If you are imaging multiple targets, I recommend changing the name of the flats to indicate the object you shot. Example: if shooting M27, name the flat m27flat
Thanks Tony, as always a precise, clear well presented tutorial. I'm using the Flat Wizard and either doing Sky Flats or Dynamic Exposure as I dont have an ASCOM flat panel, only a cheap tracing panel. My question is, in the Flat Wizard, under Dynamic Exposure or Sky Flats, why cant I change the Gain as it's greyed out but have to go into Equipment/Camera and change it there? Also do you know the REAL reason why "they" say Gains in all frames (Lights, flats, dark flats) should match when stacking? Gain and exposure times are only settings to get the histogram ( and ADU) where we want it which is the goal. They are only means to an end. When shooting with a DSLR, you adjust ISO, aperture and shutter speed to get the histogram where you want it. With an astro camera, we generally adjust gain and exposure to get the histogram (or ADU) where we want it. Why do Gains have to match? The reason I'm asking is, I get MUCH better, more manageable results from my flat panel if I drop the gain to 10 in the Flat Wizard. But I have shot my lights with the ASI2600 at its unity gain of 100. Why do they have to match? Thanks, Bob
These are all good tips especially the one about the bit depth. I had to look at what my ASI071MC Pro was set in NINA. I hooked up the camera and connected and the bit depth is set to 16. When I go to ZWO to check the specs it shows ADU is 14 bit. I guess I should set it to 14 bit in NINA? Should I see a visible change in my lights and calibration frames or the way Flat Wizard is operating? I use an artist panel with a medium neutral density film tapped on it. I also use an embroidery ring with two sheets of T shirt material. I place that over the C8 SCT dew shield and the adjustableartist panel on top. Gain in Camera setting is set to 90 and offset 60 and those values carry over to Flat Wizard.I have my ADU set to 40% and I use Dynamic Exposure. I set my exposure min and max for 3 secs. If it fails then I boost up the artist panel on click and try it again. Usually, the flats ADU is between 26000 and 27000. They look like your flats in the video. Then it prompts me for the Dark Flats which shoot at 3 seconds. Thanks
Very good catch. I would always make sure specs are matching. The bit depth set incorrectly would affect the target ADU readout in the flat Wizard, but the captured ADU would be correct. Always make sure you offset and gain are matching your light frames. I also like to make sure temperature is matching as it can affect the ADU in the dark flats and cause some issues with calibration :)
I looked in the NINA manual and they state ZWO cameras should be set to 16bit since they are called up by the drivers. "For ZWO, QHY, SBIG, FLI, PlayerOne and Atik cameras set this to 16bit since they are rescaled by the camera drivers." "Touptek, Risingcam, Altair, Mallincam, Omegon and SVBony do not scale, so set to match bit depth of the camera" Then under Enabling Bit Scaling in advance camera options, "Indicates if data should be shifted to 16 bits. Only relevant for Touptek, Risingcam, Altair, Mallincam, Omegon and SVBony cameras." I find that statement confusing. If I set bit bit depth to 14 and have Bit Scalling enabled it still shows a bit scale of 14 after I disconnect and connect the camera. Maybe bit calling happens behind the scenes. 16 is the default using the ZWO drivers. I don't know about the ASCOM drivers. I guess I'll keep it at 16 bits.
If you are imaging multiple targets, I recommend changing the name of the flats to indicate the object you shot. Example: if shooting M27, name the flat m27flat
Very very good tip! Organization is absolutely key in this hobby :)
Thanks Tony, as always a precise, clear well presented tutorial. I'm using the Flat Wizard and either doing Sky Flats or Dynamic Exposure as I dont have an ASCOM flat panel, only a cheap tracing panel. My question is, in the Flat Wizard, under Dynamic Exposure or Sky Flats, why cant I change the Gain as it's greyed out but have to go into Equipment/Camera and change it there? Also do you know the REAL reason why "they" say Gains in all frames (Lights, flats, dark flats) should match when stacking? Gain and exposure times are only settings to get the histogram ( and ADU) where we want it which is the goal. They are only means to an end. When shooting with a DSLR, you adjust ISO, aperture and shutter speed to get the histogram where you want it. With an astro camera, we generally adjust gain and exposure to get the histogram (or ADU) where we want it. Why do Gains have to match? The reason I'm asking is, I get MUCH better, more manageable results from my flat panel if I drop the gain to 10 in the Flat Wizard. But I have shot my lights with the ASI2600 at its unity gain of 100. Why do they have to match? Thanks, Bob
These are all good tips especially the one about the bit depth. I had to look at what my ASI071MC Pro was set in NINA. I hooked up the camera and connected and the bit depth is set to 16. When I go to ZWO to check the specs it shows ADU is 14 bit. I guess I should set it to 14 bit in NINA? Should I see a visible change in my lights and calibration frames or the way Flat Wizard is operating?
I use an artist panel with a medium neutral density film tapped on it. I also use an embroidery ring with two sheets of T shirt material. I place that over the C8 SCT dew shield and the adjustableartist panel on top. Gain in Camera setting is set to 90 and offset 60 and those values carry over to Flat Wizard.I have my ADU set to 40% and I use Dynamic Exposure. I set my exposure min and max for 3 secs. If it fails then I boost up the artist panel on click and try it again. Usually, the flats ADU is between 26000 and 27000. They look like your flats in the video. Then it prompts me for the Dark Flats which shoot at 3 seconds.
Thanks
Very good catch. I would always make sure specs are matching. The bit depth set incorrectly would affect the target ADU readout in the flat Wizard, but the captured ADU would be correct. Always make sure you offset and gain are matching your light frames. I also like to make sure temperature is matching as it can affect the ADU in the dark flats and cause some issues with calibration :)
I looked in the NINA manual and they state ZWO cameras should be set to 16bit since they are called up by the drivers. "For ZWO, QHY, SBIG, FLI, PlayerOne and Atik cameras set this to 16bit since they are rescaled by the camera drivers." "Touptek, Risingcam, Altair, Mallincam, Omegon and SVBony do not scale, so set to match bit depth of the camera" Then under Enabling Bit Scaling in advance camera options, "Indicates if data should be shifted to 16 bits. Only relevant for Touptek, Risingcam, Altair, Mallincam, Omegon and SVBony cameras." I find that statement confusing. If I set bit bit depth to 14 and have Bit Scalling enabled it still shows a bit scale of 14 after I disconnect and connect the camera. Maybe bit calling happens behind the scenes. 16 is the default using the ZWO drivers. I don't know about the ASCOM drivers.
I guess I'll keep it at 16 bits.
Is there a way to judge how good my flats are?
Yes there is and I am in progress with a video on this very subject :) Should be releasing either Monday or Wednesday
@@Hidden.Light.Photography cool ty
You are very welcome :) Part 1 is being released Wednesday and currently working on part 2 as we speak :)