Your pump is air bound you need to check your high vents , what I would do dump the loop and change out or pull each high hat/ Air vent clean out deposit. With pump off, fill loop with water standing pressure . Rule of thumb is 7 lbs per floor plus location of pump. So say this a three store building and pump are in the basement that four floor total 28psi to 35 max . Check ur relief valve on loop which max press of say 50psi . So you want stay 10psi min 40 and below. Flush out ur spiral vent air dirt separate on main loop. it will be a big difference in loop temperature and pressure. Just a couple of tech tips for a powerhouse mechanic. Also convert/ heat exchanger or boiler supply water temp should be 140 F degrees minimum with ambient temperature of 35F degrees and below air intake. Love your video, keep the high level for the hvac trade. If was easy every one would do it . Good luck. Think 💭 bigger picture when deal with industrial hvac. Who ever there building mechanic/ stationary engineering should be serious be question of what f**king there doing in a 8 hour shift per day horrible and sad😞.
What a terrible design, horrible position for a strainer. There is no thought of maintenance when a lot of these units are installed. Not surprised. Before you open to dissasemble the valve, make sure their isn't air trapped in the line and those air trap are actually working. With that amount of dirt in the line chanes are it's clogged as well.
Hot water temp is not high enough. That water temp should be 160-180. Also if there is no building return and outside air only then that will be a big factor. Also check to make sure coil is not air locked at all. And change that belt first. Do the simple stuff first. I always check belts and filters then strainers and temps in that order. Hard to tell in this video but is the building return closed and only fresh air damper open? Should be opposite in winter time generally unless the supply air setpoint is too warm
I guess letting this leak go was a very bad idea from management. Due to the leak the system automatically replenished the water somewhere. But tap water is way more aerated than the water in those systems. This causes more rust to form on the pipes, but also the microscopic bubbles burst in the pumps which causes erosion from the nearby pipes, aka. more metal dust floating in the water. In Germany where we do a lot of hydronic in floor heating etc. we install a magnet filter and a micro bubble separators to combat air and debris in the pipes causing havoc over time. If you repair this system you probably should also consider putting in some bypasses that allow back flushing of the coils. those are probably very clogged.
Excellent job , Yes those are air vents . Time to get some bigger wrenches 😂 I suggest a set of combination wrenches 3/4 to 1-1/2 in a canvas rool up ., Those bolts are usually 15/16. and yes raise the heat loop temperature, it should be on a out door reset ( automatically raising loop temperature according to out door air temperature) you are getting a good output for 110/120 loops temperature!
Back in that small hole again. Great video. You can tell Maintenance isn’t doing their job. Makes your Company look better every time you show up. Especially like how you explain every detail as you go along. 👍
Appreciate the video! 120 degree water is cold even for us down in San Diego. One thing you could do to help with flow is hook up a fitting and hose to that strainer blowdown. Then, close you supply and open that blowdown to back flush the coil. I’m sure you’ll get plenty of dirt. You could also get some fittings to attach to various points of the system to attach a pressure gauge to. That’ll tell you where your restriction in flow is.
If the heating hot water pumps are variable speed, you may have the sensing lines partially restricted or even plugged causing the control system to ramp the VFD down because it thinks the differential pressure is higher than it really is.
Ok I'll help. That is a pre-heat coil to protect the chilled water coil, you can tell this because there is a 38 degree freeze limit ran after that coil and before the next coil (chilled water coil). I saw a freq drive so I am going to assume this is a multi-zone unit but hard to say without seeing a unit print or following the duct. This hydronics system will only be as hot as it needs to be to get discharge temp to 55 degree discharge at the AHU, based off OA temp and you would probably have to look at the code. If it's a CAV using a freq drive as a soft start serving a single space, look at the set point and vwalla you're probably seeing the temp you want. If it's a multi-zone though, go to the spaces and check the re-heat at the vav boxes. But your hydronics temp is based on OA temp, without giving us that temp outside it's really hard to speculate what temp should be, and it's better to dial into the ddc program and see what's it's calling for, if it is low then check your heat exchanger off the boiler (man I am under paid). Love your videos though, you do excellent work!
