Very good work! But I have a small problem for my car I make a correction mileage, and right new the speedometer and rpm is no work! What I need to make a calibration ? How I do calibration?
Just FWIW, Tin Whiskers are different from Silver Migration in that TW is single crystal growth of pure tin and SM is dendritic migration of the PCB metals along contamination paths between circuit pads and lands.
@@jeffescortlx yes but for real tin whisker mitigation the fix is to add leaded solder (I use 60/40) but at least 6% minimum lead. The contamination issue is more difficult as it is usually the result of the chemistry process leaving conductive salts on the board from the plating process that have to be physically removed. Depending upon what you see it may need scrubbing with a fiberglass brush as well as scraping lightly with a scribe. Patience wins the day. The dark stains around the vias may be due to board heating effects if they are adjacent to power resistors or are in the circuit of the power resistors or other power chain devices, usually a result of the through hole plating. The only way to find out definitively after return would be to run the circuit and look at it with a infrared display to see if they are heating, that or section the board for analysis. The latter method is too destructive if the cluster is to be used further.
@@chuckpatten7855 I don't remember finding tin whiskers across IC pins, but I do often see dark stains at the via's, if left long enough it will cause a low of enough impedance to effect things. I have a scrub pad for doing body work that cleans it off without being too aggressive. Thanks for your insight, it is appreciated.
Interested to see how you are sending serial data to the cluster and what wires to hook up where. Also. How do you know where to put the needles back on. Is it experience or is there a guide to follow
What did you clean with? My board is brown in those exact spots, just off the speedometer gauge on the left side. Gently wiped off, but some still there, should I try isopropyl alcohol with a cotton swab? Tia!
Just replaced my starter today $ 232. Same damn day the speedo stepper motor goes out ….bam another 100 plus dollars. Trucks a 2005 and has been nothing but a money pit lately. Proudly made in mexico.
Absolutely love your videos..... you're obviously about 100 steps ahead of many "u-tube", dash cluster "experts", however.. I have just One "complaint/request" of you.... "If" you're sincerely interested in helping those of us who may be, or Are capable of potentially effecting these levels of repairs ourselves at home.... at least as far as the soldering, air-core motor rejuvenation, etc is concerned. In all the GM dash video's that I've watched from you... you never Once, tell what your using... ie; various (cleaning?) solutions, soldering wire gauge & type, soldering station type / model, De-soldering tool used, etc, etc.... ALL of which would be extremely useful & Very Helpful information for us semi advanced/advanced DYIer's to know. Would Greatly Appreciate that kind of info, if you would Please include that, as you work on this stuff... during your videos. Would be REALLY helpful to us "out here", if you explained why you're doing, what you're doing as you go along. It would have been Really helpful to know (ie;) what or where you got the syringe/? with the special end on it for purging and refilling the "air-core" motors for the 99 - 02 gauges, as well as, what weight of "oil" that is used to rejuvenate them. Also, is it OK... to replace the original incandescent dash cluster bulbs (just the one's for night viewing of the dash cluster - Not turn signals, etc.) in the 99 - 02 cluster, with LED replacement bulbs... without causing any issues of Any kind ? Grateful Thanks for your time and any response that You, can reply with... much appreciated.
Many of your questions are answered in my work bench tour video. th-cam.com/video/LnDgK4rJ2us/w-d-xo.html Yes you can use LED's in the 99-02. I don't provide LEDs in socketed pre-assembled form because of reliability issues with the LEDs.
@@jeffescortlx..... Jeff, Thank You for taking the time to read and respond to my "complaint/request".... Very much appreciate it. I felt rather foolish after posting my comment to you, as about an hour later, I went onto your site and found the video that you sent me the link to in your reply... so, I've watched it twice, now... and it helps a Lot. I'm definitely going to look into purchasing a De-soldering tool like you have (for other soldering work I do on electric guitars, and hobbies.)... or, whatever model they now have, similar to yours. I do have a soldering "station with a range of 360 to 846 degrees... but does Not have a Hot Air accessory. Is the Hot Air tool used in the De-soldering process, or ?? In reference to LED's for the 99 - 02 GM's... are you saying the LED's themselves have issue's, or is it the original OEM socket - with an LED in it, or ?? PS; Just earlier, today (Friday) while driving (02 GMC 2500 HD - diesel w/6 spd manual trans. - 300K +/- miles? - Odom/trip light quit, 6 yrs ago) - the Airbag light suddenly came on & at the same time, my side mirror (both sides) control - no longer working - any way that they could be "connected"??... doesn't seem likely, but ???. What is the current "turn around time" (not sure where you're located, I'm in western edge of MO.)... approximately, if I were to send you the dash cluster, to fix the non working Odom/Trip light issue, and give it a good going over/health check and preventative maintenance fix before it breaks (air-core motors, etc, etc), and possibly replace All the lighting with new OEM style, and LED's where applicable ? The dash cluster has never been removed since it was new... is all original. Are either Green or Red LED's available in the type you use ? Thanks again... Have a great weekend.
