"You know, like you're really tryin to push one out"..... That was a hell of a visual there, my guy.... You always have the most informative and entertaining vids... Killer combo....
Mercedes takes it to a new level. "You will not do these things or we shut the power for 10 seconds" Also, TH-cam really likes your content from 6 years ago, I've rewatched a few because of it 😊
@@nonyabiz2777 I think , everybody who work with those rustbuckets year after year, get greys,😉, but it doesent matter, but for some like Eric O it only gives more charm.
On some of the newer mercedes diesels, when an adblue fault occurs, they get the usual 500 miles to no start, but now there's a special little treat, when they hit around 20/25 miles remaining, they lock the driver to 12mph maximum
The Dutch arent much better than the Germans in the stubborn department. I worked for Philips Lighting years ago , they are a Dutch company . the plant I was at was in the U S . They built a production machine for us , very high quality, very complicated ( to a fault ), and of course very expensive. You can imagine how much fun it was to work on . We had to send a group of maintenance and engineering people to learn about the machine. They were there for a week or 2 for very slow and regimented training . No questions could be asked during the day, they had to be typed up, double spaced etc. and would be addressed at the end of the week or 2 program. Keep in mind that all of the written info , electrical, mechanical, hydraulic , and software was done with European standards and symbols and to make things even more fun In DUTCH . German is not the easiest language to learn but in a lot of ways similar to English. Dutch makes German look easy . Understandably our people needed documemtation, blueprints, schematics, parts list in English . We requested , in double spaced type of course , said info. THEIR RESPONSE : USE THEIR BLUEPRINTS, SCHEMATICS ETC AND LEARN TO SPEAK DUTCH. Their bullheaded mentality caught up with them . They had huge financial losses and plant closings. They dont manufacture in the US any more , all Asia , Mexico, South America for the cheap stuff, all the high $ work is still in Europe, always will be . Idiotic overkill bites in the butt eventually, but does a lot of damage along the way. Mercedes is a pro at it , so are the greedy corporations , lawyers and politicians. The politicians are in for a real education real soon . Old habits die hard , the dummies never learn .
commenting at 3:09 I'm gonna go on a limb and say it needs a throttle body. I had the exact same thing happen with my 2010 Compass and all the same lights. I read the codes and it had codes for throttle position and throttle pedal. Did some research and found the most common thing was the gears on the throttle body go bad or the bushings on the flap. I replaced my throttle body with a Dorman full assembly as it was all I could get at the time and fixed it. It was the bushings wore down and flap was getting stuck in closed position. Never had an issue with the Dorman part.
My wife’s journey has the same engine as this jeep had p2110 code with the traction light and throttle light. Was a intermittent problem at first, that went away after turning the car off and on. It would be fine for a while then come up again out of the blue. I took off and cleaned throttle body, checked for damaged wires and was good for about 3 months before it went out completely. Put a new throttle body on and solved the problem. At the time, this past February no one had in stock except the dealer who had a few on the shelf. From what I was told they go bad often, the new one is a updated version and I had to cut in a new plug that came with the throttle body because the connections are different now. Not a hard job to do though. Thanks for the video Eric. 👍🏻
Gone is the day of the so called shade tree mechanic. With all the electronics now the term mechanic seems outdated. And the term technician is more the term. Congrats to you for keeping up with the times and giving people in your area someplace other than the dealership to take a vehicle. They are only as good as the warranty allows because we all know once it’s out of warranty they cant fix crap. Keep up the great content.
in Eric's lift video a guy commented he was a shade tree mechanic installing his second two post lift. as a shade tree mechanic . i had a place in the yard with a nice dip i parked over if i needed to get under the car . you know like if i needed to take the mincie out .
My grandfather had a brand new 1986 or so Chrysler New Yorker Fifth Avenue. That car was luxury. Smooth like a rolling sofa. A real pimp mobile. I was only a teen at the time but he let me drive it and I was thrilled. Drove it slowly around town, feeling like a king. Except that a cop followed me home, probably thinking I was a drug dealer LOL. I loved that car, the old Fifth Avenue.
Yeah, an honest and intelligent mechanic/serviceman: when you find one, stick with him for life! I have a saying for guys like him: "I make money by saving the customer money!"
I had the same problem a year ago. The Jeep dealer said i needed a throttle body. Parts and labor $800. Said it was a two hour job. If it happens again i will try a can of throttle body cleaner first. LOL. Thanks for an eye opening video
When I worked at a Mitsubishi dealer some 20 plus years ago we did a ton of throttle body cleanings. If you called the help line that was one of the first things they would ask.
When I was working for a shop as a teen I was cleaning the gunk off the tire machine with the good old gum cutter 2+2 and found my way to the pressure gauge. The gauge was now gunk free and super clean but not legible any more. Needless to say the boss informed me that when I get my own tire machine some day he will be paying me a visit to clean the pressure gauge for me lol😂
I’m still early in the video, but the feeling of misfiring when sitting in idle in park after you had the throttle limp mode is because the ECM is limiting the engine speed down to 1500rpm by shutting off injectors. When the throttle hits limp mode, it will shut the power to the throttle motor off and the throttle will sit at about 10-15% open. When you were pushing the throttle and it revved up to like 2500rpm from 1500rpm, the only thing that was changing on the engine was re-enabling all the fuel injectors (and maybe changing ignition timing). The throttle body didn’t move at all, because the power to it was shut off. It would feel like it smoothed out when you shifted into gear because the additional load of the transmission being in gear was enough for it to be able to re-enable the injector(s) it was turning off and still stay within the rpm range that it was happy with.
It's my opinion that a tuneup should include cleaning the throttle body and MAF. I believe this would prevent 90% of the throttle body faults. Maybe avoiding Chrysler products would help too.
@@ShainAndrewsdoesn't fuckin matter dude...he's stating a fact. I've been turning wrenches for 15 plus years... ANYTIME I remove the intake hose the throttle body and maf get cleaned...but it should absolutely be included on a "tune-up", especially since cars these days don't have plug wires and caps and rotors etc...people that say you need to replace coils during a tune up are idiots. Coils don't fail that often. It's normally the coil boot with the spring. And you can replace those separate. I've only had one coil fail on two vehicles I've owned over the last 14 years...and I've bought and sold over 200 cars over that time.
I used to see this a lot years ago where deposit build up would take the butterfly out of operational corrective range in the 'open' direction. I remember lots of VWs suffering this. A careful scrub down with break clean usually solved.. Some things never change ...
