I had opportunity to document this magnificent effort from our brave team for your viewing pleasure! I didn't have super much time to polish the piece on editing table but it has it's moments thats sure :D Hope that you like it!
I didn't realize how much I was missing these workshop videos until I watched this one. I know it's a ton of work, but I know there are some of out here that really enjoy it!
My late father was an orchardist growing apples, pears, apricots, peaches & cherries in Canada's Okanagan Valley in the late 1940s ~ 1970s. He had a large pipe wrench the same size as the one you were using at 09:30, but its handle was bent ~30 degrees from routine use of a pipe extension about 3 m long just as you did. Buried 3" [76 mm] steel irrigation water pipe vertical risers can be difficult to disassemble when rusty. He & my uncle used heavy chain & a Ford 9N orchard tractor to pull on the pipe that extended the wrench handle. Great fun to watch as a six-year-old boy. Thanks for the video!
As a millwright, I've run across many different situations where a bolt and nut, or bolt inside a housing gets seized. I've always had better luck heating up the nut to make it expand, or heating up the housing for the same reason. If Locktite is involved, it will melt and break free. The bolt will come loose with much less effort once you allow everything to cool off. If it still gives trouble, just heat up the nut or housing again as quickly as possible, then try and get the bolt loose before the heat transfers to it and makes it expand too much. 95 percent of the time this has worked for me much better. Heating up just the head of the bolt is just asking for trouble
I was thinking the same thing. Heating _expands_ metals, so heating the bolts helped to give them the initial movement to break loose, but it also made them want to grip harder.
Thinking that Heating up the Head of the Cap Head Bolt allowed the transition of heat into the bolt which grew, this allowed slight movement as the head which would have been under tension against the flange of that cap...there by that thermal expansion created less tension, allowing the combination of the Stilson plus a piece of box section and Air Hammer/ Driver to do its work....Obviously IF one had an Hydraulic Torque multiplier those suckers would have walk off... Heat may have changed the heat treat treatment already given to those set screws giving an annealing or normalising effect to same... as one would presume, some degree of Tempering or harding by quenching could have been carried out to same to give same the correct 'Grading ' ...
I don't think he got them hot enough, i always have the best luck heating the entire head of the bolt till its red, then work on something else, and come back after it cools down. particularly on steam turbine nozzle blocks I would have put the torch in the head where the allen socket goes untill in was entirely red not just one side the size of that cylinder would prevent you from really heating the whole thing like that, and its a lot easier to replace a bunch of bolts than a cylinder also should have got a hytorc and some kroil
I crack up and laugh every time that he uses the phrase "That's not optimal" - it is always preceded by the absolute worst outcome that could possibly happen, however he delivers it in such a dry mater of fact way that it always catches me off guard. Loved the video - great content.
@@furionese Phillips head are the absolute worst, guaranteed to cam out. That's where an impact driver becomes indispensable. (I don't mean the type of air impact wrench they used here, I mean the hand-held tool where you belt the end of it with a heavy hammer and an internal spiral twists the bit at the same time the impact forces it into the Philips slot). It's also very satisfying that the more you belt the &^%*^%$% out of the sod, the better it works. And some Philips screws that have taken perverse delight in deforming and munging their slots are sufficiently intimidated by it that they come out like a dream as soon as you tap the driver.
Really appreciate these types of videos. This is what we like to see, the working of your shop and crew. Many times I find that I understand what is being said even though I only speak english. I appreciate seeing families working together. Thank You.
Sometimes i have this same situation,and ive had some success by heating the bolt, like you said, the bolt will expand and break the rust loose. So if you heat it extremely hot,then let the bolt cool down, it breaks free. But it does take a long time to get that much mass hot and then cooled back down. I'm super grateful to see you film this, so people that don't deal with this kind of thing, get to see how large industrial problems, are solved, and the effort that goes into keeping the world moving!
The was heating the wrong end. They needed to be heating the Part that contained the threads. If you heat the area that has the threaded hole, the hole gets bigger. If you can apply dry ice to the bolt head at the same time the bolt will shrink.
@@garymurt9112 when heating to expand the hole can't be done, hearing to expand the bolt is the alternative! When you expand the bolt (which he eludes to) it breaks whatever corrosion is keeping it from losening. Believe me, I've had to use both techniques. When you can't apply heat to the internal threads of a hole, because of warpage, or distorting the threaded part, heating to expand the bolt is the only other alternative!
@@garymurt9112if you heat the casing you heat the bolt too, it's like one part, doesn't matter if you cool the bolt head, the cooling does not really "penetrate" into the bolt. And if it does it cools the casing too again.
I'm a forklift technician from Chicago and this repair is something I do fairly often but not on a cylinder as large as this. It blows my mind that it is the same concept with smaller cylinders to bigger they still have same components. Seals, o-rings wiper seals etc.... Great job gentleman...Cheers from Chicago
If you ever have to do this again it might be worth taking out every other bolt so that you're keeping some pressure evenly clamped around the ring. When you remove them all in a line you could be adding a pinch stress to some of the other fasteners.
I LOVE Super Heavy Duty industrial tools and equipment. It's fascinating how much power you need sometimes to just break away a bolt, it's just amazing!
Thank you for doing this I really enjoy watching these videos when i was younger i use to watch stuff like How it's made and building documentaries this takes me back really appreciate this.
"and know what we are doing, expect when the broom is on fire" Relateable :) Good effort folks, Cutting Edge Austrailia just did something similar - those cylinders are hard work.
It's been awhile since I watched your videos and I can definitely say this one is bringing me back I love it and thank you for all the hard work you do
VEO ESTE VIDEO Y COMO QUISIERA ESTAR AHI. MI CUERPO Y MI CEREBRO ME LO PIDEN. LA MANTENCION INDUSTRIAL ES TODA UNA AVENTURA. TODO UN DESAFIO. Y SIEMPRE HAY UNA HISTORIA QUE CONTAR DESPUES DE CADA REPARACION. Y HAY HOMBRES COMO YO QUE NO QUIEREN ESTAR SIMPLEMENTE MIRANDO COMO ALGUIEN SE SACRIFICA POR SALIR ADELANTE. GRAN VIDEO.
Wow, that was super interesting to watch, thank you for filming the process. At least to me it seemed like you had all the right tools you could wish for this job, but the bolts still only barely wanted to come out. This really shows nicely how parts like a hydraulic cylinder become incredibly more difficult to work with the larger they get.
