Hey Guys. This is a plain and straight to the point short. This is the STEEL Version. I spend most of my time on designing different versions without steel some with crude oil and even one version without steel and without another liquid but water. But to be honest they all look the same :D so I at least wanted to show how to build the regular steel aquatuner and steam turbine version. :) Wish you all the best!
@@nidde Ahh sorry my bad. I didn not put a text box there. I see now how that is confusing. Yeah you are right. It was to showcase the cooling capability for people who don't know how to cool down their oxygen or other gases.
Tried & true :) I would recommend to always add a thin layer of oil , petroleum or naphtha on the bottom to avoid the slow water deletion bug (unless that has been fixed in Spaced Out).
Yes thats true. I sometimes forget about that bug because it is very slow and situational. They probably haven't fixed it. Isn't that the same mechanic that allows the "dripping small amounts of liquid gas pump"? That would be sad for your nice Polluted water oxygen system. Also I just rediscovered a old bug that I forgotten about. Now you can instantly teleport liquids from the neuteonium bedrock all the way to space, so I guess Klei sometimes looks away from the bugs :D. Not to talk about the newly food storage system-bug in the test branch.
@@Luma_plays The heat deletion bug has been fixed but there are some other bugs affecting them. You can check it out on this forum post forums.kleientertainment.com/forums/topic/119874-steam-turbine-setups-post-temp-swap-bug-fix/?tab=comments#comment-1351812
Biggest goof i did when doing setups for the lolz in sandbox: Set a Poluted Water boiler (Started in one of those asteroids you are stuck in marshy start biome) Set 6 TA in said Boiler. Use Supercoolant as the fluid for the loop. Start it. Super coolant loop is also to cooldown the STs being used to draw the now clean, hot water. SC gets so cold it begins to FREEZE the gases around the STs. Forgets to notice that for two cycles. TA stop because the SC has reached its minimum temperarure. Entire boiler stops working because the STs are in Vacuum, their immediate area is too cold so no gases enter before freezing, and the hot water is instead dissipating heat into the living area because there's too little gas near the boiler block. Here's the lesson, only use two TA at most for anything that isn't DELIBERATE CREATION OF LIQUI O2 or Hydrogen
Yes. Not an optimal build. But for someone who wants to know how to build their first Aquatuner setup hopefully helpful. But you are right. I could have solved that differently. :/
You are right. Meanwhile i learned that :). I also used the bridge transfer for a few advanced things luke a power positive cold steam vent tamer. But when i made the cideo i always forgot the bridges..
Thank you! :) I want to post my steel and crude oil free Version too. Not sure how to make the video different yet. You only need plastic from Glossy Dreckos and Refined metal from the rock crusher. What do you mean by early to mid stage setups. I would like to incorporate some of those, but i am not sure what could be understood as such. :)
Still trying to figure out how this works like i could just follow the vid, but i wanna understand how it works so i can build my own version incase i wanna try something different. Im new to water cooling
The Aquatuner (short: AT) can lower the temperature of any liquid pumped through by 14°C each time that liquid blob passes by. That heat energy is then transfered to the AT building itself. Cooling down the liquid that passes through it while getting hot itself meana you can cool the base with the liquid loop. But the AT will burn down quickly. So you need to cool the AT. How to do that? Well either submerge it in a pool of water that slowly gets hotter and hotter or put it in an insulated room with water. Close the room. put a steamturbine (ST) on top. AT cooks the water turns it to steam. ST extracts heat from steam and generates electic power from that. Condensing the steam back to water which can be dropped in tjmhe AT room. The temperature a AT can withstand is depending on the material it is made of. Check the properties tab in game for that. The ST also gets hot and stops working if it is at 100°C or over. so you need to include that in the cooling loop as well. The liquid in the cooling loop can also be overcooled so that it freezes in the pipes breaking the pipes themselves. Thats why we use a liquid pipe temperature sensor to detect the liquids temperature and deactivate the AT if the liquid is already cold enough. (Most of the time that is freeze point plus 14°C)
@@Luma_plays does the water that you used to cool off the AT slowly runs out every time it goes through the steam generator and back into the small pool? Like do i have to renew the water for AT every few cycles? Or is there 100% no loss when it goes through the steam generator?
@@McClaps The water In the room WITH the AT turns to steam gets sucked up at a rate of 0.4kg per second per ST port (2kg/s over all) condensed and piped from the ST again. Where you pipe and drop it is up to you. So if you don't want any loss pipe it back to the room :)
@@Luma_plays awesome (: Thanks for explaining cause i haven't made any plastic yet since the day i got the game game so i couldn't really test it out. Will try ur design out once i do get some steel
Question. Where do I need to build all of these buildings at. My industrial area is getting closer to 160 deg. Would just building most of this stuff in space be more beneficial?
