I installed these on my 2020 mustang GT and they look great and performance a lot better than I thought they would living out here in Wisconsin, where we have some serious pot holes!
After our photo on Friday, some of you wanted to learn more about the Pro-Kit Springs from Eibach for the 2015 Mustang. Watch the full installation video below, then snag a set for your new 2015 Mustang: www.cjponyparts.com/eibach-spring-pro-kit-set-2015/p/EBS27/
Just got this done and everything went exactly as demonstrated on your video. However, my manual spring compressors did not comply with the diameter of the spring perch so I had to jack with that to find a sweet spot where they would compress and release clear of the perch. I logged about 4 hours actual install time in my driveway on jacks, but the spring compressor puzzle took about 30% of total install time, other than that the install was a cake walk and the results look great.
You need to use a dead blow hammer on the lower bolts. I have a non-marking type hammer but if you place a block of wood on the end of the bolts they shouldn't distort as you drive them out. it takes some smacking to drive them out.
Yeah, they're pretty hard to tap out. I think I was using a 4lb hammer and it took some pounding. I'm glad to hear you weren't using a roofing hammer or anything light weight.
@@erichowen8389 go to harbor freight and pickup a 4lb sledge best 10$ i ever spent my problem is i cant get the top hats to sit straight with the bearings
Have now just done rear of new '15 GT with Track Pack. Two major issues 1) top of shock pistons/rods now have a pressed-on spacer, which must be removed in order to remove boot on shock (build date 12/09/14) in order to install the Eibach bump-stop; and 2) the rear spring doesn't just pull out when you press down on the suspension as shown in the video...eventually after much effort, and re-watching this video, I had to first use a spring compressor to shorten the spring as much as possible (could only get one on--yikes), then a 4' steel pry bar to press the suspension down, then a 2 1/2 # short sledge hammer to tap out the top of the spring. I had to work alone, so trust me when I say you are well-advised to have a very large, very strong friend with a large pry bar to assist in getting that spring out of there. Since the Eibach rear is a bit shorter, it went in without being compressed, but the pry bar was still necessary. Also, to avoid a trip to the local AutoZone when everything's apart, have a small gear puller available beforehand to remove that press fit spacer. Also, since I'm putting on a cat-back exhaust, I had pulled off stock exhaust beforehand to give myself more room to work during the above...and it was still a major pain.
I will keep an eye out for the pressed on spacer, we have done a few of these installs now and have yet to run across that issue. I also have not had any issues getting the spring out as shown. It probably looks easier on video but a good tug with the suspension dropped as shown and it came right now on several different cars.
Bill Tumas Thanks. The difficulty was with the RRear; when I did the LRear the next day, it was cake, just like the video. Another issue is that the big bolts on the bottom of the front strut just wouldn't come out after taking off the nuts. I ultimately used a 2 1/2 # short sledge, and even that didn't budge them. Thinking that current production might've gone to normal threaded bolts, I tried using a substantial lever on the 1/2" ratchet to see if they'd move at all. Nothing happened. I held back using my 350# impact wrench out of concern for snapping off the bolt head. My local dealer's parts guy didn't have any bolts in stock yet, and he couldn't tell from the online parts display. The service guys haven't taken one apart yet, so they didn't know either. So, it's going to the dealer to R & R the struts and put on the Eibach springs. I'll report back on what they actually find.
James Bianchi Here's the final dope on this: the big bolts joining strut to hub are still splined. The tech at the dealership also pounded the crap out oft he bolts without result. Then...he used a spring compressor to RELIEVE THE PRESSURE on the splined bolts, and they just tapped out. This may be unique to the Track Pack setup, but maybe just later in the model run issue. Cherish this info...I paid to get it.
James Bianchi Forgot to mention...when the dealer did the front springs, they also did alignment. Said that the alignment came out Ford perfect, i.e., they were able to get the factory alignment with the Eibach Pro springs with no problems.
I would make sure the spring is seated properly in the pocket on the rear suspension, There is a specific place it should go which we show in the video.
Bill Tumas what tool is used to support the subframe for the rear spring install. I didn’t notice it in the tools needed section. and is it a necessary tool that’s needed for rear installation?