Go check the boiler supply temp as what you showed of 120 deg coming in is not nearly hot enough. The pressure changes are probably caused by variable speed hot water pump.
Get yourself a garden hose to 3/4” npt adapter. You should flush that entire strainer body out using the loop water. I think raising the loop temp would be my next move.
Fixing belt will increase your airflow - discharge temp is going to drop more. My guess is still have a flow issue, try flushing coil or checking if another plugged strainer somewhere in system. 80 -100 psig on HW system is crazy.
check the fresh & return air dampers are working properly. also the coils have design td’s so sometimes slowing the water down a bit can help u get better td’s
Water temp seems a bit low. I usally see a range between 150-180. I would check HW setpoint and go from there. Also check on the pumps what are they doing?
So that system looks like its setup as VAV, due to the drive for the fan. As someone else said, that coil is a pre-heat. It should take the discharge air should be 55 degrees. Down stream on your VAV boxes, you should have reheat coils. Those reheat coils likely have V-ball ball valves with strainers. I would bet those are clogged. That’s pretty nasty loop for it being a closed loop, they must not do much for water treatment.Those “rocks” are likely welding slag BB’s. Regarding the fluctuations in pressure, it looks like their PID loop is out of adjustment. I am really surprised that they can keep that absorber running. The maintenance required to keep those leak free is really high. We call those Air Handlers. Fan Coil units are above a ceiling. Just different terminology for different areas (country wise)but means the same thing. Also, that’s the shipping wedge/bracket on the top of the door at 29:26. It’s supposed to be removed before startup. It’s meant to keep the doors centered ok during shipping.
Good job Jumper and Chris, It seems like you have gremlins controlling your heating system, just kidding, but the valve that the actuator opens and closes is probably is bad, or you have a clog some where, use a heat imager to see if there is a clog in the piping.
Hey this is a dumb question, but are you a refrigeration mechanic or hvac dude? Im looking into school for refrigeration mechanic course so im watching your videos to help me. But im not sure entierely what your profession is.
Hey, it's not a dumb question at all. Air Conditioning & Refrigeration are different industries but they are very similar. The "Refrigeration cycle" is the same for AC & Refrigeration so we are basically brothers as far as industry. I'm a HVAC/R technician. So I do Air Conditioning & Refrigeration. Mostly commercial equipment. HVAC/R (Heating, Ventilation. Air Conditioning/Refrigeration). Some people only do HVAC, some people only do Refrigeration but I happen to do both for my company. Thanks for watching!
I think if the Pumps are on VFFs, it will modulate based off of DPT heating demand for other heating coils. Maybe there’s another heating valve opening and closing.
U gotta alotta things going on. 1. Too much O.A. set OA. To less % 2. Air in hot water system. Check vents. 3. U may have another strainer in a larger line that's plugged. 4. Raise the supply air temp
with that high system pressure, why not try back flushing the strainer first, instead of taking it all apart. open the bypass, make sure the inlet valve is closed, the zone valve open and open the outlet side up. high pressure/velocity backflow through the screen and zone valve will check/clean both. granted you probably want a large hose connected to a drain or outdoors. lol, if not things will quickly get "moist" in that area. 🤣🤣
Check your water temp coming from the boilers. 3-4 degF is not much. If your dampers are full return then the only way to get more heat is boiler and pump. Doubt that control valve is the problem. If your fan is a VFD you can slow it to get more heat transfer
You def need change belt the pressures changing could be due to air in the lines. Make sure vents aint clogged with debris ive dealt with these nasty water systems a long time ago
That's what I do and use a small impact wrench with impact rated sockets. Easy peezy ;) then put Lil graphite anti seize on the bolts threads for easy tightening of the nuts, future easy disassemble and stops corrosion if the threads.
Butterfly valves are useless, they never hold so easy to get debris between the rubber specially when there not exercised. I always hammer the bolts on strainers before I start removing them seems to make a difference. Tell me a business that actually removes or services strainers, sounds like money to me!