It takes me back to old days working with my dad on Lokomo and Timberjack machines, doing all this kind of stuff with rams and pumps and motors. Nice video.
For anyone wondering about torque: when they had the pipe on there, 1lb/ft is linear. Two guys at 5ft is probably around 1000ft/lbs. Those bolts were tiiiiiight.
Thansk for sharing this. this is stufff htat regular people do not get to EVER see, and it's really interesting to see the machine itself, but also how you deal with the problems. regular people like me that only do littel projects once is a while have no idea how to solve some of those issues,...
The best thing is to heat the area around the bolts to expand the material so the bolts can come out easier. And also hitting the housing with the hammer while your impacting the bolts can help too!
It makes sense from a thermal expansion perspective but the bolts are easy to replace while the housing is more or less custom made so you'd like to avoid damages to the housing. I wouldn't be surprised it the bolts were secured with Loctite Red or something similar extremely strong. Heating the bolts would cause it to break down and allow the bolts to be released. Recommendation for disassembly of LOCTITE 271 is to heat the material to about 250 degrees C and unscrew while hot. Just because the head is red hot doesn't mean that the thread is at the same temperature, so from that perspective this was probably the best way to go.
@@ehsnilsnope the housing is 10x stronger than the bolt is. I guarantee breaking a bolt off in there or even just stripping it off in there is worse than whacking the housing with a hammer.
I worked 35 years in auto shops and stuff on a much smaller scale i did this kind of stuff too, super long pry bar pipes, hammers, acetylene torchs, heavy duty pullers, nut crackers, super big impacts, a few licks clockwise, then lean in on it until the air compressor can’t keep up. I love working men, we helped and respected each other. You could really no get along with a guy but when it came to a team action everyone got in on it.
Brought back good memories of many years working in a British Steel Hot rolling section mill and these impact guns and 36" stillson's as our toys every shift...
Next time you guys have a really stuck bolt and are using heat one way I found that works extremely well is to heat the bolt let it cool and repeat the process again and on the 3rd time let it cool slightly but still good and warm. What this does is helps the heat to penetrate the steel deeper than just one heat cycle. This works well on extremely rusted bolts also. Also helps to save the drive surfaces from becoming marred or misshapen.
As noted before if not a loctite type situation where heat needed to loosen that grip , but if corrosion only a few cycles as you say of heat & then a cold dousing immediate do loosen the grip too
Thanks Laurie. Brilliant bit of machinery that I often wondered about and many others have gone over the subject in conversation. None of us had a great deal of information about the guts of these large rams. And your co-host also "hello"
Impact tends to jolt the thread interface enough to loosen it, this is why impact drivers work so well in the first place :P But combining high constant torque and impact (and heat) is usually the solution when you don't want to turn the bolt into a puddle (or dust).
We had the exact same size cylinders in our shop 2 years ago and the same problem. The bolts were almost impossible to get out. We had to use a 4 meter pipe on the allen wrench and lift it with the crane. 2 cylinders, 2 days. Not much fun in the summer heat. But we got it done. Cheers from Canada.
My first thought was that heating bolts would make them thicker and tighter, but it made sense when you said it made them longer, interesting. The smoke looked very cinematic too 10:46
This shows that most people don't understand how a bolt works (why it "holds" things)! Scandal! Presented method is very basic: heating up the head elongates the bolt, releasing some tension. Good method to save the expensive parts, housings, castings, cylinders, whatever. Cheaper to replace the bolts than fix the cracked, annealed, overheated, warped parts. Plus pounding it with hammer like a monkey.
Lol this reminds me of working on the US Pacific Naval fleet in the late 2000's, I was trying to remove some 2" diameter bolts from a giant mooring line stanchion on the USS Shoup (a destroyer) and ended up having to take a rosebud torch to it on top of using a 15 foot long piece of steel scaffolding tube as a cheater bar to break it loose, my 350lb Bulgarian coworker and I had to put all our weight and strength into that bar to crack it loose. We busted a 1" ratchet extension and the handle on a 1" Proto ratchet wrench in the process, I've never seen a bolt so seized up in my life lol. The rosebud was what finally did the trick, heat is the best thing for a seized bolt.
Love the job shop machinist stuff. Most people have no idea what it takes to keep industry running. Those are going to be some expensive seals. Getting those giant cap screw loose is going to cost the customer quite a bit.
New seals will cost little compared with a new barrel if they need one. If the barrel is chromed and may not be able to be fixed. Any gouges can’t just be honed out either as the internal diameter would be out of specification.
Always good to see a shop video. Also get to see Temu as well. Been watching videos of people in other countries like Pakistan where they are working with large parts like this and repairing them, only they are doing it in dirt floor shops in their bare feet or with sandals on. Maybe you should employ the little woman to film while you work on this. Then you can work in the shop and we get to see it.
As a product technician of the assembly of hydraulic cylinders I am actually surprised your initial idea was not to heat the bolts up before disassembly. Usually there are hefty amounts of loctite on those threads because you ideally do not want them to loosen once the cylinder is in use. From what I can see, they also did not have a set screw or additional mechanical locking design. Thereby, loctite being even more important and the perhaps only way to disassemble those bolts would be to heat the glue.
You also don't heat the bolt. Metal expands under heat. You want to heat AROUND the bolt not the bolt itself. The fact that he doesn't know this simple fact is both surprising and sad.
@@x808drifterI think you didn't get it. Bolt is under tension, if you heat it, it expands and reduces its tension. The longitudinal expansion is much higher than the expansion in diameter. Also, there is always some play between inner and outer threads, so as long as there is no rust heating the surrounding is going to make it worse. Most bolts, if not secured by loctite or rust, come right off with bare hands after you manage to snap or drill the head off, in example when the heads are rounded. Its mostly about pretension.
Dear "technician", you need more experience. Loctite alone will not cause so much trouble. These were old seized bolts (installed dry and rusted). Heating up the part (housing, casting, whatever) is always risky (cracks, warping etc.). It's way safer to heat up the head, to elongate the bolt and release some tension (this is how a bolt works). Heating up the threads area will not help much in this example (plus mentioned risks). Bolts are way cheaper than cylinder like that.
