It's not just the weathering but the time you took to explain every step. I know it's a lot of work working the camera to get the right angles and then talk over everything. That's one reason I don't do more videos, I have an injured back sometimes the pain gets the best of me. So thanks a million for taking the time to do a video like this, you did an amazing job!
A tip a friend of mine used when he was in the local model railway club for masking very small areas (such as lamps) was a blob of KY jelly (seriously). After the paint has dried wipe it off with a damp rag.
Your videos have been an inspiration to me as I return to modelling railways after a break of 20 years. Just watched the loco weathering and you've made a cracking job of it. I'm gonna buy an air brush and have a go myself on an old loco to start with. Thanks for all the videos, keep 'em coming.
The matt varnish comes in the same style pots as the paint does. I mix 50% varnish with 50% thinners in the airbrush. I've tried using matt varish from a spay can before and didn't like the results.
The letters and numbers on the resprayed locos are waterslide transfers which are applied to the model once it's painted, just like you would with an airfix model kit. I buy the transfers for my trains from a comapny called fox transfers.
They come with most new Bachmann diesels. They‘re for disabling particular lights so the loco looks more realistic. Most DCC decoders can't turn off taillights while keeping headlights on.
when airbrushing it gives an overall uniform finish..but I find if you dry brush the finished piece with a slightly lighter shade of colour it highlights the model alot better and re creates shadow and texture..
excellent vid mate. just a couple of bits of info/tips for you. roof fans blow up, because hot air rises, so is easier to suck up than blow down so the fan gets oil and dirt from the cooler groups regarding matt varnish on windows. i always spray my windows with matt varnish. because the windows are so smooth, after about 24 hours you can clean off the window areas with a cocktail stick which means you can have dirty windows on the bodyside and can clean the wiper swept areas of the windscreens
Great Video. You make it look so easy. It must take a certain amount of confidence to weather a new loco. I have bought some really good weathered locos and have paid one of my suppliers to have a bunch weathered. It is something I would consider if I ever get around to building my loft layout. I would suggest a cardboard spray booth though and the wearing of latex gloves before commencing the work lol.
I did a video recently about weathering a passenger loco, but I used my airbrush. I don't use powders very often. It takes a long time to build up the effect you want with powders and they are quite messy to use.
I use transfers made by fox transfers. They are very nice to use but you need a very steady hand. I apply the transfer to the model is roughly the right place. Then you have a few minutes to move it into position with a paint brush before it sets.
Thanks, that was a really comprehensive guide. I would probably have finished off with a little powder weathering in the grills before varnishing, as I feel it gives a bit more of a 3D look to the finish, but you can't argue with the result which looks great!
Thanks, its not easy the first few times. I started with wagons and other cheaper items before doing a loco. I use a spray booth normally, but having to film the process made things a little difficult so I didn't bother.
Great vid, very inspirational. I think I might get an airbrush and have a go. What make/type do you use? Would you also be able to do a video on how you weather your coaches and wagons? Thanks very much.
brilliant.you have done a really good job on all of the 37's! its amazing how realistic the locos look once you have added a bit of grime. and i really like the look of the railfreight 37 and i think i may treat myself to one soon.
really good job and the loco looks superb much better than the out the box look, thanks for the vid and the time explaining , it will help a lot of modelers , thanks again
Hello and firstly may i say what a fantastic set of tutorial and operational videos you have produced, very addictive watching!!!! Can i ask a couple of questions reference your weathering of the Bachmann Class 37. Firstly i noticed when you painted the fuel tanks you didn't mask the fuel gauges, however when finished they looked clean what did you use to remove the over spray on the gauges. Secondly, how did you weather the buffers and buffer beams. Thanks in advance for your advise.
I know I've commented on this video before, but would you be able to do a video on how to clean and look after your airbrush? Also, could you do a video on how to service your locos/coaches/wagons? (eg: taking the wheels out and oiling them, etc)
Another fantastic tutorial ... I will use this as my method for weathering as I do like the fact that you go for a medium level of dirt and grime as this still allows you to see plenty of loco detail. Can I ask you what have you used for the line side trunking on your layout ?
Any chance when you weather a coach you could film a how to as I'm not to sure about how to go about it, hornby mag had a good article about it but it's always better when you see it done to reading about it.
The fans were cooling intakes, but they would have gathered a lot of grime and soot because they probably ended up sucking in a lot of the diesel exhaust that had just been expelled!