The shop i used to work at would not have even bothered to try and clean it they would have just fired on a new body with a 200% mark up on parts good work saving that customer money
hi, Mr. O. I think you nailed it. The codes pointed at a dirty throttle. You cleaned it. Done. Now I hope that the customer will let you fix his brakes or bearings, whatever that terrible noise was. But in these wonderful times, he might not have the cash. I wonder how much are you paying for gas? Anyway, thanks for sharing! Stay healthy!
I really liked this video. The throttle plate, linkages, and associated sensors are the cause of almost all drivability problems. They are extremely reliable: if properly set. Then there is the "Industrial Hygiene": keeping the important things clean and lubricated. No matter how well someone is designed or manufactured; things do get dirty and do wear. In this case, he took the time to clean the throttle body assembly, rather than replacing it. ...getting another couple years out of it and saving the customer some money.
As an ex dealership technicians turned mobile mechanic turned Heavy Equipment Field Service Tech turned Two Bay Shop owner, I find these videos invaluable not because I am clueless. Shit, half the time I've dealt with the problem you're dealing with, I've done the same job on the same vehicle, I find your videos invaluable for the problems I haven't seen yet. I don't watch most of your videos, but I listen to all of them while I myself am spinning wrenches. You and Rainman Ray, whose name is the definition of irony this last week, are always in my ear or on the shop stereo 8+ hrs a day 6+ days a week.
My experience with these is that the gear train inside wears out and starts to get a bunch of play in it which hinders the plate from closing or opening to the proper position when commanded. Aftermarket bodies are useless and don't last, dealer only which means probably the updated connector. I've taken apart a couple GM units and found that there was just a bunch of lash in the gears between motor and plate, the ECM would command X% throttle but the lash would prevent that from being achieved AND if the TB was extra dirty it would bind up more than the return spring could pull it and with the slop in the gears the motor couldn't pull it further either. GM's go-to symptom was a crank no start or start and die that needed a bit of manual throttle pedal to get the car started. With Chrysler it's just codes and limp mode, but you can certainly feel and hear a big difference between a new and old unit. I'll echo others, it'll probably be back but it's a commendable and honest effort to try the cheaper repair first. If it does come back please update us and show a wiggle test between new and old throttle plates!
I finally got caught up to a recent video, I've been binging because I really don't want to change my alternator and I'm looking for some added confidence. I'm guessing 30v AC at the battery isn't a good thing. Here's to fixing that parasitic draw after 18 months.
A customer at the auto store stated he had the same issues. Sometimes it would throw the same codes. Thanks for your Channel he knows what to say when he takes it in for any repairs.
Had a similar thing happen to a 2003 Jetta TDI. Being a diesel engine there's no throttle of course but it did have an anti-shutter-valve that kept the engine for sputtering on shut down. That thing got gummed up and stayed shut on the next startup. No codes so it had me confused for a while but I figured it out and cleaned it just like what you did. Fixed! I had to pull that ASV about every two or three years and clean out the gunk or it would freeze up and no start.
Yep! I agree with that. Had a 1969 Ford Fairlane 500. At 6000 miles the motor came off the mounts on a full throttle start and stayed at full throttle as it ate right through the radiator. Flat footed brakes and a fast ignition key switch off was all that saved the day. I think it took my 17 rear old eyes 👀 about thirty minutes to get back down to normal size. Ahh, ....the memories!!
I've cleaned many a throttle body. It's the first thing I do along with cleaning the MAF for hesitation, stalling or lack of response. 95% of the time it's the fix on most makes and models with higher mileage. Test drive then, if not fixed, diagnostics. Saves me a bunch of time and customers a bunch of $. Of course, you knew that. Quick fix with no parts and a happy customer. They usually return and tell their friends. Hope they got the brakes and bearings done to make the car safe. Great informative channel you have here....I've learned a lot. Thanks!
I'm not a mechanic, but can work on cars/Harleys, basically a parts changer. The issue now is all the electronic gizmos and from watching your vids, I see just scads of not only electronic gear, but online data that is not available or affordable to the DIYer or even gentleman mechanic. What is great about your vids is the detail and rational explanations you offer on most aspects of the issue at hand. One day soon with EVs, you will have to have the junk towed to a dealer that only does that brand, and they will keep it long enough to get parts etc, that you will have to buy a secondary vehicle to get you by till they get it fixed. Beware of buying crap cars that can only be fixed in some large city far away, like a Tesla. Not pickin on Tesla as there will be others. Kind of a raw deal when you have to pay that much for a car that can be out of service for many more reasons than supply chain issues. And I suppose more scan tools and subs...
Do you get more customers because of your videos? Your personality makes it all work for me. I truly enjoy the vids. Thanks for making a chronically I’ll person put a smile on my face because of your family business. I’ll always be a subscriber.
I've been looking into refrigerator issues and using skills learned watching these videos. They call it the "control board" but really it is the RCM - refrigerator control module. And you need wiring diagrams as they change wire colors on you. But with the diagram, you can test from the RCM plug. And they have evaporators for the freezer and fresh food now with a three-way valve to make things complicated.
I love how all the different car repair guys have different video title styles: South Main: “Flashing Throttle Light & No Go” Rainman Ray: “Engine On The Way out” Scotty Kilmer: “The worst car in recorded history and they will be out of business tomorrow!”
Lol. Scotty is a doofus. I've had a few people tell me how they love how knowledgeable he is, and I point them toward SMA, Pine Hollow, and tell them those are how real techs do work.
I had a similar problem with the butterfly valve sticking closed. Drove all day then all of a sudden I couldn't move the throttle. Cleaned it up and it's been fine ever since. Cleaned a bunch of butterfly valves for others too. No parts required fixes are awesome. Stuff you didn't see before direct injection.
I'm guessing too that the heat from the engine might play a role in expansion where the throttle sticks less after things warm up. Nice job going right to the problem and trying not to fire off the parts cannon.
Even though it was trying to "push one out", it looks like you cleaned out the restriction so that it doesn't have to push so hard! Great video as usual.
