Just got mine a few days ago and I installed it just now. The video helped so much I didn't need to keep looking at it while building. I had just replaced links on my jlu so I had enough when my C10 volunteered to be the donor.
Just finished building mine, made a post of it on the SCX24 subreddit. Such an amazing chassis to build, and thank you for having the files available for purchase for us with 3D printers!
@@Space_Naught I am currently waiting on another brushless system from Furitek so I can design it for both the Surpass and Komodo. Sorry for the delay. It will be available as soon as I receive the product! Thank you,
One tip. I was running into some slight suspension binding when doing great flex. The stock shocks bodies would run into the chassis and that would create drag inside the shock at max extension with twist. I took some extra ball studs from Injora, used a little hex nut from them as well and put the nut on the ball studs. This spaced out the shock body from the chassis rails and it's butter smooth at full extension and twist. There is just enough thread on the ball studs to just reach through the chassis.
@@CineMoto24 Yep the green one. looks like it shipped might have it by Monday. I picked up an Axial SCX24 Chevy C10 today. The Jeep version I ordered might have been lost by USPS.
I hate to add any tips, but i ended up using extra ball studs i got with some brass knuckles to use with the stock steering links. They worked great when converting to the four link. I also used stock axle length for the jlu rear up front. I trimmed the female shaft by sanding the end down. Just clean up the edges and your golden. Trimming the shafts by snipping the ends off squeezed the sides and increase drag so the shaft wouldn't slide freely.
Just received my blue Warthog over here in Michigan. Thanks Shane. It's great. I've been seeing them in videos for a while. Just couldn't move it high enough on my list til now. Can't wait to install it. Thank you for a great, simple, well thought out option. I have been creating all sorts of designs in my head for some time. I will hit you up when I make some. Don't think I can beat what you have done, but it will be fun to try.
Hey I’m in MI too. SE MI. My son and I run Deadbolts and I’m really wanting this kit. Have you built yours yet? Any trouble getting the extra bits to complete? Would like to hear how your build went if you don’t mind sharing.
I recently purchased the files off cults3d, printed this out and built it up yesterday. THIS is the most capable scx24 I've had, thank you! With scrambler tires it can still go over anything, although it hits the shock reservoirs during tight turns, I need to get some more standard sized tires
My build is in progress. Some notes: I'm moving my battery to the front and my electronics to the rear. The shocks rub against the chassis and cause binding. You can invert them and then trim the retainer to solve that. If running a larger motor (Torquebeast 2.0) the rear upper link hits the end of the motor can and wont allow the suspension to come to full rest on that side and the rig sits cockeyed. To make it work properly I had to make custom bent upper links for the rear. I used the LGRP (or Shapeways) rod ends and the stock link ends (cut off of the links) to make them.
Dude thanks so much for the video, supper helpful and completely reasonably easy to follow. I’m just pricing out what it would take to make one of these, fully pimped out how yours is and everything.
I am curious why you made those links you provide with the kit or file, whats the advantage over a set of low clearance links? I am getting confused with your exchanging of links here, also just looked into my still sealed bag of the C10, there are no links, just a drive shaft. So i think i will buy (or find in a box) a set of high clearance links and use those. Still confused, you seem to use C10 rear lenght links for front and rear ?
They allow the crawler to have more clearance under the links and is less likely to get hung up! But yes, you use C10/JL rear links both in the front and rear. Axial must have stopped including the additional links in later models. Thanks!
Rite On I think this is definitely the best thing to get the most out of the 24! And it looks Good,so on the wish list it goes,when that really happens,well like everything in this life, As soon as dream stage of sleep hits! Would love to support This is My only,Dont waste a smart mind,please keep,make RC Even Greater
Currently building mine. I was wondering if you're essentially replacing the rear shaft after you move it, wouldn't it be easier to line up the new shaft with the stock rear for measurement to make it the same length?
I believe they are roughly 6mm in length. Standard SCX24 hardware though. If you need one to measure, you can just check one of your bottom diff cover bolts! Thanks!
