Rebuilding a classic Sheridan PGP Paintball Gun from Pursuit Marketing Inc.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video we rebuild a classic Sheridan PGP Paintball Gun from Pursuit Marketing Inc with the standard valve (not the cartridge valve).
For a video on bolt removal and cutting a quick strip slot watch this video:
• Sheridan PGP or PMI Pu...
I do not offer repairs through www.baccipaintb... only parts but I can recommend www.Paintballte... if you aren't interested in doing the repair yourself.
This assembly will be the same on all shoot to pierce non cartridge valve sheridans such as the PGP, Pursuit Pistol, PMI 1, PMI 1 DF. K, K1, K2 and KP2s (and maybe some KP3s) use the same valve assembly but the breakdown to get to the valve is a little different.
Breaking down a Mac-1 Annihilator or Avenger would also be the same process.
In the video I discard the lead valve gasket which comes out of the valve when I remove the valve from the body of the PGP. This gasket is not needed. It may prevent over tightening on the valve but I always remove it when I rebuild an old gun.
Before attempting to knock your valve out make sure you remove the oring that gets sandwich between the valve and the brass valve casing. This is usually a hard oring to get out after it has been inside a gun for 20 years!
When you are reassembling your standard Sheridan valve be careful not to overtighten the valve retaining screw in the body.
Most stock spare hard parts for sheridans such valves, valve retaining screws, valve casings, valve casing heads, hammers, bolts, front and back top tube plugs are all available from baccipaintball at:
www.baccipaintb...
You can find most of the valve parts referenced in this video at:
www.baccipaintb...
And sheridan orings at:
www.baccipaintb...
And sheridan orings at:
www.baccipaintb...
Valve tools are available from Palmers at this link:
palmer-pursuit....
And Palmers offers a rebuild kit for a standard sheridan shoot to pierce valve at this link:
palmer-pursuit....
If you aren't comfortable rebuilding your PGP yourself you can always "call PaintballTek DOT com!" for some help at:
www.Paintballte...
Or visit Tim at Nor Cal Paintball in Vacaville Ca.
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Later style piercers for 12 gram sheridans.
www.baccipaintb...
You are the hero Sheridan owners need and deserve.
Thnak you very much Mr. Bacci for this video (and the parts that I purchased from your web site)! Now my Sheridan PMI 1 works like a charm!!! Awesome!
thanks for the tutorial, i now have a freshly rebuilt PGP!
Thanks! I used your video for instruction and Bacci Paintball for parts. Rebuilt the PGPs I've had for over 20 years! They work perfect now. Thanks again!
Mark Elisei Awesome Mark! Glad this video and the parts you ordered worked out! Thanks, -Dan
Thanks for this video! I just rebuilt my PGP valve using the face seal purchased from you (via ebay thank you) and a couple of new orings from home-depot. Works great now!
Thanks dude! Great video
Awesome, needed to see this. Looks very similar to my Sheridan K-series that I'll be working on soon. 😎
Great video, just got a PGP and of course it's leaking through the grip frame. Thanks
Blaise,
The wobbly piercing pin is normal on earlier piercing valve stems that don't have the brass extension over half of the piercer. The later styles with the brass extension do still wiggle but not as much.
The thing to remember is that the piercer will be using the steel valve casing as a guide so even if it wiggles it should still pierce fine. I've added a link to the piercers at the end of the video description.
Send a picture of the marker through facebook, I'll help you identify it.
Awesome video, I have an older PGP that needs a face seal.
Dan , you are my greatest idol .
Sounds like you just need a new pump rod. I have them on my site under sheridan parts and pump rods. Just look for one that is pgp length and matches your old rod. Hope that helps! -Dan
Thank you! great info. got all i needed to know. simple threaded lug.
Ok bolt is out but I snapped my pump rod flush to the pump can I solder the rod back on or am I stuck replacing the handle and rod
Oh now I understand what you mean. Yes you would likely need a new pump rod and pump handle then.
Is your co2 venting down the barrel? If so you likely need a new piercing cup seal. -Dan
Did you make sure to pump / fire the PGP after loading the 12 gram in?
They are shoot to pierce so it needs the piercer cup seal to slam forward piercing the 12 gram.
If that isn't working then you could have one of the following problems:
*Steel 12 gram face assembly is damaged preventing piercer cup seal from hitting the end of the 12 gram.
*Front grip frame screw could be too long, preventing the 12 gram from going all the way in.
*Cup seal could be non piercing version.
Let me know, -Dan
The lead seal isn't need but it doesn't hurt. I usually dont reinstall it after taking apart a valve. Palmers and Mac 1 also don't add them back in.
