Currently doing this now. Did the plug for the crank sensor plug in easy enough. Mines a little tight, but scared of taking much more material of the block.
if you can get to the part that releases the plug and the bolt that holds it in then it should be fine. I would not want it to touch the metal but 1mm clearance is all you really need on the other 3 sides. At minute mark ~10:19you can see how much material I removed and I don't think this is a problem. The strongest sections are still very solid.
@sebsway Hi. I too replaced the engine from a BLS to an ASZ, but in a 2008 Superb II. The timing was fitted on interlocks, the synchronisation is around 0. It looks good, the engine runs quietly and smoothly. But I'm having problems elsewhere, like in your video, I also have the "Check engine" on the instrument cluster constantly on and the glow plugs flashing. The engine starts after about 3 seconds, it's not very long but I think it's longer than the previous engine. The diagnostics show me DTCs in the engine: 1) P1116 - heating circuit; 2) P0341 - G40 camshaft sensor; 3) P0227 - G79 accelerator pedal sensors; 4) P0642 - ref voltage too low; 5) P0322 - G28 engine speed sensor. In the diagnostics, the accelerator pedal has the correct percentages, the engine a shaft revs I can see, but I can't see the shaft revs (in VCDS, measurement block no. 51). The engine during acceleration, above 3000 RPM enters emergency mode, cuts power. After disconnecting the camshaft sensor (connector behind the oil filter), there is no change, the engine starts after a few seconds, same errors. Did you also have this problem? Do you know the solution? I'm afraid it's the camshaft sensor, but a new one costs about 100 Euro, I don't want to buy one unnecessarily. In the cable harness socket of this sensor I have 5V and GND, I don't know how to check the signal wire.
did you use the BLS camschft gear? It is a 2 piece part. The tabs on the inner part are what the cam sensor detects and they are very different. I used the BLS cam gear assembly and the sensor because the sensor was a different color plug. I ddidn't know if there was a difference but I knew mine was OK I also found that I had put a vacuum hose on the wrong location. There were 3 on a valve that controlled the wastegate. After driving for a while it would put me in limp mode which will limit the revs and also cut the turbo from spooling to protect the engine.
P0341 is implausible signal. It Usually means the signal is there but not in the correct range. You may need to do the torsion adjustment to fix it. 0 also means out of range. If it was true 0 then it would fluctuate when rev'ed.
I did the swap 4 years ago on my sister's car. Bxe- asz. It was my first time working with these diesels and I had a lot to learn. Back then there wasn't many videos that I could find but there was a write up on darkside developments website. Anyway after doing what I could I got the engine running but it had g28 issues. I knew the signal was bad. After four years of running with that issue the only bad problem was starting as it would take a little longer to start and maybe stall straight Away. But it never not ran. So as my sister changed cars I went back into investigate the g28 issue. I was expecting the hole on the ring to not lime up but it did. What I found was the ring wasn't pushed on far enough. The spec requires 0.5mm below the crank face and this was only 0.3mm. I corrected that issue and then the car worked again on g28 however the new code was p0341. My guess is now that the g28 was working it wasn't lined up with the camshaft Sensor. The torsion was on 0kw. I had to advance the timing tiny bit at a time until the torsion started to read. Now it starts and drives good. It's such a precise thing I think some people will need to do similar to fix issues like starting and sensor codes. Like you I unplugged the cam sensor and the code was different. It was p3007 no signal. So I knew it was timing issue. Hope this helps
After installing rear main seal(crankshaft) without a tool, did it leak. I've got a polo blm engine and it's leaking i must replace it but i can't afford the installation tool. So if you managed to overcome the leaking problem then i might as well give it a try. Thanks for the video.
no problems as of now. It isn't hard to do if you just take your time and be very careful. The new seal is flexible and not likely to damage. The key is making sure the seal is properly located as you install it and also it doesn't "push out" where it actually seals onto the crank. It should fold into the engine (away from you) touching the crank with the surface you can still see....if that makes sense. On the BLS it is also the crank sensor so the position is more important than on other engines. The ASZ originally sensed the crank from a sprocket inside the engine. I am not sure how it happens inside the engine you have. Let me know if you have any other questions , concerns or clarifications.
