Awesome work Jon! Both in the workshop and the editing office. Thanks for the shout out😸 taking off a teak deck in two pieces has only happened once in my career but it sure was satisfying. We took a wholesaw to it in the end and sent over 300 custom teak coasters to some of our patreons:) i was pretty happy with that creative souvenir to continue its life after 45 years of being our decks. I would guess that the stuff you were wondering about in your bulwarks is some kind of polyester resin. Cheers, Aladino
Thanks Aladino. I didn’t catch the update I guess about your decks. That’s a great idea. It’s actually something I was thinking about 🤦♂️. Haha. I will have to rebuild the panels though if I want to make anything like that because mine came apart mostly in individual strips. Great minds think alike maybe 🤔. Thanks again for checking out my project. It’s so appreciated!! 👍
@YachtHunters Hi! Thanks for checking out the channel! I’m a big fan. A few years ago you guys did a walkthrough of a really nice Liberty 49 so Antidote is like the little cousin to that boat.
@@livingforsail and not so little!! That was a cool boat and much like yours, had a sweet fantail. Lots of beautiful work coming out of Taiwan... yours in no exception :)
Hi guys. Thanks for checking in! I’ve been following your boat build also. Very cool build going on there. Excited to see what’s next for you two with that. 🙏👍
Nah, give up on the teak, it's too far gone and would be a OMG maintenance hog. I wonder if you could use Trex wood composite boards? I've never heard if salt water would make toast of them.... All in all, I think you are doing a FANTASTIC job on your videos John. Lots of cool info and graphics. You have great delivery with just the right amount of humor, not over doing it and being cringeworthy. I really hope people discover you!!!
Thanks Dave. I think we are in agreement on those decks... I will look into some options in the future videos. I appreciate your continued support and encouragement. THANKS!!
Love the shout out to Magic Carpet -- Dini is magic, that's all I can say, there's no may anything other than pure magic removed that deck! But I also think theirs was in significantly better condition than yours, and maybe that made the sailing gods smile upon their endeavors.
That thick black foam pad is amazing! I should put that a link to that in the description! It has honestly saved my knees. WAY better than wearing knee pads. Thanks for the input!! Cheers
I’ve got Eric the eagle on my team. I’ve had to talk to him a few times - his work is exemplary for the first few hours then he starts letting the team down badly. Birds start walking close by and he does exactly nothing about it! On a more serious note.. I’m a convert to Robertson head screws when it comes to boat building. They don’t cam out like Phillips, and the bit won’t slide sideways like slot headed screws. They make a great combo with impact drivers, and enable driving straight into solid hardwood with no contest, though care needs to be taken - bronze into oak or similar can shear off under load. They're fast and efficient. Keep up the good work.
Hi Robin, good tip there too. For those reading that have no idea what a “Robertson” is, they are the square bits. I like them too. Another plus is that they will “stick” to the driver so you can install one handed. Something that Phillips and star drives don’t do well. I think they are a Canadian design… like me. 😂🇨🇦
Thank you! 🙏 Yeah my father enjoys working on the project when he can. He’s recently retired from the construction industry so even if he can’t be here to help he gets to see some of his old tools pushing the project forward 👍🙌
Great video. Nice smooth editing. Looked like you and the owl were having a hoot. Great idea to keep gulls etc away, but you could end up with 200 owls!! 👍⚓️🇬🇧😎
John, I liked this channel after the first episode. I like that boat. I looked at one during my search in the late '80s/ and the '90s. It was just out of my price range as a military retiree. The only reason I was able to afford the Kalik 44 I got instead was that the teak decks were unseviceable also. But they were uniquely applied. In casting the deck, they (Vennekins/Belgium/1983) put ⅝" plywood in the mold first and then sprayed the gelcoat and applied the glass layers over that. When the hull and deck were later joined they then applied the teak onto the plywood with 5200 and little SS finishing nails. There were no screws at all in the wood or through the deck. It was actually a better idea. However the boat was owned by a pair of lawyers who didn't sail much so put the boat into charter. They did nothing to maintain it at all. When the teak wore down like your's has, The black seam sealer shrunk and rain water got under the teak and into the plywood. It, too, was not salvageable. I had to do what you are doing, only in Chicago. My plastic covered ¾"PVC support arches on 24" centers collapsed 3 times under the snow loads! But I did get it all off also. I saved all but a few of my teak deck planks in the hopes of using it again in an even better plan for fastening it down. So I'm anxiously awaiting to see how you handle these same problems! I am enjoying your subtle sense of humor. I will take note of how long you can maintain that.
