ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ย. 2024
- Installing LEDs in a cintiq 24HD for which the CCFLs have failed.
More info is available on my blog at www.ronox.xyz/w... or chat on my discord at / discord
LED strip used is 2x 540mm replacement LED backlight from aliexpress, stepdown converter used is an XL4015 (is available in models with on board voltage and current displays).
Again, full details on literally everything in greater detail is available on the blog.
edit COB LEDs on aluminium plate PCB is far superior and can match the original screen brightness, search for 500 or 600mm x 6mm COB strips, youll want 18W strips or therabouts, its occasionally possible to buy 5 of them for only $3ea, otherwise you might be tough pressed to find ones that dont cost $20each
Music - Airport Lounge - Disco Ultralounge by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Source: incompetech.com...
Artist: incompetech.com/
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 พฤศจิกายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wPd7VFfWHIA/mqdefault.jpg)
How I mastered every screw returning to its home when disassembling... I didn't. I take a much simpler approach. Record the the entire process and play it in reverse. Fail proof. Videos never lie. Works every time. 🙂
every time i have had spare screws haha
I love the derpy hooves on the desktop background. And thanks for recording this, it's very helpful. I just acquired a 24HD with a broken backlight.
I have a paperweight for almost two year, a cintiq 22HD and nobody know how to repair that wacom in Colombia and is too expensive to send it to other country for repair; but after see this, I will try, I have nothing to lose
good luck, if you need some help, i have a discord server discord.gg/XtHR6FX and i can help you find some stuff, or walk you through things.
Every Wacom disassembly vid is a public service. 🙏
Now if only I could find one for my 13HD so I can have a chance at getting it back to being digital paper instead of a digital paperweight. I hate this age of "sleek looking" everything with hidden screws, glue and clips.
After a little bit of research i discovered you can get long COB LED bars, about 6mm wide up to 600mm long, which perform exactly at the range i intended the LED strip i was going to build , to function at, plus its on aluminium PCB. Im going to see how they handle being cut down in size, odds are it will be fine and just take out about 3-4 LEDs worth of length up the bar. If they work, and assuming its as efficient as the retrofitting kits, that will be an exact double in power which should match the original brightness of the CCFLs
Did replacing the backlight with leds cause the heat it generates to drop, as the top of the cintiq 24hd gets really hot. Also side note do you know where to get replacement fans as mine have started that grinding noise? Thanks for any help!
any 12v fans of similar size should be fine, but some people are annoyed by non-silent fans so my advice is to consider buying special silent PC fans instead , also once i switched to COB LEDs, no, the heat didnt drop that much, a bit, bu not much @@Vysukai
Woah this is exactly the problem I had with my 24HD last year it completely went black but I can slightly see the desktop. I might have to pull it out of storage and see if I can repair it!
if the picture is there, just very dark and theres no screen illumination then you 100% can repair it for sure.
Thank you very much for this!! You are a life savior!!
I'm getting a second-hand 24HD Cintiq with the backlights burnout and I'm gonna try to do this once I get the tablet home.
You're a hero for this. @Wacom should pay attention and offer some kind of trade program for this horseshit design flaw. I plan to do this LED swap in the near future, so thanks!
they kinda already are, knowing they should, i got a really strong impression that they were being super lax on the warranty claims, like, mine was definitely a year or so over but if i could provide a receipt they said theyd still repair it for free anyway, though they dont cover freight to or from.
From what ive heard when people talk about how they send their displays in for repair, what usually happens is the wacom power supply gets messed up by the high voltage discharge and loses power capacity which can cause the monitor to turn off sometimes, so, they usually just swap out the power supply and dont even look inside. then, pretty soon the new supply gets degraded the same way. People usually say the same thing, "it worked for X months then started doing the thing again".
I mentioned this in the blog probably but, when the CCFLs are in their death spiral, they usually start up fine still if they are warm. Either way though the high voltage leads still zap the backplate. If the wacom technicians testing area is quite warm or monitors are stored in say, a room with direct sunlight or something, then thats another way they might not notice the issue. 99% of the time when they get a repair, the user offers only shoddy details, they are artists after all, they usually wont be able to make observations or join the dots together (like how failing more in cold vs hot means CCFLs degrading) about electrical faults, and the technicians only test the monitor for a few minutes, thats why this issue blows through so easily, if it starts up once fine at the repair shop, it will probably turn on again easily unless it stays off for about an hour to cool down.