A common build tactic is building the whole industrial are INSIDE of the steam room. make it big use lots of tempshiftplates heat it up and have lots of steam turbines on top. the steam turbines are cooled the rest is made from steel and can withstand those 125 to 200 °C edit: second strategy would be building 1 or 2 strong cooling loops and cooling everything right away so nothing gets that hot in the first place edit edit: building in space requires a background and some transfer medium for the heat like a liquid gas or the new conductor pannel
@@Luma_plays thank you for the info. I’ll look up the first Rec you said. I’m in the mid game and the hump to get over it into the late game is quite large. Trying to farm eggshells is a interesting problem to tackle.
You can change a few things but the most important change would be: Either make the steam room higher when using a tempshiftplate. A TSP has an area of effect of 3x3 so it will press heat into the walls if the walls are in that are. So place the TSP in a way that the area of effect doesn't overlap with walls. Another important thing that i did correct here but missed somewhere else is: All bridges act the same as tempshiftplates. They have an area of effect of 1x3 so if you place a single badly placed bridge you will transfer the heat from the inside of the steam room to the outside. This should be avoided at all times. Most of the rest is up to personal preference. Like dipping the Steamturbine in a thin layer of liquid for better heat transfer from the coolant, making it act as a buffer. Or making the steam room acessible if wanted so you can tune up the building (as one person mentioned), i just normally never do this. Classic Aquatuner and Steamturbine setups are mostly the same. And keep in mind: ->the orientation of the AT you csn rotate it by pressing "o" which i did here. The sensor is always closest to the AT input -> that the metal part to the side is just a representation of your whole base. You can expand your liquid loop so that it covers a large area.
I think my reasoning at that time was: One was enough for it to work. 2 would also be good but they are expensive (higher material cost). I also know that the tempshiftplate injects heat into the wall but this was the safest method I could show where I think most people get it to run correctly.
I tried that setuo but everytime i start it the insulated pipe breaks.it breaks at the aquacooler output. How do i prevent this??(i build it out of ceramic)
Hey hey, yeah the first AT setup is tricky. There are even some slight flaws (like the 2 tile high room with the tempshiftplate having an effect area of 3x3) in this setup but it will teach the fundamentals and should work fine. Here are some Points that might be the reason: Did you see that i rotated the Aquatuner= So the green and white switched places. Press "o" on the keyboard to do that. The reasons for breaking is liquid overcooling until it turns to ice. So an aggregat state change from liquid to solid. This will not happen if set up correctly. Issues could be: -AT (Aquatuner) oriented the wrong way -Liquid loop overfilled so the pipe can't empty quickly enough or is blocked -wrong setting in the sensor for the type of liquid you are using -changed piping so the pipe priorities wrongfully preferring the input not output. -automation cable not connected to AT Hope one of those helped you out :)
That is good if you know what you are doing. But most people that need help with this would just create a layer of polluted Oxygen in their steam chamber that way. Which is why I didn't show it.
Any ideas on why a 2 aquatuner setup creates Ice, randomly? I have the setup with normal water but temps above 5°c, aka i set the temp of the sensor to 18°C. Somehow it randomly creates Ice right as it emerges from the second Aquatuner, and breaks the pipe.
Yes depending on how you piped them together that was to be expected: each aquatuner substracts 14°C of the liquid that goes through it. It sounds like you don't have 1 liquid pipe thermo sensor per aquatuner but just 1 over all. the single sensor is set to 18°C. So if water comes in at 19°C then it will get cooled -28°C creating ice breaking the pipes. If you check the temperature at each aquatuner then this shouldn't happen, provided the piping is correct.
Thank you for taking the time to answer, while it might be the most obvious situation, it definitely isn't. Both tuners have sensors, there is also a distance between them (3 tiles), the pipes are in the walls, with only enough piping to check for temp, right before the tuner entrance, the first tuner is set to above 15C and second to above 18C, just cuz I'm trying to prevent freezing, but it does it randomly, all the same. It's beyond silly, and annoying, especially since it's my main cooling loop for the glossy drecko feeder (mealwood farm tiles), irrigating the bristle blossom/grubgrub farm, and finally infinite storage.
