There should be a decompression lever left of steering wheel. U pull it to the left, start cranking, and when it cranks at speed you shift it to the right to increase compression and it starts.
Nice job. That's a $2500 to 3000 tractor. There rock solid and usually only ever simple problems with them. I have a YM2000 and had it over 10 years. Solid tractor love it. Tell him be careful with the wrong air cleaner. They don't seal right. Those have a thermostarr, you need diesel fuel dripped onto it to ignite for proper operation. It's just a little heater doesn't heat right without fuel dripped onto it to ignite from the cup. Also you are supposed to use the decompression lever to get it spinning fast and then drop the lever to start.
@@UncleMike1776 helps you get by with a weaker battery. Also do not stop it useing the decompression lever. For whatever reason the manual states that. I have heard it can cause bad things. Not sure why. If pistons don't hit valves while cranking why would they to stop it? It may be something more todo with lifting valves at the wrong time in a compression stroke bending valves? I don't know it just says it everywhere and everyone who knows these say not too. Shut it off with the throttle. I have become pretty good with these things, done almost everything to mine that could be done without going into the engine or trans
I have this tractor. It's my favorite small tractor. I built a front end loader for mine and it does anything I ask it to do. It probably would have started with that lawnmower battery. There is a compression release handle right below the dash on the left side. You release the compression on the engine and get it spinning, and then let the handle go. For cold weather you'll want a full sized battery in there.
Nice to hear! I did learn of the compression technique after I got it going. Nice little machine. The fella I sold it to over heated it about 15 times literally boiling the coolant out of it and he never had an issue with it. Kept on going!
@@UncleMike1776 It's funny you mention overheating. I live in Pennsylvania, which isn't exactly known for its heat, but in the summer it does get hot and very humid. I have about 10 acres of yard (technically a field I keep mowed) and this is the tractor I use to mow. I always worried about it overheating, so I removed the dummy light and installed an electronic temperature gauge in its place. According to the Yanmar engineers, this model wasn't overheated until it was above 238 degrees, which seems really high to me. Even Hoye says the dummy light is illuminated at 220, but the original documentation in Japanese says 238. Anyway, I always watched that temperature gauge hovering around 210-225 and it made me nervous. Hoye Tractor in Texas makes a kit to add a water pump. It has a bracket to move the dynamo out to the side and then the water pump goes right behind the fan where the dynamo was. It was a little more expensive than I wanted, so I tried a couple times with adding electric coolant pumps to the system. I bought two pumps, and both of them burnt up within a couple months of use. So I finally broke down and bought the mechanical conversion from Hoye. It works pretty well. Hoye is, in my opinion, the best authority on these tractors in the United States. They are a great source of information and they can get you almost any part for a reasonable price. According to Hoye, someone in my climate should be running no more than 25% coolant between the last frost and the first frost every year, and then a regular 50/50 for the rest of the year. Before I had the water pump, I ran distilled water with an additive like water wetter in the summer. Now with the pump, I can run it 50/50 all year. It takes a little longer to warm up in the winter, obviously, but it works well. I have overheated the tractor twice, but both times it was because of my initial problems with the water pump kit. There are little differences in the tractors, and I had to fab a couple parts to make it fit. There was a little trial and error involved there. The tech support board at Hoye has some good information on YM1500 cooling issues: ymowners.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=3848
I have a ym1500 . I do everything with it. Awesome for getting in to skinny places like dragging trees out of the woods. Easy to work on also. The hi/low control lever just adds to stuff you can do with it.
Those are what you call grey market tractors only place you can get OEM parts for it is this one shop in Texas I got the phone number to the shop because I have customers constantly asking for parts to these guys
It is actually a reconditioned tractor. You can tell by the bolts. The tractor was painted at the factory in pieces then put together with unpainted bolts. Look where the transmission meets on this one and the bolts are painted. Also they had rice patty tires on them originally that would last forever, as for as wear. They usually rot before you can wear them down, 25 yr later.
![เปิดบ้าน พี่ตูน Bodyslam หลังใหม่คนแรก ที่ภูเก็ต l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/flFwcmyDQSk/mqdefault.jpg)
There should be a decompression lever left of steering wheel. U pull it to the left, start cranking, and when it cranks at speed you shift it to the right to increase compression and it starts.
There is!
Nice job. That's a $2500 to 3000 tractor. There rock solid and usually only ever simple problems with them. I have a YM2000 and had it over 10 years. Solid tractor love it.
Tell him be careful with the wrong air cleaner. They don't seal right. Those have a thermostarr, you need diesel fuel dripped onto it to ignite for proper operation. It's just a little heater doesn't heat right without fuel dripped onto it to ignite from the cup. Also you are supposed to use the decompression lever to get it spinning fast and then drop the lever to start.