nice work ther Seb, did the same back in 2018 and the car i still running fine, i had the DPF emptied and ECU tuned with turbo from BMP tdi which gave a nice power and torque. One thing i would like to know that did you swap the oil dipstick from BLS to ASZ OR if anyone else can help in this regards. I need to put the engine plastic cover and the plastic dipstick hole is slightly different. Thanks
I used the ASZ dipstick. The engine I purchased came with it so I didn't want to chance the level being wrong by switching it out. Especially once I realized that I could not use the BLS oil pan. It is just floating in front of the engine and not bolted down. So far so good
Hello, very good video. One question, does the BLS motor come with double mass? or simple? I have a seat ibiza 2008 bls engine and it turns out that the factory comes with a single mass, it turns out that for 1 year with a new clutch kit + Sachs brand single mass the car shakes when leaving or parking, only releasing the pedal little by little if you do it with more nerve no It shakes, if you try to correct it with the accelerator at about 1000/1500 everything is fine and the shaking goes away. with the old clutch kit the same shaking... What could it be ? thank you 😊
My Caddy had the dual mass flywheel and clutch and I have no problems with shaking. I did replace the clutch set during this engine swap because it had over 215,000 km on it and the clutch plate was pretty thin but not worn out yet. I did contemplate using a single mass because the price was much less expensive but my research told me that shaking was an issue with the single mass clutches on the diesel. I think the diesel engine requires a bit more mass in the flywheel because of the mass of the rotating mass of the engine for a smooth operation. Also the caddy is a bit heavier than many 1.9 equipped cars. This same clutch is also used in the T5 transporters with the 1.9. When I cross referenced the part number it pulled up the transporter first.
@@sebsway Thanks for answering, I don't know how often it does it, there are times when it doesn't, what I realized is that it always does it when it reaches 90 degrees, I have good injectors, engine values are good. I changed the clutch thinking that I was going to solve the shaking problem but it didn't... shame...
I am not familiar with every engine code. Sometimes the blocks are the same, sometimes they are different. You would need to inspect each one to see what the differences are. I used the ASZ because it was a PD130 and used the particular heater hose body. There were other PD130 engines with other codes that had a different heater hose bodies. The ASZ PD130 engines were an older design but maybe newer engines require less work. I also found the ASZ for under 500 EUro and all the others were well over 1000 and some were over 2000 Euro.
BLS has different camshaft and injectors, because of dpf, if you use ASZ camshaft and injectors you will clog up your dpf, incresed fuel consumption and a noisy idle. About timing, you should set your timing around -1.5 - -2.5. A smaller gear on oil pump dosen t mean a higher oil pressure, oil pump has a relase valve.
I did not change the camshaft from the ASZ to the BLS but I did ultimately use the BLS injectors. I did another video on that. I lost well over 100km per tank with the ASZ injectors. Now that I have changed the injectors back to the BLS injectors, my fuel mileage has returned to normal.
@@sebsway Glad to hear that, the main difference between ASZ and BLS camshaft isn t about performance or gas mileage, but ASZ can t make DPF regeneration, because lobe of injectors are slightly different. But, if you have dpf removed from software, this shouldn t bother you.
@@ruseadrian5490 Shortly after I switched back to the BLS injectors my DPF light came on. My research said that you need to travel 15-20 km at 2000 to 2500 rpm over 40 mph with more than 1/4 tank of fuel and it would do the regeneration. My wife loves to drive the car with very little fuel in it So I filled the tank and got on the Autobahn and got up to 100kmh and within just a few minutes my car was blowing a lot of white smoke. This happened for about 1-2minutes and within 20 km the light went off. I don't know where you live but here in Germany I think every diesel must have a particulate filter. If it is removed, your car can be impounded and the fines are very heavy. I met a guy who had his A6 impounded for months after it was found that his DPF had been removed. They take that stuff real serious here. Germany is like the California of Europe.