Great fix Eric, another customer who regularly repairs their car , those Brakes 😂😂😂😂😂, throttle body gummed up big time , oil fumes , engines love it 🤗🤗🤗💪💪
The whole time I am screaming...Just clean the Effin thing!...and by golly you did.This video was of particular interest for me cuz..I have a 2013 Avenger...same exact motor set up.And by the way my Chrysler"Complete garbage" as you put it I bought used 5 years ago and it has been absolutely perfect,not a single thing wrong with it... and its now a 10 year old car and I am very pleased with my 2013 Avenger.These motors when cared for are extremely reliable having their roots at Hyundai.Literally millions of them on the road today happily laying down the miles.
got to love your work. it helps me immensely. i am a big boy Newfoundlander at 62 its getting harder to do some jobs. you always remind me to be nice. please vote in november.
Just traded in my 2006 Pontiac vibe with 217,600 miles for the 2014 compass with 45,000 mile I hope that it’s as easy to work on as the vibe I’m getting cold feet, I utilized your Corolla wheel bearing video to press one on the vibe. Bought a OEM bearing kit. You provided top notch instruction! 👍
Hey Eric those do the self test when you turn the key on you can hear them make a tap / tap / tap just before you start the car . I had one that had the exact issue and I tried cleaning it . It was ok for 3 days and acted up again . Came back and had to put a throttle body on it 🫡! Thanks for your videos!!
It's amazing how you seem to be able to fix mostly anything, but you can take your car to the dealer, and they can't seem to fix anything. Nice work as always!!
As a Jeep tech for almost 10 years, I can guarantee you that throttle body will come back with the same issue. I've cleaned 10+ TB and every single one came back. I just started replacing them. Some are an updated design with a new connector.
When I worked as a service advisor at the Ford store we replaced a lot of sticking throttle bodies. Wonder how many of those just needed a good cleaning.
Eric - on the old school throttle cable - I had a Ford Fairmont back in 1989 that had the manual throttle cable stick wide open down in Bath NY going through the main light by the expressway. Shut it off quick enough, unstuck it and then drove up to the old parts store across from the library and bought some spray to lubricate it up. Throttle by wire is designed to fail closed.
Just experienced similar with a Subaru. Throttle position error, entering limp mode. Found, part of the inlet duct delaminated and lodged in the throttle blade. Research revealed a service bulletin on inlet duct delamination from Subaru.
Was having a similar problem with my 2003 Chevy S10 with the lil 2.2 liter engine. Cleaned the throttle body and WaLa it's been running good ever since. Thanks for the help.
Nice job on the throttle body1 Looked like brand new and it worked. My friend brought me the AFB carb off his 63 Vette to rebuild. I'll probably use the same method as you to clean it. Thanks for rockin these videos Eric. Appreciate it.
2010 Dodge Nitro. I had the same issues. It was the throttle body. They have plastic gears inside, and if the butterfly gets gunked up with carbon or even freezes in place from having a little moisture on it in the winter, the little electric motor will shear the plastic gears inside the goofy thing. I guess if they made it with metal gears, it would end up burning up the electric motor, so you can't win either way.
Wow you are a great technician my sister just bought a compass and had the exact same issues and my son removed and cleaned the TB and bam now fixed Thank you brother 👍👍
My sister just had the throttle body assembly removed/cleaned and reinstalled. Solved the flashing throttle light, no problem. She went to CT and they charged $148 just to look at it but wanted $800 to replace the throttle body ($500 part + $300 Labour). Referred her to my mechanic who did the cleaning and he charged her $128 and he said cleaned it like new. I live in Canada and we have a few honest mechanics here too. Been going to my guy since 1996 and he never let me down.
Excellent diagnostics! I really liked the logic of working with error codes. I don't think this throttle valve will work for long. Most likely, the plastic gear of the damper drive is already damaged. You can even hear it when you turn on the ignition. There will be a sound similar to a quiet crack. I was surprised that there wasn't a lot of oil inside. This means the PCV valve is still doing its job. If you decide to wash the damper and see a lot of oil, be sure to change the PCV valve.
Thank you Eric! I enjoy watching your troubleshooting efforts! I'm new to the automotive electronics bit and I was involved with industrial process control for a good part of my life. It's interesting to see how the automotive engineers have "re-imagined" electric and data control circuits. I know that they are cost driven, but it makes me wonder how cost efficient it really is except for manufacturing. When you described the throttle body motor circuit and the redundancy involved it reminds me of what we call in process control and fire & watch systems as "supervision." It is a way of determining the true state of a device in control, or if the circuitry or electronics driving it have been compromised. Thanks again! 😁
@@dizzy2020 All they have EVER cared about is assembly. Decades ago when cars had frames, I saw assembly lines where the frames were upside down. They put the shim packs in for front end alignment. Then when the owner of that shiny new car finally has to have a front end alignment, the bolts are loosened and the shim packs fall out! And over the decades nothing has changed. They find the cheapest way to assemble a vehicle and the customer be damned!
I have a 2014 Dodge Durango. car wouldn’t start and says “not in park”. Tcm fuse was blown. Replaced the fuse it blew also. Tested it, shows a full short. Long story short I took apart the TCM and opened it up completely. A portion of the circuit board was blown apart. Cleaned it, tested it, resealed it and the car runs perfect. Dealer wanted $2700 and the parts were on back order. Thank God I did it myself. Cost me $212 in sealant and trans fluid. If I can do it you can do it!😅
There's a good chance it will be back in a few weeks. The gears get knackered inside the throttle bodies. Relieving the drag just gets it by for a while. You have three options: put in an Amazon Chinese TB and change it again in a month when it fails, put in the new REVISED Jeep part that requires changing/splicing the pigtail connector and change it again in 6 months when that one fails.. Put in a Hitachi built TB and don't worry about it again. The Hitachi also doesn't require splicing in a new connector.
I didn't know Hitachi made auto parts. I remember them as an audio/video component company. I guess there is no market for those anymore, so they've switched to making electronic car components.
@@paulparoma Hitachi has always been a big player in auto OEM electronics. I am actually an electronics tech and have repaired Hitachi OEM electronics since the 80s at least. Very big OEM. Rockauto carries the Hitachi part.
@@ohger1 I see. I suppose they are a very large electronics company, kind of like Matsushita. Next time I look for a part, I'll be sure to choose the Hitachi. I hope they make them for my Scion.
@@paulparoma The Scion parts may be fine and probably are. The reason I recommended the Hitachi **specifically** for the Compass is that the originals are known to be troublesome and the new revised Jeep part didn't fix that. Amazon reviews show the Chinese knockoffs to be junk and I don't know who makes the Dorman or NAPA TBs for this model Jeep, so that left me scrambling to find something that would work. Still, I think that if you see any Hitachi part offered, it would be a fine sub even if it isn't necessary as I feel it was in the specific case of the Jeep Compass throttle bodies.
