? I understand removing the ignition parts but I hope I do not have to remove the lifter blocks just to get the cam cover off, cleaned up, and a fresh new gasket installed to hopefully stop one of my many leaks.... any other advise you could offer would be GREAT! Thanx in advance.... TD
You'll need to loosen up all of the pushrods so as to relieve the pressure on the camshaft. Not removing the lifters could be a mistake. This is your chance to inspect them. Take it step by step. Consult your service manual.
Hi Mike, you were pulling up on the rod then rubber mallet down right? ...also, what about rod play side to side, didn't see you do that one. I don't remember the magic number for rod side play, do you?
In answer to your first question, the answer is "yes." These are just, "quick checks." "Seems okay. I'm gonna go with it." I normally get about three top end rebuilds required to about "one lower end rebuild." This will vary a lot from rider to rider, depending upon his or her habits. Harley lists "rod side play" as "connecting rod end play." This is listed as ".005-.025 in." Quite a spread. If you were assembling it, you would be concerned with "adequate" clearance and not having it too tight, usually due to worn tapers in the flywheels themselves.
What is your thoughts on using synthetic oil is a shovelhead. I have always use 50 or 60 weight Harley oil since I live is a hot climate. i have two twin cam Harley and my 72 FLH so I know to use synthetic oil in them. I do like these twin cam motors I am going to sell one of both and track down an Evo Harley.
Hey pacific mike! My old mans shovel has been sitting for about 10 years now and im about to start wrenching on it. Any advice on what needs to be done to a 75 flh that has been sitting that long? Please and thank you
You didn't tell me enough info. Was the gas drained? Is it full of old oil? Was it running when it was parked. Is it, or was it fully assembled? Sounds like you want to get started, and I'm excited for you, but I need to know more before I point you in the wrong direction. I'm willing. I need a description (engine, carb, ignition, electric start), you gotta tell me more, and I'll try.
In about a couple of months I am going to start exactly the same project - rebuild 1983 80 inch FXRS motor. I realize I need to get the Service Manual for that particular bike first but after watching a few of your videos I need to ask - where on earth did you get that fancy stubby wrench you are using to undo all the bolts on a head and cylinder? I searched Internet high and low with no success. Thank you.
Any good tool supply should have it. My particular one is a Snap-On. I have a set of them. Other suppliers also have them. They'll get you into some tight places.
YES and his counter man Duke . I beleve we have met at some time do you know Dave Hasen at the shop in Ventura ? I road a 1954 fl with a side car yellow and black I also built the 1939 Harley 61 knuckle that dave has to this day wow small world ride safe my brother ….Bill
Hello Mike love your videos we have talked befor about belt primary any way can you beleve the cone motor is 50 years old this Aug. were have all the time gone ...ride safe my Brother ...Bill
The hard one to believe is that I just got my old cone motor up and running again. The motor went in on the videos, as did the heads, trans, front wheel and front fender. I bought that '77 brand new in 1978. Next month will be 41 years. I promised her back then, we'd get old together.
Hey Mike, I wish I had email address for you but since I don't, I'll ask you a question here. I own an 84FXWG, last of the shovelheads, and I was wondering what the compression should be on my old girl. I've owned it for all but the first two years. I refreshed the top end about 15-20 years ago and a buddy of mine said it was starting to smoke a lil bit last year in Sturgs...any ideas?
Smoke a bit? Shock and amazement. It's an old motor with some old technology. How many miles on it? What pistons did you install? Too many variables. Sorry, I just found your comment and realized it was unanswered.
I just dragged home two barnfind shovelheads. Thanks for posting such good videos. you're like the Bob Ross of Harleys...we love you!
Awesome! Thank you.
You do great work my friend. So glad there are guys like you here to teach us youngsters what old schools all about. Thank you
Thank you. I got lots of help from guys who knew bunches.
Thank you so much for showing the "Soundcheck Trick" Mike !
Not really a trick, just testing for movement. There should be none. just the old way of doing things.
