Nice one Stefan I was a machine tool fitter (millwright) for nearly 50 years. I had to learn the trade the hard way. I served 7 years as an apprentice instead of the normal 5 years Scraping was all done by hand when I started so I watched your video with great interest What impresses me most about you is your attention to detail Your a tradesman of the highest standard and I always look forward to your videos Take Care and keep up the good work Pete (UK)
I'm actually doing the exact same thing on my own Schaublin slide. I had trouble taking mine apart. There is a central boss in the middle of the lower slide (that the one you have is missing) that slots into the leadscrew nut. That means that you can't simply slide the lower part off. Incidentally, it's not a pair of angular contact bearings for the leadscrew, it's a single bearing that's got the outer race split into two rings. The bearing is pre-loaded by changing the distance between the two rings. A very interesting design and one I've not seen anywhere else. To make it more interesting, the races are metric, the balls are imperial, 5/16". I also decided not to replace my gib. It was 180€ for a new one, so I machined the old one flat and epoxied on a piece of bronze. If anyone's interested in the process, I can post a video. Mine was worn a similar amount and I believe that was because the previous owner used grease instead of oil.
I own an old Schaublin 102, circa 1930s, and deeply enjoyed this. Glad to see someone going to the effort of repairing something this high end seriously. Ive worked on modern servodrive versions of this lathe in watchmaking school- these crossslides are nearly unchanged inside from models over 50 years old. Hard to improve on perfection!
Your customer trusted you with reconditioning their Schaublin compound slide - I think that speaks volumes about your care and attention to detail and the quality of your work. I am impressed!
Stefan, Nice work, solid techniques and attention to the details of getting it right. There are ways to get around this effort, but the more prudent approach is in your work. A friend of mine, a mentor too, who has many years of this work rattling around in his head simplifies it this way…. FPS, everything can simply be reduced to Flat, Parallel, Square and then the rest is easy. So simple when you look at a part, “how do I get this Flat, Parallel and Square. Thanks for showing this work.
The "Old" hammer trick. Richard taught me that when I was scraping a Cast Iron 45 degree triangle similar to the one hiding behind your surface plate. Hinging and the hammer test sure save me time now that I know about them. Great video Stefan.
As expected an extremely well explained and detailed process of what's involved Stefan. And the first time I've seen that setup for checking how parallel the male dovetail is. Now that I have seen it I'd certainly agree it's an easier and likely a bit less error prone method than measuring across the pins with a micrometer. Time wise both methods are probably about the same. Detailed videos like this give me some hope of finally doing to my lathe what you did a long time ago to yours. Many thanks for taking the time and going to the effort. It's very much appreciated.
we give our fractions names, meter is 1/1, decimeter 1/10, centimeter, 1/100, millimeter 1/1000, micrometer, nanometer and so on... hell the prefixes indicate the fraction or multiplier of the base value. Meanwhile imperial which has some values based on metric because there were too many inconsistencies between say the inch country to country. Metric sure is a great system, logical too
Following you on Instagram for a while now... Just started watching your videos. They are fantastic!! I'm a hobbyist machinist/engine builder and your videos are extremely enlightening!!
All those nice pre squared parts sure do make it easier to work with. In the states especially on old machines they didn't do anything but cast most every surface that wasn't used so mapping and setting things up to fix them can really be a challenge.
Ha, the dreaded old machines with their nice courves. Schaublin has a reputation to machine even non-critical surfaces to a high degree of precision. Surfaces that other manufacturers would just leave as a rough casting, Schaublin would flycut or surfacegrind them and leave them bare metal. Especially on the slightly newer Schaublin lathes and mills from the 70s up to today.
Not all machines built in the US have the characteristic of lots of cast surfaces. For the most part this had to do with cost issues. Schaublin builds high end machinery. As did Monarch, Hardinge and others. Note not all Hardinge or Monarchs were built to the highest quality standards. In the US the highest quality lathes were generally known as either Tool Room Lathes or Instrument Lathes (some makers would also hang the tag on lesser machines unfortunately). In terms of manual precision lathes there are a select few. Schaublin, Monarch 10EE's, some Rivett's, Hardinge HLV-H/ER's and some European brands.
Very interesting project. I'd love to pick your brain about surface grinding if you have some time. I have always admired the quality of work you have been able to achieve with yours, and I just obtained one myself yesterday (although it isn't running yet).