Great work Jon, heart breaking seeing teak looking so worn out, but 34 yrs, we all wear out, enjoying all your updates, and what a beautiful boat! Good luck from the UK
Thank you. It is sad indeed. I love the teak too but the old method of laying them down with thousands of screws is just not very practical in the long run… Thanks for watching! Glad to have you with us!
Another method to access the deck screws is to use a plug cutter. The designed purpose of the tool is to make teak or other wood plugs. But if you use a cutter the size of your deck plug, the plug cutter's outside diameter will be just a bit bigger. Center it over the plug, and slowly cut down. The wood around the screw will come out when you withdraw the cutter. Thereby exposing the screw. An added benefit is if the screw head is deformed and won't accept a bit, often you can get a grip on the sides of the screw and simply unscrew it. In this case you didn't want to save the wood, but if you did, I've found that the outside dimeter of the plug cutter is just right for the next size bigger plug. Not always but often. You are doing an amazing job. Stay the course.
You are talking to a fellow wood hoarder. We also have a similar project down our road. I would prefer to keep the teak as long as possible tho. thanks for the video
That original sail track removal brings back nightmares. Had to do that on my 1984 458 when it was about 20 years along. The slot screws had raised up due to salt and the cars no longer ran. Was a multi-week job to get them out. Replaced them with phillips.
Yeah, I think when yours was built they were using mild steel inside the bulwarks. I’m PRETTY sure that mine are stainless, but still a pain… like you, ditching the flat heads in this application! 🙌
Some really cool stuff, John. Teak is nice, but labour intensive considering the abrasive nature of the salt and sea. I'd remove the teak for good, sand the deck back and epoxy paint them, then apply kiwi grip after. Keep at it Amigo
Guessing there was atleast 5k screws on the deck... you definitely did it the cleanest way I've seen. Most people break the teak and screws resulting in alot more work
Glazier’s tool! This would have come in handy when I was removing baseboards. I wonder what my wife thinks about TH-cam videos that show me cool stuff to buy and cause me to spend money. Haha. Kidding of course. Buying tools is always cheaper than paying a professional to do the work. Unless of course this unprofessional has to do it more than once😅
I am somehow always able to justify spending money on tools. This current project presents a lot more opportunities for that 😜. The glaziers bar is great for baseboards also 👍
A impact driver.. the one you hit with a hammer works great for screws .. also marvels mystery oil does amazing things to rusty hardware and rusty metal including getting rust stains from chrome or stainless steel
Good episode John 👍 Professor Owl could use a bit more of a salty sailors name though ? and if some genius could fit a small electric motor inside his body to turn his head left or right , it could be hilarious to catch un-supecting guests off guard to see if they jump 😹😸😺
Yeah. I like Wowldo because it is hard to spell and difficult to pronounce. As I said earlier: “There has to be a harder way!?” 😂 It’s also confusing until you realize I was raised in the 80’s and 90’s when “where’s Waldo” books ruled the playgrounds. I like the animatronic idea. Haha
I must admit I used to love looking after Teak on deck. hated Varnish though, as to me, just blocked the ability to feed the Teak, though the finished look was different. tbh that's now over as it was such a struggle due to disability, my next boat will have white nonslip on Ca in top and side decks and aft Cockpit sole, the rest synthetic Teak, which will help reduce heat absorption below, as I'll mostly be in the Tropics. There's a very nice "Soft" ish non slip made in the USA, which is much kinder to bare feet and knees, I hope to have done for me, if I can remember its name. Nice Woodwork below will keep me happy, ut with No Plywood involved in any of the structure, as having built a boat with expensive best quality hardwood Marine Ply, I Never Again want that stuff Anywhere on a Boat, not even as embedded pieces to fix things onto. Best Wishes for what you do on Deck there, I hope it all turns out as good as you would like it to. Bob in Wales. 👍⛵️✨️✨️✨️