Having all the proper tools and a well organized work space is huge!
Yep
This guy is like the Bob Ross of Harleys.
Thank you.
Thought the same when he was talking about the dog in part 1
Love your TH-cam channel Mike. Very detailed and informative videos. Currently repairing a 1958 flh, and also putting together a 51 motor with 50 heads, but changing the intake ports to oring style to fit a super e carb.
Thank You. I think when Harley O-Ringed those intake ports it was one of the greatest improvements ever.
You take such care when working on these engines, that says a lot about the pride you take in your workmanship. I won't mention names but there are some others who are just rough and toss the parts around.
I'm okay, they're okay, you're okay. When I worked in shops, I always avoided this sort of talk. I appreciate your compliments.
Awesome. Like the way you explain and do things. You have a very organized process
Thank you so much 😊
Dude, this is awesome. I watched part one already and just finished this one, you have a lot of knowledge about these older Harley motors. I'm a young man (19), so you'd think I'd be into this new technology but this new stuff is really complicated, you practically have to be a rocket scientist to work on it. I'd rather be old school and have something that I can rebuild in my shop with some tools, a bit of knowledge, and maybe a book or two. Thanks for passing on your wisdom to guys like me, we have to keep old stuff like this going
Just remember, "The new stuff mostly bolts together. It was made by computerized equipment. The old stuff has to be fitted by hand."
Mike, You are the Bob Ross of Shovelhead rebuilds. I love your videos. I would have liked to see you taking the pistons off the rods though.
Thank you. In time, we'll show more stuff, since it's being requested. Been playing this by ear.
Mike, it seems like you're not alone in digging shovelheads. I put shovel tops on my 1960 FLH. I know some are gonna scream sacrilege! But each to his own. I remember when shovels were the "new" engines. I worked in a small shop in town after my day job when a shovel head motor came in. I bought the top end, complete, from the owner. And when the lower end of my Pan came back from the master of all engine builder's in my area, I topped it off with the shovels which were in excellent condition.
Everyone does things his own way and I surely see the logic in checking a lower end the way you did. But I was always taught that when you check the connecting rod big ends of an engine you put the flywheels on the power stroke position. In other words over top dead center, no more than 90° after TDC. That's where the most force is put on the rollers, races and crankpin when the cylinder fires. We used to just check by putting the flywheel in that position and pulling up and down. Although your rubber hammer technique would work well in that position.
What do you think? Does that make sense to quick check the play in the rods in the power downstroke position as opposed to any random flywheel position? I know this is an old post, but maybe you or other engine builder's will see it.
I do believe you are correct.
Like Christmas in August, a Pacific Mike double feature!
Thank you. We put stuff up as it happens. Glad you like it.
I’ve had a couple of Evo sportsters and have been wanting to get a older Harley. Thank you for showing this youngster some of your knowledge ( I mean that with all due respect).
And I thank you.
Thank you Mike for a great video. You keep it simple, but still stress the little but yet so important things to watch out for. I just gave my son my 83 fxrt shovelhead and will most definitetly make sure he watches this part 1 & part 2, for he has a yearning to learn more about shovelheads, since rebuilding so many 2 stroke engines. Thanks once again.
You have a lucky kid. Personally, I think what we used to call a "Rubber Shovel" is something very cool. I rode a brand new FXR (I believe it was an '82) demo that Bill Bartels tried to get me to buy when they first came out. We'll be putting the Shovelhead motor back together very soon. Just waiting for a few parts. Thank you for your interest and compliments.
Dave, I'm not sure my emails are functioning properly. So, I'm sending you this message as a test. Please reply to this message, and, I thank you in advance for doing so.
Yes your emails are working. Such a surprise to hear from you again. We just transferred the title from the fxr yesterday in my sons name & he's stoked. He's already watched all your videos. We might have some questions for you in the future. Keep up the videos and good luck Mike.
