Modification of Canon 450D or 1000D DSLR Camera for Astro Imaging and Infrared Photography
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2024
- Video of modification process of the Canon 450D or 1000D DSLR cameras for astro or infrared imaging. The video speed was increased to keep it under ten minutes. For complete detailed modification instructions online, see: garyhonis.com/r...
Opening your camera will void the Canon warranty.
![เขามัทรี - เอ็กซ์ ศุภกฤต - จอนนี่มิวสิค [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AS9ufKuQIVs/mqdefault.jpg)
I know this video is old. For those of you removing ribbon cables, before you remove the ribbon cable take a fine point black sharpie marker and draw a line on the cable along the connector. That way when you reassemble you will see if the cable is slightly crooked or not in all the way. This saves time on having to take it all apart because you don't know which cable is causing the problem.
Thanks for the good tip. I’m going to be giving this a shot soon on my t2i.
Did you attempt it? Any success?
@@bakerfx4968 No I didn't try it but could see the frustration potential if the cable is not seated........
This is how I first learned to modify my cameras. I've watched this video many times in the past with camera in hand. Over the years with your help, I've sucessfully modified mostly my old Canons Xti, Xs, Xsi and ready to try my T1i. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Gary.
About 10 years ago I modified my D450 for astrophotography myself. While watching this video today, I rewinded the movie, my camera was shooting very red and I made my camera normal again to gift it to my kids. At each screw, I paused the video, noted the minute on paper, and taped the screw to the paper. You have to be careful if you're making it yourself, otherwise you won't be able to use the toothpick you used to pull the flex cables after dinner :-) Thanks Gary.
Thanks for the tutorials. I just successfully removed the IR filter on my 450d using this video and the website tutorial. This is probably one of my first time taking apart something as complex as a DSLR camera. It's a lot easier than it looks!
Lol really ??? I'm used to taking things apart and putting them back together but this job just looks too much man....I probably will end up giving it a go though .....
The first 2 min im like " thats all right, no big deal, i might try that soon" an and then i felt uncomfortable just watching you stripping the whole damn thing haha
Hi Jeremy,
Hi Jeremy,
Hi Jeremy,
Hi Jeremy,
Hi Jeremy,
Hi Jeremy,
The test is clear glass. You can buy astro-shop in Germany.
Hi Jeremy,
The test You the clear glass
You can buy Astro-shop in Germany.
Thanks so much, Gary. Between this video and the step by step instructions on the website, this was a 2 hour affair despite a minor error where I put one of the ribbon cables behind the board during reassembly. I had to move backwards and get the push in connector back in front of the board. I wouldn't say it was easy, but if you have the patience, it is achievable.
There is definitely a moment of fear and anticipation as you power the camera back on. Mine went well and appears to be operational. I only made mine 'naked' (without a filter) as I intend to use clip in filters. This XSi/450 will be an astro camera for the remainder of its shutter life!
I plan to take photos in the next week to verify the results.
Peter, did you have a chance to try this out? Can you attest to the results?
I just did this and it went well. I just removed the IR filter to make it full spectrum and I have an 850nM filter on the lens.
Another tip is the top screw. The one he said is at a angle. I drilled a hole in the case as suggested elsewhere so as to get straight at the screw. Its covered by the eyepiece rubber.
Much better option than striping the screw. I striped the head on one screw on the base and had to drill it out.
This is giving this old camera a new life.
You can do infrared with an unmodified 1000D using an infrared filter. The problem is that since DSLRs have an infrared blocking filter inside the camera and in the exposure path, there is only a small amount of infrared light that makes it to the imaging chip. But if you use long exposures you can take infrared images of still objects like landscapes. Using a tripod and a fast lens like the 50mm f1.8 would help. You could get the Hoya R72 and have some fun with it on your unmodified camera.
I've done quite a few of these mods myself mostly on 300D. I experienced two problems and thought I'd share them here. The one big problem was on my 3rd mod using a metal pick that had a fairly sharp end to remove the ribbon cables. One of the ribbon cables came out of its socket all at once and the pick slipped and punctured the cable. Lesson learned: use a wood pick with a slightly dull tip. The other problem was minor but one of the hinged connectors broke at the hinge.