Hi Bob. I agree that the teak is wonderful but with its own set of challenges. If you recall the name of the synthetic teak that you are considering, please do let me know. I wish you the best with your future improvements to your boat. Cheers! 👍🙌
@@livingforsail In Testing of the top three synthetic Teaks by Yachting News, Flexiteek came top, and to me, in addition to it being the Lightest, important for keeping the above waterline weight down, they have a patented design at the bottom glued side, to help eliminate bubbles in the glue, and it was the best for dissipation of heat. seems at least as hard wearing as the others, plus has the benefit of a transferable 10 year guarantee, plus of the three, was the most natural and realistic looking. As I'll have such a small amount of it on my next boat, I'll go with whatever the Boatbuilder Recommends, as it'll be mostly coveted by the Seat Cushions anyway. Hopefully that helps. Best Wishes and Fair Winds. Bob in Wales. 👍⛵️✨️✨️✨️
Hey good for you ! We are doing up an old pan oceanic 46 just did all the core and pulled up decks, we will also be doing an inside refilt - yours looks good inside!
Hi Fiona. Thanks!! 🙏. The decks here will need some work for sure. I’ll show more about that in the next video. It sounds like you can empathize with my impending knee pain 😂
Looks great. Thinking it might be nice to save the cockpit and locker covers and nurse those along but definitely would let the teak deck go. Guessing you will re core the wet spots, countersink and fill the holes and add a layer of finishing cloth before the nonskid.
I agree that some of the teak I lay pads are nice and I will try to keep and/or restore. We will have to wait and see how the core looks before deciding to glass over or dig in for replacement. Thanks for watching along with us!!
@livingforsail 4k clear coat is UV resistant and is what you can use on polished metal or if you redo your headlights.. I learned how to polish metal with a high speed grinder as a teenager to make cash in the warm months here in the midwest. I have polished up all the aluminum on a buddies older Harley sportster and he isn't the kind to go around once in awhile and go over it by hand so I sprayed it down with 4k clear coat and that was several years ago.. it comes in a rattle can.. your bronze pieces would look amazing polished up.. atleast in my opinion.. I have that old school taste.. beautiful wood that shines and if it's metal it has to shine..
About the screws removal from the wood, here is a link to a video of an old shipwright with great knowledge. 1.th-cam.com/video/tb-VXCGVq2Y/w-d-xo.html 2.th-cam.com/video/l0AdZPcw8Pw/w-d-xo.html Also there is another video, couldn't find it, where he presents why not to use cross head screws, only flathead screws, but I'm sure you already figured that out. PS. I know it's a bit late, but I hope you find it useful in the future, if not this tip, then maybe you find another one.
Thank you for the input! I watched the videos. Great advice from a man that knows his stuff!! I’d never seen his work before. Thanks for sharing. I think it was Aladino from magic carpet that recommended staying with flat heads because it’s easy to clean the heads out before removal. Cheers.
The older Taiwanese trawlers all came with teak decks, and they leaked. I wonder if you couldn't just sand the teak smooth, then cover with epoxy and cloth, go right over the old teak. Would this leak? Sure save a lot of work.
Unfortunately the problem is that the way the teak was installed allows water to damage the deck core (usually wood) and so that would just be a bandaid fix… not really my style. Thanks for watching. 🙏🙌👍
I'm looking at an '88 boat with teak decks. Very high end builder and the claim is that all the screw holes are sealed such that no water can penetrate. I'm very skeptical. Hopefully the price you paid reflects the extent of the refit.
