230 Watt Osram Projector Ballast Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2021
- We troubleshoot and repair a ballast that was connected to a power supply that had high voltage damage. This led to the ballast having a shorted switching Mosfet for the DC power to the rest of the ballast. The P18N50 www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral... was shorted across every pin. I have a suitable part that was salvaged from another power supply.
I hope this comes in helpful if you run into ballast problems. Thanks for watching!
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Thank you so much! I have the same MOFET burn out problem on the ballast board. It is the JVC D-ILA projector.
Man that soldering iron looks pretty hefty! As it happens I do have an osram ballast right now on my desk but it's a bit different. Imagine riveting the mosfet to the heatsink. It's probably quicker in production line where speed most matters. Good work by Frank once again.
Good work friend! ✅🇧🇷
I usually remove heatsink too and replace it with more powerful one. Because, if you're running projector in ECO mode, when fan speed is low, This part gets almost no cooling...
ok tanks
your video is simple and very straight forward
i Have an optoma power supply that only blink blue light but no fan turning , no display no any other activities on the projector, how do i troubleshoot it
Hi! What model is it? some will do that with a defective mainboard but also with a bad door switch.
thank you
You're welcome!
Hey! thank you for taking the time to film when you troubleshoot! Have the same ballast in my benq w1300 that does not want to turn on the lamp. Have tested with two different new lamps without results. Has changed the four mosfet and the two on the heat sink. Still does not want to work. The color wheel spins. Reach suggestions on what to check?
Do you have power to the ballast? You need 380VDC on the power input to the ballast. Also you want to check the control signals from the mainboard. I would start with the main power supply and verify you have 380VDC. If you have 300-320VDC, that means the power factor correction circuit is not working. It must be that 380Vdc to work properly. I suspect that is your problem.
@@FixitFrank I have 380Vdc to the ballast, so I will check signals from mainboard. The problems started with it sometimes not wanting to start without unplugging the power cord. If a have signals from mainbord I would like to buy a ballast VIP240W, do you have one you can sell to Sweden or do you know a place you can order one from? thanks for the reply /wärn
@@FixitFrank Hi frank, quick question here. I have a ballast from a NEC projector that overheats it's four mosfets immideatly after I try to turn it on. The lamp is definitely trying to light up, blinking dimmly. i have changed the burned out mosfets, but they are overheating as well. Also I measured 324V on the input. Is it the PSU fault or the ballast failure? thanks!
Do you typically have to replace the main power board if this happens or can it be repaired?
It seems to be about 50/50. Sometimes the mains supply is damaged but also it can be okay. When the mains supply is damaged, I usually have to repair the Power factor correction circuit(mosfet and driver IC usually) and the PFC control mosfet if it uses one. Its all determined by if the PFC power is there (380VDC). If not, then its a main supply issue.
@@FixitFrank Thank you! I’m learning a lot from your videos. I have a JVC RS57U that has no indication of power. I’ve spent hours researching how to go about diagnosing the problem but I might have to send it to you if you are available.
hello, I could potentially look at it. to get in touch, look at the link to the lamp in the description and email the support email on that website. That will go to me.
can you tell me the part number of the low voltage power ic you shown
hi! can someone tell me the values of those 3x3 resistors in parallel? i have all of them blown up on my board. thanks
Can I attach the wires to my door handel for a burglar alarm
Nice to see this fix! I suspect various models of several brands manufactured by the same OEM use this same ballast type? Do they all use OSRAM lamps/bulbs?
Oddly this is from a BenQ that uses a Philips lamp. The difference between Osram and Philips is minimal. They use the same short arc technology. The one thing I will say is that the Philips lamps tend to be better than osram across the board. In my experience, It goes, Ushio(#1), Philips(close #2), Matsushita, Phoenix and then Osram. I think Osram is the lowest quality of the "original" lamp makers. Someday I will do a video on when Osram ruined their brand by coming out with Neolux bulbs. They never recovered in my opinion.
There are quite a few models that use this. I have seen them in smartboard UX60s as well. I'm sure they are used elsewhere.