@wowcolors Yes, you can remove both original Canon filters in the camera body to convert the camera to Full Spectrum. Both filters need to be removed because both block infrared light. But, there are two concerns when not installing a clear glass replacement. First, the camera's autofocus function will no longer work, nor will you be able to focus using the camera's viewfinder. The other problem is the front surface of the CMOS imaging sensor will be directly exposed to dust contamination.
Many after modifying their cameras have had to redo all of the ribbon cable connections in order to get a working camera. Some have had to do that three and even four times to firmly seat the ribbon cables and get a good connection. If that doesn't work, maybe the brass shim that was loose shorted something. The brass shims are used by Canon to get precise autofocus. See my support Yahoo group DSLRmodifications for more info.
I succesfully modded my 1100D today by following your excellent instructions. Thank you!
thanks for sharing this information Gary! Finished my 1000D with a new IR-cut baader filter and everything works! Can't wait to test it out on the sky
Hi Funkyman,
Thanks a lot! Gary
Good point for not dropping those small screws! I do magnetize the driver by rubbing its tip on a speaker magnet. It does loose it's magnetism over time, I think in part because I keep it along with other tools in a metal case.
Thanks Gary for these excellent instructions. Just modified my old 450d. It works! couple of minor issues. It says no card and shows an error for the cleaning system but I suspect I may not have have seated some of the ribbon cables properly but as I save my images to PC anyway and I can disable the cleaning I can live with that, don't really want to take it apart again
Hi Clive,
Thanks a lot!
Hi Clive,
Thanks a lot! Gary
@@ghonis ????
hi Gary ,
thanks for your detailed instructions to modify a canon dslr.
i did a full spectrum and cooling (copper finger behind the cmos ) modification
to my canon 1000d , now turned to a 1000dac.
it was very easy with your manual.
thx thx thx !!!
greetings from germany
Congratulations on a successful modification! You may want to share your cooling results on my support group:
groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/DSLRmodifications/conversations/messages
The thickness of both the original IR cut filter and the replacement filter for the 450D is .57mm and the size is 19.2mm X 26.7mm.
Gary
For UltraViolet light (UV) it would be best to replace the original IR cut filter (LPF#2)and also the anti-aliasing filter (LPF#1) with a clear glass filter. I have tested an earlier Canon DSLR model, the 300D with a clear glass replacerment using a UV pass filter for imaging the planet Venus and it worked well. The orignal Canon UV/IR cut filter that is removed during the modification cuts off ultra-violet light at about 360nm wavelength.
Top tip : The correct screwdrivers for this project are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). I picked some up from Amazon (Vessel Precision Screwdriver Set TD-56S) for
Tried with my 1100d. Easy to follow, but in the end I scratched LPF so I will have to remove it also. Thanks a lot for the video!
Both the Baader and Astrodon UV/IR replacements can have optical defects. For astro, if the filter you purchase has a defect, usually it is a minor one and the speck it creates can easily be removed by using flats. I go through a lot filters and I won't use a filter if the imperfection is bad like the one in the video. Most Canon models are also used for capturing video of the planets, Moon and Sun and there is no way for flats to remove specks. That's why I prefer the Astronomic filter.
When the original IR cut filter (LPF#2) is removed in a "Baader" modification, it quite often breaks while prying it loose from being glued in it's plastic frame. Even if it comes out in one piece, it has been stressed and should not be reused. When the front piezoelectric filter (LPF#1) filter is removed for a "Full Spectrum" mod, it is held in with a metal clip and can be reused, especially for those that have damaged their front filter or to replace a very dirty one.
That damn screw at 06:40! I've been fighting with it for over an hour!
Some say... that he's still trying to get that damn screw out.
Many Thanks Gary, I have just modded my oldie 450d for astro with your help!
You may it look so simple and straightforward! I am going to try it shortly!!
Terry,
The procedure for the 350D would be more similar to that of the 300D. TH-cam doesn't allow posting links in comments but you can do a Google search using "ghonis2 300d" as the search term.
For a guide specific to the 350D, use the search term: "ash's modified".
Hope that helps,
Gary
Took me 10 times as long as you but it worked! Thank you very much!