@@Romans--bo7br hot air is for removing/installing surface mount components. The 3rd party LEDs that come pre-assembled in 194 twist sockets are normally of low quality. It's not uncommon for them to fail within a year. While the OEM 194's are good for 300k. Turn around time is typically 1-3 days depending on work load.
No not exactly, if your not going to mark the needle parked position before pulling the needles off you need to reset them with the cluster on, but no input signals.
Have you heard of Blackcat Custom ? They do aftermarket cluster faces. Just wondering if you have heard anything negative. Have a 1995 S10 that I would like to change face to white with blue lights. Do you know of a reputable place that replaces the face?
I would like the leds and the backing in my dash cluster replaced in my 2005 pontiac grand am how much...I want it done right and I'm not doing it myself...
No I don't reccomended LED's for reliability. LED's are sensitive to inductive kick back and transit voltages. The lamp circuit has no protection from that, because incandescent bulbs don't require it.
Jeff i was wondering ,i found 2 different color code charts to test bench it for the unit my buddy has in his truck and neither will power it up ,no lights no nothing.It is in a 2003 gmc 1500
Gotcha, Thanks for the reply, wasn't sure, I need to add a couple extra led's to mine, I tried using solder itself, tricky though, my led legs aren't long at all,
Hi, I have a 2000 gmc sierra and I swapped in a denali cluster for the trans temp blue lighting and 120 mph speedo, Can you change the odometer to match what is actually on my truck ? And if yes how much to do it? Thanks
That typically happens when someone installs the wrong cluster. I'd reccomended to have the original cluster rebuilt so you don't have compatibility and odometer issues.
@@jeffescortlx Hi Jeff thanks for the reply, my vehicle is a MG 3 1.5 petrol , my issue is occasionally the indicator turn signal sound does not work but the indicator lights are working , i have noticed that if i drive over a bump the turn signal sound may start working or stop working.
Have you ever heard of one of these clusters not responding to the buttons on the steering wheel? The display shows the mileage and trip but won’t show the service due message. Could the truck have the wrong cluster?
@@jiffry58 it's always fun to explain to a new vehicle owner that it doesn't have the miles on it they think it has. For the heck of it you should see if your scan tool can read miles from the main engine ECU?
Thanks for your very informative videos. I noticed the DIC display appears dimmer than the gear selector display. I had previously successfully replaced my stepper motors and bulbs prior to seeing your videos. I did have a dim gear selector display, but reflowed the solder on the offending resistors to the left of the speedometer stepper motor. I was wondering why my DIC seems a bit dimmer than my gear selector indicator. Other vehicles seem to have equal brightness.
135k miles....I haven't yet tried reflowing solder at any other spots on the board. Only did the resistors for the gear selector indicator, which was very dim. DIC is still readable except in strong sunlight, just not as bright as the gear selector display.
Could you give me a part number for these 12 volt LEDs?? I've been doing these clusters for years and have yet to find a decent LED to run in these. Like you said they're pretty susceptible to damage unlike the Incandescent bulbs.
My over seas supplier doesn't assign the bulbs a part number. They deal in high quantity specialized cluster parts. But the description to order by is 4.7mm 100ma @ 14v.
Love your videos. Very thorough. Question tho @jeffescortlx I have been seeing people changing the colors of the PRNDL and DIC from the typical GM greenish to full white. Would that be a screen swap for the color or something changed on the circuit board. Just curious. Thanks for the info if you know!
Do you do any modification for cluster dimmer when changing from incandescent to LED? Not being able to change brightness of LED backlight at the same rate with incandescent is somewhat annoying unless you change every light on the dash with LED.
No I don't do any extra modifications. I just try my best to match the intensity to the rest of the dashboard. And correct, it doesn't dim at the same rate as the factory incandescent. That's just a sacrifice that needs to be made when someone decides to change out to LED.
@@jeffescortlx I have replaced old cluster with 194 bulb with LED before and the intensity issue was a bit annoying. Now I have 05 F150 and has been putting off replacing backlight because of this issue. I like to have white backlight. I'm also looking into possibility of making oil pressure gauge actually display real oil pressure. But since this cluster has stepper motor for the gauge, things will get a little complicated. Unless I can reverse engineer code in MCU, looks like I will need a external driver to make it work.
@lambintion >The 194 peanut bulb is incandescent is always slightly yellow. Replacing with LED’s require research for “Kelvin =3k is just above yellow and look white. 3.5k is cool white Lumens =120 low / 5k bright, and stick with name brand stuff like “Osram, Sylvania, Phillips etc. As for oil pressure, speaking as an ASE Master, we remove the sender (5 volts w/variable out) install a fitting w/hose to trusted gauge. This allows cold-hot + idle to 2K RPM and compare. If close, leave alone as you will have a 1/8” coil of copper tubing to gauge to new fitting at engine. One day it breaks and oil starts spraying your socks. I don’t want a live gauge. Depends on what Ford did but two wires is normal. Some use oil sender with 3rd wire to shut off fuel pump when upside down in a ditch spraying fuel on exhaust. Ford used a magnet with gold plated steel ball that if hit, would dislodge shutting off fuel after fender bender. Highway Patrol had a book showing location of re-set switch to get you off street. Keep what you have but check it with a hose gauge. The volume of oil leaks passed cam, lifters, rods and crank bearings. If thin, low at hot idle, if thicker, it maybe higher. If still low, engine maybe worn bad. Find a Ford Truck / Car Forum online, join and ask question with type of oil and reading hot and speed. Year and engine size is needed for correct answer as 2,000 guys will give you advice. Some good! Hope this helps! ASE Master Tech-1978-Retired.
