I bet that some or much of that problem with you not getting a good feel on the bike is soft fork springs. My 2019 MX model had soft springs for a 180 or heaver guy. So the front end rides low, reducing the trail of the front wheel, (rake and trail, very important). That makes the front end feel skittery. So with springs that are too soft, then you set the rear sag for the proper 4" (approx), the front end becomes even worse. I was a bit over 200 when I bought my bike, and no doubt, even before I set the rear sag, the bike felt "un-ride-able". It is all in the bike set up. I also find the front end more stable, especially going into corners, by going back to the late 80's/early 90's handlebar set up. (bars back more, and levers down more, so fingers to high elbows are straight). I could not get used to the "modern" high handlebar set up that I am sure came from freestyle. Also, with the forward bars, the rider position (for pro MX/SX), has moved forward a bit, and that teases front end trail. That is why they use more rear end sag, (105mm or more), to offset the forward riding stile. Thank goodness the bike geometry has not really changed much since about 1982, so we can set our bikes up either way. But I know now, I can out corner any stock height YZ250 out there. Stupid tall bike, especially for the woods. Just say something. :)
I did the 13 ounce on mine and there were 3 issues. 1. the ignition cover rubs on the fww unless you add a few extra gaskets, not a big deal. 2. you must bend the clutch actuator because it interferes with the fww which then causes your clutch cable to break prematurely from rubbing at an awkward angle, medium deal. My fww side crankshaft bearing went bad, possibly due to the extra weight on the crank end. I loved the way it rode with it, harder to stall without sacrificing the quick throttle response. Just get the 11 oz..
@@sean.g4516 9oz is what people usually run, unless they’re looking to do some hard enduro, super slow, technical stuff & want to completely mellow out the bike, they might use the heavier option. (11-14oz I think). It’s adding weight to the flywheel. It doesn’t give it power, just changes the power characteristics.. so you’re adding weight to the crank, which means when the bike should “bog” down, it doesn’t bog as much and has more low end grunt, because the weight on the crank gives it momentum and helps it keep spinning, at lower rpm. Hopefully that makes sense. You’re just adding a big weight to make it harder to slow down the crank. Like when you grab traction, or something. So it will seem to have more low end power, but it won’t rev as fast or as high theoretically, because the added weight the engine has to get going.
@@goinhot9133 ok sounds like I need the 9oz. I jst do normal trail/woods riding, dirt roads and hay fields. So Is This something that might help with learning wheelies an going over logs?
I worry about that with my 250sx woods bike. I run the red power valve spring and don’t wanna give up my ripper, but I’d like some lugging abilities for hard enduro stuff
@@TaxationIsTheft439 I don't know about today, (been off a bike for a while), but in Michigan, it was pretty easy to make a MX bike street legal. Hand signals needed no blinkers. For the horn a little squeeze ball horn many mounted on the bars. I am not sure about the lights, but I remember street legal kits sold for about $300.00.
Funny how those same engineers already made their own flywheel weight that you can buy and put on the bike. Perhaps it’s because different riders have different needs for their bike which are impossible to accommodate from factory alone.
I know your point. It is usually a bad idea to think the factory engineers don't know what they are doing. But this is a new progressive dysfunctional generation today. I have a modern 2019 YZ250 that I have never had to do so much work on a new bike to make it a really good bike, (better than the X for the woods now). Too tall--lowered it 1.75" total, seat 1" and suspension .75", (just physics man, the tallest bike needs the berm), Jetting is terrible,and the engine, top rpm power to keep up with a 450 4-stroke on the fast MX tracks today, (not happening), pretty much stinks for any other kind of racing/riding. So I got more low end power from it, (port 2-stroke engines for a living). Maybe I should have suspected this, when I saw the kids who design the plastic must have graduated from the "Batman school of art". Yea,---I fixed that too. Abstract art (that means nothing), does not belong on my functional dirt bike. :) Doug in Michigan
Usually, only people who have never used it before make these kinds of comments. I know a lot of people like that, and what they say most often is, 'Don’t modify it, the stock setup is always the best.' Guess what? The so-called stock setup is just a configuration that, in your words, 'the engineers think might work for you.'
Good little review 👍
People said, heavier flywheel is good for enduro while lighter one is for motocross
I bet that some or much of that problem with you not getting a good feel on the bike is soft fork springs. My 2019 MX model had soft springs for a 180 or heaver guy. So the front end rides low, reducing the trail of the front wheel, (rake and trail, very important). That makes the front end feel skittery. So with springs that are too soft, then you set the rear sag for the proper 4" (approx), the front end becomes even worse. I was a bit over 200 when I bought my bike, and no doubt, even before I set the rear sag, the bike felt "un-ride-able".
