Excellent video and very helpful. We followed your directions, and our soft spots (vinyl plank) feel 100% better now. But you make it look a lot easier than it is, as far as pushing the caulk out of the injector tube. We finally got a system going that worked well, and I'm so thankful we found your video.
Making plugs out of a scrap vynl is better less risk of damaging a board especially one that's in center of room burning pieces it doesn't work long term from experience on fixing people doing this
@@ernestocaamano7818 Hi Ernesto, I was in the area of Beverly Hills, Santa Monica, Downton for the commercial jobs, and I say 60 to 70% of my business was new homes in the Santa Clarita, ventura, oxnard, SimiVALLEY etc. I moved to SA Texas 6 yrs ago and was running my business from here, and going once a month to check things with my guys.Becouse the COVID and other reasons the companies that I had contract for the new homes lost the contract with LENNAR, and DR HORTON. I decided to close doors, and retire here in TX. If you need some contacts for some work I can give you a couple of names of guys that used to work for me. REGARDS.
I did multiple Google searches, browsed r/ flooring subreddit, spoke to a pro flooring store owner, and a long time handyman. All said the same thing. Rip out the flooring to the point where the vinyl tiles broke and reinstall. There are other videos that similar to yours but yours is the best. You didn't use a brand name kit like Fix-a-Floor but to use what can easily be found and can be reused later. Fix-a-Floor kit has to be ordered online. Only the caulk tube is available at HD. You also provided a shopping list. Thank you.
Great video! I read through all the comments and ran an experiment. I clamped a LVP plank to plywood and tried wood glue VS Big Stretch Caulk. Findings: Big Stretch created a strong bond to the pad attached to the the LVP plank and plywood. Wood glue bonded to the plywood but only created a weak bond the padding on the LVP. This bond was so weak that any expansion of the floor will break the bond and allow the plank to float as designed. Also note the wood glue dry time was way faster. I am planning to use wood glue and break the bond by using a suction cup to pull the planks up after the glue cures. Also, plastic welding did not go well for me I found that Robert’s Caulk worked great to fill the practice holes. I did use a heat gun with the caulk as it made it more pliable to work with. One additional tip is to use a suction cup or tape to pull the floor up the flooring when drilling so you don’t drill into the subfloor.
Exactly what I was thinking that Big Stretch would definitely glue a floor down where the wood glue is only going to stick to the wood floor and probably not to the backing pad of your vinyl plank so you save me the time I'm having to do that experiment thank you
Great video! One piece of feedback is to add blue tape over the drill spot before drilling the holes. This way when you fill the holes, the tape serves to protect the area around the hole. Similar to using it before nailing trim to the wall
We just moved into a new house and have 3 soft spots that are driving me crazy with LVP flooring. I had been searching for repair videos for a while and todays yours popped up. Excellent job with straight to the point instructions, thank you sir!
Thank you. Excellent video. I would recommend using a level to judge how much upward deflection you have as you fill the void and then use it to push it down flat...then let it dry. I wouldn't use a bucket on it and potentially create another low spot. Your hole patching instruction is great.
All of your videos on repairing vinyl planking were helpful. I purchased the tools your recommended and all went well. I purchased a adhesive which was colored to match my flooring and this made it even easier to fix without leaving any sign of my work. Keep up the good work.
I've been installing for 21 yrs, we actually have needle kits with smaller needles and a special liquid filler and dowel pegs for this. You have the right idea. The sodering iron is a bad idea. Just use wood dowel pegs, knock it in with the small hammer, break it off, knock it in a little below the surface with a nail puncher, then fill with matching vinyl putty
Wow. I just finished installing some LVP and the baseboards, and after all said and done, I had noticed there were two pockets. This is gonna save me a lot of time and energy and headache thank you!
Wow! What a great idea. I've been sitting here feeling so defeated from the discovery of a hollow spot I my newly installed engineered hardwood. Was planning to take it all back up to get to the spot and fill it with leveling compound. This will save me a ton of time and headache (wife will be glad too). Cool!
I cannot thank you enough for posting this video. Everything worked as expected. I had a pretty sizable mini-hump under one small row in a transition spot where there was some house settling. I didn't floor level there, which I prob should have but forgot to. This took care of it and it even looks better to the eye when you look at it (It was starting to show a small dip). Solid as a rock and event now. Thanks again!
😂….a total coincidence. My house is a Vaughn Construction build. The crack drives me crazy. My wife says I “feel” with my feet. Your advice would be greatly appreciated! Ron
Here I am, 6 months later after you posted this awesome instructional video and I can not thank you enough! But hey, thank you very much! We just bought a brand new home and the floor has soft spots in many areas. Again, thank you!🙏
Very happy to have found this. A friend just had some work done on her house by a contractor hired from a home improvement store. They fouled up several things, including the installation of the floor. This solution is exactly what I need! Thanks very much.
I tried this and the Extreme Stretch never cured. 3 weeks later I had to remove the flooring, self level, and reinstall flooring. Was still wet like I just filled it. Though this didn't work for me, I hope it works for others. Love your videos!
I cannot express how grateful i am for this video. You saved me a ton of headache and the warping floor was driving me nuts every time I stepped on it. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for filming this video. I took my time injecting the Extreme Stretch , put 2 paint cans over the fixed spot for 2 weeks until it set and voila! My floor feels 100% firmer now. I appreciate you!
@kristin8809 so, contrary to what others are saying that it could cause issues with the expanding and contracting of the vinyl flooring, you haven't experienced any problems with expanding/contracting planks?
@@kristin8809 I had the same problem right now. I had vinyl on-click floor on the self-leveling compound (I dont know if the translation is great but some "cement" that should self level). Sadly, but the compound has some pits, and vinyls are not laying on the compound directly there which creates a hollow spots and the irritating noise when walking on it Don't you have any problems with caulk drying? I'm wondering about applying the method from the video but I have doubts about the drying..
Thank you so much!!! We had flooring installed and a few months later we had floating areas. Our installer was in a serious accident breaking his pelvis. I figured we were just stuck. Did I mention…. THANK YOU! Bravo on the video.
Your expertise in addressing and resolving issues is characterized by meticulous attention to detail and comprehensive techniques. Awesome video, as always.
I have the exact vinyl floor, even the same color. I have a hollow spot that I assumed would require ripping apart the flooring so I just learned to live with it, then I accidentally came across this video and now I have confidence I can fix it for free! Thank you!