Stefan - when step scraping reverse what you are doing. Do 5 first, then 4 and 5, then 3-5, then 2-5, and finally 1-5. That way you don't loose your area markings.
I learned machining skills on a technical school built up by a Swiss team. Absolutelly everything was swiss made, from the simplest file to big machines, everything was Schaublin, Aciera, Tesa, Etalon, SIP, etc... (except the optics lab which was built by Carl Zeiss Jena)... The course took 4 years from 7am to 5pm every day and one of the machines we learned tho deal with in the first year was a Schaublin 102. In the second year we used the Schaublin 102VM and in the third year we used Schaublin 125.
Love it.. already one of the best scraping vids on youtube.. oh and I bought about 900 euro worth of stuff from Hoffman Group thanks to you because you sort of advertised it :)
I already saw them at about 3 trade shows and there's something about putting a colored band on an end mill that catches my eye (I saw the 2 Holex thread mills on your instagram and instantly remembered that that's the brand I've been seeing at the tradeshows). Btw I think the invoice has still been not payed (have to check with my finance guy) so you don't have to be sorry.. for now :D
I learned a ton from this video. Excellent work. Well shot and explained and all from a guy who has English a second language? I am really going to have to step up my game. This video couldn't have been any better if it had been scripted.
Stefan, I am putting a CNC Router together, I bought some 6061 T6 Alum T-slot in a slightly used condition and need to stone one face. It is 45 x 180 and will support the X Axis bearing rail. One of the 45mm faces is a little rough. So what may be used to take nicks and burrs off of this material? A stone would become clogged. But I do have a cross ( or double) cut axe file. I have heard that a light coat of tapping or cutting oil may help reduce loading of aluminum shaving. I am only removing the smallest of chowdering,... to sneak up on it, not resurface the entire length:-) Thank god I have one virgin edge for my Hiwin Bearing rails :-)
This is just awesome Stefan. Really good information on restoring the dove tails on a lathe by scraping. All the information on the measurements are also really useful. That is half the job, to do proper measurements before and during scraping. I have not done any scraping, but as the owner of several well used machines the need arises soon when you get into precision machining. I know my machines needs a serious improvement. However, I don't feel i should jump right into scraping my Schaublin mill as the first job. So I think the old Myford that I am not using any more could be a good candidate, after I have practiced on some machinist blocks and other items. I came across a (practically) unused Biax the other day. I read somewhere that they run around €3K new, I can have this for way less. Is it a must have you think for scraping?
For larger machines a powerscraper is nice as it speeds up work immensly, but for small stuff like this compound or even my mill I think you could get along without a powerscraper. For smaller dovetails its not helping anyway. But it shines on large surfaces :) Thanks for watching!
This is awesome information. In the states, where can we find straight edges for bluing ways? Especially beveled edges that will fit small ways? I have a scraper and surface plate, but am struggling to find a few tools. Including the base and arm for my dial test indicator. I just don’t know the proper terminology. My searches came up empty!
Hey Stefan! :) Since this is a customer's job I'd like to know what you (roughly) charge for something like that.. I guess there are many many hours going into this. If you don't want to tell the world that's fine too. Anyways, great work! I love your attention to detail and your perfectionism :D
Hi there! Very nice explanation of step-scraping. Thanks! Also, how do you cut-off carbide mills? I can't find proper diamond cut-off wheel for that...
What happens to the measurement accuracy of the setup with the pins if the lower dovetail is worn? I'm referring to the setup that you are using to scrape the angled ways.
I had to take a nap about thirty minutes in but that's alright. It gives me a chance to absorb all the heavy knowledge intake. If my teachers had understood that I would've come out a genius of epic proportion.
I can't help thinking that there is an easier way to keep track with the step scraping. If you start scraping square 1, then change direction and scrape 2 & 1, then change direction and scrape 3,2 & 1 etc. This way you don't need to remark the squares and it should be impossible to lose your place. Unless of course I'm missing something :). Anyway thanks as always for sharing. I am looking forward to more.
Odd, My first thought (With ZERO experience) would have been Scrape #5, Then 5 and 4, then 5-4-3, then 5-4-3-2, then 5-1. If interrupted at the end of the 3rd pass, you'd know where to start since the squares number 2 and 1 would still be labeled...
