Excellent video! That wasn't a template you were using, that was CAD: "cardboard aided design". Welcome to the 21st. century! Can't wait to see the finished firewall.
@Fitzee's Fabrications : I am pretty sure the brake pedal assembly you are using came from something with power brakes. It is pretty common to have 4:1 ratio with power brakes. The issue I see is that at 4:1 (NON POWER), you are going to be standing on the brakes with both feet!!!!! With NON-POWER brakes, it is pretty common to have a 5:1 ratio. That was about what you had with your drilled hole in the pedal arm. THAT is where you need to go back to.. NO DOUBT!!! To keep from hitting the firewall, simply change the long curve of the brake pedal arm to a more flat bar. It is that long curve that causes the issue. Not the pedal itself. Just watch your video with it upside down in the vise with the flat bar showing what the firewall would look like.. Then take any piece of flat stock or ruler and with the pedal depressed, hold the flat up to it and you'll see exactly what I mean... A lot is happening at top speed and being able to control the car easily is everything.....
Thank You Fitzee for showing the whole process and how to over come problems!👍 Your channel is the biggest reason I’m patching up my rusty old VW with my own two hands. So thank you for the inspiration and the information😎🙌
"Yeah, that's it. The world has ended. Fitzee has used a template." I laughed so hard at that line. 😂 Great video. I really like that steering column closeout panel.
Fitzee, your comment that mounting the braking assembly was one of your most challenging tasks to date on the build provides me and I am sure others with confidence. I have spent hours pondering about the brake/clutch/gas pedal design on my build. So much is going on......ratios, stroke, bore diameter, pedal spacing, height difference between gas and brake pedal, firewall strengthen, ergonomics drivers foot angle to brake pedal just to name a few. Thank you for sharing with us!
Dang Fitzee I’m not sure what I’d have done without your videos showing what’s possible with minimal tools. I’m fabricating a complete trunk drop now because the ones they sell as reproductions are missing three flanges and the end by the wheel well is completely different than the original. I wouldn’t even have considered it before watching your videos. You’ve even convinced me to start my own TH-cam site to show that even an amateur can do it with a little patience. Thanks for showing us all this stuff.
I've watched every Crusty video and this is my first comment. A "W" shaped bead with curve instead of "^" above the transmission tunnel would look good add rigidity.
The 4:1 ratio will be a real leg workout to stop. Research and wrap your brain around what it takes to get something close to 7:1 because it will give you a normal pedal pressure and sufficient pressure to stop the car. I changed a 1949 Ford to 1967 corvette manual brake master cylinder with 4 wheel disc brakes. With 7:1 ratio pedal it was very good. As I remember it my hole for the master cylinder Clovis was closer to the pivot not further away. Look it up for yourself and be glad you did.
More fantastic custom fabrications from thin air. The unique nature of builds like yours, where you have to make it up as you go along means that 'mistakes' are inevitable, it is amazing that you make so few and so instructive for us when you show them. The comment about having a one foot square workbench and the rest is storage was very funny and so true. Great video Tony, thank you.
Great video Tony. I’ve done non-stock brake and hydraulic clutch pedals before too. What I did is measure the total stroke of the master cylinder, then the maximum travel of the pedal. One divided by the other gives the required ratio. Then drill the hole for the pushrod that fraction of way from the pivot down, and it’ll all work out perfectly with no guesswork. 👍
This has been a great build-along/show as you go on this whole project Fitzee. Having watched this from the beginning, it’s come along way. Getting your point of view from a thought process to execution of ideas is the greatest part of it. Especially when you interact with your subscribers when they have questions along the way. I want to wish you and yours a very prosperous 2024 in both health and happiness!
That was very interesting to watch and see how you worked it out. I think you need a little play in the pedal so the fluid can expand and contract through the small orifice in the master. If the pedal is tight, then it can cause the brakes to stick especially when it gets warm. 1/8 or so should do it. The build is top notch for the assembly.
I worked in the layout department of the sheet metal shop in a naval shipyard for a number of years. Geometry can really make your eyes bug out sometimes. Nice work Fitzee!