Hi Ashok,
You need to replace the IR cut filter in order for the camera's autofocus feature to work correctly. If instead, you planned to use the camera only with a reflector telescope at prime for imaging, you wouldn't need to replace the IR filter since the scope focuser could be used for focusing. Yes, there are differences between a 350D and 450D disassembly. The Lifepixel web site has instructions for modifying the 350D model. Join my yahoo support group DSLRmodifications for more info.
Hi Sean,
I just checked the website and all is working well from here.
Gary
Great video but leaves us stranded in the end. I cannot find your mod instructions at the website link either.
After modification. Did it over two months ago and successfully performed astrophotography. Came back from London yesterday. On a second day of taking photos - something started jumping around inside the camera body and my DSLR stopped working immidiately (didn't turn on). Came home, disassembled and found one of the shrims just tumbling inside. After putting everything back in their place - my camera statred working and everything is functioning correctly except for the shooting part.
Thank u for this video. I did a perfect mod. I did not replace a filter. What a nasty screw in an angle :-)
The black screws outside are better quality then inside.
Even though I was up for well over 18 hours and really tried I managed to take it a part remove the infrared cut filter and put it back together without the infrared cut filter only problem I had was that screw that's at an angle at the top that holds the sensor housing couldn't be reached started to panic that I wasn't gonna be able to mod it took a few breathes and said OK we're gonna need to remove the front housing if I'm gonna stand a chance at removing the screw everything worked out camera still works and takes pictures without the blue filter on it hopefully now I can get more color for the Ring nebula I seen the green teal color but the dumbbell nebula wasn't coming out much as for the Lagoon nebula it was barely visible. anyways thanks for the awesome video.
Hi Matt, Congratulations on your successful mod! I always suggest using a high quality driver will avoid stripping screw heads. I have been buying good quality drivers from an ebay source:
www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-iPhone-3G-3Gs-4-4G-PH000-Philips-Screwdriver-Cell-Phone-Commercial-Tool-/180730939239?pt=US_Cell_Phone_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item2a14674767
Gary
Gary Honis Thanks again could've done without your video and screw sheet what I did was I printed out your sheet took some Scott's tape and placed the tape where the screws we're on the paper then stuck the screw heads in the spot of the order re-assembly was a bit tricky but all works can't wait to try it out on the night sky.
You can refer to my detailed online instructions and support group for help with that screw. A high quality driver helps. If you can't remove the screw you can always take the front of the camera housing off and raise the top of the camera to get direct access to that screw. Gary
It is a problem to find glass that thin. 1.0mm is a more common thin glass thickness from suppliers. Baader in Germany is the only one producing a 0.57mm glass infrared blocking replacement at this time for a reasonable price.
Other suppliers can provide a similar size and thickness glass but their costs are very high.
Gary
Hello Gary, thx very much for the video and detailed instructions. Yesterday I successfully disassembled my 1000d and removed the IR filter. Tested with a Nikon 50mm lens (unfortunately I have no canon lenses, once I use only in the telescope) and I had a good result. But one question I have: the sensor alignment is automatic after reassembling the CMOS assy? The screws torque would tilt the sensor? My concern is to have some part of the sensor in focus and other part out of focus. I haven't tested yet in my scope, which is a F5,5 150mm Newt (with CC). The weather is not helping lol.
Hi Danny,
There is no sheet for the ribbon cables. They stay fixed in place after they are disconnected. The photo in Step #12 of the 450D modification instructions has labels for all of the ribbon cables that need to be disconnected. For help with the modification, consider joining the Yahoo discussion group "DSLRmodifications".
Gary
Success! Removed the IR filter and re-assembled the camera. Works great. THank you very much!
Can't wait to see how will it perform now:) Do you have a gallery of before and after of the night sky?
Assuming I have high hope for the sensors to be dust free without the filters, Couldn't I just attach the Baader filter as an external cap over the lens? That would fix the autofocus function, no?
Thanks for sharing your excellent work btw!!!, ghonis.
@airbus001 Yes, the Canon warranty is void as soon as you open up the camera.
Gary
I did this mod the other day, now I seem to have specs (dust) showing up in my photos that won’t go away. Do I need to disassemble it again and clean it better?
I noticed some companies who do this mod for a price have warnings about dust. As a general rule the dust reduction feature will no longer be functional after conversion. This is because the ultrasonic piezoelectric element that vibrates dust off the sensor is built into the filter that also blocks IR light. As part of the conversion process we remove the IR blocking filter and since the dust reduction element is built onto this filter, it is removed as well.