@@TheKueiJin this may sound dumb but have you try putting a liquid reservoir to average out the temp along the pipeline. It may not fix the problem but it makes troubleshooting much easier.(because you can read the temp more accurately)
@@TheKueiJin well usually i dont put a reservoir for a loop I won't expand lmao. so the reservoir should make the packet entering the first AT with constant temp. Then is your overflow working properly because if the sensor is next to the AT and temp constant only thing that can make the wrong packet enter is overflow. Did you put the double bridge to make it flow properly. Also is there any shut-off because it can mess with your loop sometimes. But imo this seems more like the overflow skipped 1 packet then the wrong one enters.(this happens once in many cycles so even if you stare at it for like 3 cycles you may not even sees it.)
I cannot show a complete cooling loop with the limited space so i cut the loop short and had it end in the metal tiles. Now you have a complete cooling loop with which you can cool whatever you want. You could either extend the loop through out your base. Or have a second temperature controlled liquid loop that goes through your base independend of the initial cooling loop. OR in case of the video cool some external gas. I just placed the gas with the pump inside to visualize that. I understand that might be hard to grasp at first but i didn't know how to visualize it better at that time.
2 questions 1.- What is the metal and pulluted water things at the left for? Or how does it work? 2.- What material are the plates (the things you put on the walls, don't know their name)? And does it matter?
The metal thing and liquid to the left symbolyzes what you can or want to cool. that can bee a giant loop of water going through your base or it can be a single liquid pool. The tempshiftplates (the thing i put behind) are foe heat transfer and buffering heat. makes a system more stable. You could also add more liquid. They are not necessary in a regular setup (and i made a mistake by putting it in a 2 tile high room; a tempshift plate has a size of 1 but affect all 8 tiles surrounding it as well. Transferring the heat between them AND even pressing the heat into insulation tiles which is not super relevant but not optimal ). in a 2 tile high steam room setup I would leave them be. In a 3 tile high setup they don't hurt. Edit: yes the material of everything matters. To wich degree is dependent on the setup. Here as mentioned the tempshift plate is optional, hence the material as well.
The 2 Liquid bridges? They make it harder to overfill the loop. Preventing the liquid loop from stagnation in some cases. Only relevant for the filling process. But doesn't hurt
Sorry, but I dont understand the purpose of this aquatuner. Is this just to show how to properly set up one, or is there something more about this specific setup that Im missing?
Just to show the beginner players one version to set it up. Not my best video in terms of clarity. Today i would make it different. Should probably update it
There is so much wrong with this.. pipes should immediately be led out of the steam box, whether they're insulated or not, along with all sensors except a temp sensor.. tempshift plates should never spread heat to insulated tiles, which also means your steam box is too small; 2-block is fine without temp plate, but 3-block high is far better.. turbine should be dupe-accessible with a power control station integrated for a power plant room so the turbine gives more output.. no need for a cooling box at all if it's a cooling loop and not just heat deletion.. only one bridge is necessary to keep loop running, and no such thing as overfilling when your pipes are easily accessible for quick plumbing or adding liquid.. the gas cooling chamber is ridiculous considering the cooling loop should have many places to cool on its path, which will include radiant liquid pipe in line with whatever radiant gas lines you want to cool. It's not a single cooling system, and runs FAR better with an array of heat to disperse throughout your base. This build is such a waste, and no new player should learn from this. I have more criticism, but that's enough aggravation.
You are right and I agree with most points. This is a old build after this i learned alot more. I still would like to add some points: You do not need an acessible steam turbine. In alot of planets the tune up mechanism is a waste of recources. It is nice to have and easy to add later on when you need it, but not necessary. The gas cooling on the side is not part of the build it symbilizes something that needs cooling by the main cooling loop. So yes 1 loop is better. This is just the way i showed it in the limited space i had for the short. There are many reasons for more bridges like lad reduction and heat transfer though i messed up in this video and transfered some heat outside the insulated room which was an overlook on my side. You definitely can overfill a loop and it halts and stops rotating. Having a duplicant be a plumber requires skill points and dupe action that you can avoid if you prepare for that befoee hand so i would tey to avoid those extra steps afterwards or the wasted skill points. All in all i like the feedback cause i also look at this with critical eyes after years of playing. The steam room needs to be bigger so (if used with tempshiftplates cause they have a 3x3 effect area), the bridges should never cross the wall from cold to hot etc.) Some of the critique points are up to preference though: like the power station and how to fill the loop.
