Thank you. The CNC didn't cooperate on this one and I had very little room for scrap. I didn't scrap any of the 400 threaded holes, and used the same tap for all of them.
#3 lives forever for all those who grew up watching him week after week. To the rest of you out there, I'm sorry you missed the show! Good job as always on the video ,Joe. Thanks.
Killer idea on the slot jig in the milling vice... I've been thinking about how to do this with a few parts I have... and this is a VERY nice solution. Kudos.
Love it Joe, thanks for sharing! Also, thanks for the Eagles shout out, born and raised in Philly and will always be a Philly fan even thou I have be in Cali for over 25 years.
Wonderful. I just did 8 blind holes of 8mm OD, 10mm deep, in steel and I can tell you manually it takes a LOT longer... VERY nice setup - brilliant setup and wonderful tips as always! Thanks for sharing.
I had to do something like this years ago when I helped out in a local machine shop. It was I think around 250 pieces of the same bracket. Drill and tap a hole in each one. The tapping head worked awesome on a drill press. That self-reversing action made all the difference. It went pretty quickly. Having to do that many pieces by hand would probably have been miserable. These heads aren't cheap, but certainly earn their keep. Makes me appreciate CNC Thread Milling.
Hi Joe! Gosh. If I only crossed the path of a tapmatic head. Those puppies aren't Cheap! Yes. I remember working for folks that had them and only wished for one, or two ;- ) Remember or seen the old hand crank, screw don type tap press with a keyed quill and crank the wheel rotating and pushing the tap to depth or thru with each hole? ;- ) I thought it was actually pretty good compared to a straight or "T" handle. Thanks for another great one Joe. You always keep the ideas alive ;- ) T up again!
Great ideas for future projects The idea of your "drawer" is unique and I can see use even with my new skills as a hobby machinist. thanks from Angola, NY
I'm a big fan of your videos, great content. Thanks! We have a pneumatic tapping arm at work and it's one of my favorite tools in the shop. It has a range of #6 - 3/4". My previous job I was tapping everything (through and blind) from #10-24 to 1"-8 with a Carlton radial arm drill. The tapping arm has taken so much stress out of my life to say the least.
@@joepie221 Yes, I have a couple of Australian machinist supply catalogues, and the one for home/model use is in the 300-400 dollar range. The industrial supply catalogue is even more expensive again - we use products from that supplier at work, and they are a good compromise on price and quality
Long ago I used one of those while working in a sign shop. 1/2” plastic in 4' long strips with 1/4” holes about every 1” held in tee slot on a drill press. They were used to make adjustable mountings for vacuum formed letters. Hard to stay awake after several hundred. The TapMatic worked well in the plastic.
Ha Joe very cool once again something I would not have thought of. Really pays to stand next to the old boys in the shop. Thanks for taking the time. Also glad to see your shop getting the work and growing. From your vids you moved to Tx just be for you started sharing your knowledge and building a customer base is never easy. All the best Will
I just got my bench top manual mill and a lot of starter tooling. I got it all in R8 Collets cause those collets are easy to find. I will be going through all your milling and lathe vids trying to glean and learn everything I can. I dream of one day working in a machine shop once my tour of service is over or building and creating my own little machine/fabrication shop. Love the vids and content have been a long time subscriber. Thank you for what you do sir.
I have been thinking about getting a tapping head for my home CNC machine (Wells Index 487) and was wondering if I should... after seeing this video, I consider it a must have. Thanks for sharing!
Great video. I have one of the older Procunier 2E models that can go up to 1/2" in aluminum, or 5/16" in mild steel. I got a good deal on ebay because it had been assembled incorrectly. I've got about $85 in it, and it works great. (edited to correct a fraction)
If you could make something to squeeze out a couple drops of tapping lube in the next hole every time you bring the tap down you would almost have a mass production rig. (Couple one way valves and a syringe to make a reciprocating syringe pump, and make a little treadle to press with your foot to pump out just enough is what springs to mind for a manual system. An Arduino with a microswitch sensing the downstroke of the drill press, controlling the cheapest chinese peristaltic pump I could find would be my suggestion for a more automated rig.
hello joe in the 80ies I work a time in this ,with the tread tapping head Ive make very much treads but with the hammilton tapping machine more and more and with the tread rolling machines millions of treads but now im living easier because Ive ms and i take it easy and look your videos ( i like the metal mecanical
Hi Joe, That looks a very interesting piece of kit. My most up to date tapping tools are wrenches I made whilst at apprentices training school back in ‘62. I guess I’ll just carry on using those but I do like to see progress. Regards.