I had never thought about doing something like this to fix low spots- brilliant! Thanks for the video, after 25 Years of remodeling I still learn something new every Day... I can't remodel anymore though, got a permanently bad shoulder that keeps me from using it for much more than everyday stuff. I still work on stuff, just very slowly over long periods due to the shoulder so I can't make money remodeling anymore. Still, this will help me improve a couple spots in our basement :D
Ok so I know you are a professional, I understand that, I am aswell, your work is genuine. This is more of a seasoned industry secret. So always keep a pin nail or thin tack nail in your pouch, if you place it in your drill as a bit it actually works better then a normal drill bit because it heat drills through the surface leaving a natural edge, then to fill the hole get some charcoal from any art store and a wax block for flooring, place crushed charcoal on other surface and rub the wax end through it, tell it blends in the wax, then take the wax and fill the hole, you can use a sealer, dull nail coat(nail polish works well) although the wax will harden on its own so you don't really need it, you always use charcoal because it imitates a feature mark, like a natural burn or deep tannin spot, it work on any floor and unless you are eyeballing every square inch of floor like a nut, it will never be noticed as a blemishe.
@@youtubestaffaretrash9258 What about answering my question? LOL "Are you saying that this method of fixing the floor with stretchy caulking has routinely been practiced in the industry?"
@@youtubestaffaretrash9258 I understand that a professional would not have made the mistake in the first place but I think this video is more of a tutorial for people who did not have a professional level the subfloor and need something to address the problem as a fix rather than tearing up the entire floor, leveling, and replacing.
Thanks for the helpful video! A couple of suggestions based on my experience. First, I agree with the person who suggested putting tape over the place where the hole will be drilled. Actually, have the inch around the hole taped to facilitate cleanup. Second, cut the needle to about 1.25" long. I just clipped it in my first attempt, as shown in the video. I didn't realize I was pushing down unevenly, twisting the needle, and bending and weakening it at that point. It wasn't long before the caulk started leaking from where it bent. Third, if you push down and the plunger goes almost without resistance, the gasket around the base of the push lever needs to be set correctly because caulk is coming out over the plunger, not through the needle! Fourth, wear disposable gloves because if the third situation happens, it will get messy!
Big thanks for this video mate - sorted out a sagging floorboard in my kitchen by drilling 5 small holes and filling with a hardwood colored flooring specific 'no more gaps' product. Much better option than having my kitchen ripped up and re-laid (which is what the retailer and original installer recommended). LOL :P
Thank you sooo much ! As a new home owner it's always good to have such great pro tip videos up your sleeves. This video is a defenite keeper in my books. Appreciate you so much. Thank you !
He doesn’t know what he is talking about . This is not the correct procedure. This is a floating floor and MUST be free to move . Gluing it will cause further problems.
Thanks for the excellent video. I found this after seeing some similar videos, but yours is soo great, thanks. I had a few issues which i think will help others in the future. 1) Sealant/Caulking product recommendation: I'm in Australia and we don't have DAP products here. The most flexible stretchy sealant I could get was 35% (H.B. Fuller® FulaFlex™ 550LM Polyurethane Joint Sealant). However, I'm confident that this will allow enough contraction and expansion in my area. 2) Viscosity of sealant: 2.a) The sealant I used was to viscous to come out of a 5mm meat marinade injector, at least I didn't have the strength to push it through and I could see failing, so I ended up using a caulking gun with the end of the nozzle which fitted snug in a 5mm drilled hole. 2.b) I couldn't get the sealant to fill the voids nicely, I inserted as much as I could before was unable to push anymore in. This helped fill the worst spots which I'm pretty happy with, but had to drill more holes than i had hoped. I might try in the future to find a product that is less viscous and flows easier to allow it to dissipate under the floorboards. 3) Filling the drilled holes: I tried your solution in this video and confirm it works, however i wasn't happy with the finish and as I had more holes I ended up landing on another solution which I think works perfectly. I bought a 5mm leather hole wad punch, and used this to hammer out exact fitting plugs from a spare piece of floorboard (I have 8mm thick laminate engineered floorboards with cork on the base). I then simply used some glue and inserted the plugs into the holes. Any evidence of the holes completed disappeared, takes a long hard look to even find where the holes were. Thanks again 👍
Crazy... Crazy good! I do flooring, professionally, I've always tore the floors up when I discovered a soft spot and relaid them... I also have a different method of patching holes and gaps, I use wood putty, and stain markers, or shavings like you did...
Had I known this hollow thing would've happened with vinyl flooring, I would've installed real hardwood floor. But thank you for putting put my hollow misery! No more depressing squoosh.
We found your video very helpful. We just put LVP down after removing carpet. Levelling was done in most of the rooms where it was detected. After LVP was installed, we're finding some soft spots in places. Some cause clicking, when the soft spot is under a plank connection. We will be following your method. Already ordered a couple of injectors and getting the stretch caulking. Thank you!
Excellent repair ! I have a low spot in my hallway that has engineered hardwood that needs fixing, now I am confident I can do it myself using the Dap Big Stretch and the Cookment kit . I will found 1/8 dowels at Hobby Lobby and I have matching stain I use for scratches to cover the tops of the dowels. Thank You !
Great video. I followed your directions but added the help of the caulk gun by nestling in the syringe into the space where the caulk tube fits. It made it a lot easier to express caulk out of the tube. I also ordered a trephine (dental implant) drill bit to make 1/8” cores of sample plank to fill in the hole spaces. I won’t get it for a week, so I’ll tape up the holes after drying the caulk until then. Thanks for the technique.
@@dimepia123 Yes, but just small 1/8th inch wide circular cores cut out of the sample boards. I used light, medium and dark colored ones to match the holes I drilled.
@@larrydrum Very meticulous, amazing! Did you also make two holes prior to filling up the space with glue, the second hole being used for the trapped air to exit or you didn't need to?
@@dimepia123 Yes I did. I also used the solder to blend and hold the cores in place. Regarding the holes, I found I had to make more than I expected. The caulk didn’t flow laterally that well. Maybe next time, I’ll use a rubber mallet to help it along.
Great tips. I can't wait to try it in the morning. I love your videos. The best I've seen so far. Im remodeling a fixer upper mobile home for my dad. I'm not skilled at all so I feel I'm reinventing the wheel until now. There is still lots to do but after finishing the flooring and the trim, the fromt room will be done. So glad i found your videos. I was at a standstill. I have air pockets in the flooring and I cant seem to get the last row of the flooring to fit tight. After watching your videos I'm pretty confident that i can do it. Thank you so much
Floating subfloor prior would be the best bet but this is extremely clever. I am sure I will use this as I am a floor guy that has a high focus on repairs. Big money doing what others won't make time to do. Just a tip for the aging floor guys that can't do the up and down all day everyday. ....Do repairs. 🙂
This method worked great. After two flooring guys attempted correction I did it myself. The meat injector is not of high quality but it was cheap. Hold the body of the syringe instead of the finger holds. Might use a metal injector if it’s a big job. Great info, thanks!