@@sebswayI am european too, i live in Romania, our laws about emissions are the same, you can t cut dpf, cat, etc too, because you gonna have your license plates took. About the light and white smoke, this might be because ASZ injectors flooded your dpf with fuel. Keep an eye on distance to distance between regenerations, with ASZ camshaft the car will try harder to make dpf regeneration.
I didn't lock the camshaft but I did lock the crank when replacing the timing belt. The camshaft pulley can only go on in one position with the keyway. The valve springs and rocker arms were strong enough to keep the cam from moving while i removed the pulley. If I remember correctly I put a small mark on the pulley before belt removal to make sure it didn't move and if it did I could just realign it easily with minimal rotation. When I put the outer pulley back on I just used the bolt markings on the pulley to make sure the pulley was timed the way it was before I removed it. When you remove the bolts the metal is a different color and was easy to see where the bolts should be. I hope this helps.
Bonjour , je viens de commencer le remplacement du BLS (Caddy) par un ARL (Seat Leon tdi 150) je compte aussi garder la boite 6 de la Seat, mais je ne sais pas quels cardans utiliser... je me demande aussi si on ne peut pas garder le capteur PMH d'origine de ARL en modifiant que la fiche électrique
Google traduction en français..... Cela va représenter un gros gain de puissance si vous remplacez les ordinateurs. Allez-vous également changer les ordinateurs ? Les capteurs peuvent devenir un problème car ils mesurent différemment selon les moteurs. Je pense que vous aurez des codes d'erreur moteur si vous remplacez simplement les pièces du plug-in. En ce qui concerne les essieux moteurs, je vérifierais si les essieux Leon fonctionneront. S'ils ne conviennent pas, vous pourrez peut-être les mesurer et en trouver. Des essieux sur mesure sont disponibles, mais ils peuvent être coûteux.
Yes I think any front drive transmission will work as long as it was mated to a 1.9 or 2.0 Tdi. I did replace my clutch, bearing and flywheel while it was out. I have a dual mass flywheel in my van but not all cars have this option. It is more expensive but is supposed to be much smoother engagement. You can just use the stock one if it doesn't need replacement. But you will need to replace all the bolts when reusing the old clutch or if they do not come with the new setup. They are stretch bolts and will not torque properly when reused.
I’m doing this swap from bxe to ASZ, how did you get the engine to TDC or know when it’s at TDC without removing the head when installing the crankshaft sensor?
If I remember correctly there is a mark on the crankshaft gear and also on the cam gear. You can also tell when #1 is at the top by the compression of the valves. You can also remove the glow plugs and rotate until you have compression on the cylinder. But I would suggest you confirm that with a couple of other sources. The sensor will not care. It is more about getting the rear main seal on correctly because that is where the signal pickups are.
I think it runs a little rich. I don't know if the injectors are larger or if the cam has a different profile or both. I think my gas mileage has suffered slightly and I now have some "jumpy" throttle feel when at steady throttle. Especially noticeable at 40-60 kph in 3rd gear. That is where it seems to make the most power. The turbo also seems to spool up faster and I can hear it spool up where before it was very hard to hear it. The difference in overall power is negligible because I am running the stock turbo. Another Thing that could be a factor is that my timing might be a bit more advanced than before. When I installed the timing belt I tried to get everything as close to factory settings....bolt markings on the cam pulley and such. But it could have been a fraction of a degree different causing my fuel injection to activate at a slightly different time. But overall I am happy with the performance so far. At some point I would like to install a larger turbo and remap but I don't have any need for it, just on the wish list for the future.
Normally pd130 injectors and GT1749V turbo with remap as the move from Ed c15 to edc 16 ecus or use original pd105 bv39 or gt1649 turbo and injectors or will run rich
@@marcb5328 Thanks bud! I think I will put my 105 injectors back in when I get some time. I want to refurbish them when I do, so I will need to get a bolt/seal kit before I do it. I don't need more power but i really do want it. Cost and time are always the factors that control my wants.