Wacom also would be hesitant to replace CCFLs with LEDs simply because it will definitely change the color of the monitor, artists would definitely notice a change in the color spectrum and would be annoyed even if its technically better.
Fortunately this gives me the opportunity to invent an opensource LED retrofitting driver. Ill probably do a blog post about it soon with a basic drawing.
Itle be neat to make and sell something, plus even though im making the design open and available for people to do their own, its still cheaper to buy one from me just because with almost every part it uses, the cost for 10pcs is only like twice as much as for just 1. Especially the crazy strong COB led strips i plan to use, those pricks are unobtainable for under $50-100 (maybe 1 or 2 exceptions for $20-30 EACH), like, you simply cannot buy 1 or 2, you gotta get 10-20 of them (so, actual cost is like $4-7 i find).
The theres also the tiny arduino microcontroller that will manage it all, its not something you can just plug a USB cable into.
I'm all for an approach like this! As you said most users are going to be artists, so any downtime for repairs is going to be eating into art/production time.. but I'd rather be looking at a long-term fix than a recurring one. Thanks again for your time and focus! I'll keep an eye out for more of your content here.
@@ronoxengineering I bought my cintiq 27qhd refurbished (original in the wacom store). I used it only 2 times, before i got a backlight error. They didn't agree to repair it, because the 1year warrenty was over. Since a few DAYS only! I payed around 1600€ for the cintiq and they've asked 1000€ for the repair. It makes me angry, because bought it to become self-employed. I'm not technophilic and I'm not going to pay 1000€ for the repair service. I would never buy any wacom products again.
@@jeyfi1663 it depends on the country, here in australia they were willing to fix it for free even though it was like 3 years post warranty, though here we do have a national law that basically makes warranties obsolete, unless its an extended warranty, basically if it breaks before its expected life-span under reasonable conditions, they have to at least offer a reasonable repair, if not outright replace it. But thats just here
If you want some dumbed down assistance to get it up and running, feel free to chat with me on my discord server, the link is up the top on my blog, link in description.
Its not especially difficult so, ill gladly walk you through it.
@@ronoxengineering I can buy a
Thank you so much for this. Just in case someone else gets the adjustable stepdown converter - make sure you wind it down and test the output before installing it. If you don't it will run 24v out to the leds and blow.
yeah i really recommend investing in a multimeter for this repair process too, rather than relying on the XL4015 models with voltage/current out display
even a cheap $5 is precise enough
Thanks- can you please give me an updated list of parts? Between the blog and this- it is confusing. You don't show the step attaching the step-down to the LED strips?
thats because unless you add a PWM driver, the LEDs connect directly to the stepdown converter
ill post something soon though, of a more complete build when i dismantle my monitor one last time.
if you do add a mosfet, it goes between the negative lead of the LEDs, since the mosfet needs to be grounded too. so mosfet source = LED-neg, mosfet drain = GND, and mosfet gate of course connects to your PWM signal however you are generating it
This is the closest reference to a full disassembly I've seen of this unit. Great work! I've been meaning to strip mine down because of my own "unique" issue. I got mine from a buddy who used it under a window and maxed the brightness to compensate for screen glare. Well, he cooked the screen. It has a yellow-ish tinge in the center. Wacom told us it can be repaired but would cost $1100, but thats a lot of money for A) old harware, and B) to replace diffusers or whatever the issue is. Any tips/ suggestions? Again, great work.
Marcus Delaney that may be due to UV exposure discoloring the cover plastic or damaging the LCD itself.
Ronox interesting. Guess I'll dig in some day and find out. Meanwhile, line art it is! Thanks.
Thanks for posting! Mine failed, and I want to try this.
@Ronox your site is not online, it has a 500 error. My question is, did you already remove the ccfl prior, and what voltage do I time the led to, and where do I connect that voltage so it sits in the case ? Thank you
ah jeez i ran an update, looks like it did something :(
Yes, i removed the CCFL, the best replacement LED is called a COB LED strip, its on an aluminium chip, if you look hard you can find some 600mm ones for like $4 somewhere, or, for cheaper, some 300mm ones, then just cut them down shorter to fit.
for the COBs they like 14V, for the original retrofit fit from the video, between 9-10v, ideally though youll wanna use an XL4015 stepdown converter with constant current control and output display, or tune with a multimeter that can read current. Aiming for between 600-900ma
Il get right on fixing the site
How do u wire this up mate
Where I can this LEDs buy please? Do you have some link for that?
