Filtration, Filtration, Filtration - The Aquarium Nitrogen cycle and bacteria in an aquarium filter
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- A very detailed video on the stages of filtration, Nitrogen cycle and beneficial bacteria.
BIOHOME FILTER MEDIA, FILTER UPGRADE KITS AND FOAMS HERE: www.filterpro.c...
Decent external filters: geni.us/2LnO
2.3 litre booster filter for externals: geni.us/2bj1
1.2 litre booster filter for externals: geni.us/1pBh
Quiet air pump: geni.us/A6Cfz7S
Related links:
US Biohome supplier: greatwaveeng.com
Biohome Q&A: • BIOHOME FILTER MEDIA -...
How to set up a canister filter: • External canister filt...
Invisible aquarium filter: • 'Invisible' Aquarium f...
The nitrogen cycle in an aquarium or pond is all about the bacteria and how it processes ammonia to nitrite then to nitrate. Most filters stop there and the nitrate is not processed as that relies heavily on anaerobic bacteria which almost all available filter media cannot support. Biohome is different as it allows for good anaerobic bacteria colonisation as well as the more common aerobic bacteria. Therefore it completes the Nitrogen cycle.
Biohome filter media has a massive surface area for aerobic bacteria colonisation and also has a great capacity to provide an environment for anaerobic bacteria on the interior of the media.
Hugely porous and extremely efficient, the Biohome media converts ammonia and nitrite (as normal media would) but also reduces nitrate due to the anaerobic bacteria which live in it's core.
This reduces the need for large water changes so creates a more stable environment in your aquarium (freshwater and marine) and pond.
It is inert and will not release any chemicals / minerals into the water but it is advisable to rinse before use as dust may be generated during transit.
Types of Biohome media are as follows:
1 - Biohome Standard
A compact media suitable for overhead filters, trickle filters, sumps, external and internal filters.
2 - Biohome Plus
As above but with additives to ensure much faster colonisation by bacteria.
3 - Biomotion
A rounded media with neutral buoyancy. Suitable for moving bed filters, overhead filters, trickle filters, sumps, external filters and internal filters. Has montmonrolite clay coating to condition water.
4 - Biohome Ultra (large)
A larger version of Biohome standard with rougher feel. Extremely porous. Suitable for trickle towers, sumps, larger external filters, overhead filters and multi chamber koi filters.
5 - Biohome mini Ultra
A smaller version of Ultra, perfect for external filters, sumps, overhead filters, trickle filters and internal filters. Has the ultra porous structure in a more convenient size.
6 - Biohome Ultimate*
This is Biohome mini Ultra with added trace elements (as in biohome Plus) which are essential for bacteria to rapidly colonise a filter. Cuts down the already quick maturing time of Biohome media and has the ultra porous structure and convenient size of Mini Ultra.
Trace elements in 'plus' and 'ultimate': Silica, Titania, Alumina, Ferric Oxide, Lime, Magnesia, Potash, Soda, Phosphorus Pentoxide, Chromium Sesquioxide, Manganic Oxide, Zirconia, Hafnia, Zinc Oxide, Barium Oxide, Strontia, Stannic Oxide, Sulphur Trioxide. (from XRF analysis)
Is this the best filter media ever? Very likely.
*In the UK the Biohome Ultimate is my exclusive product and has been made to exact specifications making it the 'Ultimate' filter media and ending my search for the best filter media.
Feel free to share this video anywhere you think people may benefit from it - especially on forums as I see so many poor videos on the Nitrogen cycle where they just stop at the Nitrogen production point.
*PLEASE NOTE I HAVE CLOSED TYNE VALLEY AQUATICS AND NOW SELL ONLINE FROM HOME. COLLECTING MEDIA IS NO PROBLEM SO GIVE ME A RING OR EMAIL ANY TIME*
My number 07772848730 (Richard)
My email address sales@filterpro.co.uk
Check out the hundreds of other videos on my channel.
A very detailed video on the stages of filtration, Nitrogen cycle and beneficial bacteria.
BIOHOME FILTER MEDIA, FILTER UPGRADE KITS AND FOAMS HERE: www.filterpro.co.uk
Decent external filters: geni.us/2LnO
2.3 litre booster filter for externals: geni.us/2bj1
1.2 litre booster filter for externals: geni.us/1pBh
Quiet air pump: geni.us/A6Cfz7S
Related links:
US Biohome supplier: greatwaveeng.com
Biohome Q&A: th-cam.com/video/QGI-ybQoJmg/w-d-xo.html
How to set up a canister filter: th-cam.com/video/lsAmSD3wVbg/w-d-xo.html
Invisible aquarium filter: th-cam.com/video/OIrQ_RWGRKI/w-d-xo.html
The nitrogen cycle in an aquarium or pond is all about the bacteria and how it processes ammonia to nitrite then to nitrate. Most filters stop there and the nitrate is not processed as that relies heavily on anaerobic bacteria which almost all available filter media cannot support. Biohome is different as it allows for good anaerobic bacteria colonisation as well as the more common aerobic bacteria. Therefore it completes the Nitrogen cycle.
Biohome filter media has a massive surface area for aerobic bacteria colonisation and also has a great capacity to provide an environment for anaerobic bacteria on the interior of the media.
Hugely porous and extremely efficient, the Biohome media converts ammonia and nitrite (as normal media would) but also reduces nitrate due to the anaerobic bacteria which live in it's core.
This reduces the need for large water changes so creates a more stable environment in your aquarium (freshwater and marine) and pond.
It is inert and will not release any chemicals / minerals into the water but it is advisable to rinse before use as dust may be generated during transit.
Types of Biohome media are as follows:
1 - Biohome Standard
A compact media suitable for overhead filters, trickle filters, sumps, external and internal filters.
2 - Biohome Plus
As above but with additives to ensure much faster colonisation by bacteria.
3 - Biomotion
A rounded media with neutral buoyancy. Suitable for moving bed filters, overhead filters, trickle filters, sumps, external filters and internal filters. Has montmonrolite clay coating to condition water.
4 - Biohome Ultra (large)
A larger version of Biohome standard with rougher feel. Extremely porous. Suitable for trickle towers, sumps, larger external filters, overhead filters and multi chamber koi filters.
5 - Biohome mini Ultra
A smaller version of Ultra, perfect for external filters, sumps, overhead filters, trickle filters and internal filters. Has the ultra porous structure in a more convenient size.
6 - Biohome Ultimate*
This is Biohome mini Ultra with added trace elements (as in biohome Plus) which are essential for bacteria to rapidly colonise a filter. Cuts down the already quick maturing time of Biohome media and has the ultra porous structure and convenient size of Mini Ultra.
Trace elements in 'plus' and 'ultimate': Silica, Titania, Alumina, Ferric Oxide, Lime, Magnesia, Potash, Soda, Phosphorus Pentoxide, Chromium Sesquioxide, Manganic Oxide, Zirconia, Hafnia, Zinc Oxide, Barium Oxide, Strontia, Stannic Oxide, Sulphur Trioxide. (from XRF analysis)
Is this the best filter media ever? Very likely.
*In the UK the Biohome Ultimate is my exclusive product and has been made to exact specifications making it the 'Ultimate' filter media and ending my search for the best filter media.
Feel free to share this video anywhere you think people may benefit from it - especially on forums as I see so many poor videos on the Nitrogen cycle where they just stop at the Nitrogen production point.
**PLEASE NOTE I HAVE CLOSED TYNE VALLEY AQUATICS AND NOW SELL ONLINE FROM HOME. COLLECTING MEDIA IS NO PROBLEM SO GIVE ME A RING OR EMAIL ANY TIME**
My number 07772848730 (Richard)
My email address sales@filterpro.co.uk
Thanks for watching and if you have liked this video please click the thumbs up icon.
Check out the hundreds of other videos on my channel.