Always envied these devices - but cost is for sure a major problem. Also for me my mill just doesn't have enough clearance for height. However - highly enjoyable to see this in action - impressive to say the least! :)
Hi, Joe. Thank you for an other great video. Just an idea for the future ones. Maybe you could show the procedure first, and then explain the setup? I think this would make the videos even more engaging.
Believe it or not I actually have a Tapmatic R7, does from #10 to 3/4". I got it not working and had to rebuild it but it taps holes like a tornado. I seldom ever tap enough holes to use it but I always wanted one and I love it.
I just posted a link to your rebuild (Tapmatic) video's as one comment wondered how they work. Having seen yours apart I thought this is the best way to understand how they work. Cheers from John, Australia. Edit. th-cam.com/video/1Fjj-pg4x0k/w-d-xo.html
Super slick technique. I know it's just the angle of the camera, but it's giving me the willies. (says the guy who just had to get a pin put in his finger)
Your thoughts about this: I picked up an old Canedy-Otto drill press with a Procunier E 3 tapping head on it at an auction. Both actually too big and not really needed for my garage shop, being retired etc. The head had one collet with it a 5/16". Checking the web I found other collets from #8 to 3/4" are available, but expensive. As I won't be doing any real production, I was thinking of getting one larger collet size say 1/2" and connecting a chuck up to it so I could chuck up various smaller taps without having to buy a bunch of collets. For my infrequent use I don't see much wrong with this, but am not sure.
say Joe, what type of tap would you recommend for use with a tapping head? there are spiral flute taps etc and so i wonder if some other types would be or not be suitable for use with a tapping head? cheers mike
That's an awesome tool Joe , I've taped a lot of holes in my life but never have I had to do that many at once. Also I must say I have never seen a tool like that. It seems to have a clutch or something like that , the way it looked when it reached the full length of the tap and before going into reverse it would chatter ? Also when running that many holes how do you keep the chips and stuff from building up in the tap. I noticed every time you would pull it up and out the tap would be clean. Very informative and good videos as always. And most definitely hats off for the girls hockey team. Way to go USA.
There are 3 different tap geometries: neutral, right hand, and left hand. The neutral taps are the ones you find at lowes and pack up with chips. The other two have reliefs like a right hand and left hand drill for power tapping. One pushes the chips upward back out the hole (good for blind holes) and the other pushes the chips downward like he has in the video. You can see all the spiral chips down in the vise jaws when he swaps parts.
Thumbs Joe, thanks for posting. By chance do you have a video showing how to adjust the torque adjustment on the head? I have one of these tapping heads, but am not sure how to adjust it. I did watch your other video as you mentioned, but it really didn't cover adjusting the torque.
On the top of the head, there is a straight knurled ring with a set screw in it. Back off the set screw first. The ring will rotate to expose silver graphics that go around the head itself. Looking down the arbor of the head, counterclockwise rotation of this cap will reduce the pressure. As you rotate the cap, it will expose different numbers and ledges on the graphic. Line up the bottom of the cap to the number or graphic level that coincides with the screw you are using. Lock the set screw.
I was tapping about 100 holes into some 1/4" steel this weekend, I should have stopped and watched this first! Nice tip on sliding parts through. NEXT VIDEO How the heck can I rapidly space holes every two inches?
Install soft jaws in your mill vise. Drill a hole in the top of each jaw inline on the 'Y' axis. Insert dowel pins in these holes. Drill the required first hole in your part. Lay a parallel across the vise jaws against the 2 dowel pins. Put a third pin in the hole you just drilled and slide the part until the pin hits the parallel. Now pickup that pin with an indicator and move 2". For every hole you drill, just repeat this process. You never have to move the table. Be careful how stack positioning may result in a wider pattern and check your 2" setting after about 5 holes. If it not right at 10", adjust accordingly. Good luck.