I'm waiting for that pipe to pop. Sorry shutdown restaurant for couple days to make everything work. It will be alot more money if that pipe let's go. It's a cluster!@#$%^&
Agreed. That was determined in the end. I recommended the engineer raise the supply heat temp for the absorption chiller and we ended up getting the system to operate properly. Thank you for your input & for watching! 🔧⚡️
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Amazing leak repair..give that man a Cigar ! 😂 seriously you did an excellent job on that leak against all the odds hats off JMT well done 💯💯💯👍👍👍
Haha thank you! Some quick thinking right there Macgyver style 😂 Thanks for watching brother! 🔧⚡️
Your pump is air bound you need to check your high vents , what I would do dump the loop and change out or pull each high hat/ Air vent clean out deposit. With pump off, fill loop with water standing pressure . Rule of thumb is 7 lbs per floor plus location of pump. So say this a three store building and pump are in the basement that four floor total 28psi to 35 max . Check ur relief valve on loop which max press of say 50psi . So you want stay 10psi min 40 and below. Flush out ur spiral vent air dirt separate on main loop. it will be a big difference in loop temperature and pressure. Just a couple of tech tips for a powerhouse mechanic. Also convert/ heat exchanger or boiler supply water temp should be 140 F degrees minimum with ambient temperature of 35F degrees and below air intake. Love your video, keep the high level for the hvac trade. If was easy every one would do it . Good luck. Think 💭 bigger picture when deal with industrial hvac. Who ever there building mechanic/ stationary engineering should be serious be question of what f**king there doing in a 8 hour shift per day horrible and sad😞.
What a terrible design, horrible position for a strainer. There is no thought of maintenance when a lot of these units are installed. Not surprised. Before you open to dissasemble the valve, make sure their isn't air trapped in the line and those air trap are actually working. With that amount of dirt in the line chanes are it's clogged as well.
Hot water temp is not high enough. That water temp should be 160-180. Also if there is no building return and outside air only then that will be a big factor. Also check to make sure coil is not air locked at all. And change that belt first. Do the simple stuff first. I always check belts and filters then strainers and temps in that order. Hard to tell in this video but is the building return closed and only fresh air damper open? Should be opposite in winter time generally unless the supply air setpoint is too warm
I guess letting this leak go was a very bad idea from management.
Due to the leak the system automatically replenished the water somewhere. But tap water is way more aerated than the water in those systems. This causes more rust to form on the pipes, but also the microscopic bubbles burst in the pumps which causes erosion from the nearby pipes, aka. more metal dust floating in the water. In Germany where we do a lot of hydronic in floor heating etc. we install a magnet filter and a micro bubble separators to combat air and debris in the pipes causing havoc over time.
If you repair this system you probably should also consider putting in some bypasses that allow back flushing of the coils. those are probably very clogged.
Excellent job , Yes those are air vents . Time to get some bigger wrenches 😂
I suggest a set of combination wrenches 3/4 to 1-1/2 in a canvas rool up ., Those bolts are usually 15/16.
and yes raise the heat loop temperature, it should be on a out door reset ( automatically raising loop temperature according to out door air temperature)
you are getting a good output for 110/120 loops temperature!
Back in that small hole again. Great video. You can tell Maintenance isn’t doing their job. Makes your Company look better every time you show up. Especially like how you explain every detail as you go along.
👍
You assume these landlords or tenants even care to do maintenance. I guarantee "maintenance" doesn't exist here not as a person or a concept.
Appreciate the video! 120 degree water is cold even for us down in San Diego. One thing you could do to help with flow is hook up a fitting and hose to that strainer blowdown. Then, close you supply and open that blowdown to back flush the coil. I’m sure you’ll get plenty of dirt.
You could also get some fittings to attach to various points of the system to attach a pressure gauge to. That’ll tell you where your restriction in flow is.
If the heating hot water pumps are variable speed, you may have the sensing lines partially restricted or even plugged causing the control system to ramp the VFD down because it thinks the differential pressure is higher than it really is.