Mechanical advantage. The smaller the diameter of the master cylinder piston and the shorter the distance from the pivot point, the greater the pressure on the brakes. The disadvantage can be in the longer distance that the pedal moves. No doubt you've taken this into account.
Since you've moved the master cylinder location, now your pedal travel is shorter, but the pressure on the brakes is less, so you'll have to press the brake pedal harder. Hopefully it won't be too hard to stop the car. If it's a problem, you can always more it back again.
What mistake?? Hey Tony, just like a doctor. Bury the mistakes! I've got two old trucks converted to disc brakes and dual master cylinders. Neither are power assisted. I don't have any issues stopping but my wife has trouble with the effort required. The smaller master cylinder bore will definitely generate more braking pressure but by moving the hole away from the pivot you're also reducing mechanical advantage. I'm like you in that I have to see it to fully understand. My 64 F100 has Impala calipers over 79 F100 rotors and with the standard drums in the rear brakes very well and even without an equalizer.? Brakes are a little scary because we do need them from time to time!😊 Thanks for the videos and the education!
Now the details and controls are underway, takes a bit of measuring, rechecking, measuring again and rechecking again. Still end up redoing it later on in spite of those efforts sometimes. But it will be cool to see it come together!
I think that looks way better than a plain flat firewall. And I would paint them black so they stand out against the white color. I think you had said you were going to paint crusty
Thanks Tony !! great show...Now in my 70's complexity causes my mind to slow or shut down😂 but your explanations clear and simple help to sooth the confusion😁
LoL at your "steampunk firewall" 🤖 When you build a new rod, do it with an adjustable for length clevis pin like the OG Toyota one. Adjustable length, that's the ticket sir! All my old VW brake pushrods were adjustable for length. It's the little details, that take up all the time. As always, Nice Work Tony. Glad to be following along. Blair
Really enjoying this build. You might consider cutting a semi circle around the transmission bolts and shaping a cone like extension towards the back. It will give more strength to the fire wall.
That all looks great. 👍🏼The only thing I would do different is I would not weld all that brake assembly solid. To me sometimes having stuff serviceable is the better option, especially when they have moving parts. I suppose the factory felt that way as well since that assembly was unbolted from a truck or car. 🤷♂ Either way the car is coming along nicely.
.... The angle of the dangle is proportional to the heat of the bead. and the gutting and the cutting and the hacking and the tacking determines the fit of the slit and the deal with the steel ...... I think I just wrote a country song for body men.
It appears that the master cylinder resorvoir is different than the one that you began the video with. Did you change the reservoir, or the complete master cylinder. And why did you make that decision. Loved your tips and enjoyed watching you work.
Just one of the pitfalls of fabrication. Just when you think you got it you have to move something. I like you have to actually "see" something to understanding it sometimes. Really like that bracket you made for the steering column. I won't tell anybody about that extra hole if you don't...
Great stuff Fitzee- Just wondering why you did not consider cutting the master cylinder hole and bolt holes out and welding in that panel again with 1" of meat below so that flip it 180 and weld it back in and presto the same holes one inch lower. I:o I becomes I o:I Anywho all good in the end - Did you see Karl from make it Kustoms new little air chisel Form bender - for putting profile into steel sheet. I reckon that would put beads in 16 gage no Problem or just a rounded chizel bit in a ply or MDF bead form. Love your stuff M8 Happy New year from Aus.
I thought about welding it up but wanted to add something to firewall anyway to get rid of the plain look. That's a cool tool he made. Sould work good if you wanted a double bead belt line.
I"m like Tony, I'm a visual person as well, I was a welder fitter as a tradesman and I pick up on things must faster visually then I do with just math and geometry and such. So I understand where your coming from bigtime. Cheers but Car is looking good.
It goes without saying and of course you would have thought of this, but the rod for the master cylinder needs to be adjustable to that you can have about 1/8" play before the pedal starts pushing the piston. Years back, we had a master cylinder replaced in one of our cars under warranty and the apprentice didn't adjust the rod correctly. After a few presses of the brake pedal, the car would no longer move and had to be trucked back to the shop so the rod could be adjusted. The apprentice learned a valuable lesson there.
Great video! Question - why do you use a cut off wheel and not an electric shear for cutting your rough panel shapes? Seems like an electric shear would be quicker and not create near the mess. Thanks!