@@ohger1 Yes, Toyota parts are fine, but I was thinking in terms of having to get an aftermarket part in case a Toyota one is not available. It's good to know Hitachi is a quality supplier. I had a Dorman EVAP canister installed, before I learned Dorman is supposed to be garbage, but it works fine. Little by little, Toyota is discontinuing parts for my 2005 Scion, so it's important to know what's out there, because I want to keep this car for as long as I can.
Eric, on those thinkpad laptops the touchpad part that wears is usually just a sticker. You just peel off the worn one and get a replacement sticker for cheap on amazon.
Good video and interesting diagnosis! I have to say one can only get the human facial expression that accurately describes the vehicle problem, only on SMA Good job Sir 🙂
In the early years of electronic truck engine flash files, we would put in the latest file. After some new files with new bugs, or unwanted parameter changes, we only changed files for a known problem that a new file fixed. As emission law’s tightened, a special waiver from our factory tech center was required to back flash to the original file. The time came when you could not back date the files. A particular occurrence happened when emissions tightened again, and the newer files had a 2 degree narrower timing window. Camshaft replacement sometimes required idler gear lash adjustment more than once.
First thing I added and will continue to do. Is installing a catch can on the PCV. These newer engines have a lot of blow-by. If your filter gets clogged it exacerbates the situation.
The 1995 Jaguar had a problem where the butterfly would lock up. I bought a spare throttle body and polished it up then installed. The lock up would take about 30k miles so swap the spare and polish again. My 1988 and 1989 XJ40 XJ6 didn't have this problem.
Another great vid of your persistence at diagnosing electronic malfunctions to a resolution. Takes knowledge and techniques to accomplish the sometimes unknown. Kudos to you Eric....
I subscribed 5 years ago. 5 long, fantastic SMA viewing years ago. You da MAN, Mr. O. Great video. Ivan had a very similar issue with a FBW throttle a little while ago. Love the video. Thanks for bringing us along!! Say Hi to the family. Be safe.
Dr. O another great video as usual. Wish you would have demonstrated more in depth on how you were manipulating the throttle body motors by just attaching jumpers to the battery.
As a mechanic you know I gotta have a pocket in my T-shirt I would love to own every T-shirt you put out I wish they just put a pocket in it… And that throttle body someday it might run by Bluetooth that’ll really suck!! I work on a lot of old stuff here in Massachusetts and I still work on throttles with cables they gum up and mess up just as bad as the electronic ones
Hello Eric O, I have a 2014 Chrysler 200 4 banger 259K miles owned since new. I replaced the factory throttle body with a mopar throttle at about 130K. In your video you said you were unsure when the pcm is performing its test cycles. For me the thing always went wonky at a stop light. It did it to me last summer and I cleaned the throttle body and it did it to me this morning coming into work. The code I get is P2173 to much air flow I checked for vacuum leaks last summer and found nothing. Its been golden until this morning. Im a subscriber because of your methodology to finding the root cause of issues its the only way to do it on todays vehicles. Mike - Plus8Precision
I like how this guy doesn’t talk off the track about what he knows and just let you learn his steps to finding the issue true knowledge is not speaking to much good video bro
Great video. Will definitely help me with the problem that I am having with my 2015 Jeep Patriot. Great for a little bonding to time with my son tomorrow.
I wonder if Mrs. O realizes Eric took one of her baking pans from the kitchen. (Eric secretly returns pan back to cupboard without Mrs. O realizing IT's A PART CLEANING TUB) LOL. Love the video's Eric!
I had one of those junk parts washers that you mentioned. After a few months, I talked the boss into going back to the solvent based cleaner. The brakekleen was costing to much.
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Your analysis of the Chrysler service data killed me, the guy knows they're gonna break all the time so takes mercy on diagnosing them
Between repairing cars and pit barrel cooking Mr. O has been putting some awesome videos out. Thanks
You forgot the target practice with Mrs. 'O'. Good times!
@@mikeafa1 I love how she is a better shot. This Jeep might make her jealous. Being such a dirty dirty girl.
Mr. O has been putting out awesome videos for 7 years.
Dan and Michael , Facts !!
yup!!
"You know, like you're really tryin to push one out"..... That was a hell of a visual there, my guy.... You always have the most informative and entertaining vids... Killer combo....
P2112 new slang for constipation!!
😄😄😄😄😄😄
I laughed my ass off with the facial expression and above mentioned text.
👍
I thought he was giving birth there for a minute
Mercedes takes it to a new level. "You will not do these things or we shut the power for 10 seconds"
Also, TH-cam really likes your content from 6 years ago, I've rewatched a few because of it 😊
Oh the days when Mr O had no gray hairs. Mrs O still looks just as good as she did years ago.
@@nonyabiz2777 I think , everybody who work with those rustbuckets year after year, get greys,😉, but it doesent matter, but for some like Eric O it only gives more charm.
On some of the newer mercedes diesels, when an adblue fault occurs, they get the usual 500 miles to no start, but now there's a special little treat, when they hit around 20/25 miles remaining, they lock the driver to 12mph maximum
MERCEDES / GERMAN MENTALITY
Reminds me of the classic movie scene where the Nazi says " Vee have vays of making you sign zee papers "
The Dutch arent much better than the Germans in the stubborn department.
I worked for Philips Lighting years ago , they are a Dutch company . the plant I was at was in the U S . They built a production machine for us , very high quality, very complicated ( to a fault ), and of course very expensive. You can imagine how much fun it was to work on .
We had to send a group of maintenance and engineering people to learn about the machine. They were there for a week or 2 for very slow and regimented training .
No questions could be asked during the day, they had to be typed up, double spaced etc. and would be addressed at the end of the week or 2 program. Keep in mind that all of the written info , electrical, mechanical, hydraulic , and software was done with European standards and symbols and to make things even more fun In DUTCH . German is not the easiest language to learn but in a lot of ways similar to English. Dutch makes German look easy .
Understandably our people needed documemtation, blueprints, schematics, parts list in English . We requested , in double spaced type of course , said info.
THEIR RESPONSE : USE THEIR BLUEPRINTS, SCHEMATICS ETC AND LEARN TO SPEAK DUTCH. Their bullheaded mentality caught up with them . They had huge financial losses and plant closings. They dont manufacture in the US any more , all Asia , Mexico, South America for the cheap stuff, all the high $ work is still in Europe, always will be .