I am doing now conversion from bls to bxe and no let engine crank i left old wires and i change the egr old something no let me crank have you got any probs ? Have you put the old injectors me i left the old in the engine ? Thanks
I rebuilt the BLS injectors and installed them later. The ASZ injectors were too big and my fuel mileage was about 100km less per tank. So I put the BLS injectors back in and it has been back to normal. I am not sure about the EGR change. I reused my BLS egr system. You must use the cam pulley from your BLS or the timing will not be correct. Did you replace the timing belt?
@@sebsway i got the old engine pulley i will change it tomorow ive seen some garages today they said not touching i hope your words is my exit on this 🍻🙏
@@danrus3529 BLS or BXE? There are tiny tabs on the inner part of the pulley that the sensor picks up. These tabs are engine specific so you must use the original BLS pulley.
no. I didn't upgrade the Turbo and I have now exchanged the injectors back to the BLS injectors. So ultimately still have a PD105 with the strength of the PD130 bottom end. I think you would need to upgrade the ECU if you were to use the PD130 or upgraded turbo and injectors. The PD130 injectors were way to rich and lowered my fuel mileage by about 70 miles per tank and caused some throttle response issues. So i rebuilt the PD105 injectors and swapped them out and that fixed those issues.
Hey great work you've done there I'm thinking to do the same swap and I got some questions did you feel any increase in power ? Any difference in the fuel consumption ? The engine noise at idle ?
I do think I have an increase in power but i am not sure if that is from the engine. During the assembly i cleaned all of my intake parts which had a lot of carbon buildup. I also cleaned the egr valve and throttle body. It just seems a little more peppy. The PD130 usually has a slightly larger turbo and a couple of psi more boost. 1 psi is roughly equal to 10 hp. so 2.5 extra psi of boost would give you the extra 25 hp. I did not change or remap my computer because I just kept everything stock. The engine is a tiny bit more noisy at idle but not considerably. Not really noticeable inside the car but it is outside the car and especially in a garage where echos happen. As for fuel economy...it seems to have suffered some but I have also been hauling a trailer much more recently and also more in town driving since the repair so that could have something to do with it. I also have a random fuel smell inside the car when the a/c is on. I reused the PD130 injectors and I think they may be slightly larger injectors for the increased HP. I could be running just a little rich on my fuel ratio because of that. I am thinking of switching them out for the originals but I need to get an injector rebuild (new seals) kit and new injector bolts before I can do that.
No I swapped them out with the original BLS injectors. The ASZ injectors were too large for the stock tune and stock turbo. Fuel mileage suffered about 100 km per tank which equals about 6-7 liters of fuel or about 12 euro per tank extra cost
BLS motor od 77kw poznat je po slabim klipnjačama. Zamijenio sam ga s motorom ASZ 130 PS ili 96kw jer je napravljen puno jače, ali motor je u osnovi isti.
Asz engine have bigger oil cooler under oil filter check on internet chanse to someone put smaler oil cooler is small, there is one more diffrend asz have holes for oil squirters under piston if doesent its not asz
@@dzemo3484 I used all the bolt on parts from my BLS PD105 because the ASZ parts did not interface with my Caddy. AS you can see i the video i had to make significant modifications to use this engine. Yes the original ASZ oil cooler was larger but that is now located in my spare parts bin.
Currently doing this now. Did the plug for the crank sensor plug in easy enough. Mines a little tight, but scared of taking much more material of the block.
if you can get to the part that releases the plug and the bolt that holds it in then it should be fine. I would not want it to touch the metal but 1mm clearance is all you really need on the other 3 sides. At minute mark ~10:19you can see how much material I removed and I don't think this is a problem. The strongest sections are still very solid.
@sebsway Hi. I too replaced the engine from a BLS to an ASZ, but in a 2008 Superb II. The timing was fitted on interlocks, the synchronisation is around 0. It looks good, the engine runs quietly and smoothly.
But I'm having problems elsewhere, like in your video, I also have the "Check engine" on the instrument cluster constantly on and the glow plugs flashing. The engine starts after about 3 seconds, it's not very long but I think it's longer than the previous engine.