The price was fair-ish. I would have loved to pay less but even at $0 you would have to want to do this kind of project for it to make any sense. There is no “money saving” happening here! 🤷♂️. I am skeptical of any teak deck installation that uses screws and claims to be leak free. I would venture to say it’s not possible…
@livingforsail I'm 4 years into an unplanned refit on a "free" Tartan 37. I use the boat extensively but I'm basically always working on it. Free was too expensive but I've learned a lot in the process. Now I'm faced with a major deck restoration project with no boat shed which is why I'm considering other boats. I respect people like you who take on a massive project knowing they won't sail for years but I just can't do it myself. I need to sail my boat and in doing so I figure out very quickly what issues need to be resolved and what I like vs not like. In my view, no restoration is really complete until the boat is thoroughly tested. I'm not getting any younger either so sailing now is really important. Takes the sting out of all the work and expenses.
@@jessefalsone1247 yeah, I laugh when people ask “when will it be done” 🤣 I think you’re wise to take the approach you do. We have access to a nice 30’ coastal boat to keep the itch at bay and this is a good season of life for me to take on this project. It’s not for everyone… I have met people that paid between $20-30k for deck core replacements on a boat this size and had it done in a matter of weeks. Those were pre pandemic prices that have likely increased…
@@TheCorsair yes exactly! I’m 100% with you. That’s why I wanted to show that the moisture meter read a lower value that some might Interpret as “ok” until you get the wood out of the way to properly read the core moisture. In the next video I’ll show you guys what’s going on with that core!
![The ESSENTIAL GUIDE to maintaining a classic teak deck [teak bung replacement]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_WteWHN8f-o/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome work Jon! Both in the workshop and the editing office.
Thanks for the shout out😸 taking off a teak deck in two pieces has only happened once in my career but it sure was satisfying. We took a wholesaw to it in the end and sent over 300 custom teak coasters to some of our patreons:) i was pretty happy with that creative souvenir to continue its life after 45 years of being our decks. I would guess that the stuff you were wondering about in your bulwarks is some kind of polyester resin.
Cheers,
Aladino
OOOH! What a crazy cool coaster idea! I would totally be down for Antidote coasters, Jon.
Thanks Aladino. I didn’t catch the update I guess about your decks. That’s a great idea. It’s actually something I was thinking about 🤦♂️. Haha. I will have to rebuild the panels though if I want to make anything like that because mine came apart mostly in individual strips.
Great minds think alike maybe 🤔.
Thanks again for checking out my project. It’s so appreciated!! 👍
I second Aladino's praise. Really great job in the shed and in the editing suite. Great work all around!! 👏👏
@YachtHunters Hi! Thanks for checking out the channel! I’m a big fan. A few years ago you guys did a walkthrough of a really nice Liberty 49 so Antidote is like the little cousin to that boat.
@@livingforsail and not so little!! That was a cool boat and much like yours, had a sweet fantail. Lots of beautiful work coming out of Taiwan... yours in no exception :)
Impressive project, Jon! All the best, Sheryl and Paul
Hi guys. Thanks for checking in! I’ve been following your boat build also. Very cool build going on there. Excited to see what’s next for you two with that. 🙏👍
labor of love.
Indeed! 🙏
That Robert Goulet shout-out really spoke to me. Long love Will Ferrell!
Haha. you win…. You always do.
Nah, give up on the teak, it's too far gone and would be a OMG maintenance hog. I wonder if you could use Trex wood composite boards? I've never heard if salt water would make toast of them.... All in all, I think you are doing a FANTASTIC job on your videos John. Lots of cool info and graphics. You have great delivery with just the right amount of humor, not over doing it and being cringeworthy. I really hope people discover you!!!
Thanks Dave. I think we are in agreement on those decks... I will look into some options in the future videos. I appreciate your continued support and encouragement. THANKS!!
That bred point drill is a great idea!!!
It worked like a charm! Thanks for watching!
