I love it that you talk a lot. I fall asleep on videos that have less talking. You are very informative and have helped me realize that I need to think more about my project. I have been my own mechanic for years but you can never know too much. Thanks for keeping the videos coming often.
Hahaha, me too like the fact that this old man explains in depth. Not forget him on a drawing board. I like it when he says let's go to drawing board. That is where you will understand much more better Moshitoa south Africa
Steve whilst you are talking people are listening and learning you explain your projects you are working on is like a story telling how things should be done
As the BMW man in Munich would say "Das ist Wundervoll". With so much that you put into it, this car should be so good to drive. Just a detail, the fasteners on suspension hangers should not be lubricated, just clean and dry. Thanks for posting.
An excellent job done there Steve, One thing is certain, you would not get this attention to detail from a main dealer, they will charge huge amounts of money, but rush it through as fast as possible. Copper grease is a thing that I also use on all assemblies, it makes later disassembly much easier, (although I have never ha to take things apart again). It looks like there will be a future video on replacing the fixing on your Defender with an all stainless bolt kit, they do make it look a lot better, I also replaced the rear door hinge pins, but they are not included in the kit. Stay safe! Chris B.
@@D3Sshooter Mine also is 2003 TD5 CSW, the stainless steel fixings kit is well worth fitting, there are fixing that do not come with the kit though, like the rear door hinge pins, but they are available.
Flawless work! Just watched the whole serie and it was a top one! Just a small point, is that the surface between the hub and the disc should be free of paint, just a lick of copper grease if you want and both surfaces bare metal, it helps the alignment of the disc and avoid vibrations when braking. That is specially noticeable in the front axle but it is always good to have both surfaces clean... Best regards from a new subscriber!
tip: i always use tectyl ML on al the fasteners, bolts and nuts on the underside of the car, and when torqued down give them a little sneeze of the same stuff. Because the Tectyl ML is almost transparent it looks much cleaner, and the Tectyl ML doesn't wash away over time. 20 years later the bolts still come lose like yesterday installed.
Do you sometimes use a paint pen to mark which bolts you have torqued down? I find that helpful under the car otherwise I forget which ones I’ve done after a cup of tea.
A good way to hold the axle from turning is to install the brake rotor and caliper or caliper bracket and put a screw driver or punch in the rotor vent slots ( if you have a vented rotor that is) and rest the punch or screw driver against the bracket or caliper. That's the way I did it . Never had a problem. You can also use your bar and put the tranny jack under the end.
Steve you made a big mistake replacing the subframe bushings with OEM rubber. The rubber bushings are too soft, which then puts stress on the rear differential mount. The common replacement is using poly bushings like a Power flex bush.
Steve..tough task for you..could you please rank your top ten vehicles of all time? or ones that meant to most of you in your life? e.g. first one..etc...enjoy any and all content..ty
Thanks for the comments, This will be funny but here it is 1: Triumph Dolomite Sprint, 2: Triumph Spitfire 3: Lotus Elise 4: TVR 3000M 5: Mini Cooper 6: Triumph TR6 PI 7: Landrover defender TD5 8:Mazda RX7 9:MGB GT V8 10:Super Seven
Hi. Is it correct that the prop shaft has a slight play in horizontal way (from differential to the wheel)? I assume that it’s normal, as it has to let the suspension move. But could you please confirm that this is not an issue? Thanks.
When you torque down a greased bolt do you adjust the torque specs which are usually specified for a dry thread? I think the torque is generally reduced by 30% for a greased bolt.
That is correct, and I typical remove the grease from the treath before doing so... In fact I grease mainly shaft of the bold and not the actual area where the nut goes
@@D3Sshooter Thanks for your prompt reply. I found these references that may be of interest. www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html blog.fcpeuro.com/6-tips-for-effective-use-of-anti-seize
I don't agree with that Robert, as the bush is inside a metal piece (alu) , its that part that is pushed between the upper part on the cars frame and the nut at the bottom. There is no effect on the bush/rubber part. The only effect on the rubber bush is sideways movement of the axle... If I don't forget , I will show you that it makes no difference in the last video on this topic that is to come. You would be right , if that bush had a vertical elasticity but it does not Thanks for the comments
I love it that you talk a lot. I fall asleep on videos that have less talking. You are very informative and have helped me realize that I need to think more about my project. I have been my own mechanic for years but you can never know too much. Thanks for keeping the videos coming often.
