I used to work in the shipping container industry, this man is very correct in what he's saying. The containers and stacked on top of one another but ALL the weight is on the corner beams. When you put concrete or soil on the top or sides it could very well collapse in!
But, you could use it as a form for a concrete pour. First you could shore up the inside with 4 x 4s, then seal any holes, then coat the outer 6-sides with a rubber sealant, then place it upside down on a concrete slab, set rebar, set forms for minimum 30 inch thickness, then pour concrete. Let it set a week, then cut your entry point, and remove the shoring. It could be at grade or in a trench. If I did it at grade then I would set tires around it, fill in rocks and gravel, and pour concrete. Adding layers until I had a tornado-shelter. 20 inches concrete or 36 inches dirt minimum for nuclear fallout.
Hello Lamberto, first off as you know I am NOT a big fan of leaving the floor underneath you. That is so strong and you're not using it at all. get up top and walk on the roof and you will feel it flex that is only one eighth corrugated steel. If you're going to pour concrete on that extensive bracing must happen or you will have a cave in, concrete is very heavy, after it hardens it should be okay. Another problem I see is the wood. It holds moisture and when it is buried the air transfer is limited. you do not want to have mold in your shelter when you needed it. When you draw in moist air to a cool environment it sweats you will constantly have a problem with moisture and half to run the dehumidifiers to remove the moisture. That is why I limits porous material inside. As for sealing it I use the same paint as they use on bridges if you ever see construction companies sandblasting a bridge and repainting it that paint is very durable. when you paint it on the shelter and bury it it is now out of the elements as of dirt, Wind, salt, heat. so it will last underground for decades. If it should get a scratch the cor ten steel is out of the elements also. Cor ten steel last for a very long time it has anti-corrosion materials built into the steel. One more thing is the floor is not waterproof if you take out one of the floor screws you will have any open hole in the floor. So if you do not inverted and cover the floor with solid steel you will have to run a sump pump so you don't get moisture coming up through the floor. I hope this information has helped you let me know how it goes.
That's a great idea for a shelter. I'd probably put this mostly into a hill so 3 sides are covered by earth and weld some beams to reinforce the exposed entrance and weld a couple large throw bolts to lock it from the inside.
Here are a few questions: I dug the hole and cast a 2 foot re-inforced concrete floor. I placed the shipping container on there (normal side up) and secured the footing at the appropriate points. I boxed the exterior of the container with polystyrene (shapes cut to fit, 2 inches thick, between the metal container and with plywood on the exterior - for insulation purposes). Why should I not re-bar and encapsulate the entire structure with concrete (whilst curing, the container shell will obviously be held up by internal scaffolding to carry the weight). Once the concrete is cured after 2 weeks, it will be strong enough surely? Do I really need metal re-inforcement on the inside? Please advise....
Personally, rather than spend time & money on welding / reinforcing the container internally, I would put plenty of rebar in the concrete & lots of temporary props inside. Rebar closely spaced (say 6-8 inches) also helps control crack widths. In simple terms, the concrete will be more watertight.Don't have the concrete too wet,(you can always add plasticiser). Do use a poker vibrator.
I built a portcullis on the entrance of my shelter and used 10 50,000 btu propane torch heads to create my flame wall ,5 flush mounted electrically ignited torch heads let side of the door ,at full flame under 30lbs pressure the flame from each side makes a solid wall of flame ,a single 100 pound propane cylinder tested out at 21 minutes of full burn on all 10 torch heads .
I like the turning over the container but all that steel is quite expensive. I could swing the inside bracing but was thinking plywood floor inside and concrete on the outside on top. Also could I getaway with 2 brace walls in a 40' hi-cube and the 2x4 c channel on the sides?
There’s a shelter expert that says the real pressure is always at the bottom not the top when burying a shelter. Any update on whether this has held up?
Hey Mike! I have a simple question that I would like to ask you, I am in the process of making a complete concrete home underground, how thick should I make the walls and ceiling, and should I add rebar to the concrete as well?