That's awesome of Jim and Marty giving you that teak! spare decking so you can do some repairs.
It was so great to meet them. I’m very thankful for the extra teak! 👍
Love the shout out to Magic Carpet -- Dini is magic, that's all I can say, there's no may anything other than pure magic removed that deck! But I also think theirs was in significantly better condition than yours, and maybe that made the sailing gods smile upon their endeavors.
The Magic Carpet channel is so inspiring to me and the work they are doing with the boat and their videos is top notch!
@@livingforsail Right?! So inspiring!
Wow, Nice work. That made my lower back and knees hurt just watching it. Thats a nice score on the original teak. Great video!
That thick black foam pad is amazing! I should put that a link to that in the description! It has honestly saved my knees. WAY better than wearing knee pads. Thanks for the input!! Cheers
@@livingforsail I can imagine. I have a couple of small cheap pads like that from walmart for use in my boat. Lifesavers!
I’ve got Eric the eagle on my team. I’ve had to talk to him a few times - his work is exemplary for the first few hours then he starts letting the team down badly. Birds start walking close by and he does exactly nothing about it!
On a more serious note.. I’m a convert to Robertson head screws when it comes to boat building. They don’t cam out like Phillips, and the bit won’t slide sideways like slot headed screws. They make a great combo with impact drivers, and enable driving straight into solid hardwood with no contest, though care needs to be taken - bronze into oak or similar can shear off under load. They're fast and efficient. Keep up the good work.
Hi Robin, good tip there too. For those reading that have no idea what a “Robertson” is, they are the square bits. I like them too. Another plus is that they will “stick” to the driver so you can install one handed. Something that Phillips and star drives don’t do well.
I think they are a Canadian design… like me. 😂🇨🇦
Oh man that was some work! Good job buddy! Now you gotta do a re deck with fiberglass and core. Man that’s gnarly lol! Do it! Let’s go!
Yep. We will probably be peeking inside the squishy deck on the next video. Glad to have you along for the adventure!
one word Diresta....he is great also...you are doing exceptional programming/editing.
Thank you!! I had actually not heard of Jimmy Diresta (assuming that’s what you mean). I appreciate the comparison. That’s high praise. 🙏.
Love your content and I'm very pleased to see you working on it with your father. Nothing beats that feeling.
Thank you! 🙏
Yeah my father enjoys working on the project when he can. He’s recently retired from the construction industry so even if he can’t be here to help he gets to see some of his old tools pushing the project forward 👍🙌
Great video. Nice smooth editing. Looked like you and the owl were having a hoot. Great idea to keep gulls etc away, but you could end up with 200 owls!! 👍⚓️🇬🇧😎
Thank you! 🙏. I appreciate the feedback. I hope we can keep it to just one owl. 😂
John, I liked this channel after the first episode. I like that boat. I looked at one during my search in the late '80s/ and the '90s. It was just out of my price range as a military retiree. The only reason I was able to afford the Kalik 44 I got instead was that the teak decks were unseviceable also. But they were uniquely applied. In casting the deck, they (Vennekins/Belgium/1983) put ⅝" plywood in the mold first and then sprayed the gelcoat and applied the glass layers over that. When the hull and deck were later joined they then applied the teak onto the plywood with 5200 and little SS finishing nails. There were no screws at all in the wood or through the deck. It was actually a better idea. However the boat was owned by a pair of lawyers who didn't sail much so put the boat into charter. They did nothing to maintain it at all. When the teak wore down like your's has, The black seam sealer shrunk and rain water got under the teak and into the plywood. It, too, was not salvageable. I had to do what you are doing, only in Chicago. My plastic covered ¾"PVC support arches on 24" centers collapsed 3 times under the snow loads! But I did get it all off also. I saved all but a few of my teak deck planks in the hopes of using it again in an even better plan for fastening it down.
So I'm anxiously awaiting to see how you handle these same problems! I am enjoying your subtle sense of humor. I will take note of how long you can maintain that.