@@FixitFrank Oh man thanks for the info! Please, by all means, do a video about OSRAM, I thought they were Number 1, but then I saw BARCO using Ushio lamps in their machines and BARCO is not a firm that plays around with their stuff. If OSRAM is the bottom of the barrel, I can only imagine how low quality are these knock off Chinese lamps that sell for 30 bucks! Thanks again Frank!
@@Kujokouklos
Sure thing. I will do that sometime. When I say Osram is the lowest, that is in comparison to the others. They are still WAYYYY better than the knock off junk. It's like comparing luxury cars. There are high such as Rolls Royce/Mercedes/Bentley and then you have low end like Cadillac/Lincoln/Lexus. A Lexus is still way nicer than a salvaged Chevy Cobalt.
Some of those knock off lamps use unregulated amounts of krypton85 to achieve the brightness they want. The gas mix inside the burner is proprietary. That is a big part of the technology I learned. KR85 is totally fine to use when done by a proper company like Phoenix for instance, but a bunch of guys in a garage on the outskirts of Guangzhou are not going to be following proper safety and quality standards.
@@FixitFrank That is awesome man! Cannot wait for the video. Your knowledge is truly legendary! Me salutes in awe!
Hi FixiyFrank.
My hd67 exploded a few months ago. Replaced a chip and worked for a while. The it stoped. I replaced the fan with a new but thinner one. It will work for 20 or so minutes and then it pops up a message about high temperature. Do you know where is the temperature sensor located? Any advise?
Very cool videos. Thanks
Thanks for the kind words! I suspect your issue is the new fan you put in. It isn't moving enough air and that is causing it to overheat. If you get the original fan your issue should be resolved. The temp sensor is working as it should. That is why you have the warning. Thinner fans do not have enough blade surface area to replace a thicker fan. It isn't moving enough air so the heat increases. Fortunately your fix is inexpensive (more so than the chip for sure).
@@FixitFrank Thanks zo
. I was suspecfing the fan. Chip cost me 2 GBP for 2 items.
Hi Frank! I've watched quite a few of your videos now to help me diagnose and fix various projectors, so thanks for that! But currently I'm dealing with an issue that has me truly stumped. Got a Dell 7609WU where the lamp TRIES to fire, but it never actually fully ignites, and then it powercycles a few time. This is a brand new lamp, though. So I thought it was the ballast. Based on a couple of your other videos, I checked the input to the ballast, which is a stable 384V. One thing I noticed is that when the lamp tries to fire, the gas discharge tube on the ballast also fires. Do you maybe have any ideas? I checked the diode and power transistor, but they seem fine, considering it does try to fire. Thanks in advance!
Hello! I kind of think that sounds like a bad lamp. that lamp might be cracked or have air inside the arc tube. Have you tried a new lamp yet? Cheap lamps with bad cement can be resistive and cause problems like that. It should have a Philips UHP bare bulb.
@FixitFrank Thanks! I'm getting a refund from the seller and gonna try a different bulb. I did try and measure the resistance (based on one of your other videos) and it did indeed have infinite resistance so I thought it was a good bulb. Unfortunately when I received it, it no longer had the bulb or the bulb aseembly in it, so I bought both together as a replacement
Are you familiar with any introductory videos/courses/books you might recommend for someone just getting started with taking apart and repairing electronics? I attempted to diagnose an issue with a projector and honestly I feel like my foundational knowledge about circuits and boards and how to properly check for elementary things like blown fuses is very weak. I looked on TH-cam for a resource that breaks down some of those basics but haven't had any luck. Appreciate your content!
That is a tough question. The biggest hurdle is knowing when a mountain is too high to climb. For your first repair, an electronics issue with a projector is like climbing Mount Everest after an evening at an indoor climbing club.
I would suggest getting familiar with DC electronics first. Get familiar with Ohms law, how to read schematics, how to properly use a multimeter. The biggest problems with starting out that I see are people who jump past the basics and just go for the "what do I replace?" questions. I would also suggest building a few things. Get some power supply kits and build them. Learn how solder behaves, how AC becomes DC and how current is managed. Really when you get down to it, there are only a few components in electronics. Knowing how they affect voltage and current can tell you a lot when troubleshooting.
For repairs, I would start with something like an amplifier or power supply(very similar when you get down to it). Projectors are such a conglomeration of sub systems that without knowledge of those sub systems, troubleshooting them together can be really daunting and frustrating.
