I did something similar to this to make a curved level crossing (4 tracks with various spacings) in 1979. If you'd waxed the insides of the matchsticks on your shuttering (technical building name for concrete moulding timbers) with a crayon or candle the Polyfila (or Plaster of Paris) won't stick. Old box axled Triang wagons with the deep flanges are best for cutting the grooves. Don't forget the "Wet Cement" sign otherwise ant will leave footprints all over it!!
I'm the friend he's mentioned in this post. Using the matchsticks is very easy so long as you only use a small amount of glue. I only used glue on each end - not all the way along. When it came time to remove them i used a sharp knife to slide along under them. They came away very easily, then I sanded along the edges to get a smooth straight edge. It's very easy - just watch out when you sand it - you get dust everywhere so cover over the rest of the layout and move your locos out of the way
Might just be the only video in the world where people are excited about... concrete... Great videos! Keep up the good stuff! Also at 4:27, I've got that exact same coal car. When weathered with some rust paint, it one looks quite nice.
Great turorial :) I used this technique to pretty good effect on the club layout of the mrc I used to belong to, but instead of using the cutting disc I superglued some code 75 rail just on the inside (like a check rail) and filled the gap with string. Once the pollyfiller has dried and the frame has been removed you lift away the string (carefully!) and it leaves you with a nice full depth flange gap. :)
A very good "How To" tutorial, especially using the Dremel for the gap. Your video actually makes me want to try this out on a practice area that could end up in a diorama. Thank you for taking the time to do this video ;-)
Great Tutorial ! I have Hornbey equipment that was purchased late 70's early 80's (track etc.) And have just started thinking about my own project. This was the first tue I came across in your series and think they are great. Therefore I have subscribed. I particularly love the speeds you get from your locos. Very realistic! Most of the layouts I've seen, the locos tend to move too quickly but these echoe real life very very well indeed.
Hi, I'm a painter and use these products all the time. A few points for you: First, rub some Vaseline along the tracks and sticks, that'll stop the filler from binding to them. Second, there is a filler called One time or Rapid set, it is a light, fluffy, white coloured filler that dries much softer so you won't need to sand as much. Third get some filler blades from the hardware store, they're much better than a cruddy old ruler. Hope that helps, Cheers.
Good video, had thought of using Spackle (here in the US) but wasn't sure how to cut the reliefs for the flanges. Key thing to remember is to be very light when using the cutting disk and not go so deep that you cut the sleepers. As always can't wait for the next video.
your way of holding concrete is bril!, i use plastruct L section glued down to the baseboard then filled upto it that way theres a smooth edge ready for stuff to be butted up to it or what ever you wish to do!
a very good tutorial on how to lay the concrete mate.can i add that there is also another way to add the grooves in the concrete which i use and may even be easier. i use string with the same width as what you need for the wheels to pass and all i do is lay it on the inside of the rails, i then add the filler and whilst its drying i pull the string in an upwards motion away from the rails.it gives you a perfect gap along with being easy and simple.
I agree! I will use power tools next time - using bare hands takes ages but gives the same effect, I found using a heat gun cuts down the drying time though! I didn't suffer from any cracks at all though on mine, but that might have been down to I used cheap powder filler - found official polyfiller cracked allot on previous models while drying. cheers!
I'm only a keen watcher of railway modelers on TH-cam - all amazing stuff (my interest is live steam 3.5" & 5" gauge). These videos do remind me of my N gauge items I had as a kid though! Just a comment that I hope may be helpful. Not sure how expensive Pollyfilla is, but I would suggest "Easyfill" as an alternative. It's bagged powder (used for jointing plasterboard) and also comes in rapid set formulations. Just thought I'd mention it as it's a doddle to mix and lovely to work with. Cheers.
When I first did the tmd on the other end of the layout I left out the centre of the tracks. I used masking tape and was extra careful when applying the filler.
