BRIGGS AND STRATTON CARBURETOR REPAIR / GAS SHOOTS OUT OF MUFFLER / CRANKCASE FULL OF GAS
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- JEREMY FOUNTAIN
THEMOWERMEDIC1
MAIL AND BUSINESS INQUIRES THEMOWERMEDIC1@GMAIL.COM
/ themowermedic1
/ themowermedic1
/ themowermedic1
/ themowermedic1
CHECK OUT TREY DRIVER AND HIS AWESOME TH-cam CHANNEL AND DEALERSHIP
TREY DRIVER
BIG BUCK MOWERS AND EQUIPMENT
3301 STATE HIGHWAY 121
BONHAM TEXAS 75418
www.BIGBUCKMOWERS
/ treydriver1
/ bigbuckmowers
/ bigbuckmowers
-~-
IS GAS FLOODING YOUR CRANKCASE? IF SO ITS TIME TO REPLACE THE FAULTY NEEDLE AND SEAT IN THE CARBURETOR
![[TH] VALORANT Champions Seoul - Grand Final - EDG vs TH](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WvObMc9VelI/mqdefault.jpg)
I used this video as a guide as I never touched one of these carbs. Pretty solid walkthrough. I was expecting to use the entire rebuild kit, not just a few pieces. The hardest part was getting the seat out. I used a few different wood screws and finally found one that was just right. Mower starts a lot easier now and doesn't shoot oil/fuel everywhere. Thanks!
Great informational video and very helpful. I have a John Deere rider mower with a 16 hp Briggs and Stratton engine. After several weeks of not running I attempted to start it but it was locked up and would not turn over when I attempted to start it. I removed the spark plug and fuel poured out of the spark plug hole. There was also a heavy fuel odor on the crankcase dip stick and the level was high. When I removed the air filter the housing was also filled with fuel. After watching your video I removed the carb and applied pressure to the fuel inlet. It would not hold any pressure so I am going to rebuild the card and replace the needle and seat. Thank you for making this video, I have a feeling it is going to save me a lot of money by not having to bring the mower to the local repair shop. Thanks again, very good video!
Thanks for the video. It just saved me. Running perfect now.
It's always good to replace the seat. I have found some engines struggling to run at full power due to the seat being old and swollen and actually restricts fuel at full throttle. It may idle fine but when more fuel is needed , the engine will run lean and misfire. The seat also, as the video states, can leak the fuel in the tank, into the engine crank case or combustion chamber. You can damage the piston rod when it leaks into the chamber due to hydro lock when you try to start it.
Thanks for the great explanation, I now understand why my engine is barfing fuel and oil out the carb!
Such a great video. My B&S engine spits black oil out the exhaust and won't stay running. Working on the valves now and have a new gasket set on the way. Gonna look into the needle and seat as well. Thank you.
I was wondering how I was going to pull that seat, with out fn up the carb. You posted this right in time Thanks Good job on the video
Thank U, very helpful to us older that are not familiar with pressing in parts!
Best vid of its kind I have seen. Thanks so much!
First time here.
First time I’ve ever see the carb disassembled bowl up like that.
Great idea!
I’ll be back!
Didn’t know there was any other way? Thanks for watching.
Thank you very much I thought that was the problem I took the motor off and replaced the seal on top and bottom the cam looked very good the valves looked to operating correctly and I adj them when I put it back on the mower it cranked right up I always put a cutoff switch and filter on my mowers I had saw a clip on you tube where the exhaust seat was coming out I thought that was the problem but now I
Sure it the float thanks
I've learned a lot from you and watch all your videos. Thank you and keep up the good work. Michigan
Thanks for the help.
VERY HUMID HERE IN TEXAS!
Yes sir i did, Soaked it in Berryman dip for about an hour as well.
I fixed the gas leak into the block years ago. I put a cutoff valve in the gas line, cut the valve off when I'm finished and let the mower run dry.