Doing a star pattern has nothing to do with the tension of the bolts themselv. You do this if you have a fragile or very wide housing with pretension from like a gasket so you don't warp the part, or if you pull in a tight slip or press fit so it dose not pull crooked. In this Szenario, the barrel is very sturdy and ther is no prelode betwen the parts because they are butted against each other and sealed with O- rings. The pretension in the bolts are just so they don't first stretch when you put 400bar of pressure betwen those parts and ruin your day. 😅
If there is a pre-load in parts like covers, manifolds, flanges, the tension will mostly release when you undoing the bolts. Car wheel is the same - when the bolt is hard, try next one and so on (eventually they will all release).
@@GrandePunto8V i think u got it back asswards bud. if theres a tight bolt, removing the bolt right next to it will make it even tighter. its like the spokes on a bicycle wheel. you break one spoke, what do you think happens to the spokes right next to it? they end up with higher tension
It's not the bolts that need heat; they'll just expand and get tighter. If you can't heat the whole flange, a better idea it to heat the bolts and cool very quickly. The shock can loosen them and the heat can burn off any locking agent. Another thing is, once you have removed a bolt, clean it and grease it and put it back. Keeping the flange evenly tightened can reduce the pressure on un-loosened bolts. Once they're all loose, undo evenly and remove.
I doubt you've been taking any stuck bolts out. I know in theory you should heat the exterior threads, but in reality just heating the bolt will do, after it heats up just wait for the temperature to settle a bit.
That's getting boring! Another batch of lames. Everything wrong. Heating up the bolt will elongate it, releasing the tension (that's how a bolt works, holds things). The goal here was NOT to upset the piston, housing, flange, whatever, by heating up "everything" and pound with sledge hammer like a monkey. Bolts are cheaper to replace.
That insanely tight person got really happy with the impact gun. I work with cars trucks all day sometimes people put bolts on so tight I have to change the part. Like a simple oil drain bolt people use a 1500FPT impact gun. Its takes longer for a simple oil change. But awesome video guy satisfying watching you get all the bolts out
It's best to actuate the impacts in short bursts. Impacts offer the most breaking torque in the first 3 seconds. Continual driving after that has a significant drop off of breakaway torque.
That is due to the pressure drop in the line, if you have big lines that is not much of an issue. I have a 15mm hose and a 1" ring pipe and the bigger couplers in my shop, if you have a such a stuck bolts you can just hold on to it and stip threads if needed. If I put the wimpy 8mm spiral hose in between that drop of is very noticeable and you just see movement in the beginning like you described.
@@martin09091989 While the available air pressure is one of the factors causing break away torque drop. This issue is still the case even for electric impacts like the monster Milwaukee they tried to use. There is a lot of information on how impacts behave on the Torque Test Channel if anyone is comparing or thinking of buying an impact.
I appreciate this because there's a lot of good information on some things like dealing with stuck parts, it's nice to see that it came about without having to cut or burn the bolts out.
I do work like this all the time and appreciate you guy’s! your fun to watch not a lot of guy’s interested in this type of work hopefully videos like yours will inspire the younger crowd …
Yeah, they "inspire" army of retards who comment on how the video technique was "wrong". The "lames and squares" give "advice" to Pros - to just heat up the whole thing and cool the bolt and BS like that... While heating the bolt elongated it and released most tension (video is 100% correct and practical).
Using the impact gun and a pipe wrench at the same time was a good idea, maximum torque! You both hanging on that pipe reminded me of that time when I was trying to bar over a locomotive diesel engine that hadn't ran for maybe 40 years, and that after a diesel soak for 3 weeks. I was literally deadlifting on that bar which was about the same length as yours and just managed to bend the pipe which was 60mm dia. and 5mm wall thickness, that engine didn't move at all. Later we disassembled it one piston at a time with a lot of effort.
Yes, I once tried with a 1600cc car engine that had sat for a while. Pistons were well stuck in the bores. There was absolutely no way it was going to turn over. So after taking it apart and lifting the crankshaft out, the pistons drove out individually with a hammer and wood block relatively easily.
I'll be honest with you - I've already seen dozens of explosion videos, and while they are always very interesting, this video is not just an everyday stuff and I'd like to see more of it :)
Torque pretension plus impact works in most cases wonders. Even without a impact gun. If a Bolt is hard to loosen, give it as much pretension as you can give it and then hit the wrench with a hammer in the same direction. Has worked every time so far.
So many years of excellent service the cylinder has given. I would like to see the rebuilding of the cylinder 5 million but if you don't have time, I understand.
I had a stuck bolt on my MTB that required the same techniques. Hammering the casing helped the most, also ice cooling of the bolt. It ended up take three days to remove
The work pays off! Pls do more of these exotic Videos because they are somewhat relaxing and have a really good contrast to your usual content. And dont even try to be better then CCE Australia.
Nothing "exotic" about it. This is how industrial stuff looks like. Most of the time (50% man-hours) you clean something and fight stuck bolts like that (20-30% time). Actual job (repair, replace, adjustment) is the remaining time (percentage) left.
ild recemend with something this tight and this many bolts, get them all started a half turn first. maybe even 1/4 turn, then start fully removing, the clamping force of all that redistributes as they are removed and if they were tough from the start the last ones will be even tougher since that force is only on a few by the end, by your last on is kinda prys and twists on the bolt in terms of forces applied to the bolt potentially making it harder to break loose
Love this video. Old bolt adage; if it doesn't go in, take it out. if it doesn't come out put it in. So the heat expands the bolt which we hope breaks it loose from the threads allowing it to be withdrawn. The best way to utilize this is to let the bolt cool once heated. When the bolt was installed to torque the threads were stretched in a clockwise trailing direction. If there was loctite or never-seize on the bolt this helped by allowing the torque to be equalized across the entire thread face which then locked it into a continuous anti rotational barb once it reached torque. So conclusion would be that heat first, cooling second, and then some more forward torque should help to break it free allowing it to be withdrawn. I'm not saying it would've for certain, but i'm just saying that i didn't see it tried. The only other thing that may have helped is to skip around from bolt to equalize the pressure on the flange. Sometimes when you take a couple bolts out it makes the adjacent bolt tighter. Mostly what I saw was some hard working guys in a shop using everything at their disposal like shops everywhere just getting it done. I would watch more videos like this!
Stop giving advice to the Pros. They know all tricks. As for "taking adjacent bolts making things tighter" - often it's the opposite! If you can't remove a particular bolt, just keep removing other ones and eventually all will be easier to undo. Especially covers/flanges behave like that.