When youre scraping Stefan, work back towards yourself. Start scraping at the furthest most area and scrape away from yourself as usual, but each row should come back towards you. The reason you do this is to avoid scraping over the chips you have just created. Just like any machining process, recutting chips is bad for tool life, and it can make a big difference for how long you go between regrinding the scraper, especially if youre running a well honed scraper. The surface finish will be a touch neater too. Great vids though mate, this is a job Ive been contemplating with my own machine.
That's not just a repair, that's an upgrade! Going from ground to scraped surfaces... US/Imperial standard uses the decimal system but binary fraction lengths. It would make much more sense to use base-2 or base-16 for inch dimensions.
At 2:32 did the bench attack your foot? Mine does that from time to time. When the video ended I said v"Wait, that was only fifteen minutes, not forty minutes. This was extremely interesting. Thank you.
I like how you just posted this video as I’m starting on rebuilding Hardinge slides. Hopefully I’ll learn some new techniques. Is your grinder to small to sidewheel it first?
Yes, slightly to small, and I am not sure if sidewheeling a dovetail is SO much fun. We do it at work with large die-sets that have a dovetailmount to the press, but our grinders there are "slightly" larger and run full flood cooleant.
Yea your right about the coolant, that’s how I run it and could see it not being fun without. Really liked the two videos, I always pick up some new techniques watching you work.
Could you have ground the majority of the flat, to get it straight level and a reference, and then scraped the extra bit, under the dovetail, in the same way you did with the unworn ridge? I just thought it would save most of the rough scraping.
It is amazing how many people struggle with the concept that decimal notation is just fractions written in a different form. I remember teaching my kids when they were in school. One daughter got it the first time but the other could never quite absorb the concept. She works at the bank while the other daughter is a scientist.
Hi Stefan, great job ! at 25:30 i dont understand why you went from 1 to 5 ? i would have scraped from 5 to 1 ...(5 once, then 5-4, then 5-4-3, then 5-4-3-2 and finaly 5-4-3-2-1) ... unless you are an artist and like to much using your marker pen ;^)
Thanks for video and hope I don't need to go this far. I just bought a 102 and discovered that it has a chip out of the bed of about 3-4mm, where someone has dropped the screwcutting accessory head. Should I do something about the damage? Otherwise all good.
Its a medium grit knife edge india / aluminium oxide stone - I got mine from Richard King, I think he gets them from MSC or another tooling supplier in the US.
It's easy enough, when you've lived with it your entire life. ;>) Just remember the numerator is always odd (for lowest common denominator) and the denominators are ascending powers of 2 (2 4 8 16 32 64). 1/64 of an inch = 0.397 mM. and that happens to be the wood working tolerance, when foundry pattern making. Eli D.
Stefan, just for knowledge: would the last setup you showed introduce some errors ? You have to be sure the parallel is dead precise, and so the two ping must be exactly the same size. Is the paralles is not full parallel by, say, 0.005 and the pin differs by 0,005 you can have 0 ( if the error subtracts ) 0,01 ( if the errors sum ). Am I missing something ?
Except Americans spell it wrong. It should be milimetre and micrometre. As a fringe benefit, this distinguishes the latter from the glorified G clamp used for fine measurement!
I'm a little surprised that with that amount of wear that you didn't start by grinding the face of the dovetail, like you did with the slide. You'ld need a cup wheel of course and grind with the part on edge, but still...
"Relatively well made" out of the mouth of a German means more like "Maybe there is something in the world that is equally well made, but I dont think there has ever existed anything that is made better" ;D
Nice one Stefan I was a machine tool fitter (millwright) for nearly 50 years. I had to learn the trade the hard way. I served 7 years as an apprentice instead of the normal 5 years Scraping was all done by hand when I started so I watched your video with great interest What impresses me most about you is your attention to detail Your a tradesman of the highest standard and I always look forward to your videos Take Care and keep up the good work Pete (UK)
Here Here, well said Peter.
I'm actually doing the exact same thing on my own Schaublin slide. I had trouble taking mine apart. There is a central boss in the middle of the lower slide (that the one you have is missing) that slots into the leadscrew nut. That means that you can't simply slide the lower part off.
Incidentally, it's not a pair of angular contact bearings for the leadscrew, it's a single bearing that's got the outer race split into two rings. The bearing is pre-loaded by changing the distance between the two rings. A very interesting design and one I've not seen anywhere else. To make it more interesting, the races are metric, the balls are imperial, 5/16".