Carbon is useful to remove staining or residual fish treatments but should not be necessary to control ammonia, nitrite or nitrate. A suitable sized filter properly set up will do that but all too often people are running filters which are too small with crap media in there so carbon is used to mask the fact that the filter is not working properly.
sir i need medias ....but i need direct from you...plz help
i was using food to cycle my tank i used so much it now smells i took out all the water fresh water back in and cleaned my filter my filter sponge and carbon smell bad should i replace them my water still smells kinda bad even thougth it cleaned out
im in brisbane ,going to start 2 tanks , 1 with oscars and 1 with orandas .
definitely going to get some of your BIOHOME Ultimate .
will be 350 L tanks with 1000L canister filters and a pre filter
pretty sure i understand the Nitrogen cycle from your videos
is just a matter of water testing over time ?
will be doing the no fish method with gel filter balls
might be a silly question but do i need to do water changes while waiting for the cycle to happen ?
thank you very much for your videos
Pondguru no
I haye bean using biohome media for the last 4 months in a canister filtter . I modified the canister by adding 2 canister boosters to keep the media clean my nitrates in my reef tank where between 30 40 ppm for the last 12 months and have bean strugling to reduce them. Since using biohome media my nitrates are now down to under 5 ppm if you use biohome right you will have amazing results
I JUST WANT TO SAY THANK YOU! THE WAY YOU EXPLAIN THINGS AND MAKE IT SIMPLE TO UNDERSTAND IS AMAZING. THANK YOU SO MUCH. GREETINGS FROM SPLIT, CROATIA!
What a cracking video, returning to the hobby after 32 years, things have definitely progressed from my dupla apisto tank in Germany.
An excellent video, and a great explanation of the nitrogen cycle. Partly inspired by your videos I built my own filter for our small pond. Not only does it work really well with pretty well zero nitrate levels but it is also is a great source of water for our tropical fish tank. The aquarium is probably extremely overstocked but the fish are thriving. In my experience it seems the very worst thing I can do is to add tap water to either as it kills off the bacteria. The answer seems to be to keep a stock of tap water in an open container to let it naturalise for as long as possible.
+g0fvt That all sounds good to me. Tap water does just need to stand for a few days to be good for water changes.
Just watched a more recent video of yours.. made me go back and look at your earlier videos so here I am! I only started keeping fish about a year ago and I'm addicted! Thanks for your videos.. always learning!
I have seen many of the videos you made and bought 20kg of the Biohome Ultimate Maxi for my pond. It's been aound a week and I already see a huge improvement to the previous setup I had. Will need time to confirm the full cycle in my pond, but I am sure this will be perfect. This being said, I think this is the best explanation for someone new to having fish.
Beginner Aquarist here. This is the first and only thing I have read or watched. I just thought a bigger tank meant it was easier to maintain and have NO idea about any kind of nitrogen cycle. This video was so helpful to me and I want to thank you for your time in making it and appreciate the effort in trying to help others understand this cycle. I think you did a great job and it was super easy to follow your topics. This will help me a great deal and I am so happy you have a distributer here in the States for you product, Biohome Ultimate. :) I do plan on making your media (one of many new concepts I have learned today) my one and only media I will use! Looking forward to having a beautiful tank with many happy fish!
No worries - I like to make videos which help people and throw new ideas into the mix as there's so many out there which just regurgitate the same limited information with no independent thought from the maker.
Best of luck with your fish keeping.
The most comprehensive and technical filtration and bacterial vlog I've come across, I love fish but even this is too much for me, I just want my prized kois to live and grow and have the best life possible.
I'm ordering this Biohome bacteria, just need to know how and where to put it in my filter and how much
Fascinating.Looking into keeping small native uk freshwater fish and this production laid down some much needed foundations for me.Thank you.
No worries, man. Thanks for watching and appreciating the videos.
This is one of the most fully explained explanations of the cycle and mechanics i have heard with out all the scientific jibber-jabber. Watching this made me want this Biohome media and i went out and got some. Thank you for making videos that i can watch with my kids in the room.
Lowtech Tank The reason that there's no scientific jibber-jabber is that I don't understand that myself, lol.
haha! i did study biology and chemistry but still would rather listen to more simple explanations.
Lowtech Tank Same here - I like to think that the viewers don't want to see yet another clown on TH-cam trying to be clever so I keep it simple, lol
You are funny too so that make it more entertaining to watch than some dry professor dictating the facts.
This has to be one of the easiest and most understandable videos on this subject. When I change my biomedia this year, I'll try the Biohome Ultimate. Grtz
It is far and away the best media you can get so I've no problem recommending it, man.
Thanks for watching and appreciating the video.
Hi Pondguru, My Eheim 388 canister filter, which is almost 40 years old, is going to be my nano tank filter. Yes, it still runs and purrs! I was using it originally on my SW 55 g as a biological filter. Now I want to use it for my BioCube 14 nano, when I set it up as a planted tank. I've been watching your vids, and am so impressed with the research you've done, your passion, and how much you care to share your information with aquarists.
My Eheim canister capacity is 1.4 L, motor produces 4 liters/minute. It has two "grates" - one for the bottom, which rests about 1/2 inch above the canister floor just above the intake. The other grate I used for holding media from being sucked into the power head. No baskets. I used to use filter floss on top of the bottom grate and another layer on top of the substrate. The substrate, (crushed coral) was held in an old nylon stocking. The canister measures 3½ inch (ID) and 9 inches tall.
I will be ordering Ultimate from the U.S. distributor. I just don't know how much I need. Should I break the sticks in half? I am going to have to put them in some sort of filter bag that rests on top of the last (fine) foam. Speaking of which...
I am trying to find foam, and no one makes foam for a 3½ inch diameter canister. I don't mind cutting it then from a sheet. I found a place that would custom cut rectangular sheets of reticulated foam:
www.angelsplus.com/FiltersCustom.htm
in 15, 30 and 50 pores per inch (ppi). The thinnest sheet they have is 2 inches. Cutting that to 1 inch is easy enough. I looked on Amazon, and am clueless what the porosity is of reticulated foam is, as listed there. I can buy expensive Eheim foam filters, and did order Eheim's fine filter.
What do you recommend for foam thickness?
Does the US. distributor carry the foam you showed on your other vid, I think it was Oasis (manufacturer). Sure would be easier...
I have a Fluval 206 canister filter on my turtle's tank. My plan was to use water from Sami's tank, to jump start the nano. Since it is going to be a planted tank the substrates planned are AquaSoil, topped with Eco-Complete, then decorative small river gravel. I surely don't want soil particles to damage the Ultimate.
Any ideas would be very welcome. See, I can be just as long winded! I really enjoyed all the videos you've made. Things certainly have changed having been away from the FW aquarium hobby for 45 years. I am so looking forward to using BioHome, and getting my nano tank up and running! Thank you for your time and answers.
Sincerely, Marla
I use Biohome and I have been keeping fish since the 70's with my dad and I have never had such stable levels in a tank. The Biohome media is a real benefit.
+Andrew Denley Awesome to hear, thanks for the comment and happy fish keeping.
Richard, thanks for this, I've been changing my filter every week....not changing water etc...couldn't understand why the fish was dying... Had no idea what I was doing your vids are great easy to understand and will save me buying new fish every week.
Great stuff, have placed order for gel balls..
No worries, glad you found the video useful.
I've packaged up all orders which came in up to 11am this morning so it will go in the morning.
Really good info, been keeping tanks for about 3 years and recently set up a red bellied piranha tank and cycled my new tank in one week by using 2 filter sponges from my 2 established tanks, sat them in the new aquarium and used Seachem's Stability daily for a week and tank is fully cycled :D and since Piranhas need to be heavily fed, ammonia and nitrite has been at 0. Most bacteria in a bottle don't work but Stability works wonders IF you get a fresh bottle.
Yes that is the problem with bottled stuff - if it's fresh its good.
I'm assuming that you have either a sump or external filter so if you get problems with nitrate in the future consider swapping the media for biohome ultimate. It takes between 4-6 months for the anaerobic bacteria to mature and reduce nitrate but you can't get a more efficient media.
Richard,
An aquarium is a closed system, like you said "no flow". A river is an open system. Moving water. My son is one that thinks water changes are a waste of time. Some people JUST do not "get it". Hence dead fish ! I have had fish for well over 50 years, still have to learn how much W/c's each every differant fish needs.
Woody
Dear Woody,
Yes even in a hyper filtered where all pollutants read zero (full cycle filtration) it is good to change out about 10% a week just to freshen things up and remineralise the water.
Thanks for watching and appreciating the videos.