I have a brand new C10 and I just ordered your kit for now can I switch all the parts over without really needing much and then slowly upgrading as I go
I'm prolly going to buy one of these and see if I can jam a torq CL 0508 servo on it . Thoughts on fitment? Is this updated to fit brushless or outrunner yet ? 🤔
I just ordered the Warthog Chassis from Etsy to swap with my SCX24 Jeep body. I am running the Furitek Komodo Brushless set up. Will the Warthog Chassis accommodate this set up.
Just ordered one chassis, any chance you know the dimensions on the drive shafts? I have metal ones, looking to see if there is something out there with the right dimensions. Thanks!
I like the look of it much more the the upturned nose version. Great install video. Question: what is the space available for a larger motor? an 050 can? Any larger brushless fit?
Ok, I ordered up one finally! Can’t wait to get this up and running. Going with a Mofo RC 050 can in this build to get a brushed motor back in the collection.
How do you like the MOFO RC 050. I got the Torquebeast 050 from MOFO. I installed Yeah racing fr/rr axles, very beefy. The pin/dogbone in one slipped out of place andbound the axle. That Torquebeast twisted the axle like a string.
This would work with a deadbolt although you would most likely have to replace all stock links and driveshafts due to the length differences but it can certainly be done!
Why are there no videos to show and tell how to assemble the chassis itself, would be handy, I bought your files and had them printed and none of my stock screws work to assemble the chassis. Why is this happening???
I am sorry you are having issues. As stated in the cults3d description you will need 14 m2x8mm bolts to assemble the chassis. It can be assembled based on photos after that. If you need additional help feel free to reach out to me on etsy or FB. Hope you enjoy!
@@CineMoto24 oh, ok, I must have missed that. Thank you for replying. Just out of curiosity will you please make a video of putting the chassis together?
Have you tried or do you know if your chassis, with the battery on the bottom like you have, or even on the top side, will allow a second front axel/servo in the rear for 4 wheel steering?
You are! They just need to be 61mm for the lowers and 50mm for the uppers. Front and rear. This is the same stock length as the rear of the Jeep jl or Chevy c10.
Yes! Use a 1.3mm driver such as this one. Once I started using it I never had an issue. chadstoolbox.com/05118064001-wera-2054-micro-1-3-x-40mm-hex-driver/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-bDj-IG99QIVU_LjBx02mg0AEAQYASABEgKZjvD_BwE
Bought mine and printed it up! Watched this video late last night and installed on my brand new deadbolt. Everything bolted right up, had to modify the rear chassis side shock mount slightly with some new holes because the extended length of the rear of the deadbolt. Also, I only installed the extra driveshaft to the front, no cutting necessary. Testing it out this weekend next to my other 3 scx24s! Thanks again for making an awesome product
Awesome! I haven't owned a deadbolt yet but I'm glad you got it working with it too! Hope you enjoy it. I'll warn you though. It makes crawling so easy it takes some fun out of it!
@@CineMoto24 yes! It does! Haha. I have all of my 24s with me on a trip this weekend and even playing around with them tonight it is crazy capable compared to my other very built deadbolt, stockish deadbolt and c10 on dually rears.
I just finished doing the deadbolt to warthog conversion. I don't have/can't find spare parts that came with my scx24; no long drives haft other then the one for the rear. I ended up swapping using the links that came with the Axial package listed in this video. Now it has a forward tilt when sitting on flat ground.. Trying to figure out how to resolve now.
@@wille2075 That is unfortunate that you cannot find your parts. For the deadbolt you must replace all 8 links as it uses different stock links than the Jeep. All lower links for the warthog must be the 60/61mm links and all uppers must be 50mm. Hope that helps!
Random question. I was watching this video and installing all of my parts. And now it seems like the front is dragging inside the differential or something like that. When I give it gas it has a lot of torque twist and I want to hit reverse a torque twist the opposite way but only in the front. Also the whole thing seems to be slower than normal and the motor was getting super hot
Where did you buy your wheel nut wrench? I'm assuming it is a 2mm nut driver? As well, where did you buy your allen wrench? Again, I'm assuming it is a .05" wrench? Please and thank you. Thank you for the 3D printed files as well as this video!