+Aleksei Krasnov Alesnarovich Honestly, here is what I would do. Sit box in hole on reinforced concrete foundation with proper drainage. (2) run pipe on outside of box where you need it to go inside, such as for power going in. (3) put 4 inch insulation on outside of walls. (4) I would Build a 6 inch wide rebar grid around the insulation. Where the windows are doors are I would weld steel plate that goes out 1 foot, if none disregard this part. After you got your rebar grid, go out 1 foot and start laying flat rock, do this all the way up. (5) Pour concrete in between the insulation and rock wall. Let it cure for at least 3 days, if not a week. (6) Built up rock wall another foot all around, rock wall is now a foot over the height of the box. (7) Now lay a rebar grid on top of the box and you can do this with box in original position floor down, and pour a 3 of inches of concrete and let that cure 3 days. Put more rebar down and pour full the last 9 inches. Don't forget the entrance though, that needs to be sorted first if coming in from top, or you can do it from the side if you want and lay wall up to it. If on the side put a beam across the top to lay more rock on. Personally, I would come in from the door side and have the one side a rock wall with a door and small windows for natural light. But it would be hard to find that rock entrance side after good camo is done. So you would be burying the floor, ceiling, and 3 sides. On the exposed side I would probably lay rock out to 1.5 feet, and do everything like before, but now you got almost an impossible wall to get through. An NBC safe door and 1 inch steel plate that goes over those small windows would make it pretty safe. A porch overhang with a grill before you come to the safe door even better, just build out more rock wall, now you can grill out of rain and eyes of others. You would want the entrance way buried too, and now all they see is a rock wall with a entrance which you could make non normal so it just looks like a hole in rock, and windows that are just spaces in the rock outer wall. Now plant bamboo or whatever out fron't and you can make yourself a little small yard and hide the whole thing in there. They see bomboo grove and that's it. If they find the yard inside then they see the wall, but not till then. Would be hard to even spot from above as bamboo trees would hide it, and hide the top real good too after you plant them on top.
Hey Mike! Am I able to purchase the details form you on what thickness of steel, welds/ where they should be positioned? I have an engineer willing to vet the structural integrity drawings provided for our 20’ container before we bury it for peace of mind that it’ll hold up under earth!
Hi, I am in the process of burying a container right now. I left it with the floor down and I will frame it with wood inside just like a house. I was thinking of adding a 4" concrete slab on top with lots of rebar . Also I used 30 gallons of Henry waterproofer sealer on the all the sides and top nothing under (too hard to lift) I was thinking that the wood studs and rafters would add enough support (I won't be adding lots of dirt on the roof just a slab. I will cover the whole thing with 6 mil poly sheeting over the Henry sealer for extra protection. I would like to know how you will waterproof your outer walls Thanks
Since there designed to be stacked due to the strength being on the outside edges, would that work underground, mean you don't put dirt on the roof of the containers you place other containers on top of it, and surround them with a water Barrier to prevent rusting and back fill around say 3 or more containers stacked underground. Use the strength of the containers rather than having to reinforce them. People for some reason want to place dirt on them underground.
You can stack several containers above each other. The reason for putting them underground is that they are then less vulnerable to weather/ weapon effects as shelters.Also they maintain a more constant temperature all year round & are less obtrusive.If they are to be underground fallout shelters, then it is the several feet of earth on the roof & sides that stops the gamma radiation, not the 2mm thick steel. To stack underground would need a very deep hole & would be more likely to go below the local water table. There are ways to avoid putting earth directly against the container walls,such as stacking gabion wire baskets filled with rocks around the container. It really depends on if a person wants a house, or a refuge in case of emergency.
You could put a rubber tarp over the top and rebar it and use mesh and make a 5"-6" concrete roof, which if done right could have several feet of dirt on top of done right.👍
The actual corrugated steel walls and roof actually give the shipping container remarkable strength. So when u utilize one were the walls that are bowed out wards it's been loaded beyond its weight carrying capacity, so at that point the roof line is actually sagging length wise of the container. At that point no reputable shipping company would use them do to the fact once its hoisted up from its lifting points the shipping container will be prone to further bending under a heavy load. You are correct about the flooring bearing all the weight, do to the floor joist. However when you turn it upside down the floor joist become non existent, since they are on the incorrect load bearing side.
loveihi I jumped the gun their. I thought you were the type of individual that would go up to your attic and walk on the sheet rock instead of the ceiling joist.
Bamboo also could be used for support using foam panels between solar panel to operate fans you would put in there to allow plenty of air to keep mold in control.
Not sure if you are still doing this but i have a question un answered by ANY video so far... I am burying 3 40' containers that will be welded together with NO dirt on top.. these will be 3 wide with 3 on top (so 9 all together)... how would you reinforce that??? I would think the middle would need nothing correct?? then reinforce the two outside units??
