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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ค. 2024
- Alpine climbing Großglockner Stüdlgrat Ridge is amazing! If you would like to climb one of the most spectacular ridges in the Austrian European Alps, then this alpine climbing video about the Großglockner Stüdlgrat Ridge will be highly relevant for you! Because in this alpine climbing video I will talk about climbing the famous Stüdlgrat on Großglockner in Austria
The Stüdlgrat Ridge on Großglockner is one of the biggest classic alpine climbs in the European Alps within a reasonable grade and there are a couple of very good reasons for that!
In this alpine climbing video about Großglockner Stüdlgrat Ridge I will also provide topo, tips and techniques on how to climb Großglockner.
The Großglockner Stüdlgrat Ridge is graded AD+ and follows the prominent South West ridge to the summit of Großglockner. It is at least a full day, and most people spend the night at the Stüdlhütte refuge before the climb.
You approach the Großglockner Stüdlgrat Ridge by parking at the parking lot near Lucknerhaus and hike up towards the Stüdlhütte. This hike takes about 2-3 hours based on your condition. Based on when you climb the Großglockner Stüdlgrat Ridge you can either stay in the summer hut or the winter hut.
When you are ready to be alpine climbing the Großglockner Stüdlgrat Ridge head up the loose scree path across the Stüdlhütte for around 200m before crossing the moraine and then follow the right hand side of the glacier for a few hundred metres to the start of the Großglockner Stüdlgrat Ridge.
You can break the Großglockner Stüdlgrat Ridge into three overall climbing sections.
The first section is rather easy and mostly involves grade 1 and 2 climbing with a few grade 3 sections. You climb the lefthand side of Großglockner Stüdlgrat Ridge and most can be climbed by moving together. There are some iron pikes and a few bolts, but I placed several cams as extra protection despite the low grade.
The second starts at The Fruhstuck Platz - the Breakfast Ledge! The Grossglockner Stüdlgrat Ridge intensifies, and we had to pitch a few or the harder sections. There are several A0 sequences too with fixed rope to pull in.
The final section is the summit. The Großglockner Stüdlgrat Ridge easens out abot 50 meters before the summit, and you will soon see the big cross on the summit!
You descent the Großglockner Stüdlgrat Ridge via the Kleinerglockner and this should not be underestimated! There are more loose rock and probably ice and snow too, and with the many people ascending via the Normal Route to the Kleinerglocker, passing other teams increases risk.
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Alpinklettern Grossglockner Stüdlgrat ist der Hammer! Wenn Sie einen der spektakulärsten Grate der österreichischen Alpen besteigen möchten, dann ist dieses alpine Klettervideo über den Großglockner-Stüdlgrat von großer Relevanz für Sie! Denn in diesem alpinen Klettervideo werde ich über das Klettern auf dem berühmten Stüdlgrat am Großglockner in Österreich sprechen
Der Stüdlgrat am Großglockner ist einer der größten klassischen alpinen Anstiege in den europäischen Alpen mit einer angemessenen Steigung. Dafür gibt es einige sehr gute Gründe!
Der Großglockner-Stüdlgrat ist mit AD + bewertet und folgt dem markanten Südwestgrat bis zum Gipfel des Großglockners. Es ist mindestens ein ganzer Tag, und die meisten Menschen übernachten vor dem Aufstieg in der Berghütte Stüdlhütte.
Sie nähern sich dem Großglockner-Stüdlgrat, indem Sie auf dem Parkplatz beim Lucknerhaus parken und in Richtung Stüdlhütte aufsteigen. Diese Wanderung dauert je nach Kondition ca. 2-3 Stunden. Je nachdem, wann Sie den Großglockner-Stüdlgrat besteigen, können Sie entweder in der Sommerhütte oder in der Winterhütte übernachten.
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If you enjoyed watching this alpine climbing video remember to watch some of the other videos I’ve done about alpine climbing in the European Alps such as:
► How to climb Aiguille Purtscheller near Chamonix: • How to climb Aiguille ...
Or
► How to climb Mönch in the Swiss Alps: • How to climb Mönch in ...
Either way, leave a comment below if you have any questions regarding the Grossglockner Stüdlgrat Ridge, or if you are seeking information about other alpine climbing routes in the Alps.