Is that a “custom” relieved tap? Years ago the Japanese branded Yuasa tapping heads broke fewer taps and seemed to work better than the much more expensive American made Tapmatic. I’m sure the Tapmatic has probably improved over what was being sold then (1970s/80s)?
Another great segment Joe. I really like your innovative techniques. I too like finding ways to reduce production time in the shop. I recently had to drill 100, 5/16" holes through the center of 2" diameter 4" long aluminum slugs. The lathe tail stock method would have taken all day plus. I built a quick lathe tool-post mounted chuck that I could feed under power and I knocked the job in less that 2.5 hours. The video is here >> th-cam.com/video/PIWkM3qptfw/w-d-xo.html
Great tip. Love tapping heads. I personally use procunier heads. Thats a neat trick making use of the carrier in a slot. I'll file that one away. Does your tapping fluid smell like cinnamon?
For some reason I can't stand if i get tap magic on my hands. So For most tapping I use stuff called perfect tap #10 works good and it doesn't bother my skin a bit. And save a bottle of tap magic for high temp alloys.
Hi Joe - tapping heads are great aren't they? For those of us hobbyists with smaller pocketbooks than a production shop, eBay often comes up trumps... So, a question: I have a similar Tapmatic, but it doesn't have the torque adjuster at the top, it's just got dog clutches in it. Is there any reliable way I can measure how far down a tap will pull before it disengages? If I want to thread to "pretty damn close" to the bottom of a small blind hole, it's always a real arse-puckering experience... The Tapmatic will smash an M4 tap in a microsecond (ask me how I know this....). Thanks!
Procunier uses clutch material rather than dog clutches. I have been using those to tap up to 1/2-13 into laser cut holes 100s of times with a 2E. Maybe give them a shot. You'll probably want the 1E Model though. I can bottom out a 4-40 Roll tap in aluminum with no problem using the 1E.
Its officially viral in Europe. Over 8 million views. I actually got 1.2 million views in one night. It was truly amazing and worth sharing. Thanks for watching. tell your friends to check it out.
Joe that is an awesome technique thanks for sharing it , I have looked at several tapmatic units used on ebay and wondered if they were worth the investment? I think I saw the #30 for under a 100$ last time.. are these heads very temper mental or in need or any regular maintenance that would affect the internals of a used system that would mean It could be run out junk and me not know til it was to late? thanks again for all the things you do for us all...
The Tapmatic heads are pretty forgiving, if you get the manual models. They have an adjustable clutch for the different size taps and with a bit of regular maintenance will last a long time, there are manuals for most models online.
Thanks. Yes I did. I could have saved some material on this one, but I radiused all the main corners in OP 1. It would have been a pain in the butt to do that in OP 2. The job went well.
Hi Joe I have an older tap matic SDS model I think its the same thing but what i would like to know is how did you machine those radius in those parts?
Proper tools. Bullet proof set up. Sharp thinking. A+ all day long. Good stuff Joe.
Thank you. The CNC didn't cooperate on this one and I had very little room for scrap. I didn't scrap any of the 400 threaded holes, and used the same tap for all of them.
Can't beat that,
#3 lives forever for all those who grew up watching him week after week. To the rest of you out there, I'm sorry you missed the show! Good job as always on the video ,Joe. Thanks.
i have been in the forming and cold heading industry with secondary machining for 30 years but i always learn from your tips, thank you
Killer idea on the slot jig in the milling vice... I've been thinking about how to do this with a few parts I have... and this is a VERY nice solution. Kudos.
It worked great. Have fun.
I like seeing your setups and processes. Common sense creative. Thanks for sharing
Thank you. Not enough common sense left in this world in many areas.
Excellent solution Joe P. You are a modern day Wizard. Never let anyone tell you otherwise.
Love it Joe, thanks for sharing! Also, thanks for the Eagles shout out, born and raised in Philly and will always be a Philly fan even thou I have be in Cali for over 25 years.
I like it, Quality tooling is a money maker. Proven fact.
Buy nice or buy twice.
Wonderful.
I just did 8 blind holes of 8mm OD, 10mm deep, in steel and I can tell you manually it takes a LOT longer...
VERY nice setup - brilliant setup and wonderful tips as always!
Thanks for sharing.
That's what I love about you man - work smarter, not harder.
Great job of fast accurate tapping. What a neat setup!