The Radiator Fan system on a class 37 is induction though adjustable (New saw them Used), vertical vanes, the radiators were set back to allow a narrow access walkway both sides to and from the Cab sealed by a door at either end of the walkways. The Exhaust ports were very interesting at night as they used to issue forth with a tongue of flame when pulling hard for long periods, it tick over they would often issue occasional puffs of smoke and could have a quite marked rim of soot around them.
Can the varnish make the plastic britle? I saw this thing that said if not done correctly it did just that. If it does is there a way of stopping it or a special method of adding varnish without an airbrush?
Excellent! If you dont mind me sayiny you really nailed it on the bogies. Not a very pleasant area to be around day to day. A good point on rust colouring around the bogies and below. Part of a drivers prep duties were to take note of any rusting areas at one time as you may or may not have known. I don't know what it was about the WR but to me they always seemed to have the dirtiest locos. Can only think it must have been the way they had their running on and running off of depots. Could not get over it when they robbed us of the fifties how they soon looked liked thier fortyseverns. Almost blacked out nose ends and windows. Extremely therapeutic being able to watch your videos. Please don't stop. My era was green, eary blue, BR blue into the rainbow era shall we call it. Its the early blue SYE era that interests me at the moment. Would you have any tips for getting that eary blue colouring please as I have seen it done on a class twentyfive. Kind regards Robert.
If I could share a quick tip, power up the bogie wheels which then spins the axles then with your brush you just lightly press down onto the wheels and you get a very even application of paint, I used the idea all the time on my diesels alas it does not work on steam loco's as not all their tyres turn, just a thought if you've not done it before give it ago safes a lot of time and gives an nice even finish, Great Work, Well Done
Hi, I know this is nothing to do with you weathering, but I just wondered if you had any idea of how to put back the body of my stobart 66 as I took it off to fit the decoder and now it wont go back on. Regards Chris
Thanks, good luck with your layout I don't use sound in any of my locos. Factory sound setups really lack the bass and rumble you get from the real thing. Getting them reblown does make a difference, but I can't justify the extra cost.
Help speed up drying my using the airbrush with no paint. I thought you might have been painting a little too fast but then again I guess you were not painting it for detail just random bust and grime... At any rate nice stuff Really makes me want to get out and make up my down layout...shame I lack space :(
Hi - you have a great rhythm to your videos - makes them easy to watch and take in - have watched a couple - great subjects for the beginner. Question - your matt varnish - do you air-brush or use paint brush?
Hi Richard having problems with my air brush and wondered if you could help, currently weathering my 0 Gauge build, but I'm cleaning the air brush every time I do a paint change, but as soon as I add the enamel paint and thinners approx 50/50 mix, it works initially but then blocks up, have I got the paint to thick or is it something else. Cheers Andy
Hi there again. Love all you're videos. Can you tell me. With Railmatch paints. Do you use the normal railmatch paints or the acrylic ones for airbrushing. Cheers
Hi Richard could I ask you whats the name of the computer software you use for printing your everard junction labels etc. as I'm looking for something similar thanks
Hi thanks for replying. Do you find railmatch paints are easy to thin down. You seem to have no problems with them when airbrushing but forums suggest they don't thin down and clog the airbrush. Thanks again
I haven't had any issues with them, I thin them 50% thinner to 50% paint. I only use the weathering colours though. For resprays and other delicate paintwork I use phoenix precision paint as i prefer the colour match and finish.
R Byrne Depends on many factors such as mix, wastage, number of coats, loco type etc. 1 tin of sleeper grime could probably to the underframe of 15 - 20 locos.
hi great videos every one of them, just wanted to ask how do you remove decals and numbers if you want to change them on a loco of similar type, im only doing a small layout called the poppy line in norfolk, for the trains that actually operate from there or visit from time to time, thanks mate once again for great videos
EverardJunction Awesome, thanks for that. Also another question, I know you said you stay away from acrylics, but is there a reason or just personal preference? Due to my countries import policies I am unable to import enamels without a permit
It's not just the weathering but the time you took to explain every step. I know it's a lot of work working the camera to get the right angles and then talk over everything. That's one reason I don't do more videos, I have an injured back sometimes the pain gets the best of me. So thanks a million for taking the time to do a video like this, you did an amazing job!
A tip a friend of mine used when he was in the local model railway club for masking very small areas (such as lamps) was a blob of KY jelly (seriously).
After the paint has dried wipe it off with a damp rag.
