How To Level Your Ender 3 V3 SE And Tips To Help!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 พ.ย. 2023
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AFFILIAT LINKS THROUGH AMAZON -
Ender 3 V3 SE - amzn.to/3SXoFas
Bed Clips for Glass or G10 Beds - amzn.to/3MVyX79
Link to Creality Bed Level Test (Github) - github.com/bowsmin12/Ender-3-...
Over adhesion Disadhesion Tip Videos -
Scraper Tap - • How to Remove 3D Print...
Alcohol Mix Spray - • Simple Method for remo...
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Hot Water (Resin Print in vid but still may work) - • 3D printing trouble: I...
0:00 Intro
0:55 Step 1: Baseline Level
1:14 Step 2: Get a Bed Level Test
1:54 Step 3: Print the Test
2:28 Disclaimer and Warning
2:58 Step 4: Identifying Problem Areas
3:11 Over adhesion Advice
4:08 Examining The Test Print
4:34 Full Streak Holes
4:51 Streak Gaps
5:06 Wall Separation From Skin
5:39 Extreme Low Spots (Little or no plastic)
6:06 Low Spots (Ribbed Squares)
6:52 The Perfect Squares
7:29 Recap of Identifying Squares
8:26 Step 5: Adjust Points Accordingly
9:09 DON'T DO AUTO LEVELING
9:37 Tip 1: Write Findings Down
10:33 Tip 2: Don't use the stock bed longer than needed
10:59 Tip 3: Keep your test file
11:21 Tip 4: Orienting your test print
11:40 Outro - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I have to tell you guys my experience with the V3 SE. I was pretty disappointed, that the auto-level and auto-z-offset worked that bad in stock condition, but here's a tutorial how to configure your V3 SE perfectly. Make sure to follow each step:
1. Make sure your bed screws are tighened, mine became loose after just two benchy prints
2. If you have a big deviation in bed level, just create small washer discs in CAD and print them. I made one with 0,7mm height and one in 0,5mm height. Put them under the black plate stands to counter big deviations. With this trick, the maximum difference between front and back just went to about 0,04mm in total.
3. Make sure your X-Axis is aligned. Mine was pretty off from the factory and I had to realign it, creality even has a tutorial for that, using two glue sticks.
4. Always clean your print bed with 99,9% alcohol and a paper towel after each print.
5. Calculate the E-Steps of the extruder accordingly. Mine was a bit off from the factory. There's a good tutorial for the V3 SE, too.
6. As mentioned, stock auto-level is crap. Nozzle is either too near or too far away. After auto-leveling, edit the auto-level data and check each point using a piece of A4 paper. Make sure, the grip of the nozzle on the paper is the same on each point. The more time you took, the better the prints.
7. After you adjusted the level, print a complete flat surface over the print bed with just 50mm/s. Adjust the Z-Offset WHILE printing until you get a perfect flat layer. With this, you find the perfect Z-offset.
8. If you encounter problems with the first layer, after you done all this, try setting first layer flow to 105% or even more. Depends on the filament you use.
9. Mine made pretty bad noises on Y-Axis movements. That was because it nearly didn't have any lubrication on it. Putting a little bit mechanical grease on the rods solved it.
10. Adjust the maximum movements accordingly to the Ender V2. There's a youtube video too highlighting the differences (stock is 4000mm/s!!!!!). Your prints will come out much better with just this setting.
11. Last but not least... To get your prints off the bed, ALWAYS remove the bed and let it rest for 5 minutes until it is cooled down. Then bend it in both ways. Your print will jump off without using any force. I stopped using scrapers.
If you follow each of these steps, your V3 SE will do perfect prints.
Some of you guys in the comments are on the wrong path.
Okay, I've heard of the printed washers to physically level out your bed. But what I've been wondering is do they melt? If you print them out of PLA, the transition temperature is 60 C. Does the bottom of the bed not get as hot? I don't know how much heat the bed radiates, so does it reach them even if they're put under the stock standoffs / washers?
@@Bowsmin12 I put them washers under the plate stands and not directly under the plate, basically no heat is coming there. :)
@@GAGHUNF Well I just recently started working on a video about physically fixing my V3 SE, I'll be putting your suggestions to the test, would you like to be mentioned?
