…to…to what?? Don’t forget to WHAT?!! I MUST KNOW!!! In the meantime, I guess I’ll just paint more mini’s while I wait for the answer in the next video…
I would've kept the bubbles in the bases. I am a rock collector, and when the black ink was put in, I thought it looked like a base of pure obsidian. When obsidian breaks, it is called a conchoidal fracture, which coincidently looks exactly like how resin breaks. I'd like to imagine if my troops are being shot on a pure obsidian surface, the shots would fracture that way.
A few things when working with silicone and resin 1 - Pour it from farther away. Allowing the fluid to pour in a thin stream helps pop some bubbles on the way down 2 - The faster the curing time, the more bubbles you will get. If you get a resin that takes a bit longer to cure and vibrate the mold you will get a lot of bubbles to move to the surface (also gives you a lot more time to do the brush trick). But usually unless the resin is very thick, just by filling the molds slowly and letting it flow into the cracks on it's own already helps avoiding trapping air in there (pouring with the mold on an angle like you did also helps) 3 - Try to squeeze the container while pouring so it has a bit of an oval shape. Helps you pour a thinner stream as you don't need to tilt the cup so much causing a lot of resin to come out all at once, cause if you don't tilt it as much without squizing the cup the resin runs down the sides of the container. 4 - I noticed you used a PS plastic (polystyrene - number 6) cup. Some resins corrode this type of plastic and you end up with it all over your desk. So if you're gonna use a different resin look it up first cause you may need a PP plastic (polypropylene - number 5) cup.
As someone who casts resin regularly 3 things can help with the bubbles, 4 if you are willing to make new moulds 1 - using a resin with a longer cure time to give the bubbles longer to rise out 2 - heating the resin a little before mixing to thin the resin, which makes it easier for the bubbles to rise out, and it speeds up the curing too 3 - getting yourself a pressure pot to shrink any bubbles as small as possible 4 - if you make new moulds you could attach a thin straw on the problem parts to make vents for the air in the bubbles to escape from
Pressure would put gas into liquid, but maybe shrinking bubbles is easier than pulling them out in a vacuum. Vibrating the mould with a 20 USD dental cast tool would help as well.
To help getting the resin into all of the nooks and crevices, brush a very fine dusting of talc into the molds, it will help the resin flow into the details.
Good luck with the Army - Jenn approves of the choice in Drukhari - also cobalt keep are amazing. Also how did you get Scott to do such a good cosplay of you at the end?
Bubbles? No a prob, looks like newly formed lava rock to me. Well done sir. Got a lot of good ideas on how far to push some 3rd edition Dark Eldar Kabs in my collection.
Hands down my favorite EOB video to date! Beautiful minis, but the walk through your basing process was particularly ace. Very much looking forward to the next part of this project!🎉
I love this. I'm basically having two or technically three differently themed dark eldar forces and you gave me the idea of casting eldar ruin bases much like you have done here with the rocks.
Top tip for getting rid of bubbles from casting. Vibrate the mould and the air bubbles rise to the top. This works perfectly for plaster but I've not tried it with resin. 👍
Little tip. If you pick some macwax release spray, and a flat piece of acrylic the size of the mould. Spray the acrylic will the release, and when you pour your casting resin, squeeze the acrylic over the top of the mould and wet resin and weigh down. Once cured, removed the acrylic, the release agent will stop the resin sticking and it will give you perfectly flat back bases and means no sanding 😊 love the content
Try using a syringe with a fine nib to inject into the small orifaces. You can remove some air bubbles with the syringe by pulling it whilst blocking the hole to create a 'vacuum' so to speak.
you should use some vacuum to get the bubbles out. get a plastic container, cut a hole in the lid or side and attach a small vacuum. A tiny shop vac taped to the hole. put the mold in the container. pour the liquid in, pop lid on and turn vacuum on. It should suck any bubbles out.
Great job on the mold! You can dust baby powder into the mold and blow it out with canned air to cut down on bubbles. The powder helps break the surface tension of the slick silicone and the resin can flow better. Also using the tooth pick to get in the tight ares was a good call. When mixing the A & B of the resin I would suggest using a third mixing cup that is bigger. Then you'll have more room for mixing and can re-use your A & B cups. Keep up the good work!
Maybe you could drill in to the pointy bits then using that as a guide, use a diamond dremel to carve out a channel for the air to escape each protrusion? Possibly also inserting heat-shrink tubing (used for electronics) to reinforce the holes and stop the rubber from closing up. The pour of the moulds will then be a lot quicker overall, leaving time to finesse the pouring process overall? You could then pour a little in each, give them a quick stir with a disposable brush, before completely filling them all.
The easiest way to fix the bubbles is to use a different resin that hardens slower. Gives you more time to pour slowly and work the resin into those pointy bits.
If you're having issues with bubbles and getting your resin (or any other casting material) into the nooks and crannies of your moulds you can spray them with a mix of water and a rinse aid like Jet-Dry before casting to improve the flow. Another option is to use vibration. You can attach a "personal massager" (one with a good rumble like a proper Magic Wand works best) to a small sheet of plywood and set your mould on it. Start with a lower setting and work your way up so you don't splash the resin.