Thank you so much for this awesome vid! I have 20" rims on my Mustang GT. Would I still be able to use this kit without any issues as far as tire clearance goes? And will all the items you described be included in the kit, or are there different stages to the Pro-Kit? And one more question, would this change the suspension geometry? I was concerned whether or not the lower control arm would remain parallel to the ground. Sorry for all the questions, they've just been running through my mind... I plan to purchase this kit soon, and I'm looking forward to bonding with my new car with working on her myself. Thank you so much.
These will work fine with 20 in wheels, there are no other parts required but a few people have gone with Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates or Eibach camber bolts to dial in the alignment. The geometry is changed slightly but creates no issues, most people including myself have felt the car gets better traction with less hop with the lowering springs installed.
cJ is there only two long bolts holding the entire subframe in or your just undoing one side at at a time? Does the subframe have locating pins in the unibody? Torque specs?
***** The torque spec I was given was 89 ft/lbs so that is what I went went. Ford used the same spec for K member to chassis bolts and previous IRS as well Phil C There are 2 large bolts per side, I did one side at a time
Paul Anthony pro eibach will make your car lower, but I’ve heard a lot of people having problems with them due to getting your car re-aligned at the shop because it’s too low. I went with the sport line and really the pro make the car sit about an .25 of an inch lower. So I guess it’s up to you.
Looks straightforward, but for reinstall, shouldn't Ford's torque specs be used? If so, what are they/how do we find them? Some battery-powered impact wrenches can put out more than 350 ft-lbs, enough to ruin stuff. Some sites have said that the front struts use a once-use set of nuts & bolts, and that replacement sets are available from Ford for about $20. Is it correct that the original stuff should not be reused? Please respond.
The only torque spec we had access to was the subframe bolts at 89 ft/lbs. Ford has used torque to yield bolts for years and recommends them for one time use only but most people don't replace good bolts every time they take something apart. It is up to you weather you want to do that or not.
Bill Tumas Thanks Bill; the torque specs are pretty important on suspension components. The 89 ft/lbs is unexpected; I would've definitely over-torqued. From another source, I found that the torque specs on those lower strut bolts is about the same, 89 ft/lbs if others are interested.
Great video, would definitely sway me to buy springs from you guys when it's time, although the angle at 11:36 leaves the onlooker a little confused - hard to see what you're aligning. How easy would you wager dropping the subframe for the rear suspension is using jackstands in a garage? Have to put it up fairly high and support it with a jack?
We have had a few customers install them in their home garage on jackstands without issue.The spring sits in a perch in the bottom, its easy to see once you are there, but really can't get the camera in there.
What are the alignment specs after you drop vehicle. I purchased Eibach pro kit springs after watching video and information is not included with springs. Shops(Firestone,discount tire, etc.) don't have the alignment specs for these cars yet and I went to Ford dealership and they don't have the specs either. Kind of pointless to be selling kits that don't have wheel alignment specs included especially when shops don't have this info yet in there systems. Tires will go bad fast... Fail for Eibach for lack of alignment specs.
Actually no and nobody wanted to touch it. Every car has different specs for caster, camber and toe. Plus these cars do not have adjustments for caster and camber as they are fixed. The camber is what gets thrown off when lowered and they don't sell any camber adjustment bolts for these cars yet. What I did was buy one for the 2014 mustang which worked on the 2015 but was a much skinnier bolt but still worked. I had my brother who works at firestone as a tech get the stock specs before lowering and getting the print out. He entering a 2004 mustang cobra to get specs as these cars came with IRS. Everything came out in red which proves that all cars have different specs. You have to enter a vehicle with IRS and not solid axle or it wont give you any specs for rear tires. As far as the stock specs I got here it goes for anyone that needs them. -0.8 Left & -1.1 Right camber front, 7.2 Left and 7.1 Right caster front, -0.18 Left & 0.13 Right toe. Toe seems to be off from factory as they are not close to each other. As for the rear here are the specs. -1.4 Left & -1.5 Right camber rear, 0.07 Left & 0.24 Right toe. Again the rear toe also seems to be off from factory but the car drove straight, no vibrations with smooth ride.
tomnguyen717 rear also has no adjustments which is weird ford didn't include this and did include this on my 11 year old 2004 mustang cobra which has adjustments for camber in the rear with an eccentric bolt from the factory.
