I've been loading 40 years and virtually all my shotgun loads were on the Lee Load All. As name implies comes with everything you need as bushings for powder and shot. I don't hunt and want unslit wads for long distance like a Federal Flight Control, just to see how far it will pattern. Fun vidio.
Wad slitting visegrips & razor awesome, uncut wad for measure awesome, remove primer assembly for extra height brass awesome, thanks for pointers , sometimes the simplest things are the great things.
Always looking for new information, (Tips) for reloading Shotgun shells just started loading for Shotgun a couple years ago. Still learning, started loading pistol and rifle many years ago. Back when shells were cheap not so anymore.
Thanks for posting this vid. I found it informative. and liked it! I use a Lee Loadall 2 for reloading 12 bore 2 3/4" with number 4 steel shot using Alliant Steel powder. I found that the Loadall bushings didn't give an accurate charge load due to the powder being fluffy and not suiting the volumetric bushings, so I weigh each charge. The busings for the steel were very good. For the wads, I have to use biodegradable material, no plastic, as we shoot over arable land. So I use fibre cup wads which work well, providing I use a 2mm nitro over charge card below the wad and a 2mm over charge card in 20 bore size, pressed into the base of the wad to stop the steel shot from piercing the base of the wad when fired.
Thanks for watching. I don't think I've ever used the Lee to drop powder or shot. I've been interested in fibre cup wads as of late. Do you make your own?
@@bullet225ho . No I don't make my own fibre cup wads. I get them from a supplier called Clay & Game in the UK. They are available in different lengths to suit your load. You do have to split them yourself. They work very well. Breaking down outside in around a month. They do put up with some moisture without breaking apart or going soft and sticky. Just as well if you take an unexpected paddle! If you don't reinforce the base of the cup with a card. Steel shot can get stuck into it when fired.
I just got a Load All II -- cost me $60 from Midway USA, and I ordered some other stuff to dilute the shipping. I went ahead and bought some once-fired hulls, because I don't get out to shoot as much as I'd like -- somehow, living in almost-rural North Carolina, every range I can find is an hour and a half or more away... But anyway, I've got two wad choices, two powder choices, a small bag of lead #8s (I'll get a full bag next time, but I was trying not to spend all my tax refund at once -- and likely get some steel wads and some Crosman or Daisy BBs, they seem to be cheaper than lead shot!). Primers I found locally, amazingly (Cheddite). I loaded up 25 shells first day I had it set up, 7/8 ounce of #8 lead, AA12SL clone wads, .134 bushing with 700X, and wound up needing a 20 ga. .125 nitro card in the shot cup and a couple bingo chips overshot to get good tight crimps. I'll most likely try shooting those before I load more, and probably jump up to 1 ounce and a little higher velocity (I expect these to be "kid" loads).
Here is what I've discovered with this loader/plastic powder bushings/Longshot combo....static builds up in the bushing and powder clings to the inside of the bushing, so after about 20 rounds, you'll start throwing low powder charges that are about 1.5gr lite. I've solved it by going with the next size larger bushing, throwing 20 or so charges to let the powder build up inside the bushing, then start loading. Of course, you can modify any of the bushings with a round file to make them a little larger or nail polish to make them throw less. I only load 2.75 BB in mine, so I've custom modified a couple of the powder bushings to throw 23.5 or 25.5gr depending on the wad I'm using (read the one I can find at the time).
I appreciate the videos man I just found your channel. I was an absolute idiot a couple years ago and sold my lee load all II and my shot. At the time I was really into prairie dog hunting and shotshells were super plentiful and just as cheap as reloading. I bought the "Lightning Steel" book and was loading some 1700 FPS 1 oz 12 gauge load and to be honest I got scared and never shot the damn things and sold it all. I still have a box or so of those reloads and I wasn't going to send them through my SBE2 with fear of gun damage. Regardless I got a 28 gauge Mossberg SA-28 a couple years ago and I am super passionate about reloading for that, but of course cannot find any components now! Regardless I appreciate the videos and I hope you keep making them.