A lot of people have given some advice on resin pours, but you can also get an...adult buzzbuzz toy...to vibrate those out. Something cheap with lots of potential power. Or an impact massager can work too.
I have multiple suggestions for the casting issue with the bases. - Break/cut some of them around those areas. It should help avoid too many copies of the same base becoming noticeable. - Leave some of the holes and maybe add more in places. Done right it should start to look like either igneous rock or possibly bullet holes. - Use UV resin + opaque red pigment (or some other acceptable goop) to cover the hole and surround area to look like fresh gore. - Coat underside of rocks around the holes to look like freaky alien moss. OSL for luminescence not required, but would make a few stand out more. - Add more rocks or other elements to the cast bases to hide the holes. - You could also change the resin you're using and or use large pins to make vents in the mold. Vents might make it harder to get casts out and reduce the lifespan of the molds though.
Half way through this video, it dawned on me that I use a super similar scheme for my Idoeneth. Dark Elves like pink and teal no matter what realm they're in.
Hi Jay, Do you use any airbrush thinner or airbrush flow improver at all when varnishing with the Vallejo Satin Mecha Varnish? If so what kind of ratios are you using? Thank you in advance!
I never thought I'd like a pink paint scheme but this one I really like. I especially like the bases you built for these. Together it all is outstanding.
Nice job Jay. I've done some casting myself. I keep a heatgun nearby when I pour the silicone. Platinum cure sets nearly instantly with heat...don't use on foam core. If you use durable walls the heat will stop any leaks. Also you could vent those points by spearing the mold with tiny brass pipe, just to make a hole, don't leave it in. You can razor blade from the vent to the opening. Make a crooked line so it seems together better. I'm really impressed how well you did on your first try.
I've done a lot of work with Resins and molds over the last 5 years. What might help you getting better casting is either degassing or painting the interior before you pour with the resin. One method to do the later is to drip a little resin into the mold then turn the molds so that it coats all the interior walls. Once done a tap with a torch (outside) will get the bubbles on the surface and you can do a second pour to fill the core.
I went down the base recasting a few years ago. I wanted to base my whole GSC army with the sector imperialis bases and I wanted to have a few sentinels and weapons teams but GW only sold 4 60mm bases in the set. I realized I would have to buy so many boxes I shelved the project for a while then GW discontinued the sector imperialis bases all together so I decided to make molds and cast them. I got good mold material and a vacuum chamber to counter bubbles and made quite a few bases. Then GW came out with bikes for my GSC army and they had those oval bases that weren’t in the sector imperialis box and I tried using the 60mm mold and cutting it to the bike base size but it didn’t look as good as I would have liked so I ended up shelving that part of the project for a while. Then I made the plunge and bought a 3D printer and some mad lad made sector imperialis like bases for every useable base size and shape for free…. I honestly can’t think the artist that made those files enough. My GSC army has been a labor of love. All my other armies bases are different rural terrains. Dirt, I’ve painted a lot of dirt in a couple different ways. It’s always so refreshing to come back to my GSC and paint 41st millennium urban streets. It’s just a different feel.
I have to say, my favorite part of the whole video was your scientific approach to the mold compound. I've seen more than enough videos of mold newbies messing all up for doing it sloppily, it is good to see someone actually respecting the materials and taking their time to do it right.
I have no idea what I am watching, but After watching you make the base mold For your army. Something you can do to remove the bubbles is to use an old phone vibration at the bottom of your base molds. Simple yet effective. Hopefully, this will help.
Here's a great idea Jay for the inside of the guns. Instead of continuing the golden layer, it might help the weapon standout more from the model if the inner part of the barrel had a different color than the knife on the end. Maybe a neon teal glow or a light blue to match the color of their eyes, proving that the energy for the weapon comes straight from them.
If you pour in a little resin in the mould and then finger around the resin, this will line the mould to get rid of as many airbubbles. Also before you pour your resin you can dust your silicone with talc to help break the surface tension when you pour the resin
Don't forget to spray the models with teflon spray before pouring the silicone in. Then put it into ur fridge that is slowing down the reaction and more bubbles have the chance to get out, in case u don't use chemicals or a vacuum pod for it. And before u r pouring resin in the mold, use a brush and baby powder to increase the flow and to avoid bubbles in the corners u can see later in the resins edges.
The Miniature Hobbyist uses clear acrylic disks for his bases and I have to say they look great. With a clear base it looks like your minis are just standing on your terrain. It also adds to the realism of your game play. I think I’m going to order some for my minis as well.
You can get a vacuum chamber for pretty cheap, which letting your silicone and resin things in it can remove all bubbles from all of it, but you just gotta watch out for the product rising as you remove the air from it, but it works great for making flawless molds and casts, I use it for ring making
for the bubbles in the mould: try using a orbital sander or some other powertool that makes a ruble, lay it flat on its side next to the mould, the vibrations should wiggle out some more bubbles
While you're diving headfirst into your Darth Elves in SPAAAAAAAACE.... I got myself a unit of Tomb Kings Skeleton Chariots and a Mortuary Priest done; got a Necrosphinx, Warsphinx + Tomb King + 2 Tomb Guards, the starter box (building 12 Horse Archers), 16 extra archers so I can have detachments of archers for my main infantry formations, Settra the Imperishable and a Casket of Souls (metal thank god) coming in the mail. Found that skellies are super fast to paint and my purple and gold scheme with bronze weapons is a really warm Roman inspired paint scheme to offset the sea of white, bone and sepia wash that is the main feel of the army.