Another step towards completion. Sometimes you just have to work things out as you go. Sometimes I'll be planning to do something and my wife will ask me how I'm going to do it and I say I don't know yet, I'll work it out as I go.
Another great video!👌👌👌 Looking forward to the next one! Just out of curiosity and I know this is going to be a drag car, but do you think you will have enough braking force with a 4:1 ratio without servo assist?
Just wondering, when you have a long term project and so much freshly sanded/ground metal, after you finish, say, a fender or the bottom of a door, do you treat the metal to prevent flash-rust forming while you work on the rest of the car?
Are you concerned about that flat firewall drumming or vibrating because it's a relatively big flat panel? A couple of beads or something would help with that. I've usually delt with 4 cylinder cars and I think vibrations and noise is more of an issue with them than v8s perhaps?
Tony :] question on your technique of MIG welding heavier plates of metal, can't tell if you're moving the MIG handle in a C pattern, it almost looks like a Circular pattern... I'm having an issue getting nicer looking welds on heavier gauge plates, Kind Regards:]
This episode is for all the boys who told Mrs Smith that they were never going to need to use Geometry! They were going to build hot rods! 😂😂 Now Mrs Smith probably wasn't teaching it the way you needed to learn it, but that's a different discussion.
I see you didn't want to put the brake system on the floor attached to the frame, leaves more room in the engine bay... My race car is in the floor in front of the seat...
this is the problem most fellers think there working with to much and are in fact not reaching the fire...... wall . lm not going their with the butchered holes . barhaha Car looking great though
Lots of work. All looks great Tony.
Can't wait till crusty is finished to see how it turns out.
Well I was standing up when you showed us you used a template. I ended up falling over spilling my coffee and putting my back out.😉
Hahaha
Excellent video! That wasn't a template you were using, that was CAD: "cardboard aided design". Welcome to the 21st. century! Can't wait to see the finished firewall.
@Fitzee's Fabrications : I am pretty sure the brake pedal assembly you are using came from something with power brakes. It is pretty common to have 4:1 ratio with power brakes. The issue I see is that at 4:1 (NON POWER), you are going to be standing on the brakes with both feet!!!!! With NON-POWER brakes, it is pretty common to have a 5:1 ratio. That was about what you had with your drilled hole in the pedal arm. THAT is where you need to go back to.. NO DOUBT!!! To keep from hitting the firewall, simply change the long curve of the brake pedal arm to a more flat bar. It is that long curve that causes the issue. Not the pedal itself. Just watch your video with it upside down in the vise with the flat bar showing what the firewall would look like.. Then take any piece of flat stock or ruler and with the pedal depressed, hold the flat up to it and you'll see exactly what I mean... A lot is happening at top speed and being able to control the car easily is everything.....
Thanks for the update Tony. Always nice to see your problem solving and craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing your skills with us.👍👍❤
Thank You Fitzee for showing the whole process and how to over come problems!👍
Your channel is the biggest reason I’m patching up my rusty old VW with my own two hands. So thank you for the inspiration and the information😎🙌
You did a great job recessing the stearing collum part. That hole you said was a mistake was an early option in the engineering world.
"Yeah, that's it. The world has ended. Fitzee has used a template."
I laughed so hard at that line. 😂
Great video. I really like that steering column closeout panel.
You are like myself. Explain a million ways I'm still lost. Nothing like hands on for me.
love how every thing is coming along been here since the beginning it's a lot of work be worth it when your going down the track
Happy. New Year
Fitzee, your comment that mounting the braking assembly was one of your most challenging tasks to date on the build provides me and I am sure others with confidence. I have spent hours pondering about the brake/clutch/gas pedal design on my build. So much is going on......ratios, stroke, bore diameter, pedal spacing, height difference between gas and brake pedal, firewall strengthen, ergonomics drivers foot angle to brake pedal just to name a few. Thank you for sharing with us!
Dang Fitzee I’m not sure what I’d have done without your videos showing what’s possible with minimal tools. I’m fabricating a complete trunk drop now because the ones they sell as reproductions are missing three flanges and the end by the wheel well is completely different than the original. I wouldn’t even have considered it before watching your videos. You’ve even convinced me to start my own TH-cam site to show that even an amateur can do it with a little patience. Thanks for showing us all this stuff.