I had to do something like this years ago when I helped out in a local machine shop. It was I think around 250 pieces of the same bracket. Drill and tap a hole in each one. The tapping head worked awesome on a drill press. That self-reversing action made all the difference. It went pretty quickly. Having to do that many pieces by hand would probably have been miserable.
These heads aren't cheap, but certainly earn their keep. Makes me appreciate CNC Thread Milling.
Best wishes to Austin, Texas from Milano, Italy. Thanks for sharing your tips&tricks, Joe.
Slick setup, used to work at a place that had one of these. Worth every penny for jobs like the one you showed.
You Bet. Stings at first, but soooo worth it.
Tapmatics are pretty amazing. Even for controlling depth on blind holes. Very effective on those pesky small sizes too
Good stuff Joe, Love your thinking and approch to jobs. Thanks for sharing you knowledge
Hi Joe! Gosh. If I only crossed the path of a tapmatic head. Those puppies aren't Cheap! Yes. I remember working for folks that had them and only wished for one, or two ;- ) Remember or seen the old hand crank, screw don type tap press with a keyed quill and crank the wheel rotating and pushing the tap to depth or thru with each hole? ;- ) I thought it was actually pretty good compared to a straight or "T" handle. Thanks for another great one Joe. You always keep the ideas alive ;- ) T up again!
Yeah I just got a job with 600 holes . I am glad a bought a autotap long ago . Never used it till now
Great ideas for future projects The idea of your "drawer" is unique and I can see use even with my new skills as a hobby machinist. thanks from Angola, NY
I'm a big fan of your videos, great content. Thanks!
We have a pneumatic tapping arm at work and it's one of my favorite tools in the shop. It has a range of #6 - 3/4". My previous job I was tapping everything (through and blind) from #10-24 to 1"-8 with a Carlton radial arm drill. The tapping arm has taken so much stress out of my life to say the least.
Hey Joe great tip/trick as always keep up the good work from a machinist of 34 years
Now I have not viewed the video yet, but have seen Tapmatic style devices in catalogues. I look forward to seeing this one! And getting a Tapmatic!
Get out your checkbook. Its going to sting, but it is well worth it.
@@joepie221 Yes, I have a couple of Australian machinist supply catalogues, and the one for home/model use is in the 300-400 dollar range. The industrial supply catalogue is even more expensive again - we use products from that supplier at work, and they are a good compromise on price and quality
Long ago I used one of those while working in a sign shop. 1/2” plastic in 4' long strips with 1/4” holes about every 1” held in tee slot on a drill press. They were used to make adjustable mountings for vacuum formed letters. Hard to stay awake after several hundred. The TapMatic worked well in the plastic.
Ha Joe very cool once again something I would not have thought of. Really pays to stand next to the old boys in the shop. Thanks for taking the time. Also glad to see your shop getting the work and growing. From your vids you moved to Tx just be for you started sharing your knowledge and building a customer base is never easy. All the best
Will
I just got my bench top manual mill and a lot of starter tooling. I got it all in R8 Collets cause those collets are easy to find. I will be going through all your milling and lathe vids trying to glean and learn everything I can. I dream of one day working in a machine shop once my tour of service is over or building and creating my own little machine/fabrication shop. Love the vids and content have been a long time subscriber. Thank you for what you do sir.
Thank you for watching and thanks for your service. tell me which branch and where are you stationed.
I have been thinking about getting a tapping head for my home CNC machine (Wells Index 487) and was wondering if I should... after seeing this video, I consider it a must have. Thanks for sharing!
Wow!...that was really well done. Took something from that for a drilling job. Thank you very much Sir. Every days a school day.
Great video. I have one of the older Procunier 2E models that can go up to 1/2" in aluminum, or 5/16" in mild steel. I got a good deal on ebay because it had been assembled incorrectly. I've got about $85 in it, and it works great. (edited to correct a fraction)
Very cool tool, excellent setup/explanation. Makes me even more interested in knowing exactly how a Tapmatic functions. Thanks!
I saw a cross sectional drawing one time.WOW. There is lots going on inside the housing.
This may help Robert, cheers from John. Australia.
th-cam.com/video/1Fjj-pg4x0k/w-d-xo.html
Way to go, you've ruined me, I'll never want to hand tap another hole ever again knowing something like this is an option.
