I just finished: Changing the plugs, Cleaning the Throttle Body, and Cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor, and my Rough Idle is Cured !!! Thank You and God Bless
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. It helped me solve the rough idling and stalling problem I was having with my 2011 Canyon. The throttle body was pretty nasty but since I just bought this truck a few months ago, I went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, ignition coils, manifold air pressure sensor, and cleaned the MAF sensor. It is now running a smooth as my kayak in calm water. No stuttering, surging or any of that stuff. I really appreciate guys like you sharing their knowledge and their time to help do-it-yourselfers avoid paying shop labor rates for simple problems like this. Thank you!
Omg thank you so much. This was my grandads truck and he always wanted me to see what’s wrong with it and he passed last year and I thought I’d try to make him proud. Thank you so much
The only video I’ve been able to find that actually showed me how to remove the throttle body. Cleaned mine off and the reduced power light went off and my truck is running better than it has in years. The good ol know nothing electrician thanks you.
Thanks for the walk through. I did it exactly how you said to do it. Also changed my spark plugs while I was at it. Now my truck running smooth as silk. My wife and son both said it sounds like it's not going going to die/blow up now 😂.
This one is the best of these, as it actually shows the result. I did the same fix years ago to my H3, and now there is need for another cleaning as the surge is back. While the box is off, it is good to check the coil wires, as they can rub against the valve cover and ground blowing the fuse. No OBD-reader can tell what has happened, not even Tech2, as it blows the coil fuse. It took me a day to figure that out... At the same time one can also replace the spark plugs if they have more than 60000 miles on them.
Thanks brother!! I cleaned my throttle body and Mass Airflow Sensor today and the truck was so much easier to start, idles much better AND actually stays running without cutting out like it has been. The Reduced Power light has gone away also. I have a new PCV hose coming in tomorrow since mine was completely cracked and dry rotted. Thanks again and much appreciated!! 👍👍
Thanks, needed to know how to uncouple the vacumne line. Doing my throttle body next week can't find a throttle body position sensor to replace the stock one. Amazing what the sensor will do to the ECM on these trucks. You'll get everything from Check Stability System, Traction Control Faults, and Limp mode as well as Reduced power mode and it will combine with P0068 codes for MAP and MAF sensor malfunctions. The sensor itself is the black plastic box clipped on the end of the throttle body where the electrical wires plug in. Inside it is a plastic geared piece that moves with the action of the ECM controlled motor encased as part of the throttle body assembly. If you move the butterfly valve inside the throttle body it can unseat the gear in the sensor and throw the entire sensors operation off or break the gear inside the sensor. This is why you should never move the butterfly valve while cleaning the throttle body installed on the engine. By doing so you can rest assured you will have problems with the sensor later on. You can see the gearing and how the little clip lines up when assembled in this short video. It's from a how to for a Tahoe but the same idea. I wish someone made a throttle position sensor kit for a Colorado 3.7L th-cam.com/video/8Rbu6UtqpVg/w-d-xo.html
getting ready to it this way AGAIN @ 199K miles (04 original Sunburst Z71) I see a Guy Smith and others do the 1/3 through vapor hose, tank, oil, but this way really cleans it thoroughly but a pain in O arse...killer vid bruh!
Thanks for the tip it worked great after i cleaned everything I found that Walmart has a kit with both throttle body intake cleaner and maf cleaner and it's inexpensive for expensive
After performing the cleaning my truck did not require a re-learn procedure. Over time, carbon buildup can accumulate around the throttle plate, changing it’s “home” position. If the buildup occurs gradually, the PCM “learns” the new home position. But when your battery goes dead or you disconnect it to work on your vehicle, the PCM “forgets” the adapative home position. If you replace the throttle body, the PCM won’t know and will continue to use the adaptive settings as if the carbon buildup is still in place. If you don’t do a relearn procedure, the PCM will “hunt” for a new baseline idle. It will eventually learn it on its own, but it may take over a week of driving, during which time you will experience high and low idle speeds and possibly rough idle. Here’s the throttle body relearn procedure 1) Start the engine and let it idle in park for 3 minutes. During that period the idle may be higher idle than normal. 2) After 3 minutes, turn the engine off and leave it off for 60- seconds. 3) Start the engine again and let it idle in park for 3 minutes one more time. During these run periods you may see a check engine light. Scan for codes and if you get throttle body related codes, clear them. 4) If the idle speed is still off, drive the vehicle at speeds above 44-mph and operate several acceleration and deceleration cycles. Then repeat step #3 one last time. The idle should now be normal
Awesome video I followed every direction you pointed me to and I had my wife helped me out a hundred percent to and the ND showed how to blow on the hose while I had her suck on it and blow on it and I have zero leaks thanks good luck
I have a 2008 Colorado. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor today. I did it with the battery still connected. Put everything back together as it was prior to me taking it all apart. The relearn procedure I tried several times, and it doesn’t work. I did the 45+mph accelerations and decelerations, and none of it works. Don’t want to have to spend $200 for someone with a scan tool to relearn the idle which takes one minute. I even tried disconnecting the battery, and that also does not work. I used the right products also. Everything was put back correctly. No check engine light codes either.