Yeah but if the needle and seat is leaking bad enough it could flood while running / idling
If running/idling it would blow it out through the exhaust. I would then paint a mongoose and snake on it and join "Big Daddy" Don Garlits racing! :)
Made a tool today. Went to local metal shop, 8” 3/8 brass rod was 3.00. Cut off 2.5 “ with a cut off wheel. I don’t have a lathe, so I chucked in the drill press , and holding the grinder at a right angle, trimmed it down. I don’t have. Briggs with
I don’t have a Briggs carb with a brass seat handy, so I just eyeballed it. Maybe it will work, maybe not, but it was fun doing it. I don’t know the dimensions of the tool, can’t find them on line. If anyone has dimensions, please post.
Thanks,
Jim
After trouble shooting the NIKKI flooded carburetor, running rich problem with my 10.5 I/C Intek Briggs and Stratton engine, I found the problem: the round o-ring of item 137A, after 6 years of service, compressed into a rectangular cross section. It is supposed to be a typical O-ring with a round cross section. I replaced the O-ring with one that was close in size because that was what I had available. It started right up and ran fine. I hope this will help someone from replacing the Float Needle, Float, Main Jet, etc. Good Luck!
like we have thin snap-on wrenches just lying around... some of us aren't made of money to just have crazy expensive tools like that... i guess i got to grind a good wrench now...
I have been working on this product suite, welcome friends to consult
Hey Jeremy, It's nice to see you helping all us back yard mechanics! My daughters 22 horse B+S Intec engine has several issues. I got it to run with new Battery. Now the Fuel system seems to be part the problem. Engine won't rev up just idles, runs rough and it back fired last time I shut it down. I pull the throttle back and forth still just idles and choke doesn't change because it's not working either? How is this linkage supposed to work? I have carb apart and will get repair kit, but all is looking good inside? I have yet to force air in passages. Thanks for any help. Ron B.
Like Jeremy texted in the video. Install a paper fuel filter, fuel shut off valve and NO ethanol fuel. And change that nasty filthy dirty assed oil. Only takes a whopping 1.5 quarts for a rider and 18-20 oz for a pushy.
serial # for carb is idetified on Briggs website it is on plate on motor usually near muffler good video shows tillers mowers etc...
THANKS!
I generally just buy a new aftermarket carb instead of buying a kit. It's cheaper and simpler to change the whole carb. An aftermarket carb for any riding mower is anywhere from $10 to $14 on Amazon or Ebay. Just search your particular part number.
I don't usually buy an entire kit. Needle&seat and a bowl kit for about 13 dollars
Great repair…👍👍
Thank you for this excellent video - I am needing to be more self sufficient and handle more repairs on my own and your video is extremely helpful. I have a question that is so basic that I actually can't find an answer to it. I had the stuck carbureter needle and now i need to drain the gas it out of my crankcase - is it as simple as draining the oil out? I have the 28M707 (0122) - can you confirm what I need to do to drain the gasoline? Thank you so very much for your time. -Kathy
Good tutorial mate :-)
Like the extraction method, clever :-)
Looks like its in damp conditions, the flywheel and ignition module rust.
you have check valve issues with the high speed jet....pretty much a new carb....did you blow it out with compressed air?
I forgot to take a picture of the linkage before I removed it can you take a close up on how the throttle linkage and the other linkage looks correctly replaced Thanks
Thanks Jeremy
Bruce
Good video, great explanation, you do it right! Thanks!
the kits for these carbs are about $50 and the whole carb is about $90, I usually replace the carb when working on them
I am working on a Murray rider with a Nikki carb on a Briggs 28V707-1113-E1 engine. It is flooding like the one you showed. I cannot figure out how to remove the seat, appears to be different than the one you showed.
Thanks
Tony
Port Hadlock, WA
Im having problems with my briggs 20 hp rider. It was running good one day and the next it starts surging. It doesnt smoke or anything it just surges to the point where it doesn't run anymore. Pulled carb off, cleaned it but didn't see any build up or junk in the carb.
