It's not just the weathering but the time you took to explain every step. I know it's a lot of work working the camera to get the right angles and then talk over everything. That's one reason I don't do more videos, I have an injured back sometimes the pain gets the best of me. So thanks a million for taking the time to do a video like this, you did an amazing job!
Your videos have been an inspiration to me as I return to modelling railways after a break of 20 years. Just watched the loco weathering and you've made a cracking job of it. I'm gonna buy an air brush and have a go myself on an old loco to start with. Thanks for all the videos, keep 'em coming.
A tip a friend of mine used when he was in the local model railway club for masking very small areas (such as lamps) was a blob of KY jelly (seriously). After the paint has dried wipe it off with a damp rag.
really good job and the loco looks superb much better than the out the box look, thanks for the vid and the time explaining , it will help a lot of modelers , thanks again
Great Video. You make it look so easy. It must take a certain amount of confidence to weather a new loco. I have bought some really good weathered locos and have paid one of my suppliers to have a bunch weathered. It is something I would consider if I ever get around to building my loft layout. I would suggest a cardboard spray booth though and the wearing of latex gloves before commencing the work lol.
excellent vid mate. just a couple of bits of info/tips for you. roof fans blow up, because hot air rises, so is easier to suck up than blow down so the fan gets oil and dirt from the cooler groups regarding matt varnish on windows. i always spray my windows with matt varnish. because the windows are so smooth, after about 24 hours you can clean off the window areas with a cocktail stick which means you can have dirty windows on the bodyside and can clean the wiper swept areas of the windscreens
brilliant.you have done a really good job on all of the 37's! its amazing how realistic the locos look once you have added a bit of grime. and i really like the look of the railfreight 37 and i think i may treat myself to one soon.
Thanks, that was a really comprehensive guide. I would probably have finished off with a little powder weathering in the grills before varnishing, as I feel it gives a bit more of a 3D look to the finish, but you can't argue with the result which looks great!
when airbrushing it gives an overall uniform finish..but I find if you dry brush the finished piece with a slightly lighter shade of colour it highlights the model alot better and re creates shadow and texture..
The letters and numbers on the resprayed locos are waterslide transfers which are applied to the model once it's painted, just like you would with an airfix model kit. I buy the transfers for my trains from a comapny called fox transfers.
They come with most new Bachmann diesels. They‘re for disabling particular lights so the loco looks more realistic. Most DCC decoders can't turn off taillights while keeping headlights on.
If I could share a quick tip, power up the bogie wheels which then spins the axles then with your brush you just lightly press down onto the wheels and you get a very even application of paint, I used the idea all the time on my diesels alas it does not work on steam loco's as not all their tyres turn, just a thought if you've not done it before give it ago safes a lot of time and gives an nice even finish, Great Work, Well Done
The Radiator Fan system on a class 37 is induction though adjustable (New saw them Used), vertical vanes, the radiators were set back to allow a narrow access walkway both sides to and from the Cab sealed by a door at either end of the walkways. The Exhaust ports were very interesting at night as they used to issue forth with a tongue of flame when pulling hard for long periods, it tick over they would often issue occasional puffs of smoke and could have a quite marked rim of soot around them.
I use transfers made by fox transfers. They are very nice to use but you need a very steady hand. I apply the transfer to the model is roughly the right place. Then you have a few minutes to move it into position with a paint brush before it sets.
Great vid, very inspirational. I think I might get an airbrush and have a go. What make/type do you use? Would you also be able to do a video on how you weather your coaches and wagons? Thanks very much.
I did a video recently about weathering a passenger loco, but I used my airbrush. I don't use powders very often. It takes a long time to build up the effect you want with powders and they are quite messy to use.
The matt varnish comes in the same style pots as the paint does. I mix 50% varnish with 50% thinners in the airbrush. I've tried using matt varish from a spay can before and didn't like the results.
Thanks, its not easy the first few times. I started with wagons and other cheaper items before doing a loco. I use a spray booth normally, but having to film the process made things a little difficult so I didn't bother.
Excellent! If you dont mind me sayiny you really nailed it on the bogies. Not a very pleasant area to be around day to day. A good point on rust colouring around the bogies and below. Part of a drivers prep duties were to take note of any rusting areas at one time as you may or may not have known. I don't know what it was about the WR but to me they always seemed to have the dirtiest locos. Can only think it must have been the way they had their running on and running off of depots. Could not get over it when they robbed us of the fifties how they soon looked liked thier fortyseverns. Almost blacked out nose ends and windows. Extremely therapeutic being able to watch your videos. Please don't stop. My era was green, eary blue, BR blue into the rainbow era shall we call it. Its the early blue SYE era that interests me at the moment. Would you have any tips for getting that eary blue colouring please as I have seen it done on a class twentyfive. Kind regards Robert.