I just acquired a 2004 chevy colorado with yhe 3.5 I5 cylinder, with only 92,000 miles on it. I have this very issue. Idles rough around 500 rpm and when throttling down, it dips below 500 and vibrates. Going to give this a shot. The truck still looks like the day it rolled off the lot, they took such great care of it. Really appreciate the video for the help. I also have a weird issue, I keep smelling a weird burning smell coming through the exhaust vents, off and on. Any idea on what it may be? Transmission is working fine, someone Said the torque converter, but the tranny is great in it.
Not all of the time, sometimes you get lucky. I found that if i leave the battery connected and perform the cleaning to the mass airflow sensor and the throttle body i don't need to perform the re-learning/programming procedure. But there is a simple way to perform the relearn procedure. Please look in the video description below for the details.
Unfortunately, we've tried replacing the spark plugs, ignition coils, and cleaning the TB, but our truck still idles fairly rough at low RPMs. We're going to try replacing the PCV hose, and then cleaning the MAF. Here's hoping one of those works, because I'm losing my mind with the truck. 🤬
So what if none of this helps with rough idle, dying when warmed up and coming to a stop, and throttle not making the vehicle accelerate properly. I've done plugs, mas, and fuel filter. It's not throwing any codes.
If you've done all of that. The next area of inspection could be internally inside your engine. But at this point it can get very expensive and time consuming to do. Because I can't physically inspect your vehicle myself I recomend taking your vehicle in for inspection to a GM professional. But at least you did what you did and eliminated a lot of variables.
How easy is it to replace my fuel pressure gauge? My air intake has gas inside of it. I replace my spark plugs and discovered the excess fuel in my intake.
Could you be reffering to your fuel pressure regulator? If so, this will help. It shows location and removal. www.355nation.net/forum/how-performance-maintenance/51256-how-install-fuel-pressure-regulator.html
@@vipercarice yes.. I stated gauge instead of regulator.. I do need to replace it. My intake had almost a liter of gasoline in it. I am fortunate I haven't been incinerated in my truck. Does anyone know if this was a recall by GM? I have no codes in my trucks computer..
Thanks for the video! I accidentally broke my hose but that was my fault... I have no clue how to replace it either does anyone know anything that will help me?
Hey there! Alas, the rough idle and stalling is back after just a few weeks. It also feels like it’s misfiring when cruising on highway. Sometimes, it acts like it wants to die. Shudders and jerks when maneuvering out of a parking space with a/c off. Any additional ideas? In my last post I told you I replaced all four spark plugs, ignition coils, the MAP sensor, removed and degunked the throttle body and cleaned the mass air flow sensor. I went to the parts store to get a can of Seafoam and a new fuel filter. They tell me the fuel filter is not a serviceable part? That doesn’t seem right. Any other thoughts as to why after three weeks and a couple of tanks of brand name fuel and it’s acting up again? No CEL.
After replacing everything you mentioned it sounds like it might be something else. Possibly something internally with the engine. Without me actually looking at it myself it's hard to diagnose it for you. Have you inspected the vacuum hose that goes to the intake box? Another possible outcome could be that you need your throttle body to be re-learned.