@@Bowsmin12 Make your video like you prefer. :)
Another tip for any first layer problems:
Reduce first layer speed in your slicer. I found out, the V3 SE doesn't like fast print speeds on first layer. A maximum of 25mm/s with an max acceleration speed of just 50mm/s works fine for me to even print small details, like christmas snowflake decoration (very small!). All other steps above required too, of course. As soon as you bump up first layer speed, problems occur.
In my opinion the V3 SE is a very good printer, just poorly calibrated from factory and badly advertised, with functions which won't work as promised.
When does the level data change take place when adjusting the level data. You said to change it while using paper, but I don't think adjusting the level data is a live or active adjustment unlike the Zoffset or simple movements.
After almost giving up on my printer, you showed me the right way to debug. Thank you so much!
Glad to hear I helped!
Printing on a mirror is the only way to go. They are dead flat. Adhesion and print removal are never a problem. Throw the glue sticks out. Initially, clean the mirror with soap and water and then wipe with a microfiber cloth. Cool the prints to less than 30c and they will pop right off. Gently scrape the surface with a single edge razor blade and wipe with the microfiber cloth between prints. You can buy mirror tiles and a glass cutter from Lowes and cut to whatever size. You can also buy different sizes of mirrors online for the Ender and others. Printing on a mirror is worth the initial effort. You will never, ever print on anything else. Guaranteed!
Nobody is going to own both a mirror AND single edge razor blades! Oh... wait.... never mind. :D
@@DrFierohahaha,good one!
@@DrFiero😂😂😂. They go well together.
Thank you for getting that test print and sharing it, I really appreciate it!
If you want to be able to experiment with slicer settings, someone made a similar version of the level test on Printables. It's just called Ender 3 V3 SE level test or something like that. Of course this test should be able to be fixed with the printer by itself typically.
This was so helpful!!! I can't believe this video does not have more views. THANK YOU!!!
Happy to hear it helped.
Hey man, thanks for share this useful info, I really appreciate it.
Great video! Thank you!
i know other comments have said it but i wanted to also thank you personally for sharing the test print!
Thanks. After a few obnoxious comments on other videos and stuff lately, I needed that.
I received my ender 3 vs se 8 days ago and it printed amazing. No tuning needed. 4 days later it wouldn't print anything without grinding the nozzle into the bed or peeling everything it extruded off the bed.....I kept tweaking the z offset manually but it still wouldn't work. Finally found today that the screws that hold the hotend onto the extruder chassis had come loose so the hotend was flopping all over the place. I'd recommend pulling the extruder apart and checking all the screws to anybody else that has problems......I also readjusted the gantry since it was off when the auto leveling did its thing.....hope that helps someone else too!
Haven't heard the extruder one yet, thank you for letting us know.
Exact same experience. Going to check this just in case. Thanks!
Also, the screws on the bed were loose.
The screws on the hotend weren't my problem. I'm trying to level the gantry but keep failing. One side is firm in place, the other is loose.
I'm super new to this, so I have no other ideas. I was super happy with it, after 2 prints this became a nightmare.
@@TheDawnhero This is a link to a creality video about a bunch of stuff that can come loose and be tightened. Can you check all of these points in the video if you haven't already? P.S. I don't know about you but it helps me to focus on the video if I mute their music, it kinda annoys the crap out of me. Let me know how this works out.
give us that link, @@Bowsmin12
Ever since i updated the firmware i thought i fucked up real bad as my prints would be jumbled garbage and all information i could find was for the manual leveling printers. You helped me fix this annoying problem i had for the past couple of weeks. Thank you
Glad it helped
Awesome video! You're a lifesaver
I had this printer and it was flawless for nearly a month. I was so spoiled by this... One day it just said "screw you!" and started failing every job. I finally had to seek out knowledge like you have shared and thus far, it's made an improvement. I am getting prints now but I need to tweak things more. After that, no more auto-level for this guy. As much as it made me lose my religion several times over, I now have more know-how and I can't complain about that. Ok, I might complain a bit. I also started keeping a diagram of good/failed spots on the grid printout. Thanks for the info!
What did you do my printer worked fine for about 3 weeks now its failing most prints
Thank you. Your comment made my day.
I had to go through and tighten all the screws i could see, then i leveled the x-axis. this all helped. waiting on a set of calipers to do e-steps which should help too.