I've watched every Crusty video and this is my first comment. A "W" shaped bead with curve instead of "^" above the transmission tunnel would look good add rigidity.
The 4:1 ratio will be a real leg workout to stop. Research and wrap your brain around what it takes to get something close to 7:1 because it will give you a normal pedal pressure and sufficient pressure to stop the car. I changed a 1949 Ford to 1967 corvette manual brake master cylinder with 4 wheel disc brakes. With 7:1 ratio pedal it was very good. As I remember it my hole for the master cylinder Clovis was closer to the pivot not further away. Look it up for yourself and be glad you did.
Think leverage that is what the pedal ratio is.
That steering shaft plate is awesome❤
Thanks Tony, nice progress on the firewall. Your having snow out there, Peanut also had to check it out.
Cheers 👍💪✌
More fantastic custom fabrications from thin air. The unique nature of builds like yours, where you have to make it up as you go along means that 'mistakes' are inevitable, it is amazing that you make so few and so instructive for us when you show them. The comment about having a one foot square workbench and the rest is storage was very funny and so true. Great video Tony, thank you.
Great video Tony. I’ve done non-stock brake and hydraulic clutch pedals before too. What I did is measure the total stroke of the master cylinder, then the maximum travel of the pedal. One divided by the other gives the required ratio. Then drill the hole for the pushrod that fraction of way from the pivot down, and it’ll all work out perfectly with no guesswork. 👍
awesome job and recovery from the first attempt in the build. Thank you for sharing your mist steps in the processes.
This has been a great build-along/show as you go on this whole project Fitzee. Having watched this from the beginning, it’s come along way. Getting your point of view from a thought process to execution of ideas is the greatest part of it. Especially when you interact with your subscribers when they have questions along the way. I want to wish you and yours a very prosperous 2024 in both health and happiness!
Wow thats alot of work tony but you got it in the past now great job
That was very interesting to watch and see how you worked it out. I think you need a little play in the pedal so the fluid can expand and contract through the small orifice in the master. If the pedal is tight, then it can cause the brakes to stick especially when it gets warm. 1/8 or so should do it. The build is top notch for the assembly.
I worked in the layout department of the sheet metal shop in a naval shipyard for a number of years. Geometry can really make your eyes bug out sometimes. Nice work Fitzee!
Mechanical advantage. The smaller the diameter of the master cylinder piston and the shorter the distance from the pivot point, the greater the pressure on the brakes. The disadvantage can be in the longer distance that the pedal moves. No doubt you've taken this into account.
Since you've moved the master cylinder location, now your pedal travel is shorter, but the pressure on the brakes is less, so you'll have to press the brake pedal harder. Hopefully it won't be too hard to stop the car. If it's a problem, you can always more it back again.
Yes bore size plays a factor in that as well.
What mistake?? Hey Tony, just like a doctor. Bury the mistakes! I've got two old trucks converted to disc brakes and dual master cylinders. Neither are power assisted. I don't have any issues stopping but my wife has trouble with the effort required. The smaller master cylinder bore will definitely generate more braking pressure but by moving the hole away from the pivot you're also reducing mechanical advantage. I'm like you in that I have to see it to fully understand. My 64 F100 has Impala calipers over 79 F100 rotors and with the standard drums in the rear brakes very well and even without an equalizer.? Brakes are a little scary because we do need them from time to time!😊 Thanks for the videos and the education!
A very little big job!! You make it look easy Tony, good to see you back, Joe
Now the details and controls are underway, takes a bit of measuring, rechecking, measuring again and rechecking again. Still end up redoing it later on in spite of those efforts sometimes. But it will be cool to see it come together!
Moving the master cylinder down/ cut rectangle out one inch longer on the bottom then flip and butt weld in, holes lowered 👍
Looks great sir Tony well done thank you for sharing
I think that looks way better than a plain flat firewall. And I would paint them black so they stand out against the white color. I think you had said you were going to paint crusty
Love your work Tony
Thanks Tony !! great show...Now in my 70's complexity causes my mind to slow or shut down😂 but your explanations clear and simple help to sooth the confusion😁
LoL at your "steampunk firewall" 🤖 When you build a new rod, do it with an adjustable for length clevis pin like the OG Toyota one. Adjustable length, that's the ticket sir! All my old VW brake pushrods were adjustable for length. It's the little details, that take up all the time.