That funky "S" shaped vent hose will get soft and rotten and leak with time, most parts places don't carry it so you could be down for days. Good idea to order one off AMZ or Fleabay ahead of time to swap out when needed. That hose needs to be kinda firm, you cant really get your fingers on it if it's rotten. Oh, and never force the throttle body open!
Hey bro i have a 2005 Chevy Colorado . Soo if I clean the throttle body and clean the sensor how do I make the check engine light come off ? Or do I have to take it to a mechanic ? Do you think it’s worth paying ? Or a DIY thing ? Thanks
If you go to AutoZone they can check the codes on your truck and see if it's related to your rough idle. Plus they can also clear it for you depending on what the scanners says. Plus it's free. But if you don't feel confident working on your own vehicle it is always advised to take it to a Certified Professional Mechanic.
ProjectCorona thanks for the reply . I went to autozone and scanned it and the code P0506 , P0106 came on . And I called the mechanics and their making a bigger deal that what the TH-cam videos show me . I just don’t wana get ripped off for a simple DIY thing.
If you have the basic tools to perform the cleaning and feel confident to tackle the job on I would recommend doing it yourself first. Just remember that this is an easy way to determine if you have a dirty throttle body or possibly a loose or cracked vacuum hose. P0106 OBD-II Trouble Code: Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) Barometric Pressure Sensor Electric Circuit Output Range and Performance Problem P0106 Trouble code definition Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) Barometric Pressure Sensor Electric Circuit Output Range and Performance Problem What the P0106 code means P0106 is the general code for a problem with the MAP circuit having problem of incorrect voltage output range or an issue with engine performance. The MAP sensor is an integral part of the fuel injection system and provides signals to the Engune Control Unit (ECU) for smooth operation and good fuel economy along with proper performance and power. What causes the P0106 code? The MAP circuit for range and performance problem may have several causes: The source of the problem is that the MAP sensor range voltage output is incorrect and out of the programmed input required by the ECU. The most common problem is an air intake system vacuum or intake hose being loose, cracked, or missing it’s plastic fittings and clamps. The wiring or MAP sensor may be bad, brittle, cracked, have a bad connection, or could be too close to the higher voltage consumption components, especially alternators, ignition wires, etc. A poor electrical ground can cause problems also. The sensor itself may simply be operating out of range from fatigue in it’s internal components. MAP sensors must operate within specific ranges to send correct signals for the ECU to coordinate with the throttle position sensor and adjust correctly for proper engine operation. If the engine is not in good condition, is missing, has poor fuel pressure, or there is an internal issue with the engine like a burned valve, it can prevent the MAP sensor from getting a correct output. The ECU could also be bad but that is rare. What are the symptoms of the P0106 code? P0106 code will be generally preceded by the Check Engine Light coming on the dashboard display. The vehicle in most cases will not run well, idle poorly, accelerate erratically, run rich, and backfire because the MAP sensor and throttle position sensor will not operate together properly.
Nice! Gonna try this in the next couple days. My friends Canyon is wanting to stall when coming to a stop...but he says it gets better once the truck warms up. This make any sense? Also, i thought we werent allowed to physically move the throttle plate on electronically controlled throttle bodys?
Yes you can move it when you clean it. There is a learning procedure that you will have to do. Here’s the throttle body relearn procedure 1) Start the engine and let it idle in park for 3 minutes. During that period the idle may be higher idle than normal. 2) After 3 minutes, turn the engine off and leave it off for 60- seconds. 3) Start the engine again and let it idle in park for 3 minutes one more time. During these run periods you may see a check engine light. Scan for codes and if you get throttle body related codes, clear them. 4) If the idle speed is still off, drive the vehicle at speeds above 44-mph and operate several acceleration and deceleration cycles. Then repeat step #3 one last time. The idle should now be normal
@@vipercarice Hey wanted to let you know i removed and cleaned my friends throttle body. He says his truck has never ran this good! He bought it used quite a few yes back. Also i did not even perform the relearn procedure. Just wanted to try it the way it was!
Do not move the butterfly with your hand like that, it will screw up the sensor and you'll get a code. Did it, made the expensive mistake. And there are other videos on here about it.