With my nighthaunt army I went pink and teal. I used Iridescent paint to make it pop more. This is my first time assembling and painting and so far I'm happy with how they look
A light dusting of talcum powder in the molds can help dissipate surface tension/wick in the resin so you get less bubbles. Love the look of your project!
Thank for that glue tip for the shoulders. I've got a Dark Elf blood bowl team that's all kitbashed from dark Eldar, WF Black Corsairs, and high Elf princes. I've tried greenstuff on the shoulder pads so many times and never been satisfied.
Hey Jay: If you want to deal with the bubbles then you should definitely switch to a slow cure resin, as the slow cure time alows for more time for the bubbles to escape. Also, if you have access to a presure pot, if you put the filled molds in there and presurize it to like, 30 psi, that'll push the resin into the molds and make for a better cast. That said pressure pots can be a tad pricey for just one project so you might just want to do the bare minimum of slow cure resin.
Use something flat like a cake spatula or even popsicle stick to swipe the excess resin off the top of the mold. That will cut down on the sanding time
Battle scars on the characters would be a fun, different thing to do. Chipped armor, busted gems, something like that. make them look battle worn. works with the pink color lore that you've created too.
Be sure to tap the mold after pouring to help the air escape the resin! You can do this by giving it a good Lil smack with a tool, like a screwdriver or something, or by gently lifting it about a quarter inch and dropping it over and over again. This will help with the air bubble issue!
The stippling really adds a lot to them and i'll admit i LOVE the pink color. For a special boost, welll...here goes nothing but use *actual* fluorescent paints, with some hidden glow in the dark freehand on the vehicles (or any glowing parts too). I'd also throw in some Dark Elves from the fantasy range to spice up the variety of models with kitbashes and give the army a specific unique theme. Something like them preffering the aesthethics of wood or bone where you can replace some metal elements with wooden ones (using balsa etc) or bone elements like the swords made of bone, armor being adorned with human bones as well etc. Alternatively, the basing can tell the story that they're trophy hunters and love hunting exotic things and this way you can bring in some more Xeno models as captured creatures hard-wired in their machines (like converting say an Ambul into their Talos Pain engine). Edit : oh and for the bubbles, grab yourself a cooking torch and blow them out once you poured them in. Alternatively, you can also try to use one of those paint shaker things to try to "push" and wobble the bubbles out. Plus its just a generally useful tool to have.
I think there is quite some kitbash/conversion fun to be had with the Talos/Cronos models... Maybe the Haemonculi added a little extra charm to them in their efforts to mock Slaanesh? Also the Harleyquins or Scourges poses are practically screaming for some cool custom bases! I absolutely love your spin on this challenge and am super excited to eventually see the results point-wise, as well as the awesome creative projects that are going to come out of this!
I love this, because I'm planning on starting d'eldar in about a month or so, and I love weird paint schemes. 80s obnoxious synthwave vibes are great on them.
You might really be onto something with these bases. If you ever want to upscale production, you could get a vibrating table for the resin curing process. It should help the resin settle into the corners and force all the air bubbles out, but you may need to switch to something that cures a bit slower.
Just One note about Cobalt keep Cases.. At least when I ordered them after you first mentioned them the Customer service was great but Shipping cost to canada was more expensive than I would have hoped as they didn't yet at the time have anything in place to mitigate that. This is why I own 8 Cases rather than the 6 I intended to own, It was more cost effective to order in groups of 4. So if you are canadian do keep this in mind. THough I will say I haven't checked in the intervening years if something has changed in that regard. I'm going to make my own Magnetic Storage for the remainder of my kill teams now that there are 16 teams in the house as apposed to the 6 we had when we ordered. I can then transfer teams into and out of the cobalt keep cases when going for gaming if desired.
For some reason Dark Eldar look great with either super dark colors or super-gaudy colors. Mine are all magenta.. and it really works from a visual standpoint. I combined magenta with dark almost black shadows to really make it pop and it really does. Your pink and teal the same. Someone long ago did a full teal colored army with brass accents and it was visually amazing.
Hey perfect timing on the Smooth-on products. Just started looking into them, buddy at the store was really pushing the convenience of quick set-up time and this confirms my "That's not always a benefit...I'd prefer not" stance. It's all about that Base
A bit of talcum powder (baby powder) spread around your mould with a brush helps ward away the bubbles. A de-gasser would ward them away better but there expensive, so if you use resen with a long cure time that can help a bit
Phwoar! Evil space elves flipping off the dark gods, attitude with colour from day one. Excellent. Fantastic bases, gives an impression of a nightmarish world.. so cool. Excited to see where this army project goes.