Another fantastic tutorial ... I will use this as my method for weathering as I do like the fact that you go for a medium level of dirt and grime as this still allows you to see plenty of loco detail. Can I ask you what have you used for the line side trunking on your layout ?
I know I've commented on this video before, but would you be able to do a video on how to clean and look after your airbrush? Also, could you do a video on how to service your locos/coaches/wagons? (eg: taking the wheels out and oiling them, etc)
Hello and firstly may i say what a fantastic set of tutorial and operational videos you have produced, very addictive watching!!!! Can i ask a couple of questions reference your weathering of the Bachmann Class 37. Firstly i noticed when you painted the fuel tanks you didn't mask the fuel gauges, however when finished they looked clean what did you use to remove the over spray on the gauges. Secondly, how did you weather the buffers and buffer beams. Thanks in advance for your advise.
The fans were cooling intakes, but they would have gathered a lot of grime and soot because they probably ended up sucking in a lot of the diesel exhaust that had just been expelled!
Any chance when you weather a coach you could film a how to as I'm not to sure about how to go about it, hornby mag had a good article about it but it's always better when you see it done to reading about it.
Can the varnish make the plastic britle? I saw this thing that said if not done correctly it did just that. If it does is there a way of stopping it or a special method of adding varnish without an airbrush?
Thanks, good luck with your layout I don't use sound in any of my locos. Factory sound setups really lack the bass and rumble you get from the real thing. Getting them reblown does make a difference, but I can't justify the extra cost.
Hi there again. Love all you're videos. Can you tell me. With Railmatch paints. Do you use the normal railmatch paints or the acrylic ones for airbrushing. Cheers
Hi - you have a great rhythm to your videos - makes them easy to watch and take in - have watched a couple - great subjects for the beginner. Question - your matt varnish - do you air-brush or use paint brush?
Hi Richard having problems with my air brush and wondered if you could help, currently weathering my 0 Gauge build, but I'm cleaning the air brush every time I do a paint change, but as soon as I add the enamel paint and thinners approx 50/50 mix, it works initially but then blocks up, have I got the paint to thick or is it something else. Cheers Andy
It's not just the weathering but the time you took to explain every step. I know it's a lot of work working the camera to get the right angles and then talk over everything. That's one reason I don't do more videos, I have an injured back sometimes the pain gets the best of me. So thanks a million for taking the time to do a video like this, you did an amazing job!
Your videos have been an inspiration to me as I return to modelling railways after a break of 20 years. Just watched the loco weathering and you've made a cracking job of it. I'm gonna buy an air brush and have a go myself on an old loco to start with.
Thanks for all the videos, keep 'em coming.
A tip a friend of mine used when he was in the local model railway club for masking very small areas (such as lamps) was a blob of KY jelly (seriously).
After the paint has dried wipe it off with a damp rag.
I am addicted to these videos... Good job weathering that loco.
really good job and the loco looks superb much better than the out the box look, thanks for the vid and the time explaining , it will help a lot of modelers , thanks again
What a fasinating video! I have never seen that done before! Brilliant!
Great Video. You make it look so easy. It must take a certain amount of confidence to weather a new loco. I have bought some really good weathered locos and have paid one of my suppliers to have a bunch weathered. It is something I would consider if I ever get around to building my loft layout. I would suggest a cardboard spray booth though and the wearing of latex gloves before commencing the work lol.
excellent vid mate. just a couple of bits of info/tips for you.
roof fans blow up, because hot air rises, so is easier to suck up than blow down so the fan gets oil and dirt from the cooler groups
regarding matt varnish on windows. i always spray my windows with matt varnish. because the windows are so smooth, after about 24 hours you can clean off the window areas with a cocktail stick which means you can have dirty windows on the bodyside and can clean the wiper swept areas of the windscreens
brilliant.you have done a really good job on all of the 37's!
its amazing how realistic the locos look once you have added a bit of grime.
and i really like the look of the railfreight 37 and i think i may treat myself to one soon.
Thanks, that was a really comprehensive guide. I would probably have finished off with a little powder weathering in the grills before varnishing, as I feel it gives a bit more of a 3D look to the finish, but you can't argue with the result which looks great!
Great job, your locos look brilliant with all the added weathering!
Thank you mate, it came out very nicely. The N gauge stuff was very hard to do do, I must have repainted or weathered about 15 EWS locos now!