I understand what you are saying Mark and that is a possibility, but in all of my years as a Auto Technician I have yet to break one or cause a fault in the the throttle body sensor. That said there will always be a risk when working on vehicles and nothing is ever guaranteed to work even if you use a NEW part. I'm sorry you had a faulty sensor that went out when you worked on your car. Could have been that it was on its last leg. Best regards: ProjectCorona
When the MAF sensor goes BAD, you'll get the Check Engine Light to shine nice and bright on your instrument cluster. You'll also see one or several of the following symptoms of a BAD MAF sensor: Diagnostic Trouble Codes: P0101: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor System Performance P0102: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Frequency. P0103: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Frequency. BAD gas mileage. Rough idle. Lack of power on acceleration. Black smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Won't pass the emissions test. It's rare for the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor to go BAD and not leave a diagnostic trouble code but sometimes you'll get the MAF Trouble Code and the MAF is good. So, it's always a good idea to test it.
Damn! I just did the spark plugs on my 08 Colordao that has 268,00+ miles on it and the throttle body was a lot cleaner looking then that thing is. lol I don't have the rough idling but it does seem to be lacking in power. I think it's a fuel problem for sure but that's about all I know right now.
My grandfather has a 06 I think but his honestly runs so bad especially in the rain. It has multiple speaker problems and the right door only works 50% of the time Chevy in my opinion kinda screwed it up a bit
Check the harness that runs to the door. When you open the door you will see a rubber boot. Remove that to expose the wire harness. Alot of times it will get pinched and eventually splice into. Same for the rear
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I just finished: Changing the plugs, Cleaning the Throttle Body, and Cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor, and my Rough Idle is Cured !!! Thank You and God Bless
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. It helped me solve the rough idling and stalling problem I was having with my 2011 Canyon. The throttle body was pretty nasty but since I just bought this truck a few months ago, I went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, ignition coils, manifold air pressure sensor, and cleaned the MAF sensor. It is now running a smooth as my kayak in calm water. No stuttering, surging or any of that stuff.
I really appreciate guys like you sharing their knowledge and their time to help do-it-yourselfers avoid paying shop labor rates for simple problems like this. Thank you!
It makes me happy to know that my video helped you out. Thank you for your kind words I really appreciate it 😎 👍
Omg thank you so much. This was my grandads truck and he always wanted me to see what’s wrong with it and he passed last year and I thought I’d try to make him proud. Thank you so much
I'm sorry about your grandad, I'm glad my video was able to help you.
I'm sorry about your grandad, I'm glad my video was able to help you.
The only video I’ve been able to find that actually showed me how to remove the throttle body. Cleaned mine off and the reduced power light went off and my truck is running better than it has in years. The good ol know nothing electrician thanks you.
I'm glad I was able to help. 👍
Decided I’d suffered the rough idle and shut offs too long. Your vid I watched while under the hood. Thanks for the content. Helped 100%
Happy i was able to help 👍
I am PRAYING this will Help mine!!!!
Thanks for the walk through. I did it exactly how you said to do it. Also changed my spark plugs while I was at it. Now my truck running smooth as silk. My wife and son both said it sounds like it's not going going to die/blow up now 😂.
LOL I'm glad my video was able to help.
Thanks for the step by step video. Had the check engine light cleared and now it's running like a new truck.
This one is the best of these, as it actually shows the result. I did the same fix years ago to my H3, and now there is need for another cleaning as the surge is back. While the box is off, it is good to check the coil wires, as they can rub against the valve cover and ground blowing the fuse. No OBD-reader can tell what has happened, not even Tech2, as it blows the coil fuse. It took me a day to figure that out... At the same time one can also replace the spark plugs if they have more than 60000 miles on them.
Thanks brother!! I cleaned my throttle body and Mass Airflow Sensor today and the truck was so much easier to start, idles much better AND actually stays running without cutting out like it has been. The Reduced Power light has gone away also. I have a new PCV hose coming in tomorrow since mine was completely cracked and dry rotted. Thanks again and much appreciated!! 👍👍
Happy i could help 😎 👍
thanks for this video - I just did the same thing to my 2007 95000 miles and it fixed the bad idle 100 %
Thanks for the video, 2008 Colorado is now running like a champ!
Happy i was able to help 👍
Just did this with my 06 Colorado... Runs great now ! Thanks for the advise. from Gilbert Az.
Glad I was able to help 👍
Thanks Dude. I needed a refresher on this. Rough idle issues are now gone!