Regards,
Richard
I really enjoyed this video and I love the passion you have for filtration and getting the maximum bio efficiency out of the filter system. If anyone was to ask me to explain to them how aquarium filters work then I'd certainly give them this video link. I have found that most commercial filters are designed to look streamline or built as small as possible to look more appealing and tend to use the bare minimum of filter media to accomplish a satisfactory reasonably sized end product. I prefer to build my own sump or over head filter and add as much media as I feel will run my system bio efficiently. My water is pre-filtered through filter floss (100% polyester pillow filling) before being bio filtered.
That system sounds perfect as it will allow the biological media to do its job properly. I'm assuming you've got some good media in there so the levels must always be good.
Thanks for watching and appreciating the videos.
top work, at last a in depth easy to understand video for beginners and experienced fish keepers, I do really rate your videos always a joy to watch.
No worries, man. Thanks for watching and appreciating the videos. With this one I was working from a plan for the first minute or so then I just threw that in the bin and went free style but that resulted in almost 45 minutes of footage to edit down, lol
this video is fantastic, it tells you stuff i had no idea about ive sent away for most off the s
things, , thank you
Very informative, thank you. I set up a jewel rio 125, about 10 days ago, with lots of live plants, a powerful internal filter, undergravel filter and air stone. How long should i leave it, before adding a few fish?
Ideally the tank would run for a week or so before you start to trickle fish in, adding more every 1-2 weeks until the full stocking level is attained.
You explain things excellently Richard! So am I right in assuming that my ceramic rings will eventually get blocked up and I will need to bin them and put new ones in?
Richard, many thanks for all of your content. I'm happy to be commenting this to say my home aquarium is now performing a full nitrogen cycle thanks to your advice and 3Kg of Biohome Ultimate filter media (180 litre moderately planted tropical community tank). Subscriber for life here, you're a legend mate
Nice one - thanks for the positive report. It's just simple Nature but unbelievably there are still people online who think a full cycle is impossible, lol
@@pondguru I'm a believer mate, been watching the Nitrate test tube bottles once a month willing them to stay yellow, when it happened I did it three times in total just to be sure!
@@paddy878mh (my other account) Groovy, it's a simple case of Terrain theory trouncing Germ theory, lol
You are extremely pleasing on the eye... Any case, fantastic video!
I have an APS 2000ef which has foam, white pads, bio balls and ceramic media at present.....I have just ordered some Biohome ultra plus, which of my current media should I bin first and over what period....?? Thanks....awesome video btw...!!
just purchased some of the ultimate from the US store, i have a mixed reef with a heavy bio load, going to give it a try, cheers.
Congratulations, man - you have the best media available. It will not let you down.
Thanks for watching and appreciating the videos.
Hi Richard,
Brilliant videos on filtration which make so much sense. I started a tropical 250 litre aquarium 12 months ago and gradually added fish. I played everything by the book and did quite a lot of research, including an external Tetra filter with its next to useless media set up. I even added some zeolite to be on the safe side. I do weekly 25% water changes. Regular water testing indicated that the main parameters were fine. However, six months later an outbreak occurred and I lost 14 fish. Things stabilized and I'm now gradually introducing new fish (two per fortnight). It was at this point that I came across your excellent lucidly produced videos. On reflection, I reckon that the only thing which was giving me good water readings and preventing a total catastrophe was the weekly water changes. I've now set up my filter as suggested by your videos with two baskets of biohome ultra and ultimate. I've still got some carbon and zeolite in the filter as a back up until the new filter material is fully functional. Is this okay? As this has been a steep learning curve I'm now very cautious about water quality and what comes out of the tap. I've come across Seachem Prime which I've started to use to dechlorinate tap water. This product has rave reviews as it is claimed it neutralises ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. I've also got Seachem Purigen, but so far not used in my filter. If I use these products (especially the Purigen) will they compliment or negate the the biohome filter media?
Many thanks
+Graeme Samuel Yes it will be fine to leave the carbon in until the bacteria gets established and does away with the need for it.Not sure about prime but unless you are prepared to replace the purigen with new each time definitely do not use that as the recharging process / buffer added to prevent pH rise seems to destroy the anaerobic bacteria, preventing the filter establishing properly. On the few occasions where biohome users have reported the media failing to establish with anaerobic bacteria (and suffering from rising nitrates) the common factor has been purigen. Once it was removed from filter the media could establish with anaerobic bacteria and nitrates fell as they should.There should be no need for any products to be added which remove ammonia, nitrite and nitrate as the filter should easily cope with that naturally through bacterial action.
+Pondguru Outdoors Many thanks for this Richard. I will proceed as recommended. I've added the bio-balls bacteria and the biohome has been in the filter for 3 weeks. Would you advise another dose of bio-balls as I have 32 fish (mostly small Tetra varieties) in 250 litres or am I just being a bit on the over cautious side? I'm still sticking to weekly 25% water change.
Many thanks, Graeme
+Graeme Samuel Just monitor water conditions and change when necessary. There should be no need for adding more balls but if you notice ammonia and nitrite creeping up (which it should not do) then add some balls to bring it down and put more bacteria into the system.
+Pondguru Outdoors . Thank you so much for the advice. I feel a lot more confident about taking this forward again. I don't mind losing the odd fish now and again (it happens) but taking a hit as I did a month ago when I thought I was doing everything right was a blow. I find it incredible that the manufacturers of external filters can get it so wrong and that the staff in aquarium outlets are non the wiser either.
+Graeme Samuel I think the problem is that today many shop staff are either so brain dead that they follow any instruction and simply don't question anything unless there is some facebook campaign they can jump on and head off entirely in the wrong direction. Its very much a herd mentality. The manufacturers don't want to innovate or even consider the simple principles of filtration for the benefit of the end user which is plain sad as they are only interested in follow on sales - just look at the biorb. It has the most ineffective filtration of any aquarium but the filter is the only thing which had been ignored for the many years of 'improvements' with different shaped aquariums, led colour changing lights etc. etc. while millions of fish die in their own waste each year and the biorb wins design awards from people who consider features other than the heart of the aquarium, the thing which keeps the water healthy and fish alive - the filter. It makes me mad to see the wasted products which are sold to paper over the cracks of a failing filter system and the associated problems which result in fish deaths the world over but the great thing is that at least I can try and put out proper information on youtube so its great when viewers who can think for themselves consider the information presented and make the necessary changes to see the benefits and have a better functioning aquarium. Thanks for watching and appreciating the videos.
Pond Guru really does know his stuff. The Biohome ultra I used with the bioballs amazed me. No lie, I've cycled many canisters and sumps accross various sized tanks, I was amazed how well these products in conjunction work. Great work Mr Guru, love it. Now I'm going to need 10kg for the fish room. Ouch it's gonna hurt the wallet but really no comparison with other products.
Great to hear that you appreciate how good it is and yes it is relatively expensive until you take into account how much you could have spent on chemicals and large water changes (regularly) to keep the water right.
The media is very labour intensive to produce as there are many stages before it goes in the kiln but it definitely is worth the effort as attaining 0 ammonia, nitrate and nitrate is like finding the holy grail, lol
Pondguru Yeah I 100% agree, it is well worth the money, In my opinion you've developed a product that quite literally has no comparison. I'll be ordering the bulk load soon. Just trying to stabilise the drip auto change system that currently has a mind of its own and then get these growing Discus fry some new filtration. Even when I take into account the cost of the media I'm sure in water and RO cartridges alone It will have paid for itself in a matter of weeks. I'll have to take a trip up to your store.
Groovy - all sounds good to me. I closed the shop a couple of years ago to concentrate on working from home but collecting is no problem as I'm not far from where the shop was at DH8 9JA 07772848730
Have you done much with algae filters? I am a huge fan as they are easy to maintain and do a great job of removing nitrate. I like the idea of anaerobic bacteria as in theory, would be even easier to maintain.
helicrashpro I haven't had anything to do with algae filters /scrubbers as I really like the idea of a long term solution offered by the anaerobic colonisation of special media. There's loads of stuff I haven't got any experience of as I like to keep it simple. Manufacturers would have us believe that fishkeeping is difficult but it should be really simple, lol
I have the synthetic filter floss as the pre filter. In chamber one I have a litre and half of K1 being turned over before the water runs into the 2nd chamber which houses a couple of bags of ceramic bio rings, 1kg in total. The water runs through the outlet back into tank causing additional aeration.