I watched both of your videos on the leveling issue. I too thought I have a leveling issue because my auto leveling and auto z offset varied so greatly. I had another issue that accompanied this issue. It sounded like the nozzle was skipping across certain areas (especially the infill). I saw a post on reddit that led me to check the squareness of the x axis frame. mine seemed pretty square though. So I thought something was loose or out of adjustment. I decided to go thru the entire machine and check every single screw. As I suspected, other than the screws on the couplers to the z axis drive rods and the screws I installed on when putting the x axis frame on. The loosest screws were the ones holding the mechanism that connects the little plates inside the x z axis assembly to the drive rod (not sure of all the names to the parts as I've only started this hobby about 4 weeks ago). Now that I have tightened every single screw on this printer, it seems to be doing a lot better, and running the auto leveling/auto z axis offset 4 times, the variances are much more consistent and lower,. Another thing I change due to over adhesion, was the bed plate. I was using the stock pc plate, but switched to the smooth pei plate and now my prints adhere perfectly during printing but pop right off with a slight flex. I haven't had to use glue or hair spray to get things to stick either.
your room is so early 2000s i love it
Kinda feels like the era I'm stuck in even though I was born in 2002. From my room to my music.
Great video and great info. I just get the same printer having the same problem.
Nice video thank you
Thanks for uploading the g-code to Github! I noticed the gcode does not load the auto-leveling mesh from the printer (command "M420 s1"). Do you know if that was on purpose?
For the purpose of leveling, should the test print NOT auto-load the mesh?
This is a common question regarding the start gcode in general. I do not know if there is any benefit or hindrance to adding the line, but creality does not include it on their start gcode for the printer in creality print. at least last I heard. At the same time cura's relatively new profile for the E3V3SE does include the line by default.
Personally I don't see a reason to add it because changes are happening when you adjust the auto leveling data. Therefor I think it is being loaded regardless of that line. The only reason I would see to add it is if you are making changes to the data, and no changes are happening in the print. But since we are also working with very small adjustments, you have to be careful with that mentality as well.
Find a good z offset test, or just a single large flat layer. And you can adjust the z offset in real time. I was able to get a fairly decent print again by lowering my z offset by about -0.1 (in -.02 increments). Do it slowly so you can see the layers at each adjustment.
I may have had a different issue, but this definitely solved my issue without having to do each offset individually.
Thank you for the test print, this is I might go to test print for z offset.
I learned a ton in this video, thanks again for putting it together!
If I've got a high point - the nozzle's too close to the bed - then shouldn't we increase the height of that point on the mesh?
For example, the front left corner is pretty rough, and the mesh has it at -0.03. If I raised it to -0.05, wouldn't the nozzle adjust updawards for the increase in height?
Same goes for low points - lowering the point by a little would adjust the nozzle down in that area.
If I remember correctly, the way I was trying to explain it is that high points are when your nozzle is too far away from the bed. But you are correct about needing to raise the number if you have a spot too close too the bed. However in your example, you are lowering the height. In terms of raising the height, negative numbers decrease and positive numbers increase. Did I say something wrong in the video? If I did, can you leave me a timestamp so I can see about doing something to fix it.
@@Bowsmin12 Yup you're right, my bad :D. I did some testing with that gCode and got some pretty tight spots, so I raised that spot in the mesh by about 0.02. So if the spot was -0.04, the new value would be -0.02. This makes the hot end go up, giving me a better layer at that point.
@@PatFriedl Glad to help and clarify. I mess up numbers and typing all the time so most times I have to double or triple check and make sure.
How do you turn off the auto level/auto calibration before each print?
I have mine set by myself and then evrry time it goes to print it will ne too high, so i have to fine tune Z offset within the skirt/brim print and then its fine. Its like it doesn't keep my z offset...
I think there's an on/off button for a pre calibration when starting every print. It will be on by default but you can click it off and I think it will stay that way. Unless you're having a separate issue. Let me know if this helps.
I found that my problem was caused by the screws coming loose. It's a good start to check each one. I had quite a few that came loose.
Mentioned that in a different video.
On the Creality bed level gcode, I noticed it does not do the M410 S1. So the print doesn't use the mesh. If we're adjusting the mesh to work better, shouldn't the gcode use the mesh?
Thanks for posting the video, been searching for adjusting the autolevel for months on the 3v3SE and getting all the other non 3v3SE videos.
I think some other people have mentioned this, but as far as I can tell it still uses the leveling data one way or another. My guess is that the get mech command should be in the start gcode of the slicer. So It possibly gets added that way. When I did the leveling test, the adjustments slowly made a difference which means it has to work somehow.