Didn't think of that. Thank you for your input & for watching! 🔧⚡️
and that bypass is sending Kooties direct to the coil
Ok I'll help. That is a pre-heat coil to protect the chilled water coil, you can tell this because there is a 38 degree freeze limit ran after that coil and before the next coil (chilled water coil). I saw a freq drive so I am going to assume this is a multi-zone unit but hard to say without seeing a unit print or following the duct. This hydronics system will only be as hot as it needs to be to get discharge temp to 55 degree discharge at the AHU, based off OA temp and you would probably have to look at the code. If it's a CAV using a freq drive as a soft start serving a single space, look at the set point and vwalla you're probably seeing the temp you want. If it's a multi-zone though, go to the spaces and check the re-heat at the vav boxes. But your hydronics temp is based on OA temp, without giving us that temp outside it's really hard to speculate what temp should be, and it's better to dial into the ddc program and see what's it's calling for, if it is low then check your heat exchanger off the boiler (man I am under paid). Love your videos though, you do excellent work!
wonder how fast that strainer might load or did load up again,
sudden good flow from your cleaning may have moved more Kooties right back in there,
Go check the boiler supply temp as what you showed of 120 deg coming in is not nearly hot enough. The pressure changes are probably caused by variable speed hot water pump.
Get yourself a garden hose to 3/4” npt adapter. You should flush that entire strainer body out using the loop water.
I think raising the loop temp would be my next move.
Fixing belt will increase your airflow - discharge temp is going to drop more. My guess is still have a flow issue, try flushing coil or checking if another plugged strainer somewhere in system. 80 -100 psig on HW system is crazy.
Pain in the butt I hate climbing all over pipes getting itching great video as always Stay safe Brother 🙏
Superb job on that filter screen ...man that was baaaaad ass 😂
Thank you! That thing was packed! 🔧⚡️🤙
Looks like the ball valve fitted to flush filter clean when drained
Tell them to get there check book out and replace this junk!!!!!!!!!!!
Superb diagnostics and cracking video ❤
check the fresh & return air dampers are working properly. also the coils have design td’s so sometimes slowing the water down a bit can help u get better td’s
Water temp seems a bit low. I usally see a range between 150-180. I would check HW setpoint and go from there. Also check on the pumps what are they doing?
the sink drain is the plumbers responsibility now hahaha
So that system looks like its setup as VAV, due to the drive for the fan. As someone else said, that coil is a pre-heat. It should take the discharge air should be 55 degrees. Down stream on your VAV boxes, you should have reheat coils. Those reheat coils likely have V-ball ball valves with strainers. I would bet those are clogged. That’s pretty nasty loop for it being a closed loop, they must not do much for water treatment.Those “rocks” are likely welding slag BB’s. Regarding the fluctuations in pressure, it looks like their PID loop is out of adjustment. I am really surprised that they can keep that absorber running. The maintenance required to keep those leak free is really high. We call those Air Handlers. Fan Coil units are above a ceiling. Just different terminology for different areas (country wise)but means the same thing. Also, that’s the shipping wedge/bracket on the top of the door at 29:26. It’s supposed to be removed before startup. It’s meant to keep the doors centered ok during shipping.
Good job Jumper and Chris, It seems like you have gremlins controlling your heating system, just kidding, but the valve that the actuator opens and closes is probably is bad, or you have a clog some where, use a heat imager to see if there is a clog in the piping.
The worst is when you do a "temporary" repair and they don't let you back to fix it until it breaks again then they act surprised.
Facts! 🔧⚡️
Hey this is a dumb question, but are you a refrigeration mechanic or hvac dude? Im looking into school for refrigeration mechanic course so im watching your videos to help me. But im not sure entierely what your profession is.
Hey, it's not a dumb question at all. Air Conditioning & Refrigeration are different industries but they are very similar. The "Refrigeration cycle" is the same for AC & Refrigeration so we are basically brothers as far as industry. I'm a HVAC/R technician. So I do Air Conditioning & Refrigeration. Mostly commercial equipment. HVAC/R (Heating, Ventilation. Air Conditioning/Refrigeration). Some people only do HVAC, some people only do Refrigeration but I happen to do both for my company. Thanks for watching!