The wheel nut wrench is the RC4wd wrench that is included with their stamped beadlock wheels. They also sell it standalone here: store.rc4wd.com/RC4WD-40mm-Metric-Hex-T-Wrench-Tool_p_5535.html The driver I use is this one right here. By far the best for these little bolts! www.amazon.com/Wera-05118064001-Kraftform-Electronics-Screwdriver/dp/B003ES5MDU/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2UIPLCTXUZ56R&dchild=1&keywords=1.3mm+hex+driver&qid=1632139406&sprefix=1.3mm+%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-5
@@CineMoto24 Awesome and thank you for the reply with the links to the wrenches. For the chassis - I ended up purchasing your print plans and printed my own warthog chassis in purple PLA. Came out great! Thank you again! Now I'm just waiting for the screws and Axial parts to arrive to put it together. I also ordered a set of the RC4WD stamped steel wheels. So, I'll wait to see if I get a wrench with mine. Clayton
Just finished my Deadbolt to Warthog conversion this morning. Couldn’t have done it without this tutorial. Thanks.
I know the deadbolt has a different wheel base did you have any issues with that ?
@@HostileHern Not at all. Fit perfectly.
Just got mine a few days ago and I installed it just now. The video helped so much I didn't need to keep looking at it while building. I had just replaced links on my jlu so I had enough when my C10 volunteered to be the donor.
Just finished building mine, made a post of it on the SCX24 subreddit. Such an amazing chassis to build, and thank you for having the files available for purchase for us with 3D printers!
Of course! Thank you for the support!
@@CineMoto24 is there any update on the brushless version?
@@Space_Naught I am currently waiting on another brushless system from Furitek so I can design it for both the Surpass and Komodo. Sorry for the delay. It will be available as soon as I receive the product!
Thank you,
@@CineMoto24 thanks for the update! Ill be waiting for the release.
Where can I buy the file?
One tip. I was running into some slight suspension binding when doing great flex. The stock shocks bodies would run into the chassis and that would create drag inside the shock at max extension with twist. I took some extra ball studs from Injora, used a little hex nut from them as well and put the nut on the ball studs. This spaced out the shock body from the chassis rails and it's butter smooth at full extension and twist. There is just enough thread on the ball studs to just reach through the chassis.
i will most definitely be having this video up when i put mine on
Thanks for the video i love it, and want One but delivery costs more than the chassi 😢
Couldn't resist, Ordered my Warthog and a SCX24 today, and I can't wait to get mine up and crawling.
The green one? I just started printing it! Thank you!
@@CineMoto24 Yep the green one. looks like it shipped might have it by Monday. I picked up an Axial SCX24 Chevy C10 today. The Jeep version I ordered might have been lost by USPS.
I hate to add any tips, but i ended up using extra ball studs i got with some brass knuckles to use with the stock steering links. They worked great when converting to the four link. I also used stock axle length for the jlu rear up front. I trimmed the female shaft by sanding the end down. Just clean up the edges and your golden.
Trimming the shafts by snipping the ends off squeezed the sides and increase drag so the shaft wouldn't slide freely.
Just received my blue Warthog over here in Michigan. Thanks Shane. It's great. I've been seeing them in videos for a while. Just couldn't move it high enough on my list til now. Can't wait to install it. Thank you for a great, simple, well thought out option. I have been creating all sorts of designs in my head for some time. I will hit you up when I make some. Don't think I can beat what you have done, but it will be fun to try.
Hey I’m in MI too. SE MI. My son and I run Deadbolts and I’m really wanting this kit. Have you built yours yet? Any trouble getting the extra bits to complete? Would like to hear how your build went if you don’t mind sharing.