Hahaha, me too like the fact that this old man explains in depth. Not forget him on a drawing board. I like it when he says let's go to drawing board. That is where you will understand much more better
Moshitoa south Africa
Thanks for the comments, Eddie and keep up that good work
@@m.b.smoshitoa8325 , txs pal
Hi Steve. Keep on talking to us. 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻Thanks a lot
Thanks for the comments,
Steve whilst you are talking people are listening and learning you explain your projects you are working on is like a story telling how things should be done
Sorry for the late reply , as i was away for work. But thanks for the comments.
As the BMW man in Munich would say "Das ist Wundervoll". With so much that you put into it, this car should be so good to drive. Just a detail, the fasteners on suspension hangers should not be lubricated, just clean and dry. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the comments, good point
I like that you share your thought process and reasoning with us.
Thanks for the comments Pat
Такого подхода я не видел нигде, ваше отношение к автомобилям заслуживает уважения))
Im really enjoying this series, it will be nice to see the end result of all the hard work...blood, sweat but hopefully no tears!
Sorry for the late reply , as i was away for work. But thanks for the comments.
Your voice is so soothing please keep it the way it is 👍👍👍
Sorry for the late reply , as i was away for work. But thanks for the comments.
@@D3Sshooter not a problem thanks for replying back sooner or later .always a pleasure sir.
I am really enjoying this series, Steve
Sorry for the late reply , as i was away for work. But thanks for the comments.
Steve, bushings, not bushes! Love the content. So many different projects.
In the UK, the term is interchangeable, either is correct.
@@BajaBill7 I didn't know that. Thanks.
Thanks for the comments tom for the correction
I like the videos just as they are.
Its interesting, relaxing and great viewing.
You have a great voice for presenting, not many do.
Thanks for the comments,
@@salvofarnia8046 Thanks for the comments,
I sometimes use string to pull springs into place then simply cut and pull out after install. works
Sorry for the late reply , as i was away for work. But thanks for the comments.
An excellent job done there Steve, One thing is certain, you would not get this attention to detail from a main dealer, they will charge huge amounts of money, but rush it through as fast as possible. Copper grease is a thing that I also use on all assemblies, it makes later disassembly much easier, (although I have never ha to take things apart again). It looks like there will be a future video on replacing the fixing on your Defender with an all stainless bolt kit, they do make it look a lot better, I also replaced the rear door hinge pins, but they are not included in the kit. Stay safe! Chris B.
Thanks for the comments, yep Chris my Def needs soon a bit of attention as its a 2003 TD5
@@D3Sshooter Mine also is 2003 TD5 CSW, the stainless steel fixings kit is well worth fitting, there are fixing that do not come with the kit though, like the rear door hinge pins, but they are available.
As always well thought out and clearly explained, very informative!
Thanks for the comments,
Flawless work! Just watched the whole serie and it was a top one!
Just a small point, is that the surface between the hub and the disc should be free of paint, just a lick of copper grease if you want and both surfaces bare metal, it helps the alignment of the disc and avoid vibrations when braking. That is specially noticeable in the front axle but it is always good to have both surfaces clean...
Best regards from a new subscriber!
Thanks for the comments and much appreciated
LOVE these videos! Great way to start my morning!
Thanks for the comments,
Making good progress, looking forward to your next video
Thanks for the comments,
tip: i always use tectyl ML on al the fasteners, bolts and nuts on the underside of the car, and when torqued down give them a little sneeze of the same stuff. Because the Tectyl ML is almost transparent it looks much cleaner, and the Tectyl ML doesn't wash away over time.
20 years later the bolts still come lose like yesterday installed.
Sorry for the late reply , as i was away for work. But thanks for the comments.
The smaller shafts are called half shafts not propshafts! Good idea on the anti seize.
Thanks for the comments,
Great quality video in both content and visually!
Much appreciated!
Hi Steve, looks like new...it´s hard work. I think you love what you do...Great video :))
Sorry for the late reply , as i was away for work. But thanks for the comments.
cheers from Romania ! :) one of the best channes on the entire TH-cam comunity ;)
Wow, thank you!
Do you sometimes use a paint pen to mark which bolts you have torqued down? I find that helpful under the car otherwise I forget which ones I’ve done after a cup of tea.