+IJustice Dig down 3 box worth, build containers in a "U". Now you got a courtyard to plant crops. You could pretend you were laying 3 sides of a garage and lay 12 inch block and pour concrete in block with rebar, and push boxes up against the 3 sides and stack. Then fill in dirt around outside block wall.. All windows and doors would be facing the courtyard.
I enjoyed this 3 part series, but I would like to know, why not just brace the inside with lumber then after adding the sealer,rubber and plastic, in case the entire thing in concrete?? I would think that would give better protection against St radiation. Maybe add sheet lead above the plastic and rubber.... Just wondering....
I can't see much point in adding lead.It takes 0.5 inches of lead to cut fallout Gamma radiation in half. Use concrete then earth, it is much cheaper. As you say, encase the thing in poured concrete (pref. reinforced) & put temporary props inside until the concrete sets. Rebar will be ESSENTIAL in the roof, if the container is not upside down.
I'd just use insulated concrete forms and be done with it. It's more flexible as to the shape you need, and better able to deal with ground pressure. Plus it's got insulation from the start. All you'd need to do is pour a reinforced ceiling to support the weight of the ground above.
Concrete per square foot is way more expensive in most areas because you’ll need atleast 24in footings all the way around on top of walls, floor and ceiling.
I thought everyone would know about this? I mean the way I invisioned on how to build underground container things was to more or less build a basement and put the container in them then reinforce the inside with steel gurders have it treated and plastic wrapped before covering in special concrete ?
+Knuckle up !! You'd still want a little extra support even if you put a foot of dirt above it. A square foot of dirt weighs on average 74 to 110 pounds. So a container is 40 feet long, 8 feet wide.40x8=320. 320 square feet times 74 pounds is 23,680 pounds of dirt above your head, being supported by 1/8 inch thick steel.
+Nicks Customs you need to watch the other parts of this series. I invert it and cover with 1/4" plate on top of the floor beams. that is overhead. you should post this on a builders site that doesn't invert the container.
loveihi Oh I wasn't talking about your design, I like the way you did yours. I was responding to the guy who asked if it needed to be supported if it was only half way buried then had a mound of dirt placed over it.
I use to work at an inland port moving these containers for BMW. This guy knows what he is talking about. If you are considering burying one of these, heed this mans advice. These containers are shipped across the ocean,(salt air) it eats up the paint and rusts the hinges. When the hinges rust you can't (CAN'T) open the doors. "5 Acres and a Dream" blog
I look up the simplest thing on line or especially TH-cam.wade through way more than 50% misinformation.don't think ppl are purposely trying to kill people...of course.they just take the word of someone else on here.like kid game where u whisper in a circle and original message is completely changed when it gets back to starting point..messed up!common sence would work.but ppl get distracted by online bs.internet is great & horrible.thanks for breaking this down to r people.probably saved lives in last 5 years.take care.
5400lbs of steel? just use the container as the inside form and poor concrete. plywood form outside and #4 rebar reinforcement waterproofing, ect.. save your money and do it right. the only steel you will need is for making a 12" concrete filled bomb door and hatches. I can put 6 containers (3-40' 3-20' roughly 1500sqft) in the ground this way and make a luxury bunker for less than the cost of building a new home. materials costs.. $20k for the containers $11k for the concrete (8" fully encased) $5k for the steel $5k for the plumbing, electrical, ductwork and routing. so add in labor, excavation, grading, finishing,, air filtration, water and fuel storage ect.. you can have a 1500sqft fully decked out bunker that can withstand a nuclear attack for less than 150k I was a custom concrete home builder, turned federal HazMat contractor with over 20 years of experience.
Very good work sir. THIS container is done right to be buried and be a SAFE structure for generations to come. Anyone that calls bs on this build is a complete idiot...but as always you cant fix stupid. ..even after pic after pic of FAILED containers that were NOT reinforced . Concrete cracks even WITH rebar = FAILURE I'm doing a above ground earth burm and cover and STILL reinforce as shown in these vids and flip. The doors will still open in my build to allow for use as a shop / storm shelter and recording studio at the full 40 ft
Technically accurate but sheesh. Being prepared is one thing. Being a paranoid peepee? No thanks. Flame thrower and IED ports !! Murka!! “Sponsored by the Fearmongers Shop” 😑
Haha, so funny. Americans, stupid crazy. Haven't had a war on their territory for over two centuries yet there are these idiot preppers preparing for "armageddon". Then you have these biblical prophet fools. Hilarious.