I'm disappointed I bought the ceramic rings having watched your videos in Biohome media. When my media needs replacing I'm certainly gonna give the Biohome a go :)
Ceramic rings certainly aren't the worst media you could use but for soaking up nitrates the biohome reigns supreme. I made a decision that any of the products I sell will have an advertising budget of nil and just be promoted through positive reports and good information videos. It is going better than I could ever imagine which is great.
have found ur vidoes extreemly helpful, especialy the wildlife pond as that is what i'm attempting to do on a much smaller scale, have been doing alot of research and there seems to be a mixed opinion as to whether you need a pump if you're not keeping fish.. wondering what ur advise is, i'm worried that the water will just be stagnant if i don't.
If you have a fish pond you will need a pump and filter to guarantee clear water but if you have fish you will only have limited wildlife as they will eat most of it.
wow, that was a Encylopedia Britannica session. Amazing
So what happens after nitrate? Does it get converted to N2 and just escapes from the water like CO2 does?
Is it also a safe assumption that live aquatic plants will eat some level of nitrate as well, or am I mistaken?
Also something that was mentioned not in your video, but elsewhere was phosphates. How is that handled?
It's been a while since I've had my 29 gallon tank up, but I really have the itch to go at it again. I am enjoying your videos very much, thank you!
As far as the Nitrates go, yes and yes although plants still seem to do very well in tanks where the nitrate is untraceable when using biohome to hammer the nitrates so I can't work that one out.
As far as phosphates go I don't know much about that but the guys who make the biohome media for me are working on a media which could naturally control phosphates through bacteria so I will be interested to see how testing goes on that.
Glad you enjoy the videos - thanks for watching and best wishes for 2015
this is the best video regarding filtration from this i had completely know about nitrogen cycle.......thanks for the upload and upload more videos
No worries, man. Most people usually forget about the last part of the cycle which is the reduction of nitrate. This is probably because they haven't used biohome media. It really is awesome stuff for keeping the water sweet for fish.
Thanks for watching and appreciating the videos.
This is an old video I enjoyed watching, have your views changed at all from this or still the same sicence applies.
Cheers
Great video, I would watch a two hour vidio of yours . You give the information need and not chopped up into ten different videos. Couldn't come at a better time. I've been having troubles with nitrates changing water three times a eeek at times. Going to check out the US supplier. Im from Shelburne Vermont USA. A big fan of your videos thanks for taken the time to make such great videos.
No worries, man. Thanks for watching and enjoying the videos. I do try not to have the same topic in loads of videos as seeing that bugs me too. Many of the more popular channels will have update after update with no new information in there but I prefer to learn stuff then use that to come up with new ideas.
The US supplier has all types of biohome.
+Adrian Reitmaier
It will still support bacteria but to make a moving bed filter you need media with a neutral buoyancy - proper moving bed filter media.
You are awesome! I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge and you are a fantastic teacher. Thank you and please keep them coming.
PS, something I'd like to see you delve into is DIY filters.
+Stacy Foster Glad you enjoy the videos and I wish I got more time for making them. Since late last summer I have been crazy busy so haven't put many videos out but there will be more to come.
The DIY filter scene is something I should make more videos about so thanks for the suggestion.
+Trev Bell
I would just stick with what you have as no filter will build up enough bacteria to cope with fish in a few days. You have aeration which is the most important thing so just do a 20% water change every 3-4 days and it should be fine for that stock of fish.
***** You would do a minimum of a 10% change every week or even twice a week if ammonia and nitrite show. By the looks of it the filter is maturing OK as you have nitrite and nitrate but as I don't have any previous I readings to compare I can't say for sure. Most filters will take a good 5-6 weeks to mature and unless you have a sensible amount of biohome in there the nitrates should be the only problem as the filter will produce them (which then requires you to do water changes to reduce nitrate)
Hey Pondguru! Been reserching filters as I'm building a paludarium tank.
Great information and great videos, instant sub and costumer!
I have one question tho, I'm going to get the Biohome ultimate, wondering about the aproximate volume of 1 kg?
Cheers from Sweden
It is normally around 1.2 litres per 1kg of biohome ultimate.
Since I'm setting up a new tank, I'm thinking about doing as you say and using about a kilo of BioHome per 100 liters. But there is one thing I don't understand. I've always been told that nitrate (like phosphate) is a type of nutrition for plants. But after the full cycle once works and the amount of nitrate goes near zero, what happens to the nutrition of my plants? Do I then have to fertilize my tank with nitrate?
By the way: Thank you very much for your videos. I have watched many of them over the last few weeks and they are always very informative. I have never heard of the BioHome filter media before. Thanks to your videos, I will give it a try. I plan to put 5 kg of BioHome into an Oase BioMaster 850 with an Eheim Incpiria 430 tank. I chose the filter based on your Pimp my filter video, so thanks again for your work!
I'm glad the videos have been useful for you.
In a planted tank the nitrate should read zero - some of the nitrate produced by the aerobic bacteria will be taken up by the plants and some will be taken up by the anaerobic bacteria - either way the plants grow fine as they need much more than nitrate.
Plants will always benefit from adding some sort of plant food so feel free to add some.
Does all the bacteria in my pond shower filter die during the winter? So come spring it's like a new cycle?
If a filter is left running the bacteria will survive but if a filter is turned off (and the food supply for the bacteria stops) the bacteria will die or go dormant. It will fire up quite quickly next spring but if its been off all winter it will have to start again, yes.
Hi, just received your media that I ordered from the US distributor and I cant wait ot try it. US distributor is great to deal with by the way. Hope you get a Canadian distributor in the future. Thanks
There is one guy interested in Canada but he works between Canada and Italy so he's not sure which region he wants (or is able) to act from.
You will no doubt find out it is excellent media.
I've been using the biohome media for a couple of years now works great I love it how often should the media is self be replaced ❓
We generally say that in a well set up filter that you can expect a good 6-10 years at high efficiency but many people are still using the same media after 15+ years - as long as you are using enough to achieve a full cycle (reduction in nitrate) a steady rise in nitrate will indicate that it is no longer efficient and at that point you can remove it and put in a hot oven for 45-60 minutes to burn off any organic matter and it should be sterilized and good to go again for a few more years.
There is loads of useful information on the Q&A page on my website www.filterpro.co.uk
Regards,
Richard
Pondguru I think this is the best filter media ever thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question have a great day 😁🐠
No worries, any time.
Great video. I have 1 question. Will lava rock work to? I have large outdoor koi ponds. And use a pump pumping to a water fall tank filled with green weenie sponges with lava rocks in the bottom that flow back into a pond slowly.
As surface area is critical, there are much better media than lava rock but it is way better than plastic. Effectiveness would rank lava rock then alfagrog then biohome.
Brilliant my fish would have died hadn't it been for this wonderful video.
What a brilliant guy to share his knowledge. Thank you so much Richard.
No worries, knowledge should always be free I reckon.
Hi Richard,
We were in the shop on Saturday asking for some advice. This video has made everything you said the other day make sense! Will be in buying more Bio-home and of course some fish soon enough.
No worries, glad to be of service and if you're coming for more biohome phone up first to check we have plenty in stock. Shop number is 01661844005 and my mobile is 07772848730 if you need a decent quantity of media.
I am using a Fluval 306 and setting it up like you say to do. Is a fast flow in the cannister better when starting out with Bio Home or should I should I slow it down? Thanks
I'm using a Aquaclear 110 and wanted to know is it more beneficial to have a bag of charcoal in the filter or a bag of bio balls? I cannot fit both (a sponge and Chemi-pure in there also).. Thanks Joe
Hi there. We don't have Biohome products here In Australia, well not that I can find anyway. Have you looked at products such as Seachem's Matrix and Continuum's Bact-Rox? Cheers :)
I appreciate all previous advice that you have given me it helped a great deal. I have a 55 gallon tank my 3 oranda goldfish are missing some scales and have developed at least one blood streak in each of their tails... I do water changes of 75% twice a week... should I use melafix... they are eating great and look very healthy and are active... I'm not sure if I should leave them alone or teeat... the only thing I use in my water is api stress and coat and stress and zyme with aquarium salt... please guide me
I assume you have tested the water for ammonia and nitrite? If they are zero it may be worth putting some melafix in but only if the salt content is low.
If the filter is working well there should be no ammonia, no nitrite and very low nitrate so there should be no need to use the stress zyme for water changes. The stress coat is a good one to add with the new water but salt really should only be added as an aid to treatment (e.g. for white spot). You don't say if salt is added regularly but if it is and levels are elevated that may adversely affect the fish as it builds up in the water.