This is a great idea. Almost impossible to get a perfect floor without dips or unevenness. Can you still use this solution if you have a foam underlayment barrier between subfloor & the vinyl plank?
Very nice video that helped fix a 6" x 6" soft spot beneath my newly laid LVP floor. Used a full tube of the Big Stretch, but after two days is rock-solid. Like others have stated, the suggested injector is really a rotten piece of made-in-China garbage; however, it's probably not made to push something as thick as caulk. After a lot of fiddling with the injector I got it to work satisfactorily. Great job nevertheless!
That looks incredible, great work!!! I need to do this on my new floors in a few spots, so relieved I can copy this method, hopefully half as good as you.
Where was this videos 3 months ago?? I had a guy come out and made my floors worst than they were before he worked on it. There’s little hills everywhere he drilled & put adhesive. He used some kind of JB Wield. I’m going to follow your instructions & hopefully I can fix my floors myself. Thanks for the awesome video man!
Oh no! I’m sorry to hear what happened 😢 I hope you get your floor fixed with this method. Keep me updated on how it turned out, best of luck my friend 🙏🏽
Thanks for the video. I had a floor "professionally installed" about a year ago. Two hollow spots the broke the lower halves of the female sections of the click mechanisms. One right in front of the fridge and the other right in the middle of a high traffic area. They refused to fix it so I refused to pay them for the labor and prep. Anyhow, I watched this video and went into my garage. I saw a tube of liquid nails and one of those adaptors that you use to fill up a football. I cut the angled hole off the adaptor to make it straight. I then cut the tip of the liquid nails tube just a little smaller than the male threads on the adaptor. Slightly heated the caulking tube end, with a lighter, to make it just flexible enough to press the adaptor threads into it. This eliminated the need for the injector from Amazon. The liquid nails that I used is this enough to flow through that little pin so the holes that I drilled were tiny. The liquid nails also matches my LVT. Also, one of the planks sat low. Instead of a suction cup, I ground the point off of a wood screw and threaded into a hole and screwed it in until the, now blunt, end of the screw bottomed out on the subfloor and lifter the plank up to the proper level. I should add that there is a plastic vapor barrier between the plywood subfloor and LVT so, I don't think adhesion will be an issue that concerns the expansion and contraction of the planks. I just hope the liquid nails set up in a timely manner. Fingers crossed.
Great info and solutions. One thing to note is that not all LVP/ laminate flooring can be slid apart at the end joints without damaging the locking mechanism. If your flooring is drop lock you will want to use the drill method shown in this video.
These are some really great tips! Thank you! As a 35-year home improvement professional, it is my suspicion that the caulking that you used will have similar if not better adhesive properties than the wood glue would have (maybe better). The elastomeric properties you described for the caulk would not be applicable in a sandwiched 2-surface adhesion situation like this one. In other words, it will probably not allow movement of the flooring. The wood glue will bond to the subfloor, but it will probably de-bond from the vinyl backing of the flooring over time. Probably easier to inject also.
Hey Scooter, good point. I have a similar situation at my home- I did all the LVP myself so it's ultimately my fault for not perfectly leveling the floor. So is your ultimate take on this kind of fix to use wood glue, or would you try some other compressable liquid?
@@ychongy the best way is to carry out an experiment with different materials - caulk, glue and foam and see how they behave once cured between 2 pieces of wood prior to injecting them under the flooring. Just use 2 scrap laminate or vinyl pieces to simulate the process and then make a decision from there.
So we just installed laminate plank flooring and we do have a few spots that are hollow. I suggested to my husband that we inject something through the floor to fix it and he said “that’s possible to do, it just has to stay the way it is”. HA! I may not, until now, have known how to do it, but it made sense that it could be done. I’ll fix the floor…..then show him your video. Thank you for this you rock. ❤
You can also just drop a golf ball from 3-4’ and you will hear a ‘thunk’ if there is air in the hollow spot. You will hear a distinct ‘clink’ if there is no air in the hollow spot.
This worked out well for me. The oinly thing I did different was to utilize a chipped overlapping edge to access below the floor. I then glued the edge back down, because I had no replacement planks
We have learned some very important simple fixes! Thank you. Now how do you fix horizontal gaps? We have noticed shifting apart which implies we didn’t get the locking in place.
Great instructional video, would you recommend using a suction device and slightly lifting unglued area while drilling the holes? May help to not drill into sub floor.
Great video on how to fix that situation. The best idea is to thoroughly inspect the base material for any potential gaps and level appropriately. Preparation work is the key.
First to come up and first to know what I was trying to find and so, best way to introduce this video of you being a PROFESSIONAL! Thank you n best believe I'm subscribing and Like.
Question for Fix This House: you published this video on Oct 31, 2021. Today is Nov 30, 2021. It's only one month later but would you comment or provide a follow up on how this repaired area is doing? I have encountered this exact scenario in your video; the flooring is over a concrete slab. Before I drill-and-fill, I'd like to know how yours has done. Thanks for the video.
I can tell you it failed for me, lesson learned. I should have used some self leveler before putting down LVPF since its soo thin and doesnt hold up if the floor sags at all.
Thank you so much for this video!!! A hollow spot recently developed in a high traffic area and it drives me nuts! Can’t wait to try it. I have the exact same floors
Any recommendations for a newly laid LVP floor? Our interlocking floating LVP was installed over a month ago and we’ve had the flooring company out to our house again twice to discuss the hollow spots and they just keep telling us to “let the floor settle” and they want us to wait a few more months before they rip up our floor and add expensive concrete leveler. Looking to not rip up the whole floor and not pay them an extra $2000
Hi! Yes vinyl flooring (floating click system) will take time to settle to your subfloor. This will take weeks to a few months because it’s getting acclimated with your surrounding environment due to temperature change. Also if it is a very deep hollow spot that might be a problem (like the one in the video is 3/8” deep in some areas) you might want to try this technique on my video. Or if you can separate the planks and apply the compound yourself that would work as well. But just give it some time to settle and assess from there. 🙏🏽
Sorry but if a company did the install knowing the floor was unlevel i sure as hell wouldnt pay 2k for them not knowing what theyre doing just my two cents lol
I've been installing every type of flooring there is for over two decades. The very first thing I do is acess the condition of the surface where the flooring is being installed. Wether it be repairs needed or more importantly to ensure the surface is level before I do the actual installation. As a contractor, i would have noticed this issue during inspection and explained to the customer what the issue is, the best solution, and of course the additional cost to correct....why it wasn't done this way in you situation is puzzling. Refer back to your contract to see who is responsible for the added cost to correct any issues after installation.