Your videos have been an inspiration to me as I return to modelling railways after a break of 20 years. Just watched the loco weathering and you've made a cracking job of it. I'm gonna buy an air brush and have a go myself on an old loco to start with.
Thanks for all the videos, keep 'em coming.
I am addicted to these videos... Good job weathering that loco.
The matt varnish comes in the same style pots as the paint does. I mix 50% varnish with 50% thinners in the airbrush. I've tried using matt varish from a spay can before and didn't like the results.
The letters and numbers on the resprayed locos are waterslide transfers which are applied to the model once it's painted, just like you would with an airfix model kit.
I buy the transfers for my trains from a comapny called fox transfers.
They come with most new Bachmann diesels. They‘re for disabling particular lights so the loco looks more realistic.
Most DCC decoders can't turn off taillights while keeping headlights on.
when airbrushing it gives an overall uniform finish..but I find if you dry brush the finished piece with a slightly lighter shade of colour it highlights the model alot better and re creates shadow and texture..
excellent vid mate. just a couple of bits of info/tips for you.
roof fans blow up, because hot air rises, so is easier to suck up than blow down so the fan gets oil and dirt from the cooler groups
regarding matt varnish on windows. i always spray my windows with matt varnish. because the windows are so smooth, after about 24 hours you can clean off the window areas with a cocktail stick which means you can have dirty windows on the bodyside and can clean the wiper swept areas of the windscreens
Great Video. You make it look so easy. It must take a certain amount of confidence to weather a new loco. I have bought some really good weathered locos and have paid one of my suppliers to have a bunch weathered. It is something I would consider if I ever get around to building my loft layout. I would suggest a cardboard spray booth though and the wearing of latex gloves before commencing the work lol.
I did a video recently about weathering a passenger loco, but I used my airbrush. I don't use powders very often. It takes a long time to build up the effect you want with powders and they are quite messy to use.
I use transfers made by fox transfers. They are very nice to use but you need a very steady hand. I apply the transfer to the model is roughly the right place. Then you have a few minutes to move it into position with a paint brush before it sets.
I use railmatch paints. Powders are messy and would clog the airbrush. I use about 50% paint with 50% thinner.
Thanks, that was a really comprehensive guide. I would probably have finished off with a little powder weathering in the grills before varnishing, as I feel it gives a bit more of a 3D look to the finish, but you can't argue with the result which looks great!
Thank you mate, it came out very nicely. The N gauge stuff was very hard to do do, I must have repainted or weathered about 15 EWS locos now!
Thanks, its not easy the first few times. I started with wagons and other cheaper items before doing a loco. I use a spray booth normally, but having to film the process made things a little difficult so I didn't bother.
What a fasinating video! I have never seen that done before! Brilliant!
Great vid, very inspirational. I think I might get an airbrush and have a go. What make/type do you use? Would you also be able to do a video on how you weather your coaches and wagons? Thanks very much.
You can weather with a normal brush using washes and powders, but it takes longer and is more difficult to get right.
brilliant.you have done a really good job on all of the 37's!
its amazing how realistic the locos look once you have added a bit of grime.
and i really like the look of the railfreight 37 and i think i may treat myself to one soon.
I'm spraying fast because the video was filmed in time lapse mode. In real time it took me over over an hour to get the model painted.
really good job and the loco looks superb much better than the out the box look, thanks for the vid and the time explaining , it will help a lot of modelers , thanks again
I use paint on locos, powders are useful for textured finishes so I use them for rust on wagons.
The tape is special modeling masking tape by tamiya. It wont peel the paint, normal masking tape can if left on for too long.
I just weathered my N Gauge 150 DMU's think they turned out relay well. May have to make a little film of it running.
How did you apply the matt varnish? Did you use a spray can? Did you decant it into your airbrush? How much did you apply?
My railmatch black is number 205, I use a tiny amount for exhaust ports only.
UK models come with tension lock couplings. I find them to be quite unreliable so I fit most of my items with kadee no.19 couplings.
Great job, your locos look brilliant with all the added weathering!
Hello and firstly may i say what a fantastic set of tutorial and operational videos you have produced, very addictive watching!!!!
Can i ask a couple of questions reference your weathering of the Bachmann Class 37.
Firstly i noticed when you painted the fuel tanks you didn't mask the fuel gauges, however when finished they looked clean what did you use to remove the over spray on the gauges.
Secondly, how did you weather the buffers and buffer beams.
Thanks in advance for your advise.