The diagnostics show me DTCs in the engine: 1) P1116 - heating circuit; 2) P0341 - G40 camshaft sensor; 3) P0227 - G79 accelerator pedal sensors; 4) P0642 - ref voltage too low; 5) P0322 - G28 engine speed sensor.
In the diagnostics, the accelerator pedal has the correct percentages, the engine a shaft revs I can see, but I can't see the shaft revs (in VCDS, measurement block no. 51).
The engine during acceleration, above 3000 RPM enters emergency mode, cuts power.
After disconnecting the camshaft sensor (connector behind the oil filter), there is no change, the engine starts after a few seconds, same errors.
Did you also have this problem? Do you know the solution?
I'm afraid it's the camshaft sensor, but a new one costs about 100 Euro, I don't want to buy one unnecessarily.
In the cable harness socket of this sensor I have 5V and GND, I don't know how to check the signal wire.
did you use the BLS camschft gear? It is a 2 piece part. The tabs on the inner part are what the cam sensor detects and they are very different. I used the BLS cam gear assembly and the sensor because the sensor was a different color plug. I ddidn't know if there was a difference but I knew mine was OK
I also found that I had put a vacuum hose on the wrong location. There were 3 on a valve that controlled the wastegate. After driving for a while it would put me in limp mode which will limit the revs and also cut the turbo from spooling to protect the engine.
P0341 is implausible signal. It Usually means the signal is there but not in the correct range. You may need to do the torsion adjustment to fix it. 0 also means out of range. If it was true 0 then it would fluctuate when rev'ed.
I did the swap 4 years ago on my sister's car. Bxe- asz. It was my first time working with these diesels and I had a lot to learn. Back then there wasn't many videos that I could find but there was a write up on darkside developments website.
Anyway after doing what I could I got the engine running but it had g28 issues. I knew the signal was bad.
After four years of running with that issue the only bad problem was starting as it would take a little longer to start and maybe stall straight
Away. But it never not ran.
So as my sister changed cars I went back into investigate the g28 issue. I was expecting the hole on the ring to not lime up but it did. What I found was the ring wasn't pushed on far enough. The spec requires 0.5mm below the crank face and this was only 0.3mm.
I corrected that issue and then the car worked again on g28 however the new code was p0341. My guess is now that the g28 was working it wasn't lined up with the camshaft Sensor. The torsion was on 0kw. I had to advance the timing tiny bit at a time until the torsion started to read.
Now it starts and drives good. It's such a precise thing I think some people will need to do similar to fix issues like starting and sensor codes.
Like you I unplugged the cam sensor and the code was different. It was p3007 no signal. So I knew it was timing issue. Hope this helps
thanks for the video, im attempting this in a couple days.
good luck. If you have any questions I can try to help
After installing rear main seal(crankshaft) without a tool, did it leak. I've got a polo blm engine and it's leaking i must replace it but i can't afford the installation tool. So if you managed to overcome the leaking problem then i might as well give it a try. Thanks for the video.
no problems as of now. It isn't hard to do if you just take your time and be very careful. The new seal is flexible and not likely to damage. The key is making sure the seal is properly located as you install it and also it doesn't "push out" where it actually seals onto the crank. It should fold into the engine (away from you) touching the crank with the surface you can still see....if that makes sense. On the BLS it is also the crank sensor so the position is more important than on other engines. The ASZ originally sensed the crank from a sprocket inside the engine. I am not sure how it happens inside the engine you have. Let me know if you have any other questions , concerns or clarifications.