@@Luma_plays Well, there's no doubt you're passionate and caring about your channel with an excellent attitude towards negativity.. As usual, it was a certain time of day when I commented and now I sort of regret it, but I won't delete it since you went to so much trouble to answer as non-offensively as possible. The power plant with a good cooling loop and AT/ST setup can generate just enough power to be self-sufficient. Even with only one aquatuner and turbine. Of course, you'll always want your backup generator on automation just in case. Even if you don't need to save resources, it's such a great feeling to get something working to that level of perfection.. There are a lot of opinionated ideas, things work different ways for different applications, and multiple opinions can work just as well in their own ways. I appreciate the reply being so understanding and accepting of my negativity.. maybe it will help in some way. Happy trails..
Hi Balazs. Temperatures over 200°C are just overheating your Steam Turbine quicker. The steam turbine can produce 850 watts at 200°C everything above that only directly heats up the turbine unnecessarily (if you don't block some ports). And the setup shown isn't producing energy: it is for cooling. the steam turbine is helpful in regaining a little bit of the energy needed to use the system.
@@Balazs1102_ Overall i think not. It is a question of consistency. Do you want the steam turbine to run at 200 watts for 4 seconds or at 800 watts for 1 second? do you want to get energy back in form of a short spike of a lot of energy or a small amount of energy over a longer time? Same goes for a heat buffer in form of more water.
I have a suggestion: If you have these text boxes means you have some editing software so next time please add the grid. It is so unclear what length what is and replicating it from the video is literal torment
Hey, hey. Understandable. I have added reference points in the newer videos (different tiles in the bottom) for now in this video after a few seconds you can see the building grid in the background. Or you can use the buildings as reference size. they are always the same. And yes this is obviously edited even without the text boxes :D. But I don't see how that software helps me with the grid?
If you mean the steam turbine output water then: yes that is possible IF your steam never goes above 135°C. Which it will if you cool your base with it. So i wouldn't suggest doing that for a base cooling loop. But when you only cool a small area it should be fine
@@sam11182 Ah those are short for Aquatuner (AT) and Steamturbin (ST) since most people don't want to wrtite those :D. So the hydrogen part could be synonymous for coouling your oxygen supply or another liquid loop that leads to your base etc.
@@Luma_playsI think I saw someone add water on the bottom and on top of that polluted water so u don't have to fill all with a lot of water, not sure if polluted water turns into steam tho
@@TZ57 That is a good idea to save liquid. and keep the amount smaller. i would still use at least 3kg per tile. Polluted water when cooked turns into clean water (which turns into steam) and dirt. The issue qith polluted water for beginners is if they place it badly or in the wrong order you can have it off gas to polluted oxygen. and you don't want any other gases in your steam room. Also some people would be annoyed by the remaining dirt. But overall yes that is a good method if you know what you are doing. Hence i left it out for the beginner version. Hope that explanation helped
Hey Guys. This is a plain and straight to the point short. This is the STEEL Version.
I spend most of my time on designing different versions without steel some with crude oil
and even one version without steel and without another liquid but water.
But to be honest they all look the same :D so I at least wanted to show how to build the regular steel aquatuner and steam turbine version. :)
Wish you all the best!
I'm confused, what was the hydrogen pump for? Or was that just to demonstrate the cold-box?
@@nidde Ahh sorry my bad. I didn not put a text box there. I see now how that is confusing.
Yeah you are right. It was to showcase the cooling capability for people who don't know how to cool down their oxygen or other gases.
How much water are you putting there in the aquatuner room
@@adminanar I guess it was just one bottle so 200kg of water.
Depending on what you want to archieve you can vary that.
@@Luma_playswould you do this differently with the conduction panel?
I literally just got to the point in my base where I needed this thanks for the video
Tried & true :) I would recommend to always add a thin layer of oil , petroleum or naphtha on the bottom to avoid the slow water deletion bug (unless that has been fixed in Spaced Out).
Yes thats true. I sometimes forget about that bug because it is very slow and situational. They probably haven't fixed it. Isn't that the same mechanic that allows the "dripping small amounts of liquid gas pump"? That would be sad for your nice Polluted water oxygen system. Also I just rediscovered a old bug that I forgotten about. Now you can instantly teleport liquids from the neuteonium bedrock all the way to space, so I guess Klei sometimes looks away from the bugs :D. Not to talk about the newly food storage system-bug in the test branch.
@@Luma_plays The heat deletion bug has been fixed but there are some other bugs affecting them. You can check it out on this forum post forums.kleientertainment.com/forums/topic/119874-steam-turbine-setups-post-temp-swap-bug-fix/?tab=comments#comment-1351812
@@alexgr0111 This game ...