I also decided not to replace my gib. It was 180€ for a new one, so I machined the old one flat and epoxied on a piece of bronze. If anyone's interested in the process, I can post a video.
Mine was worn a similar amount and I believe that was because the previous owner used grease instead of oil.
I own an old Schaublin 102, circa 1930s, and deeply enjoyed this. Glad to see someone going to the effort of repairing something this high end seriously. Ive worked on modern servodrive versions of this lathe in watchmaking school- these crossslides are nearly unchanged inside from models over 50 years old. Hard to improve on perfection!
Please keep up the precise explanations.I may be ignorant,but not stupid and really appreciate your explicit manner of presenting complex information
Scraping small dovetails is difficult for me, and the more I see others doing it the more I figure out how to fix my technique. Thank you, Stefan!
Your customer trusted you with reconditioning their Schaublin compound slide - I think that speaks volumes about your care and attention to detail and the quality of your work.
I am impressed!
I've waited a long time to see work like this. I may have to try my hand at it one of these days. Lots of great info here. Thanks.
Thank you! I hope it helps people to figure out problems with machine parts and fix them :)
Stefan,
Nice work, solid techniques and attention to the details of getting it right. There are ways to get around this effort, but the more prudent approach is in your work. A friend of mine, a mentor too, who has many years of this work rattling around in his head simplifies it this way…. FPS, everything can simply be reduced to Flat, Parallel, Square and then the rest is easy. So simple when you look at a part, “how do I get this Flat, Parallel and Square. Thanks for showing this work.
ah that method of measuring the dovetails with a block and parallel is slick! Very nice :)
What a great series this is. I keep coming back to it
The "Old" hammer trick. Richard taught me that when I was scraping a Cast Iron 45 degree triangle similar to the one hiding behind your surface plate. Hinging and the hammer test sure save me time now that I know about them. Great video Stefan.
looks like the richard king course is kicking in! Solid german engineering! love it. danke shoen!
As expected an extremely well explained and detailed process of what's involved Stefan. And the first time I've seen that setup for checking how parallel the male dovetail is. Now that I have seen it I'd certainly agree it's an easier and likely a bit less error prone method than measuring across the pins with a micrometer. Time wise both methods are probably about the same. Detailed videos like this give me some hope of finally doing to my lathe what you did a long time ago to yours. Many thanks for taking the time and going to the effort. It's very much appreciated.
love the all the job you put into it!
the Schaublin parts looks so genuine.
we give our fractions names, meter is 1/1, decimeter 1/10, centimeter, 1/100, millimeter 1/1000, micrometer, nanometer and so on... hell the prefixes indicate the fraction or multiplier of the base value. Meanwhile imperial which has some values based on metric because there were too many inconsistencies between say the inch country to country. Metric sure is a great system, logical too
I’m glad I don’t have to work in non base 10 fractions in metric software development.
very interesting video on not just the refurb but the way to check and assess the amount of wear... 63 and still learning, thank you
Excellent work Stefan! Your customer should be very happy.
ATB, Robin
Thank you Robin - Customer got it already back and he is satisfied :)
Following you on Instagram for a while now... Just started watching your videos. They are fantastic!! I'm a hobbyist machinist/engine builder and your videos are extremely enlightening!!
Worth its time in gold! Thanks stefan.
Great Mate, wish I had a surface plate and a nice straight edge like yours. (But I'm working on it)
Cheers
All those nice pre squared parts sure do make it easier to work with. In the states especially on old machines they didn't do anything but cast most every surface that wasn't used so mapping and setting things up to fix them can really be a challenge.
Ha, the dreaded old machines with their nice courves. Schaublin has a reputation to machine even non-critical surfaces to a high degree of precision.
Surfaces that other manufacturers would just leave as a rough casting, Schaublin would flycut or surfacegrind them and leave them bare metal. Especially on the slightly newer Schaublin lathes and mills from the 70s up to today.
Not all machines built in the US have the characteristic of lots of cast surfaces. For the most part this had to do with cost issues. Schaublin builds high end machinery. As did Monarch, Hardinge and others. Note not all Hardinge or Monarchs were built to the highest quality standards. In the US the highest quality lathes were generally known as either Tool Room Lathes or Instrument Lathes (some makers would also hang the tag on lesser machines unfortunately). In terms of manual precision lathes there are a select few. Schaublin, Monarch 10EE's, some Rivett's, Hardinge HLV-H/ER's and some European brands.