Alex G find a better shop, theres no reason a local (non-chain) shop cant get it on their lift and align the car properly. like tomnguyen717 said a good shop will be able to regardless of having specs.
hello cj pony, i am a customer and i just bought a set of eibach pro kit springs and the dealer just called me to tell me that i now need a camber kit, i was just wondering if this is true and if so why wasn't i told at the time of purchase or even on this video? now my car is at the dealer stuck because the parts are not even available for purchase so my car has to stay parked till then or pay another $300 to install the stock ones back... how can you guys help i have spent over $1000 in your company this month alone
There is no reason to reinstall the stock springs, most cars will align to spec without the camber bolts. If it doesn't it will only be slightly out and will not hurt anything until you get the camber bolts installed. Eibach only recently listed one for 2015 GT fitment, long after this video was made. We are adding them but if you need them in a hurry Summit Racing has them in stock. Part number is 5.81280K
Hi, 2017 Mustang s550 with 275/35/20 in the front and 295/35/20 rear, can I still use this Pro-kit set? Totally fine even I turn the wheel to the very end, right?
i noticed that the install on the gt the tire/rim combo is smaller than what I have. I have the gt premium convert with the 20" tire package. will this kit fit my car?
Well I guess my to do list just got a bit longer. Great video, makes feel like I could do this on my own. Anyone know how much would it cost to have this done?
damir becirevic If you're close enough to Harrisburg, PA to want to do it at CJ's, I can check with our service guy tomorrow to see what labor runs. The parts are $245.
CJ Pony Parts I wish I was I'd have you schedule an appointment right now, but I'm out of Chicago. You guys wouldn't happen to have a shop out this way or work with someone you trust?
I have a 2015 MUSTANG GT with performance package and went with 20x10 with 275/35/20 fronts and 20x11 with 305/35/20 in the rears. A) will lowering it with the pro kit be fine (rubbing) B) will I need to get the Eibach adjustable camber bolts? Thank you
+Jahcrooks Depends on weather or not the new springs are within the working range of the original shocks and struts. If you go too low the stock parts will wear prematurely, an inch to an inch and half and you will typically be ok.
hows the ride? i mean if u dont replace the shocks and just the springs usually it gets bouncy, also what size are the tires and wheels.just to get an idea
what the best coilover suspension and maybe sway bars that u would.recomend for daily driving comfort while.still being better than stock at the track.?
I see below you said CC plates are not "necessary", but would they still help with alignment or is it redundant? Also, would a bumpsteer kit be a wise addition to the lowering springs even though it's not too big of a drop? Thanks for anyone who can help, I'm still kind of a newb with this.
On an IRS car there are no longer conventional upper and lower control arms that you would swap out. The factory arms are nice from Ford, if anything a bushing upgrade would not be a bad idea.
Bill Tumas Bill question.. after install with this springs.. an alignment should get done with no problem? no camber arms needed for the s550's or anything? new to the stang community, coming from a 350z-370z those needed camber arms to get the alignment on point and not have to much negative camber.. thanks in advance
Yes, anytime you raise or lower a vehicle it will inevitably change the toe etc, an alignment is absolutely necessary. I would also recommend checking the camber/caster after lowering, if it's off by much you need to get it either adjusted at the same time or purchase caster/camber plates or spacers. If you can find a quality shop where you can buy lifetime alignments that will setup your car to your liking and specifications I would go for it.
We tried that. You can't compress it enough by hand, if you have a spring compressor that fits or feel lucky with a prybar you can get it out that way.
Hi bill, what size wheel would you recommend after the pro kit installation. I'm thinking 20"x 10.5 but im not sure if they would work. Please advise. Thanks!!
Wasted a lot of time taking calipers and rotors off, probably would have been better just to use a wrench on the caliper side and a breaker bar on the other.
Its only two bolts to remove caliper and he said there are splines on the bolt to stop it from rotating. Plus removing the disk makes it easier to work.