Dave Ninjaneuro I appreciate the well explained reply, but I managed to resolve the issue by disassembling my dslr again and thoroughly cleaning the sensor. Seems to fine now, except I lost a screw inside the camera
You are THE man , Gary!!!
Yes. Use the instructions on my website for modifying the 550D model beginning at Step #13. The steps are similar for the 450D. Links aren't allowed here but you can search my name, Gary Honis for the instructions and my web site address is my name.
If dust does get on any of these components before you store them, what is a safe way to clean them?
this is amazing. i am new to astro and ive had a canon eos t1i 500d for quite some time. i am soon to acquire all the expensive equipment for shooting deepsky. ive done a lot of research about everything being a stargazer but i wanted to ask since im moving into photos what is the baader and full spectrum, which should i choose and why are they necessary to mod the camera? this looks really fun haha and seems needed. sry i didnt get lucky enough finding your email.
Hey @Gary Honis
Do you have a focus issue after removal, I did the same on eos 30D, and not on focus slightly in the back
Hi Gary. I'm due to make the modifications on my Canon 550d. The only part which I'm unsure about is the shims to restore the focus. Is that part complicated. I'll be doing a full spectrum mod with the Astronomik clear glass as you suggested. I wish you was closer to Italy! I'd send it to you!
Hi Gary, do you have a similar video / instructions for how to remove and replace the IR filter for Canon 500D? and which one can I use as a replacement glass for 500D, thanks much!
every time I try this method at least half the screws are overwhelmingly tight. meaning I strip many of them. effectively meaning I cannot safely remove the sensor. I managed to recently but the camera refused to take a phot. it told me to turn it off and on again, stoll didn't work. it's an old XSi
Hi great video. Quick question... Why did you disconnect all the ribbon cables on the pcb when the chip only had 1 to disconnect? Thanks
Hi Bergen, I disconnect all the ribbon cables from the mainboard, because you need to remove the mainboard from the camera to get access to the sensor.
Gary
Thanks Gary. So you suggest to remove all the filters down to the sensor is that correct for a full spectrum modification? I don't need to leave anything. Isn't there a anti aliasing piece? That has to stay? I intend to use it with my reflector at prime focus. I won't put in the astronomik glass replacement unless you say it's completely necessary because I intend to use the Astronomik UHC clip in filter. Do you foresee any problems with this. Thanks! I'll check the forum too! Gerry
Hi Gerry, With the replacement of both filters and adding the Astronomik MC clear glass you would get more detailed images because the anti-aliasing filter is removed. Also adding the MC clear glass would allow you to image with camera lenses. Gary
Join my Yahoo support group DSRmodifications for help. Most likely, you will need to reseat all ribbon cable connections to get the camera working. That is the most common problem.
Hi Gary,
Thanks a lot for the clear instructions!
I'm a bit stuck on the part where I glued the infraredfilter,
The frame of the low Pass filter doesn't fit back on. It doesn't want to snap back in position. I'm afraid the infrared filter is too thick. The low pass filter seems to rest on the IR filter. Is it possible to remove the Low Pass filter? Or do I need to switch the IR filter for a thinner one?
Maartje Anna Fotografie Yes, if your IR pass filter is too thick and greater than 1.0 mm, the metal clip that holds it in place will not fit. You should be removing both of the original Canon filters (LPF#1 and LPF#2) and replacing them with a single IR filter. If your IR filter can be cut, you can cut it smaller in size to fit in the position of the removed LPF#2 and glue it in place. You would then have a permanent IR only camera. For my Infrared modifications, I use an Astronomik MC Clear Glass for a Full Spectrum modification and add IR pass filters, either lens thread-on or clip-in type.
GREAT VIDEO! Thank you so much! Great job sir!
Hi Danny,
Any 100% silicone glue would be good to use. GE makes a few versions for use on windows and doors. You may want to check your local hardware store.
Gary
Why is a clear glass needed for full spectrum mod? Why can't you just remove the factory IR filter and not put anything in it's place?
Is this necessary to do? I don't really feel comfortable doing this to my camera, but I want to get into astrophotography. I would probably pay someone to do this if it was absolutely necessary.