Idiotic overkill bites in the butt eventually, but does a lot of damage along the way.
Mercedes is a pro at it , so are the greedy corporations , lawyers and politicians.
The politicians are in for a real education real soon . Old habits die hard , the dummies never learn .
commenting at 3:09 I'm gonna go on a limb and say it needs a throttle body. I had the exact same thing happen with my 2010 Compass and all the same lights. I read the codes and it had codes for throttle position and throttle pedal. Did some research and found the most common thing was the gears on the throttle body go bad or the bushings on the flap. I replaced my throttle body with a Dorman full assembly as it was all I could get at the time and fixed it. It was the bushings wore down and flap was getting stuck in closed position. Never had an issue with the Dorman part.
As long as there are Jeeps to break down, Eric O will be a busy man!
That and Chevrolets
"As long as they build Jeeps"
that road test with the compass makes my car seem like it's in perfect condition even though I know mine has 'issues'
My wife’s journey has the same engine as this jeep had p2110 code with the traction light and throttle light. Was a intermittent problem at first, that went away after turning the car off and on. It would be fine for a while then come up again out of the blue. I took off and cleaned throttle body, checked for damaged wires and was good for about 3 months before it went out completely. Put a new throttle body on and solved the problem. At the time, this past February no one had in stock except the dealer who had a few on the shelf. From what I was told they go bad often, the new one is a updated version and I had to cut in a new plug that came with the throttle body because the connections are different now. Not a hard job to do though. Thanks for the video Eric. 👍🏻
I'm glad they're still a few honest mechanic's out there
Great as always, Eric. And Ivan would be proud - No Parts Required!! Thanks!
Gone is the day of the so called shade tree mechanic. With all the electronics now the term mechanic seems outdated. And the term technician is more the term. Congrats to you for keeping up with the times and giving people in your area someplace other than the dealership to take a vehicle. They are only as good as the warranty allows because we all know once it’s out of warranty they cant fix crap. Keep up the great content.
Pfft. I do my best work out in the shade of a tree. VGG prefers open fields I think but then he's all about older cars.
in Eric's lift video a guy commented he was a shade tree mechanic installing his second two post lift. as a shade tree mechanic . i had a place in the yard with a nice dip i parked over if i needed to get under the car . you know like if i needed to take the mincie out .
My grandfather had a brand new 1986 or so Chrysler New Yorker Fifth Avenue. That car was luxury. Smooth like a rolling sofa. A real pimp mobile. I was only a teen at the time but he let me drive it and I was thrilled. Drove it slowly around town, feeling like a king. Except that a cop followed me home, probably thinking I was a drug dealer LOL. I loved that car, the old Fifth Avenue.
I love it when you have fixes like this. It's not all parts swap, it's doing what's best for the customer. Wish there were more like you out there.
Yeah, an honest and intelligent mechanic/serviceman: when you find one, stick with him for life! I have a saying for guys like him: "I make money by saving the customer money!"
@@josephsteffen2378 you took the words right out of my mouth.
I had the same problem a year ago. The Jeep dealer said i needed a throttle body. Parts and labor $800. Said it was a two hour job. If it happens again i will try a can of throttle body cleaner first. LOL. Thanks for an eye opening video
Me too 2 years ago same issues went to Chrysler dealership paid 900 for parts and labor for throttle body now it’s 2023 same issue
When I worked at a Mitsubishi dealer some 20 plus years ago we did a ton of throttle body cleanings. If you called the help line that was one of the first things they would ask.
When I was working for a shop as a teen I was cleaning the gunk off the tire machine with the good old gum cutter 2+2 and found my way to the pressure gauge. The gauge was now gunk free and super clean but not legible any more. Needless to say the boss informed me that when I get my own tire machine some day he will be paying me a visit to clean the pressure gauge for me lol😂
I’m still early in the video, but the feeling of misfiring when sitting in idle in park after you had the throttle limp mode is because the ECM is limiting the engine speed down to 1500rpm by shutting off injectors. When the throttle hits limp mode, it will shut the power to the throttle motor off and the throttle will sit at about 10-15% open. When you were pushing the throttle and it revved up to like 2500rpm from 1500rpm, the only thing that was changing on the engine was re-enabling all the fuel injectors (and maybe changing ignition timing). The throttle body didn’t move at all, because the power to it was shut off. It would feel like it smoothed out when you shifted into gear because the additional load of the transmission being in gear was enough for it to be able to re-enable the injector(s) it was turning off and still stay within the rpm range that it was happy with.
It's my opinion that a tuneup should include cleaning the throttle body and MAF. I believe this would prevent 90% of the throttle body faults. Maybe avoiding Chrysler products would help too.
You turn wrenches for a living?
100% should be part of the 30k tune up with the spark plugs. FCA connectors notorious for the crusties, and the spot where the TB is gets VERY dirty.
@@ShainAndrews is that relevant?
@@ShainAndrewsdoesn't fuckin matter dude...he's stating a fact. I've been turning wrenches for 15 plus years... ANYTIME I remove the intake hose the throttle body and maf get cleaned...but it should absolutely be included on a "tune-up", especially since cars these days don't have plug wires and caps and rotors etc...people that say you need to replace coils during a tune up are idiots. Coils don't fail that often. It's normally the coil boot with the spring. And you can replace those separate. I've only had one coil fail on two vehicles I've owned over the last 14 years...and I've bought and sold over 200 cars over that time.
@@ElantraFukkenGangnewer spark plugs are good for 100K miles
I used to see this a lot years ago where deposit build up would take the butterfly out of operational corrective range in the 'open' direction. I remember lots of VWs suffering this. A careful scrub down with break clean usually solved.. Some things never change ...
The shop i used to work at would not have even bothered to try and clean it they would have just fired on a new body with a 200% mark up on parts good work saving that customer money
hi, Mr. O. I think you nailed it. The codes pointed at a dirty throttle. You cleaned it. Done. Now I hope that the customer will let you fix his brakes or bearings, whatever that terrible noise was. But in these wonderful times, he might not have the cash. I wonder how much are you paying for gas? Anyway, thanks for sharing! Stay healthy!
I really liked this video. The throttle plate, linkages, and associated sensors are the cause of almost all drivability problems. They are extremely reliable: if properly set. Then there is the "Industrial Hygiene": keeping the important things clean and lubricated. No matter how well someone is designed or manufactured; things do get dirty and do wear. In this case, he took the time to clean the throttle body assembly, rather than replacing it. ...getting another couple years out of it and saving the customer some money.
