I have a 76 Spider pulled my engine out sent the Head out for rebuild & the machine shop did a terrible job on the Head had to take it off after starting the engine,same shop rebuilt again 2nd time around turned out better still have my spider time for a new timing belt after 15 years. Good job Chris.
Great video! As an original owner of a 1978 124 Spider, you have increased my understanding of my own car by orders of magnitude. Love it! Keep them coming!
Couple of comments for future DIYers attempting this or working on any head: 1) always check the valve stem axial play in the bronze valve guides, and always plan on replacing the valve stem seals. If the valve has too much play, it can misalign in the seat and not seal. The guides can be replaced. 2) always keep the valves in order from where they came out, they each wear slightly differently and need to match up. It matters. Number and poke the valve stems through a piece of cardboard to keep them straight. Same goes for the buckets. 3) That wasn't lapping the seats. Lapping the valve seats and valves should be done with valve lapping or grinding compound, grinding both the valve and the seat into each other. Chucking up the valve stem in the drill and pulling it into the seat and spinning it both directions a few times works. 4) After lapping, clean the head and valves, springs and buckets REMORSELESSLY. Best bet is with a parts washer, but a utility sink with HOT water and dish soap works even better. After you think it's completely clean and rinsed to where you think there isn't a single speck of dust in it, then DO IT AGAIN. After, dry it all out with compressed air. 5) Check the flatness of the head and block with a machinist flat edge and feeler gauges. If not completely flat you have to evaluate what's wrong. I have successfully used sheets of emory cloth glued to a piece of glass and sanded heads flat. Use Prussian blue to mark the high spots and sand them down flat. Afterwards, WASH and DRY IT AGAIN. 6) You have to check the clearance on the con rod wrist pins and on the crankshaft bearings! Nice work, I enjoyed this. I once owned a 1980 Spider 2000, and really miss that car.
With the cams removed, all valves will be completely closed and sealed at all times. So, just spin the pistons and each cylinder should create compression. Yes, it could have been leaky valves on cyl 3 but I figured it was unlikely since I could visually verify the valves were seated correctly and the other cylinders held some compression. And since number 3 piston was so badly damaged, I decided I was worth just replacing anyway.
Found your channel today. Love it! Got a 79 fiat as well. Would love to chat with you if you're up to it. Thinking of doing some work as well but haven't mustered the courage yet. How could I contact you?
Hi i have fitted the same 8mm domed pistons in my 2.0 litre . Did it make a difference bear in mind my engine is a Fiat 131 sport euro spec 8.9 to 1 and yours would be a much lower compression .
Love your Spider and flying videos Chris. I have an 83 spider (owned since 89) and I also fly (recently sold my 1946 Fleet Canuck). My spider has 90,000 kms and I am pretty sure my valve guides need to be replaced. I also have a slow leaking rear seal which has done a good job of undercoating my car over the years. Do you think you would be better off to just pull the engine and work on it?
You'll need to pull the head to replace the valve guides which normally would be done with the engine in the car, but add in that rear seal and at that point it might be easiest just to pull the entire motor. That would also give you the opportunity to more easily replace a few other relatively simple bits while you're at it.
I loosened the motor mounts and raised the motor from below a few inches and was able to clear the crossmember. I'll detail the installation in reverse order in my upcoming part 2 video.
Do NOT rotate the crankshaft when the cams are installed without having the timing belt correctly installed. If you do, a valve WILL bend or break. You have been warned.
Hi Bill. Thanks for the feedback. You should also consider watching some of my older videos, specifically this one where I demonstrate on a damaged engine that when gently turning the crank by hand its virtually impossible to bend or break a valve. th-cam.com/video/zoguZI0ou30/w-d-xo.html
@@ChrisClarkeFly Yeah, I cringed when I saw that. That engine had a bent valve. Perhaps that was why you were able to turn it. Check my replies on a couple of your previous engine videos.
@@rever1111 Bill is right. These are basically interference engines. Additionally, I'm not sure if I missed it, but you need to clean out the oil pump, pickup, and all of the oil and water passages of the block. Your engine demolished steel and aluminum and sent the pieces throughout your engine. You need to clean them all out. Or they will cause your next engine failure. You can rent or borrow a cherry picker. If you can't afford that, you can throw a chain or rope over the rafter and pull the block. Or borrow two strong neighbor kids. You obviously shelled out for new hi-comp pistons, don't short spending 30-50 bucks for the machine shop to hot tank it and blow out the passages.
I have a 76 Spider pulled my engine out sent the Head out for rebuild & the machine shop did a terrible job on the Head had to take it off after starting the engine,same shop rebuilt again 2nd time around turned out better still have my spider time for a new timing belt after 15 years. Good job Chris.
I love the way you are not intimidated and just jump in and do it!