If you could make something to squeeze out a couple drops of tapping lube in the next hole every time you bring the tap down you would almost have a mass production rig.
(Couple one way valves and a syringe to make a reciprocating syringe pump, and make a little treadle to press with your foot to pump out just enough is what springs to mind for a manual system. An Arduino with a microswitch sensing the downstroke of the drill press, controlling the cheapest chinese peristaltic pump I could find would be my suggestion for a more automated rig.
That operation was sweet ! And great comment at the end.
hello joe in the 80ies I work a time in this ,with the tread tapping head Ive make very much treads but with the hammilton tapping machine more and more and with the tread rolling machines millions of treads but now im living easier because Ive ms and i take it easy and look your videos ( i like the metal mecanical
I learned a lot from you in short time Joe !! thx for sharing your knowledge
Hi Joe, That looks a very interesting piece of kit. My most up to date tapping tools are wrenches I made whilst at apprentices training school back in ‘62. I guess I’ll just carry on using those but I do like to see progress. Regards.
I like your T-Slot Vise Jaws. The Jaws are a very good idea. The only thing to make this better would be a Roll Form Tap as opposed to a Cutting Tap.
Great set up Joe. I find your videos extremely helpful.
Always envied these devices - but cost is for sure a major problem. Also for me my mill just doesn't have enough clearance for height. However - highly enjoyable to see this in action - impressive to say the least! :)
Thanks Joe. Always useful. Thanks for repairing that mill. Wonderful now.
_Dan_
Looking good this episode my dude, got that silver fox look going on 🔥
Now, that's fast! Cool tip Joe. Thanks. Ciao, Marco.
Is there no end to your wisdom? Thanks for pumping out the hits!
Joe, 'Learning Lives Here'. Thanks for sharing. Kindest regards Joe.
Nice setup and demo Joe! I have the same Tapmatic and did a video using it on DC53 with hundreds of blind holes. It worked great! Steve
Hi, Joe. Thank you for an other great video. Just an idea for the future ones. Maybe you could show the procedure first, and then explain the setup? I think this would make the videos even more engaging.
Very cool Joe! Thanks for posting.
Awesome video joe. Always very educational! Have a great time at the Bash (...and do some diving while there)
Thanks for sharing your methodology, much appreciated!
Another great tip Joe! I definitely this in mind next time I tapping multiple holes .. Thanks !
Admiration in attaining perfection. Thank you for sharing.
Good stuff as always Joe, Enjoyed!
ATB, Robin
a very good example of setup optimization
Awesome work Joe. Your a great teacher!
Believe it or not I actually have a Tapmatic R7, does from #10 to 3/4". I got it not working and had to rebuild it but it taps holes like a tornado. I seldom ever tap enough holes to use it but I always wanted one and I love it.
I just posted a link to your rebuild (Tapmatic) video's as one comment wondered how they work. Having seen yours apart I thought this is the best way to understand how they work. Cheers from John, Australia.
Edit. th-cam.com/video/1Fjj-pg4x0k/w-d-xo.html
Thanks John.
Welcome Mate, Cheers.
That isn't even fair. I still tap by hand! But as always, another excellent bit of knowledge in video form from Joe! Thanks one more time.
another great tip, thanks Joe
Cool setup. CNC can't compete with that trick.
Not this time.
Any even close to modern machine will easily, even Haas mills are capable of rigid tapping at 3000rpm all day all night
Thanks Joe, excellent vid... Like the setup.
You are amazing teacher , I really enjoy your videos
Another great problem solving solution, ty for sharing!
Really useful and interesting information in this channel. Thankyou
Yep, one of the greatest tools in the machine shop. I hope whom ever invented it is enjoying their fortune.
Thank you for this video joe
thanks for sharing more great tips Joe.
Well done videos Joe
Nice setup.
Thanks. Its a real time saver.
Tapping heads are great, I use one frequently to tap M20 in aluminium 36mm deep only sensible way I can do it. Each one takes just seconds
Could have used that 10 years ago! Thanks for your work!
thanks for watching.
Outstanding ! Though way past my pay grade . Thank you for sharing.