+Dennis Manvell Dennis,
you're not getting gas IMO. check your gas cap. if the vent is blocked it will not allow air in to displace the used gas. This creates a suction at your carb and it'll starve. pop the cap off & cover it with a rag etc., then start your mower & see what happens.
Very helpful. Thank you very much
If you install an inline fuel shutoff valve and run the mower empty...you'll have less chance of this happening later on. It used to be "never remove all the fuel from your system" just add stabilizer...but with today's fuels that degrade fast...its better to be dry.
you did not hold the old carburetor the same way you did the new one to test it the same way ?
I have a lawnmower that has a flooded engine and I replaced the seat and needle. It also has an automatic choke. Why would that be happening?
COOL DUDE!
Hi thanks for the video what if gas vapors spray out of carburetor when cranking Briggs n Stratton 12 HP
ouch! never ever ever ever soak a 2 stroke carb in barrymans as it will murder the rubber check valves inside the carb......yup now that you have told me that bit of info i am sure you need a new carb now
There were more parts in the rebuild kit. What are those and should/how do I use them?
This info is the best I've seen. Thanks for doing this.
Multiple model kit. I save them but can be discarded
Got it. Thanks. Easy fix.
THANK YOU SO MUCH :) This helped me out a ton! Thanks.
hey im having some trouble with my lawnmower carb , wondering if u can give me some advice to fix it . thanks
Put a shut off valve in the gas line before or after filter. Shut off after each use. Winter storage shut valve off and run engine until gas out the carburetor. Problem solved.
Larry G that’s just a bandaid and not a fix. Just fix it right the first time
Sorry, all I can afford is a band aid. But because of you I can fix the problem when I have no other choose. THANKS
I have taken my carb off TWICE & cleaned the float bowl & blew it out & flushed with CVarb cleaner & reinstalled it ............. and STILL it wont start without starting fluid ......... And when its sitting, the little black rubber tube vaccuum I think ...... drips gas. ........ I always thought the Seats were a small rubber gasket kind of thing. ..... I pray I dont have to remove this carb yet Again,this is starting to suck.
Hi Jeremy. I have the same carb on the same engine but after I do the carb overhaul it still leaks gas into the manifold. Now one BIG difference with you carb in the video and mine is the whole seat assembly on mine is plastic. No seat ring no nothing! At first it leaked gas into the oil. Fixed that by fixing the seat. It was drooping down. Used a blow dryer to soften up the plastic and gently fixed the arm. But still, how can I fix this leak if the whole assembly is plastic. Frustrate Tony. Thanks for a great video.
Great video.
I have a craftsman riding lawn more with Briggs and Stratton 18hp intec engine with walbro carb. I am going to put a kit and am going to take everything including fuel/air mixture screw out to soak carb in carb cleaner. Can you tell me how to adjust fuel air mixture screw when I put it back together. I am good on everything else. And would you happen to have an online video showing this procedure.
Thanks. Jerry.
Your calling that brass looking peace the seat, right ? Is that something that normally wears out ? So does the needle have a rubber tip ? On some mowers they have a little round rubber washer that fits into the carburetor. Its got a hole in it so the needle can let the gas pass through. I have not worked on one like your showing here.
I am working on a Briggs 17.5 OHV, POS and no matter how I adjust the screws it surges. When I run it at full throttle it runs ok, not great. Just replaced the head gasket and set the valves. I am thinking I may have to rebuild the carburetor. Got any suggestions ?
I replaces my Carburetor and now my muffler is getting really hot and blowing smoke out what did I do wrong
Sir, I'm thinking you have nailED what is happening to my Murry , I could not believe all the fluid that came out of machine. I wasn't sure if it was oil or gasoline or both. I got the head off right now. I really didn't see a problem with the head gasket. But the carburetor was really wet inside and kind of think something wrong there and needs investigating. I saw a video "how fix 90% of the lawn mores with problem" (or something like that) In the video they cut the plunger on the Solenoid thats n the bottom of carburetor bowl to stop backfiring I think. Well I did look at that and well either a mechanic or previous owner already cut that plunger off on the solenoid on mine. So now I wondering is that solenoid part directly involved with that seat that you fixed or is that another inlet or jet?