Im fairly sure if that happens, its pretty easy to remedy by adding more water to the systen periodically when the water gets low
Okay, building then deconstructing the btiles was a genius way to remove the gases from inside.. I'm gonna have to utilize that more often
Pouring another liquild on bottom (polluted/salted water or oil) is more convenient way to remove gases from boiler.
i tend to use this for my permanent refrigerator but i just string pipes around my base for general cooling
Nice tutorial just uno tip if you put in the 'steam' room regular pipes the fluid is going to cool the room so just use some insulated pipes
Biggest goof i did when doing setups for the lolz in sandbox:
Set a Poluted Water boiler (Started in one of those asteroids you are stuck in marshy start biome)
Set 6 TA in said Boiler.
Use Supercoolant as the fluid for the loop.
Start it.
Super coolant loop is also to cooldown the STs being used to draw the now clean, hot water.
SC gets so cold it begins to FREEZE the gases around the STs.
Forgets to notice that for two cycles.
TA stop because the SC has reached its minimum temperarure.
Entire boiler stops working because the STs are in Vacuum, their immediate area is too cold so no gases enter before freezing, and the hot water is instead dissipating heat into the living area because there's too little gas near the boiler block.
Here's the lesson, only use two TA at most for anything that isn't DELIBERATE CREATION OF LIQUI O2 or Hydrogen
Your tempshift plate is injecting heat into the steam turbine
Yes. Not an optimal build. But for someone who wants to know how to build their first Aquatuner setup hopefully helpful. But you are right. I could have solved that differently. :/
Don't put liquid bridge in the steam room . U should put it inside the insulation tiles to prevent heat lost
You are right. Meanwhile i learned that :). I also used the bridge transfer for a few advanced things luke a power positive cold steam vent tamer. But when i made the cideo i always forgot the bridges..
Could you explain the physics behind the double liquid bridge in the aquatuner loop? Why doesn't it loop back with just one bridge?
The double liquid bridge acts as a buffer for 2 water pockets. nothing more. helps with the flow and can prevent overfilling of the loop. :)
@@Luma_plays thanks! I've been noticing it's incredibly hard to loop a packet back into the aquatuner properly, when you have too much piping
Great Video ! can you make more early /mid stage setup for some basic things i would love to lern
Thank you! :) I want to post my steel and crude oil free Version too. Not sure how to make the video different yet. You only need plastic from Glossy Dreckos and Refined metal from the rock crusher.
What do you mean by early to mid stage setups. I would like to incorporate some of those, but i am not sure what could be understood as such. :)
Still trying to figure out how this works
like i could just follow the vid, but i wanna understand how it works so i can build my own version incase i wanna try something different.
Im new to water cooling
The Aquatuner (short: AT) can lower the temperature of any liquid pumped through by 14°C each time that liquid blob passes by. That heat energy is then transfered to the AT building itself.
Cooling down the liquid that passes through it while getting hot itself meana you can cool the base with the liquid loop. But the AT will burn down quickly. So you need to cool the AT. How to do that? Well either submerge it in a pool of water that slowly gets hotter and hotter or put it in an insulated room with water. Close the room. put a steamturbine (ST) on top.
AT cooks the water turns it to steam. ST extracts heat from steam and generates electic power from that. Condensing the steam back to water which can be dropped in tjmhe AT room. The temperature a AT can withstand is depending on the material it is made of. Check the properties tab in game for that.
The ST also gets hot and stops working if it is at 100°C or over. so you need to include that in the cooling loop as well.
The liquid in the cooling loop can also be overcooled so that it freezes in the pipes breaking the pipes themselves.
Thats why we use a liquid pipe temperature sensor to detect the liquids temperature and deactivate the AT if the liquid is already cold enough.
(Most of the time that is freeze point plus 14°C)
@@Luma_plays does the water that you used to cool off the AT slowly runs out every time it goes through the steam generator and back into the small pool?
Like do i have to renew the water for AT every few cycles? Or is there 100% no loss when it goes through the steam generator?
@@McClaps no
@@McClaps The water In the room WITH the AT turns to steam gets sucked up at a rate of 0.4kg per second per ST port (2kg/s over all) condensed and piped from the ST again. Where you pipe and drop it is up to you. So if you don't want any loss pipe it back to the room :)
@@Luma_plays awesome (:
Thanks for explaining cause i haven't made any plastic yet since the day i got the game game so i couldn't really test it out. Will try ur design out once i do get some steel
Question. Where do I need to build all of these buildings at. My industrial area is getting closer to 160 deg. Would just building most of this stuff in space be more beneficial?