@@GrandePunto8V Lol, blazen. I was only giving reminders from one old pro to other old pros on the things that i did not see them try. Heavy shit is a whole different world, we're not messing around with cars here. If the bolts weren't torqued in sequence when it was last assembled its more likely to release uneven stress when it's disassembled. cheers.
I feel like I should start recording what I do at work I would have in my opinion 6 much more stuck nuts. Like it's 2.5in threads, it required a 1in breaker bar, witg a 15ft cheater bar, heat and a fork lift ramming the end twice to break each nut enough to then use our 1in impact to remove. It's for a large gearbox had those 6 bolts around the output shaft both ends. Then 12 more like 1 1/4 bolts for the next 3 shafts. Every hit with the fork lift required us to pick the box up with the crane and reset up for the next heat and beat. Again this gearbox weighed maybe 8-10ish tons. We'd rotate it like 35 degrees each hit.
I'll also add im aware they are trying to not blow it up, so no pressure vessels for what I'm stating. but after you have heat the bolt up, any loctite or non oxide thing holding you up, if you have a way to chill what your trying to remove. Do that, then start heating up the opposite side of the frame 9r whatever and with a temp gun watch the heat creep up. A soft flame. Don't get red hot or blue. When you start to see like 120 degrees starting to creep like 4 er 5 inches from what you think is the deepest part of the bolt hole. Start to attempt to remove as the heat sinks in you have a window where the frame hasn't transfered to the bolt and Is larger. So if it's like a rust crystal it will give enough room to break them up when you drive the bolt. Be sure to to retighten if you keep getting snags to move and break particles in tge threads. Again not useful for pressure vessels.
I am from Milwaukee, great to see home town represented. And seriously love the channel. By the way, yours must be the most Finnish accent I've even heard. 😮 I'm impressed. All good things.
In USA we call it a “cheater bar” when you use a pipe like that. I broke a big wrench doing that once. It was supercool because i weigh 60 kg only. I felt like superman ( but it was a cheap Chinese wrench). i love your videos Frank (Virginia)
I really enjoyed this video. I know that you use your press for more than just smashing things. Myself, I like to see the things that the machine is made for.
I fully expected you to use the hydraulic press at some point in that process, especially when that massive bar came out! Good that you got the job done without resorting to that though.
I loved this video! Don't be afraid to do more of these sort of behind-the-scenes of behind the Press of in the shop ugh the Press Channel. These are good
Nice, great to see also the "normal" work in your shop when you're not friction welding hammers or making tools for the press to squeeze playdough 😀 This cylinder seems to be a real sucker. Even better to see that you still conquered it.
Great job! I finally saw some advantage using allen screws over the hex head ones, with this i mean you were able to provide torque from the gun and the pipe wrench at the same time, i'm not a fan at all of allen screws, i only use them if they have to fit in some cavity/hole, or some other reason that forces me to use them.
They're better in my experience for things that need to be opened and closed because you're far less likely to strip them than using hex heads. I might be slightly biased because I get them for free and during the course of my many restoration projects I've had to deal with so many rounded off hex head bolts I'm sick of them. Having said that you can't cut a notch in them and use that with a flat blade to remove a stripped bolt as easily as you can with a hex head. Torx bolts are even better but you really need decent quality bits to use on both allen and torx fasteners Once you get down to m5 or lower. Also they are good for confined spaces and if you're really lazy you can just cut old allen keys to use as driver bits in a chucked drill
I had opportunity to document this magnificent effort from our brave team for your viewing pleasure! I didn't have super much time to polish the piece on editing table but it has it's moments thats sure :D Hope that you like it!
Lisää vaan! 👍
In USA we commonly call that a "Pallet Jack" or sometimes a "Pallet Truck".
Im super curious about the seal replacement on something this size.
Looks like a suitable piston for the clink cooler at my workplace.
@@WoodworkerDonin Finland we call them "Rocla" after the biggest brand.
I didn't realize how much I was missing these workshop videos until I watched this one. I know it's a ton of work, but I know there are some of out here that really enjoy it!
About three tons in this case.
Me too
I can recommend you the Cutting Edge Engineering channel where guy does such repairs all the time with nice australian accent :)
@@surikatgawanted to say the same lol
@@surikatga Yeah.. that's what we need. More of you clowns wandering around channels where work and knowledge exist.
Nothing like watching people doing honest work 😅
To be honest, I also like watching some people doing dishonest work.
what we need more in society!
It is hard work watching someone has to work so hard....
My late father was an orchardist growing apples, pears, apricots, peaches & cherries in Canada's Okanagan Valley in the late 1940s ~ 1970s. He had a large pipe wrench the same size as the one you were using at 09:30, but its handle was bent ~30 degrees from routine use of a pipe extension about 3 m long just as you did. Buried 3" [76 mm] steel irrigation water pipe vertical risers can be difficult to disassemble when rusty. He & my uncle used heavy chain & a Ford 9N orchard tractor to pull on the pipe that extended the wrench handle. Great fun to watch as a six-year-old boy. Thanks for the video!
“Something to always think about when heating things that have oil in them: can it explode, and how bad is it going it be?” 😆 thanks Lauri
Yeah, I was thinking the same: "So... you are saying that some explosions would be acceptable?"
As a millwright, I've run across many different situations where a bolt and nut, or bolt inside a housing gets seized. I've always had better luck heating up the nut to make it expand, or heating up the housing for the same reason. If Locktite is involved, it will melt and break free. The bolt will come loose with much less effort once you allow everything to cool off. If it still gives trouble, just heat up the nut or housing again as quickly as possible, then try and get the bolt loose before the heat transfers to it and makes it expand too much. 95 percent of the time this has worked for me much better. Heating up just the head of the bolt is just asking for trouble
I was thinking the same thing. Heating _expands_ metals, so heating the bolts helped to give them the initial movement to break loose, but it also made them want to grip harder.
I have been dealing with many similar situations, and I agree completely.
Thinking that Heating up the Head of the Cap Head Bolt allowed the transition of heat into the bolt which grew, this allowed slight movement as the head which would have been under tension against the flange of that cap...there by that thermal expansion created less tension, allowing the combination of the Stilson plus a piece of box section and Air Hammer/ Driver to do its work....Obviously IF one had an Hydraulic Torque multiplier those suckers would have walk off... Heat may have changed the heat treat treatment already given to those set screws giving an annealing or normalising effect to same... as one would presume, some degree of Tempering or harding by quenching could have been carried out to same to give same the correct 'Grading ' ...