I hate to hear you let go of some reloading equipment. I've let a gun or two go in the past that I wish I had back big time. The components are out there.....you just have to be patient and then be quick..LOL. Thanks for the comments and I'm going to be doing some more loading in the future and put on here.
God, haven't heard of the holy grail load outside of duck hunting chat in a long while. Used to shoot ot a lot of it before I went completely to the 20/28 for ducks. Took a pile of em to Arkansas for snows with #2 and #1 steel.
I'd say you could.....but I have no idea what it would do for pressure. Put together some and send them out for testing. If they test good then pattern them and see how they shoot.
@@bullet225hohey got another question. If I sub out csd118 for scd78 that wound eliminate any felt or cork spacers and it would fit 1/4 tss and 7/8 steel perfectly . And my question is wound csd78 perform the same as csd118? I just got a whole bag of csd78 already.
Would you possibly tell the powder charge for this load? I have a published one running 40gr. with Alliant Steel running 1545fps at 10900psi. To me this seems to be a lot and is tough to get a good crimp on. Thanks for any info.
Nice video i have just taken the dip into shotshell reloading and want to start making my cousin and i some duck loads been debating between steel and bismuth but there is i big price difference. I have a mec 600 jr and just bought a loadall for the crimp being easier.
I shoot the heck out of them. But the shot drop and powder drop are really close. And precision reloading sell wads that are cut save you some time. Great video and longshot powder works great.
I've been loading 40 years and virtually all my shotgun loads were on the Lee Load All. As name implies comes with everything you need as bushings for powder and shot.
I don't hunt and want unslit wads for long distance like a Federal Flight Control, just to see how far it will pattern. Fun vidio.
Wad slitting visegrips & razor awesome, uncut wad for measure awesome, remove primer assembly for extra height brass awesome, thanks for pointers , sometimes the simplest things are the great things.
Hope the tips help. Thanks for watching and good luck loading
Always looking for new information, (Tips) for reloading Shotgun shells just started loading for Shotgun a couple years ago. Still learning, started loading pistol and rifle many years ago. Back when shells were cheap not so anymore.
Thanks for posting this vid. I found it informative. and liked it! I use a Lee Loadall 2 for reloading 12 bore 2 3/4" with number 4 steel shot using Alliant Steel powder. I found that the Loadall bushings didn't give an accurate charge load due to the powder being fluffy and not suiting the volumetric bushings, so I weigh each charge. The busings for the steel were very good. For the wads, I have to use biodegradable material, no plastic, as we shoot over arable land. So I use fibre cup wads which work well, providing I use a 2mm nitro over charge card below the wad and a 2mm over charge card in 20 bore size, pressed into the base of the wad to stop the steel shot from piercing the base of the wad when fired.
Thanks for watching. I don't think I've ever used the Lee to drop powder or shot. I've been interested in fibre cup wads as of late. Do you make your own?
@@bullet225ho . No I don't make my own fibre cup wads. I get them from a supplier called Clay & Game in the UK. They are available in different lengths to suit your load. You do have to split them yourself. They work very well. Breaking down outside in around a month. They do put up with some moisture without breaking apart or going soft and sticky. Just as well if you take an unexpected paddle! If you don't reinforce the base of the cup with a card. Steel shot can get stuck into it when fired.
I just got a Load All II -- cost me $60 from Midway USA, and I ordered some other stuff to dilute the shipping. I went ahead and bought some once-fired hulls, because I don't get out to shoot as much as I'd like -- somehow, living in almost-rural North Carolina, every range I can find is an hour and a half or more away... But anyway, I've got two wad choices, two powder choices, a small bag of lead #8s (I'll get a full bag next time, but I was trying not to spend all my tax refund at once -- and likely get some steel wads and some Crosman or Daisy BBs, they seem to be cheaper than lead shot!). Primers I found locally, amazingly (Cheddite).
I loaded up 25 shells first day I had it set up, 7/8 ounce of #8 lead, AA12SL clone wads, .134 bushing with 700X, and wound up needing a 20 ga. .125 nitro card in the shot cup and a couple bingo chips overshot to get good tight crimps. I'll most likely try shooting those before I load more, and probably jump up to 1 ounce and a little higher velocity (I expect these to be "kid" loads).
