120V works surprisingly well. I’ve got neighbors that just use 120V for their PHEVs and BEVs. They don’t even have garages, they just string the charging cord thru a tree to drop down at street level to their car.
The common 120v outlet is a NEMA 5-15 ( 15A peak and 12A continuous) which is shown in this video. If that 120V outlet is fed by 12-2 wire and a 20amp breaker, the outlet can be changed to a NEMA 5-20, which will allow 20A peak and 16A continuous current; this is a cheap upgrade and will boost charging speed by 1/3. You'll need a NEMA 5-20 plug for the charger. If the outlet has 12-2 wire and a 15A breaker, the breaker can be changed to a 20A 120v breaker. If the outlet is on it's own circuit (no other outlets or loads) then the breaker can be changed to a 15A (14-2 wire) 240V and the outlet to a NEMA 6-15 or to a 20A (12-2 wire) 240V breaker and a NEMA 6-20 outlet, with the appropriate plugs and charger the car can then charge at a continuous 12A/240v (NEMA 6-15 outlet) or 16A/240v (NEMA 6-20 outlet).
1.44kw(12a 120v, Level 1) #1 1.92kw(16a 120v, Level 1) #2 3.84kw(16a 240v, Level 2) #3 For anyone who wants the math worked out for power. #3 is 2.66x #1 #1 is 75% of #2. That means that swapping an outlet(if the wires can handle it) would result in 25% increase in power and also charge speed.
I did this for my leaf. Standard 20A breaker 12-2 wire. Pulled the outlet out and installed a new 20A outlet. Context I drive 100 miles a day, which uses my entire battery, so I need it at 100 every morning.
Chevy Bolt does not allow 120V 16 Amp. It has settings for L1 8 and 12 Amps. The 12 Amp setting reverts to 8 every 3 months with no warning or notification. Truly dumb lawyer engineering.
Same. I’ve been driving my MME using only L1 since Oct 2023 and I’ve got the car set to only charge in off-peak hours from 7pm to 7am. Only occasionally do I drive enough that it doesn’t charge back up overnight or over a couple of nights. It’s still super convenient and I haven’t needed to spend the money to get a 240V outlet run up to my garage.
I have a F150 lightning, and my daily drive is around 50-60 miles, depending on the route i take. (Gym in morning and then I drop off my wife at work, we're single vehicle household). I charge exclusively on 120V, 20amp. Based on efficiency (i get anywhere from 2.5 to 1.9 mi/kWh), I lose a tiny bit of charge over the week, which gets recovered first thing on weekends. Also, reason for losing charge is NOT slow charging, but rather charging during super off-peak hours, which is 10pm - 4am. My rates for the weekend are the same till Sunday midnight, so i essentially recover the charge sometime by Saturday evening/night. Now, i do have access to 240v charger, via a smart charger which slows or stops charging when my washing machine would be running. (This is now useless as we recently got all in one unit which actually needs 120v). The reason I've been using 120V is, is the easiest and closest, and also makes it easy to park the truck without running over the wires. I got a quote to move my 240v outlet in a way to bring it closer and on another wall, not very cheap. So, as long as kids don't turn 16, at which I'll get them a beater ev, i can live with this.
Charlie. I love your style, but PLEASE be aware of this IT'S VERY IMPORTANT. That dryer plug is not of a high enough grade for charging an EV. It's highly likely to overheat, especially if it's as old as the rest of the electrical fittings appear to be. ALSO regularly unplugging and plugging in again with the dryer plug will definitely cause that 240v outlet to fail quicker. Dryer plugs cost about $10, you'll need to pay at least $65 to get an industrial quality outlet that will cope with the constant heat passing through it.
Also important is to not use the fuse box breaker as an alternative to unplugging and plugging in again. Standard breakers are not designed to cope with regular use and could also cause issues in the long term. Most EV fire issues in the home are caused by unsuitable electrical connections.
I've been using a regular 120V plug for 12 years :) 10 years with a Nissan LEAF and about 2 years with an ioniq 5. I drive about 800-1000 miles a month, and being in Florida our electricity is basically a flat 11 cents per kwh all day and night. I don't think I'll ever need a 240V charger.
One thing to keep in mind if your electricity is expensive, L1 charging is less efficient than L2. For L2 roughly 90% of energy pulled from socket makes it to the pack. For L1 roughly 80% of energy makes it to the pack.