Folks with channels like @Bigclivedotcom, @northridgefix, @tronixfix are great resources as well.
I'd set your expectations low at first. I've been doing this since the mid 90s. Not projectors but repair in general. Learning how to read schematics and service manuals is key. Get the basics in, learn about resistors, capacitors, diodes, etc. Then learn how they work in schematics. Then learn how to measure them with a meter. once you have that down, the rest will start to fall into place. Also expect to break more than you fix at first. Then one day the ratio will shift the other way. Patience, and passion are the 2 keys for me. Once one of those wains for me, I will hang up my iron.
I wish I had more specific direction for you, but hopefully this helps.
@@FixitFrank Thanks so much for this response, it's very much appreciated! I'll definitely try to keep all of that in mind and refer to those resources you mentioned!
Hi Frank, I have a optoma hd86 when I turn on just flashing blue light not turning the lamp on is my lamp faulty need your expert advice,thank's
It definitely could be the problem. I always suggest changing a lamp before opening the projector. I wouldn't worry about deeper issues unless a new lamp does not solve the issue.
I have a Benq w2000. It starts to sound loud now. I think the fan is the problem. Can i taket out the fans and start the projector to see if the sound comes from the fans. Im worried If i remove the fans the lamp would explode
If you want to share a video of the sound, I can see if recognize it. The color wheel is also suspect when you hear weird rotating noises.
You can probably hear what is making the noise without unplugging fans, but you are safe to unplug the fan for a second or two. The projector will go into thermal protection and turn off anyway if the fans are unplugged too long.
Hi,if you can't find a exact MOSFET,what MOSFET would be equivalent that can be used
That is sort of a complicated answer. however, the basic idea is to use a slightly higher rated spec mosfet if you cant find the right one. If the 18N50 is an 18amp, 500V N channel, then you could use a 19N50, (19amp, 500V N Channel) or a 20N60(20 amp 600V N Channel). There are some other specs to consider if you have to do a substitute that is further from the original but in general you can get away with using a slightly more power ful mosfet without any issue. The only other issue is that you need to replace all 4 with the new part #, not just one. If one is changed in value, they all should be changed.
Hello!
The JVC DLA-HD350 projector. The image is there, but the brightness is very low. All adjustments work fine (contrast, chroma, brightness change, aperture, lamp mode, zoom, focus, etc.). When the image size is reduced to a minimum, the brightness naturally increases to a completely normal level. There are no color distortions. The brightness is uniform over the entire area. Three lamps were tried. Two new ones, one used. Anyway, the brightness is low. Moreover, the used lamp on another projector (sanyo plv z5) shines much brighter (according to the application in the phone 4 times). What could be the reason for the low brightness?
Weird! I would definitely expect it to be bright after 3 different lamps. I don't have a smoking gun solution for you but I would check the optics for dust or debris that might be preventing effective light transfer. It "could" be a ballast issue but that would be unusual. they tend to work or not work. They rarely will partially work. If you verified all the optics are clean, then I'd try another ballast.
@@FixitFrank Thank You, Friend!
I checked the optics. She was very dirty. I cleaned 4 optical glasses. The brightness has increased a lot. According to the measurements of the smartphone on one of the lamps by 2.5 times, on the other lamp by 3.5 times. You can already watch a movie! But there is one problem left. When turned on, the green light of the "STANDBY/ON" indication lights up, the lens shutter opens, the lamp does not shine. After 1 minute, the red light of the "STANDBY/ON" indication shines, the orange light of the 1-0.25 second "LAMP" indication flashes, the red light of the "WARNING" indication shines. I'm turning off the electrical power. I turn on the electric power. The projector turns on and the lamp is shining. How can I fix it?
Thank You, Friend!
Пожалуйста! Если она загорелась до чистки, проверьте отсутствие пропущенных соединений проводов. Я знаю, что у JVC много разных межсоединений. Мигают ли какие-либо светодиоды по определенной схеме после предупреждения о неисправности лампы?
I have a Dell 1610HD and the led code on top panel indicates Ballast fail (ballast EUC 225d W/C31). So I followed your diagnosting steps and there's high chance the first 3 legged Mosfet is faulty. It's a 15N60C3 with 650V 0.28Ω 15A so I went shopping all throughout my city and the closest I could get was a P20NM50FP 500V 0.25Ω 20A. Do you know if there could be any problems if I install it? What could go wrong?