Hi John, thank you for your support! 🙏. Good luck with your project also!
thanks for the video. you've got some nice tools. good progress!
Thanks for your interest in my work. You have to have the right tools for the job!
I’m hooked John, can’t wait to see more videos!
Haha! Glad to have you along for the ride Cody!
Great work Jon, heart breaking seeing teak looking so worn out, but 34 yrs, we all wear out, enjoying all your updates, and what a beautiful boat! Good luck from the UK
Thank you. It is sad indeed. I love the teak too but the old method of laying them down with thousands of screws is just not very practical in the long run… Thanks for watching! Glad to have you with us!
Great video. Really fun. Looking forward to the next one.
Thanks Ted! See you there!
Another method to access the deck screws is to use a plug cutter. The designed purpose of the tool is to make teak or other wood plugs. But if you use a cutter the size of your deck plug, the plug cutter's outside diameter will be just a bit bigger. Center it over the plug, and slowly cut down. The wood around the screw will come out when you withdraw the cutter. Thereby exposing the screw. An added benefit is if the screw head is deformed and won't accept a bit, often you can get a grip on the sides of the screw and simply unscrew it. In this case you didn't want to save the wood, but if you did, I've found that the outside dimeter of the plug cutter is just right for the next size bigger plug. Not always but often.
You are doing an amazing job. Stay the course.
Thanks. That is a good tip. I appreciate your input and for watching the work I’m putting out. Glad to have you along for the adventure!
You are talking to a fellow wood hoarder. We also have a similar project down our road. I would prefer to keep the teak as long as possible tho. thanks for the video
You’re in good company here 👍. Good luck with your project. 🙌
That original sail track removal brings back nightmares. Had to do that on my 1984 458 when it was about 20 years along. The slot screws had raised up due to salt and the cars no longer ran. Was a multi-week job to get them out. Replaced them with phillips.
Yeah, I think when yours was built they were using mild steel inside the bulwarks. I’m PRETTY sure that mine are stainless, but still a pain… like you, ditching the flat heads in this application! 🙌
Some really cool stuff, John. Teak is nice, but labour intensive considering the abrasive nature of the salt and sea. I'd remove the teak for good, sand the deck back and epoxy paint them, then apply kiwi grip after. Keep at it Amigo
Thanks Andrew, I appreciate the input. I think that sounds like a good plan too! 👍 cheers.
@@livingforsail my Pleasure John ,your boat will be beautiful after mate.
Looking forward to following your channel. We are also restoring a 36 year old boat, a Celestial 44 ketch.
Thank you for following along with us! I will look into the celestial 44. Good luck with your refit also! Cheers.
Guessing there was atleast 5k screws on the deck... you definitely did it the cleanest way I've seen. Most people break the teak and screws resulting in alot more work
It was under 5k but still a BUNCH of them. In my situation this seemed to be the best way. Cheers!
New favorite channel!
Hey, THANK YOU!! 🙏 knowing that people are enjoying the extra effort to make these videos keeps me motivated. Much appreciated.
Wowldo is the man!
Glazier’s tool! This would have come in handy when I was removing baseboards. I wonder what my wife thinks about TH-cam videos that show me cool stuff to buy and cause me to spend money. Haha. Kidding of course. Buying tools is always cheaper than paying a professional to do the work. Unless of course this unprofessional has to do it more than once😅
I am somehow always able to justify spending money on tools. This current project presents a lot more opportunities for that 😜.