I am following you for some time, obviously because you are in my TOP 10 favorite TH-cam WH40K painters, but in the recent time i grew to love you and your style even more. Keep it, thanks for the content! ^-^
Something i do to reduce bubbles if i cast is take a metal ruler though anthing with an amount of flex would do, put that under a mat or something un which the silicon form stands and repeatedly pull the ruler down and release it to create small vibrations which in theory dislodge the air bubbles and brings them to the top and thusly creates less "bubbly" casts
for reducing bubbles in your resin pours.. there are plastic containers with snap on lids and a little vacuum pump to suck out the air.. this will suck out the bubbles.. D.
What about cold-casting the bases with graphite? Also if your going to be doing some kitbashing to customize your boi's, have you considered stealing the shoulder/collar pieces from some Necrons to give your Dark Eldar some 80's over the top punk glam vibes to go along with your teal and pink 90's to go cup vibes. Also maybe grab some slightly less chunky melee weapons from some of the Perry Miniatures kits to change the look of some of your other units.
Loving the energy of the new year new army throughout the community! Just someting about a new year feels refreshing to try other things in this hobby. Im looking forward to both you and Scotts take on this army and both of yalls styles going into this. Gonna be a fun ride along. I just started my leagues of votann army this month too in preperations for the new codex that I seriously hope comes out this year or early next year. They seriously need a rework and cant wait for that second wave of models. Give me dwarf mechs GW!!!
"These models are old-" Hell, I remember when they first came out. They looked amazing back then, especially compared to the 3rd edition models they were stuck with for so long. Can't believe it's been over a decade, pretty sure 2010 was the glorious 5th edition relaunch. And I agree on basic troops, fire warriors are what originally drew me to Tau back in 2006, the Dark Eldar troops are amazing, and I like the new Votann troops a lot, so much I got a small army of them piled up that I need to build.
Heat your silicone mold for a little bit in a toaster oven, That will make the resin flow better. Also this resin goes off quicker with more volume, so when you are mixing 8oz for example, that will start to cure quicker than mixing up 4oz - so try to work in smaller batches if you want time to poke it around. Quick cast poly resins like that are prone to bubbles without a pressure pot, also prone to absorbing moisture so try and use that resin within a few months from opening. If you switch to an epoxy resin, they usually take 3-6hrs to start curing and so you really have infinite time to ensure you don't have bubbles, obviously not 10 min though ha.
I like how he thought to move his finished models away from his casting resin, but not his cell phone, which was much closer to the casting resin to begin with.
It may not be new to some, but I am just starting in my resin journey and your style of measuring qty for the rubber will be a huge help in the future.
I just put together 5 scourges because my gf wanted to be enthusiastic about it on my behalf. DE are the most fiddely tiniest, most pain in the hole guys to build. Hats off to you sir
Fantastic stuff!! I hope to make models as dope and innovative as yours one day! For now, learning how to use an airbrush will suffice. Looking forward to seeing yours and Scott's armies grow, and perhaps a battlereport or two this year 👀
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Get amazing Display Cases for your minis! www.cobaltkeep.com/ Coupon Code: EOB10
Day 3 of asking EonsOfBattle to make a review of All quiet on the Martian front 2nd edition return of the tripods.
I really wish Cobalt Keep got a foot in the UK, I'd buy so much of their stuff.
Do you have a video showing how you make the black templar bases?
Day 4 of asking EonsOfBattle to make a review of All quiet on the Martian front 2nd edition return of the tripods.
The Scott outro was the icing on the cake that was Jay looking into the camera and saying "and I'm pretty hard right now"
I know! Almost had soda coming out my nose from that!
i LOLed pretty hard twice in a row
I also loved the dig about resin disaster (it was Scott's)
@@cartledge_uk lol yeah the "mysterious white liquid" that coated his Greyjoy army. We see you Scott!
I read your comment right before I watched the ending and I still laughed out loud cause I didn't see it coming,😂
…to…to what?? Don’t forget to WHAT?!! I MUST KNOW!!!
In the meantime, I guess I’ll just paint more mini’s while I wait for the answer in the next video…
PAINT, MORE, MINIESSSSS!!
I would've kept the bubbles in the bases. I am a rock collector, and when the black ink was put in, I thought it looked like a base of pure obsidian. When obsidian breaks, it is called a conchoidal fracture, which coincidently looks exactly like how resin breaks. I'd like to imagine if my troops are being shot on a pure obsidian surface, the shots would fracture that way.
Just paint up some blast marks and your troops will look like they took some fire from the enemy.
I had the same thought of the bases reminding me of obsidian. They came out great.
A few things when working with silicone and resin
1 - Pour it from farther away. Allowing the fluid to pour in a thin stream helps pop some bubbles on the way down
2 - The faster the curing time, the more bubbles you will get. If you get a resin that takes a bit longer to cure and vibrate the mold you will get a lot of bubbles to move to the surface (also gives you a lot more time to do the brush trick). But usually unless the resin is very thick, just by filling the molds slowly and letting it flow into the cracks on it's own already helps avoiding trapping air in there (pouring with the mold on an angle like you did also helps)
3 - Try to squeeze the container while pouring so it has a bit of an oval shape. Helps you pour a thinner stream as you don't need to tilt the cup so much causing a lot of resin to come out all at once, cause if you don't tilt it as much without squizing the cup the resin runs down the sides of the container.
