Thanks for the video, I wouldn’t have been able to change the brakes without this one! Just to add, the bolt size to pop the rotors off is M8. I didn’t have one, had to go buy a couple.
@@boostedmaniac I don’t think 125 is correct. I think the front is 77ft-lbs for bracket, 24ft-lbs for shoe and the wheel for all is 76. Rear is 58ft-lbs for bracket and 24ft-lbs again for shoe.
I believe you put the grease on the bottom side of the hardware clip instead of the top side where the pad slides thru it, so the sliding pad has no lubricant. Big mistake if I saw correctly. No need for grease to be underneath the hardware clip, might even lessen the bracket's hold on the hardware clip.
It is not a mistake actually, I saw a lot of people to that in professional shops. I put grease on both sides of that metal shim to stop brakes from making any squealing noises in the future.
I was going to ask the same thing Also noted did not reinstall the springs that move the brake pads away from the rotor when brakes are no longer being applied Good job otherwise glad you saved some $ and are helping others to do the same
@@nazarettos6987 But think about it, the hardware piece does not slide in the bracket, it is fixed there, but the pad piece has to slide in the hardware piece, so where should the grease be? On the sliding surfaces, I would say. And I did not see any lubricant/grease applied there. Also, I see some people suggest not forcing the fluid back into the reservoir, but instead, cracking the bleeder screw and pushing it out there, into a container with some fluid in the container, and a hose from the bleeder screw going into and below the fluid in the container. Bleeding probably best, afterward, but that would just be a nice extra flush. A little more effort but less chance of dirty fluid getting into the reservoir, that might cause problems later, with the fluid return valve plugging, causing brakes to lock up. Had it happen on the road, once, 300 miles from home.
I didn't need rear rotors or brakes replaced at that timem. It's the same principle like tthe front. Remove caliper guide bolts and move caliper out,replace pads and put caliper bolts back l,done. Don't forget to compress the caliper.
When your brake pads wear uneven normally the caliper is bad. I hope that everything still working good on your vehicle. Nice video though. Thank you very much.
you have to install new brake hardware, those metal plates. Also what I like to do is to clean the surface where brake hardware goes. You can also add some brake caliper grease to the back of your brake pads and caliper guiding bolts.
Thanks for the video. I just did mine. Parts for front brakes and rotors from Toyota in Canada. $333. I asked how much for them to do all 4 corners... $1,100. $700. for parts, plus $400. for labour.
@@libaowang5675 Yes, the repair shops often charges you the retail price for parts even though they pay much less than retail. Then, of course they charge you for time and labor. I paid $550 for the fronts to be done about5 years ago. Since then, I do the work myself. There is an small auto parts store near my house that "turns" (smooths) the rotors for $10 each so they can be reused.
Also I know if I do it myself i do it better. In my video you can see that i even properly brushed off rust and lubricated at proper contact points. Parts that i ordered were good quality and no cheapo..
Спасибо, заморский чувак!
Tengo un Toyota venza 2013 4 cilindros y quiero hacerle el mismo trabajo ,es igual al q acabas de hacer
Thanks for the video, I wouldn’t have been able to change the brakes without this one!
Just to add, the bolt size to pop the rotors off is M8. I didn’t have one, had to go buy a couple.
Great job, details included, very helpful.
Thank you for positive Comments I appreciate it
Très bon travail Good job merci
Thanks for positive feedback
Great video. Thank you for including the torque specs. 👍
I’m not sure 125 is correct. Seems like a lot.
@@boostedmaniac I don’t think 125 is correct. I think the front is 77ft-lbs for bracket, 24ft-lbs for shoe and the wheel for all is 76. Rear is 58ft-lbs for bracket and 24ft-lbs again for shoe.
@@darksid33 I agree. 125 is a lot.
Great video
Great video! Thank you soooooo much for your instructions!!!
Awesome video, I will start working on my Venza 2011 breakpads and roters
It's a great car
Fantastic video! Thank you for posting.
Thank you for positive comments
Great video. This helps a lot!
You welcome, thank you for watching
How did u get rear one off? Where is the part in the video about the rear one and hand brake?
I did not replace rear ones, only front.