nice work ther Seb, did the same back in 2018 and the car i still running fine, i had the DPF emptied and ECU tuned with turbo from BMP tdi which gave a nice power and torque. One thing i would like to know that did you swap the oil dipstick from BLS to ASZ OR if anyone else can help in this regards. I need to put the engine plastic cover and the plastic dipstick hole is slightly different. Thanks
I used the ASZ dipstick. The engine I purchased came with it so I didn't want to chance the level being wrong by switching it out. Especially once I realized that I could not use the BLS oil pan. It is just floating in front of the engine and not bolted down. So far so good
Hello, very good video. One question, does the BLS motor come with double mass? or simple? I have a seat ibiza 2008 bls engine and it turns out that the factory comes with a single mass, it turns out that for 1 year with a new clutch kit + Sachs brand single mass the car shakes when leaving or parking, only releasing the pedal little by little if you do it with more nerve no It shakes, if you try to correct it with the accelerator at about 1000/1500 everything is fine and the shaking goes away. with the old clutch kit the same shaking... What could it be ? thank you 😊
My Caddy had the dual mass flywheel and clutch and I have no problems with shaking. I did replace the clutch set during this engine swap because it had over 215,000 km on it and the clutch plate was pretty thin but not worn out yet.
I did contemplate using a single mass because the price was much less expensive but my research told me that shaking was an issue with the single mass clutches on the diesel.
I think the diesel engine requires a bit more mass in the flywheel because of the mass of the rotating mass of the engine for a smooth operation. Also the caddy is a bit heavier than many 1.9 equipped cars. This same clutch is also used in the T5 transporters with the 1.9. When I cross referenced the part number it pulled up the transporter first.
@@sebsway Thanks for answering, I don't know how often it does it, there are times when it doesn't, what I realized is that it always does it when it reaches 90 degrees, I have good injectors, engine values are good. I changed the clutch thinking that I was going to solve the shaking problem but it didn't... shame...
@@rubenfix6993 did you resurface the pressure plate when you changed the clutch?
Everything is new single mass + Sachs brand clutch kit, before it had Valeo brand from the factory. but the same symptoms...
1 year ago I changed the camshaft sensor, could the crankshaft sensor be the cause? ( it's an idea )
would engine code ARL be the same as the ASZ as in making the hole in the side etc like same as everything in this video ??
I am not familiar with every engine code. Sometimes the blocks are the same, sometimes they are different. You would need to inspect each one to see what the differences are.
I used the ASZ because it was a PD130 and used the particular heater hose body. There were other PD130 engines with other codes that had a different heater hose bodies. The ASZ PD130 engines were an older design but maybe newer engines require less work.
I also found the ASZ for under 500 EUro and all the others were well over 1000 and some were over 2000 Euro.
yeah. its the same!
BLS has different camshaft and injectors, because of dpf, if you use ASZ camshaft and injectors you will clog up your dpf, incresed fuel consumption and a noisy idle.
About timing, you should set your timing around -1.5 - -2.5.
A smaller gear on oil pump dosen t mean a higher oil pressure, oil pump has a relase valve.
I did not change the camshaft from the ASZ to the BLS but I did ultimately use the BLS injectors. I did another video on that. I lost well over 100km per tank with the ASZ injectors. Now that I have changed the injectors back to the BLS injectors, my fuel mileage has returned to normal.
@@sebsway Glad to hear that, the main difference between ASZ and BLS camshaft isn t about performance or gas mileage, but ASZ can t make DPF regeneration, because lobe of injectors are slightly different. But, if you have dpf removed from software, this shouldn t bother you.
@@ruseadrian5490 Shortly after I switched back to the BLS injectors my DPF light came on. My research said that you need to travel 15-20 km at 2000 to 2500 rpm over 40 mph with more than 1/4 tank of fuel and it would do the regeneration. My wife loves to drive the car with very little fuel in it
So I filled the tank and got on the Autobahn and got up to 100kmh and within just a few minutes my car was blowing a lot of white smoke. This happened for about 1-2minutes and within 20 km the light went off.
I don't know where you live but here in Germany I think every diesel must have a particulate filter. If it is removed, your car can be impounded and the fines are very heavy. I met a guy who had his A6 impounded for months after it was found that his DPF had been removed. They take that stuff real serious here. Germany is like the California of Europe.
@@sebswayI am european too, i live in Romania, our laws about emissions are the same, you can t cut dpf, cat, etc too, because you gonna have your license plates took. About the light and white smoke, this might be because ASZ injectors flooded your dpf with fuel. Keep an eye on distance to distance between regenerations, with ASZ camshaft the car will try harder to make dpf regeneration.