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You'd really deserve much more subscribers/views!..."unfortunately" it's a niche content and not the most popular. Hope that one day you'll get rewarded for your efforts. Keep it up!
Thank you so much, Anton! I really appreciate you feedback :) Yeah, it is a niche, but I do it for fun and to help other alpine climbers out there - not for fame and glory, haha! ;) Even though doing climbing videos for a living would be a dream :)
Really appreciate your videos, full of knowledge & information.
They're really proving really helpful for me to decide when & where I can start my Alpine experience.
So Many Thanks
I am really happy to hear that 😄 Thank you!
We did the climb on 8th to 10th August this year 2022 and it was perfect. We did the ascent with 40m single rope; we used 10 express; cca 8 slings; 3 friends 0,5, 1 , 2. We were using a lot of security and it took us 8 hours, starting from 5:30. Perfect climb, yet there were minor troubles with other teams soloing the route.
Wow, spectacular Video! Nice to see the climb from a bird's eye perspective :)
Still on my bucket list is the rougher Nordwestgrat to the peak - the north western ridge. Should be a nice challenge. Maybe you also want to give it a shot!
Thank you, Andreas!:D
Yeah, the Nordwestgrat sounds amazing! I have actually looked at the Mayerlrampe on the north face as a potential next project.
Wonderful video and great advice, I am going there in September with my CAI group and will do either this ridge or the Via Normale, our course leader will decide for us! Hope to do the ridge and it was nice to have a preview!!
Thank you, Alvise! 😄 Both the Stüdlgrat and the Normalweg/Via Normale to the summit of Großglockner are fantastic routes! You will enjoy both 😄
Love this video
wunderbar
Great video! We did the route yesterday as a daytrip, and i love rewatching my climbs the day after on TH-cam .
You said, its difficulty is comparable to the mittelegiridge on Eiger, is that really true? And do know any other comparable climbs? I've done Ortler via Hintergrat and plan on doing the Biancograt.
Well done, Frank! 😄 It is a really great climb!
Yeah, I think it is pretty much comparable. It shares many of the same aspects except the Eiger has a more prominent final ridge leading to the summit. They are both full day outings.
I haven’t done Hintergrat or Biancograt, though. You could consider the North Ridge of Piz Badile?
Hey you're videos are phenomenal. I really appreciate the time and detail you put into helping inform others of all these adventures. I was hoping I could contact you somehow and discuss some winter options for mountaineering in the alps? I am heading there in January and i am finding it difficult to get information for winter ascents, particularly around chamonix
Thank you so much, RedPanda915 😄 I really appreciate your support!
What kind of climbs are you looking for? Ridges, north faces etc? And what grade are you climbing? 😄 There are loads of winter routes around Chamonix near Mont Blanc.
@@Cragcloud thank you so much for responding to this! Honestly anything up to AD/D is fine but probably the easier the better as my partner is still new to it all and wants to build up some volume in the easier stuff to improve her confidence and skills.
WI4, 6c are at my limit atm as well. Any style of climbs too, my partner loves scrambling. I have been finding it hard to find information on routes when it comes to winter so thank you so much for anything you can tell me.
I think stuff like the Arete des Cosmique (AD) on Aiguille du Midi near Chamonix would be great for your partner. It is a one day climb and ends at the Arete des Cosmique lift station. Otherwise you should consider climbing Chere Couloir (WI4, D) on Triangle du Tacul, which is a big classic in Chamonix. You could also consider Dent du Geant SW face (AD+), but I would probably wait doing that until spring.
If you want to do some ice climbing you should visit Cogne in north Italy. That is amazing and has everything from WI3 to WI6 and M4 to M11! :D
@@Cragcloud haha that is exactly what we had planned! First few days we were going to attempt arete des cosmique and chere colouir then spend another 4 or 5 days at cogne valley. How ever we will have another 2 or so weeks after that which we are also trying to fill. Ill have a look into Gent du geant SW face ad well. Cheers for that
Haha! Well, that is perfect! Those are great climbs!
If you would like to do some high altitude rock climbing, then you should consider climbing Rebuffat-Pierre (TD-, 6a+) (I made a video about that too) or Rebuffat-Baquet (TD+, 6a). They are two fantastic rock climbs near Aiguille du Midi. If you are looking for harder stuff, then take a look at Gran Capucin, where the easiest route is Swiss Route (6b).