Good idea to use the creality snips
I seen in the corner that u had all the 3d printed stuff for tracks I just finished mine I love the tracks
I recently purchased the files off cults3d, printed this out and built it up yesterday. THIS is the most capable scx24 I've had, thank you! With scrambler tires it can still go over anything, although it hits the shock reservoirs during tight turns, I need to get some more standard sized tires
Awesome! Glad to hear you are enjoying it! You could also get some axle extensions to widen the stance if you want to run the larger tires!
@@CineMoto24 but you talk so highly about the wranglers, I have to buy them now :D
@CineMoto I just printed a kit from your files. Looks awesome. What size screws donyou use to build the chassis? And where do you get them?
@@trevortopolay1361 M2 x 8mm, you need 14 of them, I bought a pack of 50 off amazon
@@trevortopolay1361 m2x8mm you can get them anywhere including amazon
My build is in progress. Some notes: I'm moving my battery to the front and my electronics to the rear. The shocks rub against the chassis and cause binding. You can invert them and then trim the retainer to solve that. If running a larger motor (Torquebeast 2.0) the rear upper link hits the end of the motor can and wont allow the suspension to come to full rest on that side and the rig sits cockeyed. To make it work properly I had to make custom bent upper links for the rear. I used the LGRP (or Shapeways) rod ends and the stock link ends (cut off of the links) to make them.
Thanks for that great video! Just build my second Warthog after 2 years break. Will there ever be a new design/version ?
Dude thanks so much for the video, supper helpful and completely reasonably easy to follow. I’m just pricing out what it would take to make one of these, fully pimped out how yours is and everything.
I am curious why you made those links you provide with the kit or file, whats the advantage over a set of low clearance links? I am getting confused with your exchanging of links here, also just looked into my still sealed bag of the C10, there are no links, just a drive shaft. So i think i will buy (or find in a box) a set of high clearance links and use those. Still confused, you seem to use C10 rear lenght links for front and rear ?
They allow the crawler to have more clearance under the links and is less likely to get hung up! But yes, you use C10/JL rear links both in the front and rear. Axial must have stopped including the additional links in later models. Thanks!
Rite On I think this is definitely the best thing to get the most out of the 24! And it looks Good,so on the wish list it goes,when that really happens,well like everything in this life, As soon as dream stage of sleep hits! Would love to support This is My only,Dont waste a smart mind,please keep,make RC Even Greater
I make 1" or more extension for the battery lead. Makes it easier to unplug. ESC case seems to be in its own way. Good video.
you should make an option to this chassis where it has body posts so someone could still run a body on it if they wanted.
Currently building mine. I was wondering if you're essentially replacing the rear shaft after you move it, wouldn't it be easier to line up the new shaft with the stock rear for measurement to make it the same length?
what size is the extra blot you need? The one that you said comes with diff covers?
I believe they are roughly 6mm in length. Standard SCX24 hardware though. If you need one to measure, you can just check one of your bottom diff cover bolts! Thanks!
I was looking for a guide on how to 4 link the Jeep, this was helpful
Hi. Thanks for your building video. Could you kindly please let me know the dimensions of the front and rear upper links ? Thank you
What size hardware do you use for that actual 3D printed parts. They look like a different size than the actual scx24 screws
The hardware is just m2x8mm bolts!
I have a brand new C10 and I just ordered your kit for now can I switch all the parts over without really needing much and then slowly upgrading as I go
That is truly badass. Well done!
I'm prolly going to buy one of these and see if I can jam a torq CL 0508 servo on it . Thoughts on fitment? Is this updated to fit brushless or outrunner yet ? 🤔
So is the weight mostly rear balanced since the battery is in the rear?
The link for the pillow balls seams to be incorrect. Can you send a new link please?
Did you print the Warthog in PLA or PETG? The longer links in the JL kit are they the rear links from a deadbolt?
I just ordered the Warthog Chassis from Etsy to swap with my SCX24 Jeep body. I am running the Furitek Komodo Brushless set up. Will the Warthog Chassis accommodate this set up.
Just ordered one chassis, any chance you know the dimensions on the drive shafts? I have metal ones, looking to see if there is something out there with the right dimensions. Thanks!