Hey, I've watched so many of your videos and loved them all, some really helpfull and inspiring too. Just something I tried myself and thought I'd share wit you. When I was creating my concrete area, I mixed black paint in with the polyfiller. (Mixed them in a seperate pot). The black darkened the grey polyfiller and watered it down at the same time. Killing two birds with one stone. The paint didnt affect the adhiesive properties of the polyfiller or make it crack when it dried.
cheers Richard I've just finished my TMD using this technique with cinders ballast over the top, works really well, will be uploading a video this weekend, but many thanks for showing me how you did it Andy
I used a fillerproduct also but as a dry powder which you mix with water! It did not crimp!!! An I made molds of carton and made the filler a little more liquid! So it spread out in the mold! The material you use I used to which came in toothpastelike form! I used that for small spots but this material is very very hard after it dries!! But good for quick fills!!!
good video thanks, i also mix colour with the filler, i use Coving Adhesive. Dries quicker, harder and is cheaper. You might also try laminate flooring underlay instead of matchsticks. It in 800mm square sheets, roughly 1/8th inch thick, very light, can be cut and sanded. I us it for road beds, raising an area, infill and any scenery
16:17 handy for this: 60s triang wagons with the larger wheel flanges. got an old fish van i use almost exclusively for checking the clearance of ballast while it's gluing
The easiest way to make the grooves is to use a cutting disk. If you don't have one then lay some string along the edge of the rail. When the filler has dried, pull out the string and your left with a groove for the wheels.
I've used the powdered stuff before and didn't get a very smooth finish. I've used plasticard in the past too, but to me it always just looked like a piece of plasticard between the rails. There are many ways to get this effect, this is just how I personally prefer to do it.
As Andy Reid said either wax or as I do, oil the formers (matchsticks) before laying the plaster/filler. Then once it's dry they come away and leave a nice sharp edge.
Hi Richard, brilliant tutorial on weathering, when you resprayed a friends 2 Deltic's. N gauge class 37 in EWS livery is the yellow band with EWS a transfer and what were the colour code numbers, all the very best keep up those video's i'm learning do much. kevin.
What time of day do you reccomend starting a project like this? Two in the morning? Because then I suppose you have the rest of the afternoon to monitor it? What time did you do it, and how long did it tke?
Wow, you certainly like making life difficult! Ordinary Interior Polyfilla in powder form is much easier to work with, and significantly easier to sand. Rather than using a sander, you can get excellent results using a scraper to remover the high spots. It is much quicker and doesn't generate anywhere near as much dust. I normally use a wallpaper scraper or a plastering trowel for this job. It might be worth cutting a strip of Plasticard to glue in between the rails rather than use filler
perhaps using a lubricant on the inside of the matchsticks such as vaseline would act as a release agent that would help to remove the matchstick more easily. yes pva would hold the filler in place - like it would if one was rendering a wall.
Could you link the video for painting the 'concrete'? I tried looking through your videos quickly but couldn't figure out which video it was apart of. Much appreciated! Your 'concrete' looks incredible! Cheers
would it be easier to stick match sticks inside the track where you need that groove for the wheels, of course I would only use blue tack to hold it haven't started my goods yard yet but just a thought
That would be a bit difficult. I've not tried it myself. I would do a test on an old turnout and see how you get on. Perhaps use card or something similar instead?
I used polycell interior ready mixed polyfiller for this vid. Exterior filler works fine too. Not sure what the code is, all the polycell stuff should be in the same place in the shop.
Put some masking tape over the area where you are painting and the surrounding area, and then make a slit in the tape where the lines are going to be. Paint over that slit, and the masking tape left means that there will be no paint bleed.
if i wanted to put fake concete down but not inside the tracks on my long strait's could i just put a very tight fit peice of timber in and remove it when the filler in nearley dry. Cofffee sterers like the ones found in Costa & starbucks are better than match sticks as there alread the same height.
Great tutorial - thank you! I am planning on working my station area this weekend. Question - how would you deal with turnouts? I have one to contend with. Thanks! JB
Thank you for the how to video. Getting back into modeling after 15 years, but didn't want to start again on aircraft/armor because then I'd want to start detailing everything and there goes my modeling mojo. But zombie dioramas? Oh yeah! Looking at creating city scenes which would include concrete sidewalks and your how to video fills the spot which is why I down loaded it. I do have a question, but it's NOT any kind of criticism. Do train people really lay that much concrete at one time on/around their tracks in real life? I thought the slabs would be smaller as to be more realistic and what about expansion joints between the slabs? Or because of your scale, it's not worth bothering with? Thanks again for the video.
The polyfilla is pre-mixed in the tub. As you can see in the video I put the filler down and then wet the the spreader. The wet spreader softens the filler just enough to make it spread.
Hi, i'm using your method described here on one of our little project layouts - would you mind if I included this instructional video on the layout update? You present it far better than I could! My channel is kewrail if you want to look although the layout i'm using this on isn't featured yet.
I'm watching and learning all the time, thanks to your videos.