I called Eibach to ask about that and their reply was that rear camber doesn't change so no problem at all. On the front end, the lowering results in 1/2º more negative camber than factory spec. In my view that's trivial; and keep in mind that a little more negative camber up front reduces front end plow and improves handling...at least within the area of 1/2 - 1º.
The new 60 fps youtube allows is awesome. It even makes car videos look better.
I know right? Thanks for taking advantage of it Bill and the CJ crew.
I installed these on my 2020 mustang GT and they look great and performance a lot better than I thought they would living out here in Wisconsin, where we have some serious pot holes!
Did you need a alignment and does the car have a issues like scrapping
After our photo on Friday, some of you wanted to learn more about the Pro-Kit Springs from Eibach for the 2015 Mustang.
Watch the full installation video below, then snag a set for your new 2015 Mustang:
www.cjponyparts.com/eibach-spring-pro-kit-set-2015/p/EBS27/
+CJ Pony Parts
Now.....the million dollar question.
How much does ride quality suffer?
Just got this done and everything went exactly as demonstrated on your video. However, my manual spring compressors did not comply with the diameter of the spring perch so I had to jack with that to find a sweet spot where they would compress and release clear of the perch. I logged about 4 hours actual install time in my driveway on jacks, but the spring compressor puzzle took about 30% of total install time, other than that the install was a cake walk and the results look great.
Did you have trouble knocking out the splined bolts at the base of the strut? Mine won't budge no matter how hard I pound on them.
You need to use a dead blow hammer on the lower bolts. I have a non-marking type hammer but if you place a block of wood on the end of the bolts they shouldn't distort as you drive them out. it takes some smacking to drive them out.
*****
Thanks. I finally got them out. It took the full force of two hands on my 3lb. hammer.
Yeah, they're pretty hard to tap out. I think I was using a 4lb hammer and it took some pounding. I'm glad to hear you weren't using a roofing hammer or anything light weight.
@@erichowen8389 go to harbor freight and pickup a 4lb sledge best 10$ i ever spent my problem is i cant get the top hats to sit straight with the bearings
Have now just done rear of new '15 GT with Track Pack. Two major issues 1) top of shock pistons/rods now have a pressed-on spacer, which must be removed in order to remove boot on shock (build date 12/09/14) in order to install the Eibach bump-stop; and 2) the rear spring doesn't just pull out when you press down on the suspension as shown in the video...eventually after much effort, and re-watching this video, I had to first use a spring compressor to shorten the spring as much as possible (could only get one on--yikes), then a 4' steel pry bar to press the suspension down, then a 2 1/2 # short sledge hammer to tap out the top of the spring. I had to work alone, so trust me when I say you are well-advised to have a very large, very strong friend with a large pry bar to assist in getting that spring out of there. Since the Eibach rear is a bit shorter, it went in without being compressed, but the pry bar was still necessary. Also, to avoid a trip to the local AutoZone when everything's apart, have a small gear puller available beforehand to remove that press fit spacer. Also, since I'm putting on a cat-back exhaust, I had pulled off stock exhaust beforehand to give myself more room to work during the above...and it was still a major pain.
I will keep an eye out for the pressed on spacer, we have done a few of these installs now and have yet to run across that issue. I also have not had any issues getting the spring out as shown. It probably looks easier on video but a good tug with the suspension dropped as shown and it came right now on several different cars.
Bill Tumas Thanks. The difficulty was with the RRear; when I did the LRear the next day, it was cake, just like the video.
Another issue is that the big bolts on the bottom of the front strut just wouldn't come out after taking off the nuts. I ultimately used a 2 1/2 # short sledge, and even that didn't budge them. Thinking that current production might've gone to normal threaded bolts, I tried using a substantial lever on the 1/2" ratchet to see if they'd move at all. Nothing happened. I held back using my 350# impact wrench out of concern for snapping off the bolt head.
My local dealer's parts guy didn't have any bolts in stock yet, and he couldn't tell from the online parts display. The service guys haven't taken one apart yet, so they didn't know either. So, it's going to the dealer to R & R the struts and put on the Eibach springs. I'll report back on what they actually find.