Hi, I always learn something from you Dr. nazarettos. Any time you have a video on changing the brake pads for your 2019 rav4 soon?
Im at 51000 miles on my Rav4 and original brake pads at 40% life left on them.
The correct torque for the caliper bracket per the Toyota manual is 58ftlbs. Caliper bolts are 24ftlbs, and lug bolts are 76ftlbs.
Thank you
The front is actually 77ftlbs and rear is 58ftlbs for the bracket
🙏🙏 much obliged!!
I am glad my video was helpful
I believe you put the grease on the bottom side of the hardware clip instead of the top side where the pad slides thru it, so the sliding pad has no lubricant. Big mistake if I saw correctly. No need for grease to be underneath the hardware clip, might even lessen the bracket's hold on the hardware clip.
It is not a mistake actually, I saw a lot of people to that in professional shops. I put grease on both sides of that metal shim to stop brakes from making any squealing noises in the future.
I was going to ask the same thing
Also noted did not reinstall the springs that move the brake pads away from the rotor when brakes are no longer being applied
Good job otherwise glad you saved some $ and are helping others to do the same
@@nicholasstoica7515 He did show replacing those springs... I saw it. I wondered if they were new or just cleaned...
@@nazarettos6987 But think about it, the hardware piece does not slide in the bracket, it is fixed there, but the pad piece has to slide in the hardware piece, so where should the grease be? On the sliding surfaces, I would say. And I did not see any lubricant/grease applied there. Also, I see some people suggest not forcing the fluid back into the reservoir, but instead, cracking the bleeder screw and pushing it out there, into a container with some fluid in the container, and a hose from the bleeder screw going into and below the fluid in the container. Bleeding probably best, afterward, but that would just be a nice extra flush. A little more effort but less chance of dirty fluid getting into the reservoir, that might cause problems later, with the fluid return valve plugging, causing brakes to lock up. Had it happen on the road, once, 300 miles from home.
Great video man do you have a video for the rear breaks and rotors?
I didn't need rear rotors or brakes replaced at that timem. It's the same principle like tthe front. Remove caliper guide bolts and move caliper out,replace pads and put caliper bolts back l,done. Don't forget to compress the caliper.
When your brake pads wear uneven normally the caliper is bad. I hope that everything still working good on your vehicle. Nice video though. Thank you very much.
This car runs great,I have no issues with it. Its been more than one year and brakes are great.
Mine started squealing after like a month. Do i habe to add grease to the back of the pads?
you have to install new brake hardware, those metal plates. Also what I like to do is to clean the surface where brake hardware goes. You can also add some brake caliper grease to the back of your brake pads and caliper guiding bolts.
Where did you get 125 foot lbs from for caliper bracket?
On the forums
@@nazarettos6987 Hi - I think it should be 58 ft/lbs - here is a reference - www.tovenza.com/components-526.html
what caused the inner pad to wear prematurely...,you'd think they would include new boots w/ the hardware kit.great video, thanks
The kits sold separately does, my OE brake pads came with NOTHING (Akebono ProACT)
how much cost you, thanks
Rotors and pads total 175$
@@nazarettos6987 thanks, today i have my 2015 venza rear break pads and rotors replaced, i paid $678.5.
sorry , wrong, i paid $778.5
Thanks for the video. I just did mine. Parts for front brakes and rotors from Toyota in Canada. $333.
I asked how much for them to do all 4 corners... $1,100. $700. for parts, plus $400. for labour.
@@libaowang5675 Yes, the repair shops often charges you the retail price for parts even though they pay much less than retail. Then, of course they charge you for time and labor. I paid $550 for the fronts to be done about5 years ago. Since then, I do the work myself. There is an small auto parts store near my house that "turns" (smooths) the rotors for $10 each so they can be reused.
I'm not sure what's worse, he doesn't know the hood release from the e-brake, or he doesn't know how to edit that out of the video? Lol
I hate that stupid foot ebrake, not used to it.
Is it me or did this not wanna make you pay someone to do this ?
I work on my cars myself.
Also I know if I do it myself i do it better. In my video you can see that i even properly brushed off rust and lubricated at proper contact points. Parts that i ordered were good quality and no cheapo..