It would have been nice if you had videoed getting the carburetor off of the engine. Can you do that? I haven't the slightest idea how. THanks.
Good video.
Oh Damn !! I did not know that ! thanks for the advice... Maybe you could do a video on that as far as not using it for the two stroke carbs bro. FML..lol
I can't stop my newer style carbs from hunting even after cleaning. (reving up and down) Will not run smooth unless I partially choke the carb.
I have a 21 hp briggs doing same thing ? Seem like it may be running lean. Did you figure out what it was.
No these carbs today don't have the adjustments they use to have. They are almost a throwaway to me. I really don't have an answer and can't get an answer that I agree with.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Question?.I have a 12hp Briggs & Stratton engine on a Craftsman riding mower and it sputters and acts like it wants to cut off when I'm cutting semi-tall grass or thick patches of grass. I cleaned the carb, reattached the linkage correctly and it still does it. It also does it when I'm just riding in high speed without the blades engaged. Any suggestions?...Thanks...great vid's by the way
excellent video
I have a Craftsman LT1000 with a Nikki carb that has been cleaned thoroughly and is getting fuel into the bowl.The gas is new. I have a good strong spark, The valves are lashed correctly, and it has plenty of compression. It will not start, unless I put gas into the cylinder, and then it will only run on the gas I put in. It also does the same if I spray starter fluid into the throat of the carburetor. It seems as though the gas is not getting drawn out of the carburetor. I am stumped on this one. Any thoughts?
Just did the same repair!
I know the black goes to fuse where does the red wire connect to
Hey great video! I have a B & S 5 HP on a tiller thats been kicking my butt. When I start it, with starting fluid otherwise it won't start, it dies after like 2 seconds. Well I cleaned up the carb and went to change the oil and BAMMM....looks like milk. So I take the bowl back apart and the little red rubber gasket under the needle looks like it might need replaced. Does this come in a 5 HP rebuild kit?
I have an older craftsman b&s electronic ignition rototiller the red cord that is screwed into by gas tank what does it connect to?
Good video. I have been have fits with a B&S engine, model # 283H07-0399-E1 with a Nikki carb. The crankcase keeps flooding. I have replaced the float, float pin, needle, bowl, and bowl gasket yet the throttle body continues to fill up. There isn't a seat for the needle to sit in so that's something I couldn't replace. The carb has been cleaned, recleaned, and then recleaned again about two more times. I have also tested the fuel solenoid and it is working as it should be. I pulled the air filter and air intake pipe off today and opened the in-line fuel valve (I put one in along with new fuel lines) and found that gas is pouring out of the atmospheric vent on the carb. Can you recommend something I can check? Think maybe I bought a faulty needle?
Thanks again for your help.
My Briggs and Stratton lawnmower engines air intake where the air filter is fills up with gas and i dont know why.
Purchased this to replace a guide pulley th-cam.com/users/postUgkxO9seYZjlnuP5UvMkb7osQW3WxPVeSnPk on our John Deere x304 snowblower. As I stated in the title, it is just about perfect. The stock pulley has a spacer at the bottom. I used four washers to emulate said spacer, and it works perfectly now. Great product, and great price especially if compared to typical JD prices.
Quick question whats that lil do dad at the bottom of the carb with the wire connector? a buddy of mine has a 12.5 pull behind mower.. strted pouring gas out like no tomorrow... but im curious about the lil part because his has no wire connected to it and no wire to be found to connect to it..
Great video. Do you have the part numbers of the two different size seats?
Hey do u know t bone at Raileys small engines?? He's got a cool channel like you do
Where did you get the air pump to test the needle and seat?