I don't think he got them hot enough, i always have the best luck heating the entire head of the bolt till its red, then work on something else, and come back after it cools down. particularly on steam turbine nozzle blocks
I would have put the torch in the head where the allen socket goes untill in was entirely red not just one side
the size of that cylinder would prevent you from really heating the whole thing like that, and its a lot easier to replace a bunch of bolts than a cylinder
also should have got a hytorc and some kroil
Completely right, shanom
No polishing of the video is required, we love the content just like this. Please continue these whenever you want. Kiitos!
I crack up and laugh every time that he uses the phrase "That's not optimal" - it is always preceded by the absolute worst outcome that could possibly happen, however he delivers it in such a dry mater of fact way that it always catches me off guard. Loved the video - great content.
common finnish fatalism...
Well, one's head being clean off is definitely not optimal.
@@VoltisArt That is very true.
The bolts ARE the stars of the video. Pretty astounding
Wow the pipe and impact at the same time was completely brilliant.. You are a genius.
I gasped when I saw that, definitely adding that to my arsenal of tricks
@@furionesethese are just normal hex, pipe wrench don't need any flats to work
@@furionese Phillips head are the absolute worst, guaranteed to cam out. That's where an impact driver becomes indispensable. (I don't mean the type of air impact wrench they used here, I mean the hand-held tool where you belt the end of it with a heavy hammer and an internal spiral twists the bit at the same time the impact forces it into the Philips slot). It's also very satisfying that the more you belt the &^%*^%$% out of the sod, the better it works. And some Philips screws that have taken perverse delight in deforming and munging their slots are sufficiently intimidated by it that they come out like a dream as soon as you tap the driver.
Cheater bar with a helper hammering the bolt head is a perfect recipe for stubborn lug bolts so makes sense the combination worked here too
They should buy a hy-torque, i love them.
That socket was the real MVP! Nice video.
Really appreciate these types of videos. This is what we like to see, the working of your shop and crew. Many times I find that I understand what is being said even though I only speak english. I appreciate seeing families working together. Thank You.
Sometimes i have this same situation,and ive had some success by heating the bolt, like you said, the bolt will expand and break the rust loose. So if you heat it extremely hot,then let the bolt cool down, it breaks free. But it does take a long time to get that much mass hot and then cooled back down.
I'm super grateful to see you film this, so people that don't deal with this kind of thing, get to see how large industrial problems, are solved, and the effort that goes into keeping the world moving!
The cooling down is a important part of getting it loose
The was heating the wrong end. They needed to be heating the Part that contained the threads. If you heat the area that has the threaded hole, the hole gets bigger. If you can apply dry ice to the bolt head at the same time the bolt will shrink.
@@garymurt9112 when heating to expand the hole can't be done, hearing to expand the bolt is the alternative! When you expand the bolt (which he eludes to) it breaks whatever corrosion is keeping it from losening. Believe me, I've had to use both techniques. When you can't apply heat to the internal threads of a hole, because of warpage, or distorting the threaded part, heating to expand the bolt is the only other alternative!
@indivisible885 they could of easily heated the area where the threads are.
@@garymurt9112if you heat the casing you heat the bolt too, it's like one part, doesn't matter if you cool the bolt head, the cooling does not really "penetrate" into the bolt. And if it does it cools the casing too again.
I'm a forklift technician from Chicago and this repair is something I do fairly often but not on a cylinder as large as this. It blows my mind that it is the same concept with smaller cylinders to bigger they still have same components. Seals, o-rings wiper seals etc.... Great job gentleman...Cheers from Chicago
If you ever have to do this again it might be worth taking out every other bolt so that you're keeping some pressure evenly clamped around the ring. When you remove them all in a line you could be adding a pinch stress to some of the other fasteners.
I LOVE Super Heavy Duty industrial tools and equipment. It's fascinating how much power you need sometimes to just break away a bolt, it's just amazing!
Thank you for doing this I really enjoy watching these videos when i was younger i use to watch stuff like How it's made and building documentaries this takes me back really
appreciate this.
"and know what we are doing, expect when the broom is on fire"
Relateable :)
Good effort folks, Cutting Edge Austrailia just did something similar - those cylinders are hard work.
It's been awhile since I watched your videos and I can definitely say this one is bringing me back I love it and thank you for all the hard work you do
VEO ESTE VIDEO Y COMO QUISIERA ESTAR AHI. MI CUERPO Y MI CEREBRO ME LO PIDEN. LA MANTENCION INDUSTRIAL ES TODA UNA AVENTURA. TODO UN DESAFIO. Y SIEMPRE HAY UNA HISTORIA QUE CONTAR DESPUES DE CADA REPARACION. Y HAY HOMBRES COMO YO QUE NO QUIEREN ESTAR SIMPLEMENTE MIRANDO COMO ALGUIEN SE SACRIFICA POR SALIR ADELANTE. GRAN VIDEO.
Wow, that was super interesting to watch, thank you for filming the process. At least to me it seemed like you had all the right tools you could wish for this job, but the bolts still only barely wanted to come out. This really shows nicely how parts like a hydraulic cylinder become incredibly more difficult to work with the larger they get.
Timo: "Hey Lauri, have you seen my 5,000,000 mm Cheater Bar?"
If you have a big enough lever, something's gotta give.
Imagine trying for hours and then discovering they're left-hand thread.
IVE BEEN THERE...!!!! I cant remember what it was on now.
It takes me back to old days working with my dad on Lokomo and Timberjack machines, doing all this kind of stuff with rams and pumps and motors. Nice video.
Very interesting job for sure! Dealing with such big pieces of steel that have been bolted together probably for years and years. Not an easy job.
As an x-machine shop employee, I love to watch "How To" videos of machine shops in action, solving difficult problems with large machines.
THIS was cool as hell to watch. I learned a thing or two for when I need to remove some larger bolts.
I love the real work videos. Cutting Edge Engineering is a great example of how to cover big work in a shop.
For anyone wondering about torque: when they had the pipe on there, 1lb/ft is linear. Two guys at 5ft is probably around 1000ft/lbs. Those bolts were tiiiiiight.
Thansk for sharing this. this is stufff htat regular people do not get to EVER see, and it's really interesting to see the machine itself, but also how you deal with the problems. regular people like me that only do littel projects once is a while have no idea how to solve some of those issues,...
The best thing is to heat the area around the bolts to expand the material so the bolts can come out easier. And also hitting the housing with the hammer while your impacting the bolts can help too!