@@deankay4434 Ford just has a pressure switch with single wire. Doesn't actually measure pressure at all. The cluster will just move pressure gauge to middle when it receives signal from the cluster. So, even though my truck as oil pressure gauge, it is nothing more than just low pressure light. That is why I was considering modifying oil pressure gauge. It technically is possible to replace the sensor and drive oil pressure gauge with a separate stepper motor driver and use something like Arduino to translate signal from real pressure sensor. But, probably better off just having secondary gauge with better resolution.
@unikatura >When tire size is changed, tires & wheels both, the speedo reads wrong. The year determines what can be changed as the TECH2 has the ability to erase and re-calibrate using class2 serial data (1 wire, 0-7 volts) but stores this change in the EEPROM the speed uses. Many early, it was the PCM as it gets the VSS signal, converts it to on/off (A/C) from trans, but the PCM changes the signal. Class2 to the IPC uses for speed, oil, RPM, etc. A second signal goes to SIR, Radio, etc. Yes radio, it get louder the faster you go. A 3rd signal is used by ABS at different rate of on/off signals. If you new tire size is in the TECH2, it is a simple re-learn. You might come close or dead on. If Jeff reads my reply, he would know more as I was a dealer tech and had to do everything. It’s been 2 years but Jeff is busy! Hope this helps and call around for pricing. Independent shops can buy TECH2’s hopefully not Chinese copies as mine is Hewlett-Packard. There are other digital tools certain tire shops may have, but call around from $25 - $125. ASE Master Tech since 1978, Retired.
@@deankay4434 very informative , thanks for reply... its still relevant as im still using the same care with same problem... the RPM needle doesnt even move anymore... Do you think i should repair it or replace the unit?
This requires some diagnostics. Say cruise & speedo both stopped, then could been sender, the driven generator at the trans, or the drive gear on the output shaft. Could be wires or corroded terminals that turned green. If cruise work and your radio gets louder with speed (RDS) then could be board issue or stepper motor problem. It may set code if key on, engine off = bulb run check. If check engine or service engine soon bulb not working, could have codes. Effects ABS as 3 sensors, 1 on each front wheel and VSS on driveshaft connected thru diff to both rear wheels is 3rd input. Cold soldered joint on IP circuit board or bad trace...lots of things to test first before taking stuff apart. Sensor (If Auto Trans 2WD) uses magnet with metal folded over it. A coil of wire wraps around magnet that is focused on 40 tooth steel tone ring / reluctor. As tooth lines up it pulls magnetic field toward it. The movement of this magnetic field generates a signal. Signal is weak and slow but goes up with speed. Find a gravel or dirt road and reach 30 MPH (Make sure no one is behind you) but do a panic brake. Push pedal to the floor like a deer ran in front and hold until stopped. ABS applies, holds or releases. Noise and pedal movement is normal. ABS light light will come on is not working. This function is in body, unless factory tool has ABS selection. A little complicated for guys/gals to fix...Even instrument clusters!!!
@jeffescortlx I have an 03 silverado with the battery drain issue as well as a display scrolling issue. Basically from time to time it will just start rolling through the menu options for language or unit type and randomly settle on whichever one it likes that day. Sometimes it does it once a week.. sometimes once a day.. tried looking for answers on it but had little success. I have some digital electronics training and I am pretty good with a soldiering iron. Any tips to fixing the problem or would you need to see it? Also I cannot view your contact info.
The TH-cam contact option is a little picky. Depends on browser. You could have fractured solder joints, tin wiskers, or a bad internal corroded button, or a little of all the above. Yes trouble shooting helps with hands on.
It's so cool how he does this stuff love too this too mine he must be a pro at this I would be so scared I would mess it up I would have no ideal what I was doing.
I have an 2005 chevy 1500 with 200000 and almost all of my stepper motor act up bulbs burnt out. Can I send you mine I just want it to work. Correctly and have oil pressure guage lol thanks!!
Hey Jeff i am a new subscriber to your channel and I love your work. Can you show me how to test the cluster with the signals? I'd love to see that. Thanks again for such great videos.
@@jeffescortlx so I am assuming each manufactory uses different signals meaning I would need a ecu and BCM for each company to test these devices? Also you have the pots attached to the leads of the rpm and speed? Or rather to each dial to see if they move so I would need the ecu and BCM and the pinout for them correct and obviously a 12v power souce.
@@jeffescortlx is the plug and the pinout on the plug of all clusters the same accross the board. If so you could use the same ecu? I'm not sure what a BCM is however I will Google this.
@@ricor9358 actually OBD2 has many universal signals used with all manufacturers. That why one scan tool can work with many different cars. Industry standard signals.