@@abdal-haqq1688 the problem is no days it’s just about how fast can we get the job done. Just had our house built in January and have lvp floating with major hollow spots. What’s their go to answer? “The house has to settle” well it’s been 11 months and the spots are even worse than they were before. Our 1yr inspection is soon and I put in the notes that the floors need to be fix/replaced and they said they won’t cause there isn’t anything to do about it.... this is where my lawyer comes in now
@@bradracine3426 I truly understand. This is where it's very important to only deal with contractors that were recommended or you have seen their work personally. You can't do any "List" or advisor because you really don't know what you're getting. When the estimate is done for you're project, this is the phase where you ask any questions you may have...there are no such things as dumb questions. If you decide to employ this contractor make sure he goes over the contract with you section by section. If there is anything you don't understand...ask! At this point,you are not obligated to sign. Take a few days to have someone else you know who is knowledgeable in contracts to take a look and remember, there are two parts to a contract...1. the work to be done and 2. The after care and warranty and who's responsible for what.
I tried this and drilled through a water pipe. after I left room I got a call saying The whole room was filled with water. It is now an indoor swimming pool and the value of the house has gone up by £45k
theres a lot of idiots on here commenting "you should level the floor to begin with..." NO SH!T Captain Obvious! This is for people who already had their floors installed and didnt get it done properly.
mark the drill bit with marker or piece of tape so you don't drill too deep if your not experienced at this sort of thing this was good info for people even a non handy person could follow this and be successful
Aha !! I have just such a floor with just such a problem. When you walk on the spot it creaks also. I've been leaving it alone until I find a way to fix it. Now I know a way to fix it !!
100% legit. I tried the window foam insulation and the DAP stretch. DAP is far superior, solid as a rock. Foam has a bit of give to it. I didnt use the suction to lift up so injecting DAP can be a pain and messy if your plunger is not flush with barrel all around. Tried and tested with 260 lbs.
@@FixThisHouse thank you, sir! You saved me from a failed self leveling concrete that i didnt realize had drained below subfloor around bathtub. No more soft spots.
Excellent video and very helpful. We followed your directions, and our soft spots (vinyl plank) feel 100% better now. But you make it look a lot easier than it is, as far as pushing the caulk out of the injector tube. We finally got a system going that worked well, and I'm so thankful we found your video.
Thank you so much! I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
It helps to warm it up, also, I used needles meant for livestock...
@@FixThisHousedo you think there's a limit to how many spots you can use this on in a house?
@@rickygreer1727 Warm what up? The caulk?
What is your long term experience?
40 yrs. as a license flooring contractor in LA. I have to say, this is the best repair technics I ever seen. CONGRATULATIONS!!
you gotta love youtube :))
Making plugs out of a scrap vynl is better less risk of damaging a board especially one that's in center of room burning pieces it doesn't work long term from experience on fixing people doing this
@@Kindaokcarpentry thank you. thank you
Where in LA are you? I may need your services. I am in Slidell. Thanks
@@ernestocaamano7818 Hi Ernesto, I was in the area of Beverly Hills, Santa Monica, Downton for the commercial jobs, and I say 60 to 70% of my business was new homes in the Santa Clarita, ventura, oxnard, SimiVALLEY etc. I moved to SA Texas 6 yrs ago and was running my business from here, and going once a month to check things with my guys.Becouse the COVID and other reasons the companies that I had contract for the new homes lost the contract with LENNAR, and DR HORTON. I decided to close doors, and retire here in TX. If you need some contacts for some work I can give you a couple of names of guys that used to work for me. REGARDS.
I did multiple Google searches, browsed r/ flooring subreddit, spoke to a pro flooring store owner, and a long time handyman. All said the same thing. Rip out the flooring to the point where the vinyl tiles broke and reinstall.
There are other videos that similar to yours but yours is the best. You didn't use a brand name kit like Fix-a-Floor but to use what can easily be found and can be reused later. Fix-a-Floor kit has to be ordered online. Only the caulk tube is available at HD. You also provided a shopping list. Thank you.
Great video! I read through all the comments and ran an experiment. I clamped a LVP plank to plywood and tried wood glue VS Big Stretch Caulk. Findings: Big Stretch created a strong bond to the pad attached to the the LVP plank and plywood. Wood glue bonded to the plywood but only created a weak bond the padding on the LVP. This bond was so weak that any expansion of the floor will break the bond and allow the plank to float as designed. Also note the wood glue dry time was way faster. I am planning to use wood glue and break the bond by using a suction cup to pull the planks up after the glue cures. Also, plastic welding did not go well for me I found that Robert’s Caulk worked great to fill the practice holes. I did use a heat gun with the caulk as it made it more pliable to work with. One additional tip is to use a suction cup or tape to pull the floor up the flooring when drilling so you don’t drill into the subfloor.
Exactly what I was thinking that Big Stretch would definitely glue a floor down where the wood glue is only going to stick to the wood floor and probably not to the backing pad of your vinyl plank so you save me the time I'm having to do that experiment thank you
Hey Remington, How did the wood glue hold up? Any issues with your floor after putting it in?
Did you try the wood glue? If so, how did it work?@@MADDOG100ful
Did you try the wood glue?
Great video! One piece of feedback is to add blue tape over the drill spot before drilling the holes. This way when you fill the holes, the tape serves to protect the area around the hole. Similar to using it before nailing trim to the wall
I was going to make the same comment. Smearing caulking over the face of the laminate to wipe it off made me cringe...
Ah yes, blue tape over the hole to protect more from the soldering iron as well. Thats a great addition!
Nothing really sticks to the face of laminate
35 year flooring installer and always learning. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for the love and support especially from a pro! 🙏🏽😊
We just moved into a new house and have 3 soft spots that are driving me crazy with LVP flooring. I had been searching for repair videos for a while and todays yours popped up. Excellent job with straight to the point instructions, thank you sir!
Thank you so much for the love and feedback! 👍🏽😊
VERY relatable... Likewise, thank you!
Were you able to fix it. I am having same issue with my flooring
This saved me literally 1500 dollars at my last apartment. My kids bathroom was horrible, I did this and it worked🤗
Thank you. Excellent video. I would recommend using a level to judge how much upward deflection you have as you fill the void and then use it to push it down flat...then let it dry. I wouldn't use a bucket on it and potentially create another low spot. Your hole patching instruction is great.