4 - I noticed you used a PS plastic (polystyrene - number 6) cup. Some resins corrode this type of plastic and you end up with it all over your desk. So if you're gonna use a different resin look it up first cause you may need a PP plastic (polypropylene - number 5) cup.
And Wear Gloves
Brilliant advice.
I'm actually blown away with those custom bases.
Can't wait to see how you tackle the rest of this army.
I'm glad he's not just using corkboard again and he actually meant it when he said he was doing something different for the bases
@@klaykid117 although his cork bases look soooooooooo good
Goddamit the ending of the video had me on the floor 😂
It’s gonna be fun to see what Miniac’s reply will be…
@@joejoyce1027 I hope it's a fake Patreon segue. "That's right, our Patreon"
Same
As someone who casts resin regularly 3 things can help with the bubbles, 4 if you are willing to make new moulds
1 - using a resin with a longer cure time to give the bubbles longer to rise out
2 - heating the resin a little before mixing to thin the resin, which makes it easier for the bubbles to rise out, and it speeds up the curing too
3 - getting yourself a pressure pot to shrink any bubbles as small as possible
4 - if you make new moulds you could attach a thin straw on the problem parts to make vents for the air in the bubbles to escape from
Pressure would put gas into liquid, but maybe shrinking bubbles is easier than pulling them out in a vacuum. Vibrating the mould with a 20 USD dental cast tool would help as well.
To help getting the resin into all of the nooks and crevices, brush a very fine dusting of talc into the molds, it will help the resin flow into the details.
Good luck with the Army - Jenn approves of the choice in Drukhari - also cobalt keep are amazing. Also how did you get Scott to do such a good cosplay of you at the end?
Bubbles? No a prob, looks like newly formed lava rock to me. Well done sir. Got a lot of good ideas on how far to push some 3rd edition Dark Eldar Kabs in my collection.
I'd never been a fan of Dark Eldar. Your paint job on these has changed that! They look ace. Great job. Excited to watch this space.
I feel like Jay cast shade and love towards Scott in equal parts in this video. Might be my new favorite bromance.
Hands down my favorite EOB video to date! Beautiful minis, but the walk through your basing process was particularly ace. Very much looking forward to the next part of this project!🎉
You stopped the ending where I stop Scott’s videos. That made my continuity brain very happy.
Since your painting the "cloth" blue you have a the chance for some interesting free handings, painting some t'au inspired tattoos onto the "cloth"
I love this. I'm basically having two or technically three differently themed dark eldar forces and you gave me the idea of casting eldar ruin bases much like you have done here with the rocks.
Top tip for getting rid of bubbles from casting. Vibrate the mould and the air bubbles rise to the top. This works perfectly for plaster but I've not tried it with resin. 👍
Little tip. If you pick some macwax release spray, and a flat piece of acrylic the size of the mould. Spray the acrylic will the release, and when you pour your casting resin, squeeze the acrylic over the top of the mould and wet resin and weigh down. Once cured, removed the acrylic, the release agent will stop the resin sticking and it will give you perfectly flat back bases and means no sanding 😊 love the content
Try using a syringe with a fine nib to inject into the small orifaces. You can remove some air bubbles with the syringe by pulling it whilst blocking the hole to create a 'vacuum' so to speak.
you should use some vacuum to get the bubbles out. get a plastic container, cut a hole in the lid or side and attach a small vacuum. A tiny shop vac taped to the hole. put the mold in the container. pour the liquid in, pop lid on and turn vacuum on. It should suck any bubbles out.
Great job on the mold! You can dust baby powder into the mold and blow it out with canned air to cut down on bubbles. The powder helps break the surface tension of the slick silicone and the resin can flow better. Also using the tooth pick to get in the tight ares was a good call. When mixing the A & B of the resin I would suggest using a third mixing cup that is bigger. Then you'll have more room for mixing and can re-use your A & B cups. Keep up the good work!
Maybe you could drill in to the pointy bits then using that as a guide, use a diamond dremel to carve out a channel for the air to escape each protrusion? Possibly also inserting heat-shrink tubing (used for electronics) to reinforce the holes and stop the rubber from closing up. The pour of the moulds will then be a lot quicker overall, leaving time to finesse the pouring process overall? You could then pour a little in each, give them a quick stir with a disposable brush, before completely filling them all.
The easiest way to fix the bubbles is to use a different resin that hardens slower. Gives you more time to pour slowly and work the resin into those pointy bits.
17:14 , same.
They genuinely look incredible, LOVE the bases
If you're having issues with bubbles and getting your resin (or any other casting material) into the nooks and crannies of your moulds you can spray them with a mix of water and a rinse aid like Jet-Dry before casting to improve the flow.
Another option is to use vibration. You can attach a "personal massager" (one with a good rumble like a proper Magic Wand works best) to a small sheet of plywood and set your mould on it. Start with a lower setting and work your way up so you don't splash the resin.
A lot of people have given some advice on resin pours, but you can also get an...adult buzzbuzz toy...to vibrate those out. Something cheap with lots of potential power. Or an impact massager can work too.