I'm heart broken to hear this hobby/work can cause such a serious situation. I will be taking your advice and hope you can surprise your doctors and hang around long and happy.
For contact information follow this link:
th-cam.com/video/T_2WnJMsZaU/w-d-xo.html
Thank you
You know you really have to appreciate his work. And then he's got to do all the video edit so we all can see. Pretty cool to see all this
That's definitely a hot shot truck. Good work
Looks so great! Awesome job on rebuilding that. I enjoyed watching it.
Great work on you repairs
You do awesome work, buddy.
Very good work! But I have a small problem for my car I make a correction mileage, and right new the speedometer and rpm is no work! What I need to make a calibration ? How I do calibration?
I am starting to enjoy watching your videos.
Thanks. I'm always trying to improve the video/audio and editing to make them easy and enjoyable to watch. The newer videos should be better.
11:43 why the LOCK and brake light not on? as well as a few others I did not see the high beam light as well
Just depends on when and how I'm sending serial data.
Nice work...
Good as new again, good job !
Just FWIW, Tin Whiskers are different from Silver Migration in that TW is single crystal growth of pure tin and SM is dendritic migration of the PCB metals along contamination paths between circuit pads and lands.
A good alcohol scrub should clean up either issue? I more often see the dark stain around via's, I assume this would be SM?
@@jeffescortlx yes but for real tin whisker mitigation the fix is to add leaded solder (I use 60/40) but at least 6% minimum lead. The contamination issue is more difficult as it is usually the result of the chemistry process leaving conductive salts on the board from the plating process that have to be physically removed. Depending upon what you see it may need scrubbing with a fiberglass brush as well as scraping lightly with a scribe. Patience wins the day. The dark stains around the vias may be due to board heating effects if they are adjacent to power resistors or are in the circuit of the power resistors or other power chain devices, usually a result of the through hole plating. The only way to find out definitively after return would be to run the circuit and look at it with a infrared display to see if they are heating, that or section the board for analysis. The latter method is too destructive if the cluster is to be used further.
@@chuckpatten7855 I don't remember finding tin whiskers across IC pins, but I do often see dark stains at the via's, if left long enough it will cause a low of enough impedance to effect things. I have a scrub pad for doing body work that cleans it off without being too aggressive. Thanks for your insight, it is appreciated.
Interested to see how you are sending serial data to the cluster and what wires to hook up where. Also. How do you know where to put the needles back on. Is it experience or is there a guide to follow
What did you clean with? My board is brown in those exact spots, just off the speedometer gauge on the left side. Gently wiped off, but some still there, should I try isopropyl alcohol with a cotton swab? Tia!
Yes ICO (~91%) is perfect to use.
Can u show wires diagram witch one are posited and negative or explain wat wires are wat plz
Just replaced my starter today $ 232. Same damn day the speedo stepper motor goes out ….bam another 100 plus dollars. Trucks a 2005 and has been nothing but a money pit lately. Proudly made in mexico.
How I yearn for the old days without instrument cluster woes!
Absolutely love your videos..... you're obviously about 100 steps ahead of many "u-tube", dash cluster "experts", however.. I have just One "complaint/request" of you.... "If" you're sincerely interested in helping those of us who may be, or Are capable of potentially effecting these levels of repairs ourselves at home.... at least as far as the soldering, air-core motor rejuvenation, etc is concerned.
In all the GM dash video's that I've watched from you... you never Once, tell what your using... ie; various (cleaning?) solutions, soldering wire gauge & type, soldering station type / model, De-soldering tool used, etc, etc.... ALL of which would be extremely useful & Very Helpful information for us semi advanced/advanced DYIer's to know. Would Greatly Appreciate that kind of info, if you would Please include that, as you work on this stuff... during your videos.
Would be REALLY helpful to us "out here", if you explained why you're doing, what you're doing as you go along. It would have been Really helpful to know (ie;) what or where you got the syringe/? with the special end on it for purging and refilling the "air-core" motors for the 99 - 02 gauges, as well as, what weight of "oil" that is used to rejuvenate them.
Also, is it OK... to replace the original incandescent dash cluster bulbs (just the one's for night viewing of the dash cluster - Not turn signals, etc.) in the 99 - 02 cluster, with LED replacement bulbs... without causing any issues of Any kind ? Grateful Thanks for your time and any response that You, can reply with... much appreciated.
Many of your questions are answered in my work bench tour video.
th-cam.com/video/LnDgK4rJ2us/w-d-xo.html
Yes you can use LED's in the 99-02. I don't provide LEDs in socketed pre-assembled form because of reliability issues with the LEDs.
@@jeffescortlx..... Jeff, Thank You for taking the time to read and respond to my "complaint/request".... Very much appreciate it. I felt rather foolish after posting my comment to you, as about an hour later, I went onto your site and found the video that you sent me the link to in your reply... so, I've watched it twice, now... and it helps a Lot.
I'm definitely going to look into purchasing a De-soldering tool like you have (for other soldering work I do on electric guitars, and hobbies.)... or, whatever model they now have, similar to yours.