I've never seen a throtle body that gummed up before. It's impressive it worked at all before cleaning.
I really like that your honest. You saved that customer $300 plus labor on throttle body alone.
Great job
As an ex dealership technicians turned mobile mechanic turned Heavy Equipment Field Service Tech turned Two Bay Shop owner, I find these videos invaluable not because I am clueless. Shit, half the time I've dealt with the problem you're dealing with, I've done the same job on the same vehicle, I find your videos invaluable for the problems I haven't seen yet. I don't watch most of your videos, but I listen to all of them while I myself am spinning wrenches. You and Rainman Ray, whose name is the definition of irony this last week, are always in my ear or on the shop stereo 8+ hrs a day 6+ days a week.
My experience with these is that the gear train inside wears out and starts to get a bunch of play in it which hinders the plate from closing or opening to the proper position when commanded. Aftermarket bodies are useless and don't last, dealer only which means probably the updated connector. I've taken apart a couple GM units and found that there was just a bunch of lash in the gears between motor and plate, the ECM would command X% throttle but the lash would prevent that from being achieved AND if the TB was extra dirty it would bind up more than the return spring could pull it and with the slop in the gears the motor couldn't pull it further either. GM's go-to symptom was a crank no start or start and die that needed a bit of manual throttle pedal to get the car started. With Chrysler it's just codes and limp mode, but you can certainly feel and hear a big difference between a new and old unit. I'll echo others, it'll probably be back but it's a commendable and honest effort to try the cheaper repair first. If it does come back please update us and show a wiggle test between new and old throttle plates!
I finally got caught up to a recent video, I've been binging because I really don't want to change my alternator and I'm looking for some added confidence. I'm guessing 30v AC at the battery isn't a good thing. Here's to fixing that parasitic draw after 18 months.
A customer at the auto store stated he had the same issues. Sometimes it would throw the same codes.
Thanks for your Channel he knows what to say when he takes it in for any repairs.
Guaranteed the throttle body is still bad. The gears inside get chewed up. Just change it out (20 minutes) with a Hitachi and it's fixed for years.
Wow...you live in a beautiful part of the country. Nice scenic test drive.
The postive and negative wave at the same time/phase is called a differential signal for noise suppression
Had a similar thing happen to a 2003 Jetta TDI. Being a diesel engine there's no throttle of course but it did have an anti-shutter-valve that kept the engine for sputtering on shut down. That thing got gummed up and stayed shut on the next startup. No codes so it had me confused for a while but I figured it out and cleaned it just like what you did. Fixed!
I had to pull that ASV about every two or three years and clean out the gunk or it would freeze up and no start.
drinking a beer, eating corn chips and watching a sma video, oh ya
Personally, I miss the rod linkage we had before cables. The ones that pulled the throttle open when you broke an engine mount.
I actually had that happen on a 1960 Pontiac. The thing just took off!
Yep! I agree with that. Had a 1969 Ford Fairlane 500. At 6000 miles the motor came off the mounts on a full throttle start and stayed at full throttle as it ate right through the radiator. Flat footed brakes and a fast ignition key switch off was all that saved the day. I think it took my 17 rear old eyes 👀 about thirty minutes to get back down to normal size. Ahh, ....the memories!!
I've cleaned many a throttle body. It's the first thing I do along with cleaning the MAF for hesitation, stalling or lack of response. 95% of the time it's the fix on most makes and models with higher mileage. Test drive then, if not fixed, diagnostics. Saves me a bunch of time and customers a bunch of $. Of course, you knew that. Quick fix with no parts and a happy customer. They usually return and tell their friends.
Hope they got the brakes and bearings done to make the car safe. Great informative channel you have here....I've learned a lot. Thanks!
Thanks for the full explanation regarding throttle bodies. I learned something as a novice.
You have the best diagnostics on youtube and do it with some great humor.
Good video, keep your digits out of things while the camera is off. Hard thing to do when your right there and just need to get it done
I'm not a mechanic, but can work on cars/Harleys, basically a parts changer. The issue now is all the electronic gizmos and from watching your vids, I see just scads of not only electronic gear, but online data that is not available or affordable to the DIYer or even gentleman mechanic. What is great about your vids is the detail and rational explanations you offer on most aspects of the issue at hand. One day soon with EVs, you will have to have the junk towed to a dealer that only does that brand, and they will keep it long enough to get parts etc, that you will have to buy a secondary vehicle to get you by till they get it fixed. Beware of buying crap cars that can only be fixed in some large city far away, like a Tesla. Not pickin on Tesla as there will be others. Kind of a raw deal when you have to pay that much for a car that can be out of service for many more reasons than supply chain issues. And I suppose more scan tools and subs...
Do you get more customers because of your videos? Your personality makes it all work for me. I truly enjoy the vids. Thanks for making a chronically I’ll person put a smile on my face because of your family business. I’ll always be a subscriber.
I've been looking into refrigerator issues and using skills learned watching these videos. They call it the "control board" but really it is the RCM - refrigerator control module. And you need wiring diagrams as they change wire colors on you. But with the diagram, you can test from the RCM plug. And they have evaporators for the freezer and fresh food now with a three-way valve to make things complicated.
I love how all the different car repair guys have different video title styles:
South Main: “Flashing Throttle Light & No Go”
Rainman Ray: “Engine On The Way out”
Scotty Kilmer: “The worst car in recorded history and they will be out of business tomorrow!”
Lol. Scotty is a doofus. I've had a few people tell me how they love how knowledgeable he is, and I point them toward SMA, Pine Hollow, and tell them those are how real techs do work.
Rainman Ray "I got another COMEBACK, Engine on the way out, let me clean the battery posts"
I had a similar problem with the butterfly valve sticking closed. Drove all day then all of a sudden I couldn't move the throttle. Cleaned it up and it's been fine ever since. Cleaned a bunch of butterfly valves for others too. No parts required fixes are awesome. Stuff you didn't see before direct injection.
I'm guessing too that the heat from the engine might play a role in expansion where the throttle sticks less after things warm up. Nice job going right to the problem and trying not to fire off the parts cannon.
Even though it was trying to "push one out", it looks like you cleaned out the restriction so that it doesn't have to push so hard! Great video as usual.