75% water changes twice a week are huge and that can't be doing the fish any good - why such big changes?
+Pondguru Outdoors
I had a fungus outbreak about a month ago so I was using salt with huge water changes when it cleared up I was trying to prevent it from coming back... I lessened my water changes now and dosed with a melafix and it seemed to have worked!
Sounds good to me - Melafix smells awesome too.
Marla Spellenberg There should be no need to snap up the ultimate for that filter as it will fit in fine but may be worth putting in a filter bag to keep it all together. The eco complete and gravel may well keep the pH up around 7.5 so bear that in mind. The foams don't need to be very thick as long as they are graded down from coarse to fine as the face of them takes most of the muck.
I think Don at www.greatwaveeng.com (the US supplier of biohome) has foams in now and as he is an engineer so would be able to work out how much media you would need once the thickness of his foams (or ones you have) are taken into account. The coarse and medium foam I do is only about 1" thick but the fine particle mat is around 2" thick but can be torn down to less thickness if needed.
I will have a new video being uploaded soon which will have a biorb aquarium being upgraded using a new filter media which can also be used as a shrimp and plant substrate so look out for that one.
Thank you Richard. I know I was long winded, but with an old small Eheim, I needed to give you some idea of what I was working with. I will call Don and see if he has the foam.. would be nice to just get everything at once.! I greatly appreciate your quick response, and one day I will jump the puddle and hie to England... Several friends I want to visit as well. :)
Marla Spellenberg Just make sure you come in the height of summer as the weather isn't so good for about 10 months of the year, lol
Hi Richard, my Hubby, Steve, has visited UK and Ireland, and says "There is no bad weather, just bad clothes". But, I agree, summer is best for any flitting around the globe! :)
I got in touch with Don, he is shipping my 1 kilo Ultimate, based on the cu. in, calculation on interior of my wee Eheim 388. Area falls right between the 500g and 1 k, so to have enuf, he's sending the 1 k. (Eheim need 785g) He's also shipping some foam for me to try! Right now Don is at a Koi & Pond Expo, but will get my stuff out ASAP! I sent him pix of my Eheim, he was thrilled, and is making a Customer folder for me! Now, I guess, I have to "live up" to all this attention. hahaha
Hey Pondguru quick question, can you provide the name of the brand of foam you use in your videos, or even a webpage were we can purchase it from? also the name would be great having a hard time finding it online.
***** The link is in the video description for my shop on ebay and the US suppler also in video description. Not sure if The AU supplier of biohome does the foams yet.
Hi Pondguru, I have two Fluval 407 external filters, which I have pimped according to your pimp your filter video`s... The new tank is 350 litres, which will be a new home for my goldfish. If I add water from the current active smaller tank to it, which has bacteria in it and add biological gel balls to the media in the new filters, how soon do you think it would roughly be before I can put my fish in the new tank? Any tips? Thanks. :)
Hi Great Video, Very useful information. I need some advise, I have a mechanical filter that is filtering the water. I added another new filter to the tank and have taken out the foam and added Sheachem De Nitrate Media only. My question is, is it ok to have a filter running on media only without the foam? I already have a mechanical filter already doing that for me. Thanks
Provided the media filter is being fed from the foam filter, yes. If not then the media will quickly become clogged and ineffective.
Very nice video. The video for setting up an external filter seems to be deleted.
+elvis fernandes Damn TH-cam, the end of the link was deleted for some reason, should work now.
Thanks for watching and appreciating the videos.
Well explained and necessary to understand for success.
Thanks for a very informative review. I am setting up a 57 liter tank for freshwater shrimp and ordering BIOHOME media. Should I also order Biohome BioGravel and could you recommend a good test kit? Thanks
Unless you have shrimps (which love the biogravel) it works out as an expensive substrate and will only have a limited biological action unless it is used over an under-gravel plate. Most tropical fish prefer sand base.
Thank you for this great learning opportunity. I’m new to this hobby. Is it possible to put bio material in my hang on the back filters? I currently have Marineland Bio wheel filters. Thank you. 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Yes although there often isn't much available space for proper media in there. Best types would be the biohome plus, ultimate or biogravel but you may have to use them in a filter bag in a HOB.
There is a guide to how much media is needed to achieve full cycle filtration (reduction in nitrate) on the Q&A page of my website here www.filterpro.co.uk
I purchased your biohome media. I set up my external filter exactly like you explained in your other video. I used the gel balls also. My question is, my tank now is a little cloudy and has things floating on it. Is this normal? I also have a in tank filter still going that I have had from the start of my tank.
Did you wash the media prior to use and did you add new media gradually (if the filter was on a mature tank)?
If the filter was reset to day one by adding all the media in one go on a mature tank it could be a bacterial bloom but if it was a simple case of not washing the media before adding to the filter then it could be dust generated during transit which will get caught in the foams / fine pad in the filter(s).
Pondguru thank you for the reply. It was washed but it was all put in at once. My filter only had what came with it and like you said isn't much of anything. I did have a older in the tank filter that I thought would pick up the slack. It was bacteria bloom but it is all cleared up now and my canister filter is working great thanks to my new media.
me iam working on a new closed pen for off shore pens have you seen the issue hope to order your product soon thank you are a genuine genius iam also working on the first solar laser system pumps need a lot of power
A laser powered pump? I'm not sure what you mean, man.
loved your show. i have a 3 stage filtering system. stage one is the 1.5" of gravel at the bottom of my 120 gallon shallow tank that is about 6 feet long. i have plastic plants that algae is allowed to grow on. stage two, water siphons down to a 1x2x1.5 foot plastic box with plastic bio spheres. the water is "T" off several times to distribute the water evenly over the spheres (aerobic). the water trickles down the spheres to a catch basin where the water is siphoned to the third stage (anaerobic). the anaerobic stage uses a 1x2x1.5 plastic box that has a sack of garden landscaping lava rock. the water enters the box on one side of the pile of lava rocks, flows thru the lava rock to the pump that pumps it back up to the aquarium. the water enters the aquarium on one end and exists the aquarium on the other end 6 feet away. i rarely have to do anything to system but add water from evaporation.
Sounds like you have all the components of a successful system there - groovy.
Hi Pond Guru can you tell me the name and brand of internal filter you had in you hand while explaining ammonia cycle, in the beginning of the video. Would really appreciate it.
OH WOW!!! Loads of information! Thank you Pondguru!!! Wish this video was out when i started up my tank. I will share in the hope that other newcomers won't loose fish unecessarily.
I should have done one like this years ago, lol
Mr guru - great videos - thanks. Do you use or recommend Micro (50-300 micron) pads for mechanical filtration for canister filtration? Obviously, this would be on top of the other mechanical filters (Course, fine, micro pad).
I find that the pond foams in coarse and medium followed by the fine particle matting does a sterling job but you could add an even finer pad after that if you want. It depends on how much muck your filter sucks in, turnover rate etc. as to how often it will need replacing but just experiment - it won't do any harm.
Hey Richard, I was wondering something about the fluval u series filters. I bought the U2 a couple of weeks ago and I must say I'm pretty impressed with the way it's made and the way the media trays are made and easy to clean but would you modify anything about it like the carbon pads or the polishing pads attached to that or maybe the bio media? I added a couple or sera siporax rings into the bio media tray. I know you don't have the shop anymore but I'm hoping you remember what was inside the filter. Another thing, I don't really trust carbon impregnated pads because I can't coop with the face that it doesn't have the pore network or am I misunderstanding it? Thanks mate!
Potion of Kings The new biogravel is perfect for use in very small media compartments as it gives maximum surface area in minimum volume. Not sure what you mean about the carbon pads - sometimes they are necessary as the filters they come with often can't cope with the size of tank they are recommended for. You can buy carbon pads and cut to size if necessary as they will be much cheaper than 'proper' fluval ones.
Hello,
I lately watched your video and saw the Aqua One Pads in the background of the shop, so I would like to sdk you ehat you think about these and if they‘re useful for chemical filtration. Maybe you could tell me where I can buy it in Germany.
Regards
Falk
Cannot understand the "not likes" you and Ben Ochart receive, you both great information to the hobbyist.