All of your videos on repairing vinyl planking were helpful. I purchased the tools your recommended and all went well. I purchased a adhesive which was colored to match my flooring and this made it even easier to fix without leaving any sign of my work. Keep up the good work.
@@dennischaput3650 us the repair holding up still?
How is it doing now?
I've been installing for 21 yrs, we actually have needle kits with smaller needles and a special liquid filler and dowel pegs for this.
You have the right idea. The sodering iron is a bad idea. Just use wood dowel pegs, knock it in with the small hammer, break it off, knock it in a little below the surface with a nail puncher, then fill with matching vinyl putty
Care to share names of the kits and liquid filler?
@@MILKMANDELIVERIES I would also like to know
Wow. I just finished installing some LVP and the baseboards, and after all said and done, I had noticed there were two pockets. This is gonna save me a lot of time and energy and headache thank you!
Wow! What a great idea. I've been sitting here feeling so defeated from the discovery of a hollow spot I my newly installed engineered hardwood. Was planning to take it all back up to get to the spot and fill it with leveling compound. This will save me a ton of time and headache (wife will be glad too). Cool!
Call you installer his job to fix hollow spots !! He should have checked slab / subfloor prior to install
Omg I thought I was the only one had this bad issue. I'm experiencing the same with my flooring, newly installed and felt so defeated.
@@Bird2-2-20 What if it was DIY and they are the installer? Who do they call. BAHAHAHA
I cannot thank you enough for posting this video. Everything worked as expected. I had a pretty sizable mini-hump under one small row in a transition spot where there was some house settling. I didn't floor level there, which I prob should have but forgot to. This took care of it and it even looks better to the eye when you look at it (It was starting to show a small dip). Solid as a rock and event now. Thanks again!
I have essentially the same problem to solve. Would you willing to chat before I try mine?
😂….a total coincidence. My house is a Vaughn Construction build. The crack drives me crazy. My wife says I “feel” with my feet.
Your advice would be greatly appreciated!
Ron
Here I am, 6 months later after you posted this awesome instructional video and I can not thank you enough! But hey, thank you very much! We just bought a brand new home and the floor has soft spots in many areas. Again, thank you!🙏
Question the soft spot is completely gone?
Stumbled across one of your videos and saw this. No fluff, just straight to the point. Subscribed.
Very happy to have found this. A friend just had some work done on her house by a contractor hired from a home improvement store. They fouled up several things, including the installation of the floor. This solution is exactly what I need! Thanks very much.
I’m glad I could be of help! Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Damn so helpful. I was stressed the eff out after my install. Thank you from a fellow Pinoy.
Walang Anoman Pare Ko 👊🏽😎
Dude, you killed it with this video. No fluff, just VALUE!!! Thank you.
Thank you so much!! 🙏🏽😊 Have a great weekend my Friend!
Great video. Well done.
You could also use a wax crayons of a few different colors that closely match the flooring color. 👍
I tried this and the Extreme Stretch never cured. 3 weeks later I had to remove the flooring, self level, and reinstall flooring. Was still wet like I just filled it. Though this didn't work for me, I hope it works for others. Love your videos!
That's what I was thinking, that it would never cure.
I cannot express how grateful i am for this video. You saved me a ton of headache and the warping floor was driving me nuts every time I stepped on it. Thank you so much!
That soldering iron trick is some next level stuff. Good info, solid video. Thanks
You should offer courses, you're an excellent teacher and your techniques are awesome, thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you so much for filming this video. I took my time injecting the Extreme Stretch , put 2 paint cans over the fixed spot for 2 weeks until it set and voila! My floor feels 100% firmer now. I appreciate you!
Just curious, how is it holding up 1 year later?
@@bmiller8461 It's just like the day I did it. I have used it on a second floor since then too and no problems on that one either.
@kristin8809 so, contrary to what others are saying that it could cause issues with the expanding and contracting of the vinyl flooring, you haven't experienced any problems with expanding/contracting planks?
@@bmiller8461 None at all. Repairs were lvp on concrete slab if that helps.
@@kristin8809 I had the same problem right now. I had vinyl on-click floor on the self-leveling compound (I dont know if the translation is great but some "cement" that should self level). Sadly, but the compound has some pits, and vinyls are not laying on the compound directly there which creates a hollow spots and the irritating noise when walking on it
Don't you have any problems with caulk drying? I'm wondering about applying the method from the video but I have doubts about the drying..
Thank you so much!!! We had flooring installed and a few months later we had floating areas. Our installer was in a serious accident breaking his pelvis. I figured we were just stuck. Did I mention…. THANK YOU! Bravo on the video.
yo dude you're a genius because I was stuck!!!
Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
Your expertise in addressing and resolving issues is characterized by meticulous attention to detail and comprehensive techniques. Awesome video, as always.
I have the exact vinyl floor, even the same color. I have a hollow spot that I assumed would require ripping apart the flooring so I just learned to live with it, then I accidentally came across this video and now I have confidence I can fix it for free! Thank you!
I’m glad I could be of help and I hope this method will solve your problem 🙏🏽😊
I had never thought about doing something like this to fix low spots- brilliant! Thanks for the video, after 25 Years of remodeling I still learn something new every Day... I can't remodel anymore though, got a permanently bad shoulder that keeps me from using it for much more than everyday stuff. I still work on stuff, just very slowly over long periods due to the shoulder so I can't make money remodeling anymore. Still, this will help me improve a couple spots in our basement :D
Ok so I know you are a professional, I understand that, I am aswell, your work is genuine. This is more of a seasoned industry secret. So always keep a pin nail or thin tack nail in your pouch, if you place it in your drill as a bit it actually works better then a normal drill bit because it heat drills through the surface leaving a natural edge, then to fill the hole get some charcoal from any art store and a wax block for flooring, place crushed charcoal on other surface and rub the wax end through it, tell it blends in the wax, then take the wax and fill the hole, you can use a sealer, dull nail coat(nail polish works well) although the wax will harden on its own so you don't really need it, you always use charcoal because it imitates a feature mark, like a natural burn or deep tannin spot, it work on any floor and unless you are eyeballing every square inch of floor like a nut, it will never be noticed as a blemishe.
Are you saying that this method of fixing the floor with stretchy caulking has routinely been practiced in the industry?
@@youtubestaffaretrash9258 what???
@@youtubestaffaretrash9258 What about answering my question? LOL "Are you saying that this method of fixing the floor with stretchy caulking has routinely been practiced in the industry?"