@@TNitroH although in comparison to only getting at MOST 40% of the energy out a gallon of gasoline it’s still better. Most cars not doing better than 30-35%.
Does the bolt have a battery thermal management system for charging when below freezing, and if so how much power does that need when it is REALLY cold outside to keep the battery warm enough to charge and does that affect the charge times or amount of distance recovered overnight?
Mine gets about 150 miles in extreme cold weather vs 250 in the summer. If you keep it plugged in, it usually stays warm enough during the winter to not be too bad, but if you leave it freezing overnight and not plugged in, the DC fast charging will be very slow. On an average day though, if you plug in at night and go for a long drive, it’ll charge decently fast at a DC fast charger. If you do more than one DC fast charging session in a day, it’ll usually start getting warm and have usual charging speeds. If you plug in with a level 1 charger, it’ll still gain charge, but not as fast in the deep cold, on a level 2, it’ll easily give it a full charge no matter how cold it is!
@42069SWAG but 120V at 12 amps is only 1500 watts or 1.5kw. at 6 miles per kWh on a 10 hour charge assuming no losses that's only 90 miles... How would you ever possibly get 250?
It does and it has minimal impact on charging speed however when pre heating your car before leaving for the day a L1 can't keep up with the power draw so you might loose a percentage warming up your cabin before leaving for the day
@@KiRiTO72987 If a level one charger can't keep up with it to precondition before leaving how does it keep up with it overnight? I live in an area that gets to -20C overnight and would hate to wake up with less charge than I started when I'm expecting an extra 75-90 miles overnight.
When I owned my EUV, I found it EASILY maintained range from a 115v plug even with my 60 mile work round trip in the warmer months. Never tried it during Michigans December/January/February season though. I only owned it Feb-Oct in ‘23 as it was a needed tax break for me that year. Sold it just before the electric car value crash. My biggest gripe with the EUV was the brake light situation. I didn’t feel the brake light location was properly engineered and I worried about getting rear-ended in close traffic, and I didn’t feel like tearing the back end apart to add diode circuits to energize the higher tail lights when the brakes were applied.
I totally agree, the blinkers as well. There are a lot of bolts around us here, and I was just following one off the highway yesterday and thinking the same thing. Very strange decision on Jim's part
Charlie, Note: The AC charger is in the vehicle. The "EVSE" = Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment is just a smart electric power cord. The maximum level two charge rate is determined by the vehicle onboard AC charger. Some people will buy an 11.5 kw or 48 amp 240 volt EVSE, and find the vehicle only has a 7.5 kw onboard AC charger. 😊. Nice video.
I realize this isn't the point of this video but you can get a NEMA plug Y splitter and extension cord to run 240V out to the driveway for less than $100. if I finally decide to get an EV, I'll run a 240V extension cord out to my garage from the laundry room in my apt because I have no access to the breakers for the 120V outlets and my work commute is almost 100 miles round trip. Yes, running a safe amperage level on 120V is especially important because you're gonna have that plugged in most of the time you aren't driving it. Someone in my building had a Model Y and they ran an orange 120V extension cord out to the car and it was always plugged in - far from an ideal charging situation.
We love our 22 bolt. No problems after 25,000 miles. I actually like the front cameras being on in tight parking lots. But if you don't want it to do that. Go from reverse to park to drive vs going straight from reverse to drive. We used L1 for the first 4 months we owned an EV. We now have a L2 but it's only a 3.3kw charger and it works great. People don't need the fastest charge when it can people can charge overnight.
That unit looks suspiciously similar to the Vevor EVSE that I have. I ran mine at 120v @ 16A on a 120V 20A circuit and it ran very hot. So I backed it off to 13A and it runs cool as a cucumber now.
Technically, you aren't supposed to run more than 15A through a NEMA 5-15 receptacle. The 20A circuit rating is intended to be split between both outlets at the very least with neither exceeding 15A. For 16A, you are supposed to use 5-20 outlets and plugs.
We bought a Model Y long range and only had a 120v outlet in the garage. I said "lets try it for a month and see if it's not keeping up". Its been a year and honestly its been fine. My commute is only about 35 miles and even when we take a longer trip and come back with a lower charge, it might take a couple days to get back up to 80% but we always have enough to commute un errands. People love to complain about how installing level 2 might cost 1/3/5k but a lot of people might not even need it...
Love this information. A EV would work for 99% of my car needs but I would only have access to a 120 volt outlet. Have often wondered if that would work sufficiently.