Hi
What tool did you use to lock camshaft when swapping cam pulleys over?
I didn't lock the camshaft but I did lock the crank when replacing the timing belt. The camshaft pulley can only go on in one position with the keyway. The valve springs and rocker arms were strong enough to keep the cam from moving while i removed the pulley. If I remember correctly I put a small mark on the pulley before belt removal to make sure it didn't move and if it did I could just realign it easily with minimal rotation. When I put the outer pulley back on I just used the bolt markings on the pulley to make sure the pulley was timed the way it was before I removed it. When you remove the bolts the metal is a different color and was easy to see where the bolts should be.
I hope this helps.
Bonjour , je viens de commencer le remplacement du BLS (Caddy) par un ARL (Seat Leon tdi 150) je compte aussi garder la boite 6 de la Seat, mais je ne sais pas quels cardans utiliser... je me demande aussi si on ne peut pas garder le capteur PMH d'origine de ARL en modifiant que la fiche électrique
Google traduction en français.....
Cela va représenter un gros gain de puissance si vous remplacez les ordinateurs. Allez-vous également changer les ordinateurs ? Les capteurs peuvent devenir un problème car ils mesurent différemment selon les moteurs. Je pense que vous aurez des codes d'erreur moteur si vous remplacez simplement les pièces du plug-in.
En ce qui concerne les essieux moteurs, je vérifierais si les essieux Leon fonctionneront. S'ils ne conviennent pas, vous pourrez peut-être les mesurer et en trouver. Des essieux sur mesure sont disponibles, mais ils peuvent être coûteux.
Can you use the 5 speed gearbox from the BSL? And what flywheel and clutch would I need?
Yes I think any front drive transmission will work as long as it was mated to a 1.9 or 2.0 Tdi. I did replace my clutch, bearing and flywheel while it was out. I have a dual mass flywheel in my van but not all cars have this option. It is more expensive but is supposed to be much smoother engagement. You can just use the stock one if it doesn't need replacement. But you will need to replace all the bolts when reusing the old clutch or if they do not come with the new setup. They are stretch bolts and will not torque properly when reused.
I’m doing this swap from bxe to ASZ, how did you get the engine to TDC or know when it’s at TDC without removing the head when installing the crankshaft sensor?
If I remember correctly there is a mark on the crankshaft gear and also on the cam gear. You can also tell when #1 is at the top by the compression of the valves.
You can also remove the glow plugs and rotate until you have compression on the cylinder.
But I would suggest you confirm that with a couple of other sources.
The sensor will not care. It is more about getting the rear main seal on correctly because that is where the signal pickups are.
Do you have any problems with pd130 injectors and stock pd105 map?
I think it runs a little rich. I don't know if the injectors are larger or if the cam has a different profile or both.
I think my gas mileage has suffered slightly and I now have some "jumpy" throttle feel when at steady throttle. Especially noticeable at 40-60 kph in 3rd gear. That is where it seems to make the most power. The turbo also seems to spool up faster and I can hear it spool up where before it was very hard to hear it. The difference in overall power is negligible because I am running the stock turbo.
Another Thing that could be a factor is that my timing might be a bit more advanced than before. When I installed the timing belt I tried to get everything as close to factory settings....bolt markings on the cam pulley and such. But it could have been a fraction of a degree different causing my fuel injection to activate at a slightly different time. But overall I am happy with the performance so far.
At some point I would like to install a larger turbo and remap but I don't have any need for it, just on the wish list for the future.
Needs Darkside developments remap or equivalent, or put pd105 injectors back in
Normally pd130 injectors and GT1749V turbo with remap as the move from Ed c15 to edc 16 ecus or use original pd105 bv39 or gt1649 turbo and injectors or will run rich
@@marcb5328 Thanks bud! I think I will put my 105 injectors back in when I get some time. I want to refurbish them when I do, so I will need to get a bolt/seal kit before I do it. I don't need more power but i really do want it. Cost and time are always the factors that control my wants.