I do have a soldering "station with a range of 360 to 846 degrees... but does Not have a Hot Air accessory.
Is the Hot Air tool used in the De-soldering process, or ?? In reference to LED's for the 99 - 02 GM's... are you saying the LED's themselves have issue's, or is it the original OEM socket - with an LED in it, or ??
PS; Just earlier, today (Friday) while driving (02 GMC 2500 HD - diesel w/6 spd manual trans. - 300K +/- miles? - Odom/trip light quit, 6 yrs ago) - the Airbag light suddenly came on & at the same time, my side mirror (both sides) control - no longer working - any way that they could be "connected"??... doesn't seem likely, but ???.
What is the current "turn around time" (not sure where you're located, I'm in western edge of MO.)... approximately, if I were to send you the dash cluster, to fix the non working Odom/Trip light issue, and give it a good going over/health check and preventative maintenance fix before it breaks (air-core motors, etc, etc), and possibly replace All the lighting with new OEM style, and LED's where applicable ? The dash cluster has never been removed since it was new... is all original.
Are either Green or Red LED's available in the type you use ?
Thanks again... Have a great weekend.
@@Romans--bo7br hot air is for removing/installing surface mount components. The 3rd party LEDs that come pre-assembled in 194 twist sockets are normally of low quality. It's not uncommon for them to fail within a year. While the OEM 194's are good for 300k. Turn around time is typically 1-3 days depending on work load.
so when putting the needles back on with the cluster unplugged everything goes to zero and the rpm and speedo go a little below ?
No not exactly, if your not going to mark the needle parked position before pulling the needles off you need to reset them with the cluster on, but no input signals.
Way do you spin the needles to take them off? I know they can just be pulled off. Got to be a good reason.
It breaks the grip free. Otherwise it's possible for the shaft to stick to the needle and pull out of the motor gear instead.
@@jeffescortlx good to know. When I put new needles on mine I spin them counter clock wise not to break them.
Have you heard of Blackcat Custom ? They do aftermarket cluster faces. Just wondering if you have heard anything negative. Have a 1995 S10 that I would like to change face to white with blue lights. Do you know of a reputable place that replaces the face?
I'm not familiar with that brand. You might have slim picking to find a face for a S-10.
I would like the leds and the backing in my dash cluster replaced in my 2005 pontiac grand am how much...I want it done right and I'm not doing it myself...
The lamps are user serviceable in the Grand Am.
Awesome job big thumbs up 👍
Jeff how did you calibrate the needles
By setting them at the home position.
Where can I get a new button pad?
Pad? The button it's self or the plastic plunger stick?
Do you have a background about the malfunction of the Ford Marquis 2008 information screen in the cluster ?
Nice job. I'm curious how you do class 2 data.
I have a chevy ECU and BCM mounted in a project box with pot's wired for bench testing
How do you indenfity the polarity for installing the leds? Or do you just have it memorized?
Memorized with a cheat sheet.
Jeff
Do you recommend replacing the incandescent bulbs with LED‘s?
Thanks
No I don't reccomended LED's for reliability. LED's are sensitive to inductive kick back and transit voltages. The lamp circuit has no protection from that, because incandescent bulbs don't require it.
Jeff i was wondering ,i found 2 different color code charts to test bench it for the unit my buddy has in his truck and neither will power it up ,no lights no nothing.It is in a 2003 gmc 1500
It's common for the 2003 board to have power loss issues.
What do you use to extend out the added bulbs? Some kind of wire or solder? You do such great work!
Just the LED leads.
Gotcha, Thanks for the reply, wasn't sure, I need to add a couple extra led's to mine, I tried using solder itself, tricky though, my led legs aren't long at all,
Hi, I have a 2000 gmc sierra and I swapped in a denali cluster for the trans temp blue lighting and 120 mph speedo, Can you change the odometer to match what is actually on my truck ? And if yes how much to do it? Thanks
Yes my contact information is linked in the sticky post.
I have an 04 Tahoe that says "Service brake booster" but it has hyd brakes...can you cancle that out along with the Tpms warning?
That typically happens when someone installs the wrong cluster. I'd reccomended to have the original cluster rebuilt so you don't have compatibility and odometer issues.
dont have the orig..bought truck with this cluster..it came out of a truck with a brake booster..
@@ding0925 I see. After you find out what the odometer is supposed to be, contact best pixel inc. For vin programming.
ok..thanks
Hi All, wanted to know the indicator clicking sound comes from a speaker in the instrument cluster or is it located some where else?
It depends on what kind of vehicle it is.
@@jeffescortlx Hi Jeff thanks for the reply, my vehicle is a MG 3 1.5 petrol , my issue is occasionally the indicator turn signal sound does not work but the indicator lights are working , i have noticed that if i drive over a bump the turn signal sound may start working or stop working.
@@ferhassheikh4061 I wouldn't have the slightest idea. I just work on Chevy and Ford's.
@@jeffescortlx thanks Jeff. Love your videos. good work.
@@ferhassheikh4061 Thanks! Wish I could have been more help.