I know I've commented on this video before, but would you be able to do a video on how to clean and look after your airbrush? Also, could you do a video on how to service your locos/coaches/wagons? (eg: taking the wheels out and oiling them, etc)
Another fantastic tutorial ... I will use this as my method for weathering as I do like the fact that you go for a medium level of dirt and grime as this still allows you to see plenty of loco detail. Can I ask you what have you used for the line side trunking on your layout ?
Fantastic tutorial, just a quick question as I'm fairly new to airbrushing, do you need to thin the varnish or can be used through the airbrush neat?
Any chance when you weather a coach you could film a how to as I'm not to sure about how to go about it, hornby mag had a good article about it but it's always better when you see it done to reading about it.
Just a tiny bit of slight darkening and it just looks so much more beautiful
Fantastic looks the part. Time well spent i imagine its a bit faster when not filming it
The standing thing is called a third hand. It has been in the family for over 20 years, I don't know where it came from.
Thanks, yes it's much faster when there isn't a camera about. I usually do multiple locos or stock at a time.
The fans were cooling intakes, but they would have gathered a lot of grime and soot because they probably ended up sucking in a lot of the diesel exhaust that had just been expelled!
when u use a airbrush do u need special paint or just normal water based paints
Hi are you using Railmatch Arcylic or enamel Paint? Great work by the way
The Radiator Fan system on a class 37 is induction though adjustable (New saw them Used), vertical vanes, the radiators were set back to allow a narrow access walkway both sides to and from the Cab sealed by a door at either end of the walkways.
The Exhaust ports were very interesting at night as they used to issue forth with a tongue of flame when pulling hard for long periods, it tick over they would often issue occasional puffs of smoke and could have a quite marked rim of soot around them.
Is weathering a locomotive hard as it looks? My dad has some old locos and i think a little bit of weathering would be nice for them
On the N gauge 37s, you mention that they have been repainted into EWS. How did you get the EWS and the road number on the loco so even and perfect?
Can the varnish make the plastic britle? I saw this thing that said if not done correctly it did just that. If it does is there a way of stopping it or a special method of adding varnish without an airbrush?
Pure magic, thanks for sharing, very well done,
Do you have any advice about painting steam locos? They tend to have a lot more moving parts around the wheels .
Excellent! If you dont mind me sayiny you really nailed it on the bogies.
Not a very pleasant area to be around day to day. A good point on rust colouring around the bogies and below. Part of a drivers prep duties were to take note of any
rusting areas at one time as you may or may not have known.
I don't know what it was about the WR but to me they always seemed to have the dirtiest locos. Can only think it must have been the way they had their running on and
running off of depots. Could not get over it when they robbed us of the fifties how they soon looked liked thier fortyseverns. Almost blacked out nose ends and windows.
Extremely therapeutic being able to watch your videos. Please don't stop.
My era was green, eary blue, BR blue into the rainbow era shall we call it. Its the early blue SYE era that interests me at the moment. Would you have any tips for getting
that eary blue colouring please as I have seen it done on a class twentyfive.
Kind regards
Robert.
Great bit of kit, much better than my old one!
hi do you use powders or paint. because im a bit confused between the differences and the effects
would you be able to show us how to weather coaching stock and the odd wagon?
How much sleeper grime paint would you need to weather two average diesel bottles would 1 bottle be enough
Love your videos this makes weathering look simple enough for me to have a go what model air compressor is it? Thanks
If I could share a quick tip, power up the bogie wheels which then spins the axles then with your brush you just lightly press down onto the wheels and you get a very even application of paint, I used the idea all the time on my diesels alas it does not work on steam loco's as not all their tyres turn, just a thought if you've not done it before give it ago safes a lot of time and gives an nice even finish, Great Work, Well Done
And I see that the 00 37 has KD couplings, arn't all British Models made with Tension Lock couplers or did you modify it.
My airbrush is an Iwata HP-CS. It can only be used with paint.
Hi, I know this is nothing to do with you weathering, but I just wondered if you had any idea of how to put back the body of my stobart 66 as I took it off to fit the decoder and now it wont go back on.
Regards
Chris
I will be doing a video about weathering a DMU, the same method can be used for coaches.
I've not heard of that. I've varnished most of my locos including a number of N gauge ones. All have been fine.
i was just wondering what size your main bus wires are please could you reply it would really help me thanks :)
what ratio of railmatch paint to thinners do you use to do loco, waggon/ coach and senic weathering
Great video well done. Do youuse powders aswell?