I have multiple suggestions for the casting issue with the bases.
- Break/cut some of them around those areas. It should help avoid too many copies of the same base becoming noticeable.
- Leave some of the holes and maybe add more in places. Done right it should start to look like either igneous rock or possibly bullet holes.
- Use UV resin + opaque red pigment (or some other acceptable goop) to cover the hole and surround area to look like fresh gore.
- Coat underside of rocks around the holes to look like freaky alien moss. OSL for luminescence not required, but would make a few stand out more.
- Add more rocks or other elements to the cast bases to hide the holes.
- You could also change the resin you're using and or use large pins to make vents in the mold. Vents might make it harder to get casts out and reduce the lifespan of the molds though.
Half way through this video, it dawned on me that I use a super similar scheme for my Idoeneth. Dark Elves like pink and teal no matter what realm they're in.
Hi Jay, Do you use any airbrush thinner or airbrush flow improver at all when varnishing with the Vallejo Satin Mecha Varnish? If so what kind of ratios are you using? Thank you in advance!
I never thought I'd like a pink paint scheme but this one I really like. I especially like the bases you built for these. Together it all is outstanding.
Nice job Jay. I've done some casting myself. I keep a heatgun nearby when I pour the silicone. Platinum cure sets nearly instantly with heat...don't use on foam core. If you use durable walls the heat will stop any leaks. Also you could vent those points by spearing the mold with tiny brass pipe, just to make a hole, don't leave it in. You can razor blade from the vent to the opening. Make a crooked line so it seems together better. I'm really impressed how well you did on your first try.
Could always go for Stuart Semple's "Pinkest Pink" it is so wild, I have seen some cameras struggle when it is on screen lol.
I've done a lot of work with Resins and molds over the last 5 years. What might help you getting better casting is either degassing or painting the interior before you pour with the resin. One method to do the later is to drip a little resin into the mold then turn the molds so that it coats all the interior walls. Once done a tap with a torch (outside) will get the bubbles on the surface and you can do a second pour to fill the core.
I went down the base recasting a few years ago. I wanted to base my whole GSC army with the sector imperialis bases and I wanted to have a few sentinels and weapons teams but GW only sold 4 60mm bases in the set. I realized I would have to buy so many boxes I shelved the project for a while then GW discontinued the sector imperialis bases all together so I decided to make molds and cast them. I got good mold material and a vacuum chamber to counter bubbles and made quite a few bases. Then GW came out with bikes for my GSC army and they had those oval bases that weren’t in the sector imperialis box and I tried using the 60mm mold and cutting it to the bike base size but it didn’t look as good as I would have liked so I ended up shelving that part of the project for a while. Then I made the plunge and bought a 3D printer and some mad lad made sector imperialis like bases for every useable base size and shape for free…. I honestly can’t think the artist that made those files enough. My GSC army has been a labor of love. All my other armies bases are different rural terrains. Dirt, I’ve painted a lot of dirt in a couple different ways. It’s always so refreshing to come back to my GSC and paint 41st millennium urban streets. It’s just a different feel.
I have to say, my favorite part of the whole video was your scientific approach to the mold compound. I've seen more than enough videos of mold newbies messing all up for doing it sloppily, it is good to see someone actually respecting the materials and taking their time to do it right.
I have no idea what I am watching, but
After watching you make the base mold For your army.
Something you can do to remove the bubbles is to use an old phone vibration at the bottom of your base molds. Simple yet effective. Hopefully, this will help.
Here's a great idea Jay for the inside of the guns. Instead of continuing the golden layer, it might help the weapon standout more from the model if the inner part of the barrel had a different color than the knife on the end. Maybe a neon teal glow or a light blue to match the color of their eyes, proving that the energy for the weapon comes straight from them.
If you pour in a little resin in the mould and then finger around the resin, this will line the mould to get rid of as many airbubbles. Also before you pour your resin you can dust your silicone with talc to help break the surface tension when you pour the resin
Glad you're having fun with your new army, they look great. Can't wait to see them at the end of the year.
I love that you can always pick out the Agrax cabalite among his squad mates
Don't forget to spray the models with teflon spray before pouring the silicone in. Then put it into ur fridge that is slowing down the reaction and more bubbles have the chance to get out, in case u don't use chemicals or a vacuum pod for it. And before u r pouring resin in the mold, use a brush and baby powder to increase the flow and to avoid bubbles in the corners u can see later in the resins edges.
The Miniature Hobbyist uses clear acrylic disks for his bases and I have to say they look great. With a clear base it looks like your minis are just standing on your terrain. It also adds to the realism of your game play. I think I’m going to order some for my minis as well.
You can get a vacuum chamber for pretty cheap, which letting your silicone and resin things in it can remove all bubbles from all of it, but you just gotta watch out for the product rising as you remove the air from it, but it works great for making flawless molds and casts, I use it for ring making
I like how you make painting at a high quality look so easy but so good!
Looks great! I painted a squad of Kabalites for a friend in that one Cpt. Falcon color scheme. The white and pink one. The cool one.