thank you for answer :)
I dont like using links like this since they eventually expire, but here www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Delivery-The-article-15-to-24-inch-universal-LCD-LED-lights-change-LCD-LED-upgrade/32735743850.html
Make sure you read my blog thoroughly about driving these LEDs, the drivers say they can take 10-30v but thats a lie, the wacom uses 24v and will fry the LED driver so you also need a XL4015 stepdown converter, or any other stepdown converter of your choice, but i recommend the XL4015 because its cheap and effective and has a $5 model with a voltage display on it so you dont need to use a multimeter
Great work! One quick question, did you have trouble keeping dust out of the screen after puting it back together? My 24 pro has a lot of dust trapped under the screen, I got it second hand, I'm thinking about opening it up, but I'm afraid it will be useless if more dust gets trapped in there. Thx.
i got a few bits of dust in there, the trick is, air compressor it all before opening then, if the screen is to be taken apart, do so in a room full of still air that has had at minimum 40 minutes to settle, ideally move into a room with carpet to do this if you can. then otherwise just clean the screen with a microfibre cloth prior to reassembly, if you can spot some dust on it and be mindful of wind currents. if you have an air purifier, run that for a while before settling the air. i dont advise using iso tho between those layers, no way to know if it might react in the long term with lens material
Seems like there is still quite some empty space in cintiq shell. Is there any way to put a computer in and make it into a 24 in wacom companion?
sure. use an intel compute stick for instance, or find a small 64 bit windows mini PC. bear in mind youll need a huge battery, and a cintiq 24HD uses a huge amount of power in its backlights. So dont expect a good portable design, but, an all in 1, thats definitely doable. plenty of room inside there
Very very helpful. Thank you so much for this!
good to hear
+Ronox where can i find wacom cintiq parts?
Nowhere, wacom doesnt sell spare parts. Otherwise fixing wacom tablets would be really simple.
A friend just gave me this model that he installed new LED backlights on. But ever since he installed them, one section of the screen doesn't register the pen. The line just skips, or doesn't even draw on that section. Any guesses as to why this is and how to fix it?
see that section on the left of the preview for this video with the yellowy orange tape and those 4 ribbon cables? thats where the microcontroller for the pen sensor is, if theres they arent properly connected there or a scratch or something broke some of the fine circuitry there, thats where youll find your problem.
I put that tape on there because the circuitboard is exposed, and it looked like a short circuit risk. since its very flexible and right above it is exposed metal from the wacoms support structure. Anyway, its quite difficult to put the ribbons back in and keep the special tear-proof tape on it (i also removed that), it might be that a few wires are unseated, pulling them out and putting back in could be all it takes.
@@ronoxengineering Awesome, I'll try that out. Thanks so much!
@@ronoxengineering You were correct! I took off the top metal panel and one of the ribbon cable's was disconnected. I'll put it back together and see what happens. Thanks again man, really appreciate it!
@@DannyPscustoms no worries. Let me know if that fixes it
i have a 22hd where everything works except the screen is black, i'm assuming its the backlight. since the 22hd comes with led backlights instead of ccfls, will replacing the inverter be enough or will i need to replace the led's as well?
use a 12v power supply to test the LEDs directly, but before that, run the monitor and test what output is being supplied to the LEDs, if they have blown, you should read 12v or so.
Im fairly certain the 22HD uses 12V LEDs but it may be 18 or 24v so, use a diode test or something before overpowering them, perhaps gradually increase the voltage, but i think someone once told me a normal 12v supply worked. either way though if the LEDs are blown the regulator should be ok and will be outputting the rated voltage or a little bit above it since to an extent since constant current drivers increase voltage until the output current is correct.
Hello my cintiq 24hd don’t start Well it start shut down and again. It is the backlight ? Could you help me best regard thanks
nice tutorial bro this should help lots of people!
Thank you for this, God bless you!
Great tutorial :)
Why didn't you just replace the CCFL tubes?
its impossible to know what the actual tube specs are, plus they would require re-potting and insulation which not even i would risk doing, assuming i had the correct tubes, given the alternative option of LEDs. They arent just plugnplay.
If i dont get it right, then i end up in the same boat, plus the tubes were originally wrecked by an unbalanced inverter, so theyll die again and definitely discharge high voltage into the back plate, and cause electrical damage to any computers connected to it over time. my desktop started randomly turning on by itself and my laptops motherboard power distribution manager was fried.