They are strong little units, and he knows I didn’t think about using the decompression lever when we first got it, he’s been using it since
@@UncleMike1776 helps you get by with a weaker battery. Also do not stop it useing the decompression lever. For whatever reason the manual states that. I have heard it can cause bad things. Not sure why. If pistons don't hit valves while cranking why would they to stop it? It may be something more todo with lifting valves at the wrong time in a compression stroke bending valves? I don't know it just says it everywhere and everyone who knows these say not too. Shut it off with the throttle.
I have become pretty good with these things, done almost everything to mine that could be done without going into the engine or trans
@@natevanlandingham1945 those little Yanmar motors are easy to tinker on
I have this tractor. It's my favorite small tractor. I built a front end loader for mine and it does anything I ask it to do.
It probably would have started with that lawnmower battery. There is a compression release handle right below the dash on the left side. You release the compression on the engine and get it spinning, and then let the handle go. For cold weather you'll want a full sized battery in there.
Nice to hear! I did learn of the compression technique after I got it going. Nice little machine. The fella I sold it to over heated it about 15 times literally boiling the coolant out of it and he never had an issue with it. Kept on going!
@@UncleMike1776 It's funny you mention overheating. I live in Pennsylvania, which isn't exactly known for its heat, but in the summer it does get hot and very humid. I have about 10 acres of yard (technically a field I keep mowed) and this is the tractor I use to mow. I always worried about it overheating, so I removed the dummy light and installed an electronic temperature gauge in its place. According to the Yanmar engineers, this model wasn't overheated until it was above 238 degrees, which seems really high to me. Even Hoye says the dummy light is illuminated at 220, but the original documentation in Japanese says 238.
Anyway, I always watched that temperature gauge hovering around 210-225 and it made me nervous. Hoye Tractor in Texas makes a kit to add a water pump. It has a bracket to move the dynamo out to the side and then the water pump goes right behind the fan where the dynamo was. It was a little more expensive than I wanted, so I tried a couple times with adding electric coolant pumps to the system. I bought two pumps, and both of them burnt up within a couple months of use. So I finally broke down and bought the mechanical conversion from Hoye. It works pretty well. Hoye is, in my opinion, the best authority on these tractors in the United States. They are a great source of information and they can get you almost any part for a reasonable price.
According to Hoye, someone in my climate should be running no more than 25% coolant between the last frost and the first frost every year, and then a regular 50/50 for the rest of the year. Before I had the water pump, I ran distilled water with an additive like water wetter in the summer. Now with the pump, I can run it 50/50 all year. It takes a little longer to warm up in the winter, obviously, but it works well.
I have overheated the tractor twice, but both times it was because of my initial problems with the water pump kit. There are little differences in the tractors, and I had to fab a couple parts to make it fit. There was a little trial and error involved there.
The tech support board at Hoye has some good information on YM1500 cooling issues:
ymowners.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=3848
I have a ym1500 . I do everything with it. Awesome for getting in to skinny places like dragging trees out of the woods. Easy to work on also. The hi/low control lever just adds to stuff you can do with it.
That is correct! Nice little machine.
Good video this week. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep Making. God Bless.
Will do, thanks for watching!
I have this exact tractor, they are workhorses, bush hog, tilling, discing, plowing, box blade. no issues. little and powerful
The ol boy I sold it to put it through hell and back and keep running like a top!
You always pick up the coolest sh..tuff!
Heck I’m always looking for something, thanks for watching!
I will miss the model t! Good video
As will I, thanks for watching!
I have one just like this but 4X4. I’ve had it for 20 years!
that’s awesome nice unit!
Love YM series Yanmar . 👍
@@redgreen4449 good tractors
it does put in work
@@yadirarodriguez-we9bm that’s right
.i came to see the tractor, i have a 87 yanmar 226d the one in your video is a grey market tractor, the throttle works backwards from mine.
That’s crazy!
Your name should be Wheelin an a Dealin always got the trade going on keep the videos coming...
I like to see what I can get!
Whats the next project? Luv ur videos brotherman keep It Up!
I haven’t decided, I need to work on my tractor, and I want to get something to tinker on and have a weekend cruiser
Those are what you call grey market tractors only place you can get OEM parts for it is this one shop in Texas I got the phone number to the shop because I have customers constantly asking for parts to these guys
Yeah. For how many of them there are out there you’d thinks parts would be easier to come by!
Parts have gotten easy to get now . The parts and repair manual can be difficult at times .
See he knows he’s going to be dragging his truck into town because he’s a dodge guy
Classic…
saw you on Hanks channel thought i would try it
Thanks for tuning in
Nice fish
Thanks you for watching!
That's an all original grey import. Not one of the "rebuilt" ones
It’s solid!
It is actually a reconditioned tractor. You can tell by the bolts. The tractor was painted at the factory in pieces then put together with unpainted bolts. Look where the transmission meets on this one and the bolts are painted. Also they had rice patty tires on them originally that would last forever, as for as wear. They usually rot before you can wear them down, 25 yr later.
@@wallyh8740 some of them have replacement tires. I'll have to look back at the bolts. Good catch
Hello, what year is your tractor?
@@elarrayanchillan I think it was a 1979
@@UncleMike1776 Gracias.