Especially if you have a NEMA 5-20 outlet (looks like a regular outlet but has a sideways slot in the left prong) and can charge at 15A instead of the 12 available from a bog standard NEMA 5-15
The key is to get BEV that is efficient enough for your daily commute and the amount power you're using throughout the day is what lv1 charging can replenish overnight
My 23 Bolt came with a free 240V plug installed by GM. Had to live with L1 for a couple of months until the logistics got worked about, but I've got to sayi having the L2 charging available brings with it a lot of flexibility.
4:37 It's higher voltage because it's directly charging the battery. Level 1 and 2 rely on an onboard charger to take the AC and make DC. DC Fast **Chargers** are directly connecting to the battery and therefore matching the high voltage battery. I only have a 2008 Prius right now but I do have a 24kw level 3 right near my house, close enough to lock it up and walk back, it also only cost $1/hr according to PlugShare. That would be 48kwh for $2.($0.041/kwh) 1.44kw(12a 120v, Level 1) #1 1.92kw(16a 120v, Level 1) #2 3.84kw(16a 240v, Level 2) #3 For anyone who wants the math worked out for power. #3 is 2.66x #1 #1 is 75% of #2.
I would tap off the 240 volt dryer outlet (using a proper EV splitter box). And it doesn't need to be at the full 24 amps, a 20 amp 240 volt extension cord (NEMA 6-20) to let the car charge at 16 amps, 240 volt would give a much more efficient charge.
You need a NEMA 5-20 adapter to get more than 12 amps from a 20 amp 120 volt circuit. The NEMA 5-15 you have is limited to 12 amps. We've been charging our Kia Niro EV on 120 volts for 5 years, with there supplied Kia EVSE. Works fine, as long as one has realistic expectations as to how much power can be delivered during a charging session. It's only math.
Most OEM level one chargers have a temperature sensor built into the 110 plug end This is to shut down the charger if the plug overheats. With the adapter you have from level 2 to level 1 (110vac) is there a temperature sensor in either or both cord ends? Just wondering.
Good luck with Level 1 charging. I regularly drive well over 100 miles with my Model Y. I need Level 2 48 amps or I could be without enough charge in the morning if I got home really late.
I had just Level 1 for my first EV and it worked great. I have L2 now only because GM paid to install a NEMA 14-50 outlet as part of a promotion when I bought my Bolt EUV in 2022. Nice to have, but not absolutely essential for me
I drove my 2014 Focus EV until 2020 when I went to a 2020 Bolt EV and now have a 2024 Blazer EV and have always just used 120v and at most have to finish charging on a second day! There is also an Ultium DC near me that I only used once to make shared it worked! I have all the wiring for a 220v charge adapter but can’t see any reason to install one!
I thought the same thing when she first mentioned the issue, because most cars do have an option to turn this off. But I searched all through the system and couldn't find an option for it
@@DailyMotor I do not own a Bolt but this might be a good thing to try: after backing up, momentarily shift to Park and then put it in Drive. It doesn't even have to be in Park for a full second. That may kick the display out of camera mode and show the navigation.
??? Are you charging this Bolt outdoors a lot or usually inside the garage where it's more insulated? I've heard if you charge outdoors and it's under 50 degrees, the charging time to go from 10% to 80% is like 20 percent to 35 percent longer: How cold outdoors have you charged your bolt and have you noticed anything similar to what I've heard and read?
Hey Charlie thanks for the video. It peaked my interest for two reasons. Number one I truly love the Chevrolet bolt it is just a terrific little car. I waxed and wained for a long time trying to decide whether or not to buy it. I ended up buying a Hyundai ionic 5. I got a great deal on it. But still love the bolt. I’ve had mt Ioniq 5 for a year and a half and I’ve charged on level one exclusively at least at home. I have two years of Electrify America to fall back on should I need to fast charge it. Generally I only drive about 30 miles a day so level one is more than enough. However on those rare days where I drive a lot more I can stop by my electric America which is very close to the house. in fact I have three stations within 5 miles. I live in Northern Virginia. However, once my two years of free Electrify America expires I probably will get level 2 put in. Also, I know exactly what your wife’s talking about in terms of going forward and the camera still shows you going forward. In my case it was that the back up camera was still on. There is a setting in my Hyundai that I can turn that off and as soon as I go forward it turns off. I’m not sure if you can do that in the bolt. It is annoying. Thanks again.