James Bianchi Here's the final dope on this: the big bolts joining strut to hub are still splined. The tech at the dealership also pounded the crap out oft he bolts without result. Then...he used a spring compressor to RELIEVE THE PRESSURE on the splined bolts, and they just tapped out. This may be unique to the Track Pack setup, but maybe just later in the model run issue. Cherish this info...I paid to get it.
James Bianchi Forgot to mention...when the dealer did the front springs, they also did alignment. Said that the alignment came out Ford perfect, i.e., they were able to get the factory alignment with the Eibach Pro springs with no problems.
I came here to see if that spacer had been addressed. I just started the rear of my car and it has it on there. Car is a 2018 GT Base
Great video, the music cracks me up. I wish you guys would include torque specs in the videos.
3 ugga duggas
Yes this will work fine with all stock wheels and many aftermarket as well.
i helped my cousin install eiback pro-kit springs on his ctsv and i gotta say that this 15 mustang suspension seems a lot more durable then his ctsv
beautiful color on the 15 too
I would make sure the spring is seated properly in the pocket on the rear suspension, There is a specific place it should go which we show in the video.
Bill Tumas what tool is used to support the subframe for the rear spring install. I didn’t notice it in the tools needed section. and is it a necessary tool that’s needed for rear installation?
What are the torque settings for all the bolts you have to reassemble?
When trying to remove the nut from the strut (like at 4:35) the entire rod moves with the nut, any advice?
You would have to use a strap wrench to hold the strut or use an allen key in the center and a wrench to loosen it.
Get a pneumatic tool and that won't happen.
As soon as I graduate from the nursing program, I'm lowering my 2012gt. Great vid
Did you ever lower it
Love the James bond music! Sets the mood for some awesomeness!
Thank you so much for this awesome vid! I have 20" rims on my Mustang GT. Would I still be able to use this kit without any issues as far as tire clearance goes? And will all the items you described be included in the kit, or are there different stages to the Pro-Kit? And one more question, would this change the suspension geometry? I was concerned whether or not the lower control arm would remain parallel to the ground. Sorry for all the questions, they've just been running through my mind... I plan to purchase this kit soon, and I'm looking forward to bonding with my new car with working on her myself. Thank you so much.
These will work fine with 20 in wheels, there are no other parts required but a few people have gone with Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates or Eibach camber bolts to dial in the alignment. The geometry is changed slightly but creates no issues, most people including myself have felt the car gets better traction with less hop with the lowering springs installed.
Hi Bill! Kw lowering springs (st version)are also good in your opinion?
I know this is an old video but it helped me out today. I struggled to get the rear springs out. Not as strong as Bill I guess... Thanks
You would have to get it wheel alignment for sure afterwards!
Should I be concerned if the damper spins as I tighten the top strut mount? Should I clamp it?
As long as it is tight you are fine but if it is spinning you want to secure it and make sure it is tight.
cJ is there only two long bolts holding the entire subframe in or your just undoing one side at at a time? Does the subframe have locating pins in the unibody? Torque specs?
***** The torque spec I was given was 89 ft/lbs so that is what I went went. Ford used the same spec for K member to chassis bolts and previous IRS as well
Phil C There are 2 large bolts per side, I did one side at a time
***** Sportlines will lower the car more. Around 1.5-1.75
Out of the sport line and pro eibach which of the two is lower
Paul Anthony pro eibach will make your car lower, but I’ve heard a lot of people having problems with them due to getting your car re-aligned at the shop because it’s too low. I went with the sport line and really the pro make the car sit about an .25 of an inch lower. So I guess it’s up to you.
Sportline is lower than the Pro-Kit, usually about half inch for most kits.
what about premature shocks/struts wear??
Buy a new set. I'm going with IDS suspension kit.
Looks straightforward, but for reinstall, shouldn't Ford's torque specs be used? If so, what are they/how do we find them? Some battery-powered impact wrenches can put out more than 350 ft-lbs, enough to ruin stuff. Some sites have said that the front struts use a once-use set of nuts & bolts, and that replacement sets are available from Ford for about $20. Is it correct that the original stuff should not be reused? Please respond.