Happy i could help 👍
Thanks, needed to know how to uncouple the vacumne line. Doing my throttle body next week can't find a throttle body position sensor to replace the stock one. Amazing what the sensor will do to the ECM on these trucks. You'll get everything from Check Stability System, Traction Control Faults, and Limp mode as well as Reduced power mode and it will combine with P0068 codes for MAP and MAF sensor malfunctions. The sensor itself is the black plastic box clipped on the end of the throttle body where the electrical wires plug in. Inside it is a plastic geared piece that moves with the action of the ECM controlled motor encased as part of the throttle body assembly. If you move the butterfly valve inside the throttle body it can unseat the gear in the sensor and throw the entire sensors operation off or break the gear inside the sensor. This is why you should never move the butterfly valve while cleaning the throttle body installed on the engine. By doing so you can rest assured you will have problems with the sensor later on. You can see the gearing and how the little clip lines up when assembled in this short video. It's from a how to for a Tahoe but the same idea. I wish someone made a throttle position sensor kit for a Colorado 3.7L th-cam.com/video/8Rbu6UtqpVg/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much. I'm trying to sell my 04 Colorado and it had the idling issue but after following this video it seems I've fixed that issue 😊
getting ready to it this way AGAIN @ 199K miles (04 original Sunburst Z71) I see a Guy Smith and others do the 1/3 through vapor hose, tank, oil, but this way really cleans it thoroughly but a pain in O arse...killer vid bruh!
Literally the most helpful video out here dawg you a real one
Finally no bs, a detailed video, thanks buddy
Great job....right to the point....some people tell you all about their life ...nice to watch a video and get to fixing!👍👍👍👊👊👊💯
Thanks for the tip it worked great after i cleaned everything I found that Walmart has a kit with both throttle body intake cleaner and maf cleaner and it's inexpensive for expensive
I'm glad I was able to help! 👍
And thank you for the tip on getting inexpensive throttle body and maf cleaner.
Thanks! Just got done doing this to my 05- 4 cylinder, no more rough idle.
Glad I was able to help 👍
After performing the cleaning my truck did not require a re-learn procedure.
Over time, carbon buildup can accumulate around the throttle plate, changing it’s “home” position. If the buildup occurs gradually, the PCM “learns” the new home position. But when your battery goes dead or you disconnect it to work on your vehicle, the PCM “forgets” the adapative home position. If you replace the throttle body, the PCM won’t know and will continue to use the adaptive settings as if the carbon buildup is still in place. If you don’t do a relearn procedure, the PCM will “hunt” for a new baseline idle. It will eventually learn it on its own, but it may take over a week of driving, during which time you will experience high and low idle speeds and possibly rough idle.
Here’s the throttle body relearn procedure
1) Start the engine and let it idle in park for 3 minutes. During that period the idle may be higher idle than normal.
2) After 3 minutes, turn the engine off and leave it off for 60- seconds.
3) Start the engine again and let it idle in park for 3 minutes one more time. During these run periods you may see a check engine light. Scan for codes and if you get throttle body related codes, clear them.
4) If the idle speed is still off, drive the vehicle at speeds above 44-mph and operate several acceleration and deceleration cycles. Then repeat step #3 one last time.
The idle should now be normal
Got my little truck running like a champ 🏆 thanks carnal
Glad I was able to help you out compa
I thank you so much! Followed everything like it was on the video and got my truck running like brand new!
Happy you were able to get your truck up and running 👍
This is definitely the best video for this fix thank you for this!
Glad I could help 😎 👍
1st gen Colorados are great little simplistic trucks! Nice tutorial.
Yes they are and thank you 👍
Awesome video I followed every direction you pointed me to and I had my wife helped me out a hundred percent to and the ND showed how to blow on the hose while I had her suck on it and blow on it and I have zero leaks thanks good luck
😊 thanks. I been having a on. Off problem with my 2007. 4 cylinder. Sometimes it wont idel an run ruff and try to stall. Driving me nuts lol
Excellent walk through!
Thank you for making this video 👍🏼👍🏼 100% very HELPFUL.
Happy i was able to help 👍
What is the description/part # of the molded hose at 11:58 ? Mine is split and I can't find the part listed.