@@youtubestaffaretrash9258 I understand that a professional would not have made the mistake in the first place but I think this video is more of a tutorial for people who did not have a professional level the subfloor and need something to address the problem as a fix rather than tearing up the entire floor, leveling, and replacing.
Thanks for the helpful video! A couple of suggestions based on my experience. First, I agree with the person who suggested putting tape over the place where the hole will be drilled. Actually, have the inch around the hole taped to facilitate cleanup. Second, cut the needle to about 1.25" long. I just clipped it in my first attempt, as shown in the video. I didn't realize I was pushing down unevenly, twisting the needle, and bending and weakening it at that point. It wasn't long before the caulk started leaking from where it bent. Third, if you push down and the plunger goes almost without resistance, the gasket around the base of the push lever needs to be set correctly because caulk is coming out over the plunger, not through the needle! Fourth, wear disposable gloves because if the third situation happens, it will get messy!
The ending with the solder gun was Sick. Well done you should be proud of your skills.
Thank you so much! I’m glad you found that technique useful 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Big thanks for this video mate - sorted out a sagging floorboard in my kitchen by drilling 5 small holes and filling with a hardwood colored flooring specific 'no more gaps' product. Much better option than having my kitchen ripped up and re-laid (which is what the retailer and original installer recommended). LOL :P
Thank you sooo much ! As a new home owner it's always good to have such great pro tip videos up your sleeves. This video is a defenite keeper in my books. Appreciate you so much. Thank you !
I’m so glad I could be of help! And thank you so much!
I use mud bucket as weight allot too. Thanks for tips
He doesn’t know what he is talking about . This is not the correct procedure. This is a floating floor and MUST be free to move . Gluing it will cause further problems.
Thanks for the excellent video. I found this after seeing some similar videos, but yours is soo great, thanks.
I had a few issues which i think will help others in the future.
1) Sealant/Caulking product recommendation: I'm in Australia and we don't have DAP products here. The most flexible stretchy sealant I could get was 35% (H.B. Fuller® FulaFlex™ 550LM Polyurethane Joint Sealant). However, I'm confident that this will allow enough contraction and expansion in my area.
2) Viscosity of sealant:
2.a) The sealant I used was to viscous to come out of a 5mm meat marinade injector, at least I didn't have the strength to push it through and I could see failing, so I ended up using a caulking gun with the end of the nozzle which fitted snug in a 5mm drilled hole.
2.b) I couldn't get the sealant to fill the voids nicely, I inserted as much as I could before was unable to push anymore in. This helped fill the worst spots which I'm pretty happy with, but had to drill more holes than i had hoped. I might try in the future to find a product that is less viscous and flows easier to allow it to dissipate under the floorboards.
3) Filling the drilled holes: I tried your solution in this video and confirm it works, however i wasn't happy with the finish and as I had more holes I ended up landing on another solution which I think works perfectly. I bought a 5mm leather hole wad punch, and used this to hammer out exact fitting plugs from a spare piece of floorboard (I have 8mm thick laminate engineered floorboards with cork on the base). I then simply used some glue and inserted the plugs into the holes. Any evidence of the holes completed disappeared, takes a long hard look to even find where the holes were.
Thanks again 👍
Crazy... Crazy good! I do flooring, professionally, I've always tore the floors up when I discovered a soft spot and relaid them... I also have a different method of patching holes and gaps, I use wood putty, and stain markers, or shavings like you did...
Thank you 🙏🏽! Means a lot coming from a pro! 👍🏽😊
Do you think plastic wood would work with the holes in lvp, and then I could just stain the plastic wood to match the flooring?
Had I known this hollow thing would've happened with vinyl flooring, I would've installed real hardwood floor. But thank you for putting put my hollow misery! No more depressing squoosh.
Vinyl is actually very strong and last long, it’s just needs proper prep and leveling before laying down. Thank you so much for watching 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Man o man, you are awesome!!!! You rock!! I had problem with my floor. You saved me so much money and also helped me fix my floor. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much for the awesome feedback! I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
We found your video very helpful. We just put LVP down after removing carpet. Levelling was done in most of the rooms where it was detected. After LVP was installed, we're finding some soft spots in places. Some cause clicking, when the soft spot is under a plank connection. We will be following your method. Already ordered a couple of injectors and getting the stretch caulking. Thank you!
How'd it go? I'm about to do this in a few hours
@@TheDrunkHamster It went well. Did exactly what he showed. We had to do 6 different soft spots. Good luck!
Excellent repair ! I have a low spot in my hallway that has engineered hardwood that needs fixing, now I am confident I can do it myself using the Dap Big Stretch and the Cookment kit . I will found 1/8 dowels at Hobby Lobby and I have matching stain I use for scratches to cover the tops of the dowels. Thank You !
Did you patch the drill holes the same way he did? I wasn't too sure if it would work on the engineered wood as opposed to the plastic stuff.
wouldnt this fellier just pool on top of the moisture barrier/under layment?
Great video. I followed your directions but added the help of the caulk gun by nestling in the syringe into the space where the caulk tube fits. It made it a lot easier to express caulk out of the tube. I also ordered a trephine (dental implant) drill bit to make 1/8” cores of sample plank to fill in the hole spaces. I won’t get it for a week, so I’ll tape up the holes after drying the caulk until then. Thanks for the technique.
wait so you'll put the sample plank to cover the hole instead of soldering the plastic like in the video?
@@dimepia123 Yes, but just small 1/8th inch wide circular cores cut out of the sample boards. I used light, medium and dark colored ones to match the holes I drilled.
@@larrydrum Very meticulous, amazing!
Did you also make two holes prior to filling up the space with glue, the second hole being used for the trapped air to exit or you didn't need to?
@@dimepia123 Yes I did. I also used the solder to blend and hold the cores in place. Regarding the holes, I found I had to make more than I expected. The caulk didn’t flow laterally that well. Maybe next time, I’ll use a rubber mallet to help it along.
Two clever ideas! 1) the caulking gun assist and 2) the cores made with the dental drill. Thanks for the ideas.
Great tips. I can't wait to try it in the morning. I love your videos. The best I've seen so far. Im remodeling a fixer upper mobile home for my dad. I'm not skilled at all so I feel I'm reinventing the wheel until now. There is still lots to do but after finishing the flooring and the trim, the fromt room will be done. So glad i found your videos. I was at a standstill. I have air pockets in the flooring and I cant seem to get the last row of the flooring to fit tight. After watching your videos I'm pretty confident that i can do it. Thank you so much
Thank you so much! I wish you well in your renovation project! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Floating subfloor prior would be the best bet but this is extremely clever. I am sure I will use this as I am a floor guy that has a high focus on repairs. Big money doing what others won't make time to do. Just a tip for the aging floor guys that can't do the up and down all day everyday. ....Do repairs. 🙂
Thank you 🙏🏽!