Have you ever heard of one of these clusters not responding to the buttons on the steering wheel? The display shows the mileage and trip but won’t show the service due message. Could the truck have the wrong cluster?
Yes, if the only option you see is "trip" some one put the wrong cluster in.
jeffescortlx thanks!
@@jiffry58 your welcome. You'll have to track down the original cluster for full compatibility and true odometer reading.
jeffescortlx its a customers vehicle. He just bought it so that should be fun! Thanks for the info! Love the vids!
@@jiffry58 it's always fun to explain to a new vehicle owner that it doesn't have the miles on it they think it has. For the heck of it you should see if your scan tool can read miles from the main engine ECU?
Thanks for your very informative videos. I noticed the DIC display appears dimmer than the gear selector display. I had previously successfully replaced my stepper motors and bulbs prior to seeing your videos. I did have a dim gear selector display, but reflowed the solder on the offending resistors to the left of the speedometer stepper motor. I was wondering why my DIC seems a bit dimmer than my gear selector indicator. Other vehicles seem to have equal brightness.
You probably have a 2005.
2004 GMC Sierra 2500hd
@@pdspaint do you have a lot of miles/hours on it?
135k miles....I haven't yet tried reflowing solder at any other spots on the board. Only did the resistors for the gear selector indicator, which was very dim. DIC is still readable except in strong sunlight, just not as bright as the gear selector display.
@@pdspaint I'm wondering if your 04 has a 05 revision board. 05 have issues with the odometer VFD going dim with use.
If you add a motor to a non trans temp cluster does it just work?
Only if it's an early 2003.
jeffescortlx 2005, I have a extra 2003 one
@@740iz06 the other cluster will have the incorrect odometer. Possible other options missing to if it's not from the same trim model.
jeffescortlx is that programmable?
@@740iz06 yes
Could you tell me the what LED bulbs I should get for my cluster and where to get them?
It depends on the year/model of vehicle that you have.
I have an 05 Avalanche 1500 gas.
@@jeffescortlx
@@dalehenry7807 try tachtronics for a LED kit.
can I ask what can of bulbs did you use to replace and where can I order some
what do i need to worry about on my 2011 sierra diesel cluster? it has 87k miles.
You should be in the clear.
they don’t have any issues?
@@Reaglesracing44_ Every now and then a temperature sensitive microprocessor, but for the most part they are reliable.
Can you tell me ,are the gm 2003 clusters wired differentlly for the us truck & canadian trucks
Not wired different, but programmed different.
what led blubls do u you use... i am in the process of changin everything to blue in my 05 cadillac sts
19,102 hours on the clock holy hell and I thought the 305k shop truck he had with 7500 hours was a lot lol
oops looks like no cruise control bulb?
It's there. It just doesn't come on with the other indicators during the key on test.
nice work... what do U use for cleaning the board..
rubbing alcohol
Could you give me a part number for these 12 volt LEDs?? I've been doing these clusters for years and have yet to find a decent LED to run in these. Like you said they're pretty susceptible to damage unlike the Incandescent bulbs.
Unless you're ordering 5kpcs at a time, I'd reccomended the US Speedo cube LED's, otherwise I like sticking with incandescent.
Are all the incandescent bulbs the same? Or can you recommend a good source? Please and thanks
Jeff would you share the LED you used in the build please. If you have a link to those would be nice. Thanks
I typically use a 5mm single chip diffused lens flat top native 12-14v LED.
how do you calibrate the needles?
Watch the video at 12:23
Hey Jeff what is your source for gm 03-06 oem bulbs . Part # is you have it ... ty sir
My over seas supplier doesn't assign the bulbs a part number. They deal in high quantity specialized cluster parts. But the description to order by is 4.7mm 100ma @ 14v.
Thank you
Love your videos. Very thorough. Question tho @jeffescortlx I have been seeing people changing the colors of the PRNDL and DIC from the typical GM greenish to full white. Would that be a screen swap for the color or something changed on the circuit board. Just curious. Thanks for the info if you know!
The color is changed through a color transparency film, typically included on some after market faces.
@@jeffescortlx oh wow ok. So if I got a gauge face with a clear PRNDL and DIC it should be stock white? Also thanks for the quick response!!
@@FreeLifeFilms no, I believe the film needs to be red. Green color passing through red should make white.
@@jeffescortlx you are awesome. Very much appreciated!!!!! Thank you!!
What do you charge to do one of these cluster s?
My contact information is available by following the link in the top comment.
I have a 03 Tahoe could you add a transmission temperature gauge to it?
Yes.
@@jeffescortlx do you have a website or an address to send it to you?
@@1surenolove4life3 Sorry I don't have a website yet. But my contact information is available under my channel "about" tab.
Great fix!
whats the part number on the LED Bulbs you use
Hi David, I received your email. The LED's I use don't have a part number. They are a 5mm native 12-14v with built in dropper resistor.
I would love to send you my cluster for a fix job. Hardly worked when I got my truck. Since replacing the steppers its not worked at all.
What is the tool u use to take off the solder called?
Solder sucker. Link in description.