Thank you, Dave. Everything appears to be fine now. I just drop an email somewhere once in a while. Things appear in order now. I'm way happy for your son. Tell him I said to enjoy that FXR. They won't be making anything that good again.
Mike, you stuff is so enjoyable. Love to have your knowledge.
Thank you. Keep watching our videos. You'll learn it and pick up things on your own.
Another one of your great videos. Very well done.
Thank You.
Yup, those 8/32 screws that hold the ignition plate? I broke one! So.... instead of taking it to a machine shop for the extraction, I attempted to drill it. Well, that didn't end well either! So......bought a OEM nose cone and buttoned it all up with new parts. End of drama! But, I did resemble it with never seize on those little stand off screws. Both Male and female ends. As you know, the littlest stuff will jam you up! Great video Mike, thanks!!
Congrats. It takes some slow and careful moves, sometimes chemicals, sometimes let it sit overnight. But there's almost an "art" to sneaking up on things and not breaking them. Then, there's the important thing: Go for a ride!
The Bob Ross of Harley mechanics.
Thank You.
Awesome video! Im trying to rebuilt a 1969 Shovelhead dyna..
Dynas didn't come out until FXR's weren't built any more. Thank You, but I don't know what a 69 Dyna is.
excellent video my friend,,,,,,,,,,,,good explanations,,,,,,,,,,,,nice and clean and neat, nothing left to chance............no speed ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,just good clean thorough work,,,,,,,,,i love it...........thanks a million for this kind of video.............
Glad you liked it! Thank You.
Awesome. Great to see. old school is true school
Thank You.
Shovels are easy to pull apart. Going back together takes great care and measuring, these are not exactly plug and play like jappo engine . Takes patience and precision to make a good rebuild. They can go along ways even when cobbled together. Old school tough.
Fun stuff.
Just curious you mentioned cleaning everything within an inch if it’s life. What do you use to do that, and how exactly do you do it once the top end is disassembled? Thank you for the videos. I bought an old Shovelhead and they have been a lifesaver. I really appreciate the content.
Thank You. I clean lots of ways. I've shown some of them on our videos. A lot of our cleaning is by hand with alcohol. Then there's the sonic cleaner. Then there's media and soda blasting. Go to our TH-cam home page. There are thumbnails and descriptions of all of our videos right there.
Your videos are great, they've helped me a ton!
Thank you. Glad to be of service.
Hi Mike. I have a small amount of oil leaking from one of the crankcase studs. Service manual page 3-29, figure 3-35. is the right bottom stud. I remove the skid plate and cleaned everything. Took it for a spin and let it sit. So I know that is the guilty stud. I experimented carefully attempting at removing the nut from the right hand side. But the entire stud spins. I stopped at this point. So I believe what would happen is that it would spin out of the nut on the left hand side or maybe at some point the nut will break free. Not sure. I do not believe there is enough space to pull the stud out on the right hand side. It would run into the frame. I ended up concluding that it's too risky to fix this leak while it's in the frame. That means pulling the engine completely out to do this. That's my conclusion anyway. Wondering what your opinion is on this?
Just a suspicion, but, I believe, if there is no crack in the case, that the oil is leaking somewhere else and gathering at that spot. It could be leaking from the cam cover and running over to the stud. It could be leaking from the oil pump and running down to the stud. It could be leaking between the cases and running over to the stud. More checking will tell. Clean around it real well and see if it gets wet above or forward from that stud.
@@pacificmike9501 I will 1000% check. Ty vm.
Mike where can i purchase a compensator socket will allow me to turn the motor to align push rods. Also the head bolt wrench. Thanks Mike. Cliff Sr
Any good tool supply. The socket for your compensator is probably 1 1/2". Head bolts? 9/16 torque adapter is what I use.
Thank you for making these videos man!
Thank you for watching them.
Thank you for the knowledge, sir.
Thank you. We hope you continue to benefit from our efforts.
Thank you mike , will be ready for part 3.
Coming soon. Thank you.
I need to replace my cam cover, One side of the 8/32 has stripped again. Already had a 8/32 heli coil installed. So ordered a new cover.