Hope your clearing 100k without overtime
I found what works well is a small hammer. Place gasket on the part and lightly tap. Works perfectly
What’s the water supply temp. For a hydro air system the min supply water temperature should be about 150-180* pending what’s being used
with those bolts and gaskets you should hit em with a little bit of KopRKote as a thread lube and gasket seal. Helps seal and lubricate threads nicely
11:33 - _Trick_ -Tighten first then loosen the fasteners one at a time. To keep any from binding, leave them loose until all are free, then take out.
Nice work Jumper Man.
I think if the Pumps are on VFFs, it will modulate based off of DPT heating demand for other heating coils. Maybe there’s another heating valve opening and closing.
U gotta alotta things going on.
1. Too much O.A. set OA. To less %
2. Air in hot water system. Check vents.
3. U may have another strainer in a larger line that's plugged.
4. Raise the supply air temp
Your right no maintenance 😊 I would change all that stuff ! 😊😊😊
you should get a gasket hole punch set , amazing work!
Great Video. Good Job and Nice Work on those repaired. Thank you for sharing. Have a nice weekend.
Are you flowing any cold water thru the loop evaporator?
Where did you get the gasket cover from ?
with that high system pressure, why not try back flushing the strainer first, instead of taking it all apart. open the bypass, make sure the inlet valve is closed, the zone valve open and open the outlet side up. high pressure/velocity backflow through the screen and zone valve will check/clean both. granted you probably want a large hose connected to a drain or outdoors. lol, if not things will quickly get "moist" in that area. 🤣🤣
Why not brush the bolds with wirebrush and add a litle grease for the next guy?
For cutting gaskets i use hole punch way easier and they are not too expensive i got the sizes i need but there's kits too
Check your water temp coming from the boilers. 3-4 degF is not much. If your dampers are full return then the only way to get more heat is boiler and pump. Doubt that control valve is the problem. If your fan is a VFD you can slow it to get more heat transfer
You def need change belt the pressures changing could be due to air in the lines. Make sure vents aint clogged with debris ive dealt with these nasty water systems a long time ago
Do you own your own company? How do you come up with pricing on commercial jobs?
If that’s the return damper you showed closed, make sure it’s open when the fans running..
you need to carry a small propain torch for situation like this when the bolts won't budge ... heat it up for a few seconds ...
That's what I do and use a small impact wrench with impact rated sockets. Easy peezy ;) then put Lil graphite anti seize on the bolts threads for easy tightening of the nuts, future easy disassemble and stops corrosion if the threads.
I’m shocked too 😂
While you had the water shut off you could flip the strainer so it’s easier to clean next time
what.a.mission....... job good bro👍
What I miss!! Was the gasket not available?
Time
Pressure coming down flow through coil, flush pipework
Once you replace the belt will cause a higher delta t and with low water temperature?
where does all that debris come from?
Butterfly valves are useless, they never hold so easy to get debris between the rubber specially when there not exercised. I always hammer the bolts on strainers before I start removing them seems to make a difference. Tell me a business that actually removes or services strainers, sounds like money to me!
I will re locate there to New York and take
Care of that trash if the price is right, looks like plenty of work for us both
I'm waiting for that pipe to pop. Sorry shutdown restaurant for couple days to make everything work. It will be alot more money if that pipe let's go. It's a cluster!@#$%^&
Whoever designed this install should be forced to maintain it. Hotels though, almost as bad as hospitals.
Repair please🥶
No need t on replace strainer body
I hear that. Just needs to be cleaned and flushed out. Thanks for watching!
Customer needs some good chemical maintenance
loop temp sounds kind of low
Facts
@cameronboyett6386 Yup. Loop temp was low. Raised the temp on the chiller and everything started to work properly👍
Dude…. You’ve only got 120 degree water, your not going to get 120 degree SA…. Even with lower airflow with a shitty belt…. Inlet water temp must rise
Agreed. That was determined in the end. I recommended the engineer raise the supply heat temp for the absorption chiller and we ended up getting the system to operate properly. Thank you for your input & for watching! 🔧⚡️
The water needs to be hotter, 160
24:00 hot water temp should be 180f
Can you show your face in the videos
Hot water coil is full of mud.
Air is trapped somewhere
Can anyone say quality maintenance team? 😂
😻💚💜💚
💜🔧⚡️