Near Glacier du Tour you will also find the Forbes Arete (AD) and Migot Spur (D-) on Aiguille Chardonnet, they are both classics within a reasonable grade. And if you are looking for a super classic that involves both rock climbing and ice climbing, then you should look at Frendo Spur (D+).
In Cogne I can recommend Tutto é Relativo (WI4), Lillaz Gully (WI4), Cascata de Patri (WI4/WI4+) and Mondey Money (WI4). The super classic here is Repetence Super (WI6). But, there are so many great climbs in Cogne!
You could also visit Berner Oberland in Switzerland and climb some of the routes there - e.g. the Mittellegi Ridge on the Eiger ;)
Super video. may I ask what camera gear are you using?
Yes, of course 😄 This video I shot with my Sony A6500, but usually I just go with my Sony A5100 as it is much lighter and compact.
Nice video and nice climb with some fond memories. Did you have any issues using a drone for these shots? I was thinking about bringing mine back then but wasn't sure if there would be problems and also didn't want to annoy other climbers. ...oh and for anyone thinking about this one (with regards to the conditions), looking for the webcams covering this area, especially from Franz-Josef hut, is a good idea
Hi Chris! Thanks for asking 😄
In terms of wind, then no. I fly with the DJI Mavic 2 Zoom and it handles strong wind quite well 😄
Usually, I ask people if it is okay I fly with the drone, and usually people say yes. And, the I share the video with them 😄 I think most people find drones a bit fascinating, so people are often pretty interested in it.
The reason why I chose the DJI Mavic 2 Zoom was also so I could keep a distance to other climbers. It shoots 4K and I can zoom in pretty much. I think it goes from 18mm to 50mm or something like that, so I don’t have to fly that close to people 😄
The only drawback is that it takes up quite some space in the backpack, haha!
@@Cragcloud Thanks for the quick reply. I was more thinking about legal issues. I realize, official regulation and practice is often different, so I was wondering if you were given any grief, as does not seem the case. Cheers
Ahhh, well, if there is a ban, then I do not fly, and I also think about not disturbing wildlife. I try to familiarise myself with local legislation on drones before going an a climbing trip, but sometimes I cannot find any information or it is confusion.
I have flown before and then later found out that I was not allowed to fly - as with Cogne in the Gran Paradiso national park in Italy.
Hi all, I am planning to climb Grossglockner in the end of June with a guide. Seen my experience (hiking up to 2600m and climbing Mont Blanc gouter route), I was thinking to do the normal route. Now, I am the kind of person who loves a challenge and wants to take the more difficult route. What are your recommendations on this? Safety is ofc number 1 priority. Can I compare the studlgrat to the gouter wall of mont blanc? Not depending on the route, I will train on an indoor wall for 1-2 months. If possible, I would like to take the studlgrat. What are your opinions? I'm not afraid of heights and I have sure footedness.
Really good question :) Stüdlgrat is harder and more technical than the Normal Route. I wouldn't say you can really compare it to the Goûter Route of Mont Blanc. The Goûter Route is more now slope hiking/climbing, while the Stüdlgrat involves a lot actual, real rock climbing - pretty low grade, though. But, if you lead the Stüdlgrat, then you have to know how to place protection such as cams and nuts, and how to navigate. If you don't have any experience with alpine rock climbing, then I think you should go with a guide.
The Normal Route (normalweg) on Großglockner is still a fine challenge, and a good climb. I would probably recommend you to climb that one first to gain experience, and then maybe come back and do the Stüdlgrat later :)
Another option could be to hire a guide and do the Arete des Cosmique in Chamonix. It sits in between Stüdlgrat and the Normal Route on Großglockner, but still offers lots of exposure :)
O
How did it compare time-wise to your Mittellegi Ridge climb?
Overall, it is more or less the same, but there are more climbing and a few steeper, longer aid sections a A0 on the Mittellegi Ridge, so the climbing takes longer, but then the approach from the Mittellegi Hut is 0 minutes as the hut is located at the beginning of the climb.
Thanks, great video.
Thank you, bradseed66 😄