Hi, my cintiq has not worked for years. I think there is a power issue in cintiq 13.I ve seen power port pins are broken and it may have problems with backlight too.can you help know where do I get /buy the port for cintiq 13hd dtk1300 as you have explained about these backlight tubes. Thanks!
you cant. wacom refuses to sell any spare parts for self-repair. however, assuming the cintiq 13 has a 4-pin connector like the 22HD and 24HD, theres no reason you cant just get a totally different port
if it has 4 pins, its just 2 parallel sets of the same rail so its totally fine to buy whatever connector you want as long as its rated to the current
just be very careful and use a multimeter to confirm which pin(s) are ground/negative, since you dont want to plug it in backwards
If it has problems with the backlight, once you confirm the LEDs inside are fried, you should be able to directly swap them out for a COB LED strip like i built into the 24HD, but thats assuming it has enough clearance which i dont know.
one other fortunate thing is odds are only 1 led is actually damaged, you could remove the strips, find the damaged one (test each with 3V and see which one wont light up), and desolder it, then replace it with another, as long as its 5500K white and the same size, it should work fine as a replacement.
That`s interesting. My 24DH has a loose connection somewhere, I disassambled it 4 times, but I can never find it. I just push here and there and then it works again and then after a few month it starts again with a black screen after a few seconds, really annoying. But my 24hd looks completely diffent, there is a big circuit board with stuff on it that I don`t know under a metal plate right in the middle.
if its the touchscreen model that might explain why it looks so different.
@@ronoxengineering It`s the standard DTK2400/K from 2012
@@rouvie1809 post a photo, thats interesting then, mine is also the 2012 model, i was not aware of any revisions until the pro and touch models came out
@@ronoxengineering I will just give me some time, it`s no fun disassembling the thing.
@@rouvie1809 understood XD
Hey I have a 24HD that won’t power on. No lights or anything with power plugged in. Is the power button supposed to feel mushy? Mine doesn’t have a tactile feel
its normal for it to not be clicky. if no lights appear, odds are your power supply is broken, if you dont have a multimeter, just try and short the supply outout for a second, see if it makes a spark, it should be rather loud and somewhat bright, but if it does nothing or barely makes a blip your supply is most likely dead. the supply will most likely have 4 pin holes, or 4 pins, i forget if its male or female, either way, these are just two parallel sets of 24v and gnd so, you can just randomly try and connect any two together until something happens you wont damage it, unlike with say, an xbox supply which used to be a combination of 12v and 5v which might blow up if you did this
its safe to short a supply like this just dont obviously leave it shorted out.
@@ronoxengineering found the problem. Amazon sold 4-pin power supply was spec’d for the 24HD but it was only 12V. I’m returning that and ordering a 24V 4-pin supply. I hope the pin outs are correct. Do you know what the pin outs are on the factory power supply? I don’t even know where to get a factory power supply for the 24HD. Also anywhere I can get a cheap used or 3rd party stylus? I basically dumpster dived a 24HD
@@shaocaholica if its an official supply you shouldnt need to worry if the pinout is right or not, but, you can confirm this with a cheap multimeter. do a continuity test on the big screws in the middle back of the monitor, they are connected to the case which is negative, or stick the probe through the grills into the heatsink which should also be case-negative. keep poking and eventually youll find it. the USB and power supply grounds should also be shared so, continuity testing the metal guard on a USB cable thats plugged in should also work i think.
Also, there are no 3rd party pens, they really are rathjer sophisticated pieces of hardware that cost as much as they do for a reason. if your concern is that you dont want to spend much on the off chance your monitor has no pen function hence, was thrown out, a big sign of that is that the on screen settings dont work or you are unable to make the buttons actually do anything, so test all the functions thoroughly. if you find no pen functionality on one side, often this can be fixed by unplugging the ribbon cables on the, either left or right side, cleaning with rubbing alcohol, and then plugging back in.
@@ronoxengineering I couldn’t find a first party power supply. I ended up getting a generic 24v 4pin but it didn’t work. Burning smells coming from the unit (no smoke) and the power supply got hot. I think this unit is trashed. I don’t have the time to fix it it was a Hail Mary.
@@shaocaholica thats odd, the power limiter on the supply means it should be very difficult for the supply to quickly overheat.
you should open it up though, it might be a simple fix. at very least it would let you confirm where the break is, since everything inside them is modular if the main power-distributor is fried you could probably resell it for a few hundred
thank you thank you!
mines started makin a noise, i cant take it apart though, the fans need cleaning i think.makes it hard to actually draw without headphones on
if you can find fans that physically fit, theres no reason the fans cant be replaced
hi, i have a wacom cintiq 24 Hd, it has a problem, it turns on but in a few minutes it turns off the tables still works without image ... does anyone know what could happen to it?