Great video! As an original owner of a 1978 124 Spider, you have increased my understanding of my own car by orders of magnitude. Love it! Keep them coming!
Keep it up. I'm rebuilding a 1980 124.
Good job Chris! I can hardly believe it has been almost 50 years since I did my first rebuild on a 124 twin cam.
Entertaining and educational. Keep them coming!
Amazing man, what you are doing is awesome
Couple of comments for future DIYers attempting this or working on any head:
1) always check the valve stem axial play in the bronze valve guides, and always plan on replacing the valve stem seals. If the valve has too much play, it can misalign in the seat and not seal. The guides can be replaced.
2) always keep the valves in order from where they came out, they each wear slightly differently and need to match up. It matters. Number and poke the valve stems through a piece of cardboard to keep them straight. Same goes for the buckets.
3) That wasn't lapping the seats. Lapping the valve seats and valves should be done with valve lapping or grinding compound, grinding both the valve and the seat into each other. Chucking up the valve stem in the drill and pulling it into the seat and spinning it both directions a few times works.
4) After lapping, clean the head and valves, springs and buckets REMORSELESSLY. Best bet is with a parts washer, but a utility sink with HOT water and dish soap works even better. After you think it's completely clean and rinsed to where you think there isn't a single speck of dust in it, then DO IT AGAIN. After, dry it all out with compressed air.
5) Check the flatness of the head and block with a machinist flat edge and feeler gauges. If not completely flat you have to evaluate what's wrong. I have successfully used sheets of emory cloth glued to a piece of glass and sanded heads flat. Use Prussian blue to mark the high spots and sand them down flat. Afterwards, WASH and DRY IT AGAIN.
6) You have to check the clearance on the con rod wrist pins and on the crankshaft bearings!
Nice work, I enjoyed this. I once owned a 1980 Spider 2000, and really miss that car.
Love your videos, i have learned a lot about my car :)
How did you perform a compression test without the cams installed? How do you know if the valves were sealing the chamber on cyl 3?
With the cams removed, all valves will be completely closed and sealed at all times. So, just spin the pistons and each cylinder should create compression. Yes, it could have been leaky valves on cyl 3 but I figured it was unlikely since I could visually verify the valves were seated correctly and the other cylinders held some compression. And since number 3 piston was so badly damaged, I decided I was worth just replacing anyway.
Found your channel today. Love it! Got a 79 fiat as well. Would love to chat with you if you're up to it. Thinking of doing some work as well but haven't mustered the courage yet. How could I contact you?
Hi i have fitted the same 8mm domed pistons in my 2.0 litre . Did it make a difference bear in mind my engine is a Fiat 131 sport euro spec 8.9 to 1 and yours would be a much lower compression .
Love your Spider and flying videos Chris. I have an 83 spider (owned since 89) and I also fly (recently sold my 1946 Fleet Canuck). My spider has 90,000 kms and I am pretty sure my valve guides need to be replaced. I also have a slow leaking rear seal which has done a good job of undercoating my car over the years. Do you think you would be better off to just pull the engine and work on it?
You'll need to pull the head to replace the valve guides which normally would be done with the engine in the car, but add in that rear seal and at that point it might be easiest just to pull the entire motor. That would also give you the opportunity to more easily replace a few other relatively simple bits while you're at it.
@@ChrisClarkeFly Thanks Chris. I agree, I'll probably pull the engine, clean everything up and replace what needs to be done. Love the videos.
How did you managed to take out the oil pan?
I loosened the motor mounts and raised the motor from below a few inches and was able to clear the crossmember. I'll detail the installation in reverse order in my upcoming part 2 video.
Do NOT rotate the crankshaft when the cams are installed without having the timing belt correctly installed. If you do, a valve WILL bend or break. You have been warned.
Hi Bill. Thanks for the feedback. You should also consider watching some of my older videos, specifically this one where I demonstrate on a damaged engine that when gently turning the crank by hand its virtually impossible to bend or break a valve. th-cam.com/video/zoguZI0ou30/w-d-xo.html
@@ChrisClarkeFly Yeah, I cringed when I saw that. That engine had a bent valve. Perhaps that was why you were able to turn it. Check my replies on a couple of your previous engine videos.
@@rever1111 Bill is right. These are basically interference engines.
Additionally, I'm not sure if I missed it, but you need to clean out the oil pump, pickup, and all of the oil and water passages of the block. Your engine demolished steel and aluminum and sent the pieces throughout your engine. You need to clean them all out. Or they will cause your next engine failure.
You can rent or borrow a cherry picker. If you can't afford that, you can throw a chain or rope over the rafter and pull the block. Or borrow two strong neighbor kids.
You obviously shelled out for new hi-comp pistons, don't short spending 30-50 bucks for the machine shop to hot tank it and blow out the passages.