The glaziers bar is great for baseboards also 👍
A impact driver.. the one you hit with a hammer works great for screws .. also marvels mystery oil does amazing things to rusty hardware and rusty metal including getting rust stains from chrome or stainless steel
The hammer type driver is what bent one of those bits up… 😳
Good episode John 👍 Professor Owl could use a bit more of a salty sailors name though ? and if some genius could fit a small electric motor
inside his body to turn his head left or right , it could be hilarious to catch un-supecting guests off guard to see if they jump 😹😸😺
Yeah. I like Wowldo because it is hard to spell and difficult to pronounce. As I said earlier: “There has to be a harder way!?” 😂 It’s also confusing until you realize I was raised in the 80’s and 90’s when “where’s Waldo” books ruled the playgrounds. I like the animatronic idea. Haha
I must admit I used to love looking after Teak on deck. hated Varnish though, as to me, just blocked the ability to feed the Teak, though the finished look was different. tbh that's now over as it was such a struggle due to disability, my next boat will have white nonslip on Ca in top and side decks and aft Cockpit sole, the rest synthetic Teak, which will help reduce heat absorption below, as I'll mostly be in the Tropics. There's a very nice "Soft" ish non slip made in the USA, which is much kinder to bare feet and knees, I hope to have done for me, if I can remember its name. Nice Woodwork below will keep me happy, ut with No Plywood involved in any of the structure, as having built a boat with expensive best quality hardwood Marine Ply, I Never Again want that stuff Anywhere on a Boat, not even as embedded pieces to fix things onto. Best Wishes for what you do on Deck there, I hope it all turns out as good as you would like it to. Bob in Wales. 👍⛵️✨️✨️✨️
Hi Bob. I agree that the teak is wonderful but with its own set of challenges. If you recall the name of the synthetic teak that you are considering, please do let me know. I wish you the best with your future improvements to your boat. Cheers! 👍🙌
@@livingforsail In Testing of the top three synthetic Teaks by Yachting News, Flexiteek came top, and to me, in addition to it being the Lightest, important for keeping the above waterline weight down, they have a patented design at the bottom glued side, to help eliminate bubbles in the glue, and it was the best for dissipation of heat. seems at least as hard wearing as the others, plus has the benefit of a transferable 10 year guarantee, plus of the three, was the most natural and realistic looking. As I'll have such a small amount of it on my next boat, I'll go with whatever the Boatbuilder Recommends, as it'll be mostly coveted by the Seat Cushions anyway. Hopefully that helps. Best Wishes and Fair Winds. Bob in Wales. 👍⛵️✨️✨️✨️
@@brownnoise357 Thank you Bob!
Hey good for you ! We are doing up an old pan oceanic 46 just did all the core and pulled up decks, we will also be doing an inside refilt - yours looks good inside!
Hi Fiona. Thanks!! 🙏. The decks here will need some work for sure. I’ll show more about that in the next video. It sounds like you can empathize with my impending knee pain 😂
Looks great. Thinking it might be nice to save the cockpit and locker covers and nurse those along but definitely would let the teak deck go. Guessing you will re core the wet spots, countersink and fill the holes and add a layer of finishing cloth before the nonskid.
I agree that some of the teak I lay pads are nice and I will try to keep and/or restore.
We will have to wait and see how the core looks before deciding to glass over or dig in for replacement.
Thanks for watching along with us!!
Hopefully you will take the time to polish the cleats and any other exterior bronze.. cover it with 4k clear coat and it will look killer for years
Thanks! Tell me more about the 4k clear?
@livingforsail 4k clear coat is UV resistant and is what you can use on polished metal or if you redo your headlights.. I learned how to polish metal with a high speed grinder as a teenager to make cash in the warm months here in the midwest. I have polished up all the aluminum on a buddies older Harley sportster and he isn't the kind to go around once in awhile and go over it by hand so I sprayed it down with 4k clear coat and that was several years ago.. it comes in a rattle can.. your bronze pieces would look amazing polished up.. atleast in my opinion.. I have that old school taste.. beautiful wood that shines and if it's metal it has to shine..
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
5200, “The Devil’s Toothpaste”
Amen. Haha!! 😂🙌
Another great episode. How much time do you think you have in removing the teak deck? Thanks for sharing. keep safety first.
Thanks! It will probably be the single largest part of this project. Hard to say for sure… thanks for the feedback! 🙏👍
“this is a yellow one” lol
Haha. I have a lot of yellow tools…
9:18 Everybody has that piece of wood in their garage...