Hi there. Great video. I purchased a 450D just so I could modify it. I got everything done as you did, sans the replacement glass for the cut filter. I put it back together, all cables securely fastened, all screws back in place. But, now it won't turn on. Any idea as to what it may be? Is there some common blunder I may have committed? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, is your website still available? I am having no luck getting on it.
This happened to me so I took the back off again and made sure all the ribbon cables were pushed in fully. The main one the first one you pull out was the culprit and I had to attach it three times before it finally came back to life so check those cables if its not coming on.
So I went to the website and it doesn't seem to be there anymore. Is there somewhere I can get a print out like the one he was using in this video?
Thank you for a quick reply! Is there a tutorial on how to disassemble the front body part?
@ghonis I see...I sure will look into the yahoo group. Sounds like it's more of a pressure thing than a visual thing. Thanks!!!
How about the other side of the visible spectrum?
Where is the sensor's limit in picking UV light?
Hi Gary, I followed your instructions to the t and everything went well until I went to turn it on. The camera is completely dead. Any ideas?
Hi! very informative video.
Can i make a question to you?
It is tecnically possible to "switch" the entire sensor (as an example, put a 450D sensor into a 300D sensor)?
If no, why? different sizes? firmware problems?
A detailed answer would be appreciated (serached on the net with no results).
@Velodynamic
Using a magnetic screwdriver could damage the hardware in the camera
One more thing I just remembered. On my first mod I used a little too much glue in one corner and it squished out leaving a tiny spot in the top right corner of my images. Use a VERY small amount of glue.
he make's it look simple
i don't think i'll bother
Sorry, not in the Canon user manual, but detailed instructions are now posted for all four Canon models: 450D (XSi), 500D (T1i), 550D (T2i) and 1000D (XS). Your original Canon warranty will be void of course.
It would not be possible to switch the entire sensor between camera models. The sensors are physically different with different connections to the mainboard.
im thinking of getting an IR filter for my 1000d but after seeing your video and reading some stuff on the web im starting to wonder if its gonna work on the cannon eos 1000d by it self or do i have to go through this proccess?
Well I'm back again! figured I ask should a replacement filter be put over where the IR filter was ? Reason I ask cause I'm planning to buy another Canon 450d to astro mod but I figured I'd ask so before I order and take the DSLR a part that I get a filter place where the IR was hate to put the DSLR back together and then end up having to take it a part again to add a filter inside it. Figured I'd mention I never needed to cut out the IR filter pushing the IR filter out with your finger works fine or you can push the IR filter out with a screw driver carefully because you don't wanna bend or break that housing but I had no problems pushing the IR out.
Was also curious as to what will no longer function on the DSLR the first one I did following the video I never tried to use the Sensor cleaner and a few other things I never tried to use was a bit worried if I tried to use them it would damage the camera or lock it up so it wouldn't work.
I noticed my first comment I said I could've done it without your video, but I was meaning to say I couldn't have done it without your video... So hopefully that clears some things up.. One of these days I have where I look back at old posts and say to myself eh? I said that I swear someone edits my comments some times but I know someone doesn't I for some reason think it sounds good then look back and I'm like ...
Hi Matt,
For old messages from you would have to click the more messages button below. Gary
Hi Matthew, You can always reconnect the ribbon cables on the mainboard, that's what I found that fixes many issues.
You asked: " I also had to disable the ultrasonic cleaner on start-up and shutdown mode. Is that required if you put in the Baader IR lowpass filter for the Canon one, or does it still normally work?
Yes, you can use a blower's bulb in manual cleaning. I use a 2 ounce rubber ear syringe that I bought on ebay.
If that fails you can send it to Canon for repair. I have had good luck with the Canon Service Center in Newport News, VA. You need to include a note and online for the technician that reads the camera was modified by me for astro imaging an please don't change out the custom filter. It is probably a faulty SD circuit board. Gary
Yes. See my web site Gary Honis dot com for detailed instructions for modifying the 1100D (T3) model.
Interesting - however all I can say is where are your Anti-static precautions!!! Don't underestimate the damage static can cause when your body and workstation isn't earthed.