On this video it has over 140k views and only 39 dislikes so I'd say that is pretty good, lol
I know in my situation much of the information I put out about how to size filters correctly, set filters up properly, achieving a full cycle etc. etc. contradicts what many of the 'big' aquatic channels are saying and that accounts for a few early 'dislikes' from some of their many their fake channels or ardent followers when a video is uploaded but I'm more than happy with the quality of viewers I'm getting on the channel as my typical viewer is intelligent and is here to learn more about filtration / fish keeping for the sake of their fish.
From my position that's a great situation to be in as the comment section of each video tends to become a useful place for extra questions and good answers from people who have experience in different areas of the hobby as opposed to endless hollow comments about nothing useful.
No matter what a few channels would have you believe nobody is an expert in everything and pretending to be so just causes genuine people to desert the channel in favor of sycophantic time wasters who simply want 'reality' TV with no value. I'd never swap my viewer base for the millions of viewers some of the money driven fake characters are getting on their channels and I guess that's why I'm drawn toward genuine channels like Ben's too as it is a real breath of fresh air compared to the daily fake nonsense Google / TH-cam would rather have us watching in the 'recommended' section of TH-cam.
Sorry I went on a bit there but I'm passionate about getting good information out there and will always support channels who are genuine - If you haven't found him already one of the best for information and a really genuine character is 'Mark's Aquatics'. He puts videos out almost daily but they aren't the fake 'reality' type of cash grabs favored by many channels, they are properly useful videos about all aspects of the hobby - a real nice guy. There are plenty of similar channels but finding them is getting harder and harder - thanks for watching and appreciating what I'm doing on mine.
I have a 125 gal. African cichlid tank with a sump filter system that I am new to. Question is in the 70's we always added a small hand full of rock salt to the aquarium with each water change. will the salt harm the bacteria in the sump or a canister filter. Thanks for your kindness and great information, from Texas-"a whole 'nuther country" lol.
@@dontaylor8451 Rock salt has all sorts of useful minerals so can do good for fish which like mineralized water (e.g. malawi cichlids) but they would normally het that from the suitable rocks in the tank.
If you use salt you'll definitely need to check levels as it can build up in concentration if used regularly then fish may have a problem going from those conditions to 'freshwater' conditions. Too much salt isn't good for freshwater fish and can hold the bacteria back in the filter system since it is a natural anti-bacterial and anti-fungal agent.
Thank you.
Pondguru WHERE can i get this in Canada? love your vids long time subscriber. Oh and question 2 does bio home ultra mini and bio home ultimate last the same amount of time. whatx ur opinion on what to use as foams? Looking to order shortly.Wondering ur opinon on which one to order for my Rena xp2 for a 125 cichlid tank.Could i just go one whole basket with filter floss and the 2nd with biohome ultimate. Thx Guru any help appreaciated.
Yes media should always be after foams so it is in clean water to prevent it clogging. There isn't a supplier in Canada yet although I think one guy is interested he hasn't made a move yet. If you give me dimensions of tray(s) you want to fill with media I can work out how much you will need. Ultimate and mini ultra are exactly the same structure so are expected to last at least 6-10 years in a properly set up filter. Best foams are the profile cut replacement pond filter foams as they offer way more surface area due to their 'egg box' shape and they are way cheaper than anything produced for aquariums.
@@pondguru thanks for your video information, great presentation as well! i am in BC, Canada and want to order as well, probably 5K. So if there's a possible distributor, i would like to know as well. Can you tell me how long the bacteria balls cycle tale in general?
@@TheBarwisehennie The CA distributor is Angelfins and links to all main distributors is at the top of every page on the FilterPro website www.filterpro.co.uk (flags are direct links).
The balls dissolve as needed (in the presence of ammonia and nitrite) so could take anywhere from a week to many months depending on water quality.
Hi there Pondguru, I am extremely interested in your Bio Media Ultimate, you mention you ship worldwide but when I look at your e-bay page I don't see Namibia (where I live) or South Africa. How would I be able to get my hands on this product?
I do send larger orders (3kg and above) to Africa as they would be fully tracked but have removed Africa, Thailand, Middle East and Mexico from my Ebay listings as the postage success rate is terrible for those regions.
Assuming you need 3kg or more I will send to Africa no problem so just let me know how much you want and I will give you a price no problem. My Email address is pondguru@btinternet.com
Great video, quick question if you don't mind? I have a PF mini for a 40 litre tank, is there anything I can add to it/ the tank to help with anaerobic bacteria? I am concerned about nitrates in my tank. Cheers again
CharlieDwns There's not really much which can be done with such a small internal filter and although it promises to treat up to 40 litres you'd generally get a filter at least 25%-50% bigger than tank size (depending on fish stock - e.g. 50% bigger for goldfish). A hidden filter in a small ornament driven by air may help reduce the nitrates. Use this video as a guide but the best filter media for such a project may be the new biogravel: th-cam.com/video/OIrQ_RWGRKI/w-d-xo.html
Pondguru that's a great idea! any ideas where I could get hollow resin statue of a smaller size? Its a fairly small tank. had a look around the usual places but struggling to find one that would be much use.
Thanks
CharlieDwns No idea really but if I get stuck I normally do a google image search, highlight the picture then 'visit page' to find the seller.
hi,, I love your video reviews of filters and the nitrogen cycle. I purchased a fluval 406 canister filter for a new aquarium based on your review of it. I am currently cycling a freshwater tank on a cheap hang-on filter. Its a 40 Gallon tank. I filled with Filtered ROI waster. No ammonia and 0.00 reading on particles. I added Stabilize to the water to start the process and a cap of ammonia as food for them. its been a week now and my ammonia reading is still above 4.0. I did a 50% water change yesterday and its still 4.0. I have no media on the bottom of tank but I did add ceramic tiles to the bottom. Can the ceramic tiles be adding to the problem? I just cannot get the ammonia level down. very frustrating.
The bacteria could just need time to build up to process the ammonia and stability should not negatively affect bacteria - what type of water conditioner are you using? If it is the type which 'detoxifies / binds' ammonia, nitrite and nitrate it will effectively starve the bacteria and hold the population at a minimum level which will greatly extend the time it tales to cycle and prevent a full cycle ever completing.
A straight dechlorinator like API stress coat is fine as it simply makes water safe for life, nothing fancy.
Excellent and informative video as always Richard :) I'm in the US and I noticed you mentioned a US supplier of BioHome Ulitimate but I think I'll be ordering from your Ebay site in the next 6 months after I move. I'm not sure if the US supplier will enclose the gel balls and I'd rather show my appreciation of all your videos by ordering from you.
Don't worry about ordering from me, man. I am sending over some of the gel balls with an order to the US which should be leaving early next week. The manufacturer of biohome is sending another 600kg over and I'm sending around 700 peat balls (all sizes) and some gel balls. They should be there in 3-4 weeks (with Greatwave Engineering, link in video description). You'd be better to save money on shipping from the UK by getting the biohome from Greatwave although I do still ship to the US, no worries.
Thanks for watching and appreciating the videos.
One last question...I received my media yesterday. Should I rinse it in some tank water? Or does it need rinsing? Thanks in advance!
Rinse it under the tap if you like as it may have generated some dust during transit. Not essential but advisable, yes.
Hi Richard. Great video... I've recently upgraded my filter in my tropical set up to a fluval u3 filter system. Would biohome ultimate be a suitable substitute to the very small looking ceramic rings that come as standard? Cheers Marc.
It would but the container for the media in a U3 is really small. You'd probably not notice any difference to be honest as the filter really relies a on a series of foams.
Hi Richard,
I'm going to get a 45 gallon tank. Will a sponge filter be enough for it? Or should I get a 3 layered filter with sponge as well as white carbon cylinders? If possible please reply early as I've to buy one soon. Thanks a lot.
+Hussain Ali For that size tank I'd say 100% go with a proper external filter which will treat up to at least 80 gallons.
Hi, like the video. In a pond of two thousand five hundred gallons, how much of the biohome would you recommend, and where would you put it. I have a three 45 gallon tub DIY filter system. Two mechanical with K1 and the other with K1 Micro and a third tub with K1 moving bed. Because the filter is working so well at converting everything to nitrates I have a pond with thriving algae. What do you suggest. Thanks for any help.