I have a 2008 Colorado. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor today. I did it with the battery still connected. Put everything back together as it was prior to me taking it all apart. The relearn procedure I tried several times, and it doesn’t work. I did the 45+mph accelerations and decelerations, and none of it works. Don’t want to have to spend $200 for someone with a scan tool to relearn the idle which takes one minute. I even tried disconnecting the battery, and that also does not work. I used the right products also. Everything was put back correctly. No check engine light codes either.
would that cause a misfire aswell
As far as the removing of the throttle body, you don't have to. Try the seafoam top engine cleaner and lube.
Super helpful and explanatory thanks
Excellent instructions. Thank you!
Happy i was able to help 👍
So worked...This is a legit fix
Lol thank you for this vid. You seriously made my life a little easier😂
Glad I could help 👍
Exactly what I needed to know thank you friend
Can this problem also cause a skip with acceleration and a p0300 code?
How was it to change over to battery cable ends
What would be the downfall of just getting a new TB instead of cleaning it?
Will it work too if it rough idles when you only have less quarter of tank filled
Good Info! Thank you for sharing
I just acquired a 2004 chevy colorado with yhe 3.5 I5 cylinder, with only 92,000 miles on it. I have this very issue. Idles rough around 500 rpm and when throttling down, it dips below 500 and vibrates. Going to give this a shot. The truck still looks like the day it rolled off the lot, they took such great care of it. Really appreciate the video for the help. I also have a weird issue, I keep smelling a weird burning smell coming through the exhaust vents, off and on. Any idea on what it may be? Transmission is working fine, someone Said the torque converter, but the tranny is great in it.
Did you find out what was wrong with it? Sounds like I'm in the same situation.
Thanks This is exactly my issue hopefully this works gonna try sea foam first though
Great 1 handed video!
Thx
No problem. Glad I could help. Doing things one handed was indeed challenging. 👍
Is it true you gota reprogram the throttle body ? I have a 2005 Chevy Colorado
Not all of the time, sometimes you get lucky. I found that if i leave the battery connected and perform the cleaning to the mass airflow sensor and the throttle body i don't need to perform the re-learning/programming procedure. But there is a simple way to perform the relearn procedure. Please look in the video description below for the details.
Unfortunately, we've tried replacing the spark plugs, ignition coils, and cleaning the TB, but our truck still idles fairly rough at low RPMs. We're going to try replacing the PCV hose, and then cleaning the MAF. Here's hoping one of those works, because I'm losing my mind with the truck. 🤬
Does it throw an engine code? If so what number
would this be the same on the vortec 3500.... 2005 colorado..but has the 5 cylinder engine?
The cleaning proccess should be the same, but there might be some extra stuff to remove on the 5 cylinder one.
ProjectCorona great.. thanks
Just did it on my 05 Colorado - pretty much spot on - thanks for the video!
Glad I could help 👍
Perfect did this exact thing fixed it!
Glad I could help 👍
So what if none of this helps with rough idle, dying when warmed up and coming to a stop, and throttle not making the vehicle accelerate properly.
I've done plugs, mas, and fuel filter.
It's not throwing any codes.
If you've done all of that. The next area of inspection could be internally inside your engine. But at this point it can get very expensive and time consuming to do. Because I can't physically inspect your vehicle myself I recomend taking your vehicle in for inspection to a GM professional.
But at least you did what you did and eliminated a lot of variables.
Thanks worked good
How easy is it to replace my fuel pressure gauge? My air intake has gas inside of it. I replace my spark plugs and discovered the excess fuel in my intake.
Could you be reffering to your fuel pressure regulator? If so, this will help.
It shows location and removal.
www.355nation.net/forum/how-performance-maintenance/51256-how-install-fuel-pressure-regulator.html
A symptom of a bad fuel pressure regulator is that the diaphram inside goes bad and causes fuel to leak past and directly into your intake box.
@@vipercarice yes.. I stated gauge instead of regulator.. I do need to replace it. My intake had almost a liter of gasoline in it. I am fortunate I haven't been incinerated in my truck. Does anyone know if this was a recall by GM? I have no codes in my trucks computer..
Just looked it up and I don't see anything about the fuel pressure regulator.
@@vipercarice Thank you very much with helping me resolve this dangerous situation with my Chevy.