I don't know if the other comment was removed but there is a separate menu. I made another leveling video recently because I was finally able to update the firmware to 1.0.6. I don't remember if I put the menu navigation in this video, but if I didn't, the 1.0.6 video has it and it should be the same even if you're still using 1.0.4.
@@Bowsmin12 Yea, sorry, I remembered seeing it, and found it as soon as I posted, so I then deleted it.
The question was: Is there a way to edit level data without rerunning autoleveling. The answer is yes, it's under Control Menu then Edit Level Data.
@@no_such_reality4552 I figured it was something like that, but I wanted to message back just in case.
I see you're using a G10 build plate - nice! Do you have links to the corner clips you used?
www.amazon.com/Ender-Adjustable-Printer-Compatible-Creality/dp/B0BX98FT9R/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1ANR47KKR23IE&keywords=4Pcs+Ender+3+v2+Bed+Clips+Blue&qid=1700764283&sprefix=4pcs+ender+3+v2+bed+clips+blue%2Caps%2C302&sr=8-3
One weird thing about these clips is that sometimes they leave what looks like a blue stain on my G10 plate. But when I pick up the plate and remove it from the heating area typically it goes away. They work functionally, just weird little side effect.
Can you explain the number grid? Or to be specific does increasing the amount raise or lower the bed. ( what puts the hot end closer to the bed .54 or .53?)
It can be confusing what raises and lowers, especially that we are working with both positive and negative numbers.
If you have a positive number and you want the nozzle closer, the visible number will decrease. If you have a negative number and want the nozzle to be closer, then the visible number will increase.
Another good way to remember is the direction you spin the knob will always do the same increase or decrease of values. I believe turning the knob to the left will always decrease the value, but I may be misremembering.
@@Bowsmin12 believe it or not but I'm still confused. But I figured it out. Turn right for bigger gap (if you are negative head towards zero if you are positive already go higher) turn left to move nozzle closer.
My printer does auto leveling fine on the whole plate except the right quarter. It was way overcompensated. Like the correct value is about -0.2x this thing had it -0.5x. but ya every time. Only the right quarter of the plate the entire other 3/4 does great.
how do you raise the nozzle up or down? how do you change the bed to be more level if its not auto-leveling?
Z offset will change the overall height of the nozzle. There is an option called edit level data and that's how you manually change the points to hopefully make it work more consistently.
Do you now what calibration as described influence on?
Regulating the flow all over the bed depending on local offset, so the model top layer is flat, but model height is not equal at all over the flat top surface, or by regulating extruder Z, so top surface od the model is parallel to the bed (warped)?
I'm not for sure if I'm understanding you right. But it makes sure your printer head is the same average distance from the bed, all over the bed. Beds often times aren't perfectly level and that's why people used to use glass. With flex beds they conform more and with the Z offset it would change the starting print height, but as a flat layer over the entire bed. With the auto probe points it shifts the height of the first layer depending on where the head is on the bed. Unfortunately most units of this printer aren't accurate with the auto level, so the manual data point leveling makes sure the Z offset is optimal across the entire bed. I hope this helps.
If anything else isn't level, like your top layer, there is probably other issues.
@@Bowsmin12 Sorry, I've made typing errors. Now I corrected it, + "*" sign beside corrected text. Please read again.
@@antunrosovic7284 Unfortunately it looks like something went wrong and the corrections didn't post. The original message doesn't have the edited tag either, so I don't know if you may have forgotten to press post or if it didn't go through but it looks like you will need to correct it again, sorry.
@@Bowsmin12 oh, yes, sorry. Now is ok.
@@antunrosovic7284 Okay. I'm sorry I'm still having a hard time understanding but I think what you're asking is, if the bed is tilted will the print be printed tilted as well and will the adjustment affect the height of the print?
if so 1. Honestly when it comes to how the finished product would come out in this scenario, it's a bit of a thinker. I think your print might be slightly crooked, but typically it's not noticeable or a big deal because of how small the variations typically are.
2. The height can be affected by the Z offset / leveling. But again this is typically too small of a variation to notice if it does affect your prints. Hopefully this helps.
HELP! My nozzle seems to be close to the prints but only in the front area. I have upgraded to the NebulaPad and it doesnt seem to let me manually adjust the numbers after running this print test. How do i adjust these settings with the NebulaPad?