I used to work in the shipping container industry, this man is very correct in what he's saying. The containers and stacked on top of one another but ALL the weight is on the corner beams. When you put concrete or soil on the top or sides it could very well collapse in!
But, you could use it as a form for a concrete pour. First you could shore up the inside with 4 x 4s, then seal any holes, then coat the outer 6-sides with a rubber sealant, then place it upside down on a concrete slab, set rebar, set forms for minimum 30 inch thickness, then pour concrete. Let it set a week, then cut your entry point, and remove the shoring. It could be at grade or in a trench. If I did it at grade then I would set tires around it, fill in rocks and gravel, and pour concrete. Adding layers until I had a tornado-shelter. 20 inches concrete or 36 inches dirt minimum for nuclear fallout.
Good video.I hope people listen to you because You are right on.no short cuts!
I would never have thought about inverting them. Great idea👍👍
Good video but it’d really really help if you didn’t leave your camera zoomed in the whole time.
Awesome ! Your video makes the most sense of any I've seen so far. Looking forward to more videos !
need more guidance like this, thank you great job
Hello Lamberto, first off as you know I am NOT a big fan of leaving the floor underneath you. That is so strong and you're not using it at all. get up top and walk on the roof and you will feel it flex that is only one eighth corrugated steel. If you're going to pour concrete on that extensive bracing must happen or you will have a cave in, concrete is very heavy, after it hardens it should be okay. Another problem I see is the wood. It holds moisture and when it is buried the air transfer is limited. you do not want to have mold in your shelter when you needed it. When you draw in moist air to a cool environment it sweats you will constantly have a problem with moisture and half to run the dehumidifiers to remove the moisture. That is why I limits porous material inside. As for sealing it I use the same paint as they use on bridges if you ever see construction companies sandblasting a bridge and repainting it that paint is very durable. when you paint it on the shelter and bury it it is now out of the elements as of dirt, Wind, salt, heat. so it will last underground for decades. If it should get a scratch the cor ten steel is out of the elements also. Cor ten steel last for a very long time it has anti-corrosion materials built into the steel. One more thing is the floor is not waterproof if you take out one of the floor screws you will have any open hole in the floor. So if you do not inverted and cover the floor with solid steel you will have to run a sump pump so you don't get moisture coming up through the floor. I hope this information has helped you let me know how it goes.
A point for diesel generators, biodiesel isn't impossible to produce.
you should get a gopro with a since the wide angle would help you quite a bit.... and maybe a hand held gimbal :)
That's a great idea for a shelter.
I'd probably put this mostly into a hill so 3 sides are covered by earth and weld some beams to reinforce the exposed entrance and weld a couple large throw bolts to lock it from the inside.
Here are a few questions: I dug the hole and cast a 2 foot re-inforced concrete floor. I placed the shipping container on there (normal side up) and secured the footing at the appropriate points. I boxed the exterior of the container with polystyrene (shapes cut to fit, 2 inches thick, between the metal container and with plywood on the exterior - for insulation purposes). Why should I not re-bar and encapsulate the entire structure with concrete (whilst curing, the container shell will obviously be held up by internal scaffolding to carry the weight). Once the concrete is cured after 2 weeks, it will be strong enough surely? Do I really need metal re-inforcement on the inside? Please advise....
as long as you brace it well til the concrete hardens I don't see a problem.
+Wynand Koegelenberg Nope ,just brace walls and ceiling till concrete hardens.
Personally, rather than spend time & money on welding / reinforcing the container internally, I would put plenty of rebar in the concrete & lots of temporary props inside. Rebar closely spaced (say 6-8 inches) also helps control crack widths. In simple terms, the concrete will be more watertight.Don't have the concrete too wet,(you can always add plasticiser). Do use a poker vibrator.
I built a portcullis on the entrance of my shelter and used 10 50,000 btu propane torch heads to create my flame wall ,5 flush mounted electrically ignited torch heads let side of the door ,at full flame under 30lbs pressure the flame from each side makes a solid wall of flame ,a single 100 pound propane cylinder tested out at 21 minutes of full burn on all 10 torch heads .
I thought about doing a 2 story 40 foot container should I do it with strong side up for one and the other the same way and weld them ?