Thanks for the video! I accidentally broke my hose but that was my fault... I have no clue how to replace it either does anyone know anything that will help me?
I have a 2004 Chevy colorado
Hey there! Alas, the rough idle and stalling is back after just a few weeks. It also feels like it’s misfiring when cruising on highway. Sometimes, it acts like it wants to die. Shudders and jerks when maneuvering out of a parking space with a/c off. Any additional ideas? In my last post I told you I replaced all four spark plugs, ignition coils, the MAP sensor, removed and degunked the throttle body and cleaned the mass air flow sensor. I went to the parts store to get a can of Seafoam and a new fuel filter. They tell me the fuel filter is not a serviceable part? That doesn’t seem right. Any other thoughts as to why after three weeks and a couple of tanks of brand name fuel and it’s acting up again? No CEL.
After replacing everything you mentioned it sounds like it might be something else. Possibly something internally with the engine. Without me actually looking at it myself it's hard to diagnose it for you.
Have you inspected the vacuum hose that goes to the intake box?
Another possible outcome could be that you need your throttle body to be re-learned.
This sounds exactly like my problem. Did you figure out what’s wrong?
Egr valve?
That funky "S" shaped vent hose will get soft and rotten and leak with time, most parts places don't carry it so you could be down for days. Good idea to order one off AMZ or Fleabay ahead of time to swap out when needed. That hose needs to be kinda firm, you cant really get your fingers on it if it's rotten. Oh, and never force the throttle body open!
Mine does this, thanks will do what you did
Glad I could be of assistance.
Hey bro i have a 2005 Chevy Colorado . Soo if I clean the throttle body and clean the sensor how do I make the check engine light come off ? Or do I have to take it to a mechanic ? Do you think it’s worth paying ? Or a DIY thing ? Thanks
If you go to AutoZone they can check the codes on your truck and see if it's related to your rough idle. Plus they can also clear it for you depending on what the scanners says. Plus it's free.
But if you don't feel confident working on your own vehicle it is always advised to take it to a Certified Professional Mechanic.
ProjectCorona thanks for the reply . I went to autozone and scanned it and the code P0506 , P0106 came on . And I called the mechanics and their making a bigger deal that what the TH-cam videos show me . I just don’t wana get ripped off for a simple DIY thing.
If you have the basic tools to perform the cleaning and feel confident to tackle the job on I would recommend doing it yourself first. Just remember that this is an easy way to determine if you have a dirty throttle body or possibly a loose or cracked vacuum hose.
P0106 OBD-II Trouble Code: Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) Barometric Pressure Sensor Electric Circuit Output Range and Performance Problem
P0106 Trouble code definition
Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) Barometric Pressure Sensor Electric Circuit Output Range and Performance Problem
What the P0106 code means
P0106 is the general code for a problem with the MAP circuit having problem of incorrect voltage output range or an issue with engine performance. The MAP sensor is an integral part of the fuel injection system and provides signals to the Engune Control Unit (ECU) for smooth operation and good fuel economy along with proper performance and power.
What causes the P0106 code?
The MAP circuit for range and performance problem may have several causes:
The source of the problem is that the MAP sensor range voltage output is incorrect and out of the programmed input required by the ECU.
The most common problem is an air intake system vacuum or intake hose being loose, cracked, or missing it’s plastic fittings and clamps.
The wiring or MAP sensor may be bad, brittle, cracked, have a bad connection, or could be too close to the higher voltage consumption components, especially alternators, ignition wires, etc. A poor electrical ground can cause problems also.
The sensor itself may simply be operating out of range from fatigue in it’s internal components.
MAP sensors must operate within specific ranges to send correct signals for the ECU to coordinate with the throttle position sensor and adjust correctly for proper engine operation.
If the engine is not in good condition, is missing, has poor fuel pressure, or there is an internal issue with the engine like a burned valve, it can prevent the MAP sensor from getting a correct output.
The ECU could also be bad but that is rare.
What are the symptoms of the P0106 code?
P0106 code will be generally preceded by the Check Engine Light coming on the dashboard display. The vehicle in most cases will not run well, idle poorly, accelerate erratically, run rich, and backfire because the MAP sensor and throttle position sensor will not operate together properly.