A common build tactic is building the whole industrial are INSIDE of the steam room. make it big use lots of tempshiftplates heat it up and have lots of steam turbines on top. the steam turbines are cooled the rest is made from steel and can withstand those 125 to 200 °C
edit: second strategy would be building 1 or 2 strong cooling loops and cooling everything right away so nothing gets that hot in the first place
edit edit: building in space requires a background and some transfer medium for the heat like a liquid gas or the new conductor pannel
@@Luma_plays thank you for the info. I’ll look up the first Rec you said. I’m in the mid game and the hump to get over it into the late game is quite large. Trying to farm eggshells is a interesting problem to tackle.
@@01dixieforever01 Check out "Industrial sauna" (by Francis John for example) or "(cool) industrial brick"
with 3 more years of learning what would you change about this design?
You can change a few things but the most important change would be:
Either make the steam room higher when using a tempshiftplate. A TSP has an area of effect of 3x3 so it will press heat into the walls if the walls are in that are. So place the TSP in a way that the area of effect doesn't overlap with walls.
Another important thing that i did correct here but missed somewhere else is:
All bridges act the same as tempshiftplates. They have an area of effect of 1x3 so if you place a single badly placed bridge you will transfer the heat from the inside of the steam room to the outside. This should be avoided at all times.
Most of the rest is up to personal preference. Like dipping the Steamturbine in a thin layer of liquid for better heat transfer from the coolant, making it act as a buffer. Or making the steam room acessible if wanted so you can tune up the building (as one person mentioned), i just normally never do this.
Classic Aquatuner and Steamturbine setups are mostly the same.
And keep in mind:
->the orientation of the AT you csn rotate it by pressing "o" which i did here. The sensor is always closest to the AT input
-> that the metal part to the side is just a representation of your whole base. You can expand your liquid loop so that it covers a large area.
Why only the single temp shift plate inside the steam chamber, and why there specifically?
I think my reasoning at that time was: One was enough for it to work. 2 would also be good but they are expensive (higher material cost).
I also know that the tempshiftplate injects heat into the wall but this was the safest method I could show where I think most people get it to run correctly.
I tried that setuo but everytime i start it the insulated pipe breaks.it breaks at the aquacooler output. How do i prevent this??(i build it out of ceramic)
Hey hey, yeah the first AT setup is tricky.
There are even some slight flaws (like the 2 tile high room
with the tempshiftplate having an effect area of 3x3) in this setup
but it will teach the fundamentals and should work fine.
Here are some Points that might be the reason:
Did you see that i rotated the Aquatuner= So the green and white switched places.
Press "o" on the keyboard to do that.
The reasons for breaking is liquid overcooling until it turns to ice.
So an aggregat state change from liquid to solid.
This will not happen if set up correctly.
Issues could be:
-AT (Aquatuner) oriented the wrong way
-Liquid loop overfilled so the pipe can't empty quickly enough or is blocked
-wrong setting in the sensor for the type of liquid you are using
-changed piping so the pipe priorities wrongfully preferring the input not output.
-automation cable not connected to AT
Hope one of those helped you out :)
Just use a bit of polluted water on top of your regular water, so you dont have to deal with creating a vacuum. Its all gonna turn to steam anyways.
That is good if you know what you are doing. But most people that need help with this would just create a layer of polluted Oxygen in their steam chamber that way. Which is why I didn't show it.
@@Luma_plays never had this problem...
Any ideas on why a 2 aquatuner setup creates Ice, randomly? I have the setup with normal water but temps above 5°c, aka i set the temp of the sensor to 18°C. Somehow it randomly creates Ice right as it emerges from the second Aquatuner, and breaks the pipe.
Yes depending on how you piped them together that was to be expected:
each aquatuner substracts 14°C of the liquid that goes through it.
It sounds like you don't have 1 liquid pipe thermo sensor per aquatuner but just 1 over all.
the single sensor is set to 18°C. So if water comes in at 19°C then it will get cooled -28°C creating ice breaking the pipes.
If you check the temperature at each aquatuner then this shouldn't happen, provided the piping is correct.
Thank you for taking the time to answer, while it might be the most obvious situation, it definitely isn't. Both tuners have sensors, there is also a distance between them (3 tiles), the pipes are in the walls, with only enough piping to check for temp, right before the tuner entrance, the first tuner is set to above 15C and second to above 18C, just cuz I'm trying to prevent freezing, but it does it randomly, all the same.
It's beyond silly, and annoying, especially since it's my main cooling loop for the glossy drecko feeder (mealwood farm tiles), irrigating the bristle blossom/grubgrub farm, and finally infinite storage.