I also would like to add giving the head of the fastener a good whack towards the threads with heat works very well
They are extremely experienced machinists that regularly work on large equipment… I am 100% sure they know both of those things.
It makes sense from a thermal expansion perspective but the bolts are easy to replace while the housing is more or less custom made so you'd like to avoid damages to the housing.
I wouldn't be surprised it the bolts were secured with Loctite Red or something similar extremely strong. Heating the bolts would cause it to break down and allow the bolts to be released.
Recommendation for disassembly of LOCTITE 271 is to heat the material to about 250 degrees C and unscrew while hot. Just because the head is red hot doesn't mean that the thread is at the same temperature, so from that perspective this was probably the best way to go.
@@ehsnilsnope the housing is 10x stronger than the bolt is. I guarantee breaking a bolt off in there or even just stripping it off in there is worse than whacking the housing with a hammer.
@@DMSparky people learn new things every day.
Those are the reasons why we all like Timo, he casually sets the broom on fire ... :D
Love seeing some more work from the workshop
It's nice to watch hard work on a Sunday morning from the sofa at home, with a warm cup of coffee in hand.
Brilliant video Lauri. More of these, please!!
I worked 35 years in auto shops and stuff on a much smaller scale i did this kind of stuff too, super long pry bar pipes, hammers, acetylene torchs, heavy duty pullers, nut crackers, super big impacts, a few licks clockwise, then lean in on it until the air compressor can’t keep up. I love working men, we helped and respected each other. You could really no get along with a guy but when it came to a team action everyone got in on it.
Accidently set the broom on fire 😂
It's a miracle that only the broom was on fire with time swinging that torch :D
This really burns the broom!
Brought back good memories of many years working in a British Steel Hot rolling section mill and these impact guns and 36" stillson's as our toys every shift...
Next time you guys have a really stuck bolt and are using heat one way I found that works extremely well is to heat the bolt let it cool and repeat the process again and on the 3rd time let it cool slightly but still good and warm. What this does is helps the heat to penetrate the steel deeper than just one heat cycle. This works well on extremely rusted bolts also. Also helps to save the drive surfaces from becoming marred or misshapen.
As noted before if not a loctite type situation where heat needed to loosen that grip , but if corrosion only a few cycles as you say of heat & then a cold dousing immediate do loosen the grip too
Thanks Laurie. Brilliant bit of machinery that I often wondered about and many others have gone over the subject in conversation. None of us had a great deal of information about the guts of these large rams. And your co-host also "hello"
Impact tends to jolt the thread interface enough to loosen it, this is why impact drivers work so well in the first place :P
But combining high constant torque and impact (and heat) is usually the solution when you don't want to turn the bolt into a puddle (or dust).
We had the exact same size cylinders in our shop 2 years ago and the same problem. The bolts were almost impossible to get out. We had to use a 4 meter pipe on the allen wrench and lift it with the crane. 2 cylinders, 2 days.
Not much fun in the summer heat. But we got it done. Cheers from Canada.
More vids like this would be amazing! Sucks that they are so time consuming :(
Im glad you filmed this. Bring us more shop videos from time to time.
My first thought was that heating bolts would make them thicker and tighter, but it made sense when you said it made them longer, interesting. The smoke looked very cinematic too 10:46
This shows that most people don't understand how a bolt works (why it "holds" things)! Scandal!
Presented method is very basic: heating up the head elongates the bolt, releasing some tension.
Good method to save the expensive parts, housings, castings, cylinders, whatever.
Cheaper to replace the bolts than fix the cracked, annealed, overheated, warped parts. Plus pounding it with hammer like a monkey.
Cutting Edge Engineering. Go!
"100L of oil on the workshop floor and that not optimal" Quite the talent for understatement
As he said it turned out to be about 40L and only a couple of litres on the floor.
Lol this reminds me of working on the US Pacific Naval fleet in the late 2000's, I was trying to remove some 2" diameter bolts from a giant mooring line stanchion on the USS Shoup (a destroyer) and ended up having to take a rosebud torch to it on top of using a 15 foot long piece of steel scaffolding tube as a cheater bar to break it loose, my 350lb Bulgarian coworker and I had to put all our weight and strength into that bar to crack it loose. We busted a 1" ratchet extension and the handle on a 1" Proto ratchet wrench in the process, I've never seen a bolt so seized up in my life lol. The rosebud was what finally did the trick, heat is the best thing for a seized bolt.
Love the job shop machinist stuff. Most people have no idea what it takes to keep industry running. Those are going to be some expensive seals. Getting those giant cap screw loose is going to cost the customer quite a bit.
New seals will cost little compared with a new barrel if they need one. If the barrel is chromed and may not be able to be fixed. Any gouges can’t just be honed out either as the internal diameter would be out of specification.
Always good to see a shop video. Also get to see Temu as well. Been watching videos of people in other countries like Pakistan where they are working with large parts like this and repairing them, only they are doing it in dirt floor shops in their bare feet or with sandals on. Maybe you should employ the little woman to film while you work on this. Then you can work in the shop and we get to see it.
As a product technician of the assembly of hydraulic cylinders I am actually surprised your initial idea was not to heat the bolts up before disassembly. Usually there are hefty amounts of loctite on those threads because you ideally do not want them to loosen once the cylinder is in use. From what I can see, they also did not have a set screw or additional mechanical locking design. Thereby, loctite being even more important and the perhaps only way to disassemble those bolts would be to heat the glue.
You also don't heat the bolt. Metal expands under heat. You want to heat AROUND the bolt not the bolt itself. The fact that he doesn't know this simple fact is both surprising and sad.
@@x808drifterI think you didn't get it. Bolt is under tension, if you heat it, it expands and reduces its tension. The longitudinal expansion is much higher than the expansion in diameter. Also, there is always some play between inner and outer threads, so as long as there is no rust heating the surrounding is going to make it worse.
Most bolts, if not secured by loctite or rust, come right off with bare hands after you manage to snap or drill the head off, in example when the heads are rounded. Its mostly about pretension.
@@x808drifter you heat the bolt. bolts are easy to replace, cylinders like that are not.
Dear "technician", you need more experience. Loctite alone will not cause so much trouble. These were old seized bolts (installed dry and rusted). Heating up the part (housing, casting, whatever) is always risky (cracks, warping etc.). It's way safer to heat up the head, to elongate the bolt and release some tension (this is how a bolt works). Heating up the threads area will not help much in this example (plus mentioned risks). Bolts are way cheaper than cylinder like that.