As always, Nice Work Tony. Glad to be following along. Blair
I’m exactly the same Tony the figures mean nothing to me until I see it in front of me I’ve always been the same. Nice job 👍
Thanks for a lot of good information for a project I am working on
Great tips Fitzee 👍 nice job
Really enjoying this build. You might consider cutting a semi circle around the transmission bolts and shaping a cone like extension towards the back. It will give more strength to the fire wall.
I myself am visual and this explains it clearly! Thanks
That all looks great. 👍🏼The only thing I would do different is I would not weld all that brake assembly solid. To me sometimes having stuff serviceable is the better option, especially when they have moving parts. I suppose the factory felt that way as well since that assembly was unbolted from a truck or car. 🤷♂ Either way the car is coming along nicely.
Lots of figuring great job like the look
Bom trabalho parabéns 😮😮 Mir de bom pra você 🎉🎉 feliz ano novo 🎉
As always, The tips are good! Thanks!!
.... The angle of the dangle is proportional to the heat of the bead. and the gutting and the cutting and the hacking and the tacking determines the fit of the slit and the deal with the steel ...... I think I just wrote a country song for body men.
Looks great wow , nice work
Incredible job!!!!
Nice job again tony. Gonna be a little beasty.
Lots of good tips!
Good Work sir !!!
Awesome tony another great job will help me in my build of a 28 model a building a fire wall
Yes! I was thinking right away, why are you moving the hole up not down, it’ll give you a shorter throw the other way!! 👍
that was a nice step forward Tony, maybe you should make a template of the whole pedal assy for future builds or someone in need👍🏼
Wish I had a tenth of your skills.
Thank you Fitzee!!
Thank you.
It appears that the master cylinder resorvoir is different than the one that you began the video with. Did you change the reservoir, or the complete master cylinder. And why did you make that decision. Loved your tips and enjoyed watching you work.
Was wondering who notice that. Lol. I ordered two and I like the reservoir on the larger bore size MC. As both were same style I just swap them out.
Just one of the pitfalls of fabrication. Just when you think you got it you have to move something. I like you have to actually "see" something to understanding it sometimes. Really like that bracket you made for the steering column. I won't tell anybody about that extra hole if you don't...
Lots of interesting Info. Thanks Tony!
Great stuff Fitzee-
Just wondering why you did not consider cutting the master cylinder hole and bolt holes out and welding in that panel again with 1" of meat below so that flip it 180 and weld it back in and presto the same holes one inch lower.
I:o I becomes I o:I
Anywho all good in the end -
Did you see Karl from make it Kustoms new little air chisel Form bender - for putting profile into steel sheet.
I reckon that would put beads in 16 gage no Problem or just a rounded chizel bit in a ply or MDF bead form.
Love your stuff M8
Happy New year from Aus.
I thought about welding it up but wanted to add something to firewall anyway to get rid of the plain look.
That's a cool tool he made. Sould work good if you wanted a double bead belt line.
Great job as usual, keep going at it ! Would like to see you on the drag strip this summer. ( LOL)
Love it man, one step closer!!!!!❤
I"m like Tony, I'm a visual person as well, I was a welder fitter as a tradesman and I pick up on things must faster visually then I do with just math and geometry and such. So I understand where your coming from bigtime. Cheers but Car is looking good.
It goes without saying and of course you would have thought of this, but the rod for the master cylinder needs to be adjustable to that you can have about 1/8" play before the pedal starts pushing the piston. Years back, we had a master cylinder replaced in one of our cars under warranty and the apprentice didn't adjust the rod correctly. After a few presses of the brake pedal, the car would no longer move and had to be trucked back to the shop so the rod could be adjusted. The apprentice learned a valuable lesson there.
I come across that as well in the past
Great video! Question - why do you use a cut off wheel and not an electric shear for cutting your rough panel shapes? Seems like an electric shear would be quicker and not create near the mess. Thanks!