That should be fine. You can go a little larger. I would probably try it myself if that is the part I had. All it does is enable the 380v into the ballast. Basically you are putting a larger capacity switch in place. Being 0.03ohms less wont draw much more current. If it's just that part, then I think you will be fine. I would check the other 4 on the output side unless you have already.
@@FixitFrank I read wrong and it's not 0.25ohms, it's 0.20ohms so maybe a 71% of the original resistance could have a different behavior. I'll try to get the original Infineon Mosfet another week, and if I can't get it, it'll be my last resource before buying the whole ballast.
@@yorchli3152 That is actually a little better. That means it's less resistive. Ideally you want 0 ohm when the Fet is on. That would be an ideal switch. E=IR, 380=I0.2 I-1900a versus 1520a for a fet rated at 0.25 ohm. If this was one of the H bridge Fets, I would not use it. But for main power control to the ballast, I think it would be safe to use as a substitute.
At the least I'd use it to verify the function of the ballast. I don't see any reason it should affect the ballast in a negative way. It is only switching the 380vdc from the PFC output. If it was a PWM or a signal situation, I would be concerned about changing something as well. But I think here it's OK.
I've used larger rated Fets plenty of times with success. The other thing to consider is that these are usually rated 40-60% higher than they need to be. It's rare for a Fet to be driven at its full power. Using a larger Fet for lower control power helps with lowering heat. Your ballast may even run "slightly" cooler with the P20NM50FP. You have nothing to lose. After paying for the parts and shipping, you will be at least $15 from mouser and they may have a minimum order?(I can't recall)
I'd try the P20NM50FP, if it works, put it back together and enjoy the projector. If it doesn't work, source a used ballast. I recall there being a low value resistor that tends to act like a fuse. I am not sure your model has one but keep that in mind.
@@FixitFrank then I'll give it a shot tonight, I feel more confident that I won't damage other components thanks to your comments and fruitful knowledge.
Regarding that resistor, how can I check the resistor? Visually everything looks fine, nothing is burned or discolored by overheat, the PCB looks in its entirity green and even. I think I need to find a video where I can learn how to check every type of surface mount component. Thanks to your videos I can check Mosfets but the rest I don't know
You can measure it with the ohms or continuity setting. It should read basically like a dead short. the value was 0.1 ohm or 0.5. It was very low. As long as its not open, then it is fine. Even if you dont check it, there is no danger. Worse case the ballast will not start if the resistor is open.
Hi, Frank, thank You very much for this interesting video. I've old SIM2 HT380 projector with 200W Osram lamp (P-VIP Osram 200W/1.0P22). At now projector has stopped working. The check showed that the lamp power supply (ballast) is damagwd. The main power supply and lamp are OK. I'm repairing projectors myself, but this is the first time I encountered a ballast malfunction. Three MOS-FET transistors (T1,T4 and T5) burned out in my ballast,and I couldn't find anymore anything else faulty. Simlpe changing damaged transistors wasn't help. New transistirs was damaged too. Where should I look for the fault and what should I check? I would be grateful for any help provided. Thanks. Best Regards, Kostyantyn
That is a good projector! Do you know what caused the failure originally? The MOS-FET's rarely fail on their own. You are on the right path for sure. I would look at the surface mount diodes that are large. There is one that will measure short in circuit. I think its a flyback diode( I am not sure). It is mounted in parallel with a low ohm resistor array(current feedback?). I would see if it measures shorted outside of the circuit. I actually have a 200W PVIP ballast in storage at work. I am on vacation until June 1 but when I get back I can look at it to see how components measure. Another place to check is the output inductor. I have seen those arc over. The plastic will be damaged slightly as an indicator but it will not measure shorted under most cases. I have a video on an HD141 or HD26( I will find it) where this occurred.
If you want to email me some pictures of the ballast, I will see if there is anything else that I think it worth investigating. Plus I can see if I have one so I can provide some measurements you can compare against. frank@fixfrank.com
@@FixitFrank Frank, thanks for the quick response. I checked both flyback diode and other SMD diodes and semiconductors, I didn't find anything suspicious. I can't find a short circuit anywhere. I also didn't notice any external damage to the elements. I'll take some pictures of my ballast and email it to you. Thanks for help and enjoy your holiday!