3:30 Archimedes would be proud of that super long pipe.
Isn't it recommended to remove bolts in a star formation not circle? It may have increased the tension as one side opened and the other is stuck.
Doing a star pattern has nothing to do with the tension of the bolts themselv.
You do this if you have a fragile or very wide housing with pretension from like a gasket so you don't warp the part, or if you pull in a tight slip or press fit so it dose not pull crooked.
In this Szenario, the barrel is very sturdy and ther is no prelode betwen the parts because they are butted against each other and sealed with O- rings. The pretension in the bolts are just so they don't first stretch when you put 400bar of pressure betwen those parts and ruin your day. 😅
If there is a pre-load in parts like covers, manifolds, flanges, the tension will mostly release when you undoing the bolts. Car wheel is the same - when the bolt is hard, try next one and so on (eventually they will all release).
@@GrandePunto8V i think u got it back asswards bud. if theres a tight bolt, removing the bolt right next to it will make it even tighter. its like the spokes on a bicycle wheel. you break one spoke, what do you think happens to the spokes right next to it? they end up with higher tension
As a mechanic at a blast furnace:
That's a cute cylinder :)
Love the vids btw.
I love this content, so interesting and cool.
Attualmente i love this video much more than the simple press videos, i think you have found the way to revive the channel!
It's not the bolts that need heat; they'll just expand and get tighter. If you can't heat the whole flange, a better idea it to heat the bolts and cool very quickly. The shock can loosen them and the heat can burn off any locking agent.
Another thing is, once you have removed a bolt, clean it and grease it and put it back. Keeping the flange evenly tightened can reduce the pressure on un-loosened bolts. Once they're all loose, undo evenly and remove.
Good advise, same deal when withdrawing the cylinder rod as it didn’t seem on the same plane as the head contraption.
I doubt you've been taking any stuck bolts out. I know in theory you should heat the exterior threads, but in reality just heating the bolt will do, after it heats up just wait for the temperature to settle a bit.
That's getting boring! Another batch of lames. Everything wrong.
Heating up the bolt will elongate it, releasing the tension (that's how a bolt works, holds things).
The goal here was NOT to upset the piston, housing, flange, whatever, by heating up "everything" and pound with sledge hammer like a monkey. Bolts are cheaper to replace.
That insanely tight person got really happy with the impact gun. I work with cars trucks all day sometimes people put bolts on so tight I have to change the part. Like a simple oil drain bolt people use a 1500FPT impact gun. Its takes longer for a simple oil change. But awesome video guy satisfying watching you get all the bolts out
It's best to actuate the impacts in short bursts. Impacts offer the most breaking torque in the first 3 seconds. Continual driving after that has a significant drop off of breakaway torque.
That is due to the pressure drop in the line, if you have big lines that is not much of an issue. I have a 15mm hose and a 1" ring pipe and the bigger couplers in my shop, if you have a such a stuck bolts you can just hold on to it and stip threads if needed. If I put the wimpy 8mm spiral hose in between that drop of is very noticeable and you just see movement in the beginning like you described.
@@martin09091989 While the available air pressure is one of the factors causing break away torque drop. This issue is still the case even for electric impacts like the monster Milwaukee they tried to use. There is a lot of information on how impacts behave on the Torque Test Channel if anyone is comparing or thinking of buying an impact.
@@martin09091989 You can add small reservoir at the end of the long extension hose, it will help a lot.
More of this, please! I used to work for a farm mechanic, and have fond memories, and stuff like this is very nice to watch!
I appreciate this because there's a lot of good information on some things like dealing with stuck parts, it's nice to see that it came about without having to cut or burn the bolts out.
That bit when the music started 🤘. That was badass!
I do work like this all the time and appreciate you guy’s! your fun to watch not a lot of guy’s interested in this type of work hopefully videos like yours will inspire the younger crowd …
Yeah, they "inspire" army of retards who comment on how the video technique was "wrong". The "lames and squares" give "advice" to Pros - to just heat up the whole thing and cool the bolt and BS like that...
While heating the bolt elongated it and released most tension (video is 100% correct and practical).
Using the impact gun and a pipe wrench at the same time was a good idea, maximum torque!
You both hanging on that pipe reminded me of that time when I was trying to bar over a locomotive diesel engine that hadn't ran for maybe 40 years, and that after a diesel soak for 3 weeks.
I was literally deadlifting on that bar which was about the same length as yours and just managed to bend the pipe which was 60mm dia. and 5mm wall thickness, that engine didn't move at all.
Later we disassembled it one piston at a time with a lot of effort.
Yes, I once tried with a 1600cc car engine that had sat for a while. Pistons were well stuck in the bores. There was absolutely no way it was going to turn over. So after taking it apart and lifting the crankshaft out, the pistons drove out individually with a hammer and wood block relatively easily.
I'll be honest with you - I've already seen dozens of explosion videos, and while they are always very interesting, this video is not just an everyday stuff and I'd like to see more of it :)
Very interesting. My son and I have had stubborn bolts but not to this degree. There is a lot of useful information here.
Torque pretension plus impact works in most cases wonders. Even without a impact gun. If a Bolt is hard to loosen, give it as much pretension as you can give it and then hit the wrench with a hammer in the same direction. Has worked every time so far.
HEAT.
BEAT.
REPEAT.
Works everytime.
So many years of excellent service the cylinder has given. I would like to see the rebuilding of the cylinder 5 million but if you don't have time, I understand.
I like the broom catching on fire! Things like that always give a good laugh out of nowhere :D
Timo was a bit careless with that flame.
I had a stuck bolt on my MTB that required the same techniques. Hammering the casing helped the most, also ice cooling of the bolt. It ended up take three days to remove
It’s nice to see the learning curve in practice. And one thing is to take it apart, and another to put it back together…
Man loved this, would love to see some summary of the work done and the reassembly.
The work pays off! Pls do more of these exotic Videos because they are somewhat relaxing and have a really good contrast to your usual content. And dont even try to be better then CCE Australia.
Nothing "exotic" about it. This is how industrial stuff looks like. Most of the time (50% man-hours) you clean something and fight stuck bolts like that (20-30% time). Actual job (repair, replace, adjustment) is the remaining time (percentage) left.
ild recemend with something this tight and this many bolts, get them all started a half turn first. maybe even 1/4 turn, then start fully removing, the clamping force of all that redistributes as they are removed and if they were tough from the start the last ones will be even tougher since that force is only on a few by the end, by your last on is kinda prys and twists on the bolt in terms of forces applied to the bolt potentially making it harder to break loose
also when using the pipe to pry it hammer the end of the pipe near the bolt to give that impact effect with that super pry
Great workshop video! Fight with the stubborn bolts is always epic!