I would love to see the 3 1/2" 12ga reloading video. Can't wait!
Working on it.
Here is what I've discovered with this loader/plastic powder bushings/Longshot combo....static builds up in the bushing and powder clings to the inside of the bushing, so after about 20 rounds, you'll start throwing low powder charges that are about 1.5gr lite. I've solved it by going with the next size larger bushing, throwing 20 or so charges to let the powder build up inside the bushing, then start loading.
Of course, you can modify any of the bushings with a round file to make them a little larger or nail polish to make them throw less.
I only load 2.75 BB in mine, so I've custom modified a couple of the powder bushings to throw 23.5 or 25.5gr depending on the wad I'm using (read the one I can find at the time).
I appreciate the videos man I just found your channel. I was an absolute idiot a couple years ago and sold my lee load all II and my shot. At the time I was really into prairie dog hunting and shotshells were super plentiful and just as cheap as reloading. I bought the "Lightning Steel" book and was loading some 1700 FPS 1 oz 12 gauge load and to be honest I got scared and never shot the damn things and sold it all. I still have a box or so of those reloads and I wasn't going to send them through my SBE2 with fear of gun damage. Regardless I got a 28 gauge Mossberg SA-28 a couple years ago and I am super passionate about reloading for that, but of course cannot find any components now! Regardless I appreciate the videos and I hope you keep making them.
I hate to hear you let go of some reloading equipment. I've let a gun or two go in the past that I wish I had back big time. The components are out there.....you just have to be patient and then be quick..LOL. Thanks for the comments and I'm going to be doing some more loading in the future and put on here.
God, haven't heard of the holy grail load outside of duck hunting chat in a long while. Used to shoot ot a lot of it before I went completely to the 20/28 for ducks.
Took a pile of em to Arkansas for snows with #2 and #1 steel.
My buddy really likes them. I've seen him smash birds a good ways out with 2s and 3s out is West TX. I haven't shot a 20 or 12 for ducks since 98.
Nice vid ;) great work!
Thanks buddy,
It’s a nice load. Got a question can you sub 1/4 of steel for tss and use a cork, felt spacer or buffer to bring the shot to the top of the wad?
I'd say you could.....but I have no idea what it would do for pressure. Put together some and send them out for testing. If they test good then pattern them and see how they shoot.
@@bullet225ho yea I’ll do that. Thx
@@bullet225hohey got another question.
If I sub out csd118 for scd78 that wound eliminate any felt or cork spacers and it would fit 1/4 tss and 7/8 steel perfectly . And my question is wound csd78 perform the same as csd118? I just got a whole bag of csd78 already.
Would you possibly tell the powder charge for this load? I have a published one running 40gr. with Alliant Steel running 1545fps at 10900psi. To me this seems to be a lot and is tough to get a good crimp on. Thanks for any info.
Not sure where that is published....but 32gn is where I sit.
Published on Ballistic Products in Load of The Week
Thank you for the reply it will help out a bunch.
Nice video i have just taken the dip into shotshell reloading and want to start making my cousin and i some duck loads been debating between steel and bismuth but there is i big price difference. I have a mec 600 jr and just bought a loadall for the crimp being easier.
Thanks for watching. Good luck on your reloading!!
I shoot the heck out of them. But the shot drop and powder drop are really close. And precision reloading sell wads that are cut save you some time. Great video and longshot powder works great.
Thanks for the comment. I was in a pinch and Precision was out of stock.....so I was stuck with slitting. I'll look into longshot recipe..Thanks
Would you do one of these but with a steel alternative? If not, what in this recipe would you change if you were loading bismuth?
I'm looking into ordering some bismuth for subguage loads. I could definitely see what I could come up with for 12ga.
I load a lot of BB and 00 buck on the Lee load all .
I like that load with steel 1s for geese and 3s but with LBC43 wad
Yep...that's a good load you got. 2's are smashers in it too.
@@bullet225ho Did you manage to do the 3" steel load ? , I use a really good 3" steel load get in touch if you want the data .