Another great idea cant wait to give it a try
Simple/smart!...thanks for sharing
Hey Chuck. I hope all is well. Thanks for checking it out. I will be at the bash this year. Flights and lodging are all paid for.
That's amazing. Thanks for the video
Super slick technique. I know it's just the angle of the camera, but it's giving me the willies. (says the guy who just had to get a pin put in his finger)
I had an inch on either side. Thats a mile.
Oh I know you were fine. I think I'm just oversensitive since the snowblower bit me last week.
Your thoughts about this: I picked up an old Canedy-Otto drill press with a Procunier E 3 tapping head on it at an auction. Both actually too big and not really needed for my garage shop, being retired etc. The head had one collet with it a 5/16". Checking the web I found other collets from #8 to 3/4" are available, but expensive. As I won't be doing any real production, I was thinking of getting one larger collet size say 1/2" and connecting a chuck up to it so I could chuck up various smaller taps without having to buy a bunch of collets. For my infrequent use I don't see much wrong with this, but am not sure.
nice workJoe
The 'floating tap' is super accurate, contrary to initial thoughts.?
As accurate as the tap. The tapping head has a floating spindle that will allow a small misalignment...
6:56 Challenge accepted Joe! :-D
say Joe, what type of tap would you recommend for use with a tapping head? there are spiral flute taps etc and so i wonder if some other types would be or not be suitable for use with a tapping head?
cheers
mike
Same tap you would select based on the hole and material. Also consider is it a thru hole or bottomed.
great idea , thanks for sharing
Didn't choose to form tap?
That's an awesome tool Joe , I've taped a lot of holes in my life but never have I had to do that many at once. Also I must say I have never seen a tool like that. It seems to have a clutch or something like that , the way it looked when it reached the full length of the tap and before going into reverse it would chatter ? Also when running that many holes how do you keep the chips and stuff from building up in the tap. I noticed every time you would pull it up and out the tap would be clean. Very informative and good videos as always. And most definitely hats off for the girls hockey team. Way to go USA.
There are 3 different tap geometries: neutral, right hand, and left hand. The neutral taps are the ones you find at lowes and pack up with chips. The other two have reliefs like a right hand and left hand drill for power tapping. One pushes the chips upward back out the hole (good for blind holes) and the other pushes the chips downward like he has in the video. You can see all the spiral chips down in the vise jaws when he swaps parts.
The tap he is using is commonly called a gun tap (cause it shoots the chips our the bottom), or a spiral point tap.
www.mcmaster.com/#taps/=1bw03h6
Yep. Best one for through holes.
That's a great tool, just wondering though why don't you tap it on the mill while the work is being done there
I honestly tried, but it was tearing up the holes. I'll re-visit it and trouble shoot the issue.
Joe Pieczynski ya rigid tapping on the mill can be a hit and miss experience
Thumbs Joe, thanks for posting. By chance do you have a video showing how to adjust the torque adjustment on the head? I have one of these tapping heads, but am not sure how to adjust it. I did watch your other video as you mentioned, but it really didn't cover adjusting the torque.
On the top of the head, there is a straight knurled ring with a set screw in it. Back off the set screw first. The ring will rotate to expose silver graphics that go around the head itself. Looking down the arbor of the head, counterclockwise rotation of this cap will reduce the pressure. As you rotate the cap, it will expose different numbers and ledges on the graphic. Line up the bottom of the cap to the number or graphic level that coincides with the screw you are using. Lock the set screw.
Thanks for taking the time to write back! This was very helpful.
No Problem.
I was tapping about 100 holes into some 1/4" steel this weekend, I should have stopped and watched this first! Nice tip on sliding parts through. NEXT VIDEO How the heck can I rapidly space holes every two inches?
Install soft jaws in your mill vise. Drill a hole in the top of each jaw inline on the 'Y' axis. Insert dowel pins in these holes. Drill the required first hole in your part. Lay a parallel across the vise jaws against the 2 dowel pins. Put a third pin in the hole you just drilled and slide the part until the pin hits the parallel. Now pickup that pin with an indicator and move 2". For every hole you drill, just repeat this process. You never have to move the table. Be careful how stack positioning may result in a wider pattern and check your 2" setting after about 5 holes. If it not right at 10", adjust accordingly. Good luck.
