For the past 55 years or more I've always used manual focus for my serious work for my clients. I use AF for family and just shooting around. I just have do much more control of what I need/want to be in focus....or not in focus. Not every image must be tack sharp, but we all know that.
If you are shooting from a tripod, it's easy to move the focus frame to the desired area using the joystick or 4 arrows rather than turning the camera and then re-composing. When using manual focus and peaking, if I need to be more accurate, I position the focus frame on the desired area, then hit the back focus button.
Just blows my mind all of the little things you don't think of on a daily basis. I always think about back button focus, but kind of jump back and forth on whether I like to use it or not. Maybe its time to give it another go. :P
BBF is definitely a huge help. Once I learned about it I never went back to half press on my X-T3. Question: Many landscape photographers, including you and Thomas Heaton, often say something you did here. "Focus about 1/3 of the way in...." Do you literally find something about 1/3 of the way up in the EVF/LCD and focus on that? I've been doing that as well ever since I heard it in a video and just never asked anyone about it. It's so much easier than trying to calculate hyperfocal distance or some other mathematical method. :-) Have a great weekend!!
Hi Ian, I'm thinking about buying a camera that is as compact as possible to carry with the bike. I think the Fuji XT5 is one of the best options. I mainly want it to photograph landscapes. What set of 2 objectives do you recommend? Nice videos!
Hola Jaume! I have been doing the same since I switched to Fuji during lockdown. I actually use my 23mm & 56mm primes the most on my X-Pro2 & XT4, which includes seascapes of the Severn estuary here in Wales. The 56 is great for picking out nice combinations of light on sky, clouds and water, while the 23 is good for wider shots with dramatic skies and foreground rocks or beach. I have other lenses (wider & zoom), but they are the ones I use most. Oh, and get a basket for the front of your bike - my camera bag fits in there nicely and is always easy to reach, plus it makes your bike terminally uncool to teenagers so it won't get stolen when you leave it places! Seriously!!! ; )
If your camera has a Focus Hold button, implementing BBF is practically a downgrade. There are considerable disadvantages. First, you loose a programmable custom button that could be used for something else. The selection of the button to be used for BBF is further narrowed down because you have to be able to reach it comfortably with your thumb as you press the shutter with your finger. This is needed in a snapshot situation. Second, you have added an extra step to taking a picture and in doing so, have slowed yourself down in all unpremeditated snapshot situations. Third, if you choose BBF you have stick with it for the rest of your life. You obviously need to stick to one of two habits - BBF or normal, i.e. coupled to the shutter button. Fourth, it is a myth that without BBF you have to half-press the shutter. Actually you can simply press the shutter fully down straight away. The only prerequisite is that you have activated AF, center area, and face priority. At the press of the button the camera does all its automatic stuff "as fast as it can" and then takes the shot. The internal delay could be the range of 20 ms. I would never propagate BBF as a solution for non-specialized photography. In the situations where BBF can be useful either MF or low aperture and high DOF are reasonable solutions and do not entail drastically changing the main user interface to your camera. Needles to say, I have tried it.
I am enjoying your videos. I have been using back button for a good few years now and love it
For the past 55 years or more I've always used manual focus for my serious work for my clients. I use AF for family and just shooting around. I just have do much more control of what I need/want to be in focus....or not in focus. Not every image must be tack sharp, but we all know that.
Your sun set was framed beautifully, with the warmth of the golden colours of the sun shining through superb 👍
If you are shooting from a tripod, it's easy to move the focus frame to the desired area using the joystick or 4 arrows rather than turning the camera and then re-composing. When using manual focus and peaking, if I need to be more accurate, I position the focus frame on the desired area, then hit the back focus button.
Lovin that first shot, foreground pebbles were popping, lovely stuff Ian
Thanks fella 👍
Lovely shots Ian.
Nice! It’s good how you used the driftwood for a leading line to the curved coast.
Thank you 👍
Coming up to 5 yrs in January since taking up photography, luckily i came across a video about bbf about 2 months in and have never looked back
awesome 👍
Thanks for the great information in this video…and thanks for taking me along!