I like the turning over the container but all that steel is quite expensive. I could swing the inside bracing but was thinking plywood floor inside and concrete on the outside on top. Also could I getaway with 2 brace walls in a 40' hi-cube and the 2x4 c channel on the sides?
There’s a shelter expert that says the real pressure is always at the bottom not the top when burying a shelter.
Any update on whether this has held up?
Hey Mike! I have a simple question that I would like to ask you, I am in the process of making a complete concrete home underground, how thick should I make the walls and ceiling, and should I add rebar to the concrete as well?
not sure about concrete thickness, I'm good with steel. I think Rebar is a must for strength. maybe someone with more concrete experience can comment.
loveihi
Thanks hopefully some one will! :)
+Aleksei Krasnov Alesnarovich Honestly, here is what I would do. Sit box in hole on reinforced concrete foundation with proper drainage. (2) run pipe on outside of box where you need it to go inside, such as for power going in. (3) put 4 inch insulation on outside of walls. (4) I would Build a 6 inch wide rebar grid around the insulation. Where the windows are doors are I would weld steel plate that goes out 1 foot, if none disregard this part. After you got your rebar grid, go out 1 foot and start laying flat rock, do this all the way up. (5) Pour concrete in between the insulation and rock wall. Let it cure for at least 3 days, if not a week. (6) Built up rock wall another foot all around, rock wall is now a foot over the height of the box. (7) Now lay a rebar grid on top of the box and you can do this with box in original position floor down, and pour a 3 of inches of concrete and let that cure 3 days. Put more rebar down and pour full the last 9 inches. Don't forget the entrance though, that needs to be sorted first if coming in from top, or you can do it from the side if you want and lay wall up to it. If on the side put a beam across the top to lay more rock on. Personally, I would come in from the door side and have the one side a rock wall with a door and small windows for natural light. But it would be hard to find that rock entrance side after good camo is done. So you would be burying the floor, ceiling, and 3 sides. On the exposed side I would probably lay rock out to 1.5 feet, and do everything like before, but now you got almost an impossible wall to get through. An NBC safe door and 1 inch steel plate that goes over those small windows would make it pretty safe. A porch overhang with a grill before you come to the safe door even better, just build out more rock wall, now you can grill out of rain and eyes of others. You would want the entrance way buried too, and now all they see is a rock wall with a entrance which you could make non normal so it just looks like a hole in rock, and windows that are just spaces in the rock outer wall. Now plant bamboo or whatever out fron't and you can make yourself a little small yard and hide the whole thing in there. They see bomboo grove and that's it. If they find the yard inside then they see the wall, but not till then. Would be hard to even spot from above as bamboo trees would hide it, and hide the top real good too after you plant them on top.
*****
Wow mate, thanks!!
Hey Mike! Am I able to purchase the details form you on what thickness of steel, welds/ where they should be positioned? I have an engineer willing to vet the structural integrity drawings provided for our 20’ container before we bury it for peace of mind that it’ll hold up under earth!
Hi, I am in the process of burying a container right now. I left it with the floor down and I will frame it with wood inside just like a house. I was thinking of adding a 4" concrete slab on top with lots of rebar . Also I used 30 gallons of Henry waterproofer sealer on the all the sides and top nothing under (too hard to lift)
I was thinking that the wood studs and rafters would add enough support (I won't be adding lots of dirt on the roof just a slab. I will cover the whole thing with 6 mil poly sheeting over the Henry sealer for extra protection. I would like to know how you will waterproof your outer walls
Thanks
Need to be using something like tar for waterproofing
I was wondering if inverting them was an option
What would happen if you put a bunch of temporary braces inside, rebar on the outside, and pour concrete over it, then remove the inside braces?
Nice I like it
Since there designed to be stacked due to the strength being on the outside edges, would that work underground, mean you don't put dirt on the roof of the containers you place other containers on top of it, and surround them with a water Barrier to prevent rusting and back fill around say 3 or more containers stacked underground. Use the strength of the containers rather than having to reinforce them. People for some reason want to place dirt on them underground.
You can stack several containers above each other. The reason for putting them underground is that they are then less vulnerable to weather/ weapon effects as shelters.Also they maintain a more constant temperature all year round & are less obtrusive.If they are to be underground fallout shelters, then it is the several feet of earth on the roof & sides that stops the gamma radiation, not the 2mm thick steel.