Great bit of kit, much better than my old one!
when airbrushing it gives an overall uniform finish..but I find if you dry brush the finished piece with a slightly lighter shade of colour it highlights the model alot better and re creates shadow and texture..
excellent work and excellent vid, thanks for the upload keep em coming
Great video, you make it look easy
Pure magic, thanks for sharing, very well done,
The letters and numbers on the resprayed locos are waterslide transfers which are applied to the model once it's painted, just like you would with an airfix model kit.
I buy the transfers for my trains from a comapny called fox transfers.
They come with most new Bachmann diesels. They‘re for disabling particular lights so the loco looks more realistic.
Most DCC decoders can't turn off taillights while keeping headlights on.
If I could share a quick tip, power up the bogie wheels which then spins the axles then with your brush you just lightly press down onto the wheels and you get a very even application of paint, I used the idea all the time on my diesels alas it does not work on steam loco's as not all their tyres turn, just a thought if you've not done it before give it ago safes a lot of time and gives an nice even finish, Great Work, Well Done
The Radiator Fan system on a class 37 is induction though adjustable (New saw them Used), vertical vanes, the radiators were set back to allow a narrow access walkway both sides to and from the Cab sealed by a door at either end of the walkways.
The Exhaust ports were very interesting at night as they used to issue forth with a tongue of flame when pulling hard for long periods, it tick over they would often issue occasional puffs of smoke and could have a quite marked rim of soot around them.
I'm spraying fast because the video was filmed in time lapse mode. In real time it took me over over an hour to get the model painted.
Wow that was really good!! Keep up the great videos
Thanks for sharing with us, great video, will now have ago myself
I think I know why I like this channel, There is NO ADVERTS!
Fantastic looks the part. Time well spent i imagine its a bit faster when not filming it
I use transfers made by fox transfers. They are very nice to use but you need a very steady hand. I apply the transfer to the model is roughly the right place. Then you have a few minutes to move it into position with a paint brush before it sets.
thank you for the tips it has been really helpfull and i love your layout
Great vid, very inspirational. I think I might get an airbrush and have a go. What make/type do you use? Would you also be able to do a video on how you weather your coaches and wagons? Thanks very much.
wow great weathering and layout thx
I did a video recently about weathering a passenger loco, but I used my airbrush. I don't use powders very often. It takes a long time to build up the effect you want with powders and they are quite messy to use.
The matt varnish comes in the same style pots as the paint does. I mix 50% varnish with 50% thinners in the airbrush. I've tried using matt varish from a spay can before and didn't like the results.
Just a tiny bit of slight darkening and it just looks so much more beautiful
railblue is also a good site for loco photos, like the layout and the tutorials keep them
coming just planning my new layout your vids will help.
I use paint on locos, powders are useful for textured finishes so I use them for rust on wagons.
Woaw ! very professional, well done Terry . Fives stars !
Thanks, its not easy the first few times. I started with wagons and other cheaper items before doing a loco. I use a spray booth normally, but having to film the process made things a little difficult so I didn't bother.
Superb work and superb tutorial. Thanks
I just weathered my N Gauge 150 DMU's think they turned out relay well. May have to make a little film of it running.
I use railmatch paints. Powders are messy and would clog the airbrush. I use about 50% paint with 50% thinner.
Such a nice job
Inspired! Love your work!
nice job, that is how i like to to mine not over weathered.
blimey.well your the man for the job.
i got that loco in the same running number, but the livery without the red stripe which I think is a bit nicer, nice coincidence :)
Excellent! If you dont mind me sayiny you really nailed it on the bogies.
Not a very pleasant area to be around day to day. A good point on rust colouring around the bogies and below. Part of a drivers prep duties were to take note of any
rusting areas at one time as you may or may not have known.
I don't know what it was about the WR but to me they always seemed to have the dirtiest locos. Can only think it must have been the way they had their running on and
running off of depots. Could not get over it when they robbed us of the fifties how they soon looked liked thier fortyseverns. Almost blacked out nose ends and windows.
Extremely therapeutic being able to watch your videos. Please don't stop.
My era was green, eary blue, BR blue into the rainbow era shall we call it. Its the early blue SYE era that interests me at the moment. Would you have any tips for getting
that eary blue colouring please as I have seen it done on a class twentyfive.
Kind regards
Robert.
My railmatch black is number 205, I use a tiny amount for exhaust ports only.
Another fantastic tutorial ... I will use this as my method for weathering as I do like the fact that you go for a medium level of dirt and grime as this still allows you to see plenty of loco detail. Can I ask you what have you used for the line side trunking on your layout ?
You can weather with a normal brush using washes and powders, but it takes longer and is more difficult to get right.
I've not heard of that. I've varnished most of my locos including a number of N gauge ones. All have been fine.
I know I've commented on this video before, but would you be able to do a video on how to clean and look after your airbrush? Also, could you do a video on how to service your locos/coaches/wagons? (eg: taking the wheels out and oiling them, etc)
great vid it really makes a difference,
Excellent job.