I like the look of it much more the the upturned nose version. Great install video. Question: what is the space available for a larger motor? an 050 can? Any larger brushless fit?
050s fit although brushless setups do not yet. I am currently working on a surpass/Furitek version.
Awesome. Thanks for the quick reply! I look forward to seeing the brushless setup you come up with. Very interested in this little kit.
@@CineMoto24 im very interested in a surpass verision!
Ok, I ordered up one finally! Can’t wait to get this up and running. Going with a Mofo RC 050 can in this build to get a brushed motor back in the collection.
How do you like the MOFO RC 050. I got the Torquebeast 050 from MOFO. I installed Yeah racing fr/rr axles, very beefy. The pin/dogbone in one slipped out of place andbound the axle. That Torquebeast twisted the axle like a string.
Can you only do this to a c10 or jeep? Because I have a deadbolt and want to do this.
This would work with a deadbolt although you would most likely have to replace all stock links and driveshafts due to the length differences but it can certainly be done!
Mine was done with a deadbolt. No issues and thing is wicked.
@@blazinghillie what all did you have to change for the deadbolt?
Top links and driveshafts
I got a pipe cutter tool that makes drive shaft cut easier
Very well designed, and so clean 👌
Would like to see you build a Trx-4! Your awesome dude
I want to buy one but I want to know can I change the steering servo and will a different motor fit?
Yes, you can run all standard servos, also you can run either the stock motor, 050 can motor, or outrunner brushless setup.
Any chance of something like this coming out for the trx4m?
I didn't hear you say anything about it but will it work with the outrunner motors such as furitek or surpass?
Not yet, I am waiting on a furitek komodo and then I will be designing one that is compatible with both. Stay tuned! I hope to have that done soon.
@@CineMoto24 Sick, I'll be waiting!
will this work with your high clearance links as well or are they only for non-warthog installs
will this work with deadbolt parts? im making a stretched out "2 rear links for the front and rear from a deadbolt" scx
Tires keep ripping off the shocks. Any help would be great
You have to run offset wheels to get the full turning radius or dial back your dual rates. Either will do fine!
@@CineMoto24 any tires and rims you recommend
Can you put the measurements of what each of the suspension links in the bio? I'm having trouble knowing which ones to use
Sure the lengths should be 58.5mm for the bottom links for the front and rear and 51mm for the top links for the front and rear.
Thanks
Why are there no videos to show and tell how to assemble the chassis itself, would be handy, I bought your files and had them printed and none of my stock screws work to assemble the chassis. Why is this happening???
I am sorry you are having issues. As stated in the cults3d description you will need 14 m2x8mm bolts to assemble the chassis. It can be assembled based on photos after that. If you need additional help feel free to reach out to me on etsy or FB. Hope you enjoy!
@@CineMoto24 oh, ok, I must have missed that. Thank you for replying. Just out of curiosity will you please make a video of putting the chassis together?
Do you know when you'll have more kits available for sale, thanks
Just added more!
Have you tried or do you know if your chassis, with the battery on the bottom like you have, or even on the top side, will allow a second front axel/servo in the rear for 4 wheel steering?
Can I do this to my deadbolt?
Yes
When using your Warthog High Clearance Links, is it necessary to cut the drive train? Which linkages go on top?
With this chassis am I able to use aftermarket high clearance links such as treal or injora?
You are! They just need to be 61mm for the lowers and 50mm for the uppers. Front and rear. This is the same stock length as the rear of the Jeep jl or Chevy c10.
i just put my warthog chassis on last night and i was wondering what wrench size or alan wrench to remove the motor is
Are you referring to removing the motor from the transmission? I believe it is a 1.5mm wrench if I recall correctly.
@@CineMoto24 is it an alan wrench
@@gaveny725 yes, it is.