Do you do any modification for cluster dimmer when changing from incandescent to LED? Not being able to change brightness of LED backlight at the same rate with incandescent is somewhat annoying unless you change every light on the dash with LED.
No it ends up matching pretty close.
No I don't do any extra modifications. I just try my best to match the intensity to the rest of the dashboard. And correct, it doesn't dim at the same rate as the factory incandescent. That's just a sacrifice that needs to be made when someone decides to change out to LED.
@@jeffescortlx I have replaced old cluster with 194 bulb with LED before and the intensity issue was a bit annoying. Now I have 05 F150 and has been putting off replacing backlight because of this issue. I like to have white backlight.
I'm also looking into possibility of making oil pressure gauge actually display real oil pressure. But since this cluster has stepper motor for the gauge, things will get a little complicated. Unless I can reverse engineer code in MCU, looks like I will need a external driver to make it work.
@lambintion >The 194 peanut bulb is incandescent is always slightly yellow. Replacing with LED’s require research for “Kelvin =3k is just above yellow and look white. 3.5k is cool white
Lumens =120 low / 5k bright, and stick with name brand stuff like “Osram, Sylvania, Phillips etc.
As for oil pressure, speaking as an ASE Master, we remove the sender (5 volts w/variable out) install a fitting w/hose to trusted gauge. This allows cold-hot + idle to 2K RPM and compare. If close, leave alone as you will have a 1/8” coil of copper tubing to gauge to new fitting at engine. One day it breaks and oil starts spraying your socks. I don’t want a live gauge. Depends on what Ford did but two wires is normal. Some use oil sender with 3rd wire to shut off fuel pump when upside down in a ditch spraying fuel on exhaust. Ford used a magnet with gold plated steel ball that if hit, would dislodge shutting off fuel after fender bender. Highway Patrol had a book showing location of re-set switch to get you off street. Keep what you have but check it with a hose gauge. The volume of oil leaks passed cam, lifters, rods and crank bearings. If thin, low at hot idle, if thicker, it maybe higher. If still low, engine maybe worn bad.
Find a Ford Truck / Car Forum online, join and ask question with type of oil and reading hot and speed. Year and engine size is needed for correct answer as 2,000 guys will give you advice. Some good! Hope this helps!
ASE Master Tech-1978-Retired.
@@deankay4434 Ford just has a pressure switch with single wire. Doesn't actually measure pressure at all. The cluster will just move pressure gauge to middle when it receives signal from the cluster. So, even though my truck as oil pressure gauge, it is nothing more than just low pressure light. That is why I was considering modifying oil pressure gauge.
It technically is possible to replace the sensor and drive oil pressure gauge with a separate stepper motor driver and use something like Arduino to translate signal from real pressure sensor. But, probably better off just having secondary gauge with better resolution.
Great work. What LED's are you use?
5mm flat top diffused native 12v.
how do you calibrate the needles if they are showing wrong km/h ? do you just use some software or is it physical?
@unikatura >When tire size is changed, tires & wheels both, the speedo reads wrong. The year determines what can be changed as the TECH2 has the ability to erase and re-calibrate using class2 serial data (1 wire, 0-7 volts) but stores this change in the EEPROM the speed uses. Many early, it was the PCM as it gets the VSS signal, converts it to on/off (A/C) from trans, but the PCM changes the signal. Class2 to the IPC uses for speed, oil, RPM, etc. A second signal goes to SIR, Radio, etc. Yes radio, it get louder the faster you go. A 3rd signal is used by ABS at different rate of on/off signals. If you new tire size is in the TECH2, it is a simple re-learn. You might come close or dead on. If Jeff reads my reply, he would know more as I was a dealer tech and had to do everything. It’s been 2 years but Jeff is busy! Hope this helps and call around for pricing. Independent shops can buy TECH2’s hopefully not Chinese copies as mine is Hewlett-Packard. There are other digital tools certain tire shops may have, but call around from $25 - $125.
ASE Master Tech since 1978, Retired.
@@deankay4434 very informative , thanks for reply... its still relevant as im still using the same care with same problem... the RPM needle doesnt even move anymore... Do you think i should repair it or replace the unit?
This requires some diagnostics. Say cruise & speedo both stopped, then could been sender, the driven generator at the trans, or the drive gear on the output shaft. Could be wires or corroded terminals that turned green. If cruise work and your radio gets louder with speed (RDS) then could be board issue or stepper motor problem. It may set code if key on, engine off = bulb run check. If check engine or service engine soon bulb not working, could have codes. Effects ABS as 3 sensors, 1 on each front wheel and VSS on driveshaft connected thru diff to both rear wheels is 3rd input. Cold soldered joint on IP circuit board or bad trace...lots of things to test first before taking stuff apart. Sensor (If Auto Trans 2WD) uses magnet with metal folded over it. A coil of wire wraps around magnet that is focused on 40 tooth steel tone ring / reluctor. As tooth lines up it pulls magnetic field toward it. The movement of this magnetic field generates a signal. Signal is weak and slow but goes up with speed. Find a gravel or dirt road and reach 30 MPH (Make sure no one is behind you) but do a panic brake. Push pedal to the floor like a deer ran in front and hold until stopped. ABS applies, holds or releases. Noise and pedal movement is normal. ABS light light will come on is not working. This function is in body, unless factory tool has ABS selection.