Hi frank, is this ballast similar to the jvc x550 ballast?
I don't think so. Only because I suspect JVC used Ushio ballasts. But I am not sure... Do you have the ballast from the X500 in hand?
@@FixitFrank not yet, i plan to open it and examine it once i get a chance to. I've been reading old thread on other jvc model and it seem that it may be the ballast.
My jvc turn on standby mode is green and as soon as it show ila on the screen it would immediately go to solid red light on warning, orange blinking light, and standby light turn blinking red at first and then red solid light after that.
I swapped out two new bulb but it is not working. It is still the same error code.
@@l1n147 You might want to see if you can hook it up via the serial port and check to see what errors it has. It definitely could be a ballast though.
@@FixitFrank how would i do that now when the unit is in error? I did bought a serial to usb 232 just to do that but after hooking it up the projector it does not recognize.
🌷🌷🌷🌷
Hi Frank, I have an Epson TW6700 which worked fine, but last time I watched a movie it suddenly shut off totally. When I wanted to turn it on again.. the system started up, fans are runnen... but the lamp won't turn on. I smelled something like a burned electronic component. After 40 seconds the fans are running at full speed, the power led goes off.. the small blue status led and lamp led are blinking. From the manual it means: Internal Error.
I opened the projector and try to trace the smell where it came from... that smell came from the area where the lamp and ballast are placed. The lamp is ok, so it must be the ballast right? I already tested it with a new lamp without any results. I measured the in and output voltage of the ballast. At the input I measured over the red and black wire 388 Volt, and the output was just 6,5 Volt. Is the input voltage right? Can you give me some tips? Thanks! Kind regards Jerry
You're lucky you didnt blow up your meter measuring the output of the ballast. During ignition it can put out anywhere from 3-10KV which will smoke any meter. 388 on the input it good. You want that. I'd check the mosfets on the ballast. I would not say the ballast is bad just yet. If you find any shorted or weird value mosfets then I would replace the ballast.
@@FixitFrank Thanks Frank. Yes I realise that afterwards... but in this case I was lucky that the output was only 6,5V.
What if I start with replacing the mosfets first with a type that can handle a higher value instead of replacing the whole ballast?
sorry for the late reply. for some reason I didnt see your comment until today. I'd make sure the mosfets are actually bad. Epsons can present issues that end up being something else altogether. You have the PFC power(388) so its possible the ballast mosfets are bad. If you do replace them, replace them in pairs. You can use larger spec'd replacements but they wont really do much to protect or prevent failures.
@@FixitFrankThanks, do you also know what is the reason that mosfets failed? And why do I measure 388 Volts on the input of the ballast? I also called a repair centre and they told me that most of the time it's the controller on the motherboard can be also damaged. and they told it would costs 300,- EUR to replace the motherboard. But Im not sure if that's true.
Please share the schematic of the ballast .thanks
I don't have one honestly. However you can find them in some service manuals. check Elektrotanya.com I use them for a lot of manuals. Do you have a damaged ballast?
Dear Sir, Without mother board control this lamp board using......?
380v dc Power supply to power input. Opto couplers can be shorted on the transistor side to enable the ballast, or feed 5V to common and pull the Lamp_On pin to ground and the ballast should start.
@@FixitFrank 🌷🌷🌷🌷
RMK 1012 A ECOBALAN
GREETINGS, CAN YOU REMOVE ME FROM DOUBTS I HAVE A PROJECTOR, EPSON POWERLITE PRESENTER H335A 2500 LUMENS THE POWER BUTTON INDICATES ORANGE LIGHT, THEN TURNING IT DOWN INDICATES GREEN LIGHT, BUT FLASHES 30 SECONDS IT GOES TO ORANGE LIGHT, IT DOES NOT TURN ON THE FANS OR THE BULB,,, ,, COULD THE LAMP HAVE BURNED OUT?
It could be. But it might be an iris issue too. If the lamp is old, I would try another but be sure you can return it and be sure you don't buy it on Amazon.