I'm a retired 67 year old HVAC/R tech in Houston who spent over 40 years in the business. Love your work and following your videos just to stay in touch with the trade. Good work Jumper Man, keep it up.
A few tips I use , thin coat of pipe dope on the gasket surface will hold that paper oring in place ,I also use two pieces of thread rod or long bolts with the heads cut off as stubs at the three and nine o’clock position to help line up the pump/ bearings assembly . Specially useful if working by alone . Great job guys .
You're very welcome & thank you for watching/commenting. I always try to keep a good attitude regardless of the situation & always try mt best. Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️
0:46 I think you’ll want to close the bypass on that main water supply next time you’re there. Looks like the water is supposed to flow through the huge pressure reducing valve next to that last boiler. Great video as always. Your patience is unmatched 🤙🏼
Somethings wrong...Based on the position of the ball valve handles, all boilers should be getting full city water pressure. Why aren't the T&P valves blowing open on every boiler?
@@jakemilkovich1722I mentioned something about this in the first video. The reg is being bypassed, so is the reg faulty? How are the boilers still working? I bet they (the previous guys before JMT) bypassed everything in there. I can't say they're hacks because most of these companies never want to pay to fix things. 'Just make it work' mentality. Yeah, we can make it work but you're gonna end up in a worse position if you don't fix the core issue. Reporting record trillion profits but can't spare a tiny little bit of it to regularly do boiler maintenance... I'm glad JMT is here making some folks listen to sense.
Great teamwork Jumper man! Somebody is not maintaining the correct ratio of chemicals in the circulating water allowing any metal items to rust and corrode internally (Building Engineer?). They got lucky when they found you! Charge more $$$$$$$
I found that when you have gaskets such as here , I use a very thin coat of 100% hi temp red 👍silicone on the mating surfaces. It kept the placement of the gasket and insured against leaks.
You should consider using Nickel Anti Seize or Copper Anti Seize on those flange bolts and on those other pump flange bolts to make life easier in the future. Use a little silicone grease on that O ring to help hold it in place during assembly.
Great Video. Thank you for sharing. Good Job and Nice Work. Have a nice weekend. May I ask, is this motor pump is for Boiler water supply or Boiler water return ?
@Jumper Interesting that those boiler Manufacturers seem to think power is completely free when they build those boilers. In Europe they would use something like a Grundfos Magna3 that measures the back pressure and can speed up and down according to that or even maintain a differential temp. The "residential" style ones can go from 3-34W and replace a 65W non high efficiency pump. If it's not a emergency repair I'd look into that, I guess your customers could save quite some money on electricity. And sell that customer a stack of magnet filters to get most of that junk out of the system.
Why on earth is the bypass open on the regulator for the water feed? I saw you left that open on the last video aswell. That valve is designed to be normally closed, you are potentially allowing high water pressure in the domestic hot water system. What is the water pressure have you ever checked that expansion tank air charge!? Also fyi those headers should be non ferrous bronze on domestic boilers (i know thats not your fault though..)
Seems to be all fiberglass to me. Where did you notice asbestos? People point out asbestos in other videos and it's inside the same building. I'm still trying to figure out where exactly and if so. These boilers date back to 2004, but I'm not sure what was here prior to that. This building was built in 1954. Thanks for watching!
Just started watching your videos and one thing has struck me, the buildings you go to, seem to be poorly maintained. Mechanical rooms are dirty and poorly lit, things seem to be installed haphazardly and without any thought regarding the serviceability of the equipment . The building engineer and operators should be ashamed, this whole room is a disaster, and an accident waiting to happen. Cleaning up and sweeping it up does not cost much, only time and effort. I can tell that there are a lot of sites that you visit, where people who run the buildings do not seem to care. There are a lot of advantages to keeping space organized and clean. No tripping hazards, leaks are easy to spot, the liability is limited since the space is clean and well lit. It also makes it a safer place to work for maintenance staff as well as trades that perform repairs. A maintenance program to have the room cleaned and wiped down once a week goes a long way. It is safe to assume that if one mechanical room looks like this, then the rest look the same as well. Keep up good work. Cheers.
@genewheeler6320 No reason really. I have never used a sealant along with a gasket. Usually install them as is & don't have any issues. What sealant would you recommend to use?