I appreciate the comment! Ioniq 5 is definitely a fantastic option as a more holistic car. If it were our main car in the household, we probably would have gone with that over the bolt. And yeah, unfortunately in the bolt I haven't been able to find an option to turn that setting off.
That is a 15 amp outlet, and should not be on a 20 amp circuit. Do yourself (and everyone else watching your videos) a favor and research what you’re talking about. This is the reason GM limits you to 12 amps. If you took 16 amps continuously out of your 15 amp outlet, bad things can happen.
My Leaf and Tesla do great on L1 16 amps from a dedicated 20 amp plug/circuit. Stupid Bolt just trickles along at 12 amps until it resets itself to 8 amps.. Eight is not even a trickle, maybe just a drip.
You have an L2 unit not used due to location and garage space? Well, I had a similar situation. One sports car, one wife’s PHEV, a Nissan Leaf parked outside. The PHEV was charged with either the 120V or L2. The Leaf used an L2 extension. Problem solved. Using L1 120V 16 amps is slow and inefficient. While this works for you, it limits the use of the EV as it must charge for extended periods of time. Thanks.
120V works surprisingly well. I’ve got neighbors that just use 120V for their PHEVs and BEVs. They don’t even have garages, they just string the charging cord thru a tree to drop down at street level to their car.
The common 120v outlet is a NEMA 5-15 ( 15A peak and 12A continuous) which is shown in this video. If that 120V outlet is fed by 12-2 wire and a 20amp breaker, the outlet can be changed to a NEMA 5-20, which will allow 20A peak and 16A continuous current; this is a cheap upgrade and will boost charging speed by 1/3. You'll need a NEMA 5-20 plug for the charger. If the outlet has 12-2 wire and a 15A breaker, the breaker can be changed to a 20A 120v breaker. If the outlet is on it's own circuit (no other outlets or loads) then the breaker can be changed to a 15A (14-2 wire) 240V and the outlet to a NEMA 6-15 or to a 20A (12-2 wire) 240V breaker and a NEMA 6-20 outlet, with the appropriate plugs and charger the car can then charge at a continuous 12A/240v (NEMA 6-15 outlet) or 16A/240v (NEMA 6-20 outlet).
1.44kw(12a 120v, Level 1) #1
1.92kw(16a 120v, Level 1) #2
3.84kw(16a 240v, Level 2) #3
For anyone who wants the math worked out for power.
#3 is 2.66x #1
#1 is 75% of #2.
That means that swapping an outlet(if the wires can handle it) would result in 25% increase in power and also charge speed.
@@Defianthuman 1/3 of 12 is 4, so 16 is a 1/3 increase from 12. 4 is a 25% decrease from 16.
I did this for my leaf. Standard 20A breaker 12-2 wire. Pulled the outlet out and installed a new 20A outlet. Context I drive 100 miles a day, which uses my entire battery, so I need it at 100 every morning.
Chevy Bolt does not allow 120V 16 Amp. It has settings for L1 8 and 12 Amps. The 12 Amp setting reverts to 8 every 3 months with no warning or notification. Truly dumb lawyer engineering.
@@retiredtexan8331 That's too bad, but a NEMA 5-20 outlet will more safely handle 12A continuously than a NEMA 5-15.
I drive the least efficient Mustang Mach-E, and Level 1 works fine for my 50 mile daily commute.
Same. I’ve been driving my MME using only L1 since Oct 2023 and I’ve got the car set to only charge in off-peak hours from 7pm to 7am. Only occasionally do I drive enough that it doesn’t charge back up overnight or over a couple of nights. It’s still super convenient and I haven’t needed to spend the money to get a 240V outlet run up to my garage.
I have a F150 lightning, and my daily drive is around 50-60 miles, depending on the route i take. (Gym in morning and then I drop off my wife at work, we're single vehicle household).
I charge exclusively on 120V, 20amp. Based on efficiency (i get anywhere from 2.5 to 1.9 mi/kWh), I lose a tiny bit of charge over the week, which gets recovered first thing on weekends. Also, reason for losing charge is NOT slow charging, but rather charging during super off-peak hours, which is 10pm - 4am. My rates for the weekend are the same till Sunday midnight, so i essentially recover the charge sometime by Saturday evening/night.
Now, i do have access to 240v charger, via a smart charger which slows or stops charging when my washing machine would be running. (This is now useless as we recently got all in one unit which actually needs 120v). The reason I've been using 120V is, is the easiest and closest, and also makes it easy to park the truck without running over the wires.