Great discussion/demostration
Thank you Chuck!
Very interesting project.
I'd love to pick your brain about surface grinding if you have some time. I have always admired the quality of work you have been able to achieve with yours, and I just obtained one myself yesterday (although it isn't running yet).
Thank you . I appreciate this . Going to follow all of what is to come .
Nice job Stefan.
Stefan - when step scraping reverse what you are doing. Do 5 first, then 4 and 5, then 3-5, then 2-5, and finally 1-5. That way you don't loose your area markings.
I agree there would be less of a stair step.
I learned machining skills on a technical school built up by a Swiss team. Absolutelly everything was swiss made, from the simplest file to big machines, everything was Schaublin, Aciera, Tesa, Etalon, SIP, etc... (except the optics lab which was built by Carl Zeiss Jena)... The course took 4 years from 7am to 5pm every day and one of the machines we learned tho deal with in the first year was a Schaublin 102. In the second year we used the Schaublin 102VM and in the third year we used Schaublin 125.
Love it.. already one of the best scraping vids on youtube.. oh and I bought about 900 euro worth of stuff from Hoffman Group thanks to you because you sort of advertised it :)
Thank you! And sorry for making you buy that much tools ;)
I already saw them at about 3 trade shows and there's something about putting a colored band on an end mill that catches my eye (I saw the 2 Holex thread mills on your instagram and instantly remembered that that's the brand I've been seeing at the tradeshows). Btw I think the invoice has still been not payed (have to check with my finance guy) so you don't have to be sorry.. for now :D
i like the simple set ups
I learned a ton from this video. Excellent work. Well shot and explained and all from a guy who has English a second language? I am really going to have to step up my game. This video couldn't have been any better if it had been scripted.
Very interesting indeed, a good subject and explained very well, (although there were odd times that it went over my head). However, it was excellent.
Great video Stefan. Thanks for sharing.
Stefan, I am putting a CNC Router together, I bought some 6061 T6 Alum T-slot in a slightly used condition and need to stone one face. It is 45 x 180 and will support the X Axis bearing rail. One of the 45mm faces is a little rough. So what may be used to take nicks and burrs off of this material? A stone would become clogged. But I do have a cross ( or double) cut axe file. I have heard that a light coat of tapping or cutting oil may help reduce loading of aluminum shaving. I am only removing the smallest of chowdering,... to sneak up on it, not resurface the entire length:-)
Thank god I have one virgin edge for my Hiwin Bearing rails :-)
This is just awesome Stefan. Really good information on restoring the dove tails on a lathe by scraping. All the information on the measurements are also really useful. That is half the job, to do proper measurements before and during scraping. I have not done any scraping, but as the owner of several well used machines the need arises soon when you get into precision machining. I know my machines needs a serious improvement. However, I don't feel i should jump right into scraping my Schaublin mill as the first job. So I think the old Myford that I am not using any more could be a good candidate, after I have practiced on some machinist blocks and other items. I came across a (practically) unused Biax the other day. I read somewhere that they run around €3K new, I can have this for way less. Is it a must have you think for scraping?
For larger machines a powerscraper is nice as it speeds up work immensly, but for small stuff like this compound or even my mill I think you could get along without a powerscraper. For smaller dovetails its not helping anyway. But it shines on large surfaces :)
Thanks for watching!
my father called those chowder marks from hitting inaccurately or with something too hard "signing your work"
will amoroso 😂😂😂 That's fantastic, I'll need to remember that one.
Tony, are you outsourcing now?
I think Tony has a Schaublin mill and a Colchester student lathe.
Oh I do hope your client paid dearly for that much highly skilled work.
hey, he's doing the Tony hands thing. Beautiful lathe, BTW!
Especially liked to see the dovetail scraping...Thank you.
Most guys in the metal trades are just HAMMERERS. Plain and simple.
Very nice video. Thanks good work
excellent work as usual !
Thank you Stefan
How critical is it that I drop everything before I use it?
very. it allows you to limber up your back and fingers
Very important! Its stress releaving the parts.
Stefan Gotteswinter And transfers the stress to the operator?