@JumpermanTech no particular one. I just know in past gasket replacement I used a sealant. I know the make heat resistant ones. I just found it helps seat gasket better. Especially in corroded pieces I have worked. I'm just curious why you don't. I thought maybe you had a learning experience for me. I always enjoy you content . You have taught me alot. 👍
I'm a retired 67 year old HVAC/R tech in Houston who spent over 40 years in the business. Love your work and following your videos just to stay in touch with the trade. Good work Jumper Man, keep it up.
A few tips I use , thin coat of pipe dope on the gasket surface will hold that paper oring in place ,I also use two pieces of thread rod or long bolts with the heads cut off as stubs at the three and nine o’clock position to help line up the pump/ bearings assembly . Specially useful if working by alone . Great job guys .
I’ve been watching your channel for sometime now. You have a great attitude of diving headfirst into real problematic systems. Thanks for sharing
You're very welcome & thank you for watching/commenting. I always try to keep a good attitude regardless of the situation & always try mt best. Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️
Well done keep an eye on the ball and solve the problem. Pray that they pay the bill.
0:46 I think you’ll want to close the bypass on that main water supply next time you’re there. Looks like the water is supposed to flow through the huge pressure reducing valve next to that last boiler.
Great video as always. Your patience is unmatched 🤙🏼
Somethings wrong...Based on the position of the ball valve handles, all boilers should be getting full city water pressure. Why aren't the T&P valves blowing open
on every boiler?
@@jakemilkovich1722I mentioned something about this in the first video. The reg is being bypassed, so is the reg faulty? How are the boilers still working? I bet they (the previous guys before JMT) bypassed everything in there. I can't say they're hacks because most of these companies never want to pay to fix things. 'Just make it work' mentality. Yeah, we can make it work but you're gonna end up in a worse position if you don't fix the core issue.
Reporting record trillion profits but can't spare a tiny little bit of it to regularly do boiler maintenance...
I'm glad JMT is here making some folks listen to sense.
@@EyebrowsMahoney yep exactly what I thought... someone didnt want to fix the regulator so they just opened the bypass
Good job Jumper and Chris, Glad you got a new socket set.
Great teamwork Jumper man! Somebody is not maintaining the correct ratio of chemicals in the circulating water allowing any metal items to rust and corrode internally (Building Engineer?). They got lucky when they found you! Charge more $$$$$$$
Definitely up your rates.
But that would cost $$$.
Chemicals? Thats a domestic water boiler 😂 and the header on the boiler should have been spec’ed bronze not iron.
That went pretty damn smooth compared to the last video top teamwork right there
I found that when you have gaskets such as here , I use a very thin coat of 100% hi temp red 👍silicone on the mating surfaces. It kept the placement of the gasket and insured against leaks.
You finally got another socket set!
YAY!
To quote you: "That is a beautiful thing."
Now invest in some extensions.
Nice teamwork
You should consider using Nickel Anti Seize or Copper Anti Seize on those flange bolts and on those other pump flange bolts to make life easier in the future. Use a little silicone grease on that O ring to help hold it in place during assembly.
Fantastic job jmt top notch professional
Thank you my friend! 🙏🔧⚡️
Little anti seize on that pump gasket to hold it in place and will make it easier to scrape off in the future.👍
Use plumbing grease or silicone grease for I rings and gaskets works like a charm 🏁🙌
When putting those gaskets on the pumps, I always put a lite coat of rtv silicone. Nice job jumper
Interesting. Thank you for sharing & watching! 🙏🔧⚡️
Great job Jumper man.
Thank you brother! 🙏🔧⚡️
Great Video. Thank you for sharing. Good Job and Nice Work. Have a nice weekend. May I ask, is this motor pump is for Boiler water supply or Boiler water return ?
Can you say water treatment!!!!!!!!!¡!
Very much needed! Thanks for watching 🔧⚡️
There is a big difference in the impeller size of your Armstrong pump and that Taco pump on the other boiler. Maybe confirm specs before reinstalling.
@Jumper Interesting that those boiler Manufacturers seem to think power is completely free when they build those boilers. In Europe they would use something like a Grundfos Magna3 that measures the back pressure and can speed up and down according to that or even maintain a differential temp. The "residential" style ones can go from 3-34W and replace a 65W non high efficiency pump. If it's not a emergency repair I'd look into that, I guess your customers could save quite some money on electricity.