This method worked great. After two flooring guys attempted correction I did it myself.
The meat injector is not of high quality but it was cheap. Hold the body of the syringe instead of the finger holds.
Might use a metal injector if it’s a big job.
Great info, thanks!
That's a pro tip for sure. Great vid. Definitely didnt waste my time on that.
Thank you so much 🙏🏽😊!
@@FixThisHouse you're welcome.
And I bet the soldering gun will work on composite decking as well for any mishaps and what not.
2 years later... still relevant, Excellent teaching video. THANKS!
This is a great idea. Almost impossible to get a perfect floor without dips or unevenness. Can you still use this solution if you have a foam underlayment barrier between subfloor & the vinyl plank?
Very nice video that helped fix a 6" x 6" soft spot beneath my newly laid LVP floor. Used a full tube of the Big Stretch, but after two days is rock-solid. Like others have stated, the suggested injector is really a rotten piece of made-in-China garbage; however, it's probably not made to push something as thick as caulk. After a lot of fiddling with the injector I got it to work satisfactorily. Great job nevertheless!
Would this work if you had a underlayment pad under the floor?
Really great video. Have several bouncy areas on my laminate floor. Will follow the instructions here and confident it will work. Many thanks
Will this method still work with a concrete slab subfloor and vinyl plank flooring on top?
That looks incredible, great work!!! I need to do this on my new floors in a few spots, so relieved I can copy this method, hopefully half as good as you.
Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise with all of us!
Thank you so much for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Where was this videos 3 months ago?? I had a guy come out and made my floors worst than they were before he worked on it. There’s little hills everywhere he drilled & put adhesive. He used some kind of JB Wield. I’m going to follow your instructions & hopefully I can fix my floors myself. Thanks for the awesome video man!
Oh no! I’m sorry to hear what happened 😢 I hope you get your floor fixed with this method. Keep me updated on how it turned out, best of luck my friend 🙏🏽
Dude jb weld is extra strong adhesive used for sticking metal bits together. You should not have paid him sounds like he is a cowboy.
Wow! What a fantastic solution! Thank you for the great step-by-step!
Thank you so much! Glad I could
Be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Thanks for the video. I had a floor "professionally installed" about a year ago. Two hollow spots the broke the lower halves of the female sections of the click mechanisms. One right in front of the fridge and the other right in the middle of a high traffic area. They refused to fix it so I refused to pay them for the labor and prep. Anyhow, I watched this video and went into my garage. I saw a tube of liquid nails and one of those adaptors that you use to fill up a football. I cut the angled hole off the adaptor to make it straight. I then cut the tip of the liquid nails tube just a little smaller than the male threads on the adaptor. Slightly heated the caulking tube end, with a lighter, to make it just flexible enough to press the adaptor threads into it. This eliminated the need for the injector from Amazon. The liquid nails that I used is this enough to flow through that little pin so the holes that I drilled were tiny. The liquid nails also matches my LVT. Also, one of the planks sat low. Instead of a suction cup, I ground the point off of a wood screw and threaded into a hole and screwed it in until the, now blunt, end of the screw bottomed out on the subfloor and lifter the plank up to the proper level. I should add that there is a plastic vapor barrier between the plywood subfloor and LVT so, I don't think adhesion will be an issue that concerns the expansion and contraction of the planks. I just hope the liquid nails set up in a timely manner. Fingers crossed.
Great info and solutions. One thing to note is that not all LVP/ laminate flooring can be slid apart at the end joints without damaging the locking mechanism. If your flooring is drop lock you will want to use the drill method shown in this video.
Thank you for sharing! 👍🏽😊
One of the coolest videos I’ve ever watched in floating floors.
These are some really great tips! Thank you! As a 35-year home improvement professional, it is my suspicion that the caulking that you used will have similar if not better adhesive properties than the wood glue would have (maybe better). The elastomeric properties you described for the caulk would not be applicable in a sandwiched 2-surface adhesion situation like this one. In other words, it will probably not allow movement of the flooring. The wood glue will bond to the subfloor, but it will probably de-bond from the vinyl backing of the flooring over time. Probably easier to inject also.
Hey Scooter, good point. I have a similar situation at my home- I did all the LVP myself so it's ultimately my fault for not perfectly leveling the floor. So is your ultimate take on this kind of fix to use wood glue, or would you try some other compressable liquid?
Any follow up answer to this?
@@ychongy the best way is to carry out an experiment with different materials - caulk, glue and foam and see how they behave once cured between 2 pieces of wood prior to injecting them under the flooring. Just use 2 scrap laminate or vinyl pieces to simulate the process and then make a decision from there.
For what it's worth, the Big Stretch Caulk advertises it stretches up to 500% once cured.
That solder iron trick is a game changer. Thanks!
Overtime, will the vinyl adapt to the floor? I have a good amount of hallow space bc I failed to level the floor :(
So we just installed laminate plank flooring and we do have a few spots that are hollow. I suggested to my husband that we inject something through the floor to fix it and he said “that’s possible to do, it just has to stay the way it is”. HA! I may not, until now, have known how to do it, but it made sense that it could be done. I’ll fix the floor…..then show him your video. Thank you for this you rock. ❤
You can also just drop a golf ball from 3-4’ and you will hear a ‘thunk’ if there is air in the hollow spot. You will hear a distinct ‘clink’ if there is no air in the hollow spot.
That’s great advice! Thank you for sharing! 🙏🏽😊
This worked out well for me. The oinly thing I did different was to utilize a chipped overlapping edge to access below the floor. I then glued the edge back down, because I had no replacement planks
We have learned some very important simple fixes! Thank you. Now how do you fix horizontal gaps? We have noticed shifting apart which implies we didn’t get the locking in place.
Stay tuned! I have a video on that coming out soon 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Dang, the plastic welding is genius! Thanks!
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Brilliant! Thank you for showing us how. This is an excellent video!
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽👍🏽
Wow! First time I see someone propose a solution to hollow plank spot wow
Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
Great instructional video, would you recommend using a suction device and slightly lifting unglued area while drilling the holes? May help to not drill into sub floor.
That will work too! 👍🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse thank you!
Great video on how to fix that situation. The best idea is to thoroughly inspect the base material for any potential gaps and level appropriately. Preparation work is the key.
pro tip - use a shop vac and apply suction to the other hole. ;)
Nice! I’ll try that next time
What would be the European version of the product used to fill the gaps? Can’t understand if this is some sort of silicon.