@@marcb5328 I put my BLS injectors back in and my fuel mileage has returned to normal and my throttle response is also smooth under constant throttle.
I am doing now conversion from bls to bxe and no let engine crank i left old wires and i change the egr old something no let me crank have you got any probs ? Have you put the old injectors me i left the old in the engine ? Thanks
I rebuilt the BLS injectors and installed them later. The ASZ injectors were too big and my fuel mileage was about 100km less per tank. So I put the BLS injectors back in and it has been back to normal.
I am not sure about the EGR change. I reused my BLS egr system.
You must use the cam pulley from your BLS or the timing will not be correct.
Did you replace the timing belt?
@@sebsway no i left the old pulley
@@sebsway i got the old engine pulley i will change it tomorow ive seen some garages today they said not touching i hope your words is my exit on this 🍻🙏
@@danrus3529 BLS or BXE? There are tiny tabs on the inner part of the pulley that the sensor picks up. These tabs are engine specific so you must use the original BLS pulley.
@@danrus3529 check the 24:42 mark in the video. It shows the differences of the inner pulley parts
Did you do anything with ecu
no. I didn't upgrade the Turbo and I have now exchanged the injectors back to the BLS injectors. So ultimately still have a PD105 with the strength of the PD130 bottom end. I think you would need to upgrade the ECU if you were to use the PD130 or upgraded turbo and injectors. The PD130 injectors were way to rich and lowered my fuel mileage by about 70 miles per tank and caused some throttle response issues. So i rebuilt the PD105 injectors and swapped them out and that fixed those issues.
Hey great work you've done there I'm thinking to do the same swap and I got some questions did you feel any increase in power ? Any difference in the fuel consumption ? The engine noise at idle ?
I do think I have an increase in power but i am not sure if that is from the engine. During the assembly i cleaned all of my intake parts which had a lot of carbon buildup. I also cleaned the egr valve and throttle body. It just seems a little more peppy. The PD130 usually has a slightly larger turbo and a couple of psi more boost. 1 psi is roughly equal to 10 hp. so 2.5 extra psi of boost would give you the extra 25 hp.
I did not change or remap my computer because I just kept everything stock.
The engine is a tiny bit more noisy at idle but not considerably. Not really noticeable inside the car but it is outside the car and especially in a garage where echos happen.
As for fuel economy...it seems to have suffered some but I have also been hauling a trailer much more recently and also more in town driving since the repair so that could have something to do with it.
I also have a random fuel smell inside the car when the a/c is on. I reused the PD130 injectors and I think they may be slightly larger injectors for the increased HP. I could be running just a little rich on my fuel ratio because of that. I am thinking of switching them out for the originals but I need to get an injector rebuild (new seals) kit and new injector bolts before I can do that.
the injectors steel the asz ones ?
No I swapped them out with the original BLS injectors. The ASZ injectors were too large for the stock tune and stock turbo. Fuel mileage suffered about 100 km per tank which equals about 6-7 liters of fuel or about 12 euro per tank extra cost
Zasto ste izvadili motor 77 bls Ne razumem prevod Hvala
BLS motor od 77kw poznat je po slabim klipnjačama. Zamijenio sam ga s motorom ASZ 130 PS ili 96kw jer je napravljen puno jače, ali motor je u osnovi isti.
Koristio sam Googel translate za hrvatski. Nadam se da je u redu
that is not asz its pd 100 its smaller oil cooler evry asz have bigger one.
I don't understand what you are saying. The engine was a complete ASZ PD130 purchased from a salvage yard.
Asz engine have bigger oil cooler under oil filter check on internet chanse to someone put smaler oil cooler is small, there is one more diffrend asz have holes for oil squirters under piston if doesent its not asz
@@dzemo3484 I used all the bolt on parts from my BLS PD105 because the ASZ parts did not interface with my Caddy. AS you can see i the video i had to make significant modifications to use this engine. Yes the original ASZ oil cooler was larger but that is now located in my spare parts bin.