Thank You, Need to remember to video tape this one (I haven't posted anything in ages). Tom
Joe, thanks so much. Had a 30X and didn't know how to use it. Now I do and am fearless
Make sure You adjust the driving torque correctly for the tap you are using and all should go well.
Is that a “custom” relieved tap? Years ago the Japanese branded Yuasa tapping heads broke fewer taps and seemed to work better than the much more expensive American made Tapmatic. I’m sure the Tapmatic has probably improved over what was being sold then (1970s/80s)?
Its a stock tap. Emuge has taps like this, but I was shocked to see this style from the brand I bought. It worked great.
Another great segment Joe. I really like your innovative techniques. I too like finding ways to reduce production time in the shop. I recently had to drill 100, 5/16" holes through the center of 2" diameter 4" long aluminum slugs. The lathe tail stock method would have taken all day plus. I built a quick lathe tool-post mounted chuck that I could feed under power and I knocked the job in less that 2.5 hours. The video is here >> th-cam.com/video/PIWkM3qptfw/w-d-xo.html
Great tip. Love tapping heads. I personally use procunier heads. Thats a neat trick making use of the carrier in a slot. I'll file that one away. Does your tapping fluid smell like cinnamon?
Actually it does. Thats how I always identify the tap magic.
For some reason I can't stand if i get tap magic on my hands. So For most tapping I use stuff called perfect tap #10 works good and it doesn't bother my skin a bit. And save a bottle of tap magic for high temp alloys.
Use of gun tap should be recommended. Tapping heads are nice, but for my limited home projects I've found a tapping guide to be sufficient.
Use of a gun tap is only recommended when its a through hole situation.
Hi Joe - tapping heads are great aren't they? For those of us hobbyists with smaller pocketbooks than a production shop, eBay often comes up trumps... So, a question: I have a similar Tapmatic, but it doesn't have the torque adjuster at the top, it's just got dog clutches in it. Is there any reliable way I can measure how far down a tap will pull before it disengages? If I want to thread to "pretty damn close" to the bottom of a small blind hole, it's always a real arse-puckering experience... The Tapmatic will smash an M4 tap in a microsecond (ask me how I know this....). Thanks!
Procunier uses clutch material rather than dog clutches. I have been using those to tap up to 1/2-13 into laser cut holes 100s of times with a 2E. Maybe give them a shot. You'll probably want the 1E Model though. I can bottom out a 4-40 Roll tap in aluminum with no problem using the 1E.
Does the tap cut true to its H value/pitch dia or larger compared to: tapping by hand or in a CNC?
Agree with everything you said especially #3 in the winners circle , but I don’t believe in “ crash em to pass em “
Me neither, but he was the master at sending the 'get out of my way' message.
just seen your spider video ..... superb
Its officially viral in Europe. Over 8 million views. I actually got 1.2 million views in one night. It was truly amazing and worth sharing. Thanks for watching. tell your friends to check it out.
heyyyyyyyyyy that auto tapping tool is cool, how's it work inside
Joe what a cool idea, I have parts where I can use this idea, if I lived near you would never be away picking your brains bud
Good luck.
Joe that is an awesome technique thanks for sharing it , I have looked at several tapmatic units used on ebay and wondered if they were worth the investment? I think I saw the #30 for under a 100$ last time.. are these heads very temper mental or in need or any regular maintenance that would affect the internals of a used system that would mean It could be run out junk and me not know til it was to late? thanks again for all the things you do for us all...
The Tapmatic heads are pretty forgiving, if you get the manual models. They have an adjustable clutch for the different size taps and with a bit of regular maintenance will last a long time, there are manuals for most models online.
Terrific, Thanks for the helpout L98
Nice looking parts. Do you mill the back off to separate the parts after?
Thanks. Yes I did. I could have saved some material on this one, but I radiused all the main corners in OP 1. It would have been a pain in the butt to do that in OP 2. The job went well.
Got to get this.
Hi Joe I have an older tap matic SDS model I think its the same thing but what i would like to know is how did you machine those radius in those parts?
The parts were done in a 3 vise setup and the radius cut was positioned along the 'X' axis. I did it with a 2 flute carbide 1/2" dia ball end mill.
wow that is slick as sh#t!!! pardon my french... very cool Joe !!!