Great fix Eric, another customer who regularly repairs their car , those Brakes 😂😂😂😂😂, throttle body gummed up big time , oil fumes , engines love it 🤗🤗🤗💪💪
The whole time I am screaming...Just clean the Effin thing!...and by golly you did.This video was of particular interest for me cuz..I have a 2013 Avenger...same exact motor set up.And by the way my Chrysler"Complete garbage" as you put it I bought used 5 years ago and it has been absolutely perfect,not a single thing wrong with it...
and its now a 10 year old car and I am very pleased with my 2013 Avenger.These motors when cared for are extremely reliable having their roots at Hyundai.Literally millions of them on the road today happily laying down the miles.
Found your channel by accident I love watching you diagnose and figuring things out thanks for sharing I’m just another gearhead
got to love your work. it helps me immensely. i am a big boy Newfoundlander at 62 its getting harder to do some jobs. you always remind me to be nice. please vote in november.
I liked the "vote" comment so much I clicked the like button 7 times!
Just traded in my 2006 Pontiac vibe with 217,600 miles for the 2014 compass with 45,000 mile I hope that it’s as easy to work on as the vibe I’m getting cold feet, I utilized your Corolla wheel bearing video to press one on the vibe. Bought a OEM bearing kit. You provided top notch instruction! 👍
Hey Eric those do the self test when you turn the key on you can hear them make a tap / tap / tap just before you start the car . I had one that had the exact issue and I tried cleaning it . It was ok for 3 days and acted up again . Came back and had to put a throttle body on it 🫡! Thanks for your videos!!
It's amazing how you seem to be able to fix mostly anything, but you can take your car to the dealer, and they can't seem to fix anything. Nice work as always!!
As a Jeep tech for almost 10 years, I can guarantee you that throttle body will come back with the same issue. I've cleaned 10+ TB and every single one came back. I just started replacing them. Some are an updated design with a new connector.
Why do they get so dirty so fast?
@@gregjohnson2073 engine blow by just the engine wears out.
You have much experience with the xj?
As a Jeep tech since 1987, I'm gonna have to agree. It will most likely be back.
So cleaning it real good like Eric did isn't enough? Is it the sensor on it that needs replaced and that's why cleaned ones just come right back?
The most amazing part is that somebody actually bought that thing
I liked the accelerometer/decellerometer turn and bank indicator hanging from the mirror. Push one out was classic.
When I worked as a service advisor at the Ford store we replaced a lot of sticking throttle bodies. Wonder how many of those just needed a good cleaning.
None. The Ford ones are known for internal failure with the gears after they stick from being dirty
My wife jeep compass is taking a while to start in the morning,shut off when stopping could that be throttle body pri
Problem
Eric - on the old school throttle cable - I had a Ford Fairmont back in 1989 that had the manual throttle cable stick wide open down in Bath NY going through the main light by the expressway. Shut it off quick enough, unstuck it and then drove up to the old parts store across from the library and bought some spray to lubricate it up. Throttle by wire is designed to fail closed.
Just experienced similar with a Subaru. Throttle position error, entering limp mode. Found, part of the inlet duct delaminated and lodged in the throttle blade. Research revealed a service bulletin on inlet duct delamination from Subaru.
What year
yikes ( Australia )
Was having a similar problem with my 2003 Chevy S10 with the lil 2.2 liter engine. Cleaned the throttle body and WaLa it's been running good ever since. Thanks for the help.
Nice job on the throttle body1 Looked like brand new and it worked. My friend brought me the AFB carb off his 63 Vette to rebuild. I'll probably use the same method as you to clean it. Thanks for rockin these videos Eric. Appreciate it.
ron watson 340 horse?
2010 Dodge Nitro. I had the same issues. It was the throttle body. They have plastic gears inside, and if the butterfly gets gunked up with carbon or even freezes in place from having a little moisture on it in the winter, the little electric motor will shear the plastic gears inside the goofy thing. I guess if they made it with metal gears, it would end up burning up the electric motor, so you can't win either way.
Good fix! I wonder if the customer gets the Evap System & Bearing fixed?
Wow you are a great technician my sister just bought a compass and had the exact same issues and my son removed and cleaned the TB and bam now fixed Thank you brother 👍👍
My sister just had the throttle body assembly removed/cleaned and reinstalled. Solved the flashing throttle light, no problem. She went to CT and they charged $148 just to look at it but wanted $800 to replace the throttle body ($500 part + $300 Labour). Referred her to my mechanic who did the cleaning and he charged her $128 and he said cleaned it like new. I live in Canada and we have a few honest mechanics here too. Been going to my guy since 1996 and he never let me down.
Excellent diagnostics! I really liked the logic of working with error codes.
I don't think this throttle valve will work for long. Most likely, the plastic gear of the damper drive is already damaged. You can even hear it when you turn on the ignition. There will be a sound similar to a quiet crack.
I was surprised that there wasn't a lot of oil inside. This means the PCV valve is still doing its job.
If you decide to wash the damper and see a lot of oil, be sure to change the PCV valve.
Thank you Eric! I enjoy watching your troubleshooting efforts! I'm new to the automotive electronics bit and I was involved with industrial process control for a good part of my life. It's interesting to see how the automotive engineers have "re-imagined" electric and data control circuits. I know that they are cost driven, but it makes me wonder how cost efficient it really is except for manufacturing. When you described the throttle body motor circuit and the redundancy involved it reminds me of what we call in process control and fire & watch systems as "supervision." It is a way of determining the true state of a device in control, or if the circuitry or electronics driving it have been compromised. Thanks again! 😁
@@dizzy2020 All they have EVER cared about is assembly. Decades ago when cars had frames, I saw assembly lines where the frames were upside down. They put the shim packs in for front end alignment. Then when the owner of that shiny new car finally has to have a front end alignment, the bolts are loosened and the shim packs fall out! And over the decades nothing has changed. They find the cheapest way to assemble a vehicle and the customer be damned!
8:11 "So this is kinda making sense. " I am happy it is for you. Rock on .
I have a 2014 Dodge Durango. car wouldn’t start and says “not in park”. Tcm fuse was blown. Replaced the fuse it blew also. Tested it, shows a full short. Long story short I took apart the TCM and opened it up completely. A portion of the circuit board was blown apart. Cleaned it, tested it, resealed it and the car runs perfect. Dealer wanted $2700 and the parts were on back order. Thank God I did it myself. Cost me $212 in sealant and trans fluid. If I can do it you can do it!😅
There's a good chance it will be back in a few weeks. The gears get knackered inside the throttle bodies. Relieving the drag just gets it by for a while. You have three options: put in an Amazon Chinese TB and change it again in a month when it fails, put in the new REVISED Jeep part that requires changing/splicing the pigtail connector and change it again in 6 months when that one fails.. Put in a Hitachi built TB and don't worry about it again. The Hitachi also doesn't require splicing in a new connector.