A light leak down your barrel is likely from the cup seal or could possibly from the valve face the cup seal is sealing on.
Are the 3 brown orings in the video? If so let me know the second mark in the video when you see them.
Or are they a part you received in a rebuild kit from Palmers?
djSinege,
I created another video showing how to cut a quick strip slot on a sheridan. I'll add it to the beginning of this video description.
In the beginning of that video (before cutting the strip slot) I remove the bolt. There are several styles of bolts with some using spring loaded lugs, thread in lugs or in the case of the PGP2k, a press fit lug. Watch that video and see if it helps. If not post on that video or message me though my site or facebook and I can try and help.
Thanks
Is the lug (underside of the bolt) still screwed in? Remove that lug to get the bolt all the way out.
I can't get mine to pump it's the same one as the video but it won't pump it's just stuck anybody know
I bought a PGP new I guess some time ago. Never took it out of the box.Go fig.
i just picked up two sheridans with veritical fed necks and co2 threads out the back. my problem is i can't figure out how to take the bolt out and clean it... been looking for a veideo or web page for days now. can anyone help me? know a video perhaps? Thanks.
hi im looking for parts to repair my own pgp, Where can i find those parts? thanks!
I removed the bolt and need to know how to get it to rotate
Wow you really know your plugs MR. CKO
what would i need to get if my pgp isent piercing the c02
I've got a very aged one, and the pumping action is really hard to start and really stiff, any idea how to fix it?
+Ryan Reid I would disassemble the pump and bolt and check your oring on the bolt and for built up gunk on the lower tube. Clean the oring or replace the oring and then clean the gunk off the lower tube (where the pump moves) and gunk inside the pump. Add a few drops of oil (I use KC Trouble Free Oil which is the same as Outlast oil now). Reassembly and see if that helps the stroke. Your hammer spring tension also plays a part in stiffness so if cleaning the pump handle area doesn't help then disassemble the back of the lower tube and see if there are any unnecessary bbs added between the back cap and hammer spring to add more tension. Depending what model you have you can also add an RVA which will allow your velocity to be able to be adjusted and reach a higher velocity with less tension on the spring. Hope that helps.
Here are bolt orings:
www.baccipaintball.com/she828.html
And RVA kits:
www.baccipaintball.com/she325.html
Thanks! Will try it out
Thanks very much! Really found this helpful :) I notice you left out the led oring, does this actually make any difference or cause any wear on the valve or locking nut? Also after replacing the seals I still have a tiny leak down the barrel, any suggestions where I've gone wrong? Oh and one last thing, what are the 3 brown orings
i have a sheridan 5mm "20cal" model EB co2 pellet pistol does this apply to it as well look very similar to the bottom half of that gun
Kyle, This guide will work for rebuilding the lower tube if your Sheridan EB uses the classic style valve.
If the EB uses the more modern Sheridan Cartridge valve (where the entire valve assembly is one piece that is is pushed out of the lower tube) then I would recommend taking a look at this guide:
How to Disassemble/Rebuild Sheridan PA-Series Paintball Marker Cartridge Valve
thank u this was extremely helpfull
Yeah unfortunately the rod broke flush to the pump handle and what could cause all of the co2 to be dumped out when pulling the trigger
Whats the deal with the rva ? I put one on my pgp and it just made it worse....even with the velocity all the way up !!
Killerkork, make sure you change to a longer spring along with the rva. Many RVAs actually extend the spring area so if you stick with your same spring and have your RVA turned all the way up your velocity will be about the same as with the stock back plug. Hope that helps! -Dan
That valve punch looks like an A.N.S. plug
I have that EXACT SAME pistol. Would you do the repair for me if I could ship it? It has a CO2 leak
The icon's idol? Tim can help you with your PGP if you can figure it out Ted!
Hi Eric Z,
I don't offer repairs but I can recommend a great airsmith that can, Tim @ Paintball Tek dot com. I will add that information into the description of the video.
Thanks,
-Dan
For in the palmers oring kit? :) thanks!
No lube?
Ok and yes that's what my gun is doing
What about the lead seal?
+Mike Daniel I always remove them. I see them as spacers since they do not actually do anything to seal air into the valve. Tim at Mac 1 also removes them.
Kool thanks ! I'm putting back together a KP and i cant find lead seals anywhere..Its been so long your video Helped! Thanks for all the info,,I'll be working 007's next week .. I found a few bodies that loo like no paint touched them!
Your "needle tools" look a lot like picks.
his voice is annoying lol just the way it sounds
NaughtyTigerIX hey that’s my voice!