The 60Da doesn't pass the important h-alpha wavelength for astro imaging at 100% like a true astro modified camera. The reason most believe Canon did that is so the camera could better correct the white balance settings by reducing the red response of the camera. The 60Da is a good camera for casual astrophotography, but for serious work to capture the important h-alpha wavelength for emmision nebulae like the Great Orion Nebula,Rosette or Horsehead, you will need a true astro modified camera.
Any reason why you don't offer EOS 60D service? Also, does a replacement filter actually need to be added if I have an external IR/UV cut off filter?
Hi William, I don't modify the 60D model because the XXXD models are more popular for astro imaging, since they are smaller and lighter, especially important for telescope focusers. I don't do the type of modification in which both original filters are removed and replaced with nothing. The camera will not be able to focus at infinity for astro imaging using camera lenses if that is done. Also, the imaging sensor would be directly exposed to dust.
Ok for anyone who is interested: "Infrared cut off-filter mod is not so simple. They replace the filter with a plane glass filter of the same thickness, and some bender replace another filter to cut just outside of hydrogen-alpha band and UV band to make result better with not so good lens with chromatic aberration. If they forget to put the glass, we can not use the DSLR as AF camera, because the focal point changes without the glass of the thickness. "
Did you modify your camera or are you asking about a non-modified camera with the Error 99 problem?
Hello Gary
I'm about to try following your instructions to modify my Canon 550d. Scary! I intend to use a Astronomik UHC filter afterwards. Can I ask which filters do I need to remove do I leave the first one? Shame your not closer to Italy I would send it to you! Any advice for my camera. Oh yes the shims! Are they also to do on the 550d? I wasn't so clear on it.
Thanks
Gerry
Hi Gerry, That is because the front filter (LPF#1) does not fully block IR and can result in star bloat. The problem with having only the front filter (LPF#1) in place is that it is a weak IR blocker and does not block all infrared light. If you planned to image with a reflector telescope only at prime, that would be okay. Once you add a focal reducer, corrector or barlow to the imaging train, you would need to include a UV/IR cut filter in the imaging train to avoid star bloat. If you plan to image with a refractor telescope, you would also need to add a UV/IR cut filter in the imaging train. I have a TH-cam video posted here that show star bloat using LPF#1 only as the filter:
th-cam.com/video/r9-8lB1e_20/w-d-xo.html
We have had discussions of this on my support group DSLRmodifications:
tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/DSLRmodifications/message/3797?threaded=1&l=1
The 550D model does not have shims, there are spring loaded screws instead, just follow my instructions for a Full Spectrum modification. Gary
@ghonis Hi Gary, i'll see it now ;-)
Thanks for the fast reply and tips.
Bye Danny
Hello, I got a question. After removing the IR filter.. Do you return the filter to the customer? or you recycle it.
hi am new to astro photography and dont know much about it. ive just bought a 450d to use with my Skywatcher Explorer 130P AZ GoTo telescope, if i was to do this what could i expect to see differently,will it make the picture look better or will i be able to see nebula's will it make take everyday photos look different ie going take good photos of the night sky is this worth doing. thanks
Hi Glyn,
If you are doing astro imaging with your scope now, after the modification you will have an increased red response. All emission nebula like, M42 and the Rosette, will have have the bright red areas that are blocked in a stock camera. For daytime images with a modified camera you can use the camera's Custom White Balance feature or a color correcting filter. See my website at GaryHonis.com for examples.
Gary
do u provide a service to do the mod? just a bit concerned as i use my camera out of the night sky and still wish to have the same quality of pictures after the mod,look at you page but failed to find the color correcting filters can add a link plz
Did you loose focus like this?with objectif?
your website says that there is no need to replace the IR cut glass. Will no glass affect in the shooting of pictures? I am planning to modify my old EOS 350D. Is there any difference between the 450D and 350D dis-assembly?
Can you help me...??? my AF indicator is't glowing... i use 1000d...
Hello Gary
I'm just looking to order the MC glass from Astronomik but they do not have one for the Canon 550d is one of the others compatible or will I need to cut it in same way. Thanks for helping. Gerry
Hi Gerry, What model do you have the MC glass for? Gary
I actually have a spare Canon 400D, yup you see it right a 400D, can it be convert into Astro photography too? How to get the Baader filter that we see in your video?