To stack underground would need a very deep hole & would be more likely to go below the local water table. There are ways to avoid putting earth directly against the container walls,such as stacking gabion wire baskets filled with rocks around the container.
It really depends on if a person wants a house, or a refuge in case of emergency.
I have spent months studying making wine and came across a great website called Pavas grape plan (google it if you're interested)
You could put a rubber tarp over the top and rebar it and use mesh and make a 5"-6" concrete roof, which if done right could have several feet of dirt on top of done right.👍
thank u and yes I do want to ask more questions I will get hold of u Thursday God bless
The actual corrugated steel walls and roof actually give the shipping container remarkable strength. So when u utilize one were the walls that are bowed out wards it's been loaded beyond its weight carrying capacity, so at that point the roof line is actually sagging length wise of the container. At that point no reputable shipping company would use them do to the fact once its hoisted up from its lifting points the shipping container will be prone to further bending under a heavy load. You are correct about the flooring bearing all the weight, do to the floor joist. However when you turn it upside down the floor joist become non existent, since they are on the incorrect load bearing side.
when it's rolled over it is plated so the floor is supporting the weight. watch more and learn
loveihi I jumped the gun their. I thought you were the type of individual that would go up to your attic and walk on the sheet rock instead of the ceiling joist.
Love it, made me subscribe!!!
Bamboo also could be used for support using foam panels between solar panel to operate fans you would put in there to allow plenty of air to keep mold in control.
Not sure if you are still doing this but i have a question un answered by ANY video so far... I am burying 3 40' containers that will be welded together with NO dirt on top.. these will be 3 wide with 3 on top (so 9 all together)... how would you reinforce that??? I would think the middle would need nothing correct?? then reinforce the two outside units??
+IJustice Dig down 3 box worth, build containers in a "U". Now you got a courtyard to plant crops. You could pretend you were laying 3 sides of a garage and lay 12 inch block and pour concrete in block with rebar, and push boxes up against the 3 sides and stack. Then fill in dirt around outside block wall.. All windows and doors would be facing the courtyard.
Love to know how you get on
Weld in some cross members and pour concrete with rebar and you are good to go
If you insulated the walls with closed cell spray foam you wouldn't get moisture from sweating.
"Dying is not hard, its the living that will drive you nuts, crazy"
Hey! I'm in NE Ohio as well and considering this project for my property.
Is there a way I can contact you?
Inverted?! Interesting
I enjoyed this 3 part series, but I would like to know, why not just brace the inside with lumber then after adding the sealer,rubber and plastic, in case the entire thing in concrete?? I would think that would give better protection against St radiation. Maybe add sheet lead above the plastic and rubber.... Just wondering....
I can't see much point in adding lead.It takes 0.5 inches of lead to cut fallout Gamma radiation in half. Use concrete then earth, it is much cheaper. As you say, encase the thing in poured concrete (pref. reinforced) & put temporary props inside until the concrete sets. Rebar will be ESSENTIAL in the roof, if the container is not upside down.
Thank you friend!!!
What'll happend to the generators of emp strikes
he is right i've seen alot of crane operators easily tear them up myself as well when i first started
I'd just use insulated concrete forms and be done with it. It's more flexible as to the shape you need, and better able to deal with ground pressure. Plus it's got insulation from the start. All you'd need to do is pour a reinforced ceiling to support the weight of the ground above.
Concrete per square foot is way more expensive in most areas because you’ll need atleast 24in footings all the way around on top of walls, floor and ceiling.
Id put some carpet or something to help with the echo
Saving peoples lives
Spend as much money as you can and you can have anything you want.
How much for you to build me one? Or possibly two connected.
Bro Can u add a video how to identify a container and how to know about the feet and owners code
not sure what you are asking. watch the videos and you can see the container. feet and owner code?? not a clue what you mean
Needs to be properly reinforced on all sides. Ventilated. Waterproofed. thats the three main objectives.
Bro i dig your show. I likes.yo.honesty....how u siad ...oh i lost my train.of thpught
You can’t go wrong with a guy named Mike Love.
I live in Alliance,Oh. Good video.
This guy reminds me of Kurt Russel
my geni is gas / propane won't gel in the cold and I think ppl won't think about propane the first round of looting
good info
I thought everyone would know about this? I mean the way I invisioned on how to build underground container things was to more or less build a basement and put the container in them then reinforce the inside with steel gurders have it treated and plastic wrapped before covering in special concrete ?
thanks for the video. I didnt know any of that. you sound like you know what you're talking about buddy.