I did something similar to this to make a curved level crossing (4 tracks with various spacings) in 1979. If you'd waxed the insides of the matchsticks on your shuttering (technical building name for concrete moulding timbers) with a crayon or candle the Polyfila (or Plaster of Paris) won't stick.
Old box axled Triang wagons with the deep flanges are best for cutting the grooves.
Don't forget the "Wet Cement" sign otherwise ant will leave footprints all over it!!
It works for roads quite well. The cracks you get also add some nice detail to the road.
I'm the friend he's mentioned in this post. Using the matchsticks is very easy so long as you only use a small amount of glue. I only used glue on each end - not all the way along. When it came time to remove them i used a sharp knife to slide along under them. They came away very easily, then I sanded along the edges to get a smooth straight edge. It's very easy - just watch out when you sand it - you get dust everywhere so cover over the rest of the layout and move your locos out of the way
I found this video very helpful and gave me food for thought as it will be my first time at a project like this.
Just to say thank you for uploading and the demonstration. It is a nice looking layout as well.
Yet another excellent tutorial video, very helpful.
Cheers for the upload.
Rob.
Might just be the only video in the world where people are excited about... concrete...
Great videos! Keep up the good stuff!
Also at 4:27, I've got that exact same coal car. When weathered with some rust paint, it one looks quite nice.
Great turorial :) I used this technique to pretty good effect on the club layout of the mrc I used to belong to, but instead of using the cutting disc I superglued some code 75 rail just on the inside (like a check rail) and filled the gap with string. Once the pollyfiller has dried and the frame has been removed you lift away the string (carefully!) and it leaves you with a nice full depth flange gap. :)
A very good "How To" tutorial, especially using the Dremel for the gap.
Your video actually makes me want to try this out on a practice area that could end up in a diorama. Thank you for taking the time to do this video ;-)
Great Tutorial !
I have Hornbey equipment that was purchased late 70's early 80's (track etc.) And have just started thinking about my own project. This was the first tue I came across in your series and think they are great. Therefore I have subscribed. I particularly love the speeds you get from your locos. Very realistic! Most of the layouts I've seen, the locos tend to move too quickly but these echoe real life very very well indeed.
Always nice to see a new everard junction vid, brilliant and informative as always!
Hi, I'm a painter and use these products all the time. A few points for you: First, rub some Vaseline along the tracks and sticks, that'll stop the filler from binding to them. Second, there is a filler called One time or Rapid set, it is a light, fluffy, white coloured filler that dries much softer so you won't need to sand as much. Third get some filler blades from the hardware store, they're much better than a cruddy old ruler. Hope that helps, Cheers.
Good video, had thought of using Spackle (here in the US) but wasn't sure how to cut the reliefs for the flanges. Key thing to remember is to be very light when using the cutting disk and not go so deep that you cut the sleepers. As always can't wait for the next video.
your way of holding concrete is bril!, i use plastruct L section glued down to the baseboard then filled upto it that way theres a smooth edge ready for stuff to be butted up to it or what ever you wish to do!
looks great :D! Next to the shed you should have a little office building where the workers can go in for lunch and have a cuppa.
a very good tutorial on how to lay the concrete mate.can i add that there is also another way to add the grooves in the concrete which i use and may even be easier.
i use string with the same width as what you need for the wheels to pass and all i do is lay it on the inside of the rails, i then add the filler and whilst its drying i pull the string in an upwards motion away from the rails.it gives you a perfect gap along with being easy and simple.
watching the putting down of the concrete in fast motion is so relaxing.. ^_^
At least you kept your hands clean!!! The result is very satisfying!!
Every in getting some tracks I'm going to make you a train cause you seem like the best.
I've seen the string method used to good effect. I didn't have any at the time so I went for the drill. As long as you are careful it works very well.
I agree! I will use power tools next time - using bare hands takes ages but gives the same effect, I found using a heat gun cuts down the drying time though! I didn't suffer from any cracks at all though on mine, but that might have been down to I used cheap powder filler - found official polyfiller cracked allot on previous models while drying. cheers!
concreting over the grass, that's the eighties alright. ha ha ...
The cutting disk is more fun, but the string method does work well.
I'm only a keen watcher of railway modelers on TH-cam - all amazing stuff (my interest is live steam 3.5" & 5" gauge). These videos do remind me of my N gauge items I had as a kid though!