I didn't know Hitachi made auto parts. I remember them as an audio/video component company. I guess there is no market for those anymore, so they've switched to making electronic car components.
@@paulparoma Hitachi has always been a big player in auto OEM electronics. I am actually an electronics tech and have repaired Hitachi OEM electronics since the 80s at least. Very big OEM. Rockauto carries the Hitachi part.
@@ohger1 I see. I suppose they are a very large electronics company, kind of like Matsushita. Next time I look for a part, I'll be sure to choose the Hitachi. I hope they make them for my Scion.
@@paulparoma The Scion parts may be fine and probably are. The reason I recommended the Hitachi **specifically** for the Compass is that the originals are known to be troublesome and the new revised Jeep part didn't fix that. Amazon reviews show the Chinese knockoffs to be junk and I don't know who makes the Dorman or NAPA TBs for this model Jeep, so that left me scrambling to find something that would work. Still, I think that if you see any Hitachi part offered, it would be a fine sub even if it isn't necessary as I feel it was in the specific case of the Jeep Compass throttle bodies.
@@ohger1 Yes, Toyota parts are fine, but I was thinking in terms of having to get an aftermarket part in case a Toyota one is not available. It's good to know Hitachi is a quality supplier. I had a Dorman EVAP canister installed, before I learned Dorman is supposed to be garbage, but it works fine. Little by little, Toyota is discontinuing parts for my 2005 Scion, so it's important to know what's out there, because I want to keep this car for as long as I can.
Eric, on those thinkpad laptops the touchpad part that wears is usually just a sticker. You just peel off the worn one and get a replacement sticker for cheap on amazon.
This isn’t a sleight against Jeep, but having a facility to show trouble codes on the dash is fantastic. I wish all cars had that.
Just across the border here in Kingston. Always a pleasure to watch both channels.
Good video and interesting diagnosis! I have to say one can only get the human facial expression that accurately describes the vehicle problem, only on SMA Good job Sir 🙂
In the early years of electronic truck engine flash files, we would put in the latest file. After some new files with new bugs, or unwanted parameter changes, we only changed files for a known problem that a new file fixed. As emission law’s tightened, a special waiver from our factory tech center was required to back flash to the original file. The time came when you could not back date the files. A particular occurrence happened when emissions tightened again, and the newer files had a 2 degree narrower timing window. Camshaft replacement sometimes required idler gear lash adjustment more than once.
A very thorough explanation at the end Eric. Much appreciated video from start to finish.
Thank you very much for showing us viewers in fixing this problem. I know now what to expect from the mechanic when they use their diagnostic machine.
First thing I added and will continue to do. Is installing a catch can on the PCV. These newer engines have a lot of blow-by. If your filter gets clogged it exacerbates the situation.
The 1995 Jaguar had a problem where the butterfly would lock up. I bought a spare throttle body and polished it up then installed. The lock up would take about 30k miles so swap the spare and polish again. My 1988 and 1989 XJ40 XJ6 didn't have this problem.
Another great vid of your persistence at diagnosing electronic malfunctions to a resolution. Takes knowledge and techniques to accomplish the sometimes unknown. Kudos to you Eric....
I subscribed 5 years ago. 5 long, fantastic SMA viewing years ago. You da MAN, Mr. O.
Great video. Ivan had a very similar issue with a FBW throttle a little while ago.
Love the video. Thanks for bringing us along!! Say Hi to the family. Be safe.
Finally service repair data steps that are actually useful
As always, I learned a little more about cars today. Thanks!
Dr. O another great video as usual. Wish you would have demonstrated more in depth on how you were manipulating the throttle body motors by just attaching jumpers to the battery.
As a mechanic you know I gotta have a pocket in my T-shirt I would love to own every T-shirt you put out I wish they just put a pocket in it…
And that throttle body someday it might run by Bluetooth that’ll really suck!!
I work on a lot of old stuff here in Massachusetts and I still work on throttles with cables they gum up and mess up just as bad as the electronic ones
Great troubleshooting and deduction. No need to through new parts on if cleaning it gets you back to normal ops
Love to see what the brakes look like. Never seen symptoms like that.
Guess that the noise is a left front wheel bearing.
I thought I was the only one that talked through the intake tube when I take em off!
Hello Eric O, I have a 2014 Chrysler 200 4 banger 259K miles owned since new. I replaced the factory throttle body with a mopar throttle at about 130K. In your video you said you were unsure when the pcm is performing its test cycles. For me the thing always went wonky at a stop light. It did it to me last summer and I cleaned the throttle body and it did it to me this morning coming into work. The code I get is P2173 to much air flow I checked for vacuum leaks last summer and found nothing. Its been golden until this morning. Im a subscriber because of your methodology to finding the root cause of issues its the only way to do it on todays vehicles.
Mike - Plus8Precision
I like how this guy doesn’t talk off the track about what he knows and just let you learn his steps to finding the issue true knowledge is not speaking to much good video bro
I have been watching videos all night!!! This was the best one that I have watched that help me understand and fix my issues. Thank you.
We almost learned about PWM, but that's ok, you showed us that stuff before. Always an interesting time at the SMA shop
Great video. Will definitely help me with the problem that I am having with my 2015 Jeep Patriot. Great for a little bonding to time with my son tomorrow.
Ok I’m here at the comment section! You are a genius heavy on the gen not the ass.
I wonder if Mrs. O realizes Eric took one of her baking pans from the kitchen. (Eric secretly returns pan back to cupboard without Mrs. O realizing IT's A PART CLEANING TUB) LOL. Love the video's Eric!
“No voltage being applied currently”
I see what you did there!😂
Watched it Some interesting diagnostics One of the best detailed videos I've seen Keep pumping them out I will keep coming back
I had one of those junk parts washers that you mentioned. After a few months, I talked the boss into going back to the solvent based cleaner. The brakekleen was costing to much.
we had one of those junk parts washer too. Went back to solvent .
Is it really eco friendly, if it takes 4x the chemicals and does 1/2 the job?
Sounds like she needs some love! Thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you for the kind words
Eric Sir. Even if it does eventually come back . Good bless you for not running a parts cannon scam shop !!!
23:20 my favourite death metal song covered by Eric-O! What a day to be alive.