Cheers
probably the backlight failed, press a flashlight up against a high contrast zone. open up an imagine with lots of black and white before the screen dies and then see if you can see the display lighting up with a torch. its difficult to do though and probably will require a very bright light. ANyway if you can see the picture like that, then you will have definite proof the backlight died. Its not replaceable (yourself) so youll have to retrofit the monitor with LEDs. but if you are within warranty or only a couple years over warranty, make sure you contact wacom and tell them specifically that the backlight has died and request a repair/replacement of that, otherwise they may just swap out your power brick and charge you $500 for that.
If you get lucky, they will repair it for free, though you will still have to pay postage to send to them. you can make it cheaper though by removing the tablets base, you dont have to send the whole thing in 1 piece after all :P
In a hot room the backlight usually wont die like that so, its possible when you send it to them, it will work fine, this is something that happens often, MANY people on reddit have all said the same things, had this problem, sent it away, got sent back with no repair other than swapping the power supply.
@@ronox3474
215/5000
I very much appreciate your answer ...
I live in Chile, we do not have technical service and my wacom is very old, I will try to find a solution that I can do here in my country, do you know where to get the parts?
@@Raulcuadra spare parts unfortunatelly cannot be bought, and a CCFL set can be re-made but its fairly complicated plus you have no way of knowing the CCFL tube composition, meaning you could spend hours building replacements and then they burn out after a day or 2. they dont include any details and the tech support doesnt have any information either to help you DIY a backlight.
I fixed my 24hd by your video.
It's super great tutorial.
But, I have a question.
when I turned my XL4015 to 360mA, It was so dark.
so, I'm turning Xl4015 now to 600mA, it looks good.
Then, it is critical to LED life obiously, so, I want to know your 600mA LED is still good in 2019 march. :)
ps. your tutorial is very good!
i dont quite remember what current i am pushing right now but i think its 1A, however right now i have switched to COB LEDs, not those terrible LED retrofit kits i started with, there should be entries about this in my blog. Ill be finishing the project soon, im about to finally come into enough free time to do this stuff again.
@@ronoxengineering I'm greatful to recieve your reply.
then, I'll turn my XL4015 to 1A, and wait your post. :)
@@김기범-t2b please dont.
Read my blog first, the first LED strips i used could handle maybe 700ma maximum in the long term, and that was at around 9.8V. Im currently using different type, COB (chips on board) LED, its made of aluminium and works at 14V and over 1A. Its also got way better thermal conduction to deal with heat.
Normal PCB LED strips can handle maybe 700ma each at most, youll need COB strips to go higher.
@@ronoxengineering Oh, I understood.
Hmm.. so, if we want more brightness, then use COB LED, right?
But, aliexpress sails only 500mm x 6mm or 600mm x 6mm.
Then, May I buy 500mm x6mm COB LED is good choice??
(I think, 6mm can insert into LED place instead 540mm x 4mm LED strip.)
Thank you for your reply. :)
@@김기범-t2b yes 500mm is fine. you can always trim it down though as long as you are careful not to leave a shortcircuit or peel off the yellow lens. that soft yellow lens is actually made with a special phosphor, it turns blue into white light.
Also make sure to get something around 5000K-6000K closer to pure white is better
This is not applicable for "Wacom Cintiq 22hd" , it has got a very different setup and Wacom Cintiq 22hd comes with a single led strip fixed with some hard adhesives at the bottom and complexly placed between the polarising layer of Plastic sheets and with a very thin Display pannel - which is very hard to assemble because of its delicate nature.
Ronox's video might work for 24 hd models but NOT FOR WACOM CINTIQ 22 HD .I have tried it ...and failed😞😟😟😖
it is just meant as a helpful refference for other models since the layout and design is still similar. but this guide applies better to the 27HD than the 22HD given the 22HD already is LED
with the 22HD you are meant to test the LED backlight with another power supply since its almost always the driver than has died, not the LEDs
How did you fail?