Haha. Right?! Can I put you in touch with my wife to help back me up on that?! 😂🙌
I'm literally down to exactly one piece after helping other people out with their wood needs.
It's gunna grow again, isn't it?
@@estoops1592 it won’t take long. You’ll have it all back soon!🤣🙌
Could have tried a left threaded drill bit for the bungs??
Yeah, that would probably work too. 👍🙌
About the screws removal from the wood, here is a link to a video of an old shipwright with great knowledge.
1.th-cam.com/video/tb-VXCGVq2Y/w-d-xo.html
2.th-cam.com/video/l0AdZPcw8Pw/w-d-xo.html
Also there is another video, couldn't find it, where he presents why not to use cross head screws, only flathead screws, but I'm sure you already figured that out.
PS. I know it's a bit late, but I hope you find it useful in the future, if not this tip, then maybe you find another one.
Thank you for the input! I watched the videos. Great advice from a man that knows his stuff!! I’d never seen his work before. Thanks for sharing.
I think it was Aladino from magic carpet that recommended staying with flat heads because it’s easy to clean the heads out before removal.
Cheers.
The older Taiwanese trawlers all came with teak decks, and they leaked. I wonder if you couldn't just sand the teak smooth, then cover with epoxy and cloth, go right over the old teak. Would this leak? Sure save a lot of work.
Unfortunately the problem is that the way the teak was installed allows water to damage the deck core (usually wood) and so that would just be a bandaid fix… not really my style.
Thanks for watching. 🙏🙌👍
I'm looking at an '88 boat with teak decks. Very high end builder and the claim is that all the screw holes are sealed such that no water can penetrate. I'm very skeptical. Hopefully the price you paid reflects the extent of the refit.
The price was fair-ish. I would have loved to pay less but even at $0 you would have to want to do this kind of project for it to make any sense. There is no “money saving” happening here! 🤷♂️.
I am skeptical of any teak deck installation that uses screws and claims to be leak free. I would venture to say it’s not possible…
@livingforsail I'm 4 years into an unplanned refit on a "free" Tartan 37. I use the boat extensively but I'm basically always working on it. Free was too expensive but I've learned a lot in the process. Now I'm faced with a major deck restoration project with no boat shed which is why I'm considering other boats. I respect people like you who take on a massive project knowing they won't sail for years but I just can't do it myself. I need to sail my boat and in doing so I figure out very quickly what issues need to be resolved and what I like vs not like. In my view, no restoration is really complete until the boat is thoroughly tested. I'm not getting any younger either so sailing now is really important. Takes the sting out of all the work and expenses.
@@jessefalsone1247 yeah, I laugh when people ask “when will it be done” 🤣
I think you’re wise to take the approach you do. We have access to a nice 30’ coastal boat to keep the itch at bay and this is a good season of life for me to take on this project. It’s not for everyone… I have met people that paid between $20-30k for deck core replacements on a boat this size and had it done in a matter of weeks. Those were pre pandemic prices that have likely increased…
Do you think I should have tried to save the decks???
I am sure they should be saved. I don't think they are good for decks any longer but can be used for a million other projects.
@@martyb3783 I have a few ideas... I'll keep you all posted.
Simply - no the wood was too far gone 😿
No way! The core is shot. Leaving the decks in place would have only covered up a serious issue.
@@TheCorsair yes exactly! I’m 100% with you. That’s why I wanted to show that the moisture meter read a lower value that some might Interpret as “ok” until you get the wood out of the way to properly read the core moisture.
In the next video I’ll show you guys what’s going on with that core!
Waldo says... if it doesn't release ... get a bigger hammer
I am going to need a bigger hammer… 😳
I dont think the teak wore out like that because of age/use/normal wear. It probably was sanded a couple of times during its life.
I imagine that you are correct about that. Cheers. 👍🙌
Pressure washing takes them down also.
@@c.a.mcneil7599 yes, definitely. I don’t know the history on the boat but I imagine that’s happened once or twice.
Is dit een uit de hand gelopen hobby?
Haha. Nee.