Having trouble accessing the website, only the first page is loading. I can't seem to get any screw sheets, or any of the following pages to load at all.
I see... as i suspected.
Thanks for the information :)
so, er, which page of the Canon manual is this mod on?
I don't suppose anyone still has the print file stored somewhere? I did a quick search and found that Gary is no longer with us. Found some links from 2019 that don't work.
I know its an old video but the websites not working for the instructions, anyone know were else I can get them from please ?? For the 450d.. please and thankyou.
Great tutorial… but is it just me or is your website *really* down .... ?
The web address in the video is no longer working. But all of my modification instructions are on my new website. The address for my new website is my name GaryHonis followed by dot com.
Hello!
Are those detailed instructions still available? Because the link no longer works :(
Thank You!
Hello Gary, thanks for all your information.
Does a coma corrector on a reflector count as a lens system? Since i was planning on removing the filters in my 1000D and not replacing them with anything.
+Alexander Axglimt
On my support group there have been discussions of using the Baader MPCC coma corrector with Full Spectrum modified cameras without problems and no need to use a UV/IR filter. See the discussion here:
tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/DSLRmodifications/message/2100
If you are asking why I use an Astronomik MC Clear Glass for a Full Spectrum modification, if you don't replace the original filters with anything, most camera lenses will be unable to reach focus at infinity for astro imaging.
Another reason for using a multi-coated optically polished clear glass for full spectrum modifications is because it acts as an optical window to protect the CMOS imaging chip. The Astronomik MC Clear Glass is very durable and scratch resistant. I have seen cameras with dirty front filters that are not only dusty but have difficult to remove grime (tree sap is one suspect). Even worse, there have been reports on my support group of the front filter becoming pitted. I have replaced front filters that have been badly scratched by users during their attempts at cleaning. A front filter is much less expensive to replace than a CMOS imaging sensor assembly. But if you always keep a clip filter inside the camera body, that would provide a good level of protecting the CMOS sensor.
Hope that helps.
Gary
+Gary Honis Yes, it sure does, thank you!
My camera will not be used for anything else than to be attached to a reflector with a baader mpcc.
Besides, it's an old body i bought cheap used, so i don't want to spend to much $ on it... Maybe when i upgrade i will do a proper mod.
On my camera i don't see any setting for mirror up lock, and it makes this noise everytime the mirror moves so i was thinking if there's any way to remove the mirror also... Do you know if that is possible?
+Alexander Axglimt
You can see instructions for removing the flip mirror on a 550D here, maybe you could do the same for your 1000D:
www.markshelley.co.uk/Astronomy/Projects/Mirrorless/canon550mirrorless.html
+Gary Honis Excellent! I will check it out.
Hi Charlie,
I haven't heard of any problems getting the Baader DSLR replacement filters for the 1000D. I just received a large shipment myself yesterday. Check with Alpine Astro, the US Dealer. I have installed the Astrodon filters and they are a direct replacement as well.
Hi Chaley,
Thanks a lot! Gary
Hi Charley,
You can buy a baader filter from baader. Gary
Hi Charley,
You can buy a baader from baader!
Hi Charley,
You can buy the baader from baader! Gary
Hi Charley,
You can buy the baader filter from the baader! Gary
how much is that camera and the cost to modifi it ?
Hello Garry it is hard to find the Sillicon rubber clue.
Can you help me with it ?
Is there a Bison clue for it ?
Bye Danny
Both are excellent cameras for astro imaging. I have comparison tests posted on my web site. Links aren't allowed here, but if you go to gary honis dot com, click on the second link and select "Models Compared".
Gary
Hi Garry, nice website ;-)
I just bought a Canon 450D and want to modify it.
I found the sheet "450D DSLR Modification Instructions" for the screws.
But i can't find the sheet for the ribbon clables you talk about in this movie ? ;)
Can you help me with these ?
Bye Danny
Is removing the filter set from a EOS 5D III about the same? And is there a tutorial for that camera?
Hi Paul,
You can your EOffiS 5D III camera to Hap Griffin. Gary
@@ghonis Hi Gary - I can what - send? Thanks! Paul
Getting an "Err 99" error when trying to shoot. The shutter is working, but seems to be the problem. Don't know really. Any clues?