ProjectCorona hey I was told at autozone to clean out the throttle and reset the sensor . Do you think that’s is ?
My 08 Canyon has a light vibration while at idle. Will this help with that?
It should
You should check your oricice for your pcv system
it worked!
Nice! Gonna try this in the next couple days. My friends Canyon is wanting to stall when coming to a stop...but he says it gets better once the truck warms up. This make any sense?
Also, i thought we werent allowed to physically move the throttle plate on electronically controlled throttle bodys?
Yes you can move it when you clean it. There is a learning procedure that you will have to do.
Here’s the throttle body relearn procedure
1) Start the engine and let it idle in park for 3 minutes. During that period the idle may be higher idle than normal.
2) After 3 minutes, turn the engine off and leave it off for 60- seconds.
3) Start the engine again and let it idle in park for 3 minutes one more time. During these run periods you may see a check engine light. Scan for codes and if you get throttle body related codes, clear them.
4) If the idle speed is still off, drive the vehicle at speeds above 44-mph and operate several acceleration and deceleration cycles. Then repeat step #3 one last time.
The idle should now be normal
@@vipercarice
Ok, thank you so much for the reply!
Glad I could help 👍
@@vipercarice
Hey wanted to let you know i removed and cleaned my friends throttle body. He says his truck has never ran this good! He bought it used quite a few yes back. Also i did not even perform the relearn procedure. Just wanted to try it the way it was!
I'm happy it all worked out.
I owe you a beer!
I'll take a Corona lol. I'm glad I was able to help 👍
You are a great help thank you bro
Glad I could help. 👍
Nice!
Thank you
I did this and now my engine light is flashing and I still have throttle problems
A pcm update helps too
hahahhhh...one-hander from the get...hold'n that camera and work'n that wrench like a boss...yeah bruh!
Life struggles lol
Do not move the butterfly with your hand like that, it will screw up the sensor and you'll get a code. Did it, made the expensive mistake. And there are other videos on here about it.
I understand what you are saying Mark and that is a possibility, but in all of my years as a Auto Technician I have yet to break one or cause a fault in the the throttle body sensor. That said there will always be a risk when working on vehicles and nothing is ever guaranteed to work even if you use a NEW part.
I'm sorry you had a faulty sensor that went out when you worked on your car. Could have been that it was on its last leg.
Best regards: ProjectCorona
Escanie mi colorado y me tiro ese codigo , espero poder arrglarlo viendo tu video
Did you just tell me to suck on my own hose??? J/K, but seriously...my hose has dry rotted....guess I'm off to the doc..er parts house! Thanks
lol no problem. Glad I could help 😎 👍
Tomorrow morning lm gonna desmadra my Colorado
Thx bro
No problem. Glad I could help.
Still didn't solve my problem I think it's the MaF sensor.
When the MAF sensor goes BAD, you'll get the Check Engine Light to shine nice and bright on your instrument cluster.
You'll also see one or several of the following symptoms of a BAD MAF sensor:
Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
P0101: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor System Performance
P0102: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Frequency.
P0103: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Frequency.
BAD gas mileage.
Rough idle.
Lack of power on acceleration.
Black smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
Won't pass the emissions test.
It's rare for the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor to go BAD and not leave a diagnostic trouble code but sometimes you'll get the MAF Trouble Code and the MAF is good. So, it's always a good idea to test it.
Damn! I just did the spark plugs on my 08 Colordao that has 268,00+ miles on it and the throttle body was a lot cleaner looking then that thing is. lol I don't have the rough idling but it does seem to be lacking in power. I think it's a fuel problem for sure but that's about all I know right now.
My grandfather has a 06 I think but his honestly runs so bad especially in the rain. It has multiple speaker problems and the right door only works 50% of the time Chevy in my opinion kinda screwed it up a bit
Check the harness that runs to the door. When you open the door you will see a rubber boot. Remove that to expose the wire harness. Alot of times it will get pinched and eventually splice into. Same for the rear
Joshua Deacon ok good to know
@@keeganfoster1792 lmk what u find out. If u still have problems hmu and I'll help.
Anybody else trying to fix P0106?
You don’t need to remove the throttle body. Just clean the throttle valve, it will save you some time.
Thank you