The only torque spec we had access to was the subframe bolts at 89 ft/lbs. Ford has used torque to yield bolts for years and recommends them for one time use only but most people don't replace good bolts every time they take something apart. It is up to you weather you want to do that or not.
Bill Tumas Thanks Bill; the torque specs are pretty important on suspension components. The 89 ft/lbs is unexpected; I would've definitely over-torqued. From another source, I found that the torque specs on those lower strut bolts is about the same, 89 ft/lbs if others are interested.
Is an alignment needed after this?
It is suggested to get an alignment
I'm having trouble with the passenger side top bolt on the spindle to the strut, the rest came out with ease but this one is giving me trouble
Great video as always; looks kinda hard if you want to do it on jack stands though:)
Great video, would definitely sway me to buy springs from you guys when it's time, although the angle at 11:36 leaves the onlooker a little confused - hard to see what you're aligning. How easy would you wager dropping the subframe for the rear suspension is using jackstands in a garage? Have to put it up fairly high and support it with a jack?
We have had a few customers install them in their home garage on jackstands without issue.The spring sits in a perch in the bottom, its easy to see once you are there, but really can't get the camera in there.
How tight does the strut nut need to be though
for the life of me I could not get the rear spring out, what did I do wrong I'm just unable to get any play it's just stiff?
Sounds like you are not lowering the subframe far enough.
Is there a little bit of a rake there? I'm asking cuz I'm gonna install the steeda cradle shims and I don't want too much rear height..
what are the rear sub
frame bolt torque specs?
When lowering the subframe, what was that green thing and what is it for? To help better stabilize the subframe?
Nicholas Banda it’s just a block of wood wrapped in green tape I use to keep from scratching anything
Nicholas Banda what’s the tool he used to support the subframe? The tool that the green block of wood sits on.
What paint colour is that? The flake is awesome.
Magnetic
Bill Tumas Thanks
What are the alignment specs after you drop vehicle. I purchased Eibach pro kit springs after watching video and information is not included with springs. Shops(Firestone,discount tire, etc.) don't have the alignment specs for these cars yet and I went to Ford dealership and they don't have the specs either. Kind of pointless to be selling kits that don't have wheel alignment specs included especially when shops don't have this info yet in there systems. Tires will go bad fast... Fail for Eibach for lack of alignment specs.
if they alignment shop knows what they're doing you shouldnt have any problems
Actually no and nobody wanted to touch it. Every car has different specs for caster, camber and toe. Plus these cars do not have adjustments for caster and camber as they are fixed. The camber is what gets thrown off when lowered and they don't sell any camber adjustment bolts for these cars yet. What I did was buy one for the 2014 mustang which worked on the 2015 but was a much skinnier bolt but still worked. I had my brother who works at firestone as a tech get the stock specs before lowering and getting the print out. He entering a 2004 mustang cobra to get specs as these cars came with IRS. Everything came out in red which proves that all cars have different specs. You have to enter a vehicle with IRS and not solid axle or it wont give you any specs for rear tires. As far as the stock specs I got here it goes for anyone that needs them. -0.8 Left & -1.1 Right camber front, 7.2 Left and 7.1 Right caster front, -0.18 Left & 0.13 Right toe. Toe seems to be off from factory as they are not close to each other. As for the rear here are the specs. -1.4 Left & -1.5 Right camber rear, 0.07 Left & 0.24 Right toe. Again the rear toe also seems to be off from factory but the car drove straight, no vibrations with smooth ride.
tomnguyen717 rear also has no adjustments which is weird ford didn't include this and did include this on my 11 year old 2004 mustang cobra which has adjustments for camber in the rear with an eccentric bolt from the factory.
Alex G
find a better shop, theres no reason a local (non-chain) shop cant get it on their lift and align the car properly. like tomnguyen717 said a good shop will be able to regardless of having specs.
Have a 2015 gt. changed the springs and abs light came on. How do i remove it?
steve carrillo The springs have nothing to do with the ABS sensor. Make sure you did not damage or unplug any of the sensors during the install.
