Beautiful Minimalist-Modern 3D Printed Pendant Light Lampshade *DIY* ~ Protopasta Iron Metal PLA

Thanks to PCBWay for sponsoring this video. Check out www.pcbway.com/ for custom printed circuit boards, electronics, and rapid prototyping services (Use my referral link to get $5 of New User Free Credit) www.pcbway.com/setinvite.aspx... !
PARTS LIST:
Low-Poly Vase 3D model: www.thingiverse.com/thing:149...
Hemp-covered wires: amzn.to/3rX8cs2
LED lightbulbs: amzn.to/45EUxDv
Lightbulb sockets: amzn.to/3tSgIc7
Protopasta filament: proto-pasta.com/collections/m...
Carbon X1 3D printer (doesn't have to be this one): bambulab.com/en/x1
You may want some wire strippers: amzn.to/3Mdzcu8
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*DISCLAIMER: Remember to always use caution and your best judgement when building and flying RC aircraft, and when working with 3D printers, electronics, or electrical devices. Be mindful of the laws, regulations, and best practices for your particular location. Be a good neighbor, and HAVE FUN!*
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About RCwithAdam: Adam's goal is to HELP YOU build your skills and eliminate frustration and confusion through creative, educational, and encouraging videos featuring Radio Control airplanes, FPV drones, electronics, and 3D printing!
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[@VSongu]

Thanks for sharing this video. Could you tell which setting you used to print here?

[@andreamitchell4758]

looks great and no i can't see any layer lines at all in the video
I would love to print this in the iron filiamment but I don't think my printer has a hardened steel nozzle
I have one but I an not sure i want to mess with it and change ou the nozzle just yet.
Also when you enlarged it did you change the ratio because in the STL on thingieverse it looks short and squat and yours looks much more tall and slender which I like much better.

[@oh_yeah_]

bro really hot glued his way to connect the wires😂
my dad would kill me if i hot glue something like that instead of using a wire stud hole soldiered to the wire screwed in there

[@3dtechnologies153]

making 3d printed lampshades is so much fun and challenging

[@RCwithAdam1]

Yes it is! It's so simple, but can be very elegant. Have you made many?

[@andreamitchell4758]

$140 for a 2kg spool wow that is some expensive stuff!
that is about what I paid for the Ender 3 v3 sE I just got after sale and coupons
how much filament did you use to print those 3?

[@andreamitchell4758]

The LED polarity does matter for DC but for AC light sockets
the idea is that you connec the "hot" or black wire to the pin at the bottom of the socket and the neutral white wire to the screw base part
This is so that if you touch the screw base part you won't get a shock.
It looks like you connected the white wire to the gold terminal which is the one that goes to the pin at the bottom of the socket, it should be the other way around unless you just change it on the other end.
Also would be nice if someone could do a remix of the STL to make a hole that is the diameter of a standard threaded lamp rod this way you could have used that
little collar piece on the outside of the shade and tucked the wires and rope inside for a nice clean look also maybe print a thicker base layer.

[@patrickd9551]

Led polarity does matter to such a degree that it matters with DC. However, this is AC, which needs to be converted to DC first (that is what the internal circuitry is for). For AC is doesn't matter at all. You can easily turn your plug 180 degrees in your socket (and thus switching hot and neutral) and all your appliances (including LED lights) just keep working.
It is however good practice to connect the hot wire to the central pin at the bottom, but that's due to safety, not polarity. You want the most easily connected part (the outer shell) to be connected to the least offensive lead (the one that doesn't shock you). Or put in other words: you want the killing part as far away from prying fingers as possible.
But once that light socket is connected to a plug, all bets are off. (and you should probably teach your kids not to touch those metal parts)