I have this problem! i found gas in my oil. carb is in my lap, while watching your helpful Video. Do you think you could show us the proper way of take off the linkage and reinstall, cause mine came off one end and Damit i didnt see wich way it was.
allthumbsdiy.com/power-tools-2/fast-and-easy-fix-for-your-generac-wheelhouse-5500-5550-portable-generator-part-2
Hello sir,
I have a Briggs on my generator and my issue is gas is running out of the carb after starting and it died.
So, i turned the gas off at the line and waited a while before starting again, now i have it on level ground it started but now it stuttering as if it wants to shut off.
Now when i turn the gas supply line off to the carb while it's running and it runs great...... I'm scratching my head over here. Can you assist in any way.
Thanks in advance.
Can you do a pressure test with the carburetor bolted to the engine?
I HAVE SEVERAL VIDS CHECK THEM OUT ;)
How do you remove the choke plate and shaft on one of these? My throttle plate has screws that hold the plate to the shaft. No problem to remove it. The choke plate has no screws to the choke shaft. There has to be a trick to removing it? The carb is a Briggs Walbro 5-4993
Thanks in advance.
pull the plate out of the slot with needle nose pliers. he does not show this even though he has the new spring to go on it. pull the plate out - pull the shaft out - replace the spring and foam
- put the shaft back in.....remember how you pulled it out.....push the plate back in
Can you point me to a carb adjust video of yours or tell me how for a B&S 18hp OHV Intec on a CM LT1000? Thanks for sharing.
was this a Nikki carb or the walbro? if it wasn't the Nikki is it the same procedure for that one ? i've got a lt2000 having this same issue. i also have to adjust the valves on it
I HAVE A TROY-BUILD BRONCO THAT IS DOING THE SAME THING WHATS THE PRICE TO GET IT REPAIRED BALL PARK PRICE? TY
I have on on a snapper it's A Nikki and it bench tests fine the minute I mount it on the engine it floods the crankcase I am beyond agrivated I have rebuilt it twice with all new parts including float and plastic float holder that snaps into the carburetor any ideas or replace it
I work on small engines but I have one that has me stumped. I have a Subaru 7 HP EX21 that's on a pressure washer. I have wore this thing out trying to fix it. It is leaking gas into the cylinder and filling the crankcase. The brass seat in the carb is perfect and I even polished it with a Q-tip in a drill with some metal polish. the needle is new, the float bowl is good. It still leaks gas into the cylinder and into the crankcase. I have tested this carb on the work bench with it mounted in a vise with a fuel tank hooked up to it and it doesn't leak. Put it back on the engine and it leaks. What the hell is going on??>
Carb vent obstructed when everything is mounted up to the engine check that first then I'd lean toward needle and seat.
Great vid. Where is the carb vent in these Nikki, I have a Yam F4a outboard with that carb that overflows at the top plate. There are two gaps in the gasket. These may be for venting?
What are the diameters of the orifices in the seats for the two different applications?
No idea. Big hole = gravity flow small hole = fuel pump
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 Thanks for replying, but I am interested in what "big" and "small" are. I am trying to get an 11 HP B&S engine with an unknown history running. It starts and runs OK at light load, but it seems to be starving for fuel when loaded. I bypassed the shut off valve and fuel filter with new hose to the gas tank for testing and saw no improvement. The carburetor is an aftermarket model, and one possibility is that the inlet seat is for a model having a fuel pump. So the sizes would be useful to compare with what I have.
I have measured three inlet seats that should be gravity flow, and a #48 drill (0.076 inch) could be inserted in them
is there a certain size wood screw you used there
I ordered a brand new carburetor for my B&S 17.5HP engine. I have a wet spark plug with gas and gas is spilling from the carb. Did I receive a bad carb. Or do I need to do an adjustment on the new carb?
New gas lines and fuel filters?