@@CineMoto24 thanks
Great video bro 💯 Like #4
the stock screw heads strip so easy on mine do you have any tips for that
Yes! Use a 1.3mm driver such as this one. Once I started using it I never had an issue. chadstoolbox.com/05118064001-wera-2054-micro-1-3-x-40mm-hex-driver/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-bDj-IG99QIVU_LjBx02mg0AEAQYASABEgKZjvD_BwE
@@CineMoto24 thank you
@@TylerJ54 they’ve also got sets of better screws for the whole chassis
@@ethanh3421 ya i ended up getting those to
Sorry this is probably a noob question but why does the 4 link improve flex? And is it possible to run it with out? how much less flex is there?
It reduces friction on the driveshaft
Can you please add a link to ebay for those pivot balls you use for your conversion??
Do you think petg is ok to print it ?
Yes, thats a good choice.
What shock length is best for this chassis? Stock length or the 43mm?
Can you still use flex blades for more flex?
I’m sure you could! Personally I have one setup with double barrels too but I prefer the stock shocks to keep that cg low.
Bought mine and printed it up!
Watched this video late last night and installed on my brand new deadbolt.
Everything bolted right up, had to modify the rear chassis side shock mount slightly with some new holes because the extended length of the rear of the deadbolt.
Also, I only installed the extra driveshaft to the front, no cutting necessary.
Testing it out this weekend next to my other 3 scx24s!
Thanks again for making an awesome product
Awesome! I haven't owned a deadbolt yet but I'm glad you got it working with it too! Hope you enjoy it. I'll warn you though. It makes crawling so easy it takes some fun out of it!
@@CineMoto24 yes! It does! Haha. I have all of my 24s with me on a trip this weekend and even playing around with them tonight it is crazy capable compared to my other very built deadbolt, stockish deadbolt and c10 on dually rears.
I just finished doing the deadbolt to warthog conversion. I don't have/can't find spare parts that came with my scx24; no long drives haft other then the one for the rear. I ended up swapping using the links that came with the Axial package listed in this video. Now it has a forward tilt when sitting on flat ground.. Trying to figure out how to resolve now.
@@wille2075 That is unfortunate that you cannot find your parts. For the deadbolt you must replace all 8 links as it uses different stock links than the Jeep. All lower links for the warthog must be the 60/61mm links and all uppers must be 50mm. Hope that helps!
Random question. I was watching this video and installing all of my parts. And now it seems like the front is dragging inside the differential or something like that. When I give it gas it has a lot of torque twist and I want to hit reverse a torque twist the opposite way but only in the front. Also the whole thing seems to be slower than normal and the motor was getting super hot
Your wheel nuts might be too tight
@@naticen it was.
Thanks.
Luv mine big fan
Where did you buy your wheel nut wrench? I'm assuming it is a 2mm nut driver? As well, where did you buy your allen wrench? Again, I'm assuming it is a .05" wrench? Please and thank you. Thank you for the 3D printed files as well as this video!
The wheel nut wrench is the RC4wd wrench that is included with their stamped beadlock wheels. They also sell it standalone here: store.rc4wd.com/RC4WD-40mm-Metric-Hex-T-Wrench-Tool_p_5535.html
The driver I use is this one right here. By far the best for these little bolts! www.amazon.com/Wera-05118064001-Kraftform-Electronics-Screwdriver/dp/B003ES5MDU/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2UIPLCTXUZ56R&dchild=1&keywords=1.3mm+hex+driver&qid=1632139406&sprefix=1.3mm+%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-5
@@CineMoto24 Awesome and thank you for the reply with the links to the wrenches.
For the chassis - I ended up purchasing your print plans and printed my own warthog chassis in purple PLA. Came out great! Thank you again!
Now I'm just waiting for the screws and Axial parts to arrive to put it together.
I also ordered a set of the RC4WD stamped steel wheels. So, I'll wait to see if I get a wrench with mine.
Clayton
cool video
Where can I purchase the warthog chas
Check the link in the description! Thank you!
Ordered mine in black
That battery strap sucks cant get them tight enough
Please ship to Australia!!!
Why does the roof say skp eng
Because that is the name of my etsy shop.
@@CineMoto24 that makes sense also u should try to put a traxxas trx4 winch servo on an scx24 im doing it right now
Will you sell me your Warthog?