And sell that customer a stack of magnet filters to get most of that junk out of the system.
Been working residential hvac install and service for 6 years. Thinking of making the jump to commercial applications any recommendations?
Dish soap helps keep the gasket on the pump motor
super lube is food safe grease can use a little bit to hold gasket in place
Why can't an additive be placed into the system to keep rust and corrosion out?
Because it would contaminate the potable water. This is a domestic hot water system, dude.
@@plumbworker Okay, so it's not a closed loop system then?
@@JT-qf4it yes sir, its a dhw setup heating not indirect’s but standard storage tank’s.
Never Seez can be your friend later!
Sure is 😊😊😊
This is true Jim!
@@chrissmith513 💯
Why on earth is the bypass open on the regulator for the water feed? I saw you left that open on the last video aswell. That valve is designed to be normally closed, you are potentially allowing high water pressure in the domestic hot water system. What is the water pressure have you ever checked that expansion tank air charge!? Also fyi those headers should be non ferrous bronze on domestic boilers (i know thats not your fault though..)
You oh should just smack the bearing assembly try night off that impeller housing. Leave that cast iron volute on the boiler
6:33 -- I notice a couple of instances - in other jobs - a crow bar would have come handy -- just saying ... another great vid .. thanks ...
I bet he has one in the van , But the van is probably 12 stories down and 5 blocks away .
Put the gasket on the volute instead on the bearing assembly. It wont move on you
Good tip. Thank you & thanks for watching!
😻💚💜💚
💜🔧⚡️
Man it does seem like this place is falling apart. How old is this building?
Boilers don't look that old. Lack of water treatment causing everything to rust.
Talk about confined spaces 😢😢😢
It was definitely a tight one. Thanks for watching! 🔧⚡️
Reminds me of that duct scene in Die Hard!!!😂😂😂😂
Never seize my friend. Guaranteed little Kroil and 1 hit with a heavy dead blow would
Losen the impeller been there many a day..
They need there feed water chemistry fixed, bet they’re doing it at all!
Need a breaker bar
Everything here looks like it was made out of asbestos and tears. How old is this whole installation you figure?
Seems to be all fiberglass to me. Where did you notice asbestos? People point out asbestos in other videos and it's inside the same building. I'm still trying to figure out where exactly and if so. These boilers date back to 2004, but I'm not sure what was here prior to that. This building was built in 1954. Thanks for watching!
This place is cursed 😂😂😂💯👍👍👍
That place is F.U.B.A.R.
What does that stand for? Thanks for watching!
@@JumpermanTech
F#¢k€d Up Beyond All Recognition.
The word is "Fubar" pronounced: Foo-bar.
Just started watching your videos and one thing has struck me, the buildings you go to, seem to be poorly maintained. Mechanical rooms are dirty and poorly lit, things seem to be installed haphazardly and without any thought regarding the serviceability of the equipment . The building engineer and operators should be ashamed, this whole room is a disaster, and an accident waiting to happen. Cleaning up and sweeping it up does not cost much, only time and effort. I can tell that there are a lot of sites that you visit, where people who run the buildings do not seem to care. There are a lot of advantages to keeping space organized and clean. No tripping hazards, leaks are easy to spot, the liability is limited since the space is clean and well lit. It also makes it a safer place to work for maintenance staff as well as trades that perform repairs. A maintenance program to have the room cleaned and wiped down once a week goes a long way.
It is safe to assume that if one mechanical room looks like this, then the rest look the same as well. Keep up good work. Cheers.
Those laars boilers are garbage
& so I hear! Thanks for watching 🔧⚡️
You an Christian under pressure lol take it easy on him he's your right wing
Great job guys. Just a question?
Why did you not use any sealant. Because of heat??
Thank you! Any sealant for what exactly? Thanks for watching!
@JumpermanTech for the gaskets sorry.
The one hooking the header to the boiler then pump to header.
I'm just curious
@genewheeler6320 No reason really. I have never used a sealant along with a gasket. Usually install them as is & don't have any issues. What sealant would you recommend to use?
@JumpermanTech no particular one. I just know in past gasket replacement I used a sealant. I know the make heat resistant ones.
I just found it helps seat gasket better. Especially in corroded pieces I have worked. I'm just curious why you don't. I thought maybe you had a learning experience for me. I always enjoy you content . You have taught me alot. 👍