Personally with the inexpensive cost of carburetors, it's actually cheaper to buy the entire carburetor versus the kit. Pop the old one off and pop the new one on. Done. lol
Yeeeeeeep
Hey man i got a question.i got a 92 murray 17 hp when i'm mowing i gotta work the choke back to close before it will stay running especially if the grass is a little high do you know what could cause this problem? thanks
My float valve needle is stuck in the seat. How can I free it so I may remove the float without destroying the Float.
CMV
Do you have a video about NIKKI carbs doing this? NIKKI carbs drive me crazy.
LOL, after the 2nd incident with this trash I converted my mower to propane, I WON'T ever have a mower that isn't converted to propane !
Hey mowermedic1 I’m working on a Kohler engine that pops while is running leaks little gas from mofletes. I already cleaned carburetor still doing the same. It’s a bandit stump grainier with a kohler engine command 624cc any idea what it would be?
Replace
The carb with OEM
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 I will do that. Thank you
I have a 12.5 Briggs engine in a rider mower that I bought for $40.00 only it didn't have a carburetor. I'd like to find an inexpensive carb for it and even considering finding a donor motorcycle carb. Do you have any suggestions? The Briggs model# is 289707 type:0154-01. I think the carb that belongs to this engine is a Walbro 5-4993 LMT? Anyway, I'd appreciate suggestions and/or sources for an inexpensive solution. Thanks
most times you can get a new carburetor about the same price as a carb kit slap on a new carb less time on the repair smaller bill ''custermers like that''''
mower medic I'm having a issue similar to this video my Murray 12.5 Briggs it's shooting gas by the Grove out of the exhaust and it will not start due to this issue. do I need to replace the carb or rebuild it.
I have a 16.5 hp what seat and needle part numbers do I need murray select 42
Jeremy i have s stihl fs85 weed eater how can i find the fuel line hose part number? I want to order a new one online but i want to make sure i get the right one. Thanks
LOL I know that buddy I was talking about not using Berrymans
got it thanks im ordering it
@THEMOWERMEDIC1 ...AUGUST 16, 2020... long shot because this vid is old. Also I see you don't reply much in this vid. Or to any of my stuff on your vids. I attempt to ask below and or challenge anyone With a solve and why. Every vid I see no one can answer or for most part is blank in reply. That is when many ask ( like in this vid ) about continue issue of flood. So, I have same setup as you. Same engine BUT my carb is Nikki-799727 original factory on Briggs motor. That carb floods in crank. Rebuilt with cheap kit and still floods. Brought another Nikki original used and floods. Rebuilt with after market kit and floods. Third, brought a used Nikki original again and floods. Rebuilt it with aftermarket kit and floods. So, keep in mind this carb the seat is the whole plastic insert. Needle sits down in a bare round tube. When I say rebuild I mean full clean, full hole brush clean. Needle, seat, main jet and bowl gasket. All O rings replaced and fuel mix screw replace ajusted to 1 and half turn out. New fuel line, gas tank flushed and gas filter 493629 on it. Also gas shut off valve. Flooding I mean steps as- start engine upon gas shut valve open. Starts, after few cranks. Runs smooth on low and high for 15 sec. Engine dies. Air filter tube has gas in it, oil has gas in it. Shut valve off and restart and once engine clears runs fine. ONLY for 15 sec and repeats issue. Three carbs, rebuilds and clean, 90 oct no eth gas. Floods to crank bad. Any takers who have the answer to all but this one? Every vid seems they have the answer of this needle and seat replace even on my Nikki carb. At least for speaking of my carb there is more to it to solve. And yes, all the back fire inserts on bowl bottom check out fine. A simple seat and needle is a no go. Many have the issue I do even putting new carbs on at the gate and flood. Riddle me that one..... The end result... After spending a month and many hrs at no luck I am waiting on a cheap China carb. Of which is my LAST option I wanted and first time on a cheap carb. I thought to try for myself and more money wasted I assume. For I got a gut feeling it still will flood.... I am not holding my air but, I wonder if I change to a seat that you can take out that is not all plastic may help. What is the link to the carb you show in vid or part number?