I got a quote to move my 240v outlet in a way to bring it closer and on another wall, not very cheap. So, as long as kids don't turn 16, at which I'll get them a beater ev, i can live with this.
Charlie, When it comes to car ownership summaries, boring is good. It seems that white cars are popular in your neighbourhood.
Gotta stay cool. After all, it's a balmy 21°C here today
@@DailyMotor Snow and freezing rain here.
Charlie. I love your style, but PLEASE be aware of this IT'S VERY IMPORTANT. That dryer plug is not of a high enough grade for charging an EV. It's highly likely to overheat, especially if it's as old as the rest of the electrical fittings appear to be. ALSO regularly unplugging and plugging in again with the dryer plug will definitely cause that 240v outlet to fail quicker. Dryer plugs cost about $10, you'll need to pay at least $65 to get an industrial quality outlet that will cope with the constant heat passing through it.
Also important is to not use the fuse box breaker as an alternative to unplugging and plugging in again. Standard breakers are not designed to cope with regular use and could also cause issues in the long term. Most EV fire issues in the home are caused by unsuitable electrical connections.
@@simonpaine2347 Zinko not the highest grade breaker box I have been told.
I've been using a regular 120V plug for 12 years :) 10 years with a Nissan LEAF and about 2 years with an ioniq 5. I drive about 800-1000 miles a month, and being in Florida our electricity is basically a flat 11 cents per kwh all day and night. I don't think I'll ever need a 240V charger.
in the future "Time of Use" electric company plans will force higher speed chargers such as level 2. Until then enjoy level 1.
One thing to keep in mind if your electricity is expensive, L1 charging is less efficient than L2. For L2 roughly 90% of energy pulled from socket makes it to the pack. For L1 roughly 80% of energy makes it to the pack.
but it's still cheaper than dc fast charging, or driving gas.
20%loss would irritate me. I would go 230v asap. Good for city driving for sure
@@TNitroH although in comparison to only getting at MOST 40% of the energy out a gallon of gasoline it’s still better. Most cars not doing better than 30-35%.
Love my 23 bolt its has been flawless 20,000. It’s like driving a game.
Does the bolt have a battery thermal management system for charging when below freezing, and if so how much power does that need when it is REALLY cold outside to keep the battery warm enough to charge and does that affect the charge times or amount of distance recovered overnight?
Mine gets about 150 miles in extreme cold weather vs 250 in the summer. If you keep it plugged in, it usually stays warm enough during the winter to not be too bad, but if you leave it freezing overnight and not plugged in, the DC fast charging will be very slow. On an average day though, if you plug in at night and go for a long drive, it’ll charge decently fast at a DC fast charger. If you do more than one DC fast charging session in a day, it’ll usually start getting warm and have usual charging speeds. If you plug in with a level 1 charger, it’ll still gain charge, but not as fast in the deep cold, on a level 2, it’ll easily give it a full charge no matter how cold it is!
@42069SWAG but 120V at 12 amps is only 1500 watts or 1.5kw. at 6 miles per kWh on a 10 hour charge assuming no losses that's only 90 miles... How would you ever possibly get 250?
It does and it has minimal impact on charging speed however when pre heating your car before leaving for the day a L1 can't keep up with the power draw so you might loose a percentage warming up your cabin before leaving for the day
@ I meant my total range if fully charged. My mistake!
@@KiRiTO72987 If a level one charger can't keep up with it to precondition before leaving how does it keep up with it overnight? I live in an area that gets to -20C overnight and would hate to wake up with less charge than I started when I'm expecting an extra 75-90 miles overnight.
When I owned my EUV, I found it EASILY maintained range from a 115v plug even with my 60 mile work round trip in the warmer months. Never tried it during Michigans December/January/February season though. I only owned it Feb-Oct in ‘23 as it was a needed tax break for me that year. Sold it just before the electric car value crash.
My biggest gripe with the EUV was the brake light situation. I didn’t feel the brake light location was properly engineered and I worried about getting rear-ended in close traffic, and I didn’t feel like tearing the back end apart to add diode circuits to energize the higher tail lights when the brakes were applied.