Hello and firstly may i say what a fantastic set of tutorial and operational videos you have produced, very addictive watching!!!!
Can i ask a couple of questions reference your weathering of the Bachmann Class 37.
Firstly i noticed when you painted the fuel tanks you didn't mask the fuel gauges, however when finished they looked clean what did you use to remove the over spray on the gauges.
Secondly, how did you weather the buffers and buffer beams.
Thanks in advance for your advise.
The fans were cooling intakes, but they would have gathered a lot of grime and soot because they probably ended up sucking in a lot of the diesel exhaust that had just been expelled!
The tape is special modeling masking tape by tamiya. It wont peel the paint, normal masking tape can if left on for too long.
How did you apply the matt varnish? Did you use a spray can? Did you decant it into your airbrush? How much did you apply?
a fantastic video
I will be doing a video about weathering a DMU, the same method can be used for coaches.
Fantastic tutorial, just a quick question as I'm fairly new to airbrushing, do you need to thin the varnish or can be used through the airbrush neat?
UK models come with tension lock couplings. I find them to be quite unreliable so I fit most of my items with kadee no.19 couplings.
Any chance when you weather a coach you could film a how to as I'm not to sure about how to go about it, hornby mag had a good article about it but it's always better when you see it done to reading about it.
I use oil based paints, but water based work fine too.
Thanks, yes it's much faster when there isn't a camera about. I usually do multiple locos or stock at a time.
Thanks, more videos on the way.
Love your videos this makes weathering look simple enough for me to have a go what model air compressor is it? Thanks
Great Video
There's a 37 in that livery at the Keighley worth valley railway
Thanks for this video!!! Isaved it for later use! Regards, Onno.
It isn't the easiest thing to do, but with practice you can get quite good at it.
Hi are you using Railmatch Arcylic or enamel Paint? Great work by the way
Do you have any advice about painting steam locos? They tend to have a lot more moving parts around the wheels .
Is weathering a locomotive hard as it looks? My dad has some old locos and i think a little bit of weathering would be nice for them
Can the varnish make the plastic britle? I saw this thing that said if not done correctly it did just that. If it does is there a way of stopping it or a special method of adding varnish without an airbrush?
when u use a airbrush do u need special paint or just normal water based paints
Thanks, good luck with your layout
I don't use sound in any of my locos. Factory sound setups really lack the bass and rumble you get from the real thing. Getting them reblown does make a difference, but I can't justify the extra cost.
Gonna weather and attach the detail to my freightliner 90
On the N gauge 37s, you mention that they have been repainted into EWS. How did you get the EWS and the road number on the loco so even and perfect?
The standing thing is called a third hand. It has been in the family for over 20 years, I don't know where it came from.
Great video, what airbrush do you use
Great video well done. Do youuse powders aswell?
Lighting controls, one switch for cab lights, the other for tail lights.
The airbrush was bought from an ebay shop, can't remember which one.
The paint comes from howes models
The couplers come from sharp models
hi do you use powders or paint. because im a bit confused between the differences and the effects
Brilliant!
Thanks! Do you need thinner as well?
would you be able to show us how to weather coaching stock and the odd wagon?
Personally much better intro mate very impressed.
My airbrush is an Iwata HP-CS. It can only be used with paint.
what ratio of railmatch paint to thinners do you use to do loco, waggon/ coach and senic weathering
An airbrush will get you a better finish, but there is nothing wrong with using a paint brush.
Hi there again. Love all you're videos. Can you tell me. With Railmatch paints. Do you use the normal railmatch paints or the acrylic ones for airbrushing.
Cheers
I use the normal ones. I tend to stay away from spraying with acrylic.
Hi - you have a great rhythm to your videos - makes them easy to watch and take in - have watched a couple - great subjects for the beginner. Question - your matt varnish - do you air-brush or use paint brush?
John Longbottom Thanks, I airbrush all the varnishes to the models.
i was just wondering what size your main bus wires are please could you reply it would really help me thanks :)
Hi great stuff by any chance you was at Whitwell's 2013 model exhibition because there was a person with a airbrush weathering
Thanks, that would explain the dirt!
Do you mix powder with the thinner for the air brush?
How much sleeper grime paint would you need to weather two average diesel bottles would 1 bottle be enough
Hi Richard having problems with my air brush and wondered if you could help, currently weathering my 0 Gauge build, but I'm cleaning the air brush every time I do a paint change, but as soon as I add the enamel paint and thinners approx 50/50 mix, it works initially but then blocks up, have I got the paint to thick or is it something else. Cheers Andy
The compressor is an ACS-AS182