@@TheKueiJin this may sound dumb but have you try putting a liquid reservoir to average out the temp along the pipeline. It may not fix the problem but it makes troubleshooting much easier.(because you can read the temp more accurately)
@@4rchim ofc, it's a cooling loop i devised for cooling 90°C water to 5°C. So it must have a reservoir.
@@TheKueiJin well usually i dont put a reservoir for a loop I won't expand lmao.
so the reservoir should make the packet entering the first AT with constant temp.
Then is your overflow working properly because if the sensor is next to the AT and temp constant only thing that can make the wrong packet enter is overflow.
Did you put the double bridge to make it flow properly.
Also is there any shut-off because it can mess with your loop sometimes.
But imo this seems more like the overflow skipped 1 packet then the wrong one enters.(this happens once in many cycles so even if you stare at it for like 3 cycles you may not even sees it.)
I might just be dumb but what is the gas pump on the left for? And where is that hydrogen that it's pumping coming from?
I cannot show a complete cooling loop with the limited space so i cut the loop short and had it end in the metal tiles.
Now you have a complete cooling loop with which you can cool whatever you want.
You could either extend the loop through out your base.
Or have a second temperature controlled liquid loop that goes through your base independend of the initial cooling loop.
OR in case of the video cool some external gas. I just placed the gas with the pump inside to visualize that.
I understand that might be hard to grasp at first but i didn't know how to visualize it better at that time.
@@Luma_plays ohh that makes a lot more sense thank you!
Why are you making one cell in the water, in the cooling circuit outside?
Cooling Buffer to symbolyze a cooling loop going through your base
2 questions
1.- What is the metal and pulluted water things at the left for? Or how does it work?
2.- What material are the plates (the things you put on the walls, don't know their name)? And does it matter?
The metal thing and liquid to the left symbolyzes what you can or want to cool. that can bee a giant loop of water going through your base or it can be a single liquid pool.
The tempshiftplates (the thing i put behind) are foe heat transfer and buffering heat. makes a system more stable. You could also add more liquid.
They are not necessary in a regular setup (and i made a mistake by putting it in a 2 tile high room; a tempshift plate has a size of 1 but affect all 8 tiles surrounding it as well. Transferring the heat between them AND even pressing the heat into insulation tiles which is not super relevant but not optimal ). in a 2 tile high steam room setup I would leave them be. In a 3 tile high setup they don't hurt.
Edit: yes the material of everything matters. To wich degree is dependent on the setup. Here as mentioned the tempshift plate is optional, hence the material as well.
Why do you use the 2 pipes on the bottom?
The 2 Liquid bridges? They make it harder to overfill the loop. Preventing the liquid loop from stagnation in some cases.
Only relevant for the filling process. But doesn't hurt
Sorry, but I dont understand the purpose of this aquatuner. Is this just to show how to properly set up one, or is there something more about this specific setup that Im missing?
Just to show the beginner players one version to set it up. Not my best video in terms of clarity.
Today i would make it different.
Should probably update it
There is so much wrong with this.. pipes should immediately be led out of the steam box, whether they're insulated or not, along with all sensors except a temp sensor.. tempshift plates should never spread heat to insulated tiles, which also means your steam box is too small; 2-block is fine without temp plate, but 3-block high is far better.. turbine should be dupe-accessible with a power control station integrated for a power plant room so the turbine gives more output.. no need for a cooling box at all if it's a cooling loop and not just heat deletion.. only one bridge is necessary to keep loop running, and no such thing as overfilling when your pipes are easily accessible for quick plumbing or adding liquid.. the gas cooling chamber is ridiculous considering the cooling loop should have many places to cool on its path, which will include radiant liquid pipe in line with whatever radiant gas lines you want to cool. It's not a single cooling system, and runs FAR better with an array of heat to disperse throughout your base. This build is such a waste, and no new player should learn from this. I have more criticism, but that's enough aggravation.
You are right and I agree with most points. This is a old build after this i learned alot more.
I still would like to add some points:
You do not need an acessible steam turbine. In alot of planets the tune up mechanism is a waste of recources. It is nice to have and easy to add later on when you need it, but not necessary.
The gas cooling on the side is not part of the build it symbilizes something that needs cooling by the main cooling loop. So yes 1 loop is better. This is just the way i showed it in the limited space i had for the short. There are many reasons for more bridges like lad reduction and heat transfer though i messed up in this video and transfered some heat outside the insulated room which was an overlook on my side. You definitely can overfill a loop and it halts and stops rotating. Having a duplicant be a plumber requires skill points and dupe action that you can avoid if you prepare for that befoee hand so i would tey to avoid those extra steps afterwards or the wasted skill points.