You are very welcome, thanks for watching. 👍
I will use manual focus next trip out, and remember to zoom in for confirmation, great video and beautiful images.
Cool, thanks 😊👍
Just blows my mind all of the little things you don't think of on a daily basis. I always think about back button focus, but kind of jump back and forth on whether I like to use it or not. Maybe its time to give it another go. :P
Awesome, yes definitely give it another go 👍
BBF is definitely a huge help. Once I learned about it I never went back to half press on my X-T3. Question: Many landscape photographers, including you and Thomas Heaton, often say something you did here. "Focus about 1/3 of the way in...." Do you literally find something about 1/3 of the way up in the EVF/LCD and focus on that? I've been doing that as well ever since I heard it in a video and just never asked anyone about it. It's so much easier than trying to calculate hyperfocal distance or some other mathematical method. :-) Have a great weekend!!
I just guess where a third is, take a test shot and review my depth of field and adjust from there. 👍
Another really engaging and informative video, Ian. Thanks
Thanks for watching 👍
I’m sold on making the switch.👍🏻
Awesome 👍
Very nice video 😊
Gave me a lot to think about next shoot thanks bro
Thank you 👍👍
Thanks for walking us through your process. One question: what is the head on your tripod? It looks much more functional than mine.
Thanks, You can view all of my gear here 👉 www.iworthphotos.com/my-gear
Lovely images
Thanks
Another good one! 👍
Thank you 👍👍
Great video Ian. I've just started using bbf, a bit awkward at first but what a difference it makes. Will stick with it from now on.
yeah, it takes a while to get used to it, but it definitely pays off
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching! 👍
Thanks. Great video 👍🙂
Thank you 👍👍
Thanks!
Welcome!
Hi Ian, unrelated to the photos, do you get up early and drive to your locations or do you have a van and camp?
Mostly I get up early and drive, but i would like to get a van in the future to make things a little easier 👍👍
Hi Ian, I'm thinking about buying a camera that is as compact as possible to carry with the bike. I think the Fuji XT5 is one of the best options. I mainly want it to photograph landscapes. What set of 2 objectives do you recommend? Nice videos!
Hola Jaume! I have been doing the same since I switched to Fuji during lockdown. I actually use my 23mm & 56mm primes the most on my X-Pro2 & XT4, which includes seascapes of the Severn estuary here in Wales. The 56 is great for picking out nice combinations of light on sky, clouds and water, while the 23 is good for wider shots with dramatic skies and foreground rocks or beach. I have other lenses (wider & zoom), but they are the ones I use most. Oh, and get a basket for the front of your bike - my camera bag fits in there nicely and is always easy to reach, plus it makes your bike terminally uncool to teenagers so it won't get stolen when you leave it places! Seriously!!! ; )
If your camera has a Focus Hold button, implementing BBF is practically a downgrade. There are considerable disadvantages.
First, you loose a programmable custom button that could be used for something else. The selection of the button to be used for BBF is further narrowed down because you have to be able to reach it comfortably with your thumb as you press the shutter with your finger. This is needed in a snapshot situation.
Second, you have added an extra step to taking a picture and in doing so, have slowed yourself down in all unpremeditated snapshot situations.
Third, if you choose BBF you have stick with it for the rest of your life. You obviously need to stick to one of two habits - BBF or normal, i.e. coupled to the shutter button.
Fourth, it is a myth that without BBF you have to half-press the shutter. Actually you can simply press the shutter fully down straight away. The only prerequisite is that you have activated AF, center area, and face priority. At the press of the button the camera does all its automatic stuff "as fast as it can" and then takes the shot. The internal delay could be the range of 20 ms.
I would never propagate BBF as a solution for non-specialized photography. In the situations where BBF can be useful either MF or low aperture and high DOF are reasonable solutions and do not entail drastically changing the main user interface to your camera.
Needles to say, I have tried it.
Great video, its a sub from me
Awesome, thank you!
Not every image has to be sharp!