I have manually adjust the z-axis which lessened the issue in the front, but it seems not leveled in terms of front to back height and idk how to adjust it. I am SUPER new to 3D printing
@@ambercovert4099 This is honestly my first time hearing about the nebula pad. So unfortunately I can't personally help you. If you are willing to use reddit, you might be able to try the Ender 3 V3 SE subreddit. It seems like others have been having all sorts of issues with it based on a quick scroll through. I don't know if anyone has had the same issue, but it's at least worth a look. And of course you can try making a post. Majority of the posts are support and help posts on that subreddit.
www.reddit.com/r/Ender3V3SE/
@@Bowsmin12 You are a LIFESAVER! I found a relevant post on there! Turns out I had to remove the hotbed & sand down a couple spacers under the front screws. I was then able to level it perfectly with the back. THANKS A BUNCH
@@ambercovert4099 I'm glad you found a solution. Though there should be a way to change the level data manually somehow. Or at least you would figure as much. I would do more research on that just in case for the future. I'm also probably more fearful than you when making permanent modifications. People have recommended sanding down the spacers but I'm too worried to do it until I find replacements somewhere. Anyway, I hope you enjoy your time making cool plastic thingies!
Ty
I hate to be so dense but kind of new to this. I've copied the Creality test print spoken of to a text doc, but what do I do with it now?
Github doesn't make it obvious, but you have to download the raw file. When you're looking at the code, don't. At the header of it, where it says code and blame, look to the right side of that bar and click the download button. You should then be able to import the Gcode file into Creality print. Let me know if you can find everything alright. I can make a small video tutorial if needed.
Got it. Thanks.@@Bowsmin12
Good guide, stuffs work just like described, except, maybe in my case only - testing with paper is useless.
why does it turn off after clicking leveling then does something for a second
The steel and the PEI surface will separate if it sticks and you yank it off. I use a safety razor to come underneath it.
Can you clarify what is sticking to what in this suggestion? Is the plate sticking to the bed area or is a print sticking to the plate?
You must have had some bad luck. My ender 3 V3 SE does not have this problem! Auto level works fine, without touching it I can print the 16 point test with no adjustment or problems!
do you the gcode for any other calibration prints from creality?
Most other test prints are made by the community publicly for anyone to use on sites like thingiverse and printables. There is a public version of the 4x4 point grid made by someone on printables now. The link for the original test is in the description. Hope this helps.
@@Bowsmin12 thanks, it did help.
Tengo una duda, al nivelarla automáticamente solo da un click, regresa a su punto de inicio, se apaga y prende y no se termina de nivelar, alguna solución? Aún nadie me puede resolver 😢
¿Has intentado volver a actualizar (reinstalar) el firmware? Si no, lo intentaría. Ojo con la versión 1.0.6, he tenido problemas para instalarla. Probaría primero la versión 1.0.4. Esto fue traducido con Google Translate, espero que ayude.
Hola, tengo el mismo problema lo pudiste solucionar?
@@aguilarescobedojonatan7622 Si bro, en mi casa hay voltaje 210 y yo puse la máquina en 230 pero lo tuve que cambiar a 115 y ya funcionó
Igual también le coloqué un regulador por las dudas de eso del voltaje, pero intenta eso
@@aguilarescobedojonatan7622 Si tienes el mismo problema, la sugerencia que le hice al otro tipo es intentar actualizar (reinstalar) el firmware y ver si funciona desde allí. Como también dije antes, tenga cuidado con la versión 1.0.6, probaría primero la 1.0.4 y vería si soluciona su problema. (traducido a través del traductor de google)
Get the nebula pad it helped my prints alot faster to
When i do the automated level test, my 3D printer shuts down. Is that normal?
When does it shut down?
@@Bowsmin12 Hi, it was because my printer was on 230 V Instead of 120 V
@@PrimerOrdenVenezuela Very common, at least it was an easy fix!
Hello wee dog.
I’ve had 5 of these none lasting more than a week before the print quality became very poor then eventually printing nothing. They are garbage.
I have a nebula pad, cant edit
I think I've heard about that issue before. Unfortunately the few times I've heard of the nebula pad, they weren't good things.
I hate it when my nozzle rubs too close to the bed. It does end up making a mess requiring the bed to be cleaned before trying again.
;)
Arrrghhg, - that audio processing 🥺😮😵💫😫😩
What's wrong with it
@@Bowsmin12 its noisy