All in all i like the feedback cause i also look at this with critical eyes after years of playing. The steam room needs to be bigger so (if used with tempshiftplates cause they have a 3x3 effect area), the bridges should never cross the wall from cold to hot etc.) Some of the critique points are up to preference though: like the power station and how to fill the loop.
@@Luma_plays Well, there's no doubt you're passionate and caring about your channel with an excellent attitude towards negativity.. As usual, it was a certain time of day when I commented and now I sort of regret it, but I won't delete it since you went to so much trouble to answer as non-offensively as possible.
The power plant with a good cooling loop and AT/ST setup can generate just enough power to be self-sufficient. Even with only one aquatuner and turbine. Of course, you'll always want your backup generator on automation just in case. Even if you don't need to save resources, it's such a great feeling to get something working to that level of perfection.. There are a lot of opinionated ideas, things work different ways for different applications, and multiple opinions can work just as well in their own ways.
I appreciate the reply being so understanding and accepting of my negativity.. maybe it will help in some way. Happy trails..
Ummm can I just ask which game this is😅
Sure: Oxygen not included. It's way down in the description :)
@@Luma_plays ok thanks alot
What materials is it made of?
Hey dijsmy1 they are listed in the description. normal material except for the steel and plastic for the steamrurbine.
If I only turn on the gen when the stean is above 200c, dose it generate more power?
Hi Balazs. Temperatures over 200°C are just overheating your Steam Turbine quicker.
The steam turbine can produce 850 watts at 200°C everything above that only directly heats up the turbine unnecessarily (if you don't block some ports).
And the setup shown isn't producing energy: it is for cooling. the steam turbine is helpful in regaining a little bit of the energy needed to use the system.
@@Luma_plays I know it does not produce more power than it uses, but would it consume less power when the steam is around 200C?
@@Balazs1102_ Overall i think not. It is a question of consistency. Do you want the steam turbine to run at 200 watts for 4 seconds or at 800 watts for 1 second?
do you want to get energy back in form of a short spike of a lot of energy or a small amount of energy over a longer time?
Same goes for a heat buffer in form of more water.
@@Luma_plays I understand. Thanks for the help.
I have a suggestion:
If you have these text boxes means you have some editing software so next time please add the grid. It is so unclear what length what is and replicating it from the video is literal torment
Hey, hey. Understandable. I have added reference points in the newer videos (different tiles in the bottom) for now in this video after a few seconds you can see the building grid in the background. Or you can use the buildings as reference size. they are always the same.
And yes this is obviously edited even without the text boxes :D. But I don't see how that software helps me with the grid?
Зачем делать ответвление до пара генератора? Можно сделать само охлаждение турбины от своего же стока воды
If you mean the steam turbine output water then: yes that is possible IF your steam never goes above 135°C.
Which it will if you cool your base with it.
So i wouldn't suggest doing that for a base cooling loop. But when you only cool a small area it should be fine
What was the Hydrogen for?
To symbolyse / showcase how you woupd cool something with that the AT and ST setup.
@@Luma_plays heh I do not understand the abbreviations AT and ST
@@sam11182 Ah those are short for Aquatuner (AT) and Steamturbin (ST) since most people don't want to wrtite those :D.
So the hydrogen part could be synonymous for coouling your oxygen supply or another liquid loop that leads to your base etc.
@@Luma_plays Hah thanks! That was pretty helpful haha
Делать 4-ех тонный шлюз в 2020💀💀💀
Nobody build a thing with pipe first.
That is true. I thought it is easier to see that way.
I just fill the whole thing with water instead of making a vacuum...
Also works well. If you have so much water that is an option :)
@@Luma_playsI think I saw someone add water on the bottom and on top of that polluted water so u don't have to fill all with a lot of water, not sure if polluted water turns into steam tho
@@TZ57 That is a good idea to save liquid. and keep the amount smaller. i would still use at least 3kg per tile.
Polluted water when cooked turns into clean water (which turns into steam) and dirt.
The issue qith polluted water for beginners is if they place it badly or in the wrong order you can have it off gas to polluted oxygen. and you don't want any other gases in your steam room. Also some people would be annoyed by the remaining dirt. But overall yes that is a good method if you know what you are doing. Hence i left it out for the beginner version. Hope that explanation helped
З чого тут термальні пластини та металеві клітинки?