I totally agree, the blinkers as well. There are a lot of bolts around us here, and I was just following one off the highway yesterday and thinking the same thing. Very strange decision on Jim's part
Thank you for video. I am looking to get my first ev & this simple video has given me a lot more confidence for getting an ev.😎
Charlie, Note: The AC charger is in the vehicle. The "EVSE" = Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment is just a smart electric power cord. The maximum level two charge rate is determined by the vehicle onboard AC charger. Some people will buy an 11.5 kw or 48 amp 240 volt EVSE, and find the vehicle only has a 7.5 kw onboard AC charger. 😊. Nice video.
I realize this isn't the point of this video but you can get a NEMA plug Y splitter and extension cord to run 240V out to the driveway for less than $100. if I finally decide to get an EV, I'll run a 240V extension cord out to my garage from the laundry room in my apt because I have no access to the breakers for the 120V outlets and my work commute is almost 100 miles round trip. Yes, running a safe amperage level on 120V is especially important because you're gonna have that plugged in most of the time you aren't driving it. Someone in my building had a Model Y and they ran an orange 120V extension cord out to the car and it was always plugged in - far from an ideal charging situation.
was thinking the same thing, maybe he can do an update video if he decides to do that
We love our 22 bolt. No problems after 25,000 miles.
I actually like the front cameras being on in tight parking lots. But if you don't want it to do that. Go from reverse to park to drive vs going straight from reverse to drive.
We used L1 for the first 4 months we owned an EV. We now have a L2 but it's only a 3.3kw charger and it works great. People don't need the fastest charge when it can people can charge overnight.
That unit looks suspiciously similar to the Vevor EVSE that I have. I ran mine at 120v @ 16A on a 120V 20A circuit and it ran very hot. So I backed it off to 13A and it runs cool as a cucumber now.
Technically, you aren't supposed to run more than 15A through a NEMA 5-15 receptacle. The 20A circuit rating is intended to be split between both outlets at the very least with neither exceeding 15A. For 16A, you are supposed to use 5-20 outlets and plugs.
@@teardowndan5364I am using 5-20 receptacle and 12/2 wiring and 20A fuse. Even the Charging cable got quite warm/hot.
We bought a Model Y long range and only had a 120v outlet in the garage. I said "lets try it for a month and see if it's not keeping up". Its been a year and honestly its been fine. My commute is only about 35 miles and even when we take a longer trip and come back with a lower charge, it might take a couple days to get back up to 80% but we always have enough to commute
un errands. People love to complain about how installing level 2 might cost 1/3/5k but a lot of people might not even need it...
Love this information. A EV would work for 99% of my car needs but I would only have access to a 120 volt outlet. Have often wondered if that would work sufficiently.
Especially if you have a NEMA 5-20 outlet (looks like a regular outlet but has a sideways slot in the left prong) and can charge at 15A instead of the 12 available from a bog standard NEMA 5-15
The key is to get BEV that is efficient enough for your daily commute and the amount power you're using throughout the day is what lv1 charging can replenish overnight
My 23 Bolt came with a free 240V plug installed by GM. Had to live with L1 for a couple of months until the logistics got worked about, but I've got to sayi having the L2 charging available brings with it a lot of flexibility.
4:37 It's higher voltage because it's directly charging the battery. Level 1 and 2 rely on an onboard charger to take the AC and make DC. DC Fast **Chargers** are directly connecting to the battery and therefore matching the high voltage battery. I only have a 2008 Prius right now but I do have a 24kw level 3 right near my house, close enough to lock it up and walk back, it also only cost $1/hr according to PlugShare. That would be 48kwh for $2.($0.041/kwh)
1.44kw(12a 120v, Level 1) #1
1.92kw(16a 120v, Level 1) #2
3.84kw(16a 240v, Level 2) #3
For anyone who wants the math worked out for power.
#3 is 2.66x #1
#1 is 75% of #2.
I would tap off the 240 volt dryer outlet (using a proper EV splitter box). And it doesn't need to be at the full 24 amps, a 20 amp 240 volt extension cord (NEMA 6-20) to let the car charge at 16 amps, 240 volt would give a much more efficient charge.
You need a NEMA 5-20 adapter to get more than 12 amps from a 20 amp 120 volt circuit. The NEMA 5-15 you have is limited to 12 amps.
We've been charging our Kia Niro EV on 120 volts for 5 years, with there supplied Kia EVSE. Works fine, as long as one has realistic expectations as to how much power can be delivered during a charging session. It's only math.
Most OEM level one chargers have a temperature sensor built into the 110 plug end
This is to shut down the charger if the plug overheats.