Briljant! This will be done on my lathe very soon. But i have to make a new gib. Nice job for my little Aciera F3👍😀
Stefan... buddy... you're the best. 😁
This is awesome information. In the states, where can we find straight edges for bluing ways? Especially beveled edges that will fit small ways? I have a scraper and surface plate, but am struggling to find a few tools. Including the base and arm for my dial test indicator. I just don’t know the proper terminology. My searches came up empty!
Hey Stefan! :)
Since this is a customer's job I'd like to know what you (roughly) charge for something like that.. I guess there are many many hours going into this.
If you don't want to tell the world that's fine too.
Anyways, great work! I love your attention to detail and your perfectionism :D
Words to live by "never ruin another man's screw"!! (in Australia we might say... don't mow another man's grass) ;-)
excellent Stefan.
Hi there! Very nice explanation of step-scraping. Thanks! Also, how do you cut-off carbide mills? I can't find proper diamond cut-off wheel for that...
Thank you!
I cheated, the endmill shanks where wire edm cut.. ;)
But I have a resinbound diamond wheel that would work.
Very good instructions ----- thanks for sharing. Looks to be a well made Lathe
Good eyes and better hands!
don't get seasick good point
What happens to the measurement accuracy of the setup with the pins if the lower dovetail is worn? I'm referring to the setup that you are using to scrape the angled ways.
I had to take a nap about thirty minutes in but that's alright. It gives me a chance to absorb all the heavy knowledge intake. If my teachers had understood that I would've come out a genius of epic proportion.
I can't help thinking that there is an easier way to keep track with the step scraping. If you start scraping square 1, then change direction and scrape 2 & 1, then change direction and scrape 3,2 & 1 etc. This way you don't need to remark the squares and it should be impossible to lose your place. Unless of course I'm missing something :). Anyway thanks as always for sharing. I am looking forward to more.
Odd, My first thought (With ZERO experience) would have been Scrape #5, Then 5 and 4, then 5-4-3, then 5-4-3-2, then 5-1. If interrupted at the end of the 3rd pass, you'd know where to start since the squares number 2 and 1 would still be labeled...
When youre scraping Stefan, work back towards yourself. Start scraping at the furthest most area and scrape away from yourself as usual, but each row should come back towards you. The reason you do this is to avoid scraping over the chips you have just created. Just like any machining process, recutting chips is bad for tool life, and it can make a big difference for how long you go between regrinding the scraper, especially if youre running a well honed scraper. The surface finish will be a touch neater too.
Great vids though mate, this is a job Ive been contemplating with my own machine.
That's not just a repair, that's an upgrade! Going from ground to scraped surfaces...
US/Imperial standard uses the decimal system but binary fraction lengths. It would make much more sense to use base-2 or base-16 for inch dimensions.
excellent tutorial. Wondering, how much time to this point? (excluding teardown }
Without filming, only working? Maybe 7..10hours.
At 2:32 did the bench attack your foot? Mine does that from time to time. When the video ended I said v"Wait, that was only fifteen minutes, not forty minutes. This was extremely interesting. Thank you.
Very interesting, thanks. Please use gloves when touching dead tree parts....
I washed my hands thoroughly afterwards :D
Tom Q, Are you being sarcastic or do you know something I don't?
Want to buy my old car? It's really cheap, honest
We always have to look out for wood poisoning....
I like how you just posted this video as I’m starting on rebuilding Hardinge slides. Hopefully I’ll learn some new techniques.
Is your grinder to small to sidewheel it first?
Yes, slightly to small, and I am not sure if sidewheeling a dovetail is SO much fun. We do it at work with large die-sets that have a dovetailmount to the press, but our grinders there are "slightly" larger and run full flood cooleant.
But IF I had a matching dovetailcutter, I would have milled it first, that would bring me way withing 1/100mm tolerance.
Yea your right about the coolant, that’s how I run it and could see it not being fun without.
Really liked the two videos, I always pick up some new techniques watching you work.
Stefan, mind if I ship you an entire Logan lathe for rescraping from New York to Germany? Nothing could go wrong.
Just send it via a carrier-pigeon :)
Is there a Trans- oceanic Uber yet?
wHere can you find a carrier pigeon the size of a C-117?
Sir Faces at it again. ;-)
Could you have ground the majority of the flat, to get it straight level and a reference, and then scraped the extra bit, under the dovetail, in the same way you did with the unworn ridge? I just thought it would save most of the rough scraping.