Don't have one and I am just use to the grinder.
Thanks.
In aviation, those extra panels would be called "doubler plates".
Very nice. Love ur logic
Another step towards completion. Sometimes you just have to work things out as you go. Sometimes I'll be planning to do something and my wife will ask me how I'm going to do it and I say I don't know yet, I'll work it out as I go.
Great Fab Fitzee 👍👍
Hi Tony. Happy New Year! Nice work on old Crusty. The way you tied the brackets to the roll cage should add a lot of strength to the firewall too.
Another great video!👌👌👌
Looking forward to the next one!
Just out of curiosity and I know this is going to be a drag car, but do you think you will have enough braking force with a 4:1 ratio without servo assist?
We will see. Anything More and the peddle will be too high or will pass threw the firewall.
@@fitzeesfabrications 👍🤞
Just wondering, when you have a long term project and so much freshly sanded/ground metal, after you finish, say, a fender or the bottom of a door, do you treat the metal to prevent flash-rust forming while you work on the rest of the car?
Are you concerned about that flat firewall drumming or vibrating because it's a relatively big flat panel? A couple of beads or something would help with that. I've usually delt with 4 cylinder cars and I think vibrations and noise is more of an issue with them than v8s perhaps?
He mentioned using the bead roller to put some beads on it, likely above the transmission tunnel.
Fitzee's Motor City - building a car one piece at a time.
LIKE THE WAY YOU EXPLAIN THINGS
Tony :]
question on your technique of MIG welding heavier plates of metal, can't tell if you're moving the MIG handle in a C pattern, it almost looks like a Circular pattern...
I'm having an issue getting nicer looking welds on heavier gauge plates, Kind Regards:]
Short wheel base for a drag car . That body would look good on your side x side
Lol. I like the minis on sxs frames
This episode is for all the boys who told Mrs Smith that they were never going to need to use Geometry! They were going to build hot rods! 😂😂
Now Mrs Smith probably wasn't teaching it the way you needed to learn it, but that's a different discussion.
Use studs on the engine block so you just need space for nuts on the bell housing.
How is the placement of the master in conjunction with the engine?
Let's of room
WHAT! A template? Im shakin my head. Lol 😅
Yukon Cornelius!😁👍
Tony,are you going to have any kind of heater in the car? Im thinking,probably not because racecar but just curious
Talked about in video. Plans for a small heater for those fall nights
I don't have the mathematical mind to figure out all the angles and bends. So...I'll watch and leave that up to you 😃.
Excellent
An education by a fabrication master/artist
Much easier welding than sheet metal, hey !
Fitz,how big is your air grinder is that 3 or 4 inch?
4 inch
What brand of metal hole cutters do u have and where did u buy them
Those are Milwaukee. Not sure where to get them. These were a gift from a customer
Awesome job Tony. Happy New Year Brother. To you and the Mrs. Hope your year is awesome and that Crusty comes to life . IT'S ALIIIIVVEEE LOL😎👍
the booster is necessary?
No. I used alot of standard brake setups over the years
Nice Fitzee!!!!
Thanks for the videos can you please tell me the part number to master cylinder
Clearly shown in the video.
Yes you can see the number on the box. Donr have it in front of me right now.
@@fitzeesfabrications Thank you I don't know how i missed that . Your a master of your profession
Can you add a “taco” to the firewall for the break peddle?
Don't need to now. Lol
Nice Work.
#STAYSAFE
#PHILLYPHILLY 🇺🇸
A Template!!!! What! Well the world didnt end but there definatly was a disturbance in the Force! LOL
I see you didn't want to put the brake system on the floor attached to the frame, leaves more room in the engine bay... My race car is in the floor in front of the seat...
Ya. I don't that in the past and just not what I wanted with this build
Why can't you use the existing holes you have for the Master Cylinder? You've already moved the Master Cylinder on the Brake pedal box.
It would raise up the peddle. Be too high then
this is the problem most fellers think there working with to much and are in fact not reaching the fire...... wall . lm not going their with the butchered holes . barhaha Car looking great though
I'm glad you made a mistake, that's less ill have to make😅