Thx
nice welds
Someone who finally knows what they're talking about.
Jordan m not really. This is way over engineered and costly. It can be done way cheaper and stinger using other methods.
could you bury one 1/2 way and cover it like a army bunker
+Knuckle up !! You'd still want a little extra support even if you put a foot of dirt above it. A square foot of dirt weighs on average 74 to 110 pounds. So a container is 40 feet long, 8 feet wide.40x8=320. 320 square feet times 74 pounds is 23,680 pounds of dirt above your head, being supported by 1/8 inch thick steel.
+Nicks Customs you need to watch the other parts of this series. I invert it and cover with 1/4" plate on top of the floor beams. that is overhead. you should post this on a builders site that doesn't invert the container.
loveihi Oh I wasn't talking about your design, I like the way you did yours. I was responding to the guy who asked if it needed to be supported if it was only half way buried then had a mound of dirt placed over it.
@UCc9w6I3Lmh2SnVuSvQ6qPyg
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I use to work at an inland port moving these containers for BMW. This guy knows what he is talking about. If you are considering burying one of these, heed this mans advice. These containers are shipped across the ocean,(salt air) it eats up the paint and rusts the hinges. When the hinges rust you can't (CAN'T) open the doors. "5 Acres and a Dream" blog
I look up the simplest thing on line or especially TH-cam.wade through way more than 50% misinformation.don't think ppl are purposely trying to kill people...of course.they just take the word of someone else on here.like kid game where u whisper in a circle and original message is completely changed when it gets back to starting point..messed up!common sence would work.but ppl get distracted by online bs.internet is great & horrible.thanks for breaking this down to r people.probably saved lives in last 5 years.take care.
why not have a log cabin facial look that would support those walls
whats the average cost of the steel you use for one container?
All that extra steel has to be very expensive.
I'm in Ohio I gotta go check these out been wanting to bury a few
5400lbs of steel? just use the container as the inside form and poor concrete. plywood form outside and #4 rebar reinforcement waterproofing, ect.. save your money and do it right. the only steel you will need is for making a 12" concrete filled bomb door and hatches. I can put 6 containers (3-40' 3-20' roughly 1500sqft) in the ground this way and make a luxury bunker for less than the cost of building a new home.
materials costs..
$20k for the containers
$11k for the concrete (8" fully encased)
$5k for the steel
$5k for the plumbing, electrical, ductwork and routing.
so add in labor, excavation, grading, finishing,, air filtration, water and fuel storage ect.. you can have a 1500sqft fully decked out bunker that can withstand a nuclear attack for less than 150k
I was a custom concrete home builder, turned federal HazMat contractor with over 20 years of experience.
Very good work sir.
THIS container is done right to be buried and be a SAFE structure for generations to come. Anyone that calls bs on this build is a complete idiot...but as always you cant fix stupid. ..even after pic after pic of FAILED containers that were NOT reinforced . Concrete cracks even WITH rebar = FAILURE
I'm doing a above ground earth burm and cover and STILL reinforce as shown in these vids and flip. The doors will still open in my build to allow for use as a shop / storm shelter and recording studio at the full 40 ft
Technically accurate but sheesh. Being prepared is one thing. Being a paranoid peepee? No thanks. Flame thrower and IED ports !! Murka!!
“Sponsored by the Fearmongers Shop”
😑
Whos here watching world fall apart
How may I contact you directly?
you can email me at prosteelproducts@gmail.com
I don't agree with you at all. These things are stacked 7 high or more on container ships with over 20 tons each.
good thing im a welder
Bunkers won't get you through Armageddon. Getting right with God is the only thing that will.
Tim Sharpe go jizz in your bible
why can I get right with god inside my bunker?
Haha, so funny. Americans, stupid crazy. Haven't had a war on their territory for over two centuries yet there are these idiot preppers preparing for "armageddon". Then you have these biblical prophet fools. Hilarious.
I live in Stuttgart Germany. Tunnels that connected neighbors have since been filled. Go figure... Germans and Americans stupid people?
I don't get it for the cost of prepping a shipping container to be buried you might as well just buy concrete and block and make sure you're safe
he is right i've seen alot of crane operators easily tear them up myself as well when i first started