A shower filter is probably the most efficient way to reduce nitrates and can easily be made from a water butt. While the biohome ultra or maxi ultimate may be the most effective media for a shower filter with all that plastic media in your system the nitrate production will be very high so I'm not sure how much you would need. In a 2500 gal pond with only a shower filter (which would reduce ammonia, nitrite and nitrate) I would go for around 60kg of biohome ultra. The other option would be a 'vegetable filter' between the outlet of the last filter and the pond but in the UK the effect of them can be quite seasonal since most pond plants die back and are dormant from late autumn to early spring.
If your first filter was for mechanical, second was moving bed and the last one was filled with biohome or even alfagrog you would get:
1 - clear water
2 - aerobic bacteria reducing ammonia and nitrite
3 - anaerobic bacteria reducing nitrate
That way you wouldn't have to build anything else in addition to your existing filter.
I would really like to see filter manufacturers make filters with integrated shower filters for ponds or slow flow areas filled with proper media which will reduce nitrate as a filter which only supports aerobic bacteria is only ever doing half a job and simply acts as a nitrate factory.
Feel free to ring me any time on 07772848730
Pondguru My filter is here on TH-cam or my website is diypondfilters.com. I would appreciate your thoughts and comments if you have the time please.
Terry.
Wrighty Yes checked out the videos a while back and you've made a decent website too.
As I mentioned in the last comment I would personally go with a 3 defined stage approach with mechanical, aerobic and anaerobic to do a full filtering job and reduce the need for pond water changes.
Pondguru Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately 60kg of biohome ultra would cost around £700 and not a viable proposition in my case. Thanks for your comments and love the video's.
Terry.
Wrighty At full retail price, yes it would be way too expensive but price goes down for quantity so I could quote for that if you want: pondguru@btinternet.com
Alternately you could fill the last section with alfagrog which is way cheaper and should make an impact on the nitrates quite easily.
I will be doing a new filter media video in the next week or so and while it may not be of use for pond projects it will probably be of interest as it is a very unique media with a variety of uses. It solves a huge problem with the Biorb type of fish tanks too. I went and bought a used Biorb specifically to make the video so I'm really looking forward to shooting that one as it is a tank I have wanted to fix the filtration in for years and I reckon everyone who has one will think the same. We used to call them the 'ball of death' when I had the shop and wouldn't stock them. This new media and way to upgrade it into a properly filtered tank is a game changer.
hey man, is there an Australian supplier now?
Hi i was looking at those gel filter balls on ebay, the ones you dont use do you just store them in a cupboard for next time?
Ye they can be kept for around 18 months or more in a sealed bag or container.
I keep asking....why do you not recommend Chemical media like chemipure elite?
I have a question Richard: Is it safe to use BioHome Ultimate with an UltraViolet water filter? I was lucky to receive one as a gift and it's certainly helped with my algae issues.
Yes but with all new media switch the UV filter off for a week or so to ensure that there is plenty of good bacteria floating about for quick colonisation. The biohome comes with gel balls (just add to media) which really set it up very fast.
Pondguru
Thanks for the extremely quick answer :-) Also enjoying the metal detecting vids you have.
I figured I could go a month without the UV and just leave windows shaded. 75 gal. tank with a calico fantail and a plecostamus that has grown like a mutant.
I still haven't ordered BioHome Ultimate yet but trying to do research unique to my setup and make sure I have a good home prepared for it once I do get it.
Bill Frick
If you are in the US you can use the US supplier. Just follow link in the video description (click 'show more' to see full description).
Hi, do you have a distributor in Australia yet for your Biohome Ultra filter media? I live here but am from UK & would love to promote this product here.
No not yet although I am waiting to hear back from a couple of well established sellers. If you send details of your store or business or website to verify that you're a business I'd certainly be interested as there is a huge opportunity there for someone in Australia. My email address in pondguru@btinternet.com
Hi, nice video - however seems like everywhere I look no one talks about using canister filters on a salt water tank, i think 99% of people are using sumps but at the moment I've got a fresh water tank with shubunkins on a eheim canister filter, which I want to turn into a nice reef tank - can i use a canister for this and use biohome inside it??
Yes as it works just like live rock. Plenty of people do use canisters for marine but as I don't deal wit marine stock I'm not the best to advise on set up or stocking unfortunately. The most popular choice of media is the mini ultra.
Richard, I wish you would sell those booster balls in the size of package that you have in this video. I think they are great but, Ive got a nano tank and the big bags would sit there forever. :-)
We sell them in a pack of 10 fro the shop. If you want any just phone up on 01661844005 and we can send them out, no worries. It's not a very cost effective way to buy them though.
Where are you best putting the gel balls in your filter? amongst the media or before the sponges? Thanks!
It can go anywhere in the filter but ideally in with the media as long as you have a guard over the tray to prevent the balls being drawn into the pump.
I made a filter with 2 barrels 1 with normal sintered glass media and it gets pump to the other barrel it has 4 diy bottle moving bed in there then it gets pumped into a box and then pumped into the tanks
Great video! I recently set up a 240litre tank and was helped greatly by your channel, its just a shame this particular vid wasn't out a month ago lol thanks
lol, yeah that will be a common comment I imagine as most people's filters will only be pumping nitrates out into the tank.
Thanks for watching and appreciating the videos.
2 questions. How do you clean your bio media? I rinse with tank water. 2nd question...I do weekly water changes of 30 to 40% on my 55 gallon tank. I cannot get my ph lower than 7.5. I'd love to get some discus
Yes rinsing in tank water you have drained off is best way.
30-40% water change is a very large amount and could be reduced way down with effective filtration a mentioned in this video. If you have gravel, silver sand or rocks in your tank the pH may have no chance of reducing but ordinary sand coupled with bogwood and sensible water changes should allow the pH to be reduced.
Thank you. I have gravel and a piece of drift wood. I'm thinking of changing to sand. I'm doing the large water change due to such high nitrate levels. I'm also going to fix my canister filter the way you have it in your video with the course then medium then polishing pad. I have two trays of Matrix bio rocks and a tray of black plastic bio balls
Dan Egan
Gravel will be keeping the pH up and the filter will be producing mad nitrates. By switching to biohome (mini ultra or ultimate) you will effectively reduce nitrates (after 4-6 months of use) resulting in less water changes as explained in this video - thus allowing you to reduce pH.
I'm getting a 55 gallon and plan on putting a Jack Dempsey in it using just a UGF. And a bubble wand. Should I add any type of other filtration? It's only going to be one fish.
The Jack Dempsey may mess about with the gravel so you'd probably be better going for an external canister filter and having a sand base to the tank but assuming the JD doesn't destroy the action of gravel as a filter it should work OK.
I Love your videos. I would like to know where and who is the Distributor in Australia for these products?
I'm not sure they stock all types of biohome but in AU it is genesisgroup.com.au/
I am planning to set up a 60 gallon tank as part of an aquaponic system, with 5 trumpet snails, sand substrate, various tiny tropical fish, external solid waste filter, external bio home ultimate filter and 50 different stages of vegetable growths. Will the vegetation which is grown in a nutrient film technique suffice for complete ecological filtration and will water changes be needed?
Thank you.
I don't know much about aquaponic system set up but it seems quite straight forward. You shouldn't need to do water changes if everything is in balance but it may take a while to achieve that balance. I'd imagine once your crops were in rotation the cycle will run well enough for you to do without water changes.
I'm grateful for your prompt feedback and helpful expertise. The more I read, the more excited I become in creating a complete ecological circuit. I also am planning to include in my shower solid radial filter a platform for red worms with gravel.
Robert Drell Maybe should get into aquaculture as that all sounds very exciting. A wholesaler I was speaking to recently was asking if I wanted to look at the necessary gear for aquaculture so I may well take a look at that.
Very informative video, thankyou.
Just one question though, why dont filter manufacturers supply filter media already populated with bacteria?
The could do that but only in a dormant form (a powder added to media?) as living working bacteria needs a constant flow of water and food to stay active. If you take media from an established system it will have from a few hours to a few days of bacteria surviving on and in it depending on type of media.
Hi Richard,
I hope all is well and amazing work on the videos. A few questions if you don't mind. Purchased a 227 litre tank last weekend and I am not starting the Nitrogen Cycle. The filter purchased is an Aqua One Aquis 1200 and I am currently using the standard media provided in the current order detailed in the instructions. (I see you have another video that recommends different). I'm not 100% on this as my local shop says to only use the filter as instructed or it could become clogged up more often.
The questions I have are.