Great video as usual Stefan! Fractions in metric, LOL! 1/10 isn't a *real* fraction, 9/32 is a real fraction. :)
Thank you!
:D
It is amazing how many people struggle with the concept that decimal notation is just fractions written in a different form. I remember teaching my kids when they were in school. One daughter got it the first time but the other could never quite absorb the concept. She works at the bank while the other daughter is a scientist.
Make a decimal out of Pi.
Too easy, many a ten year old would tell you 22/7 ;-))
Rope Tangler, that is a fraction. It is different than a decimal. I now more deeply understand John Ferguson's amazement.
"I have to remove a lot of material" .. 60-70 microns. Almost worth using the bandsaw?
I thought of exothermical cutting ;)
yes a new vid :)
Hi Stefan, great job ! at 25:30 i dont understand why you went from 1 to 5 ? i would have scraped from 5 to 1 ...(5 once, then 5-4, then 5-4-3, then 5-4-3-2 and finaly 5-4-3-2-1) ... unless you are an artist and like to much using your marker pen ;^)
Thanks for video and hope I don't need to go this far. I just bought a 102 and discovered that it has a chip out of the bed of about 3-4mm, where someone has dropped the screwcutting accessory head. Should I do something about the damage? Otherwise all good.
Please forgive a very ignorant comment. Isn''t is possible to mount this on your surface grinder and grind it?
If my grinder was large enough to do all setups, yes - But then it would still not be as good as scraped.
Excellent
Hi,
what kind of stone do you use after scraping? I mean the thin one.
Thanks!!
Its a medium grit knife edge india / aluminium oxide stone - I got mine from Richard King, I think he gets them from MSC or another tooling supplier in the US.
Ich hätte nie gedacht, dass man mit einfachem Handwerkzeug so genaue Arbeiten durchführen kann.
Right, 15/32 of a 16th. I'll never make sense of it and I don't know how they do.
It's easy enough, when you've lived with it your entire life. ;>) Just remember the numerator is always odd (for lowest common denominator) and the denominators are ascending powers of 2 (2 4 8 16 32 64). 1/64 of an inch = 0.397 mM. and that happens to be the wood working tolerance, when foundry pattern making.
Eli D.
so . . . woodworking tolerance is 25/64ths of a millimeter then?
You would probably have a hard time finding a scale with those units for a quick measurement, but yes, pretty close. :-)
Stefan, just for knowledge: would the last setup you showed introduce some errors ? You have to be sure the parallel is dead precise, and so the two ping must be exactly the same size. Is the paralles is not full parallel by, say, 0.005 and the pin differs by 0,005 you can have 0 ( if the error subtracts ) 0,01 ( if the errors sum ).
Am I missing something ?
one thousandth of a millimeter(mm) is a micrometer(u
m)
Correct!
Except Americans spell it wrong. It should be milimetre and micrometre. As a fringe benefit, this distinguishes the latter from the glorified G clamp used for fine measurement!
Ich möchte mir eine Drehmaschine zulegen. Worauf muss ich achten und worauf muss ich besonders achten?
I'm a little surprised that with that amount of wear that you didn't start by grinding the face of the dovetail, like you did with the slide. You'ld need a cup wheel of course and grind with the part on edge, but still...
This is very old video but do you offer this service?
what kind of stones should i buy for that purpose?
15:29 Rang it a few times... and it didn't move very much.
Did you actually measure a difference after ringing the straightedge?
I couldn't tell from the video was that compound scraped to start with?
"Relatively well made" out of the mouth of a German means more like "Maybe there is something in the world that is equally well made, but I dont think there has ever existed anything that is made better" ;D
Amazing
awsome!😁
I am looking into buying a Sajo uf-48. I need help! I can't find anything here in the US. Any suy?
3:44 - people don't like their screws screwed up :-)
what is the pen with the long neck at the end called?
Try: Deep hole marker
That one is made by Markal
Thank you,
Thanks I have been wondering how to pronounce Schaublin for years.
You call that worn? You should see the wear in my old lathe.
But then again it's not Swiss, but German made :)
where can I get a pen like the one in your video
Search pattern marker.
Tilt that small piece of iron , dress a wheel and use you surface grinder.....then scrap finish.
You scraping too hard and with a long scrap line.need to scrap long 2/3 mm max for one carriage like that