A little complicated for guys/gals to fix...Even instrument clusters!!!
Hi,
Could you tell me how could i identify the pin configuration???
I did it with a google search.
@jeffescortlx I have an 03 silverado with the battery drain issue as well as a display scrolling issue. Basically from time to time it will just start rolling through the menu options for language or unit type and randomly settle on whichever one it likes that day. Sometimes it does it once a week.. sometimes once a day.. tried looking for answers on it but had little success. I have some digital electronics training and I am pretty good with a soldiering iron. Any tips to fixing the problem or would you need to see it? Also I cannot view your contact info.
The TH-cam contact option is a little picky. Depends on browser.
You could have fractured solder joints, tin wiskers, or a bad internal corroded button, or a little of all the above. Yes trouble shooting helps with hands on.
Hey,Jeff is the cat 🐱 in the video related to the famouš Morris the cat?
cool repair! Just be aware of the camera swaying
do you do leds on a 06 dodge ram
Sorry but no.
Where’s your shop located? I need some work done.
I just work out of an office. My contact information is listed under my channel about tab.
I did soldering for the risistance and discovered one of them is disconnected
Then it gets ok
Will the ODO Go over a Million miles or go back to 0? Is there a limit?
I'm not sure. But maybe some day I'll find out.
999,999 is the limit that is where you replace it with a new one. to keep tracking the miles
How do I get in contact with you for a repair.. I have a 2003 Cluster nothing is reading
My contact information is available in my channel page under the "about" tab.
can you post your website? . I need an 04 gmc cluster rebuilt
Sorry I don't have a website.
No email info under about using widows pc.
There's a contact button you have to click on.
How do I get in contact with you I’d like to get my cluster repaired
The top pinned comment (the one right above your comment) has a link to my contact information.
It's so cool how he does this stuff love too this too mine he must be a pro at this I would be so scared I would mess it up I would have no ideal what I was doing.
Always interesting
How do I get in touch with you about rebuilding one for me?
Contact information is under my channel "about" tab.
Great work, How to contact for repair work?.
Through the "about" tab on my channel page.
What is your website / contact info? I have a 2005 GMC with a cluster that needs some luv'n (dim shift indicator)
My contact information is under my channel "about" tab.
I have an 2005 chevy 1500 with 200000 and almost all of my stepper motor act up bulbs burnt out. Can I send you mine I just want it to work. Correctly and have oil pressure guage lol thanks!!
My contact information is under my channel "about" tab.
love watching your vids! what is the highest miles you have seen on a cluster?
This would be it. I've seen a few with 500k, but this 700k tops it.
Like you attention to detail.....👍
I'm curious, what do you charge for a rebuild such as this - Just a ball park figure?
120 plus shipping.
jeffescortlx
Please contact me:
FrontierMgmtSrvs@gmail.com
@@jeffescortlx Thanks. I'm guessing that's a fraction of the cost of a replacement cluster ?
@@MalcolmCrabbe generally about half vs buying a refurbished programmed replacement with core exchange.
@@jacksmith3189 hi Jack. What's up?
How too want to know how to message you for a repair?
The "about" tab on my channel page has a contact option button.
Lots of miles
Hey Jeff i am a new subscriber to your channel and I love your work. Can you show me how to test the cluster with the signals? I'd love to see that. Thanks again for such great videos.
I have a chevy ECU and BCM mounted in a project box with pot's wired for bench testing.
@@jeffescortlx so I am assuming each manufactory uses different signals meaning I would need a ecu and BCM for each company to test these devices? Also you have the pots attached to the leads of the rpm and speed? Or rather to each dial to see if they move so I would need the ecu and BCM and the pinout for them correct and obviously a 12v power souce.
@@jeffescortlx is the plug and the pinout on the plug of all clusters the same accross the board. If so you could use the same ecu? I'm not sure what a BCM is however I will Google this.
@@ricor9358 actually OBD2 has many universal signals used with all manufacturers. That why one scan tool can work with many different cars. Industry standard signals.
19,103 hours, that's over 2 years of engine run-time
Did not know a gods mechanical curse could go that far.
Hi Jeff. Can you provide some contact info so I can contact you for a repair?
Under my channel "about" tab has a email contact button.
Fume.
Extractor.
Jeff this is frank again. Can I send you my cluster? Maybe you can do a miracle?
My contact information is found under my channel "about" tab.
I would suggest you start using a suction system. I now have terminal lung cancer from doing just what you are. be careful, you health is not worth.
I'm heart broken to hear this hobby/work can cause such a serious situation. I will be taking your advice and hope you can surprise your doctors and hang around long and happy.
#1st view
winner winner chicken dinner.
Ever heard of narriation
you act like its brain surgery.
lots of time spent using alcohol to get finger oils off of everything. except... the needles...
The alcohol on the PCB is more for removing flux. I rewatched the video and I don't see any fingerprints on the needles?