Use a vibrating stand to hold the mold when u pour the resin in. That will shake the bubbles out as the resin dries. Good luck jay
for the bubbles in the mould: try using a orbital sander or some other powertool that makes a ruble, lay it flat on its side next to the mould, the vibrations should wiggle out some more bubbles
While you're diving headfirst into your Darth Elves in SPAAAAAAAACE.... I got myself a unit of Tomb Kings Skeleton Chariots and a Mortuary Priest done; got a Necrosphinx, Warsphinx + Tomb King + 2 Tomb Guards, the starter box (building 12 Horse Archers), 16 extra archers so I can have detachments of archers for my main infantry formations, Settra the Imperishable and a Casket of Souls (metal thank god) coming in the mail. Found that skellies are super fast to paint and my purple and gold scheme with bronze weapons is a really warm Roman inspired paint scheme to offset the sea of white, bone and sepia wash that is the main feel of the army.
Thanks for continuing to prove you are the best hobby youtuber, can't wait to see how both armies come out!
With my nighthaunt army I went pink and teal. I used Iridescent paint to make it pop more. This is my first time assembling and painting and so far I'm happy with how they look
A light dusting of talcum powder in the molds can help dissipate surface tension/wick in the resin so you get less bubbles.
Love the look of your project!
It seems so small, but I love those blue/pink neon grass tufts.
Thank for that glue tip for the shoulders. I've got a Dark Elf blood bowl team that's all kitbashed from dark Eldar, WF Black Corsairs, and high Elf princes. I've tried greenstuff on the shoulder pads so many times and never been satisfied.
I think it would be sooooo cool to see different colored tabards/cloth for different squads.
To get rid of the bubbles, best would be vibrating them for a 1 min or 2 and or using a preseire chamber
Hey Jay:
If you want to deal with the bubbles then you should definitely switch to a slow cure resin, as the slow cure time alows for more time for the bubbles to escape.
Also, if you have access to a presure pot, if you put the filled molds in there and presurize it to like, 30 psi, that'll push the resin into the molds and make for a better cast.
That said pressure pots can be a tad pricey for just one project so you might just want to do the bare minimum of slow cure resin.
I've been watching a load of your videos whilst painting up a 1800 pt stormcast army in a week, thanks so much for the inspiration!
Use something flat like a cake spatula or even popsicle stick to swipe the excess resin off the top of the mold. That will cut down on the sanding time
Battle scars on the characters would be a fun, different thing to do. Chipped armor, busted gems, something like that. make them look battle worn. works with the pink color lore that you've created too.
Be sure to tap the mold after pouring to help the air escape the resin! You can do this by giving it a good Lil smack with a tool, like a screwdriver or something, or by gently lifting it about a quarter inch and dropping it over and over again. This will help with the air bubble issue!
Markings on the mold - great idea, great implementation!
The stippling really adds a lot to them and i'll admit i LOVE the pink color. For a special boost, welll...here goes nothing but use *actual* fluorescent paints, with some hidden glow in the dark freehand on the vehicles (or any glowing parts too). I'd also throw in some Dark Elves from the fantasy range to spice up the variety of models with kitbashes and give the army a specific unique theme. Something like them preffering the aesthethics of wood or bone where you can replace some metal elements with wooden ones (using balsa etc) or bone elements like the swords made of bone, armor being adorned with human bones as well etc. Alternatively, the basing can tell the story that they're trophy hunters and love hunting exotic things and this way you can bring in some more Xeno models as captured creatures hard-wired in their machines (like converting say an Ambul into their Talos Pain engine).
Edit : oh and for the bubbles, grab yourself a cooking torch and blow them out once you poured them in. Alternatively, you can also try to use one of those paint shaker things to try to "push" and wobble the bubbles out. Plus its just a generally useful tool to have.
Great idea on fixing those shoulder pads with tape, baking soda, and super glue.
I think there is quite some kitbash/conversion fun to be had with the Talos/Cronos models... Maybe the Haemonculi added a little extra charm to them in their efforts to mock Slaanesh? Also the Harleyquins or Scourges poses are practically screaming for some cool custom bases!
I absolutely love your spin on this challenge and am super excited to eventually see the results point-wise, as well as the awesome creative projects that are going to come out of this!
I love this, because I'm planning on starting d'eldar in about a month or so, and I love weird paint schemes. 80s obnoxious synthwave vibes are great on them.
You might really be onto something with these bases. If you ever want to upscale production, you could get a vibrating table for the resin curing process. It should help the resin settle into the corners and force all the air bubbles out, but you may need to switch to something that cures a bit slower.
These look amazing! The pink and gold colour combo is actually awesome.
Just One note about Cobalt keep Cases.. At least when I ordered them after you first mentioned them the Customer service was great but Shipping cost to canada was more expensive than I would have hoped as they didn't yet at the time have anything in place to mitigate that. This is why I own 8 Cases rather than the 6 I intended to own, It was more cost effective to order in groups of 4. So if you are canadian do keep this in mind. THough I will say I haven't checked in the intervening years if something has changed in that regard.
I'm going to make my own Magnetic Storage for the remainder of my kill teams now that there are 16 teams in the house as apposed to the 6 we had when we ordered. I can then transfer teams into and out of the cobalt keep cases when going for gaming if desired.