It is all in the bike set up. I also find the front end more stable, especially going into corners, by going back to the late 80's/early 90's handlebar set up. (bars back more, and levers down more, so fingers to high elbows are straight). I could not get used to the "modern" high handlebar set up that I am sure came from freestyle. Also, with the forward bars, the rider position (for pro MX/SX), has moved forward a bit, and that teases front end trail. That is why they use more rear end sag, (105mm or more), to offset the forward riding stile.
Thank goodness the bike geometry has not really changed much since about 1982, so we can set our bikes up either way. But I know now, I can out corner any stock height YZ250 out there. Stupid tall bike, especially for the woods. Just say something. :)
I did the 13 ounce on mine and there were 3 issues. 1. the ignition cover rubs on the fww unless you add a few extra gaskets, not a big deal. 2. you must bend the clutch actuator because it interferes with the fww which then causes your clutch cable to break prematurely from rubbing at an awkward angle, medium deal. My fww side crankshaft bearing went bad, possibly due to the extra weight on the crank end. I loved the way it rode with it, harder to stall without sacrificing the quick throttle response. Just get the 11 oz..
I’d do a 9oz
@@goinhot9133what does the different sizes do? What will I need for a 2001 yz250
@@sean.g4516 9oz is what people usually run, unless they’re looking to do some hard enduro, super slow, technical stuff & want to completely mellow out the bike, they might use the heavier option. (11-14oz I think).
It’s adding weight to the flywheel. It doesn’t give it power, just changes the power characteristics.. so you’re adding weight to the crank, which means when the bike should “bog” down, it doesn’t bog as much and has more low end grunt, because the weight on the crank gives it momentum and helps it keep spinning, at lower rpm.
Hopefully that makes sense. You’re just adding a big weight to make it harder to slow down the crank. Like when you grab traction, or something. So it will seem to have more low end power, but it won’t rev as fast or as high theoretically, because the added weight the engine has to get going.
@@sean.g4516 I’d get the lighter one for your bike if you do harescrambles… if you want your 2T to be a tractor, get the heavier weight..
@@goinhot9133 ok sounds like I need the 9oz. I jst do normal trail/woods riding, dirt roads and hay fields. So Is This something that might help with learning wheelies an going over logs?
I'm really happy with my 9oz, doesn't tame it too much
I worry about that with my 250sx woods bike. I run the red power valve spring and don’t wanna give up my ripper, but I’d like some lugging abilities for hard enduro stuff
@@goinhot9133what's bad about the weights? Im trying to see what's best for my 01 yz250
I'm curious if the 250x can power a headlight so it can be made street legal.
I seen some dude use a power drill battery so i guess you could use just about anything 😂
You also need turn signals, horn etc
@@TaxationIsTheft439 Thats easy. My state you can make ORVs legal.
@@TaxationIsTheft439 I don't know about today, (been off a bike for a while), but in Michigan, it was pretty easy to make a MX bike street legal. Hand signals needed no blinkers. For the horn a little squeeze ball horn many mounted on the bars. I am not sure about the lights, but I remember street legal kits sold for about $300.00.
How do you like that clutch ?
The Magura hydraulic clutch is nice! It’s definitely not a must-have addition to the bike but I really like it!
@@ian.thompson I think imma get one . I kinda like being able to feel the clutch though if that makes since
Too quiet. Can't hear you
You should only get a flywheel weight if you are smarter than 100's of japanese engineers who studied this bike for decades.
Ahhhhh Sooooo ; Ahhhhh Merry Kan's Berry Smaht !!! 😊
Funny how those same engineers already made their own flywheel weight that you can buy and put on the bike. Perhaps it’s because different riders have different needs for their bike which are impossible to accommodate from factory alone.
I know your point. It is usually a bad idea to think the factory engineers don't know what they are doing. But this is a new progressive dysfunctional generation today. I have a modern 2019 YZ250 that I have never had to do so much work on a new bike to make it a really good bike, (better than the X for the woods now). Too tall--lowered it 1.75" total, seat 1" and suspension .75", (just physics man, the tallest bike needs the berm), Jetting is terrible,and the engine, top rpm power to keep up with a 450 4-stroke on the fast MX tracks today, (not happening), pretty much stinks for any other kind of racing/riding. So I got more low end power from it, (port 2-stroke engines for a living). Maybe I should have suspected this, when I saw the kids who design the plastic must have graduated from the "Batman school of art". Yea,---I fixed that too. Abstract art (that means nothing), does not belong on my functional dirt bike. :)
Doug in Michigan
Usually, only people who have never used it before make these kinds of comments. I know a lot of people like that, and what they say most often is, 'Don’t modify it, the stock setup is always the best.' Guess what? The so-called stock setup is just a configuration that, in your words, 'the engineers think might work for you.'
The Japanese engineers designed a motocross race bike. If you want to ride in the woods, you have different goals than the engineering team did.