Just a comment that I hope may be helpful. Not sure how expensive Pollyfilla is, but I would suggest "Easyfill" as an alternative. It's bagged powder (used for jointing plasterboard) and also comes in rapid set formulations. Just thought I'd mention it as it's a doddle to mix and lovely to work with. Cheers.
When I first did the tmd on the other end of the layout I left out the centre of the tracks. I used masking tape and was extra careful when applying the filler.
Hey, I've watched so many of your videos and loved them all, some really helpfull and inspiring too.
Just something I tried myself and thought I'd share wit you. When I was creating my concrete area, I mixed black paint in with the polyfiller. (Mixed them in a seperate pot). The black darkened the grey polyfiller and watered it down at the same time. Killing two birds with one stone. The paint didnt affect the adhiesive properties of the polyfiller or make it crack when it dried.
You can do the sanding by hand, but it will take quite a lot longer.
This is a great idea! I've just tried this on my layout and, although its still drying, looks brilliant! I cant wait to get it finished :)
cheers Richard I've just finished my TMD using this technique with cinders ballast over the top, works really well, will be uploading a video this weekend, but many thanks for showing me how you did it
Andy
Thanks,I have done that since on the signalbox pavement. Works very well indeed.
I used a fillerproduct also but as a dry powder which you mix with water! It did not crimp!!! An I made molds of carton and made the filler a little more liquid! So it spread out in the mold! The material you use I used to which came in toothpastelike form! I used that for small spots but this material is very very hard after it dries!! But good for quick fills!!!
I have the card kit but might give this a go. Could with a lot of patience make a load of paving slabs like this too.
Great vid. I think you should place a worker inside the shed with the door control box on the wall with the worker pushing the operating button
good video thanks, i also mix colour with the filler, i use Coving Adhesive. Dries quicker, harder and is cheaper. You might also try laminate flooring underlay instead of matchsticks. It in 800mm square sheets, roughly 1/8th inch thick, very light, can be cut and sanded. I us it for road beds, raising an area, infill and any scenery
16:17 handy for this: 60s triang wagons with the larger wheel flanges. got an old fish van i use almost exclusively for checking the clearance of ballast while it's gluing
I use several layers of card, the way the paint dries helps bring out the surface
The easiest way to make the grooves is to use a cutting disk. If you don't have one then lay some string along the edge of the rail. When the filler has dried, pull out the string and your left with a groove for the wheels.
Great job good idea and process for a heavy industry like a Steel Mill as well.. Many Thanks for the effort and sharing...
Thanks for this tips, next time i make some of this I'll give it a go.
Nice 'How To' Video and as always your layout looks bril
I've used the powdered stuff before and didn't get a very smooth finish. I've used plasticard in the past too, but to me it always just looked like a piece of plasticard between the rails.
There are many ways to get this effect, this is just how I personally prefer to do it.
Thanks, that was a great tutorial. Cheers, Dan
is the pollifiller the same as spakleing compound here in the US
great video..thanks for shareing
As Andy Reid said either wax or as I do, oil the formers (matchsticks) before laying the plaster/filler.
Then once it's dry they come away and leave a nice sharp edge.
I just paint on things like that, I use the airbrush most of the time and brush paint later on for extra detail.
Hi Richard, brilliant tutorial on weathering, when you resprayed a friends 2 Deltic's. N gauge class 37 in EWS livery is the yellow band with EWS a transfer and what were the colour code numbers, all the very best keep up those video's i'm learning do much. kevin.
Thanks, very helpful . Probably will use this method.
Thanks, I'll try some of that when I do more concrete. Would be nice to speed up the process.
very nice vids and tutorials. Subscribed today. Keep up the GREAT work!
Very good as always. On the previous section (where all the locos are stabled) how did you make sure that none went in between the rails?
surely putting a thin wire along the inside of the track would help with making the gap for the wheels to pass through?
Great, i am going to use this as i have a big area to do. Thanks
Great tutorial mate, really enjoyed it :)
Regards,
Caz
Very good tutorial. Off this subject but what radius track do you have on your helix?
So any new updates on the layout, I am loving watching over all your older videos but can't wait to see the new one.
What time of day do you reccomend starting a project like this? Two in the morning? Because then I suppose you have the rest of the afternoon to monitor it? What time did you do it, and how long did it tke?
another great video, thank you
Nice job you have done there
Just wondering if you will cut out some grooves for the shed to fit into or will you just leave it on top of the polyfiller ? Thanks in advance !