Love this video.
Old bolt adage;
if it doesn't go in, take it out.
if it doesn't come out put it in.
So the heat expands the bolt which we hope breaks it loose from the threads allowing it to be withdrawn. The best way to utilize this is to let the bolt cool once heated.
When the bolt was installed to torque the threads were stretched in a clockwise trailing direction. If there was loctite or never-seize on the bolt this helped by allowing the torque to be equalized across the entire thread face which then locked it into a continuous anti rotational barb once it reached torque.
So conclusion would be that heat first, cooling second, and then some more forward torque should help to break it free allowing it to be withdrawn.
I'm not saying it would've for certain, but i'm just saying that i didn't see it tried.
The only other thing that may have helped is to skip around from bolt to equalize the pressure on the flange. Sometimes when you take a couple bolts out it makes the adjacent bolt tighter.
Mostly what I saw was some hard working guys in a shop using everything at their disposal like shops everywhere just getting it done. I would watch more videos like this!
Stop giving advice to the Pros. They know all tricks.
As for "taking adjacent bolts making things tighter" - often it's the opposite! If you can't remove a particular bolt, just keep removing other ones and eventually all will be easier to undo. Especially covers/flanges behave like that.
@@GrandePunto8V Lol, blazen.
I was only giving reminders from one old pro to other old pros on the things that i did not see them try. Heavy shit is a whole different world, we're not messing around with cars here.
If the bolts weren't torqued in sequence when it was last assembled its more likely to release uneven stress when it's disassembled.
cheers.
Would definitely enjoy seeing the reassembly of this thing! Well done to you all and glad no one died taking it apart! 💪👍
I feel like I should start recording what I do at work I would have in my opinion 6 much more stuck nuts. Like it's 2.5in threads, it required a 1in breaker bar, witg a 15ft cheater bar, heat and a fork lift ramming the end twice to break each nut enough to then use our 1in impact to remove. It's for a large gearbox had those 6 bolts around the output shaft both ends. Then 12 more like 1 1/4 bolts for the next 3 shafts. Every hit with the fork lift required us to pick the box up with the crane and reset up for the next heat and beat. Again this gearbox weighed maybe 8-10ish tons. We'd rotate it like 35 degrees each hit.
I'll also add im aware they are trying to not blow it up, so no pressure vessels for what I'm stating. but after you have heat the bolt up, any loctite or non oxide thing holding you up, if you have a way to chill what your trying to remove. Do that, then start heating up the opposite side of the frame 9r whatever and with a temp gun watch the heat creep up. A soft flame. Don't get red hot or blue. When you start to see like 120 degrees starting to creep like 4 er 5 inches from what you think is the deepest part of the bolt hole. Start to attempt to remove as the heat sinks in you have a window where the frame hasn't transfered to the bolt and Is larger. So if it's like a rust crystal it will give enough room to break them up when you drive the bolt. Be sure to to retighten if you keep getting snags to move and break particles in tge threads. Again not useful for pressure vessels.
PB rust buster. The best rust penetrant ever made. Used it my entire career. It and some heat will break any fastener loose.
I am from Milwaukee, great to see home town represented. And seriously love the channel. By the way, yours must be the most Finnish accent I've even heard. 😮 I'm impressed. All good things.
I once had the same problem trying to open a jar of pickles. I used the same equipment that you guys did and finally got it open.
nice to see the rose bud coming out! most underrated shop tool
Man, you really needed every trick in the book for this one! LOL
Am I the only one who appreciate how clean the sump-oil was? - freaking crystal clear
Great work. Electric tools still seem pretty crap compared to pneumatic tools when you get to really serious torque levels
I'm team electric but couldn't agree more pneumatic or petrol is way better for serious torque
Nice! I actually like seeing your work more than the press stuff.
Great video. Thank you. Fully aligned with enjoying the summer while it's with us. Plenty of time for work when the rain comes.
In USA we call it a “cheater bar” when you use a pipe like that. I broke a big wrench doing that once. It was supercool because i weigh 60 kg only. I felt like superman ( but it was a cheap Chinese wrench).
i love your videos
Frank
(Virginia)
I really enjoyed this video. I know that you use your press for more than just smashing things. Myself, I like to see the things that the machine is made for.
I fully expected you to use the hydraulic press at some point in that process, especially when that massive bar came out! Good that you got the job done without resorting to that though.
Your workshop videos are my favourite!
I loved this video! Don't be afraid to do more of these sort of behind-the-scenes of behind the Press of in the shop ugh the Press Channel. These are good
This workshop stuff is quite interesting,, and this is a hydraulic ram so very apt!
As i work in a similar field i really enjoyed watching this video, thank you.
Super interesting. Thank you for taking the time and effort to film your process. What kind of machine does such a colossal cylinder go into?
I don't know where that one came from, but they use ones this size for hydraulically operated bridges.
@@mfbfreak Makes sense. The ingenuity and effort he spent trying to get those bolts off would make me a desperate man if it was on me to do LOL
Nice, great to see also the "normal" work in your shop when you're not friction welding hammers or making tools for the press to squeeze playdough 😀
This cylinder seems to be a real sucker. Even better to see that you still conquered it.
Great job! I finally saw some advantage using allen screws over the hex head ones, with this i mean you were able to provide torque from the gun and the pipe wrench at the same time, i'm not a fan at all of allen screws, i only use them if they have to fit in some cavity/hole, or some other reason that forces me to use them.
They're better in my experience for things that need to be opened and closed because you're far less likely to strip them than using hex heads. I might be slightly biased because I get them for free and during the course of my many restoration projects I've had to deal with so many rounded off hex head bolts I'm sick of them. Having said that you can't cut a notch in them and use that with a flat blade to remove a stripped bolt as easily as you can with a hex head. Torx bolts are even better but you really need decent quality bits to use on both allen and torx fasteners Once you get down to m5 or lower. Also they are good for confined spaces and if you're really lazy you can just cut old allen keys to use as driver bits in a chucked drill
I`m impressed by the fact you didn`t strip any of the heads considering the torque you gave them.
That was quite satisfying, especially that ridiculously long lever :D