Sometimes they fit and sometimes they don't. Check your manual. Not everything is obvious. Bushings must line up.
Hello Mike,
Thank YOU for explaining the value of those POP-UP advertisements
Historically - I have just "HIT" the button to get on with your You-Tube VIDEO
Not realizing that I was depriving YOU & your CREW of valuable Income & a RESOURCE
Now that I know you garner a smidgen of REVENUE off the ADVERTISEMENTS ... I let them run their COURSE
Thank YOU for your Precise & In-depth instructional VIDEOS
COOP
..............................................
Mike, do I have to remove oil pump on a 75 shovel to split the cases. I'm just looking to split and reseal cases. Trying to do it it without removing pump. Not sure if it ca. Be done that way. Thank you
No, you don't have to, but you're going to remove the cam cover to remove the right case.
@@pacificmike9501 great thank you Mike for getting back to me, I love watching your videos your like the Bob Ross of motor building. Lol but I'm sure you heard that already. What's the sealer you use to seal case back together
Great video Mike!
Thank you.
Great videos. I’ve learned a lot.
Thank you.
Hi Mike,
NICE details & Wonderful idea on your TOOL ( to be duplicated with your permission)
Good information on the STOCK Harley-Davidson CAMSHAFTS being STAMPED with an "H"
( does the "H" just designate "H-D" ? or a particular "H" camshaft that Harley used ... ie: as opposed to a Harley "G" or "I" camshaft ??? )
Thanks again for the VIDEO
COOP
.......................................
Thank You. I don't usually claim an idea as "My original thing." It's because,either someone else showed me, or it was just a logical solution that other people thought of at the same time. I'm not sure what the "H" on the cam stands for, probably FLH. It's a good old stock cam though. I've never run one for any real length of time. There's always something more fun to try.
Hi Mike,
That tool you made about 42 years ago to remove the cam cover, what are the specifications?
I would like to make one myself.
We love your videos, very informative, thanks Mike....
I have a 69 Shovel and would like to learn more about specialized tools
Thanks
Darren
Okay. If I remember correctly, I use a points cover gasket for a pattern. I used two long 8-32 machine screws with nuts. Now all you need is a 3/8 bolt. Cut out the Piece of steel ( I believe it is 1/4" Steel plate). Then, drill and tap a 3/8 fine thread hole in the center. You may also have to thread the bolt a little A little longer. And there it is.
Hey Mike, I have a 1979 FLH ShovelHead 1200 74CI. I have a brand new set of 80 CI cylinders with the pistons, can I use these with my same heads? If so what would I need to change or update to make this work? Thanks JP
You can use the cylinders, but not the pistons. A 74 cu. in. Shovelhead has a 3 31/32" stroke and a 3 7/16" bore. An 80 cu. in. Shovelhead has a 4 1/4" stroke and a 3 1/2" bore. When I rebuilt my 74" Shovelhead, I installed a pair of 4 1/4" flywheels and bored the cylinders to accept the 3 1/2" pistons designed to use with the 4 1/4" flywheel set. It all works just fine when you do it completely. But, grab those cylinders and pistons if they're nice parts and reasonably priced. You'll use them eventually.
Getting old together I love that I bought a new 1970 flh from Ventura Harley Davidson in june of 1970 frist cone in Ventura co. loved those days any way have a Blessed day my Brother ...Bill
Did Monty yell at you when he sold it to you? Yes, they were great days my friend.
Hi Mike,
Merry Christmas
How do you check the side play in the rods? Thanks, Steve
Reach in and use a feeler gauge. Don't go crazy. If it's running well and has no up and down movement, you're okay.
Thanks
Hey Mike, great vids the bolster my confidence to continue this journey. Doing a similar exploration and refresh on my '75 Shovelhead SG FXE. Testing the lower end in the fashion described. All seems good. No rod/crank up/down endplay is detectable, solid 'thunk' sound with a rap from a rubber mallet.