Great video, what airbrush do you use
i just want to ask a question what about the locomotives that were due for a respray irl
Thanks, good luck with your layout
I don't use sound in any of my locos. Factory sound setups really lack the bass and rumble you get from the real thing. Getting them reblown does make a difference, but I can't justify the extra cost.
I think I know why I like this channel, There is NO ADVERTS!
The airbrush was bought from an ebay shop, can't remember which one.
The paint comes from howes models
The couplers come from sharp models
Thanks! Do you need thinner as well?
I use oil based paints, but water based work fine too.
Help speed up drying my using the airbrush with no paint. I thought you might have been painting a little too fast but then again I guess you were not painting it for detail just random bust and grime...
At any rate nice stuff Really makes me want to get out and make up my down layout...shame I lack space :(
It isn't the easiest thing to do, but with practice you can get quite good at it.
Hi - you have a great rhythm to your videos - makes them easy to watch and take in - have watched a couple - great subjects for the beginner. Question - your matt varnish - do you air-brush or use paint brush?
John Longbottom Thanks, I airbrush all the varnishes to the models.
Because that is the colour my friend wants them in. They are not currently available in EWS.
Do you mix powder with the thinner for the air brush?
An airbrush will get you a better finish, but there is nothing wrong with using a paint brush.
The compressor is an ACS-AS182
I use blue tack for that sort of thing, but most stuff will work.
Thanks, more videos on the way.
Thanks for sharing with us, great video, will now have ago myself
Use use an airbrush for the whole process. I thin the varnish down just like the paint.
excellent work and excellent vid, thanks for the upload keep em coming
There's a 37 in that livery at the Keighley worth valley railway
Hi Richard having problems with my air brush and wondered if you could help, currently weathering my 0 Gauge build, but I'm cleaning the air brush every time I do a paint change, but as soon as I add the enamel paint and thinners approx 50/50 mix, it works initially but then blocks up, have I got the paint to thick or is it something else. Cheers Andy
Hi there again. Love all you're videos. Can you tell me. With Railmatch paints. Do you use the normal railmatch paints or the acrylic ones for airbrushing.
Cheers
I use the normal ones. I tend to stay away from spraying with acrylic.
Hi Richard could I ask you whats the name of the computer software you use for printing your everard junction labels etc. as I'm looking for something similar thanks
So far all the station and depot signs have been made just using Microsoft Paint.
Jack Brown Paint.net is good neither to use.
Lighting controls, one switch for cab lights, the other for tail lights.
Great video, you make it look easy
Hi thanks for replying. Do you find railmatch paints are easy to thin down. You seem to have no problems with them when airbrushing but forums suggest they don't thin down and clog the airbrush. Thanks again
I haven't had any issues with them, I thin them 50% thinner to 50% paint. I only use the weathering colours though. For resprays and other delicate paintwork I use phoenix precision paint as i prefer the colour match and finish.
Hi l'm new to weathering, what kind of compressor do you use? l've found a spray gun but want to know which compressor would be best. Thanks
How long would you get out of those tins of paint? Or how many locos and track could you do?
R Byrne Depends on many factors such as mix, wastage, number of coats, loco type etc. 1 tin of sleeper grime could probably to the underframe of 15 - 20 locos.
Excellent thank you very much, really appreciate your help and time and enjoy your videos.
Robert
and your standing thing at 16:00 where you got it from?
hi great videos every one of them, just wanted to ask how do you remove decals and numbers if you want to change them on a loco of similar type, im only doing a small layout called the poppy line in norfolk, for the trains that actually operate from there or visit from time to time, thanks mate once again for great videos
Nice I want to see your finished North Norfolk railway:)
what do you do with all the rusty bits @8:27
Is there any paint similar to roof dirt that is slightly darker
Hi Richard, when you go the exhaust and vents, what colour mix do you use?
Jon Hooton I used roof dirt with some black mixed in to give a darker look.
thank you ☺.
Hi there, how many locos would you say a standard railmatch paint (15mL) could do?
Bryce Naughton That depends on how much weathering you intend on applying to each loco. You should be able to do about 10 or so.
EverardJunction Awesome, thanks for that. Also another question, I know you said you stay away from acrylics, but is there a reason or just personal preference? Due to my countries import policies I am unable to import enamels without a permit
and where did you these small paintings from?
Hey guys I've just started my layout and im filming the progress, id be grateful if you watched and left some constructive coments thanks:)
Why is there blood at the end near the loco ? Around 21:20
railblue is also a good site for loco photos, like the layout and the tutorials keep them
coming just planning my new layout your vids will help.