Hi kirby here will a 285 40 20 rear nd a 255 45 20 front work with a 1" to 1.5 " lowering kit ?
hello cj pony,
i am a customer and i just bought a set of eibach pro kit springs and the dealer just called me to tell me that i now need a camber kit, i was just wondering if this is true and if so why wasn't i told at the time of purchase or even on this video?
now my car is at the dealer stuck because the parts are not even available for purchase so my car has to stay parked till then or pay another $300 to install the stock ones back...
how can you guys help i have spent over $1000 in your company this month alone
There is no reason to reinstall the stock springs, most cars will align to spec without the camber bolts. If it doesn't it will only be slightly out and will not hurt anything until you get the camber bolts installed. Eibach only recently listed one for 2015 GT fitment, long after this video was made. We are adding them but if you need them in a hurry Summit Racing has them in stock. Part number is 5.81280K
Hi,
2017 Mustang s550 with 275/35/20 in the front and 295/35/20 rear, can I still use this Pro-kit set? Totally fine even I turn the wheel to the very end, right?
Yes it will be fine with that setup.
I'll be in the Harrisburg area Thursday through Sunday. Do you guys have shop hours Friday or Saturday?
The showroom is open 8-6 Friday and 9-6 Saturday.
i noticed that the install on the gt the tire/rim combo is smaller than what I have. I have the gt premium convert with the 20" tire package. will this kit fit my car?
Yes it will work fine with that setup.
Will this setup work with 20X11 305 35R 20s in the rear?
Kit price and where to buy
great vid, what's the background music?
Well I guess my to do list just got a bit longer. Great video, makes feel like I could do this on my own. Anyone know how much would it cost to have this done?
damir becirevic If you're close enough to Harrisburg, PA to want to do it at CJ's, I can check with our service guy tomorrow to see what labor runs. The parts are $245.
CJ Pony Parts I wish I was I'd have you schedule an appointment right now, but I'm out of Chicago. You guys wouldn't happen to have a shop out this way or work with someone you trust?
damir becirevic Not that I'm aware of, no...sorry!
i paid 150 at a local shop near my work but mines arent irs and they've worked on all my cars
Hey Bill, is it okay to use the stock bump stop for the rear? I cannot fit the ones that came with Eibach, the diameter of the hole is too small.
I have a 2015 MUSTANG GT with performance package and went with 20x10 with 275/35/20 fronts and 20x11 with 305/35/20 in the rears.
A) will lowering it with the pro kit be fine (rubbing)
B) will I need to get the Eibach adjustable camber bolts?
Thank you
You should be fine with just the pro kit.
I have always heard that putting aftermarket(stiffer) springs with your stock struts/shocks will prematurely wear them out. Is this true?
+Jahcrooks Depends on weather or not the new springs are within the working range of the original shocks and struts. If you go too low the stock parts will wear prematurely, an inch to an inch and half and you will typically be ok.
ok, thanks for your response
hows the ride? i mean if u dont replace the shocks and just the springs usually it gets bouncy, also what size are the tires and wheels.just to get an idea
It rides ok but could be improved with new shocks and struts.
what the best coilover suspension and maybe sway bars that u would.recomend for daily driving comfort while.still being better than stock at the track.?
great video. what name brand and model number impact drill are you using?
+Christopher Blake Its a Dewalt DC830KA
Do you know where i can get all the bolt torque specs for this instillation?
Ford only recently released the service manual for the 2015 on CD, you will be able to find everything there.
Bill Tumas thanks, does cj pony sell it?
David86 No we do not
I see below you said CC plates are not "necessary", but would they still help with alignment or is it redundant? Also, would a bumpsteer kit be a wise addition to the lowering springs even though it's not too big of a drop?
Thanks for anyone who can help, I'm still kind of a newb with this.
+Spaceman24 They will help dial in alignment for sure. Bumpsteer really isn't an issue unless you go a little lower.
Always a good vid by yuh guys
Hi Bill, Do you know the torque spec for those front and rear bolts?
Where or who can I go to have the car lowerd for me?
Rene Garcia big ol tires or anyone like that
On a DD, are springs the only thing you really need? Or do you need LCA/UCAs as well?
On an IRS car there are no longer conventional upper and lower control arms that you would swap out. The factory arms are nice from Ford, if anything a bushing upgrade would not be a bad idea.