Question, you mention the rods have end play - side to side endplay. Mine do. Male greater than female. Males exceeds the 3/64th specified in the shop man. The doc says or implies that this is relevant only if up/down plan is detected in rod to crank bearing.
Therefore, my conclusion, based on the imperfect accuracy of the test described in the vid, the lower end is a reasonable risk; i.e., do the top end only.
I realize this is an imperfect science so no guarantee, but it passes the risk litmus test. The side-to-side play in the male connecting rod is irrelevant.
Have I got it? thanks
It's not "irrelevant," but not a reason for concern either. You understand, when you fire it up, you'll be fine. We know it's not "new," but, it's not worn out. I really wouldn't worry. But, that being said, I would freshen it up, but I wouldn't put a really wild topend on an old lower end. You appear to have some real good logic going for you. We know wild engines have a shorter lifespan. So, putting a good old lower end to a real rigorous test is not a great idea. From what you say, I'd rebuild the top and go ride my bike.
Mike. Thanks. Top end rebuild, stock or very close. May go for the roller rocker arms and modern lifters. Thanks vm
Great videos thank you!! Any chance you might be doing a vid on panhead engine rebuild soon?
Eventually
beautiful
Thank you! 😊
So I have question I have a 1972 cone shovel motor rear rocker box nut steady dripping oil onto my rear exhaust if it’s not a o ring issue where else should I look for the issue thanks
It's one end of the shaft or the other. Sometimes they just don't seal well and have to be redone. We get better as we go along. Try some whit lithium grease on the 0-Ring.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks mike I’ll try that I appreciate your videos more than you know and my panhead and shovelhead do as well
Hey Mike , Jon from the uk, i have two 79 shovels ,one runs great and a daily rider , the other blows pushrod tube corks and blows smoke when warm out the rear exhaust port. Any ideas to the problem , sifton hydro tappets aftermarket lifter blocks , rebuilt s&s oil pump and cam chest , all is good in there, breather timing etc , any help greatly appreciated, I’m thinking either valve guide seals or piston rings , peace out , ps your videos helped me get the daily rider riding daily 👍
Is your crankcase breathing? Is your oil returning to the tank? Look into the tank with the motor running. Is the pistorn in the oil pump functioning?
I need those questions answered. Then, maybe we can diagnose fairly well.
Hi Mike , I’ve checked the breathers and they are good, oil flow is good back to the tank and the pressure relief valve is doing its job, 20psi oil pressure at start up on idle cold and down to about 6-7 when warm. Thanks for your reply Jon
When I received the bike the oil pressure was through the roof, the early cam chest cover was on the bike which I replaced with the correct one for the motor. After that the oil pressure went down to what I consider normal, similar to my other shovel.
Sounds like you're learning a bunch. Very cool.
Hi Mike. Appreciate your videos. What product do you recommend for cleaning the inside of the cylinder and head?
I just scrub them with whatever is handy, scotchbrite pads, soap and water in the garage sink. Be sure and oil the cylinder walls when you're done, so they don't rust before you prep them for reassembly.
Hey Mike, Great info.... I bought a 76 Shovel and it has oil leaks everywhere. I believe the cam cover is leaking (I hope it is NOT the inner oil pump gasket) but I want to replace the cam cover gasket. can I remove the cam cover without having to remove the lifters? I understand removing the ignition parts but I hope I do not have to remove the lifter blocks just to get the cam cover off, cleaned up, and a fresh new gasket installed to hopefully stop one of my many leaks.... any other advise you could offer would be GREAT! Thanx in advance.... TD
You'll need to loosen up all of the pushrods so as to relieve the pressure on the camshaft. Not removing the lifters could be a mistake. This is your chance to inspect them. Take it step by step. Consult your service manual.
Hi Mike, you were pulling up on the rod then rubber mallet down right? ...also, what about rod play side to side, didn't see you do that one. I don't remember the magic number for rod side play, do you?