For some reason Dark Eldar look great with either super dark colors or super-gaudy colors. Mine are all magenta.. and it really works from a visual standpoint. I combined magenta with dark almost black shadows to really make it pop and it really does. Your pink and teal the same. Someone long ago did a full teal colored army with brass accents and it was visually amazing.
Hey perfect timing on the Smooth-on products. Just started looking into them, buddy at the store was really pushing the convenience of quick set-up time and this confirms my "That's not always a benefit...I'd prefer not" stance. It's all about that Base
A bit of talcum powder (baby powder) spread around your mould with a brush helps ward away the bubbles.
A de-gasser would ward them away better but there expensive, so if you use resen with a long cure time that can help a bit
Phwoar! Evil space elves flipping off the dark gods, attitude with colour from day one. Excellent. Fantastic bases, gives an impression of a nightmarish world.. so cool.
Excited to see where this army project goes.
they do look awesome. perfect darkness with pink
I am following you for some time, obviously because you are in my TOP 10 favorite TH-cam WH40K painters, but in the recent time i grew to love you and your style even more. Keep it, thanks for the content! ^-^
Something i do to reduce bubbles if i cast is take a metal ruler though anthing with an amount of flex would do, put that under a mat or something un which the silicon form stands and repeatedly pull the ruler down and release it to create small vibrations which in theory dislodge the air bubbles and brings them to the top and thusly creates less "bubbly" casts
The collaboration I didn't know I needed until I saw the outro
Great vid thanks!
Toothpick bleed holes might help with those bubbles.
for reducing bubbles in your resin pours.. there are plastic containers with snap on lids and a little vacuum pump to suck out the air.. this will suck out the bubbles..
D.
What about cold-casting the bases with graphite? Also if your going to be doing some kitbashing to customize your boi's, have you considered stealing the shoulder/collar pieces from some Necrons to give your Dark Eldar some 80's over the top punk glam vibes to go along with your teal and pink 90's to go cup vibes. Also maybe grab some slightly less chunky melee weapons from some of the Perry Miniatures kits to change the look of some of your other units.
Loving the energy of the new year new army throughout the community! Just someting about a new year feels refreshing to try other things in this hobby. Im looking forward to both you and Scotts take on this army and both of yalls styles going into this. Gonna be a fun ride along. I just started my leagues of votann army this month too in preperations for the new codex that I seriously hope comes out this year or early next year. They seriously need a rework and cant wait for that second wave of models. Give me dwarf mechs GW!!!
"Scott has a leg up on me" oh Jay, lmao. Scott can't finish fucking anything.
If I may suggest to get rid of the bubbles, can you use a jigsaw on your table without a blade. The vibration might kick around some of the bubbles.
if you powder the mold, the resin will be drawn into the points. You can also try a pressure pot.
"These models are old-"
Hell, I remember when they first came out. They looked amazing back then, especially compared to the 3rd edition models they were stuck with for so long. Can't believe it's been over a decade, pretty sure 2010 was the glorious 5th edition relaunch.
And I agree on basic troops, fire warriors are what originally drew me to Tau back in 2006, the Dark Eldar troops are amazing, and I like the new Votann troops a lot, so much I got a small army of them piled up that I need to build.
Heat your silicone mold for a little bit in a toaster oven, That will make the resin flow better. Also this resin goes off quicker with more volume, so when you are mixing 8oz for example, that will start to cure quicker than mixing up 4oz - so try to work in smaller batches if you want time to poke it around. Quick cast poly resins like that are prone to bubbles without a pressure pot, also prone to absorbing moisture so try and use that resin within a few months from opening. If you switch to an epoxy resin, they usually take 3-6hrs to start curing and so you really have infinite time to ensure you don't have bubbles, obviously not 10 min though ha.
One of the best painting videos I’ve seen in about forever
Thank you
Amazing work on those bases. This is all fairly new to me, but that’s impressive.
Good work on the bases, I usually just print them but you produced something kinda wonderful.
I like how he thought to move his finished models away from his casting resin, but not his cell phone, which was much closer to the casting resin to begin with.
It may not be new to some, but I am just starting in my resin journey and your style of measuring qty for the rubber will be a huge help in the future.
You're braver than I with that mold, I would never have opened that before like 18 hours
I just put together 5 scourges because my gf wanted to be enthusiastic about it on my behalf. DE are the most fiddely tiniest, most pain in the hole guys to build. Hats off to you sir
Fantastic stuff!! I hope to make models as dope and innovative as yours one day! For now, learning how to use an airbrush will suffice.
Looking forward to seeing yours and Scott's armies grow, and perhaps a battlereport or two this year 👀
blown away by those bases! I love these. I'm going to steal that method if I can.
a good stir stick... just take some clippers to a empty sprue. clip it into a F shape then stick the sprue in the drill.
This is so awesome. The minis look fabulous, and the colab with Scott is just superb. The ending of this video was the cherry on the cake. \m/
Do the bases 80-90% done before casting, that way you can have blank spaces to ad stuff to, so the same skull is not on all the same bases
Using mica powder or talc powder works wonders for keeping bubbles out