Did 50/30 ever make it to sema?
sergei marichev Yes, it did. We hope to have a video online very soon.
would this kit work with the 20 inch stock rims?
what size rims are on that car? looked like 19"s wheels
They are the 19x8.5 premium wheels
What size are the wheels on that gt?
Hey, is the color for this mustang magnetic?
Yes
Hi CJ. Eibach Pro Kit will fit to the GT Premium models to? And it will lower?
Yes they will work on the GT Premium and provide the same drop
+Bill Tumas And with the Performance Pack it will be lower or just with the Sport Kit?
Bill Tumas Bill question.. after install with this springs.. an alignment should get done with no problem? no camber arms needed for the s550's or anything? new to the stang community, coming from a 350z-370z those needed camber arms to get the alignment on point and not have to much negative camber.. thanks in advance
Yes I would recommend an alignment and, unless you go extreme with the drop, you will not need any other parts.
Bill Tumas thanks Bill!! 👌
forgot to mention the need for an alignment after the install
Bill, do you have to get an alignment after lowering it? How's the ride quality compared to stock?
Yes, anytime you raise or lower a vehicle it will inevitably change the toe etc, an alignment is absolutely necessary. I would also recommend checking the camber/caster after lowering, if it's off by much you need to get it either adjusted at the same time or purchase caster/camber plates or spacers. If you can find a quality shop where you can buy lifetime alignments that will setup your car to your liking and specifications I would go for it.
can you install this on a convertible?
Yes they will work on a convertible.
What battery powered impact gun do you use?
Dewalt, I have their new 20V model now.
Do you live in USA
is this available for the 2014 GT?
Yes, it is: www.cjponyparts.com/eibach-lowering-spring-pro-kit-set-v6-gt-boss-302-2011-2013/p/EBS18/
bought them thanks...Perhaps I should make a trip in your shop in PA and install them :)
what wheels are those????????????????
MrRinnytintin factory rims
I want those rims in 20inches
No matter how hard I try I cannot get the stock rear springs to come out of my '17 GT.
Thank you for posting
Bill, Im buying these and also the 25mm wheel spacers. Will this be an issue with tire rub? Thx
+Mike C I have not tried that setup personally but others have without issue.
This might sound stupid but wouldn't been easier to just loosen the rear lower control arm push down on it then remove the spring?
We tried that. You can't compress it enough by hand, if you have a spring compressor that fits or feel lucky with a prybar you can get it out that way.
Bill Tumas
i used a prybar :) on my cousins car
tomnguyen717 It absolutely can be done that way but we are not going to show that. There are too many safety issues using the prybar method.
Hi bill, what size wheel would you recommend after the pro kit installation. I'm thinking 20"x 10.5 but im not sure if they would work. Please advise.
Thanks!!
With the proper offset we have run 20x10 all around with no problems, 10.5 should not be an issue
jesus to do this to my integra it took 2 sockets not like 7 lol
Tire wear is going to be a big issue. It'll be a less issue with the live axel.
get a alignment
The s197 is so much easier to work on,thank goodness
Nice!
All those bolts and nuts are supposed to be replaced 😖
Wasted a lot of time taking calipers and rotors off, probably would have been better just to use a wrench on the caliper side and a breaker bar on the other.
Its only two bolts to remove caliper and he said there are splines on the bolt to stop it from rotating. Plus removing the disk makes it easier to work.
Has anybody had trouble knocking out the splined bolts at the base of the strut? Mine won't budge.
two hours with hand tools. air tools and I was done in about 45 mins
Everyone
time for fatter tires lol
You do things the hard way. This can be done a lot quicker and easier. Too many unnecessary steps.
Link to your video???
Will the 1" drop require a camber kit or are the tires still within normal alignment range?
I called Eibach to ask about that and their reply was that rear camber doesn't change so no problem at all. On the front end, the lowering results in 1/2º more negative camber than factory spec. In my view that's trivial; and keep in mind that a little more negative camber up front reduces front end plow and improves handling...at least within the area of 1/2 - 1º.
Will this setup work with 20X11 305 35R 20s in the rear?
Yes