1) If I continue the nitrogen cycle with the standard media can I add something like Biohome Ultimate over time or would I need to start again?
2) Is it to late to change the set up of the filter ie rearrange to your recommendation
3) How often should the filter media be changed or rinsed?
Currently have a few plants and 10 tetras while the tank is cycling
I am sure I will have more questions but will keep going through your videos.
Cheers
+S miff You can add better media at any point but if the filter is mature you should only change around 25% of old media each week so the change over takes about a month. With regard to the foams and media placement you can set the filter up properly at any time but if it has been set up incorrectly from day one the old media may be clogged and ineffective more quickly. When the media is well protected by decent coarse, medium and fine foams / pads it should hardly ever need rinsing as all the muck will be contained in the bottom of the filter making it much easier to clean. If you do need to clean the mature media just gently shake the media tray in a bucket of water you have drained from the tank.
The local shop is talking nonsense about the filter getting clogged up as the amount of dirt drawn in will not increase when the filter gets set up properly.
As long as you have water flowing it makes no difference to flow rate where the coarse, medium or fine pads are located as all the water needs to go through all of the foams at some point but it makes a heck of a difference to how effective the media is when the foams are all the first thing water hits in a filter as the media will stay clean allowing good water flow through it and minimal chance of media clogging up with dirt.
If the filter is set up correctly and media is well protected by foams then it should last a good 6-10 years at high efficiency so will not need replacing for ages. A well known manufacturer recommends changing the biological filter media every 6 months but by that point it should just be getting fully mature and highly effective.
I can't believe the amount of harmful advice from companies out there as it causes filters to be ineffective and encourages problematic water conditions (to force the user into buying more products to rectify the situation which should never have developed?....)
Feel free to contact me any time on pondguru@btinternet.com
There are a few useful questions and answers about media and filtration here: filterpro.co.uk/qa-24-w.asp
+Pondguru Outdoors Thank you for the detailed response I have actually watched your videos a few times now and probably could have saved you a lot of typing. Today I received my Biohome Ultimate from Genesis Group International in Sydney, and yesterday I ordered some bacteria balls/foam from you which should hopefully arrive soon. I only started my tank last week so i'll add the media tonight and the balls/foam when they arrive,
I presume the standard media will have started to accumulate some bacteria so i'll put it in the bottom of the canister. Then we wait.....
Thanks again and if you are thinking of doing any more videos it would be great to hear about what solo fish work well in community tanks. I've started with some black tetras while the tank cycles, then I'm hoping for some cherry shrimp, Congo tetras and from there open to thoughts, suggestions, ideas
Cheers mate keep up the good work
+S miff Hopefully the balls will arrive soon - I have never had any held by customs in AU who can be very picky and I thought a large order was going to get stuck recently but it was held, examined then released so its all good. They are marked as polymer gel filter balls for aquarium use (inert) on the customs label.
As far as recommending fish goes I always used to say to people just come to the shop, see what is available and ask about compatibility, adult size, feeding etc. as there are so many variables.
All I'd say is to avoid having high pH fish (e.g. livebearers) in a low pH tank containing tetras, rasboras, loaches etc. and vice versa - always best to tailor conditions to suit all the fish in the tank.
Your fish store should have the knowledge to guide you on that but if they do not, find another store. Incompatible fish and wildly wrong water conditions are the main cause of problems in the tank.
Can you use the biohome media in an internal filter? Like the one shown in the beginning? I purchased mine with the tank, should I scrap it and buy an external filter?
Yes we do the media in a variety of sizes and shapes to suit different filters - check out some of the videos in the 'Pimp my Filter' series on my channel as there are a few different internal filters on there as well as a nation of external filters - I've got about 20+ more shot and ready to edit for that series too.
Hi
Can you please recommend a filter (cheap one please as I am on a very tight budget) which will take bio-home media, I am totally new (newbie alert) to tropical fish keeping an have bought a tank which has a 106L capacity.
I really like your videos, keep up the good work.....
cheers
That's an impossible task as there are so many filters available now. Best thing is just to trawl through ebay or amazon and look for a suitable design which would accommodate filter media. If your tank is 106 litres depending on the stock you may need a filter which treats 150 litres to be safe. If you have room for an external then they usually are the best designed but beware of Hang on Back filters as they rely on a cartridge system which regularly cost you to change out and offer little or no biological action.
Great video!.....I have 5 pounds of biohome ultimate in a 72 gallon...wish this was around 30 years ago! Thanks!
dear friend, as far as the mechanical filter is concerned (the sponge) should I rinse it with the tank water only when maintained? That's how I do it: since I entirely depend on the biological filter to keep the bacteria colonies and rinse them gently with the tank water, I clean my coarse sponge heavily with tap water and change the cotton pad to ensure that I will have a crystal clear water. Is what I am doing right? Please advise!
+Aboud Bakkour Sounds like you are maintaining regularly which is good to remove muck but you would be better cleaning the coarse sponge in water you have drained from your tank during maintenance. That way you will not kill off as much good bacteria on the sponge.
Fantastic Video! Lots of great information here and I've subscribed. You can never have too much knowledge when it comes to keeping fish in tanks :) Thank you so much and I look forward to spending lots of cappuccino breaks watching your videos and learning from you! A+++
I' glad you enjoy the videos as I love making them - thanks for watching.
Hi Richard, my 125 gal tank finally cycled I believe, took 3 months, I did the fishless cycle. The odd thing is I never showed any nitrite. I went from 4ppm ammonia to 0 ammonia 0 nitrite 5 nitrate. I then added more ammonia to get to 4 ppm, the next day I tested and had 0 ammonia 0 nitrite and 5 nitrate. Now I’m using your bio home ultimate in 2 large canister filters, is this uncommon not to see nitrite. I have recently added 25 small fish and the seem healthy. My ph is 7.5 tank temp is 83. Tank is heavily planted with co2 injected.
Sometimes the bacteria sets up so quickly that the ammonia and nitrite is barely above 0 for the whole cycling process and sometimes the nitrate never gets above 5 then drops to 0 when the full cycle is achieved but it really depends on how much media is used, how much ammonia is used and if there are other external factors like CO2 or liquid carbon (like is found in some in some plant, e.g. flourish excel) enhancing the bacteria development. If it was 4ppm ammonia one day and 0 the next it sounds like it was being processed very fast so it's all good and the nitrate must have been processed in a similar way.
Good stuff.
Pondguru, I'm trying to figure out how to filter my water in a small, but growing, aquaponics system. I want safe water for the fish, but also feed my crops. I understand I need to mechanically remove the solids (muck) & biologically convert the ammonia & nitrites. The plants are suppose to utilize the nitrates (would low to zero nitrates reduce plant growth?). I have a few available stacked canister filter/pumps that are leftover from past aquariums. Suggested configurations? Canister with bio media vs. intank moving bio filter or both? Sintered glass vs. plastic media? Thanks for the videos.
+Hans Swift Plastic media produces a nation of nitrate but often too much for the fish unless you do large water changes. The sintered glass / pumice can reduce the nitrate down to zero but that does not seem to affect the plants since the nitrate is converted into soluble nitrogen which is easily used by the plants. Obviously that last way is better for the fish (you will get better growth) and requires much less water changes but it is more expensive to set up the filter with good media which will naturally reduce nitrates and produce soluble nitrogen.
Hope that makes sense.
Thank you. Sintered glass is the way too go, and is not beyond my budget.
I ordered some Eheim sintered glass media (balls).
Do you consider the canister filters anerobic? If so, would I need to include an additional aerobic filter?
Which setup is recommended after I perform a good mechanical filtration?
Canister (I have on hand)
Moving filter
Wet/dry trickle filter
+Hans Swift All filters will be quite an aerated environment due to water being pumped through them and it is really down to the media to offer a suitable environment for anaerobic bacteria. The sintered glass balls are OK and will offer a limited home for anaerobic bacteria but the internal structure isn't ideal - way better than ceramic rings or any plastic media though.
I would just go with a canister feeding up to a wet / dry trickle filter as that would offer the best chance of good filtration.
I have just recently purchased a new filter.. Do I need to place some of the sponge from the old one I've removed into the new one to maintain fish bacteria?,, and I have another filter in my tank that's been in my tank long enough to have established a good bacteria level? What's your advice?
Run both filters for 3-4 weeks then remove the old one. That should give the new one time to set up with enough bacteria to cope with the bio load.