In answer to your first question, the answer is "yes." These are just, "quick checks." "Seems okay. I'm gonna go with it." I normally get about three top end rebuilds required to about "one lower end rebuild." This will vary a lot from rider to rider, depending upon his or her habits. Harley lists "rod side play" as "connecting rod end play." This is listed as ".005-.025 in." Quite a spread. If you were assembling it, you would be concerned with "adequate" clearance and not having it too tight, usually due to worn tapers in the flywheels themselves.
What is your thoughts on using synthetic oil is a shovelhead. I have always use 50 or 60 weight Harley oil since I live is a hot climate. i have two twin cam Harley and my 72 FLH so I know to use synthetic oil in them. I do like these twin cam motors I am going to sell one of both and track down an Evo Harley.
I really don't have recommendations on synthetic oil. I apologize for that.
Hey mike is there a certain kit you recommend buying for all new bolts and nuts?
The brand that comes to mind is "Colony," and V--Twin in New York carries their sets.
Hey pacific mike! My old mans shovel has been sitting for about 10 years now and im about to start wrenching on it. Any advice on what needs to be done to a 75 flh that has been sitting that long? Please and thank you
You didn't tell me enough info. Was the gas drained? Is it full of old oil? Was it running when it was parked. Is it, or was it fully assembled? Sounds like you want to get started, and I'm excited for you, but I need to know more before I point you in the wrong direction. I'm willing. I need a description (engine, carb, ignition, electric start), you gotta tell me more, and I'll try.
Hey Mike, what size are those bolts for the puller? I'm thinking of making one.
8 x 32.
In about a couple of months I am going to start exactly the same project - rebuild 1983 80 inch FXRS motor. I realize I need to get the Service Manual for that particular bike first but after watching a few of your videos I need to ask - where on earth did you get that fancy stubby wrench you are using to undo all the bolts on a head and cylinder? I searched Internet high and low with no success. Thank you.
Any good tool supply should have it. My particular one is a Snap-On. I have a set of them. Other suppliers also have them. They'll get you into some tight places.
This is for future viewers inquiring about the "stubby wrench". Search for a torque adapter.
My bike is called "my old lady"Her lower end has always felt pretty fine to me. Will you be doing jugs later?
Try the next Shovelhead video. It's under our playlist, accessible on the Pacific Mike youtube homepage.
Not worried obout messing up cam like that?
Standard way to do it. Very little pressure.
YES and his counter man Duke . I beleve we have met at some time do you know Dave Hasen at the shop in Ventura ? I road a 1954 fl with a side car yellow and black I also built the 1939 Harley 61 knuckle that dave has to this day wow small world ride safe my brother ….Bill
Most likely. and, I know Dave very well. I remember both of those bikes very well.
See you at the next Chopperfest.
Hello Mike love your videos we have talked befor about belt primary any way can you beleve the cone motor is 50 years old this Aug. were have all the time gone ...ride safe my Brother ...Bill
The hard one to believe is that I just got my old cone motor up and running again. The motor went in on the videos, as did the heads, trans, front wheel and front fender. I bought that '77 brand new in 1978. Next month will be 41 years. I promised her back then, we'd get old together.
Hey Mike, I wish I had email address for you but since I don't, I'll ask you a question here. I own an 84FXWG, last of the shovelheads, and I was wondering what the compression should be on my old girl. I've owned it for all but the first two years. I refreshed the top end about 15-20 years ago and a buddy of mine said it was starting to smoke a lil bit last year in Sturgs...any ideas?
Smoke a bit? Shock and amazement. It's an old motor with some old technology. How many miles on it? What pistons did you install? Too many variables. Sorry, I just found your comment and realized it was unanswered.
You've got the experience, but using 8/32 screws in a puller application would make me very nervous.
It takes very little pull to do the job. 40 years with the same pair of 8/32's proves it.
👍
Thank You.
Is there a specific email that I could contact you at Mike? Have a very questions about a rebuild..
Just send it in to the comment section. I'll do my best to answer it.