Sorry for the late reply , as i was away for work. But thanks for the comments. I do
A good way to hold the axle from turning is to install the brake rotor and caliper or caliper bracket and put a screw driver or punch in the rotor vent slots ( if you have a vented rotor that is) and rest the punch or screw driver against the bracket or caliper. That's the way I did it . Never had a problem. You can also use your bar and put the tranny jack under the end.
Thanks for the comments, and indeed very good points as an alternative method
Another great video, Steve! So sorry about your doggie 🐶😔. Thank you!
Thanks for the comments, she was 15 years old and had a good life
looking forward to the test spin! that'll be one good handling machine :-)
I hope so
Thanks Steve
I love them defenders..i really want one
Thanks for the comments, mine is a TD5 2003
From one guy to another, your commentary gives valuable context and information about thought process etc. chapters are nice, but ………
Steve you made a big mistake replacing the subframe bushings with OEM rubber. The rubber bushings are too soft, which then puts stress on the rear differential mount. The common replacement is using poly bushings like a Power flex bush.
yes , but where I live you never get through MOT...with those poly bushes.... its no mistake, I would if I could but its not allowed by law in the MOT
Steve..tough task for you..could you please rank your top ten vehicles of all time? or ones that meant to most of you in your life? e.g. first one..etc...enjoy any and all content..ty
Thanks for the comments, This will be funny but here it is 1: Triumph Dolomite Sprint, 2: Triumph Spitfire 3: Lotus Elise 4: TVR 3000M 5: Mini Cooper 6: Triumph TR6 PI 7: Landrover defender TD5 8:Mazda RX7 9:MGB GT V8 10:Super Seven
Hi. Is it correct that the prop shaft has a slight play in horizontal way (from differential to the wheel)? I assume that it’s normal, as it has to let the suspension move. But could you please confirm that this is not an issue? Thanks.
Them black tabs that hold cable ties/ wires won't hold long term! Use 3m double sided tape instead! Nice work by the way.
Thanks will do...
Thanks
Love your work!
Thank you!
When you torque down a greased bolt do you adjust the torque specs which are usually specified for a dry thread? I think the torque is generally reduced by 30% for a greased bolt.
That is correct, and I typical remove the grease from the treath before doing so... In fact I grease mainly shaft of the bold and not the actual area where the nut goes
@@D3Sshooter Thanks for your prompt reply. I found these references that may be of interest. www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html
blog.fcpeuro.com/6-tips-for-effective-use-of-anti-seize
Thanks for sharing Steve🙂
Edit: Do you keep all of your creations, or sell some to move onto your next project?
Thanks for the comments, so far I kept all .... except the super seven as that was an issue to get it on the road ( legislation and silly rules )
@@D3Sshooter
You are welcome Steve
Have you ever given a little tour of your equipment and grounds?
Some laws are pretty stupid...
The suspension bush’s should be torqued with the weight of the car on the suspension.
I don't agree with that Robert, as the bush is inside a metal piece (alu) , its that part that is pushed between the upper part on the cars frame and the nut at the bottom. There is no effect on the bush/rubber part. The only effect on the rubber bush is sideways movement of the axle... If I don't forget , I will show you that it makes no difference in the last video on this topic that is to come. You would be right , if that bush had a vertical elasticity but it does not
Thanks for the comments
Can you please give us the tightening values?
nice work !
Thank you! Cheers!
Gday mate,turns out my transfer case for 4x4 mode is pooped...juwt doesnt want to party ahahaha... I suspect stripped gears
Oeps that is a bit of work ahead of you
@@D3Sshooter big time.. Not looking forward to it
Never Sneeze for the win! I use that stuff all the time……
Thanks for the comments John
👍😊
I'm a young noob but I don't understand why the rear brake are both a drum and a disc ?
I guess it's just the parking brake and actual brake. I had just never seen that before.
Keep on talking in the videos, they are wonderful. Others who have little or no talking or just music aren't worth watching in my opinion.
Thanks for the comments,
After a job like this, if you're not bleeding a little bit you probably haven't done it right =)
Thanks for the comments, In fact I have not..
Een vriendin die zegt dat je teveel praat...
Waar heb ik dat nog gehoord ? Zijn er dan andere misschien ?!
hahaha
Beste is keramisch vet vs. Kopervet, geen anode katode werking
Goed punt, inderdaad.. Thanks
Hi
He'll o