Hey This operation work on 22 HD?
sort of, to my knowledge the 22HD is already using LED backlighting. If it is, then you need to test the LED strips already inside by supplying with around 9v (like a 9-9.9v rated wall power supply , 6aa batteries, etc), if no response, try 12v but be very careful about it, assume your overpowering the strips if they respond at all, theres no reason wacom LEDs should follow the typical standards for LEDs (usually 9v because they are in sets of 3 series).
if the backlight is ccfl or LED, this operation will work either way, but only if the problem is the backlights or backlight driver, i.e, if the screen still displays but is black/invisible without shining a light into it or something, then replacing the backlight will fix the problem. Eventually ill get around to making a video about diagnosing the problem next time i modify my 24HD, ill shut off the backlight while playing a video then show how to determine if your screen is just gone dark or actually broken. the trick is that unless you shine on something with strong contrasting colors like black+white, you probably wont even be able to see anything at all using a flashlight
guess its up to this now >
I have a cintiq 22HD has suddenly turned into a black screen, but all functions worked, excepts the image. The tablet have always the blue light indicator when it's connected, even if DVI and USB port don't, also, I can't turned off with the button in the back....had you the same problem? like this: oi63.tinypic.com/fjomjm.jpg
Ah! ... and I don't have support here in Chile, we need to send the tablet to Brazil or Mexico :/
Hi, I have exactly the same issue on my 22HD. Did you repair it? I've read the problem could be the power supply, not the backlight. I Think you've found a solution now (since your problem has appeared 5 months ago) so it would be nice if you could share what was the problem on your cintiq :)
Hey, I dunno if you pay attention to this vid anymore, but I've got an old 24hd I've had in the basement for a while after a move, and well, bugs have gotten into it. They're between the outer glass panel and the rest of the panel. I got it all apart except for the tape part to pry things (before I found this vid), and I'm wondering if I'll get access to that with that pry step. The whole thing works, it's just somehow moths have lived and spun their cocoons in-between the display and the outer glass. I would rather not break things, I'd just like it to work again. Lord knows I doubt I'd ever be able to afford something like this anymore.
Or do you think I need to heat up the probable glue between the screen and the glass? (Everything looks all skook'em to me, not sure how they got in to live there, but they did. I'm just afraid to pry things.
no i dont believe so.
I have had dust and such get in there and, all i can say is its removable with enough effort, but i dont think you can seperate it without ungluing the surface panel. doing that btw does not require dismantling the monitor in any way, its just glued on, really well, onto the outside frame.
You would almost certainly break the plastic though in the process. Next time i dismantle the monitor ill see how far the LCD can be pulled apart, perhaps its possible you can remove it. I still havent built the final controller circuit yet so i still have one more dismantlement to do.
After much consideration, I thought I would follow your video guide. However, there is one glaring error!
The black 'sealing' tape that is around the entire module holds the panel in place!!!!!!! It needs to be cut/removed before you can separate the parts.
While much of your blog is helpful, not making this particular issue absolutely clear leads to hours of frustration and annoyance!
im pretty sure in the blog somewhere i made explicit mention of this, and that you should just cut it. if peeled back it wont re-stick, and it serves no function a reapplication using ductape wouldnt do. But i will see about adding an annotation to the video mentioning to cut the tape.
@@ronoxengineering Hidden in your blog, you mentioned the tape briefly, but stated that it was 'trivial'. It's not trivial, it holds the whole screen assembly together!!! Your video demonstration suggests that the difficult part are the clips, which isn't the case at all.
I realise there will likely be very few who follow this now, but you need to state very, very clearly, that careful cutting of the black tape is an absolute primary requirement to allow the disassembly.
@@kravdraa7 its been a while since i did it, so im maybe remembering it wrong but, what do you mean by "carefully"? Other than near the data cables which is pretty obvious, it should be a simple thing, i recall spending a whole 5 minutes cutting that tape after i realized how unfeasible it would be to keep it in tact, as well as realizing it doesnt serve a functional purpose beyond being a dust cover (since theres like 15 screws holding the monitor together)
@@ronoxengineering You do have a very strange idea of what is necessary and how to go about things!
Yes, the tape mainly serves to keep out dust and bugs, but that is a significant consideration for most people. Even if they can live with some debris, care needs to be taken around the data connection at the bottom and the folded ribbon wires that feed the matrix circuitry, which pass very close to the edge. More significantly, you need to take care to ensure that all the tape is cut, because just small pieces will hold the assembly together and you'll be fighting to pull it apart.
In addition, however, your description of how to undo the clips is wrong. The metal framework that you use as a lever point is not attached to anything other than the front glass by double-sided foam tape. They can be removed to allow better access to the clips, so all the struggling in your video is not necessary.
@@kravdraa7 i dont recall looking into that, i still have to do 1 more dissasembly of this thing once i finish building the dynamic LED driver that can read the sleep and brightness signal, ill take a look at what can be done about the tension-clips