With the adapter you have from level 2 to level 1 (110vac) is there a temperature sensor in either
or both cord ends?
Just wondering.
You can buy extension cables with NEMA 10-30 plugs and sockets
Good luck with Level 1 charging. I regularly drive well over 100 miles with my Model Y. I need Level 2 48 amps or I could be without enough charge in the morning if I got home really late.
I think the bolt is pretty good vehicle for the price because Chevy spends more making it then they sell it for. 🤷♂️
I had just Level 1 for my first EV and it worked great. I have L2 now only because GM paid to install a NEMA 14-50 outlet as part of a promotion when I bought my Bolt EUV in 2022. Nice to have, but not absolutely essential for me
I drove my 2014 Focus EV until 2020 when I went to a 2020 Bolt EV and now have a 2024 Blazer EV and have always just used 120v and at most have to finish charging on a second day! There is also an Ultium DC near me that I only used once to make shared it worked! I have all the wiring for a 220v charge adapter but can’t see any reason to install one!
Regarding the backup camera, my Kona electric also does this but there is a setting to disable that. Is there not one on the Bolt?
I thought the same thing when she first mentioned the issue, because most cars do have an option to turn this off. But I searched all through the system and couldn't find an option for it
@@DailyMotor I do not own a Bolt but this might be a good thing to try: after backing up, momentarily shift to Park and then put it in Drive. It doesn't even have to be in Park for a full second.
That may kick the display out of camera mode and show the navigation.
4:13 there is no such thing as lvl 3. its dcfc.
...that's level 3
??? Are you charging this Bolt outdoors a lot or usually inside the garage where it's more insulated? I've heard if you charge outdoors and it's under 50 degrees, the charging time
to go from 10% to 80% is like 20 percent to 35 percent longer: How cold outdoors have you charged your bolt and have you noticed anything similar to what I've heard and read?
Where I live is so far away from the main city that it’s not doable to not have level 2 charging.
How much did your electric bill increase?
Hey Charlie thanks for the video. It peaked my interest for two reasons. Number one I truly love the Chevrolet bolt it is just a terrific little car. I waxed and wained for a long time trying to decide whether or not to buy it. I ended up buying a Hyundai ionic 5. I got a great deal on it. But still love the bolt. I’ve had mt Ioniq 5 for a year and a half and I’ve charged on level one exclusively at least at home. I have two years of Electrify America to fall back on should I need to fast charge it. Generally I only drive about 30 miles a day so level one is more than enough. However on those rare days where I drive a lot more I can stop by my electric America which is very close to the house. in fact I have three stations within 5 miles. I live in Northern Virginia. However, once my two years of free Electrify America expires I probably will get level 2 put in. Also, I know exactly what your wife’s talking about in terms of going forward and the camera still shows you going forward. In my case it was that the back up camera was still on. There is a setting in my Hyundai that I can turn that off and as soon as I go forward it turns off. I’m not sure if you can do that in the bolt. It is annoying. Thanks again.
I appreciate the comment! Ioniq 5 is definitely a fantastic option as a more holistic car. If it were our main car in the household, we probably would have gone with that over the bolt. And yeah, unfortunately in the bolt I haven't been able to find an option to turn that setting off.
I also love motorcycles.
It’s the motorcycle crashing that has me nervous
120v is good for about 50miles a day.
That is a 15 amp outlet, and should not be on a 20 amp circuit. Do yourself (and everyone else watching your videos) a favor and research what you’re talking about. This is the reason GM limits you to 12 amps. If you took 16 amps continuously out of your 15 amp outlet, bad things can happen.
My Leaf and Tesla do great on L1 16 amps from a dedicated 20 amp plug/circuit. Stupid Bolt just trickles along at 12 amps until it resets itself to 8 amps.. Eight is not even a trickle, maybe just a drip.
It is not a “charger”. It is an evse, the “charger” is bolted on top of the motor.
You have an L2 unit not used due to location and garage space? Well, I had a similar situation. One sports car, one wife’s PHEV, a Nissan Leaf parked outside. The PHEV was charged with either the 120V or L2. The Leaf used an L2 extension. Problem solved. Using L1 120V 16 amps is slow and inefficient. While this works for you, it limits the use of the EV as it must charge for extended periods of time. Thanks.
Beware charging with your dryer plug.
th-cam.com/video/_JlMOzx44ss/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared