I just saw this video last week. I didn't expect to be installing base at that time. I'm glad I saw this video when I did; I just used the hybrid cope today. Worked really well! Thanks!
I discovered this method in an old mansion where all the trim was handsawn. It first appeared to me on the interior window stops. It saved me a lot of coping time installing the new trim. Glad you showed it. Keep 'em coming!
Ron you just blew my mind with this video. This is the difference between a pro like you and a weekend warrior like myself. Well done & thanks for sharing!!
I’ve seen this type of mitre loads of times when taking out old trim from Victorian housing here in the uk, hard to tell how it’s fared over 150 years when it’s got 10mm of paint on it but those old timers knew what they were doing!
inside miters suck! They always open. The wall moves, the wood shrinks, it's new growth trim not old timber so it will shrink for sure every time. Well done Ron. I always cope all my inside corners. No call backs is right.
Hay Ron I have been doing skirting exactly this way my whole career just one difference I cope that little mitred bit so that it too cuts into the straight cut skirting. I was glad to have an old teacher in my college it was his last year before retirement. I was always ahead in the practical so he always gave me more tricks and knowledge than the rest and I was an eager learner. It was quite a feeling watching someone else do the very same as I do. I love watching your shows and most of all I have loved building versions of my own of your benches. Just try cutting that small piece next time with a back mitre like the straight bit and see how nicely it will look invisible the time is also not that much.
It’s called a jack-cope. Works very well for base that has a dado profile. The cope can become flimsy and break off when trying to cut the mating piece for the dado, this solves it. In my experience the extra step and set up isn’t worth the result in base profiles 5inch or less and with some walls so out of square a true cope/ pass through joint will stand up just fine.
Hello. Nice video demonstration. I am surprised that it even had to be shown. I have been coping like this since the late 1970's. But then wasn't everyone? I guess not. I have not used a coping saw ever since then. When you work by yourself and every piece put in depends on your skill set, you learn very fast how to do things more quickly buy this method has been around for a long time. Fine tune with screws on outside corners as well. Very easy to do and your work is first class. I guess I should watch how I use the word "cope." You can even cut it if the cope is out of square. That cut, with screws placed in the corners will adjust your coped pieces perfectly and they will not move when nailed. Also very little messing around with installing varnish grade and prefinished hardwood. It gets a little harder with wider pieces in quarter sawn white oak. That I will admit.
I have a 6 part crown coping series showing how I cope with a jig saw and Collins coping foots. This was to show a method for mostly straight or flat trim that is the easiest requiring even fewer tools.
Wonderful video. Again. Looks like the room was painted before you installed the trim and perhaps even the trim was pre-painted. I know you have a sprayer. Hand painting the trim is more difficult than hand rolling the walls. Your next step will be to caulk the seams and putty or spackle and sand the nail holes. Prime the spackle. This probably will put caulk up the wall requiring wall touch up before finish painting the base. From an ease of painting point of view, I suggest placing the trim on unpainted walls. If you want to control dust, then prime the walls first, then install the trim. That way you can do all the trim first, over-spraying onto the walls. Mask off the trim and now you can spray the ceiling and cut and roll the walls. All painting and spraying will be in the subject room. Easy. Trick. I have even placed masking paper under the base at installation. Now you can caulk the bottom of the base to the paper and carefully cut the painted caulk when finished. This paper idea may be a wonderful topic for a future video. It will slide with the floor and cover any gaps and bows under the base. It also keeps from painting the floor at any gaps and you gotta mask under the base anyway. Your carpentry skills are extraordinary. So too your video and presentations! Thank you.
Hey Ron, Love you work mate! Just awesome Can you tell what you used on your Kapex, the yellow cutting receiver part? I am often cutting small wedges and lose them down in the original festool component Thanks bud J
Its cool its better than a miter it avoids a coping saw but the only negative is that it could open at the top if the corner isnt a true 45 corner the flat will be tight because it s coped but the top being mitered instead of coped leaves room but in a production setting definitely faster and over all better than ppl who just miter definitely cool way of doing it
Ron… I want to replace the interior doors in my 40 year old house. At first I thought I would just do the slabs, but think the door trim won’t match. So, if I order pre hung doors and trim them out, does that mean should re trim the whole room (base moulding) so there’s not a new door and old room trim? Thanks for sharing your technique.
It depends on the cohesiveness of the old and new. You can find new casing that matches the old. Either look around on line for pictures of similar situations or hire an interior designer. What I wouldn't do is just mix and match without a plan as that will always result in that famous "Home Depot" look. You know the one where they bought what was on sale at the time in HD.
@@TheSmartWoodshop thanks Ron, good advice. I can find the same trim profile, it’s just that in my mind the new door trim that has clean lines doesn’t really match the older trim that’s been dinged and had layers of paint on it. Not sure if you’ve encountered that or you used to just do new construction.
It is a Skiller. I did a detailed video on it years ago and then the brand stopped importing to the U.S. Here is a video on my current vest: th-cam.com/video/hum0Z7Q8Qaw/w-d-xo.html Link to Atlas46 Vest: bit.ly/3AMej2P
@@TheSmartWoodshop Thank you. I really liked this crown video, the jigs and how much this whole thing really made sense. As a person that has avoided crown, this series makes me feel like it’s not this Goliath that I thought it was. I did get a bit lost with the measurements with the room and double copes, but I need to let that sink in more. I just wanted to say your video’s make me feel resourceful and supported.
Why don't you place one end of that piece of wood on the base and the other end on the floor and lean your knee on it to get the base flush with the floor?
Ron - When you measure the length of your moulding pieces, how do you determine how much to add to ensure the piece will bow out slightly? Do you add more to a longer piece? What is your rule of thumb so you don’t end up with too much bow?
I just saw this video last week. I didn't expect to be installing base at that time. I'm glad I saw this video when I did; I just used the hybrid cope today. Worked really well! Thanks!
Glad it helped
I discovered this method in an old mansion where all the trim was handsawn. It first appeared to me on the interior window stops. It saved me a lot of coping time installing the new trim. Glad you showed it. Keep 'em coming!
You bet!
Hybrid cope?!? This is the method I need to still get the cope integrity without the full cope time wasted on production work.
Great video!
Can someone explain this more?
Ron you just blew my mind with this video. This is the difference between a pro like you and a weekend warrior like myself. Well done & thanks for sharing!!
Glad to help
That's a great tip, and a huge time saver. I've always coped the whole thing. Can't wait to try it. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful!
The hybrid cope was a powerful tip. Awesome! The notepad tip. Wow! An ah-ha moment. Thanks for the details 😊
😎🤙
I have been doing trim work for decades, and I have never seen this. Great technique. I will be using that this week.
True craftsman at work. Only ever saw this technique done by you. So take credit for it.
Thanks😎
That notepad L>R trick was so…obvious. Mind blown. Thanks for passing along the tricks of the trade to us plebs!
General rule is to keep it simple😎🤙
I hope you write a finish carpentry book someday Ron!
Glad we have TH-cam until then!
Thanks so much, I’ve learned so much from your videos!
Thank you, Bob😎🤙
Never seen that done before in my 25 years me and my guys are going to try that stuff on Thursday for a house we have to finish up thanks for the tips
😎🤙
Beautiful work! Glad to see you use real wood base and not MDF.
😎🤙
Great tip, can't wait to try it, thank you.
Have fun!
More tips from the master! Thx Ron!
😎🤙
Love the HC. Thank you for sharing
I’ve seen this type of mitre loads of times when taking out old trim from Victorian housing here in the uk, hard to tell how it’s fared over 150 years when it’s got 10mm of paint on it but those old timers knew what they were doing!
😎👍
Damn y'all had Victoria queens Anne houses too.
GREAT INSIGHTS RON....TRUE CRAFTSMEN....
Thanks😎
Love the hc tip and will give it a try.
Have fun!
Great stuff, Ron.
Thank you kindly
Great stuff. Thank you!
inside miters suck! They always open. The wall moves, the wood shrinks, it's new growth trim not old timber so it will shrink for sure every time. Well done Ron. I always cope all my inside corners. No call backs is right.
Ron, I loved this video! How does this work with crown molding, I would love to see a demonstration. Thanks!
I have a 6 part series "Crown Molding is so easy" th-cam.com/users/shortsGfC3waLx4Fs
Hay Ron I have been doing skirting exactly this way my whole career just one difference I cope that little mitred bit so that it too cuts into the straight cut skirting. I was glad to have an old teacher in my college it was his last year before retirement. I was always ahead in the practical so he always gave me more tricks and knowledge than the rest and I was an eager learner. It was quite a feeling watching someone else do the very same as I do. I love watching your shows and most of all I have loved building versions of my own of your benches. Just try cutting that small piece next time with a back mitre like the straight bit and see how nicely it will look invisible the time is also not that much.
😎🤙
It’s called a jack-cope. Works very well for base that has a dado profile. The cope can become flimsy and break off when trying to cut the mating piece for the dado, this solves it. In my experience the extra step and set up isn’t worth the result in base profiles 5inch or less and with some walls so out of square a true cope/ pass through joint will stand up just fine.
Thanks Matt😎🤙
Hello.
Nice video demonstration. I am surprised that it even had to be shown. I have been coping like this since the late 1970's. But then wasn't everyone? I guess not. I have not used a coping saw ever since then. When you work by yourself and every piece put in depends on your skill set, you learn very fast how to do things more quickly buy this method has been around for a long time. Fine tune with screws on outside corners as well. Very easy to do and your work is first class. I guess I should watch how I use the word "cope."
You can even cut it if the cope is out of square. That cut, with screws placed in the corners will adjust your coped pieces perfectly and they will not move when nailed.
Also very little messing around with installing varnish grade and prefinished hardwood. It gets a little harder with wider pieces in quarter sawn white oak. That I will admit.
I have a 6 part crown coping series showing how I cope with a jig saw and Collins coping foots. This was to show a method for mostly straight or flat trim that is the easiest requiring even fewer tools.
Look forward to seeing it. I would like to see how you do it. Sounds interesting and I will keep an eye out for it. Continue your great work videos.
@@gizmobently I posted the 6 video series on installing crown molding like a pro back in 2015. th-cam.com/play/PLB1ATCukiUGQcqbiVUgeeBruL6YT9jEOz.html
Wonderful video. Again. Looks like the room was painted before you installed the trim and perhaps even the trim was pre-painted. I know you have a sprayer. Hand painting the trim is more difficult than hand rolling the walls. Your next step will be to caulk the seams and putty or spackle and sand the nail holes. Prime the spackle. This probably will put caulk up the wall requiring wall touch up before finish painting the base. From an ease of painting point of view, I suggest placing the trim on unpainted walls. If you want to control dust, then prime the walls first, then install the trim. That way you can do all the trim first, over-spraying onto the walls. Mask off the trim and now you can spray the ceiling and cut and roll the walls. All painting and spraying will be in the subject room. Easy.
Trick. I have even placed masking paper under the base at installation. Now you can caulk the bottom of the base to the paper and carefully cut the painted caulk when finished. This paper idea may be a wonderful topic for a future video. It will slide with the floor and cover any gaps and bows under the base. It also keeps from painting the floor at any gaps and you gotta mask under the base anyway. Your carpentry skills are extraordinary. So too your video and presentations! Thank you.
😎🤙
"Use caulk if you're no Ron Paulk" - Me
No kneepads, I’m impressed!
My knees aren't 😎
@@TheSmartWoodshop depressed
Hey Ron,
Love you work mate! Just awesome
Can you tell what you used on your Kapex, the yellow cutting receiver part? I am often cutting small wedges and lose them down in the original festool component
Thanks bud
J
Awesome...thanks Ron!
Its cool its better than a miter it avoids a coping saw but the only negative is that it could open at the top if the corner isnt a true 45 corner the flat will be tight because it s coped but the top being mitered instead of coped leaves room but in a production setting definitely faster and over all better than ppl who just miter definitely cool way of doing it
😎😎🤙
Ron… I want to replace the interior doors in my 40 year old house. At first I thought I would just do the slabs, but think the door trim won’t match. So, if I order pre hung doors and trim them out, does that mean should re trim the whole room (base moulding) so there’s not a new door and old room trim? Thanks for sharing your technique.
It depends on the cohesiveness of the old and new. You can find new casing that matches the old. Either look around on line for pictures of similar situations or hire an interior designer. What I wouldn't do is just mix and match without a plan as that will always result in that famous "Home Depot" look. You know the one where they bought what was on sale at the time in HD.
@@TheSmartWoodshop thanks Ron, good advice. I can find the same trim profile, it’s just that in my mind the new door trim that has clean lines doesn’t really match the older trim that’s been dinged and had layers of paint on it. Not sure if you’ve encountered that or you used to just do new construction.
Flip flops?
Don't forget the safety glasses!😀
🙃
Tidy work as expected. The irony is that we call that a jack mitre!
Interesting technique. What would you say the advantage is over the traditional cope for base?
All of the advantages of a cope, but faster.
Like the technique but I'll stick with my copes 🙂
Just an option to speed things up a tiny bit. The main thing it to cope and not miter.
Ron,
In your coping series, what brand black vest are you wearing?
It is a Skiller. I did a detailed video on it years ago and then the brand stopped importing to the U.S. Here is a video on my current vest: th-cam.com/video/hum0Z7Q8Qaw/w-d-xo.html
Link to Atlas46 Vest: bit.ly/3AMej2P
@@TheSmartWoodshop
Thank you. I really liked this crown video, the jigs and how much this whole thing really made sense. As a person that has avoided crown, this series makes me feel like it’s not this Goliath that I thought it was.
I did get a bit lost with the measurements with the room and double copes, but I need to let that sink in more.
I just wanted to say your video’s make me feel resourceful and supported.
Why don't you place one end of that piece of wood on the base and the other end on the floor and lean your knee on it to get the base flush with the floor?
Not going to bench that base without a hydraulic press. I caulked all of the base to the floors so any gaps were filled and are now invisible. 😎🤙
How does that caulk now work with the movement of the floor?
Smart man. He uses hitachi nailers. Woohoo.
Ron - When you measure the length of your moulding pieces, how do you determine how much to add to ensure the piece will bow out slightly? Do you add more to a longer piece? What is your rule of thumb so you don’t end up with too much bow?
A little longer😎. It really is just feel, but about 1/16" for a 16'.
@@TheSmartWoodshop 1
Can you go into more detail about this cope? Your explanation was hard to follow.
I will make a detailed video next time I am installing base.
@@TheSmartWoodshop awesome thank you.