I will definitely give this a try! Do you have any spots that click when you step on them?
Yes I do, that’s due to the broken click system, I’ll make a video on how to fix that. Stay tuned 🙏🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse heck yes, can't wait!!
@@FixThisHouse can't wait for that video!
First to come up and first to know what I was trying to find and so, best way to introduce this video of you being a PROFESSIONAL! Thank you n best believe I'm subscribing and Like.
This one time, I installed lvp and noticed the floor had a low spot so I actually prepped the floor by skim coating the dip. 😮
Do it right the first time
100% proper awesome
You're more knowledgeable than the contractors that worked on my house. Thank you!
🙏🏽😊 thank you so much!
Awesome tip! Would you recommend the extreme stretch and big stretch for solid hardwood floor?
Thank you! Only if it’s a tongue and grove floating floor 👍🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse Got it!! Thank you!!!
This is EXCELLENT!!! Clear. Simple. Well explained. Great video. Thank you!
Question for Fix This House: you published this video on Oct 31, 2021. Today is Nov 30, 2021. It's only one month later but would you comment or provide a follow up on how this repaired area is doing? I have encountered this exact scenario in your video; the flooring is over a concrete slab. Before I drill-and-fill, I'd like to know how yours has done. Thanks for the video.
Hi! Ofcourse! I’ll do a follow up video.
I can tell you it failed for me, lesson learned. I should have used some self leveler before putting down LVPF since its soo thin and doesnt hold up if the floor sags at all.
Thank you so much for this video!!! A hollow spot recently developed in a high traffic area and it drives me nuts! Can’t wait to try it. I have the exact same floors
I’m glad I can be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Any recommendations for a newly laid LVP floor? Our interlocking floating LVP was installed over a month ago and we’ve had the flooring company out to our house again twice to discuss the hollow spots and they just keep telling us to “let the floor settle” and they want us to wait a few more months before they rip up our floor and add expensive concrete leveler. Looking to not rip up the whole floor and not pay them an extra $2000
Hi! Yes vinyl flooring (floating click system) will take time to settle to your subfloor. This will take weeks to a few months because it’s getting acclimated with your surrounding environment due to temperature change. Also if it is a very deep hollow spot that might be a problem (like the one in the video is 3/8” deep in some areas) you might want to try this technique on my video. Or if you can separate the planks and apply the compound yourself that would work as well. But just give it some time to settle and assess from there. 🙏🏽
Sorry but if a company did the install knowing the floor was unlevel i sure as hell wouldnt pay 2k for them not knowing what theyre doing just my two cents lol
I've been installing every type of flooring there is for over two decades. The very first thing I do is acess the condition of the surface where the flooring is being installed. Wether it be repairs needed or more importantly to ensure the surface is level before I do the actual installation. As a contractor, i would have noticed this issue during inspection and explained to the customer what the issue is, the best solution, and of course the additional cost to correct....why it wasn't done this way in you situation is puzzling. Refer back to your contract to see who is responsible for the added cost to correct any issues after installation.
@@abdal-haqq1688 the problem is no days it’s just about how fast can we get the job done. Just had our house built in January and have lvp floating with major hollow spots. What’s their go to answer? “The house has to settle” well it’s been 11 months and the spots are even worse than they were before. Our 1yr inspection is soon and I put in the notes that the floors need to be fix/replaced and they said they won’t cause there isn’t anything to do about it.... this is where my lawyer comes in now
@@bradracine3426 I truly understand. This is where it's very important to only deal with contractors that were recommended or you have seen their work personally. You can't do any "List" or advisor because you really don't know what you're getting. When the estimate is done for you're project, this is the phase where you ask any questions you may have...there are no such things as dumb questions. If you decide to employ this contractor make sure he goes over the contract with you section by section. If there is anything you don't understand...ask!
At this point,you are not obligated to sign. Take a few days to have someone else you know who is knowledgeable in contracts to take a look and remember, there are two parts to a contract...1. the work to be done and 2. The after care and warranty and who's responsible for what.
About to try this now. Already attempted with the “fix a floor” glue but it’s way too runny and didn’t work at all.
Thanks for the video !!!
I tried this and drilled through a water pipe. after I left room I got a call saying The whole room was filled with water. It is now an indoor swimming pool and the value of the house has gone up by £45k
Dude,I was skeptical at first but you won me over.
Thank you 🙏🏽! 😊👍🏽
Best way to fill these spots is to do the job correctly the first time.
Anthony that would cost extra 😂
Such a simple solution. I'm going to try this. I like these easy fixes for my amateur hour house projects. Lol
Thank you for watching and your support! Wish you well on your project! 🙏🏽😊
theres a lot of idiots on here commenting "you should level the floor to begin with..." NO SH!T Captain Obvious! This is for people who already had their floors installed and didnt get it done properly.
You understood the assignment 👊🏽😊!
That soldering iron truck wirh the shavings is clutch my friend. Good work!
Pro tip: properly floor prep the area before laying the floor and you won't have this problem
Absolutely! I always make sure floor is level if not add some leveling cement. So much easier if you get it at the start.
He did day this could happen with wooden subfloors during house settling or come from seasonal movement.
mark the drill bit with marker or piece of tape so you don't drill too deep if your not experienced at this sort of thing this was good info for people even a non handy person could follow this and be successful
Thank you so much for the advice! And thank you for the kind comment! 🙏🏽😊
That repair was the best, I had an area that was bowing up but otherwise goof knowledge to have, thanks for the video
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽🙏🏽😊
Awesome video! The ceiling in my basement is unfinished, so do you think this method could be achieved working from the ceiling?
Aha !! I have just such a floor with just such a problem. When you walk on the spot it creaks also.
I've been leaving it alone until I find a way to fix it. Now I know a way to fix it !!
I’m glad I could be of help! Don’t hesitate to email me if you have further questions 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Holy crap this dude is smart as hell.
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
100% legit. I tried the window foam insulation and the DAP stretch. DAP is far superior, solid as a rock. Foam has a bit of give to it. I didnt use the suction to lift up so injecting DAP can be a pain and messy if your plunger is not flush with barrel all around. Tried and tested with 260 lbs.
Thank you! I’m glad I was able to help and it work led for you! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
@@FixThisHouse thank you, sir! You saved me from a failed self leveling concrete that i didnt realize had drained below subfloor around bathtub. No more soft spots.
Wow, great job smoothing the holes. Awesome tip.
Best solution so far. Thank u. Been looking for this as i have exact problems on my vinyl plank lol.
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
I’m going to use this on the laminate tile in my bathroom this week :)