Wow, you certainly like making life difficult! Ordinary Interior Polyfilla in powder form is much easier to work with, and significantly easier to sand. Rather than using a sander, you can get excellent results using a scraper to remover the high spots. It is much quicker and doesn't generate anywhere near as much dust. I normally use a wallpaper scraper or a plastering trowel for this job. It might be worth cutting a strip of Plasticard to glue in between the rails rather than use filler
I use a static grass applicator that I made to lay the grass.
Did u ever use pencil lead shavings on the concrete for weathering? Great Effect. Great Job. Thnx for Video..
perhaps using a lubricant on the inside of the matchsticks such as vaseline would act as a release agent that would help to remove the matchstick more easily. yes pva would hold the filler in place - like it would if one was rendering a wall.
Very helpful - I will be uing your technique for a china clay siding or two... cheers!
I will be making a small building like that somewhere.
Could you link the video for painting the 'concrete'? I tried looking through your videos quickly but couldn't figure out which video it was apart of.
Much appreciated!
Your 'concrete' looks incredible!
Cheers
would it be easier to stick match sticks inside the track where you need that groove for the wheels, of course I would only use blue tack to hold it haven't started my goods yard yet but just a thought
That would be a bit difficult. I've not tried it myself. I would do a test on an old turnout and see how you get on. Perhaps use card or something similar instead?
Thanks for another good one, Would think of mixing a grey colour,before laying plaster ?
.............dt...........
I used polycell interior ready mixed polyfiller for this vid. Exterior filler works fine too. Not sure what the code is, all the polycell stuff should be in the same place in the shop.
Great Video Richard!! Really going to help me with my Layout TMD!!!! :D
Using a sander over track will scratch it right? That's bad isn't it? I'm not sure.
It will. You need to use a fine wet & dry sand paper to finish off. This will remove the scratches from the filler and the rails.
Put some masking tape over the area where you are painting and the surrounding area, and then make a slit in the tape where the lines are going to be. Paint over that slit, and the masking tape left means that there will be no paint bleed.
Any time in the morning is good, you only need to monitor for the first 4-5 hours. After that it begins to set nice and hard.
if i wanted to put fake concete down but not inside the tracks on my long strait's could i just put a very tight fit peice of timber in and remove it when the filler in nearley dry. Cofffee sterers like the ones found in Costa & starbucks are better than match sticks as there alread the same height.
Dont run a loco over wet filler, it will ruin it. To make the grooves use string or a cutting disk like I showed in the video
Great video well done.How long does it take to make from start to finish?
Great tutorial - thank you! I am planning on working my station area this weekend. Question - how would you deal with turnouts? I have one to contend with.
Thanks!
JB
Excellent Video, I've Subscribed, looking forward to your new videos...
No problem, glad it worked out.
You can do that and many people do. I have a nice cutting tool, so I just use that.
I loved it, once again!
great video where did you get the shed?
Couldn't you use the woodland scenics smooth it instead of poly filler?
There is a small airfield about 10 miles away from me.
Excellent tutorial, thank you for sharing : )
Will be getting some at some paint.
Thank you for the how to video. Getting back into modeling after 15 years, but didn't want to start again on aircraft/armor because then I'd want to start detailing everything and there goes my modeling mojo. But zombie dioramas? Oh yeah! Looking at creating city scenes which would include concrete sidewalks and your how to video fills the spot which is why I down loaded it. I do have a question, but it's NOT any kind of criticism. Do train people really lay that much concrete at one time on/around their tracks in real life? I thought the slabs would be smaller as to be more realistic and what about expansion joints between the slabs? Or because of your scale, it's not worth bothering with? Thanks again for the video.
Its usually done in slabs. A pencil line replicates to join nicely.
a few imperfections and fill with clear acrylic to make puddles of water would look ace
Would it be possible to just make an already watery batch just in another container? Just so it's Easter to spread from the start? Thanks.
would it be possible to show us how you did the barrier using match sticks please
Nice job.
Works fine looks good on my layout!
The polyfilla is pre-mixed in the tub. As you can see in the video I put the filler down and then wet the the spreader. The wet spreader softens the filler just enough to make it spread.
I model in N gauge, what would you say I should use instead of matchsticks?
how did you mix the water into the polyfiller plz
Hi, i'm using your method described here on one of our little project layouts - would you mind if I included this instructional video on the layout update? You present it far better than I could! My channel is kewrail if you want to look although the layout i'm using this on isn't featured yet.
How do I do it as mine i could not make grooves for wheels v well I use rady made poly filler str8 from pot
Were did you get the loco shed ?